Day 105- 15 Miles today from Mizpah Hut Campsite to Osgood Campsite, 4600 Feet Up, 6000 Feet down, 1874 AT Mile Marker

The AMC

The AMC controls all of the huts, shelters and campsites in the Whites. Known as the Appalachian Mountain Club it’s often referred to as the Appalachian Money Club or Always Making Cash.

I have no problem paying a few dollars for the services of the caretakers at the shelters and campsites. They do a great job maintaining the facilities and packing in a lot of us hikers.

I also have no problem with the rich people paying $175 a night to stay in the huts. I am glad they are out here enjoying the wilderness. Their enjoyment will only support our continued enjoyment of these public resources.

I do have a big problem with the fact that there are no resources for us thru hikers to camp midway through the Presidentials. I have looked at this section many times with fear. When you leave the Mizpah campsite there are no other resources to camp reliably until the Osgood campsite on the back end of the Presidentials.

Tad told me that it may be the Federal Agencies controlling the land. I’m suspicious that it is the fact that us thru hikers don’t spend a lot of money. Especially when you see all the people who do spend lots of money here in the middle of the wilderness.

What really upset me was the fact that I have walked almost 1,900 miles, been given great support from communities all along this far but now I’m treated like a third class citizen. A campsite for us thru hikers is needed somewhere between Mizpah and Osgood.

Weather Surprise

I checked the weather when I had cell phone reception yesterday. It looked like a possibility of a little bit of rain in the morning. But then today was supposed to be a nice sunny day. Cell phone reception yesterday at Crawfords Notch was non-existent. I did not get a chance to check the weather before I headed into the Presidentials.

I knew it was going to be a little bit of rain in the morning so I took off after visiting with Knockerz.

I was super conscientious about carrying excess weight so I did not carry my merino wool sweater. I really wish I had now. I held it held it in my hands, knew it had a little bit of weight to it, and decided I needed to go as light as possible on all these climbs and left it behind. Yesterday it rained all day. Now my hiking clothes are wet.

Cold Wet Hiking Clothes

I went to bed early yesterday around 4:00. The weather was cold but not bitter cold. I have been carrying my merino wool tights, puffy, and my 15 degree sleeping bag this whole time in anticipation of being up here in the Whites.

All of these items will be remaining in my trash compactor bag and must stay dry. As long as I can get someplace dry then get inside of these items I will be okay. That was definitely the situation last night.

Unfortunately I will have to put on my wet hiking clothes from yesterday so I know it will be very cold this morning when I start off. That will give me extra motivation to hike.

I woke up about 1:30 am and grabbed my wet tights and my wet hiking shirt and wrapped them around my chest in the hope to get them a little bit dry but at the very least warm them before I had to put them on.

This morning they are not ice cold but they are wet and cold. I have wet and cold socks, shorts, buff, and my shoes are wet.

A Thru Hiker Shelter or Campsite is Needed AMC

I’m praying that the weather forecast hasn’t changed dramatically since yesterday. I have no cell phone reception.

I have three options now option number one I can try to get into Madison Hut (but that only happens at 4:00 p.m. and only two people are giving work for stay options). Option number two I can climb through the unmarked boulder fields a thousand feet down off the AT into one to the Randolf shelters that’s outside of the alpine zone. Or option three I can go down to Osgood which will be a very long day.

It’s 4:30 in the morning and I’m going to pack up. By the time I get packed up it will be light out. I am hoping when I open the tent up I will look up and see a sky of stars meaning it is clear weather.

Mountain Man

I hit the trail at 5:30 in the morning. I’m not exactly sure what the weather is going to be like but based on yesterday’s forecast it’s supposed to be partly clear. I don’t have anything warm to wear while I’m hiking so I’m hoping it stays warm. Right now it’s not bad maybe 50 degrees. It is wet from yesterday and all the trees I brush up against douse me with even more water.

As I’m climbing around Mount Eisenhower I came up on a startled older man. He had apparently slept directly on the trail taking some spruce limbs and laying them down as a pad. It didn’t look like he had a whole lot of gear. But yet he survived.

My first thought was that he was a day hiker. I looked down and saw a backpack with a very cheap looking bed roll. He looked cautiously at me thinking I might try to fine him for illegal camping. So I said hello and moved on.

A little while later it dawned on me what an idiot I was. I should have stopped and made sure he was okay. I should have asked him if he needed food or water. I will try my best not to miss that opportunity again.

A Sprint Across the Presidentials

As I’m approaching Franklin Mountain the clouds started to part a little bit. I was cold and wet and looking forward to some sun to warm me up.

I stopped at the Lake of the Clouds Hut and was able to get leftover eggs, coffee, and a gingerbread cake.

The old man that slept on the trail arrived also. I told him I was sorry I didn’t ask if he needed help and he absolved me of my guilt and said he was fine. His name is William.

