Day 100- 12 Miles today from Kinsman Notch to Kinsman Pond shelter, 4600 Feet Up, 2700 Feet down,     

Planning Makes God Laugh

I got in early yesterday and a group was laying out plans with Patience from Welcome hikers hostel. They were all being very strategic about resupplies and everything through the Whites. I popped open my Fiddlehead double IPA and sat down to listen to the conversation.

I didn’t have a plan yet. I didn’t even know what was coming up next. Maybe it was the fear of the unknown I was avoiding. Now that I did Moosilaki though I understood what the Whites were in terms of technical hiking. It now made sense why the daily miles I’ve been hammering out would drop.

I then decided I would go ahead and lay out a four day conservative plan. No slack packing. I would just put on my pack and go into the Kinsmans.

The Kinsmans

The next day I felt much better even though my mileage was going to drop drastically. I had a 12 mile and a couple of 8 mile days laid out for the Kinsmans and then into Franconia. My only concern was the weather coming in as I would enter Franconia. I then went to bed real early and got a great night sleep.

This morning I looked at the weather and it still looked like weather would be coming in when I got above treeline on Franconia. So I decided to change the plan and bail out at the notch after the Kinsmans and do a zero the day of bad weather.

Let’s Go

Started this morning at 7:30 from Kinsman Notch and had to first tackle a long climb out of the gap (of course). It was cool morning and I had a full pack but for once I’ve gone light on the food and the water.

Even though I got a long haul before I get to water again I really need to stay light in the Whites. I might also be eating just peanut butter wraps for a couple of days but at least I won’t have to carry all that heavy weight on these technical hikes.

The first half mile out of Kinsmans Notch was about 1300 ft per mile but it wasn’t as bad as the southbound climb out of Kinsmans notch.

Quite Time

The woods however are eerily quiet once again. I don’t hear any sounds of any birds or anything other than my footsteps once again. Maybe that’s a reminder to empty my thoughts.

“What are you doing with life That’s what death asks you” Michael Singer

The next challenge was Mount Wolf. The hike up to Mount Wolf had a few technical sections some easy stuff and some not so easy stuff.

Heading down to the Eliza Brooke Shelter was a descent. It was actually quite fun. There were parts that I could fly on and go really fast. And then there were other parts that I had actually put my poles down and climb. But it was a fun hike. I got to a trail junction and realized I had already done seven miles and my speed was 1.8 miles per hour or better. I did not expect that kind of pace.

Big Blaze

I just stopped to look at my phone for a second and then when I looked up I was wondering if I was on the AT or if I had taken a side trail. It is easy to do in the Whites. The trails are named other than Appalachian Trail and blazes are minimal. When I looked up I saw the biggest fattest blaze I’ve seen yet.

Technical Climb

After the Eliza Brook shelter the trail climbed on what looked to be an old road bed. It was still an overall climb of over 2000 feet in 2 miles up to the South Kinsman Mountain but most of that elevation gain would come soon.

The climb then started to get technical after the waterfall section of Eliza Brook. It was beautiful plus had the magic serenade of the falling water as I did the technical climbs required. It was hand hold climbs that were very difficult but I was having fun.

I continued to climb leaving Eliza Brook. There are a few sections that were technical or acquiring me to basically do some rock climbing.

Magical Swamp

After a long very difficult rock climb all the sudden I stepped out into a swamp. The swamp had a boardwalk that went through it.

All around the swamp though on one side was steep rock walls. It was the most spectacular swamp I’ve seen so far on the trail. I was surprised to also see that the Kinsman shelter was only 3 miles away.

I’m starting to think that one of the things one of the lessons that the Whites are teaching me is not to fear the unknown. People have been fear mongering the Whites so much that I was so apprehensive to cross them. But after Moosilaki I started to understand. There are some technical sections and some crazy parts but just like anything challenging you can do it by taking one step at a time.

Cliff Climbing

Trail went then went up a small creek ravine. After climbing the boulders up the ravine and a few technical climbs trail really started doing a hard climb. I need to learn how to put my poles in my pack because the climbs were so technical poles were a hindrance. I had to use my hands to find cracks to pull myself up. Every time I turned there would be another climb. Eventually I reached the summit of South Kinsman Mountain and the trail was flanked by scrubby pines not even head high.

