Restaurants & Food
Traditional foods return with demand for local, seasonal produce

- There is an increasing popularity of local and hyperlocal food in India with food festivals, pop-up food events and tours, that promote seasonal indigenous produce.
- Food industry experts say that people are more conscious about the health impacts of food and the environment sustainability of the produce, post the COVID-19 pandemic.
- Seasonal produce must overcome the economic challenge of being in a market with all-year-round crops.
The global food system is the one of the important drivers of biodiversity loss, with agriculture, given its demand for land and pesticides, being the identified threat to 86% of species at risk of extinction. Some studies have shown that planting local produce and practising sustainable agriculture can reduce the need to clear forests and pressures on biodiversity.
Monocropping, or growing a single crop species, of non-indigenous, high-yielding staples — driven by policies and government subsidies — has further affected the already declining popularity of indigenous or local produce. Adding to this, consumer trends have boosted the demand for exotic foods, says Sumeet Kaur of Spudnik Farms in Bengaluru, Karnataka. She cites broccoli as an example, and says, “It was a vegetable unheard of until the 1990s, which was then popularised by restaurants and magazines and is now commonly seen in local vegetable markets and people’s diets.”
Of late, however, there seems to be an increasing shift towards local produce. As per the 2024 India Food Services Report, the National Restaurant Association of India (NRAI) has identified ‘sustainability’ as a key consumer trend. “Consumers are becoming more aware of where their food comes from, about locally sourced ingredients,” Sagar Daryani, president of NRAI, a body representing over 500,000 restaurants in the country, tells Mongabay India. “Brands are moving their focus to seasonal produce, straight from farmers.”
The growing consciousness about the benefits of eating local, seasonal produce is also evident with the rising popularity of food festivals, residencies, workshops, pop-up restaurants, and entrepreneurs who are building the farm-to-fork connection and motivating farmers to grow indigenous produce.
Food festivals are paving the way
Kaur’s initiative, the Rooting for Tubers Festival, for example, highlights the benefits and wide variety of local tubers grown across India. The festival’s third edition held earlier this month showcased 45 varieties of tubers from Arunachal Pradesh, Meghalaya, Tripura, Karnataka, and Odisha and how the local communities consume them. There were interactive workshops with chefs, discussions, food stalls and even an art installation. It also kicked off a residency in Joida, Karnataka, where chefs, food critics, social media influencers, artists, photographers, researchers and others will engage with the local Kunbi community.
“Most of our visitors were either people who led busy lives and were keen on adopting a healthier lifestyle, or a younger, eco-conscious crowd. They wanted to learn how to cook these different tubers,” says Kaur. Mudali, or specifically Kunbi mudali, a tuber grown by the Kunbi community in Joida in the Western Ghats, was a highlight in the festival and the guests learnt how to make rava mudali fry. “Sustainability and biodiversity conservation were trending words until a few years back. Now, it’s a necessity,” Kaur continues.
People’s perspective on food has changed in the last decade, says chef Thomas Zacharias, founder of Locavore, a platform that champions local food through storytelling, events, advocacy and partnerships. “It has been some time since traditional food was re-introduced in restaurant menus, but now there is more research to include hyperlocal produce in the modern food culture and stories. Hence, there is more engagement with chefs,” says Zacharias.
In September 2024, Locavore and OOO Farms organised the sixth edition of the Wild Food Festival in Mumbai, in which ten chefs engaged with the tribal community of Palghar, Maharashtra, to learn how they use wild vegetables in their cuisine. “There were 50-60 kinds of wild vegetables. It piqued people’s curiosity, challenged their perspective,” Zacharias shares. At the festival, visitors saw fresh produce such as the Indian thorny bamboo, fatangdi, kurdu and kharshinga that grow during monsoon in the Sahyadri mountain ranges of Maharashtra. About 30 people from the Bhil, Kokni, Warli, Mahadeo Koli, and Katkari tribal communities, prepared dishes using the local produce.
The recently concluded Nilgiris Earth Festival in Tamil Nadu, is yet another celebration of indigenous food and culture, and the ecology of the Nilgiris. This four-day festival featured, among other things, a meal tasting with the local tribal community, Badagas, an experience of a farm-to-table wood-fired cooking, and talks on indigenous food, including a meal cooked with local produce from the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, that visitors were be able to sample.
Chefs making a change
There is also an increasing acknowledgement of the role of chefs in popularising hyperlocal produce and traditional cuisine. Zacharias, for instance, recently concluded a visit to the Garo hills in Meghalaya exploring the local cuisine in villages as part of his mission, Chef on the Road (COTR). “I started COTR ten years ago to learn and share the traditional ways of cooking by tribal communities,” he says. Sometimes, he invites people to join him on such visits for a first-hand experience. He cooks mahua flower bhaji or subji with the local residents in Palghar (Maharashtra) and even harvests pepper in Munnar (Kerala).
