• Tom Floyd Wayside (969.5) to Mountain Home B & B (972.5)
• 500 feet ascent, 1430 feet descent 

The feeling of completing the Shennandoah settled in and our energy slowly washed out with the tide of excitement. We only had 3.4 miles to walk but that felt far. 

Sometimes completion leaves you with initial ebullience and then trips you like a rock. It is not dissimilar to being ravenous, and cramming in a sugary, salty, hyperpalatable meal. The olfactory and oral satisfaction are acute. Then the tummy rolls and the blood sugar drops. 

Hiking Like a Variable Spred Drill

Our speed and competence at hiking was all over the place today. Fast, slow and everything between. My fitness watch map was actually hilarious. 

I usually lead when we hike because I am a steady pacer. The Historian walks like he talks, have a thought and shoot ahead. Then, slow down to consider the next thought and once organized, zoom ahead. Multitasking-R-Not-Us. 

I am more like a metronome. I may slow down or speed up based on terrain, but the pace is usually like clockwork. Lord help me, I often count steps or sing music in my head to set a tempo. 

Not today. My pace was all over the place. I must say, The Historian was very tolerant of his hiking partner this morning. 

Dank Hiking

Virginia has a lot of swampy, dark areas that have a dank, dismal feeling. We experienced that in the lower areas of the middle of Virginia where the laurels and water were the primary features. The Dismal Falls area was prototypical. 

Today there were no laurel bushes to distract us. We started the day with a short rocky downhill but quickly transitioned onto swamp. It was black, marshy, and a little like a scary movie. 

Adding to the horror-movie vibe was an old, 7 foot tall chain link fence. It was in disrepair and in some places had openings in the links. 

We debated if the fence was to keep things in, or keep things out. I had the feeling I needed to keep an eye on everything in case some zombies or space aliens darted by. 

Mildly Aggressive Signage

Layering onto the geography and old chain link fence, were a signs warning hikers to stay on the trail. These began yesterday after leaving the Park. 

Realistically, we imagined there had been some some rude hiker use and maybe conflict between hikers and local land owners. In the context of our mood and the fence and geography, they felt like trailside trolls demanding a payment to cross the land. 

Long Down

After the murk and the zombie woods, we emerged at the edge of a field. The fence continued on the west side. The trail surface was dirt with a lot of clay in it. Overlying the narrow clay trail was tall wet grass. 

We were grateful it had not rained much recently. Had it been wet, we imagines slipping at the top if the fenceline and sliding a mile down the slippery, straight, downhill trail. 

On and on it went in its arrow straight pattern. Near the bottom, houses were visible on the non-fence side. There were fences and barriers that suggested the homeowners were not disposed to appreciate the hikers. 

We wondered aloud what type of rude hikers had triggered this need for such strong boundaries. It made us sad to contemplate. 

The Highway

We crossed Sloan creek with a nod to our resupply package maven whose name includes Sloan. 

After the creek, we emerged onto the busy highway, Virginia 522. To our right was a small trail parking lot. To the left, a bus stop post with the bys schedule to Front Royal. Even though we were not going to Frobt Royal today, it was cool to think we could ride the city bus from the trail to town. 

We waited for a lull on the traffic. Grasping our poles firmly, we scurried across the highway as fast as we could and still not trip over the yellow line. 

Once on the north side of the crossing, we breathed a sigh of relief. We were just .3 a mile from our goal, the Mountain Home B & B. 

The trail follows the highway for that 1/3 of a mile, but with a nice, thick strip of trees between the highway amd the trail. The zooming car sounds wete present, but the visual cues were peaceful trail. 

Mountain Home B & B

We reached Gate 7, as directed and rather than turning left to follow the trail north, stepped back toward the road and up a block to enter our hostel home for the next 24 hours. 

We felt welcomed before we even got to the building. There was a sign supporting the local library.

Once to the back patio, we were welcomed with a large glass of homemade lemonade with treats. The ice clicked in the glasses in an engaging way. 

Inside

When we got inside, we were instructed to place our dirty packs inside large contractor bags to transport them on to our room. It was a clever idea.

We were assigned the Game Room. It included an antique foosball table and stacks of vintage board games. We did not play the games, but it was a fun theme. 

Hanging Out

After a gratifying shower and finding loaner clothes, we spent the rest of the day hanging out with other hikers. The dining room was a hospitable place with two large dining tables. 

When dinnertime came, everyone wanted delivered food. It was hot and wet outside. No one delivered so the hosts kindly offered to shuttle some of us to town to fetch a large takeout order we had collectively placed. 

All of us enjoyed refullimg our tummies with Thai food.  We had also selected our food preferences for the included breakfast for tomorrow. One meal consumed and the next meal planned, we headed off to refuel our bodies with sleep and dream od eating again soon. 

