Solo Travellers
‘Women are the guardians of our culture’: why Kihnu is Estonia’s island of true equality | Estonia holidays

“Welcome to Kihnu. We are not a matriarchy,” says Mare Mätas as she meets me off the ferry. I’ve stepped on to the wild and windswept Kihnu island, which floats in the Gulf of Riga off Estonia’s western coast like a castaway from another time. Just four miles (7km) long and two miles wide, this Baltic outpost is a world unto itself that has long been shielded from the full impact of modernity, a place where motorbikes share the road with horse-drawn carts, and women in bright striped skirts still sing ancient sea songs. But Kihnu is no museum – it’s a living, breathing culture all of its own, proudly cared for by its 700 or so residents.
Mare, a traditional culture specialist and local guide, promptly ushers me into the open back of her truck and takes me on a whistlestop tour of the island, giving me a history quiz as we stop at the museum, the lighthouse, the cemetery and the school.
The men of Kihnu would once have spent many months away at sea, sailing or hunting seals. Out of necessity, the women of the island became the heads of the family as well as the keepers of the island’s cultural heritage. This led to Kihnu being nicknamed “the island of women”, and the BBC even proclaimed it “Europe’s last surviving matriarchy”. But Mare is very clear: “If you must use a word, you could say that our culture is matrifocal. But I prefer to say that on Kihnu we are simply equal. Women have status in the community, and older women have a higher status – they are seen as wise elders. Women work as the guardians of our culture, and we look after the circle of life on the island – we have the children, we tend the land, we care for the dead.”
The women of Kihnu have been lighthouse keepers, tractor drivers and even stand-in priests. Today, they play ancient melodies on violin and accordion, teach their daughters traditional dances and sing Kihnu’s eerily beautiful runic songs, believed to be of pre-Christian origin. Most eyecatchingly, they wear traditional dress – bright red woollen skirts, embroidered blouses and patterned headscarves. These aren’t just garments donned for weddings or festivals – this is the only place in Estonia where folk dress is still donned daily.
Mare is wearing a red striped kört skirt and woollen jacket. Her daughters, in their teens and 20s, pair their traditional skirts with slogan T-shirts. The skirts are woven every winter and each tells the story of the wearer. Young women usually wear red – they are supposedly in the “fairytale” era of their lives. If a woman is in mourning, she will don a black skirt. Over the months, her skirts will include more red and purple stripes until she’s dressed in joyful red again. A married woman wears an apron over her skirt, and new fashions and patterns still influence designs today. “When paisley was brought to the island from India, we began using it for our headscarves,” explains Mare. “And in the 1960s, when miniskirts were the rage, we wore mini körts!”
I spot women of all ages dressed in bright flashes of red as I cycle about the island’s dirt roads on a sit-up-and-beg-bike. Kihnu is a patchwork of wildflower meadows and pine groves, edged by rocky coastline and dotted with wooden homes painted in primary yellows and reds. Outside one homestead I meet Jaak Visnap. An artist from Tallinn, he has run naive art camps here every summer for 20 years. Historically, many of the island’s sailors were also naive painters (artists who typically have no formal training and exhibit a simplicity in their work), and when I meet Jaak, he and a group of painting students from Kihnu and the mainland are busy working on richly coloured paintings for an exhibition in the island’s museum.
Estonians often label themselves as cold and standoffish, but the painters welcome me warmly and offer me wine. The sun comes out and transforms the island – moody grey skies swept away by golden light – so I join them for a swim in the warm, shallow sea. As we bob on our backs in the evening glow, Viola from Tallinn tells me a joke: “It’s raining, and a foreigner asks an Estonian man: ‘Don’t you have summer in this country?’ ‘Of course,’ he replies. ‘But sadly I was at work that day.’”
Before I leave the painters, I ask Jaak how the island has changed since his first summer here. “This used to be the fishing island,” he says. “Now, it’s the tourist island.” But visitors don’t seem to have transformed Kihnu just yet. Locals may drive modern cars and trucks, but I also pass Soviet-era motorbikes with side cars. There are a few shops and cafes, but they sell smoked dried fish and seal meat as well as coffee and cakes.