At the global level, The Chef’s Manifesto is a chef-led project of more than 1,500 chefs around the world who explore ways to achieve a sustainable food system. One of their action plans is to promote local and seasonal food by showcasing local producers and traditional techniques in their menus. Chef Sabyasachi Gorai from India is a part of this movement. “The level of awareness among consumers (about sustainability) is still not as high as I would like it to be, but having said that, there is an overall growth in consciousness about hyper-local cuisines and local produce. Foodies, bloggers, home chefs are playing an important role in that,” says Gorai.
Until 2020, when COVID-19 hit, Gorai connected with local producers and farmers in Meghalaya and Assam in India’s northeast. “I would place orders every 15 days to get fresh local produce, like betel leaf, bamboo leaf, hill coriander, from farmers to my restaurant in Pune,” he shares. While there was a halt during the COVID-19 lockdown, he now continues to source produce for his traditional cuisines from their place of origin.
Growth of social enterprises
The pandemic was a major setback to the food and beverage industry, due to the shutdown of operations and disruptions in supply chain, say the food industry experts. “But it also made people more conscious about their health,” opines Anamika Das, the managing director of Kilmora, a social enterprise working with farmers in the Kumaon hills of Uttarakhand to bring their agri-produce and handicraft items to consumers. “After COVID-19, people became more conscious about the impact of food on their bodies. Talking about sustainable choices has now become dinner table conversation.”
Das speaks from experience — although Kilmora has been around for 27 years now, it has seen a rise in enquiries for local produce over the last few years. For instance, their rain-fed rajma (red kidney beans) sold out during the tourist season in Nainital last summer. Their cold-pressed apricot oil from the local variety called chuaru — “it cannot be transported because it ripens quickly” — is also popular. “We encourage farmers to grow indigenous crops, like the Kumaoni millet, using traditional techniques. These kinds of local produce are more climate resilient, we have realised, as climatic changes are increasingly being felt here,” Das explains.
Himalayan Haat, another Uttarakhand-based social enterprise practising forest farming in Pauri Garhwal, is similarly seeing a rise in demand for their produce, like apple cider vinegar, malta cooler, rhododendron cooler and spiced peach preserve. They even have recipes on their website, using the produce they offer — millet salad, malta gin cocktail, plum whiskey smash and fruit popsicle, to name a few. “The fruits that we grow are seasonal and local. We also forage wild blackberries and raspberries that are available only for a few weeks in June,” says Divya Chowfin, co-founder of Himalayan Haat.
Both Kilmora and Himalayan Haat also supply their produce to cafes in cities like Delhi, Mussoorie and Dehradun. Das, for example, works with artisanal baker Keith Goyden, who uses Kumaoni millet in crackers and cakes.
However, both Das and Chowfin acknowledged the economic challenge of being in a market with all-year-round crops. “When it comes to rajma for example, I cannot compete at price point with those that are grown all year round. Our rajma is rain-fed and therefore available seasonally,” Das states. Producer organisations believe that with the removal of multiple middlemen in the market linkages, farmers are getting better prices for their produce and thus encouraged to continue farming local crops. Chowfin also adds, “For repeat purchase by customers, our focus is on quality and not so much on quantity.”
Content creator and entrepreneur Tanisha Phanbuh of Shillong, Meghalaya, similarly sources her produce straight from home when she organises her traditional food pop-up events in restaurants in Delhi. “I get the dry produce, like local rice, black sesame seeds, from home in bulk, and get the fresh produce couriered,” she shares. “I have been doing these pop-ups since 2017, and each time, the response has been massive.”
Hill Wild, another entrepreneurial venture, that sources indigenous food from Manipur and Nagaland, also organises Naga Supper Club in Delhi and the U.S., in which one can sign up for a Naga meal cooked using local produce and traditional techniques like fermentation, drying and smoking.
Sustainability is an important aspect of all these efforts. For example, Himalayan Haat plants local oak trees. “Instead of cutting forests to grow crops, we sustain the forest by growing local oak trees in place of the invasive pine, which in turn helps sustain the forest springs. We also practice intercropping, like is the tradition,” says Chowfin. Hill Wild is re-wilding 20 hectares of deforested land in Manipur’s Teinem village with indigenous fruit trees like lemon and black cherry, as well as hill tomato whose yield will help the local community generate income. Some organisations are also prioritising community self-sustenance. Kaur of Spudnik Farms, for instance, ensures that the Kunbi community sets aside tubers for their own consumption before selling.
