Solo Travellers
Where the wild things are: how to immerse your kids in the great outdoors this summer | Family holidays
‘Aliens!” The call came loud and shrill from the trees as I scanned the foliage for the unmistakable shape of my four-year-old son. For a moment, nothing stirred. The beams of light from the sun spotlit a nearby clump of bracken so intensely it reminded me of the torches Mulder and Scully used in The X Files.
Then, a rustle came from up ahead. “Quick! I found them,” he yelled before disappearing into a clearing between the pines. I walked on, to find, in front of us, the curved edges and spherical lines of a UFO, coloured so dark it nearly blended into the shadows. It was, of course, a metal sculpture representing the alien vessel said to have landed here over 40 years ago. On top of it stood my son.
Even before I managed to take a decent picture, he wanted to run on again. “We’ve got to find number four now,” he declared.
We were in Suffolk’s Rendlesham Forest, a 15-mile drive from Ipswich, walking a free UFO trail, based on the sighting of unexplained flying objects by US military officers based here in 1980. Loving to follow a trail of any kind over several hours – but especially one where he can tick off numbers, so he knows there is an end (handily, this one culminates in a playground) – he walked, ran and skipped the three miles, while I enjoyed spending time outside with him.
When it comes to the summer holidays, it can feel as if we are doing a countdown. Of the 13 weeks most children get off school each year, six are lumped together over the summer, making July and August feel like a stretch of endless time. Not only can it be a nightmare, due to the juggle of childcare and work, but keeping kids entertained and – crucially – active rather than sat in front of screens can be expensive. So many activities cost a fortune. But there is another way. And it is completely free. And that is the outdoors.
The UFO-themed walk was on Forestry England land, which is one of the first places to turn during the holidays. From interactive app-based trails that allow you to take videos of your child pretending to be a dragon complete with AI wings, to crafting missions where you work together to find natural items on the woodland floor to make the face of the Gruffalo, they are an inexpensive way to immerse yourself in nature.
On the UFO trail, a free leaflet at the start guided us around the trees where I could tell the story of the key sites. My son was so enamoured of the map and tale that the next morning at breakfast he asked me to read it again while he followed the map with his finger and remembered our adventure.
But an outdoor adventure doesn’t have to be deep in the forest, where maps are required. The next day, we headed to Thorpeness, home to the much-photographed House in the Clouds, a former water tower that was disguised as a red and black clapboard house in 1923. Our mission was to find a way to get a good photograph of it. We followed a footpath up a hill, past quirkily painted weatherboarded houses which were popular after the first world war. While I was in awe of the house we had come to see, my little one found it way more exciting to discover the windmill opposite (bought by the creator of the House in the Clouds to help pump the water).
Adjacent to Thorpeness is the town of Aldeburgh, where we spent hours on the shingle beach filling buckets with “magic stones”, chasing the waves, paddling in the North Sea and taking shelter under Maggi Hambling’s giant scallop shell sculpture when rain fell. The day was rounded off with a hearty helping of fish and chips from Aldeburgh Fish and Chips, owned by the same family since 1967. Weeks on, my son still talks about this day as one of the best in his life.
Beaches are always a winner when trying to convince kids that nature is cool. On a previous trip, I took my boy to New Quay in Ceredigion, west Wales (one of a few places that lay claim to being the inspiration for the characters and town in Dylan Thomas’s Under Milk Wood). We didn’t set foot indoors for an entire day. When the tide was out, we set up a beach “base camp” with some shade under a giant parasol, then proceeded to bury each other in the sand. Then we looked for jellyfish washed up on the shore (a great opportunity to teach him about them), went rock pooling in the shallows (we found crabs, limpets, anemones and periwinkles) and built an elaborate fortified river, hewn from the silt using our buckets and spades.
As the temperature rose, we swam in the sea and, just before the end of the day, we were treated to a spectacle of the resident bottlenose dolphins putting on an impromptu performance at dusk. None of this cost a penny. Yet we’d shared some of the best quality time I’ve experienced – bonding over the natural world, revelling in getting sand between our toes, and shivering in the cool waters of the Irish Sea.
For something that feels like a bigger trip to my son, I try to involve a train. A couple of summers ago, we took the fast train to Scotland, then caught the ferry to the Isle of Mull as foot passengers. There, I hired an e-bike with a child seat and trailer, and we stopped off to wild camp near a loch. He helped me put up the tent, I cooked our dinner on a stove and we bonded over a shared love of marshmallows.
We stayed up watching the sunset, despite it being way past his bedtime. “I love the sun so much,” he told me as we saw the sky turn purple. “I don’t want to go to sleep.” He did, thankfully, nod off under a sky full of stars, with not a mention of Bluey, Peppa Pig or any of the other characters he usually demands entertain him. On one of the last days, we woke before dawn. I packed a chocolate croissant in my bag and we climbed the nearest hill to watch the sun rise. He still talks about it and asks when we will do it again.
