• Sam Moore Shelter (1002.9) to Bears Den Hostel (1005.9)
• 1148 feet ascent, 791 feet descent

Sometimes being close makes things feel worse. We only have 3.6 miles to cover today, and less than a mile tomorrow. We had planned to hike both of these short distances today and be to the end of Virginia. It didn’t happen. We had given the hostel in Harpers Ferry a target date, give or take 1 day and the give or take gave and took. We had no internet and were unable to reach our hosts until today and then only to find out there was no room for us. After a moment of distress, we righted our ship and made it OK to take two days. We are out here to learn to live in the moment so this was a good test. 

We are on the Trail to reorient and “chill.” The past 15 years for us have included multiple major losses that we were expected to control, and did, but at a great cost to our emotional, financial, and physical health. We, along with 65 of our neighbors, lost our home and all of our possessions to wildfire. We lived apart for years care-giving for protracted cancer and COVID deaths of elders and complex, distressing estates for which we were the executors. When the dust settled, we told the family and friends we needed a break. Everyone was amazing. The elder we currently care for told people we were going “on sabbatical” for four months while we finished the AT. Before we left, we cooked 150 meals for her in advance. Her friends and our family helped with transportation for healthcare. Through the magic of the internet we managed her finances and personal care supply deliveries from the Trail. An extra night in Virginia was the perfect opportunity to test our our emotional reaction to renewed flexibility. 

Bears Den, not Halfway Hideaway Hostel

When we originally planned the end of our Virginia section, we considered staying at Bears Den Hostel. It is an official hiker’s hostel owned by the Appalachian Trail Conservancy and operated by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. Since we have been trying to experience the iconic AT things, it fit our list. We also wanted to go to Harpers Ferry so that we could go to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy office. I had already hiked the distance between Snickers Gap and Harpers Ferry in 1975 so left Bears Den on the list of options, but decided to get a shuttle from Snickers Gap to Harpers Ferry. 

When we finally got to the top of a hill where we could get a connection to the Hostel, they told us they had no space for us tonight. We were looking forward to being done with Virginia, but took the extra day in stride. We made jokes about Virginia having the last word, something she did often on the trail. “Virginia is flat” is true, but flat with tipper and tripper rocks. “Virginia is flat” but Mount Rogers, The James River and the Three Ridges are decidedly not flat. “Virginia feels like it never ends” is true and we were given one last chance to discover how long the AT in Virginia is. 

Either we were too hot to care, or we really were OK with the change in our schedule. Neither of us was upset and we had a good time at Bears Den. 

Hm. . .Someone Made it Hot?

When we started out after breakfast, we congratulated each other on the short day. We were planning to zip over the 3.6 miles of Roller Coaster trail as if it was nothing. I don’t know why we were thinking we had a “nothing burger” for the day. When we hit the 500 foot climb in 90/90 (90 degrees with 90% humidity) we both acted as if someone had played a trick on us. Short must equate to cool, right? 

Silly hikers. No. Hot is hot. Short is short. Hot short is not short. Hot makes you go slower and slower we did go. 

The benefit of knowing we did not have anywhere else to be today was we felt at liberty to take as many breaks as we wanted, and for as long as we wanted. 

During our breaks we meet multiple other very interesting hikers, including a day hiker who had a son teaching at University of Wyoming from whence we graduated. The heat of the day lead to a round of “it is so cold in Laramie, Wyoming” stories. We were all laughing and enjoying the cold memories. 

The Rocks Are Different

Give that the Roller Coaster is effectively all lower-altitude, 2nd growth forest of a similar type, neither the views or the vegetation commads much attention. As I was staring at the ground, trying not to trip on the Virginia rocks that are not technically there according to tradition, I got to thinking about how different the rocks here in Northern Virginia are from the rocks in Southern Virginia. 