“There is a shift in consumers towards healthier, organic and locally sourced ingredients,” says Daryani of NRAI. “There is a peak in demand for farm-to-table practices, which is inspiring chefs and restaurants to transform menus and increase collaboration with local producers.” The slow food movement is gradual, but as Daryani adds, “India’s gastronomic landscape is changing”.
Also watch:
Read more: Looking for nutritional gold in wild greens
Banner image: Visitors browsing the different tubers displayed at the Rooting for Tubers Festival in Bengaluru. Image by Spudnik Farm.
Restaurants & Food
India’s Tribal Cuisines Setting Global Trends

Foraging is a prominent culinary trend in the global dining scene. While it’s incredible to experience hyper-local produce at award-winning restaurants worldwide, it’s vital to remember that foraging has been integral to indigenous cuisines in almost all tribal communities of India for centuries. From Meghalaya and Assam in the Northeast to the rugged landscape of Ladakh and the forests of Jharkhand, communities have thrived due to their deep connection to seasons, forests, and locally available resources. Similarly, culinary buzzwords like ‘sustainability’ and ‘zero-waste cooking’ have been inherent practices in these communities for generations.
Today, highly trained international chefs discuss plant-based foods, local and seasonal produce, and nose-to-tail cooking. However, these have been inherent aspects of traditional cooking even in India’s most remote parts. We spoke to four champions promoting their regional cuisine, documenting it, educating others, and conducting restaurant pop-ups, to highlight indigenous ingredients, special dishes, and cooking techniques passed down through generations.
Revival Of The Forgotten Flavors Of Jharkhand
Jharkhand is home to 32 tribal communities, each with its own distinct food culture. “I’ve been able to document eight of these so far, but that’s just scratching the surface,” says Dr. Manisha Oraon. Not a typical food entrepreneur, Dr. Oraon is a dentist working in rural health, but her true passion lies in preserving Jharkhand’s tribal cuisines, long overshadowed and undocumented. Over the past six years, she has been on a personal mission to document, revive, and innovate upon the indigenous culinary traditions of her homeland. Her work stems from a growing concern of “forgotten identity,” as the traditional foods of Jharkhand—many of which are deeply sustainable and foraged from the forests—are disappearing from everyday lives, surviving only during ceremonies or festivals.
“When I went to the only restaurant in Ranchi that offers tribal food—Ajam Emba—I noticed that it served only the most basic dishes. None of the nuanced, seasonal, or ceremonial preparations were represented,” she laments. Another problem she notes is that people often equate Jharkhand’s food with dhuska or litti chokha, dishes that actually have their roots in the neighbouring state of Bihar. “Our food has a distinct identity that deserves recognition,” she states.
At the heart of traditional Jharkhandi meals is ‘maar jhor’, a staple across tribes in which the broth of an indigenous fibrous, low-glycemic brown rice is used to cook foraged greens. “We never had much access to pulses, so maar jhor became an important source of nutrition,” she explains. Meals also include chutneys, often made from bamboo shoots fermented in stages depending on the season and known locally as sandhana, and mashed preparations like chokha made from roasted tubers. Jharkhand’s cuisine also incorporates edible flowers found in forests, like roselle, kudrum, sania, and hemp flowers that are used in chutneys or added into the maar jhor. The culinary calendar is also in sync with the agricultural and religious one: “We worship trees, and through them, we honour the land and the food it gives us.”
Among the most underappreciated ingredients is mahua, a flower widely misunderstood as being used solely for making local liquor. “That stereotype of villages being alcoholic because of mahua is not only incorrect—it’s damaging,” she says. In reality, mahua has a wide range of uses. “Women eat three soaked mahua flowers in the morning to treat anaemia. We also dry them and use them as natural sweeteners or make them into candies and desserts,” explains Dr. Oraon. In one fascinating preparation, mahua flowers are slow-boiled for hours with roasted tamarind seeds and husk, forming a jaggery-like consistency used as a sweetmeat called mawa latha. “It’s what our people ate when there was nothing else. It was our dessert, a traditional treat,” she smiles. Mahua’s potential also extends to pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, with its seeds yielding oil used for burns and rashes, known locally as dori tel, akin to global shea butter.
Talking about global food trends, Dr. Oraon states that in many ways, Jharkhand’s food system has always been ahead of the curve. It champions nose-to-tail eating, fermentation, slow cooking, and zero-waste practices. It thrives on plant-based biodiversity, incorporates ancient grains like millets, and promotes climate-resilient crops. “We’ve been eating local, foraging, and preserving through sun-drying for generations—what the world is only now calling sustainable,” she says. With innovations like solar dehydrators, her farmer collective is now exploring ways to preserve ingredients more effectively while maintaining nutritional integrity. “We’re trying to combine traditional knowledge with modern techniques to protect what we have,” she says nonchalantly.