Mount Washington!

I left the hut and made it up the 1.5 mile long boulder field to the top of Mount Washington. The summit was not yet crowded so I was able to walk right up to the sign and get my picture.

I went down to the lower basement of the snack bar and used the hot water to take a hiker trash bath of areas that haven’t been washed in a while in the bathroom sink.

I didn’t stay long at the summit because I still have a lot of hiking to do to get to Osgood. I did do the obligatory mooning of the tram as it passed full of tourists. I’m sure they were pleased that I took a hiker trash bath first!

Boulder Hopping Hell

The trail up here is nothing but boulders for miles. There are cairnes to mark the trail. A lot of the cairnes are topped with a white rock to symbolize the white blazes of the Appalachian Trail.

It was rocky and technical to Lake of the Clouds Hut. After that hut it was 1.5 miles of boulders and rocks to the summit of Mount Washington. After Mount Washington it was 6 miles of rocks and boulders to Madison Hut. It was hell hiking made even worse by the long miles I had to accomplish because of the lack of any campsites in this section of the AMC controlled Whites.

More Boulder Hell

It is really amazing up here above the tree line in the alpine zone. The mountains are so dramatic and the views are out of this world. However the rocks and boulders were hell.

It was a hell of a boulder field to get to the Madison Hut. It was getting late and I still had a lot of miles of boulder field to cross.

I looked up with dread because after the Madison Hut I had to climb Mount Madison at 1,000 ft per mile for a half a mile. I could see that climb from down here. I was already wiped out from all the boulder hiking I have had to push my way through to this point in the day.

Are These Boulder Fields Ever Going to End?

I then still had miles of boulder field to navigate down off Madison before being able to start dropping off out of the alpine zone. I had three more miles to go before I can set up my tent.

The exhausting climb of Mount Madison was sometimes rock climbing steep. After that the rocks were never ending. Every time I looked up I would see another cairn off the next rise. Then after crossing that next rise I would look out into another boulder field and see another rise with a cairn on top of it. This repeated so many times I feared it would never end. My feet, ankles, knees, and calves were killing me. I was exhausted.

I would have to climb over all different sizes of the rocks and boulders some sharp on my feet. Some of the rocks were loose and would move when you stepped on them.

I finally got out of the Alpine zone and reached tree line. Unfortunately I had 1,800 ft to drop in 1 mile before I could set up my tent. I was exhausted.

This website contains affiliate links, which means The Trek may receive a percentage of any product or service you purchase using the links in the articles or advertisements. The buyer pays the same price as they would otherwise, and your purchase helps to support The Trek’s ongoing goal to serve you quality backpacking advice and information. Thanks for your support!

To learn more, please visit the About This Site page.

Cars are tools, not jewels. Just ask my friend Brian and his Fiat 500. While I eye-rolled him for years from a place of Subaru superiority, Brian, with the help of his trusty mini-steed (adventure pony, perhaps?), logged more trail hours than our entire friend group combined. We all spent time on mods, maintenance, and the mechanic bills that went with them. Brian, however, tucked his ego away and found the whip that not only did the job but kept him out on the open road. Oh, and parking? Yeah, that guy zipped circles around us every day of the week.

When it came time to upgrade my wheels recently, I scanned forums and used car sites, hoping to find the next dream vehicle to support my outdoors lifestyle—while still holding onto my Seattle city existence. If the onslaught of recommendations and ranking was dizzying, the price tags were downright vertigo-inducing. Sick of it all, I remembered Brian. Maybe I’d been barking up the wrong tree entirely. Maybe I didn’t actually want a fancy adventuremobile. After all, a sedan could get me to the trailhead just fine.

There’s a lot to love about a mobile basecamp, but do I really need it? After years of being groomed to think that I had to wake up on a memory foam mattress in my vaulted ceiling Sprinter van, accompanied by a nice pour-over courtesy of my solar-powered built-in stovetop, I had to take a hard look at some facts. First off, I don’t even drink coffee. Second, I live 45 minutes from the trailhead—what am I doing exploring a second home (and mortgage) on wheels?

As a casual hiker, my car should be a means to a trail’s end; get me there and let my body do the rest. The thing isn’t bagging peaks, so why does it need all of the hypothetical gear to do so (rope, axe, first aid kit, shovel, etc.) strapped to its exterior while it sits in the parking lot? At this stage of my outdoors recreating, everything I need is in my pack. The rest is just an advertisement for a product I’m not equipped to sell.

The more I pull back the layers of my adventure rig conditioning, the more I realize how personal of a problem this has become—and how easy it is to solve. Find the right tool for the project. If it’s a four-wheel drive minivan for your ski adventures, great. If it’s a smart car with just enough room to strap down your canoe, hey, that’ll get it done. Nobody ever talks about the shiniest hammer, but they’ll always remember a job well done.