From the hikers perspective, falling on a Northern Virginia rock is potentially less painful than falling on Southern Virginia rocks. Southern Virginia rocks are sharper than the Northern Virginia rocks. Much of Southern Virginia is composed of fine-grained volcanic Rhyolite and when it breaks it can form sharp edges. Northern Virginia rocks demonstrate more weathering and erosion. In addition to mechanical weathering from forces like ice, water and wind, they are subject to spheroidal weathering in which the corners and edges wear faster than the flat surfaces.

This is a spheroidal weathered rock I found today. 

Northern Virginia’s geology had limited limestone formations and is largely eroded igneous and metamorphic rocks, with some sedimentary deposits. Southern Virginia’s geology has a broader range of rock across different physiographic provinces including older rocks and more limestone deposits. 

Flowers and Bugs

Of course, along with the rocks, we noticed the flowers and bugs. Two flowers we have not seen often included Campanulastrum americanum (Linnaeus) Tall Bellflower and

Aegopodium podagraria L. commonly called ground elder, herb gerard, bishop’s weed, goutweed, gout wort, and snow-in-the-mountain. 

Bears Den

We finally arrived at Bears Den. The grounds and buildings were, as promised, very special. 

There was a secret password that could be figured out from hiking clues so we could let ourselves inside. The hiker hostel is in the basement and was relatively cool compared to outside. There were the typical hiker-hostel directions so we found bunks, towels, and got baths. We even found a phone number for a shuttle driver who was happy to help us get from Snickers Gap to Harpers Ferry tomorrow.

We were flat out of food, as we had not expected to be on the trail after tonight. I discovered we could pay a small fortune to have food delivered to us so I placed an order. The Historian wanted a burger and I got nachos. An entree salad for sharing was the perfect balance. 

The food came just after the upstairs of the Hostel opened. I waited outside for the driver while The Historian checked us in.

The driver was ever so kind. He had done a lot of section hikes and was delighted to bring food to the Hiker Hostel. His companion was amused by our story and we all laughed when she announced she was born in 1975 when I set out for my original hike. They wished us well and drove off. 

It was perfect timing. We were able to spread out on the large dining table in the beautiful stone dining room and eat to our heart’s content.

We even had an audience, although we were warned not to feed them. The dogs could not read the signs so expected to be fed. 

Dinner was topped off with a full pint of ice cream each. Yum. Won’t be doing that when we go back home.

The Rewards of Flexibility

So many things felt uncomfortable this morning. The heat, delaying departing Virginia, and how to get from Snickers Gap to Harpers Ferry had been weighing on us. We committed to living on the path we were on and taking the moments of the day as they came.

Before the day’s end, we had solved all of our conundrums for the day. After a short hike with visits, a shower, a satisfying meal, and the promise of a shuttle at the end of Virginia, it was a perfectly flexible day. 

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You hear the same advice every summer: slather on sunscreen and limit your time in the sun. Those rules still apply, but not everyone is getting the message.

Skin cancer is the most common type of cancer in the United States, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation; one out of every five people will develop skin cancer before the age of 70. Over the past three decades, skin cancer rates have gone up. Between 2011 and 2019 alone, rates increased by 31.5 percent. What’s behind the rise?

“The overall increase in skin cancers has to do with cumulative sun exposure combined with lack of adequate sun block or protection from UVA/UVB rays,” says Dr. Ava Shamban, a board-certified dermatologist in Los Angeles, California.

It’s time to get smarter about your sun exposure. Here are five things you need to know about sun exposure, according to a dermatologist, plus tips for enjoying the sun more safely.

1. Wearing Sunscreen Every Day of the Year Is a Must

You may not think about wearing sunscreen when it’s cloudy or rainy or even during winter. Yet you should. Why?

“The most harmful ultraviolet rays are present every day,” Shamban says. “They don’t retreat in winter and can filter through dark cloud coverage, which is why any uncovered areas of the body at any time of the year are exposed and vulnerable to the damage of the sun’s UV rays.”