Meghalaya’s Tribal Dishes Find Space On Gourmet Tables
As the founder of Tribal Gourmet, A Northeast Indian Pop Up Kitchen, Tanisha Phanbuh’s mission is clear: not just to introduce people to the food of Meghalaya, but to change the way we think about indigenous cuisines from Northeast India. Based in Delhi but rooted in her Khasi heritage, she champions the region’s rich culinary diversity and deep traditions through pop-up kitchens and storytelling that highlight the nuances often overlooked in broader narratives.
“People tend to group all Northeast cuisines into one box,” she says, “but each state—and within them, each tribe—has distinct food traditions shaped by geography, history, and community.” In Meghalaya alone, the food of the Khasi, Jaintia, and Garo tribes varies not only in flavour but also in preparation. Khasi cuisine, for instance, is simple and straightforward, making it a great introduction for outsiders and first-time tasters, while Garo food reflects the state’s tropical climate, often using bolder, earthier ingredients.
A traditional meal in Meghalaya is based on steamed rice, accompanied by a variety of meat, greens, chutneys, and seasonal vegetables. “There’s an innate rhythm to how we eat,” Tanisha explains. “Summer meals are lighter—think stews with chicken or fish—while winters bring heartier fare, with pork, beef, and warming fermented bean pastes.” Interestingly, there’s a cultural preference to include bitter vegetables like bitter gourd or bitter eggplant at lunch, but not at dinner; such subtle dining rules have been passed down through generations.
What sets Meghalaya’s cuisine apart, especially for global audiences, is its deep reliance on hyperlocal and foraged ingredients. “Even in Delhi, I can access 40–50 unique ingredients each week from Northeast markets,” Tanisha says. Some standout elements include michinga, wild Sichuan pepper leaves prized for their heady aroma; tree tomatoes, tangier and meatier than conventional varieties; and sawtooth coriander, a sharper cousin of cilantro. Add to this an abundance of wild mushrooms, seasonal greens, and backyard herbs sourced from villages and forests, each telling a story of the land and the people who tend it.These traditional ingredients and methods are also remarkably in line with global food trends. “Fermentation, for example, is now seen as revolutionary,” she notes. “But we’ve been fermenting bamboo shoots, fish, and soybeans for generations.” Meghalaya’s respect for whole-animal cooking also mirrors the growing ‘nose-to-tail’ philosophy. Dishes like doh khlieh (pig brain salad) and ja doh (a pig’s blood in a risotto-like preparation) reflect not only ingenuity but a cultural reverence for resourcefulness and zero-waste cooking.
“In many ways, our food has been global before the world caught on,” Tanisha says with a smile. “I just wish more people knew about us, and that’s my lifelong goal.”
Ladakhi Cuisine Incorporates Warmth And Energy For The Harsh Climate
High in the trans-Himalayan region of Ladakh, the culinary tradition is deeply shaped by its geography, Buddhist culture, and the harsh yet beautiful climate of the mountains. Ladakhi cuisine is simple yet soul-nourishing with a strong focus on seasonality and sustainability. “Fermentation, drying, and sun-curing aren’t recent health fads here,” says Nilza Wangmo, founder of Alchi Kitchen, an all-women-run restaurant in Alchi. “They are time-honoured practices that our grandmothers taught us, methods that not only preserve food but also enhance its nutritional value, especially in a cold desert like Ladakh.”At its heart, Ladakhi food is an expression of resilience and harmony. Barley, the region’s staple grain, is transformed into dishes like phey or tsampa, while root vegetables, lentils, and wild greens are used in dishes that are as comforting as they are delicious. Even simple preparations like skyur, a fermented dough, or chhutagi, a hand-rolled pasta in a vegetable broth, reveal a delicate balance of texture and flavour. A typical Ladakhi meal is warm and filling, made with what is locally grown, especially essential in a place where winters are long and unforgiving. Flatbreads made from barley or wheat, broths such as thukpa, mokthuk, and chhanthuk, and generous helpings of mok mok (dumplings) make up daily meals. “Lunch might be a simple one-pot dish, but dinner is when the family gathers, especially in winter,” Nilza explains. Butter tea, locally known as gur gur cha, is consumed throughout the day offering both warmth and energy.
Local and foraged ingredients offer a rare insight into Ladakh’s biodiversity. Bright seabuckthorn berries (tsestalulu) bursting with Vitamin C, detoxifying nettles (zatsot), and the tangy native rhubarb (lachu) are not only delicious but also medicinal. Flavour enhancers like skotse (wild chives) and kornyot (wild cumin) deepen the sensory richness of Ladakhi food. These are ingredients that support immunity and well-being, principles now echoed in global wellness trends.