I passed from South Kinsman Peak through Kinsman Peak. The trail in parts was pretty fast and cruisy but in other parts was very technical. Had a few more technical climbs and a few more technical dissents.

Home at Last

And then I reached the Kinsman Pond shelter. I picked up the AMC pass for 10 dollars. I know people complaining about it but the camp was so clean and organized. Tor, the campground host had cleaned the shelter, and cleaned and disinfected the privy.

I went down to the pond to grab my water and it really was a frog water. Knockerz has joked about frog water in the past when I had to pull swamp water in order to have a drinking source. This is definitely frog water because there was a frog in it and tad poles. But it wasn’t swampy frog water just a big beautiful pond.

I sat down by the lake and ate my dinner by the pond. The pond was covered in lily pads with little yellow flowers and reflected the mountain ridge on its surface. A great ending to a great day.

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Just because you’d rather avoid crowds of tourists when you travel doesn’t mean you have to boycott popular destinations—you simply have to know when to go. Off-season travel is the best way to feel like a local in a beautiful place. Even better, when you choose to visit somewhere during a less busy month, you’re also likely to find better deals on flights, hotels, and tours.

Whether you’re tempted by a quieter side of Venice or a trip to San Francisco when the weather might actually be good, here are 12 suggestions, one for each month, for off-season destinations to visit throughout the year.

January: Marrakech

The sun is strong in Marrakech, and for much of the year it’s pretty hot, but January is the city’s coolest month—the air is downright crisp. Start off the year here and you’ll be able to wander around the souk and Jardin Majorelle for hours without desperately seeking shade. Expect sunny days in the mid-60s and cool nights that get down to 40 degrees. Those clear skies are ideal for stargazing, too, so head up to the Atlas Mountains 60 miles or so away for nighttime adventures; after a devastating earthquake in September 2023, the High Atlas Mountains region is recovering and has bounced back thanks in large part to tourism. Remember that sunset causes a big temperature drop, as is typical for a desert, so pack a proper winter jacket and a fleece, some cashmere, or both. If you’re curious and a seasoned skier, try a few runs in Oukaimeden, a ski resort in the mountains—know, however, that facilities are basic.

Where to stay

Book now: Maison Brummel

Next to Jardin Majorelle and Yves Saint Laurent Museum is the eight-room Maison Brummell, a modern hotel highlighting traditional Moroccan craftsmanship with hand-woven carpets, a curving tadelakt staircase, and terrazzo floors and bathtubs. This is the place for those who want to be in a central and walkable neighborhood but avoid the bustling Medina.

February: Venice

Venice without the crowds is a tall order, but one of the easier ways to have the canals almost to yourself is to come in February. The faded glamour of La Serenissima is only burnished by the damp days and dark evenings. If the rain gets to be too much, sit in any café for a restorative hot chocolate—even the always packed (if overpriced) Florian—without bumping elbows with tour groups.

Locals may grumble about acqua alta, or high water, the regular floods that hit the city in winter, but for visitors, it’s a quirky delight. Streets will be filled with tables that form makeshift sidewalks in a few feet of water, and walking around requires thigh-high plastic waders. Most hotels will have them on hand this month; just ask. Once you’re wearing them, we dare you not to splash around with toddler-like abandon. And plus, it’s Carnival the first half of the month, a great excuse to put on a jewel-studded mask.

Where to stay

Book now: La Calcina

La Calcina is a charming canal-side property in Dorsoduro, a region that’s less flood-prone (hence the name: hard back) that overlooks the residential island of Giudecca. The 26 rooms here, dominated by damask velvet textiles, have big radiators and thick curtains to keep out the chill.

Related: I Was a Tour Guide in Venice—Here’s Why Winter Is Hands-Down the Best Time to Visit

March: Kenya

So many vacationers go on safari during the Northern Hemisphere’s summer that large crowds have been seen blocking wildlife migration paths in East Africa, stirring up controversy. One way to help the problem? Travel instead to safari-rich countries like Kenya during the wet season—the green season, really. Starting in March, this is a chance to see the countryside at its most abundant: Smells are intense as the plants and trees burst into life, and the torrential, but fleeting, rainstorms soak the landscape in spectacular fashion. You’re likely to see baby animals, since this is calving season for wildebeests, zebras, and many other species. Always look for responsible lodges and tourism operators, such as andBeyond and Angama Mara.