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Day 13 – Wanda Lake to Tentsite on Piute Creek – 15.3 miles

Last night, during my bathroom break, the near full moon turned the baren landscape into a moon scape. It was both very beautiful and kind of erie. I did not carry my headlamp because it was so light out. Walking back I realized that many of the boulders looked just like our tent, especially in the moonlight. Fortunately I knew the tent was between me and the lake, so I just headed towards the lake and one of the boulders magically turned into our tent.

Discussing this with Meriwether today, we wondered if anyone ever crawled into the wrong tent. Some of the tentsites will accommodate a bunch of tents. There are at least four other tents just like ours very close to where we are set up tonight.

The hike today was 99.9 percent downhill. The uphill wasn’t even really uphill. I don’t think I have ever spent an entire day backpacking going downhill. The grade was very gentle, easy on the knees. We made really good time and took some great breaks.

My favorite break was at lunch, right after we crossed Evolution Creek. This is a big creek that can be dangerous to cross. There is an alternate trail that crosses the creek in a much easier place. We did NOT take the alternate. There is a very deep spot in the creek where the trail crosses. I found that to be a great place to cool off.

We only have a few miles to Muir Trail Ranch, our next resupply. They do not offer any other amenities to hikers, so we will probably grab our food, charge our phones, and keep moving. That is, unless the hot springs are very inviting or they offer us a discount on a hut for the night.

Happy Trails!

Day 14 – Tentsite on Piute Creek to Tentsite on Marie Lake – 11.6 miles

We got to see all our good trail friends today. Becca and Simone were at MTR when we arrived. They introduced us to their friend 2 Puffs before heading out. I imagine they will be about 3 or 4 hours ahead of us tonight. Peter and Laura showed up after we had sorted through our resupply. They either got enamored with the hot springs and stayed or are likely 2 hours behind us.

The roar of Piute Creek drowned out any noise from our neighbor campers and lulled me into a deep sleep. There would be no midnight bathroom break. I woke feeling great and ready to go.

The plan for today is to get to MTR for our resupply and decide whether to spend the night there or press on. MTR has cabins and tents that can be rented for $250 per person with a two night minimum. The price does include dinner and breakfast.

The sign on the store said “No Vacancy”, I guess we are moving on. Our resupply bucket was there and intact. We did a bit of trading and discarding, recharged our electronics, washed our hands with soap, weighed our packs, and set off. My pack weighed in at 31 pounds, 2 pounds heavier than Meriwether’s. Please note that I carry the tent and cook gear.

Plan 2 was to head to the lake just before Seldon Pass. On the way to the lake a swarm of flies converged on Meriwether. She wasn’t interested in stopping until the flies went away. So we hiked passed the lake and over Seldon Pass to Lake Marie. Except for the massive cloud just in the distance, this site is wonderful. There are mountains close and in the distance. The lake is rippling blue green and pretty warm.

We are in striking distance of VVR. If we get to the turn off in time to catch the ferry, there is a chance we will go to the resort. We are both very interested in a cold, fizzy drink. There are also showers, laundry, and a cafe at the resort. My shirt and pants are turning white from the salt stains.

Happy Trails!

Day 15 – Tentsite on Marie Lake to Tentsite on Mono Creek – 14.9 miles 122.5

The biggest mistake I have made on this trip is to pack the exact same meal for dinner. Yesterday I snagged some packaged sweet and spicy tuna from the hiker box at MTR. I ate it for lunch on a soft tortilla. It was so good. Last night for dinner, tonight for dinner, every night for dinner I have been eating ramen (the $1 package), spam, and peanut butter. It is one of my favorite backpacking meals. Well, it used to be. At most there will be 9 more dinners of it, but I have a plan to reduce that number.

We made it to the intersection with VVR in plenty of time to make the ferry. We decided, however, to press on. We should be able to get to Red’s Meadow in two days. Red’s is closer to the trail, we have a resupply bucket there, and it has pretty much the same amenities as VVR.

The hike today was almost all in the woods. Occasionally we would get a glimpse of the mountains. Mostly we got to see some majestic trees. I think they are Sequoias, but I am no tree expert.

We also had to content with swarms of mozzies. For a couple miles I thought there was a hummingbird on each shoulder. Every now and then I could feel their claws punch my skin. One of the pinches was particularly hard, I glanced over and realized it was a massive mozzies. I squashed it and coated my shirt with blood.

Tomorrow we tackle Silver Pass. It is just under 4 miles away and I am hoping it will be a cool, bug free, experience. We will try to set us up to get to Red’s early in the afternoon the next day. I am looking forward to something good to eat there!

Happy Trails!

Day 16 – Tentsite on Mono Creek to Duck Creek Tentsite – 14.7 miles

Leaving camp this morning we passed a number of hikers flying down the trail. They all had the same goal. Get to the VVR ferry before 9:45 AM. I doubt the last few we saw made it. I was a bit envious.

We made quick work of Silver Pass. It seems, as we travel north, that the passes get easier and the drop offs much less steep. Only one more, Donohue, probably in 3 days.