At Alchi Kitchen, the goal is clear: preserve the essence of Ladakhi cuisine while engaging in the global culinary conversation. “We’re deeply rooted in our traditions, but those traditions are now more relevant than ever,” says Nilza. “What the world is asking for—sustainability, plant-based diets, fermented foods, mindful eating—we’ve been doing for generations.” Their farm-to-table philosophy helps minimise food miles and maximise flavour by sourcing from local farms and foraging from the wild. But what sets Alchi Kitchen apart is its commitment to culinary storytelling. Every dish tells a story, that of a grandmother’s recipe, a family memory, or a harvest tradition. “In a fast-paced world, we offer a slow, immersive culinary experience that connects diners to the land, the people, and the past, mirroring the global trend toward experiential, mindful dining,” says Nilza.
The Simplicity, Sustainability, And Soul Of Assamese Home Food
For those who believe food tells the story of a place, Assamese cuisine offers a rich, deeply rooted narrative of heritage, ecology, and restraint. From foraged greens in forested villages to delicate fermentation techniques passed down through generations, Assamese food is a fine example of culinary subtlety and balance.
“As a food enthusiast with a passion for discovering indigenous cuisines, I find great joy in exploring the subtle nuances that define each culinary tradition. When it comes to my own Assamese cuisine, its uniqueness lies in the use of fresh, homegrown vegetables, a restrained yet thoughtful use of spices, and the emphasis on slow cooking techniques. These elements come together to create dishes that are not only deeply flavorful but also rooted in tradition and sustainability, making Assamese cuisine a true gem in the global gastronomic landscape,” says Parnashree Devi, a travel blogger who hails from Assam; she has been sharing the nuances of Assamese cuisine on various platforms.
Fresh, homegrown vegetables, seasonal herbs, and a nuanced use of spices are the cornerstones of this cuisine. Dishes are slow-cooked and designed to nourish. A traditional Assamese thali might feature the staple yellow daal, steamed rice, a mix of sautéed leafy greens (known locally as xaak), and simple but soulful sides like aloo pitika (mashed potatoes) or begun bhaja (fried eggplant). A more elaborate spread might include dishes like mati dail khar (a type of alkaline lentils), poita bhat (fermented rice), or kosuthuri kon bilahir logot, a rustic preparation of tender colocasia leaves with tangy cherry tomatoes. There’s also a wide variety of non-vegetarian fare such as lai xaak gahori (pork with mustard greens), til diya murgi (chicken with black sesame), and haah kumura (duck with ash gourd).
What makes Assamese cuisine so compelling on a global scale is its deep synergy with current culinary movements. “Farm-to-table cuisine is championed unequivocally as it’s a traditional way of life with the use of fresh herbs, wild greens, and locally sourced produce in daily cooking. Gut-friendly staples like fermented mustard seeds and poita bhat have been nourishing our people for centuries,” explains Parnashree. With its slow cooking methods, clean flavours, nutrient-dense dishes, and rich connection to land and heritage, Assamese cuisine is very much at par with global standards.
Related: Arunachal Pradesh Vs Assam — Which Northeast Indian Escape Is Right For You?
Note:
The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.
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Restaurants & Food
Indigenous Indian Ingredients: Global Culinary Renaissance

In recent years, the world has witnessed a renaissance of sorts in the culinary landscape — one that sees indigenous Indian ingredients and age-old cooking techniques stepping into the spotlight on global platforms. From Michelin-starred restaurants in London to boutique kitchens in Tokyo and New York, chefs are rediscovering the depth, complexity, and sustainability embedded in India’s food heritage. It’s not just about the curry any more — it’s about charcoal-grilled mustard fish from Bengal, Himalayan foraged greens, wood-fire-roasted meats from the Northeast, and millets made cool again.
From the forests of the Northeast to the spice fields of Kerala, India’s culinary landscape is rich with heritage, biodiversity, and flavours. And now, this once-local treasure trove is being celebrated on a global stage. Chefs, mixologists, and restaurateurs worldwide are not only using indigenous Indian ingredients but also reviving traditional cooking methods, giving them a place of prestige on international platforms. A deep dive…..
Indigenous Indian Ingredients on the Global Plate
India’s food culture is deeply rooted in local produce — often wild, seasonal, and medicinal. Today, the culinary world is embracing these ingredients for their nutritional value, flavour complexity, and cultural richness. Here are some of the most popular indigenous ingredients making waves globally:
Millets, long considered “poor man’s grain”, are enjoying a global resurgence. The UN declared 2023 as the International Year of Millets, and chefs like Rohit Ghai (of London’s Kutir and Manthan fame) are featuring dishes like millet khichdi with truffle oil and foxtail millet upma on refined tasting menus.
Jackfruit, often dubbed as a meat alternative, has become a darling of the plant-based movement. While traditionally cooked as kathal ki biryani or dry sabzi in Indian households, jackfruit tacos and BBQ-style pulled jackfruit are now found in global chains like Wagamama and even Whole Foods pre-packaged meals.