Where to stay

Book now: Angama Mara

Split into two camps with 15 tented suites each, Angama Mara’s perch on a cliff top overlooking the Mara makes for jaw-dropping views at breakfasts as the sun rises. The midcentury-inflected East African decor is a refreshing change from most lodges.

April: Jackson Hole, Wyoming

This month, elk begin to migrate from the National Elk Refuge here to their summer home up north, so expect to see them idling everywhere—along highways, in yards, and, of course, the plains of Grand Teton National Park. It’s a chance to see the same thing happen across the countryside, as wildlife emerges from hibernation and bursts into life; come for fly fishing (the season opens on April 1), and you’ll see the water teem with fish and be jostling with far fewer anglers. (Be patient, as snow runoffs can spike some days.) The park is a favorite of stargazers, and International Dark Sky Week (April 13–20, 2026) is a good excuse to celebrate the great cosmos here. April 1 is also Gaper Day, the spoofish end-of-season slopefest when skiers dress up in impractical outfits to hit the slopes one last time—think ponchos, jeans, or Hawaiian shirts—and end the day with a raucous après-ski that lasts through the evening.

Where to stay

Book now: Hotel Jackson

Hotel Jackson, the 55-room hotel in the heart of downtown Jackson Hole, has views out across the Snow King and Jackson Valley mountains and decor that’s a winkingly stylish riff on Old West clichés. If the weather is less than ideal for outdoor adventure, read by the fireplace in the hotel’s Sacajawea Library or snag a seat in the rooftop hot tub, open daily from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.

May: Kaua’i, Hawai’i

Spring is the Goldilocks time for Hawai‘i, a place where there’s no weather-driven low season since the climate is consistent almost year-round. May, though, is that just-right time: no more winter rains, surf conditions remain impressive, and the extra jolt of summer heat hasn’t begun.

Crowds are thinner and attractions like the Kalalau Trail are easier to navigate—it’s much drier than in summertime when conditions can be slippery. Boat operators begin their season this month (wrapping up in September), so see the Na Pali coastline from the water. Try a sunset charter from Holo-Holo, with abundant drinks and a delicious spread from $230.

Where to stay

Book now: 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay

Ultraluxe sustainable chain 1 Hotels is LEED-certified, has green roofs, and uses a rainwater harvesting system to irrigate its garden, 70 percent of which are filled with native plants. The hotel’s 252 beachy-modern rooms have ceiling fans to cut down on air-conditioning usage and views of either the Pacific, the surrounding mountains, or the hotel’s own garden.

Related: Gorgeous Beaches, Small Towns, and Waterfalls: This Is One of the Most Beautiful Islands in the U.S.

June: Park City, Utah

Ski destinations across the world struggle to gain traction with visitors when the pistes aren’t powdery—a shame, as any outdoorsy type can relish Park City even when it’s warm. Opt to hike and mountain bike many trails in the summer, when lift tickets are much cheaper: An adult scenic lift day pass is $39 rather than hundreds of dollars as it would be in peak winter ski season. Resorts like Deer Valley throw events to lure visitors, such as a series of free summer concerts, and the farmers’ market runs every Wednesday from late May through October. A bonus for Park City in particular: Winter Olympians train here off-season, so you can watch them at the water ramps and slides around town.

Where to stay

Book now: Montage Deer Valley

Soothe those aching muscles at the end of a day’s hike at Montage Deer Valley, a 10-minute drive from downtown Park City. The sprawling property has 220 rooms, a heated outdoor pool, a hot tub, and a smaller indoor pool. It also offers activities for guests such as guided hikes daily at 10 a.m., archery lessons, and nightly s’mores around the firepit.

July: Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

Who needs the overcrowded, overpriced, and often sweltering Mediterranean in summer? Puerto Vallarta has spectacular beaches and plenty of plush hotels. Even better, it’s a short-haul, direct flight to most major hubs stateside. The weather is glorious most of the season; when it rains, mostly in the midafternoon, use that downpour as an excuse to take a siesta after a long, indulgent lunch.