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Outside her craft shop, I meet Elly Karjam, who knits the traditional troi sweaters worn by Kihnu’s men, beautifully patterned in blue and white wool woven into protective symbols. “I can knit hundreds of jumpers every winter, and each takes me 200 hours,” she says, her fingers clicking in a blur as she works on a new masterpiece for the local priest.
Mare tells me that the island only wants to attract tourists interested in culture and craftsmanship, and that the islanders are musing over whether campervans should be banned. But tourism also allows the next generation to remain on the island, rather than leave for the mainland in search of work. And for now, most visitors seem to embrace slow travel, staying with local people in guest houses and B&Bs, and visiting to join midsummer dances and violin festivals, to learn to paint or knit, or just to find pastoral peace.
The “island of women” is a misnomer. Instead, Kihnu feels like an old-fashioned yet balanced place that moves to the beat of its own drum (or perhaps, the hum of its own accordion). In winter, cloaked in snow, it must be a tough place to live. But in summer, this slow-paced island is a joy to explore. As I leave, the rain that makes it so lush and green returns. The ferry has barely left the harbour before Kihnu is swallowed in the grey sea, a place of legend once again.
Kihnu is reached by a one-hour ferry crossing (foot passengers €4 one way, cars €16 one way) from Munalaid harbour, which is an hour’s bus journey from the coastal town of Pärnu. See visitkihnu.ee. Mare Mätas offers guided tours of Kihnu as well as guesthouse accommodation on her farm, about £40 a person a night, kihnumare.ee. Elly Karjam offers comfy bedrooms and a traditional sauna on her homestead, where she also sells her knitting and homemade crafts, visitestonia.com/en/elly-bed-breakfast-in-kihnu. Pitch a tent at Kihnu Vald campsite, kihnurand.ee
Solo Travellers
Global solo traveler embraces unique lifestyle from Sioux Falls

Not that long ago, Taylor Hanson literally stood at the end of the world.
“The tip (of South America) right next to the Antarctica,” she said. “The weather reminded me of South Dakota, with the fall weather and pretty colors and cold temperatures.”
She walked the Pan-American Highway, which is the world’s longest highway starting in Alaska and ending in Ushuaia in Argentina.
Her time in Patagonia, a region shared by Argentina and Chile, was part of a two-month trip that saw her visit eight countries in eight weeks, walk 50 miles in five days through the Andean mountains to the Amazon jungle, then uphill 800 steps to the top of Machu Pichu.
Hiking Mount Fitz in Patagonia
“I woke up at 3:30 a.m., so it was rough, but I got to the top, and when the clouds cleared, I instantly started having tears in my eyes because it was an experience,” she said.
Machu Pichu
Call it one of many. In the past 12 years, Hanson, who is 33, has amassed more travel memories than most do in a lifetime — many of them traveling by herself.
Her first solo trip was at age 21, inspired by a family name she discovered in her grandmother’s address book.
She learned the relatives lived in Norway and decided to travel to meet them, “and now they’re like close family with me,” she said.
She returned last year to celebrate May 17, a national holiday similar to the Fourth of July in the U.S., signifying the signing of the Norwegian Constitution.
“I think it speaks a lot for females to do solo traveling,” Hanson said. “My generation is like, do we want to buy a house, have kids, get married? I’m kind of in a place where people my age are doing that, and I’m like, where am I going to go this weekend?”
The Perito Moreno Glacier near El Calafate, Argentina, in the Patagonia region.
Solo travel has become a major industry trend, with 76 percent of millennials and Gen Z planning solo trips last year, versus 69 percent of all respondents, according to the American Express 2024 Global Travel Trends Report. Of those people, 60 percent planned two or more trips.
Young travelers appreciate that they’re easy to plan and often choose a quick weekend getaway, with almost 30 percent saying they’d prefer solo travel to a new city, the report said.
“For deep relaxation, developing a new interest or meeting new people, solo trips can be hard to beat,” the report said.
The trend is especially pronounced among women. A 2024 report from global travel network Virtuoso found females make up 71 percent of solo travelers.