Indigenous Chillies: From bhoot jholokia to guntur, a variety of Indian chillies have made a mark on global menus. A promising example would be the use of Naga chillies at Tabla by Chef Floyd Cardoz and in chutneys at Dhamaka, New York.
Mahua: Another widely used indigenous staple, the mahua flower as well as mahua extract have found their way into menus such as in Ekaa, Mumbai, which uses it to flavour pork belly and desserts.
From Kalari to Churpi, and Kalimpong, India boasts of native varieties of cheeses and chefs have now started popularising them in gourmet dishes. Indian cheesemakers such as Kumaoni Blessings have been popularised by celebrated chefs including Gary Mehigan of MasterChef Australia fame.
Kokum, a souring agent from the Konkan belt, is increasingly being used in wellness drinks and cocktail infusions across upscale bars from Melbourne to Miami. The ingredient’s antioxidant properties and tangy punch have caught the attention of beverage curators like Alex Kratena in Europe, who incorporated kokum shrub into one of his tropical-inspired menus.
A Return to Roots: Traditional Cooking Techniques
Alongside the rise of ingredients is the rebirth of long-forgotten traditional cooking techniques. Indian cooking, often described as complex and laborious, is being re-examined with reverence by chefs and food historians all over the world. The return to slow-cooking, wood-fire, fermentation, and earthenware cooking reflects a global yearning for authenticity.
The Dum Pukht style — slow cooking in a sealed pot — has made its way into fine-dining kitchens from Dubai to Paris. At Trèsind Studio in Dubai (Michelin-starred), Chef Himanshu Saini reinterprets classic Indian dishes using traditional methods like dum to extract deep, soulful flavours. His version of lamb nihari cooked over 12 hours is a masterclass in patience and technique.
The bhuna, dhungar (coal smoking), and tandoori techniques are being reappropriated beyond Indian restaurants. Asma Khan, owner of London’s Darjeeling Express, often demonstrates the traditional use of smoking a dish with a coal and ghee to infuse richness — a method being embraced by food stylists and chefs worldwide for its dramatic flair and depth of aroma.
India’s nuanced approach to fermentation — from idli-dosa batter to rice kanji and achaar — is finally being understood as a sophisticated form of food science. Chefs like David Zilber (former head of fermentation at NOMA, Copenhagen) have referenced Indian pickling and fermentation techniques in his work, acknowledging their precision and diversity.
In New York, Semma, helmed by Chef Vishwesh Bhatt and backed by the team behind Michelin-starred Dhamaka, serves regional Indian fare from Tamil Nadu — all cooked in traditional clay pots. Their goat curry, simmered in earthenware, delivers an earthy depth that steel just can’t match.
Meanwhile, banana-leaf grilling — a staple in Kerala, Tamil Nadu and even Bengal (don’t forget the bhetki paturi!) — is now a theatrical and eco-friendly cooking style found in Thai-Indian fusion eateries in Sydney and LA, as well as London.
Restaurants harnessing Indian heritage:
Semma, New York City
Semma in NYC has redefined Indian cuisine in America by boldly spotlighting hyper-regional, home-style dishes from South India that are rarely seen on Western menus. Led by Chef Vijay Kumar and backed by the Unapologetic Foods group, the restaurant dives deep into the culinary traditions of Tamil Nadu, offering rustic, ancestral recipes like Nathai Pirattal (snail curry) and Venison Sukka. Its unapologetic celebration of authenticity — without diluting spice or storytelling — has earned Semma a Michelin star and positioned it as a cultural force changing the narrative of Indian food in the US.
Snail Curry at Semma, NYC
TresInd, Dubai
TresInd has pioneered a progressive Indian fine-dining movement in Dubai, fusing avant-garde techniques with deeply rooted Indian flavours. Helmed by Chef Himanshu Saini, the restaurant brings molecular gastronomy and modern plating into play while staying true to traditional ingredients and stories. Dishes like the deconstructed pani puri or khichdi of India pay homage to regional classics in a new-age format, making TresInd a trailblazer in elevating Indian food to haute cuisine status in the Middle East.
A5 Wagyu striploin prepared like the classic Pathar Kebab at TresInd, Dubai
Benares, London
Opened by acclaimed chef Atul Kochhar, Benares was one of the first Indian restaurants in the UK to receive a Michelin star, signaling a shift in how Indian cuisine was perceived in the UK. Nestled in the upscale Mayfair district, Benares champions a refined interpretation of regional Indian flavours, marrying them with British ingredients in elegant, globally-influenced dishes. Through its thoughtful menus and stylish presentation, Benares has been instrumental in placing Indian food firmly on the fine-dining map of London, moving it beyond curry-house clichés to culinary prestige.