One of my most memorable trips with him was paddleboarding on the river near our house. I packed a picnic and we paddled to an island, where we sat and watched the birds, while he asked what each one was called and demanded we collect some of their lost feathers to take home, in the hope we might one day be able to make a cape that allowed us to fly back here.
Memories like this are priceless. I know, given his age, he probably won’t remember everything we do, but I hope going into the wild places will instil in him a knowledge that the natural world is a wondrous place and the backdrop to some of our happiest times together. For me, it helps to remember that when it comes to the holidays, instead of counting the days, I need instead to make the days count.
Phoebe Smith is the author of Wayfarer and the 2025 recipient of the Royal Geographical Society’s Ness award for promotion of accessible adventure, particularly to women and those from underprivileged communities
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Solo Travellers
At 34, I’ve Traveled to 90 Countries Instead of Marrying, Having Kids
Growing up, I was always enamored with geography, so it’s no surprise that I developed a passion for solo traveling.
In my 20s, I assumed I would solo travel for a few years to “get it out of my system” before settling down. Instead, my destination bucket list grew while my desire for things that felt like societal norms at my age — kids and marriage, for example — dwindled.
By 30, it dawned on me that both of those things are choices, not requirements. While some women successfully balance it all, I’m not personally willing to swap spontaneous trips for dirty diapers.
My solo ventures have led me to experiences like road-tripping in Madagascar and seeing all 20 regions in Italy. Recently, they led me to my 90th country, Mauritius, where I snorkeled with colorful fish and ate street dholl puri.
What Mauritius really provided, though, was a moment to reflect on all that comes with solo traveling as a single, childless 34-year-old woman.
The judgmental comments are relentless, but I don’t let them deter me
Kaitlyn Rosati
I’ve built a business around solo traveling through my Instagram and blog, so I am no stranger to unsolicited comments.
My earliest trips were funded through my work as a bartender, and I quickly became skilled at traveling comfortably on my budget. I finessed systems like SkyScanner’s “Everywhere” search feature to find inexpensive flights, and I slept in affordable hostels.
Still, everyone from strangers online to coworkers in real life constantly insinuated that a man was paying for my trips — or my parents were.
I was taken aback by how frequently people asked how I could afford to travel, when I would never dare ask how someone could afford to raise a child.
I received other nosy questions, too. Whenever I dated someone, people asked if my partner was mad that I traveled alone, or said it was nice that he “let” me go on trips without him.
It made me wonder how often solo-traveling men are told it’s nice their partner “lets” them travel.
Naysayers aside, solo traveling has led me to a community of like-minded people
Kaitlyn Rosati
In my experience, it’s much easier to meet people when you’re traveling alone since you’re not stuck in your own group.
Solo traveling has led me to plenty of friends that I’ve met naturally in hostels, bars, and even on airplanes, and through my online community via social media.
Although solo travel — like babies and marriage — isn’t for everyone, I have found my footing in this world because of it. For me, it’s empowering to be in an unknown part of the world with nothing but myself to rely on.
Even as a seasoned traveler, I still learn something new on every trip, whether I’m dismantling negative stereotypes about places I’d been taught were unsafe or reminding myself I don’t need to wait for a partner to enjoy typical honeymoon destinations.
Solo travel has fed my curiosity, opened my mind, and given me the gift of enjoying my own company.
I wish that my life, passions, and career were celebrated in the way that marriage and kids are
Kaitlyn Rosati
If you had asked me when I was a kid where I saw myself in my 30s, “solo traveling the world” would not have been on my radar.
I assumed my life would consist of a stable career and a house in the suburbs with my husband and kids. However, looking back, I don’t know that I ever actually wanted kids — rather, it was something that was simply expected of me.
Now, I know that I don’t have the desire to have children, although I’m still open to marriage or a long-term partnership with the right person one day.
I recognize that for many, having a family is a dream come true. My dream life, however, is the one I’m living right now.
Perhaps that’s why it’s disheartening that my accolades, like visiting 90 countries alone, will never be celebrated by society the same way having a baby or a ring on my finger will.
Knowing this, I threw myself an “Antarctica send-off” party the night before leaving for my final continent — because, if nothing else, solo travel has taught me to be my biggest supporter and my own best friend.
Solo Travellers
The Only Way to Group Travel Is Solo
Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photo: Getty Images
When Tiffany Lumpkin got divorced after just two weeks of marriage in 2022, her immediate reaction was to book a flight to Cape Town. Lumpkin and her now-ex-husband had been in a relationship for eight years, during which time they often talked about going to South Africa. But the trip never materialized. The split made Lumpkin realize she couldn’t keep putting off her dream vacation. “It was one of those euphoric moments where I was like, I don’t have to wait on a spouse. I don’t have to wait on a friend.”