Dermatologist-approved tips:

• Lather on sunscreen after you shower: make sunscreen application as much a part of your daily routine as brushing your teeth. Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen that protects against UVA and UVB with an SPF of at least 30 and slather it on when you get out of the shower in the morning, as you would lotion.
• Put it on areas likely to be exposed to sunlight: this includes your legs, arms, shoulders, décolletage, neck, face, ears, and hands. The American Cancer Society also suggests a lip balm with sunscreen. You might even add a hand cream, moisturizer, or makeup with sun protection to your daily routine. These won’t replace sunscreen but will offer added support for vulnerable areas that are never covered in your reapplication plan, Shamban says.

2. One Bottle of Sunscreen Should Only Last You a Couple of Months

How quickly you go through that sunscreen depends not only on how big the bottle is but also on how well you’re applying it. In general, though, aim to go through at least one bottle during the summer, more if you’re sharing that bottle with others. If your bottle lingers, it’s a sign you’re probably not using enough.

Dermatologist-approved tips:

• Measure one ounce of sunscreen: The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends applying an ounce of sunscreen to your face and body. That’s about the size of a shot glass; for easy reference, keep a shot glass in your bathroom to help you measure it, Shamban says.
• Don’t skip your face: Your face alone should get a nickel-sized amount, says Dr. Adele Haimovic, a dermatologist based in New York. You should then reapply every two hours, she says.
• Don’t use expired sunscreen: Just watch those expiration dates, as sunscreen breaks down over time. “I’ve seen people who have gotten burns because they used expired sunscreen,” she adds. Once a year, go through all your sunscreens and toss any that have expired.

3. Skin Cancer Around the Eyes Is More Common Than You Think

Although any exposed skin may be prone to developing skin cancer, the skin around your eyes is particularly vulnerable because it’s thin and delicate, Shamban says. Roughly five to 10 percent of all basal cell carcinomas occur on the eyelids.

Dermatologist-approved tips:

• Wear polarized sunglasses: While you should always wear sun-protective eyewear when outdoors, choose a darker, polarized lens rated for ultraviolet protection; most sunglasses don’t have enough UV protection alone.
• Toss on a hat: If you don’t have polarized glasses, opt for a wide-brimmed hat that gives you at least three inches of shade. You can also use an umbrella to limit sun exposure.
• Consider alternative sun care products: Sunscreen is crucial, but if it bothers your eyes and causes a stinging sensation, use a mineral version, one containing zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide, Haimovic says. You can also try a fragrance-free sunscreen for sensitive skin. Alternatively, use a protective powder with an SPF rating for your eyelids; try a stick formula or one with a “doe foot” applicator, which allows more precise application versus your finger, Shamban says. A broad-based sun-protection eye cream will also do the trick.

4. UV Light Can Penetrate Through Windows

Being by windows can give your mental health a boost, but know that those windows, whether in your home, office, or car, will expose you to harmful UV rays. There are two types of rays—UVA and UVB—and each one affects the skin differently. UVB rays are the classic burning rays, the most common cause of sunburns and the type most associated with skin cancer, says Haimovic.

Meanwhile, although UVA rays can cause sun damage and also lead to skin cancer, they’re associated more with aging, and it’s these rays that penetrate more through windows. “Most glass does not protect against UVA exposure,” Shamban says, adding that while some of the UVB rays get through, all of the UVA rays do. That’s one reason year-round sunscreen is so critical on exposed parts of your body.

Dermatologist-approved tips:

• Buy UV protection shields for car windows.
• Clothing can even add another layer of protection.
• Look for detergents that wash sun protection into your clothing.

5. Training Outside Increases Skin Cancer Risk

While this may be a no-brainer, it’s worth repeating: if you’re logging the miles outside, you’re at an increased risk of skin cancer.

• Reapply often: because you’re sweating so much sunscreen off, you  ‘ll need to reapply more frequently if you’re training outside.
• Avoid the brightest times of the day: plan your workouts so you’re not outside when the rays are at their strongest, generally between 10 am and 4 pm.

Bottom line? “Even if the sun doesn’t shine, it’s not a free pass from sun protection,” Shamban says. “Ultraviolet rays don’t take a vacation, and skin cancer knows no season.”

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