Salkantay Trek, Peru
Sioux Falls has taken notice. Experience Sioux Falls, the community’s tourism organization, recently published a piece on guiding solo travelers to destinations in the city.
“We know it certainly exists. Even just walking around, they’re out exploring Falls Park or SculptureWalk or walking into a coffee shop or restaurant,” said Matt Barthel, communications manager. “On a national level, it’s definitely more of a trending topic, especially with the younger generations. I think people are starting to realize they don’t necessarily need friends or family to go enjoy travel, enjoy different parts in the world. People are more willing to step out of their comfort zone and go explore.”
Sioux Falls benefits from being a safe, walkable downtown where people can drop their bags and easily walk to parks or get on the recreation trail, he said.
“We know people are looking for unique experiences, so we’re trying to reach a broad audience to say whether you’re into hiking at Good Earth or catching at concert at Levitt at the Falls, there’s definitely something for everyone,” Barthel said. “Plus, it’s a smaller city, so you can get your feet wet (with solo travel) and find out if you want to do this for more than a day or two.”
In Hanson’s case, it has become a lifestyle.
She works full time at Gateway Bar & Grill and has for the past 11 years. Beginning in the next few weeks, she will start to work 40 to 50 hours weekly as football and basketball seasons bring increased demand.
She often works open to close, serving and bartending.
And she saves. She skips the coffees out and impulse purchases in favor of thrifting. She saves on housing costs by continuing to live with her parents, “which is something I’m extra grateful for the extra time I get to spend with them,” she said.
“It not a tough subject. People kind of look down on it, but I think it’s becoming more popular nowadays because the money you’d spend on paying a mortgage or rent, that’s what you spend on travel.”
When she travels, it’s on a budget too.
“I stay in hostels, where they can be $10 a night,” she said. “Hotels are more expensive, but the bunk bed life helps save a lot of money on those trips.”
Not all her travel is solo. Two years ago, she and a close friend spent six months traveling in Southeast Asia.
“She lives the same lifestyle as me,” Hanson said. “We’re both in the (service) industry, and we both have great support from our family and friends. She’s now married and met her now husband on our trip to Asia.”
Laos
That trip saw them mark the milestone of turning 30 with an adventure that took them to Thailand, India, Nepal, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, Indonesia, Japan and South Korea.
Thailand
Wonder how to pack for something like that?
“Remember less is more,” Hanson said. “Find a ‘staple style’ where you can mix and match outfits. My backpack weighed 30 pounds for my two-month trip to South America, so I had to strategically pack for their cold and warm weather.”
She tends to bring lightweight sandals and one pair of walking or hiking shoes. Packing cubes help her backpack stay organized — she allows herself one cube for tops and one for bottoms.
“I bring laundry strips to wash my clothes while traveling, but there are laundry services where you can pay $1 to $3 for them to wash, dry and fold your clothes,” she said.
It helps to be an adventurous eater too.
Hanson’s travels have led her to taste everything from guinea pig in Ecuador to alpaca in Argentina and dried insects at food markets in Thailand.
Guinea pig in Ecuador
She visits a McDonald’s in each country to try their different meals — “my comfort food when I miss home.”
Often, fellow travelers tell her she’s the first South Dakotan they’ve met.
“My goal is to show the world ‘Midwest Nice,’” she added.
“The roads and traffic can be wild in other countries, so it makes me appreciate the smooth roads and easy traffic when I am back home in Sioux Falls. It’s the little things.”
At the end of each backpacking trip, she gets a small tattoo before heading home.
“It’s a fun souvenir and a way to represent my adventure,” Hanson said. “Speaking of souvenirs, I bring home a lot of unique knickknacks.”
Here are a few more tips:
- Always bring a journal to document your journey. “I think it will be fun to reread my journals someday and remember how cool I was when I was young,” Hanson said.
- Share your location with family and friends so they can follow the trip but also in case of an emergency. Air Tags come in handy to ensure you keep track of your items.
- Keep a folder on your phone with a scan of your passport, bank numbers and any other important information.
- Bring a tablet for streaming and reading, with a universal adapter plug for all electronics.
Lately, Hanson has been doing one trip each year, usually in the spring.
