Trekking has never really been my favourite, but when it comes to Tiger’s Nest, the famous Buddhist monastery in Bhutan’s Paro district, how could I neglect it? Despite the warnings about the difficult terrain — steep, uneven, and slippery paths — and my less-than-stellar fitness level, I was determined to go for it.
I was traveling with a wonderful group of 12 people, most of them full of energy. My close friend, despite her knee problem and bulky build, was also determined to trek, completely unfazed by the challenges ahead. We set off on a chilly, rainy Friday morning, starting at the trailhead from Paro town (a historic town with many sacred sites and historical buildings) for the iconic Tiger’s Nest, which clings precariously over the edge of a cliff.
Before I start narrating the adventure, let me tell you a little about the monastery. Perched at 10,000 feet above sea level, Paro Taktsang or the Tiger’s Nest is not only a working monastery but also merged in myth and legend. It is said that Guru Padmasambhava, also known as Guru Rinpoche, meditated in one of the caves here for three years, three months, three weeks, three days, and three hours back in the 8th century. Legend has it that he flew to this spot on the back of a tigress, giving the monastery its name.
Despite the rain showing no signs of letting up, we set off with trekking sticks in hand. Some of my friends were smart enough to bring rain covers, while I had just a jacket and a hat gifted to me by my friend. The hat earned a compliment from a friendly Italian tourist on way to the splendid spot. It was only drizzling as we began the climb around 9:30 am, excitement pushing us forward. My friend, though aware of how tough the climb might be, was determined to give a try.
One of our group members hired a pony, and soon we all spread out, each moving at their own pace. I stuck to a slow and steady approach, starting from the base of the mountain. According to our guide, the entire 7-kilometer trek could take six to seven hours roundtrip. We were surrounded by colourful fluttering prayer flags and stunning views of the mountains and valleys. These colourful prayer flags called Lung Dhar, come in five colours representing the five elements of nature. Walking through the pine forest with a wonderful view in between I was more eager to see the Jewel of Bhutan, which is the top tourist destination of Bhutan. My friend moved slowly and carefully, making sure not to step on any loose soil or mud.
After about three hours, we made it halfway to the cafeteria. The cafeteria is the midpoint of the hike where you will be able to take some rest, refresh yourself, and fill your tummy before continuing the hike.
Up to this point, the climb was manageable, with the stunning views of Paro Valley below keeping me motivated. When I finally reached the View Point, I could get the magnificent view of the monastery, barely visible through the mist. But very soon, the mist lifted, and we stood there in awe, immersed in the beauty. This is the place from where most of the pictures are taken.
The high altitude means that the air is thinner, making the hike more strenuous. As you ascend, the temperature drops, providing a constant reminder of the height you’re achieving. And I decided to trek further down to reach the monastery.
While we didn’t enter the monastery, we got close enough to feel its spiritual power. A waterfall sprayed cool mist on us as we made our way down, adding to the experience. However, we were warned not to linger too long because the rain wasn’t showing signs of stopping, and would make the return trip more challenging. By 2:30 pm, my travel buddy and I, holding hands tightly to avoid slipping, started the descent.
Completely drenched, we relied on our trekking sticks and each other for balance. After about 1.5 km, I saw my friend, who could make it only till the View Point, and our guide slowly navigating the slippery, rocky path. At one point, our guide had to help both of us, moving between me, my travel buddy, and my friend to ensure we were all safe. My friend, soaked and weighed down by her wet jacket, struggled, but the guide and another team member held her steady.
I trembled as it grew darker, and I decided to join another group who kindly offered to help me down. I thought it would make things easier for our guide, who was already struggling to support my friend, trembling with fear as the night crept in. Out of nowhere, three loyal dogs appeared and began walking beside us, almost like they were sent to guide us through the forest. Their quiet presence was quite comforting.
Soon after, a driver of another travel group arrived and took my hand, gripping it firmly. With him by my side, the trek suddenly felt much easier, though the darkness still made every step a challenge. Our mobile phone lights became our lifeline, casting just enough glow to see the path ahead, and the dogs stayed faithfully with us, leading the way through the blackness, almost as if they knew the way better than we did.
Every so often, I’d ask the Bhutanese man helping me, “How much farther?” and he’d reassure me, “Madam, we’re almost there.” Trudging through mud and slush, my shoes wet and smeared in dirt, I kept going, his words offering hope. Finally, at 6:55 p.m., I spotted the faint glow of a torchlight at the base where we had started. Tears welled up as I asked one last time, “How much farther?” and he smiled, saying, “Madam, we are at the base.”
Relieved, I hugged the driver and thanked him. In my rush to reach the car, I didn’t even think to ask his name. Exhausted but grateful, I looked back, searching for my friend and travel buddy. About 30 minutes later, they arrived, completely worn out.
This adventure will stay with me forever, a reminder that the spiritual strength of the place helped me get through. Visiting the Tiger’s Nest is not only a physical journey but also a chance to connect with Bhutan’s heritage and natural beauty. Though my legs and hands ached afterward, I look back with fulfilment. The rain may have made it harder, but with Lord Buddha’s blessings, we made it.
This is the first part of the author’s elaborate travelogue. Watch this space for next part…