Murg Jhol Momo served with Foie Gras at Benares, London
Avatara, Dubai
Avatara holds the distinction of being the first and only fully vegetarian Indian fine-dining restaurant in Dubai to receive a Michelin star. Created by the team behind TresInd, it reimagines India’s spiritual and culinary vegetarian roots through a multi-course tasting menu that is both seasonal and deeply philosophical. Chef Rahul Rana leads a kitchen that honors forgotten grains, temple foods, and Ayurveda-inspired techniques, presenting a narrative that shifts the focus from indulgence to introspection while showcasing the diversity of India’s plant-based traditions.
Klaayah, a melange of Bengali green pea luchi with shisho leaves, creamy green pea chokha and mustard-carrot jhol with a touch of green caviar at Avatara, Dubai
Enter Via Laundry is one of Melbourne’s most exciting and intimate dining experiences, founded by Chef Helly Raichura. What began as a private supper club hosted in her home has evolved into a refined restaurant celebrating regional Indian flavours through a carefully curated degustation menu. Located in Fitzroy North, the space retains its personal, almost clandestine charm — true to its name, guests literally enter through the laundry. The multi-course meals take diners on a journey across India’s diverse culinary landscape, featuring lesser-known ingredients and techniques rarely seen in mainstream Indian cuisine. With only a handful of seats available per night, Enter Via Laundry offers not just a meal, but a cultural narrative plated with precision and heart.
Kerala-style appetisers at Enter Via Laundry, Melbourne
Chourangi in London brings the bold, aromatic flavours of Calcutta to the heart of Marylebone, offering a refined and soulful take on Eastern India’s rich and diverse culinary heritage. Co-founded by celebrated restaurateur Anjan Chatterjee, the restaurant captures the spirit of Calcutta — a city known for its layered cultural influences — through a menu that draws inspiration from British, Mughlai, Bengali, and even Chinese cuisines. Dishes are crafted with over 300 spices and ingredients, showcasing everything from tangy street-style chaats and delicate seafood to robust slow-cooked meats and fragrant rice preparations. Set in a warm, stylish space with colonial-era touches, Chourangi blends nostalgia with modern finesse, introducing London diners to a lesser-explored side of Indian cuisine.
A Bengali classic, the Daab Chingri at Chourangi, London
A Culinary Identity Reclaimed
The rise of indigenous Indian ingredients and traditional cooking techniques on global platforms is more than a food trend — it’s a cultural reclaiming. For years, Indian food abroad was simplified, Anglicised, or relegated to takeaways. Today, it’s being elevated with nuance and integrity.
Chefs like Garima Arora, Prateek Sadhu, Asma Khan, Sujan Sarkar, and Chintan Pandya are unapologetically showcasing India’s diversity — not just through ‘classic dishes’ but through ancient methods, foraged ingredients, and tribal wisdom. It’s a movement rooted in pride. A movement that understands that the future of food may well lie in the past.
Chef Prateek Sadhu (left) of Naar and Chef Manish Mehrotra, known as the man behind Indian Accent and Comorin, both have been the champions of Indian ingredients as well as techniques. While Mehrotra put Indian dishes on the world map, Sadhu, on the other hand, is on a quest for bringing Himalayan biodiversity to the plate, Sadhu sources rare ingredients like sea buckthorn, black garlic from Ladakh, and local grains. His work emphasises sustainability and terroir.
Vikas Khanna has long been a torchbearer of India’s culinary arts, and through his international ventures, he’s brought temple cuisine, ancient grains, and tribal recipes into Michelin arenas with Junoon in New York and now the recently opened Bungalow in New York as well.
Garima Arora, India’s first female Michelin-starred chef, continues to bring techniques like open fire-roasting and fermentation to the fore at Gaa in Bangkok.
Chintan Pandya, whose restaurants Dhamaka, Adda, and Rowdy Rooster in New York have received immense acclaim, is unafraid to serve bold, unapologetically spicy Indian food — including items like goat kidney and liver fry, or Champaran mutton cooked in sealed clay pots.
Asma Khan is making Calcutta and her culinary roots from Awadh shine with her celebrity and even royalty-acclaimed spot Darjeeling Express in London. Her all-women kitchen is popular for dishes like the Calcutta-style dum biryani that masters the art of dum and slow cooking.
Pictures: Instagram and iStock
Restaurants & Food
Food beyond the fame – Lifestyle News

By Nikhil Merchant
The idea of celebrities owning restaurants in India isn’t new. We still remember the early-2000s’ buzz around Someplace Else in Mumbai, co-owned by Bobby Deol, or the excitement when Sachin Tendulkar opened his namesake restaurant in partnership with hotelier Sanjay Narang. Around the same time, Suniel Shetty’s H2O: The Liquid Lounge was another hotspot, driven less by food and more by the hope of spotting a star. Back then, these places were more like fan experiences than serious dining destinations.