Once the 36-year-old landed in Cape Town, however, fear and anxiety hit. She’d barely gone to the movies alone before, never mind travel solo. “As the plane was landing and I saw the mountains and ocean, I was looking at the motherland like, What have you done? This plane lands and you have to get off,” she says. “I was terrified.” Still, she felt like she owed it to herself to see the trip through. Before leaving home, her mom had told her to look into group trips for safety reasons. Now she scoured social media in a panic for companies offering tours and signed up for as many as possible.
Rhino Africa, the company she had scheduled an excursion with, helped point her to some local guides. Over the next three weeks, Lumpkin tried new dishes, tasted wine, explored museums, and went on safari with total strangers. “I felt like a local,” she says. While she got to have alone time when she wanted it, she says her time in South Africa “just wouldn’t have been the same without the group.”
Lumpkin has since been on at least ten solo trips around the U.S. and abroad, including to France, Mexico, and Thailand, that she’s filled with group trips and excursions. While women make up more than 70 percent of solo travelers, according to the luxury travel advisory Virtuoso, many of them are looking to find connection and friendship while they’re exploring. There are cruise, adventure, and safari companies offering group travel specifically for women all over the globe; depending on the destination, the length of the trip, and the level of luxury, these trips can range from several hundred to several thousand dollars. Intrepid Travel reported that its all-female tours, which are led by locals, grew by 37 percent globally in 2024; an eight-day trip to Morocco with the company starts at about $1,200. An 11-day tour of Portugal with Insight Vacations, which began offering group packages for women in 2024 after seeing a surge in demand from female travelers, starts at around $4,800.
Anuja Bagri, a 25-year-old management consultant in Chicago, took a break from her corporate job last year to travel. Her friends and family didn’t have the flexibility to join up with her at any point, so she looked into group tours. She did a women’s retreat in Kerala, India, before visiting her grandmother in Bangalore. She then spent some alone time in Bali followed by group sailing in Australia’s Whitsundays. “You’re still stepping out of your comfort zone, but you don’t have to do any of the planning and someone is guiding you every day,” she says. “So you can just really be in the moment and the experience.”
Group tours also appeal to those who don’t want to deal with the drama that planning a vacation with friends and family can bring — or worse, get into a fight with people they love once they get to their destination. When Bisola Tijani, a Toronto-based content creator, went to Dubai with relatives in 2021, the trip got awkward after a flight carrying half the group was canceled. “We didn’t want to do the activities without our other family, and we weren’t even sure when they were arriving,” the 29-year-old says. It was difficult to reschedule nonrefundable activities and adjust the itinerary, which she says was “a mess for someone like me.”
Tijani is a self-described planner, that person in the friend group who’s always suggesting new destinations, booking restaurant reservations, and making sure everyone has paid their share. So she knows how heavy of a lift it can be to get everyone on the same page while traveling. “Some people just want to chill, but some people want adventure and to always be doing something, and some people are just there for the vibe,” she says. “Getting a trip out of the group chat can just be really hard.” She created her own travel company, Sabi Enjoy, in 2024. While the tours are open to all travelers, she says her clients have overwhelmingly been women — and most of them tell her that they booked because they couldn’t align on a trip with their friends.
Gabrielle Ybarzabal found herself struggling last year to recruit a group to travel around New Year’s Eve. The 26-year-old wanted to get out of Austin and ring in 2025 on a beach in a country she hadn’t visited before. She liked the idea of being one of the first people in the world to celebrate, so she decided on Thailand. “I asked friends if they were able to go with me, but no one really wanted to commit to it,” she says. “So I said, OK, this is the trip I’m doing by myself.” She booked with EF Ultimate Break (Ybarzabal noted she used a travel credit for this trip, without which the same package, including flights, some excursions, and meals, would have cost about $5,000) and was soon added to a group chat for the tour. She was nervous about heading to a new country alone but hopeful that she would click with the other travelers.
“By the time I got there, we’d been following each other on Instagram,” she says. “That broke the ice.” While the 25-person tour group was co-ed, Ybarzabal says most were solo women travelers like herself. The company paired guests of the same gender for their hotel accommodations, unless they requested to share. The group explored Chiang Mai, Ao Phang Nga National Park, and Bangkok together. On New Year’s Eve, they made krathongs, floating floral lanterns that symbolize letting go of negativity. That night, at a beach party in Phuket, they went out on the water in kayaks to release the krathongs. Despite being away from her friends, Ybarzabal didn’t feel lonely, and she got the exact holiday she’d envisioned.
For her part, Lumpkin says that whenever she shares the story of recovering from her divorce while traveling with strangers, people always want to hear more. She’s now planning to lead her own retreat for women going through similar hard times in 2026, likely in Bali or Costa Rica. “Life is so much more special when you can do it with someone else,” she says. “We so often think it has to be a romantic partner, but it doesn’t.” And who knows? Maybe your future maid of honor is a stranger you’ll meet on a group tour.
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