From Silver Pass we could see our friends, Becka and Simone and their friend 2 Puffs. We have only spent about 5 minutes with 2 Puffs, give us 10 more with her and she will be our friend too.

They were packing up and we caught up with them before they set out. We ended up talking for more than 10 minutes, so 2 Puffs is a friend now.

We hiked near them most of the morning. Their constant cheerful discussions made me smile. We stopped for a break and a snack at Virginia lake. The lake is beautiful, just like the State. I wanted to take a dip, but the wind was blowing and it was a bit chilly.

Meriwether and I set out before them. We had 4 miles to where we planned to camp and I wanted to get there in time to eat before the mozzies arrived. The mozzies really haven’t been that bad. There have been a few times when we decided to press on because they were annoying and once when they covered Meriwether’s backpack and my legs so thickly, it looked like fur. Right now I can count 35 on the bug net part of the tent. How do they know we are in here?

We are within striking distance of Red’s Meadow. It has been about 8 days since laundry, shower, and a good meal. We are hoping to be there by noon so we can get nice and cleaned up before a fabulous dinner.

Happy Trails!

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After taking a real beating from southern Maine, making it to Harrison’s Pierce Pond camp signified the start of the northern part of the state. This meant that the trail would now wind alongside beautiful lakes and valleys instead of going up and over steeper mountains. Harrison’s did not only signify the start of the final easy section of trail, but it was also the best breakfast that I had on the trail – 12 incredible berry pancakes. 

Making it to Shaw’s

After the great breakfast at Harrison’s, I only had a short jump to get to Shaw’s hostel in Monson, Maine. This hostel is a northbound hiker’s last stop before they enter the 100-mile wilderness – the longest stretch of uninterrupted woods (without a resupply option) on the AT. Shaw’s did not only provide resupply options, but also gave me a much-needed rest day before I took on the last section of the trail. 

As I hung out at the hostel, I got to catch up with many friends from the trail and get some much-needed rest. I loved how the trail has a way of grouping up hikers in significant spots, so I had some great company as I hung out at the hostel and as I started back on the trail. 

The 100-mile wilderness

This wilderness area was one of the remote areas and one of the most beautiful on the AT. The trail ran alongside tons of beautiful lakes and woods and provided incredible views throughout the last section. 

I was also blessed with great weather during this section. Usually, Maine is a state that is plagued with rain, but I was able to make it through the last section of the trail with only one day of rain (that only lasted through the morning). This section was also incredibly sentimental, because the trail was relatively easy, I was able to spend much of the time walking and reflecting on my journey. 

Katahdin Eve

The last day of hiking before summoning Katahdin to officially end the trail is sometimes referred to as Katahdin Eve. This day certainly felt like a Christmas Eve of sorts and I hiked with so much excitement and adrenaline throughout the day. The last 10 miles of trail that run through Baxter state park (prior to Katahdin) mosey along side a river to make for a final day of pleasant walking. Usually I hike quickly and in a motivated fashion, but on this day I took so many breaks to take in every bit of trail that I could. It was amazing to pass any other hikers throughout the day because the stoke was so high. Towards the end of hundred mile wilderness and through Baxter state park, so many hikers shared the joy in congratulating me on making it to the end of my hike. 

Once I arrived at the birches tent site I still had plenty of time left in the day to relax because my summit the following day. With all the extra time I decided to build a campfire to hang out around. And in an odd way this turned out incredibly sentimental – the first day on trail I met some awesome other hikers (and now friends) sitting around a campfire, so I found it only fitting to end the trail in the same way. 

My summit day

On the morning of my summit day, I woke up way earlier than usual to seize the day (and because I couldn’t sleep from excitement). As I sat and ate breakfast, all of the emotions finally hit me – it was so exciting to finally have completed the trail but also sad to leave such a fun chapter of my life. The nostalgia of the trail had already hit me and I wasn’t even done yet. 

Hiking up Katahdin was an incredible experience. The top half of the climb required some pretty intense climbing and bouldering moves that were so much fun. Also the difficult climbing, hikers and rewarded with the tablelands – a final flat section of the mountain above treeline with views up to the summit. At that point I finally got a glimpse of the legendary sign and the race was on. 

As the sign got closer and closer the excitement only grew – I was actually done with the trail. Getting up to the top to stand on top of the sign to take a picture completed the whole process. I had beautiful weather for my summit day so I was able to sit and share stories and enjoy the moment with other hikers on top of the mountain. It was so hard to leave the top of Katahdin… even though I had a shuttle to catch that meant the return to real life. 

I feel so accomplished having completed the trail and I can confidently stay that it was the hardest thing that I have ever done… but I can’t wait to do it again. I have never done something that has been so simple yet challenging but so rewarding. Every day was a new challenge to overcome, but every step – no matter how hard – was bringing me closer and closer to my final goal. The trail has taught me so much about myself and what I am capable of. I am so grateful for the opportunity to get on trail. It’s safe to say that I’ve been bitten by the hiking bug and I can’t wait to get on trail again!

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