“I’m very type A. I like to have everything planned and organized,” Hanson said.
“But I also love room for other things to pop up. I probably spent over 100 hours planning the trip (to South America), and I was going by weather because I was going into their fall and winter and had to go places before it started to snow and get really cold.”
Next year, she plans to return to visit family in Norway and travel through Europe with others she has met solo traveling.
And when she’s back in South Dakota, you’ll often find Hanson across the state exploring the Black Hills, where she’s gotten into crewing for a hot air balloon business.
She’ll also visit family in Minnesota, but other than that, she’s saving domestic travel for the days when “I’m older and can rent an RV and drive,” she said. “The older you get, you don’t want to be on a plane 12 hours. It’s easier at this age to go on a flight and go hike five days.”
In the meantime, “I want to get to 35 countries before I turn 35,” she said.
It’s going to happen: She’s already at 28.
“I hope more people are inspired to follow their dreams and explore,” Hanson said. “Life’s too short. Just live your life.”
Solo Travellers
This Stranger Things Airbnb Will Transport You to the Upside Down—Snag a Stay Before It Books Up!

Stranger Things, the beloved Netflix show that first aired in the summer of 2016, is finally coming to a close this year. And if you’re looking to make the most of the fifth and final season, we’re here to introduce you to a way to do so that you won’t soon forget: staying in a replica of the Byers’ house.
Just 20 minutes from the Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, this three-bedroom is a gateway to another world—but luckily, this world and the way to reach it are far nicer than the actual Upside Down. Complete with authentic 80s decor, games, and entertainment (peep the VHS tapes in the living room), it’s a fantastic recreation of the beloved Byers family home seen in seasons 1-3 of the hit show—Christmas light alphabet and all. Fans, welcome to Hawkins, Indiana. (Or Fayetteville, Georgia, if you want to get technical about it.)
You may end up looking around for Eleven, Hopper, Will, Joyce, and the rest of the gang when you enter this period-appropriate listing, which was designed and crafted by fans in order to honor the show. It features plenty of Easter eggs and details that fans will recognize—from the trinkets on display to the 1950s-era lampshade.
The three bedrooms sleep up to six people, with a king bed in Jonathan’s room, a queen bed in Will’s room, and two sets of bunk beds in the Upside Down room. (It is a Building and Safety mandate to only allow two people per bedroom, FYI.) Decor stays on-theme (and on-character), with vinyl records and Amiga 500 games in Jonathan’s room, and plenty of art in Will’s room, including a drawing of Will’s Dungeons and Dragons character, Will the Wise. Step into the Upside Down room to play a round of D&D yourself, surrounded by creeping black tendrils in the corners and on the wall connecting you back to the Mind Flayer. In the common areas, find VHS tapes, retro furniture, and even more decor that calls back to the show.
Luckily, we aren’t actually in the 80s, so you can still appreciate all the modern conveniences of the 21st century, like strong AC; a modern stove, dishwasher, and washer/dryer; and a 75” Samsung Frame TV with streaming services, so you can watch your favorite Stranger Things episodes, of course.
Much of the Stranger Things franchise was filmed in the area, meaning you have the opportunity to totally immerse yourself in the world of the series during your stay. If you’re up for a drive, head to Jacksonville, home of downtown Hawkins, where you can spot locations like the Hawk Theater (Bradley’s Olde Tavern in real life), and the nearby alley where Jonathan and Steve fought. You can also sip drinks from Lucy Lu’s Coffee Café, which has been known to feature Stranger Things–themed specialties in the past, like the Demogorgon Latte, or the Sheriff Hopper, flavored with hazelnut and vanilla.
The listing says it best: “This isn’t just a place to stay—it’s a one-of-a-kind destination to make unforgettable memories in a setting that blurs the line between fiction and reality.” Book your stay now to get the unbelievable chance to watch the final season of the hit show from the house that started it all.
More rentals based on TV shows and movies:
Spend the night in Bella Swan’s house from Twilight, located in St. Helens, Oregon. It’s about 230 miles south of Forks, Washington, and 30 miles north of Portland, Oregon, making it a great stopping point on a Twilight-themed road trip up the Pacific Coast. With five bedrooms, a good-sized kitchen—where you can dine at the same table used in the film by Bella’s dad, Charlie—and plenty of space for up to eight guests, this is a spot any Twilight fan will want to stay in.