If you’ve got a group, consider chartering a yacht for a day or more out on the water. Underwater activities like scuba diving and snorkeling are superb in and around Los Arcos, a collection of gray granite islands with arched caves about six miles off the coast that form a protected marine park.

Where to stay

Book now: Hacienda San Angel

Welsh actor Richard Burton’s former home is now an adults-only boutique hotel in a handsomely restored hacienda down the coast from central Puerto Vallarta. The 12 handsome suites at Hacienda San Angel have antique carved wooden furniture, marble floors, and vaulted ceilings with exposed beams. Rooms are spread across a few villas connected by gardens with trickling fountains, and there are three pools, so guests can revel in plenty of privacy.

August: Nordic countries

In the northern reaches of the Nordic countries, the days are long and bright during summer, and night is a mere few hours. At the beginning of August, the sun goes down at 11 p.m. and comes up at 3:30 a.m., and by the end of the month, it sets around 9 p.m. and rises at 5:30 a.m.

Head to the edges of the Arctic Circle in Sweden and watch golfers tee off at Björkliden Golf Course, which runs for 24 hours a day this month. As for Finland, the sauna’s spiritual home, go for a bracing midnight swim and then heat up in a nearby cabin. Brave the steam rising from the heated coals (known as löyly) and soak in summer’s end.

If you really enjoy bundling up, go even further above the Arctic Circle to Lofoten, an archipelago in far northern Norway. Float through the fjords or cycle around the islands, moving from one quaint fishing village to the next. Their red-painted wooden cabins are backed by craggy peaks and overlook glassy (ice-cold) lakes.

Where to stay

Book now: Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort

Finland’s Kakslauttanen sits in the country’s Lapland region and has log chalets (open from June 1 to October 30) and glass igloos that can be booked from the last week of August. Summer activities include gold-panning on property, cruising the river in Lemmenjoki National Park, horseback riding, and mushroom and blueberry foraging. To cozy up at the end of a long day, the resort has three smoke saunas—a type of sauna that uses firewood to slowly build its warmth.

September: San Francisco, California

There is a month when the weather in San Francisco doesn’t careen through four seasons in a single day. July and August can be particularly bad offenders, but come this month, and you’ll be sharing a local’s secret. September is when you won’t need to pack sunscreen, an umbrella, and a scarf in your day bag. The balmy, breezy temps stay consistent and (mostly) sunny all month, usually in the mid-70s. Given that San Francisco is a city where walking is both the easiest and most interesting way to get around, that’s a major plus. A handful of fun citywide events take place this month, too, like the Shakespeare Festival’s free performances in McLaren Park, the Autumn Moon Festival in Chinatown, and Flower Piano concerts in the botanical gardens. September also brings the kink-friendly (and adults only) Folsom Street Fair, which donates proceeds to public health, the arts, and human services nonprofits.

Where to stay

Book now: Kimpton Hotel Enso

Most hotels in San Francisco are concentrated downtown, but branching out to neighborhoods such as Japantown is one of the best ways to get to know the city like a local. In a nod to the area’s heritage, Kimpton Hotel Enso has 131 airy rooms with light wood furniture, indigo-dyed textiles, and kimono-style bathrobes.

Related: These 10 Beautiful Hotels Will Give You a Reason to Visit San Francisco

October: Aruba

Hurricanes tear through the Caribbean in the fall, but not all parts of the region are affected. Aruba, a 69-square-mile island close to the Venezuelan coast, sits in the southernmost reaches of a small area that’s outside the hurricane zone. Come here for a can’t-miss beach vacation with postcard-perfect golden sands rimmed with palm trees: Try Eagle Beach for idling, water sports on Arashi Beach, and snorkeling off Malmok Beach.

Where to stay

Book now: Boardwalk Hotel

Twins Stephanie and Kimberly Rooijakkers own the adults-only Boardwalk Hotel, a charming alternative to the generic chains that tend to form the bulk of on-island accommodation. The hotel has 49 casitas and two pools, and it’s a three-minute walk from Palm Beach, where you can stretch out on the provided sunbed beneath thatched umbrellas.