A New Wave of Star-Backed Ventures
But something’s shifted. Over the past few years, we’ve seen a different kind of celebrity-owned establishment emerge—one with clearer intent, stronger partnerships, and deeper personal storytelling. Today’s celebrities aren’t just lending their names; they are curating spaces, investing time in the concept, and working alongside experienced professionals to shape something that resonates beyond the usual expectations.
There’s nostalgia, branding, and the careful projection of a public persona—all channelled through food. So what’s really driving this new wave of celebrity-led dining ventures? Why step into a business known for its high failure rate, even with money and fame in your corner? And when the allure fades, what really keeps these places standing?
It starts innocently enough. You’re at a restaurant—the interiors are swanky, with an air of glamour, metallic or mirrored glints, it’s all a bit surreal and elegantly showy. You pick up the menu and there it is—the name. Not printed (too gauche), but in the carefully italicised whispers floating through the air. “You know it’s their place, right?”
Dining With Identity and Intent
India’s celebrity-led hospitality boom has traded the old-school dazzle for a more curated kind of fame—a space where stars descend from front of camera into raw business, seeking solace in an industry that still knows how to keep you in the limelight. But if you think these are just vanity projects laundered with truffle fries, think again—the profit-and-loss sheet is very real.
Back in the day, it was Arth that hinted at what was possible. Designed by Gauri Khan, it became a two-pronged sensation—her high-design polish (and the chance to bump into her husband), paired with chef Amninder Sandhu’s signature fire-cooked menu. Today, names like Gaurav Batra—brand head at True Palate Hospitality—carried on that evolution. “We don’t just start blindly or star-struck,” he says. “We start with the guest—and ask, what are they hungry for that the market isn’t feeding?” His projects include filmmaker Karan Johar’s Neuma in Mumbai and now Jolene in Goa by Amrita Arora. “With Amu, we weren’t chasing flash-in-the-pan virality. We wanted something people came back to,” he adds.
If Amrita was enchanting the coast, her sister Malaika Arora brought poise to Mumbai. Her venture, Scarlett House, is what she calls “quiet and warm luxury,” converting a landmark bungalow in a village in Bandra to a haven of coziness and comfort, much like an elegant home.
“We focused on elevated simplicity,” she says, adding: “The idea was to build a high-touch experience with a strong word-of -mouth appeal —something that lasts longer than hype.” Co-founded with her son Arhaan, it’s equal parts elegance and Gen-Z fluency—from music to digital UX.
Batra isn’t slowing down either. He launched One8 Commune with ace cricketer Virat Kohli—a pan-India, premium-yet-approachable brand. Meanwhile, Yuvraj Singh —the World Cup-winning all-rounder with a knack for comebacks—follows suit with his latest venture in Gurgaon, KOCA. Inspired by childhood staples like kadhi chawal and rajma, he calls it a “culinary playground” grounded in the discipline and teamwork that defined his cricketing years. “Building KOCA required meticulous planning and collaboration,” he says. This foundation has been instrumental in shaping KOCA’s ethos and operations.
The narrative shifts when we consider the work and ideologies behind these celebrity-backed concepts—they steer clear of unapproachable appeal and instead veer towards community and acceptance. Kona Kona in suburban Mumbai, founded by actor Mona Singh and consulting chef Jasleen Marwah, is a bar-forward space which exudes comfort and attracts the notion of community. “I didn’t want fancy,” says Singh. “Just a place where people feel at home.” The menu blends Indian and popular global flavours in their truest form—shareability. Think childhood flavours in a modern bar setting. Both Singh and Marwah, shaped by peripatetic upbringings, have poured their collected food memories into every plate and corner.
Meanwhile, Shilpa Shetty’s Bastian Hospitality has evolved significantly since its inception, pushing boundaries in luxury dining—immersive, ever-relevant, and always a few steps ahead. “Bastian has always stood for more than just dining,” she says. “We wanted to meet today’s discerning, global diner with concepts that feel fresh, thoughtful, and exquisite,” she adds.
That same philosophy is applied in the brand’s new sibling, Blondie—a specialty café in Bandra. “Blondie was born out of a desire to create something more intimate, more everyday—a space that speaks to the culture of casual, community-driven dining,” she says. With a cool menu to boot, including ceremonial-grade matcha and beans sourced from 45 women farmers in Chikmagalur, Blondie brings resourceful and sustainable thought processes to trending tastes.
Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai-born food and beverage expert, consultant and writer.
Disclaimer: Views expressed are personal and do not reflect the official position or policy of FinancialExpress.com. Reproducing this content without permission is prohibited.
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