While the White Lotus craze may be on pause until the next season is released sometime in the distant future, you can still stay at one of the luxury properties that was actually featured on Season 3 of the show, like this Thai villa that is bookable on Airbnb. Each of the seven bedrooms has a king-size bed (sleeping up to 14 adults) as well as an en suite bathroom (five of which have private hot tubs). You’ll find rain showers, oversized bathtubs, and plush linens in the beautiful rooms, plus retro arcade games and a kids pool fit for the whole family.
Solo Travellers
A Guide to the Columbia River Gorge, the Pacific Northwest’s Best Kept Secret

Thanks to an increasing desire to travel to the less-visited, more quiet landscapes here in the US, in-the-know travelers have been buzzing about the Pacific Northwest’s Columbia River Gorge—and it’s easy to see why. Splitting Washington and Oregon in two, this National Scenic Area stretches for over 80 miles while the river winds westward through the Cascade Range, creating a dreamy borderline area between these two states. It’s a rare collision of natural drama and small-town ease, where canyons are carved from Ice Age floods, fast-moving rivers are perfect for paddling and rafting, and rolling hills are lined with vineyards, lavender farms, and forested trails. Protected for its ecological and visual beauty, the Gorge has become a low-key luxury escape for insiders, where days are spent chasing waterfalls and sipping cool-climate Chardonnay, and nights end in treehouse cabins, riverside hot tubs, or under canvas gazing at stars.
With new design-forward stays opening on both sides of the river, plus better public transportation options becoming available from nearby Portland, it’s no wonder the region is expected to draw more visitors in the coming year. But beyond the jaw-dropping landscapes, there’s a real sense of place—one that thrives thanks to local businesses and grassroots organizations. From the independent shops in White Salmon, Washington, to the family-run adventure groups in Hood River, Oregon, this region relies on curious travelers doing their best to preserve the local charm. Continued exploring here means supporting the mom-and-pop operations that define the soul of the Gorge—so keep the small vibrancy of these communities in mind when you go (and hence, resist the creeping tide of chain stores and big brands that could change its heart).
That said, whether you’re here for wildflower hikes, wine weekends, or to slow down in a fertile, scenic corner of the Pacific Northwest—you’ll find yourself surrounded by what makes the Gorge unforgettable: big views, fresh air, and a sense that you’ve stumbled into something both grounded and extraordinary. Read on for all there is to know about traveling to this underrated pocket of this region—and why it’s calling visitors, now.
Jump to:
FAQ:
When is the best time to visit the Columbia River Gorge?
The Gorge is stunning year-round, but late spring (April to June) and early fall (September to October) are ideal for mild weather, lighter crowds, and vibrant blooms or fall foliage, respectively. Summer offers sunshine and full access to trails and vineyards, but can get hot and busy, especially on weekends. Winter brings dramatic frozen waterfalls and solitude—best for seasoned hikers or cozy cabin stays. Choose your timing based on whether you’re chasing wildflowers, wine tastings, waterfall hikes, or winter quiet.
How do I get to the Columbia River Gorge?
Most visitors start in Portland—just 45 to 90 minutes away by car, depending on your destination. Take I-84 for the Oregon side or scenic Highway 14 for the Washington side. Car-free options (while not recommended, given the spread-out nature of the region) include the Columbia Gorge Express bus and guided shuttles from Portland for hiking or wine tours. While you’ll experience much less than with a car, local buses and bike-friendly transit make quick exploring without a car doable, especially in peak seasons (and when staying at a hotel with convenient programming).
Where should I stay in the Columbia River Gorge?
If you’re focused on wine tasting and waterfalls, stay in Hood River at a central downtown Airbnb. For trail access and small-town vibes, White Salmon offers walkable inns, spacious group rentals, and peaceful cabins in nearby Husum Valley. Nature lovers should opt for elevated cabin or glamping experiences (like Under Canvas or Skamania Lodge)—both offer immersive stays near trails, ziplines, and the forest. For ultimate privacy, romantic retreats like Tenzen Springs or riverside cottages in Stevenson, Washington, give you hot tubs, soaking pools, and views worth lingering over.