November: Provence, France

Come in late fall to this bucolic corner of southern France and you can gorge on two delicacies at once. It’s truffle season, and up to 80 percent of the black varieties of this tuber that grow in France originate right here, in Vaucluse. By train or even by bike from Avignon, head to the Friday market in Carpentras (8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.) to watch truffles sell for prices that crypto-bros might envy. Or try one of the tasting menus at a local restaurant that incorporates them into a multi-course meal—it’s pricey but unforgettable to dine at Sevin, right in the center of Avignon next to the Palais des Papes.

It’s also olive season, a much more affordable treat. From roughly October 15 to November 15, join a tour at Les Pastras in Cadenet, an hour’s drive from Avignon, to pick your own and enjoy a light Provençal picnic for €25 (approximately US$29) per person.

Where to stay

Book now: Hotel de Cambis

Two hours and 45 minutes by train from Paris, Avignon is a quaint base for exploring Provence. Keep the gastronomic theme going by staying at the colorful Hotel de Cambis, where the rooms are categorized like wines (premier cru, grand cru) and the decor is heavy on burgundy, red, and pink. The hotel is around the corner from excellent contemporary art museum Collection Lambert Avignon, spread across two 18th-century mansions.

December: Dubrovnik, Croatia

In December, Dubrovnik is festooned with a Mitteleuropa-style Christmas in its cobbled old town. Come to the Dubrovnik Winter Festival to taste local delicacies (look for orahnjaca, a yeasty walnut roll cake) and soak up the ambiance with outdoor concerts, carol singing, and plenty of souvenirs.

December 6 is a highlight of the calendar—it’s St. Nicholas Day, when Santa leaves gifts for good kids, and the hairy demon Krampus leaves a stick or two for anyone who’s been naughty. Stay around until New Year’s Eve, and you can celebrate with a three-day music festival that climaxes with a symphony performance on January 1. Winter in Dubrovnik is cold, so come well prepared with warm, waterproof clothing and shoes so you can stay outdoors and truly enjoy the colorful holiday installations.

Where to stay

Book now: The Pucić Palace

The 19-room Pucić Palace in the heart of the old town offers a chance to channel your inner aristocrat, whether Hapsburg or Targaryen—think heavy drapes, marble bathrooms, and antique furniture. The hotel is a minute walk from Luza Square, where Dubrovnik’s main Christmas market is set up from late November through January 6.

Related: Make the Most of Croatia’s Many Charms—Without the Crowds

This article was originally published in 2022 and most recently updated on August 1, 2025, with current information. Sophie Friedman contributed to the reporting of this story.

There’s nothing quite like it. Not the spa cold plunge. Not the chlorinated pool. Not even the ocean I lived beside for nearly a decade. I’m talking about a true alpine lake dunk—the kind that leaves your skin tingling, your breath caught in your chest, and your mind somehow quieter.

I got my coldwater start at Fern Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park. Since then, I’ve dipped into Trillium Lake near Mount Hood, launched into June Lake in the Eastern Sierra, and once hurled myself into the lake beneath the glacier on Mount Timpanogos, where I genuinely wondered if I might die of hypothermia. Worth it. Every time.

Now that I live in Salt Lake City, alpine lakes feel like a seasonal treasure I have to earn (though I did kick off 2025 with a frozen river dip in the Wasatch, ice chunks and all). As an unapologetic winter person, I actually think I might need them. Summer Sierra is sluggish, sweaty, and prone to dramatic sighs. It’s safe to say I’ve deserved to be told—at least once or twice—to go jump in a lake. Honestly? That’s great advice.

My best friend Jill and I call our ritual a “dope dip”—short for dopamine dip. We dunk three times, saying a gratitude with each submersion. Sometimes the only things I can think of are “this view,” “this person,” and “my still-attached toes.” At other times, I’m able to take it slow, to really observe my environment and my body within it. Those are the best plunges.

Afterward, I’m calmer. Clearer. Less of a grouch, more of a human. It’s no exaggeration: I am a better person after I’ve jumped in an alpine lake—if only because I’ve shocked the bad attitude right out of me.

Craving your own dope dip moment? Here are some of the best swimming holes in U.S. national parks to get you started. Want to know why cold water works such magic on your nervous system? This 30-day plunge challenge explains the science behind it.