What should my itinerary include?
Start with waterfalls—Multnomah, Wahclella, and Panther Creek are must-sees. Add in a bike ride with Bike the Gorge (e-bikes make it easy), then spend an afternoon wine tasting at Syncline or South Hill Vineyards. Reserve time for Hood River’s breweries or a sunset picnic on the Washington side with views of Mount Hood. Round it out with quirky shops and bakeries in White Salmon, or a white-water rafting trip with Wet Planet if you’re feeling adventurous.
Where to eat
In an area as wide and wild as the Columbia River Gorge, dining options can be spread out—so it’s worth plotting your meals with intention. For the most vibrant pockets of food culture, aim for White Salmon on the Washington side, or Hood River across the bridge in Oregon. These two small towns pack a punch when it comes to local flavor, with everything from high-end tasting menus to artisan pastries and nostalgic roadside bites.
In White Salmon, start your day at White Salmon Baking Co., a warm, well-loved, and wood-firing bakery known for its heirloom grain pastries, rich seasonal galettes, and rustic loaves. Locals queue up for the croissants and polenta cake, and the shaded patio offers views of Mount Hood. Just down the street, Feast Market and Delicatessen is your go-to for trail snacks and gourmet provisions—think cured meats, cheeses, and handmade sandwiches that travel well. Over in Hood River, Common House serves as a stylish hybrid: wine bar, bottle shop, and pop-up kitchen space with events like Detroit-style pizza nights and visiting chefs. For a more elevated evening, Votum brings a touch of fine dining to this otherwise laid-back town, with a hyperlocal tasting menu from a team with Michelin credentials.
And if you’re headed in or out via Portland, don’t miss a stop at Sugarpine Drive-In in Troutdale, perched beside the Sandy River. It’s a modern take on the classic roadside diner—soft serve, smashburgers, and seasonal specials served under string lights and towering evergreens.
Where to stay
In Hood River, the Columbia Gorge Hotel and Spa is a polished classic, complete with grand river views, curated packages, and a full-service spa set within historic grounds. A short walk away from the hotel, a standout downtown Airbnb—set in a converted railroad building with two bedrooms—offers soaring ceilings, vinyl records, and rooftop views of the river and passing trains. Across the river in Washington, The Inn at White Salmon places you right in the heart of a vibrant little town, with cafés, wine bars, and trailheads all minutes away. Larger groups can check into The NeuHaus, a midcentury-style home with panoramic views of Mount Hood and the Gorge, or a rustic Airbnb cabin tucked above a ranch in the Husum Valley (elk and turkey sightings are likely).
The newly opened Under Canvas Columbia River Gorge delivers a dreamy stay in luxe safari tents with West Elm furnishings and front-row views of Mount Hood—all wrapped in wilderness. Just down the road, Skamania Lodge in Stevenson is a full-scale resort with lodge rooms, villas, glamping, and treehouses, plus on-site ziplining, golf, and forest trails. Also in Stevenson, Wilder and Pine Riverside Cottages offer riverfront cabins with woodsy flair and on-site soaking pools, while Tenzen Springs is a dreamy six-cabin hideaway with Scandinavian-interiors and Japanese-exteriors, private geothermal tubs, and bluff-top views of Wind Mountain and the Silver Star Scenic Area. For something more bucket-list worthy and offbeat, book this A-frame Airbnb in Yacolt, Washington. Tucked in trees along the Lewis River with a private hot tub and swimming beach, it’s the ultimate treehouse escape.
Where to play
Adventure here runs on fresh air, rushing water, and sweeping scenic beauty. I discovered Bike the Gorge while I was staying at Under Canvas myself—they offer e-bike rentals (as well as cruisers, trikes, and kids’ gear) so you can follow car-free waterfall trails along the Historic Columbia River Highway. My partner and I trailed the lush and winding trails together with Bluetooth helmets, which let us talk as we rode—it was oddly romantic, and a low-effort way to stay connected.
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