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How to Visit Reykjavik and Beyond

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Looking to travel to Iceland but only have a limited amount of time? While we loved spending 2 weeks in Iceland and taking a road trip of the entire country, we’ve also visited Iceland for a shorter amount of time. On our shorter trip, we only had 3 days in Iceland and we’re going to show you how we made the most of it.

On our most recent trip to Iceland, we spent three full days in the country (we flew out on the fourth day), proving that it’s easy to venture to Iceland for a long weekend. Justin and I based ourselves in Reykjavik and took day trips to the Golden Circle route and South Iceland for glaciers and waterfalls.

In this 3 days in Iceland itinerary, we’ll show you exactly how to plan a flawless trip. This travel guide details how to get around Iceland, where to base yourself, and how to spend your days.

This itinerary is perfect for the spring, summer and fall. Have a little more time? Check out our 5 days in Iceland itinerary, 7 day Iceland itinerary or 10 days in Iceland itinerary.

In the winter, simply check the roads before you embark on any longer drives as the weather conditions may disrupt your trip. The winter also tends to have far shorter days (five hours of daylight versus nearly 24 hours of daylight in the summer), though it’s ideal if you’re looking to spot the northern lights.

Getting Around Iceland

Getting around Iceland is easy when you rent a car. While it’s possible to take day tours in Iceland, I highly recommend renting your own vehicle. Having a car rental in Iceland allows you the flexibility of going where you want, when you want. Earlier in the morning or later in the evening will help avoid the large bus tours and you might even have some attractions all to yourself.

I suggest renting a car in Iceland for a road trip from Reykjavik, whether you decide to follow this travel itinerary or simply embrace the open road to see what you stumble upon. Pick up your rental car at the Keflavik Airport and return it back at the airport at the end of your trip.

While Reykjavik itself is very walkable, having a rental car allows you to easily get to Sky Lagoon for the afternoon. Then, take your car rental out for the day to the Golden Circle (day two of this itinerary) and South Iceland (day three of this itinerary).

Iceland in 3 Days Video

We created this Iceland travel video all about our adventures on the island for three days. Many of the places mentioned in this itinerary are featured in the video. Take a look and don’t forget to subscribe to our channel to stay in touch.

3 Days in Iceland: Day 1 (Reykjavik)

There’s a good chance that your flight will arrive early to the Keflavik Airport. Try to get some sleep on your flight as we’re going to hit the ground running straight away. With only 3 days in Iceland, there’s no time to be wasted! Plus, we’ll relax later in the afternoon at Sky Lagoon.

Here are some of the best places to visit when you spend one day in Reykjavik. I suggest walking around Reykjavik for the first part of the day. Visit Sky Lagoon in the afternoon, and then return back to Reykjavik for dinner. By night, you’ll likely want to get to sleep early to adjust to the time change and feel rejuvenated for the next two days in Iceland.

Hallgrimskirkja

Hallgrimskirkja is the tallest church in Iceland, and the sixth tallest structure in the country. It towers above the other buildings in Reykjavik, so it’s the best place for a scenic view. Not only is the architecture of this church quite unique and stunning, but there’s a 360 degree panoramic view from the top.

The church itself is free to enter. You can check out the exterior and interior of the church at no cost. However, you’ll want to splurge on the ticket to the top of the church tower. It’s an extra 1000 ISK. After a short elevator ride, you’ll enjoy an amazing view overlooking the whole city.

Laugavegur (Shopping Street)

This is the main shopping street in downtown Reykjavik. You’ll be able to do some window shopping, browse the boutiques, and perhaps bring some souvenirs home for family and friends.

There are quite a few restaurants and cafes on Laugavegur. Icelandic coffee is so delicious. Stop by Kaffibrennslan for a tasty cappuccino or latte. It’s open early in the morning and turns into a bar in the evening.

Street Art, Murals and the Rainbow Street

Even though Iceland offers a rather stark landscape, Reykjavik is one of the most colourful places I’ve been. There are stunning works of public art, street art, and murals all over the city. Go for a walk and you’ll likely run into many on your journey.

Don’t miss the Rainbow Street, a lengthy stretch where a rainbow is painted on the ground. This is a pedestrian-only street leading up to the Hallgrimskirkja church.

Reykjavik Waterfront (for Harpa and Solfar)

Take a scenic stroll along the waterfront, just a few blocks away from Laugavegur. Admire the views of the distant mountains across the water. One iconic sculpture you must check out is Sólfar, also known as the Sun Voyager. It is an ode to the sun, and the promise of undiscovered territory and freedom.

As you continue your walk, you’ll soon come across Harpa, the impressive glass concert hall building. Admire Harpa from the outside and then venture indoors to witness this beautiful glass structure from another perspective. Even if you aren’t attending a show, you’re welcome to visit Harpa at no cost.

Sky Lagoon

Spend a restful afternoon at Sky Lagoon, an oceanside geothermal lagoon. It’s only a short drive from Reykjavik’s city center. Sky Lagoon consists of one larger geothermal pool with a 75-metre infinity edge. Soak up those captivating views as you relax in the naturally heated lagoon.

We opted to participate in the 7-step Skjól Ritual. This consists of entering the warm lagoon, taking a cold plunge, relaxing in the sauna, getting refreshed by a cold mist, exfoliating with a body scrub, absorbing the hot steam, and drinking an elixir of krækiber (crowberries that are native to Iceland).

Essentially, you’ll alternate between hot and cold for an invigorating and therapeutic experience. It’s such a good idea to partake in this Icelandic tradition, especially on your first day in Iceland after an overnight flight or long travel day. Sky Lagoon also has a swim-up bar with alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages.

3 Days in Iceland: Day 2 (Golden Circle)

It’s day two of our 3 days in Iceland trip and time to explore the famous Golden Circle route. The Golden Circle offers the quintessential Icelandic experience when it comes to its wondrous nature. It’s also incredibly easy to embark on a self-drive itinerary with your own vehicle.

Thingvellir National Park

Thingvellir National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s the site of Iceland’s first parliament (AlÞingi) in 930 AD. The first parliamentary proceedings laid the groundwork for a national identity and a united cultural heritage. It also led to the founding of the nation of Iceland.

Thingvellir National Park is the only place in the world where two individual tectonic plates are visible above ground. Most tectonic plate boundaries are only seen underwater. At Thingvellir, the ridges of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates tower above the ground. You can walk between them. The rift runs right through Þingvallavatn, the largest lake in Iceland.

Geysir

In the Haukadalur geothermal area, you’ll find a site with famous geysers. In fact, all geysers are named after the largest one in the area, Geysir. Unfortunately, Geysir rarely erupts anymore. However, there’s a slightly smaller one called Strokkur that erupts very regularly.

You can see the hot water burst from the surface once every two to ten minutes. While we were visiting, Strokkur erupted a few times. The water shoots anywhere from 15 to 40 meters high. It’s quite the sight!

Gullfoss

Gullfoss, or the Golden Falls, is a gigantic and stunning waterfall. It tends to get quite misty here (or at least it has on our previous two visits), so you’ll be lucky if you manage to catch it on a sunny day. There’s a path leading down to the waterfall so you can view it from up above.

Alternatively, you can walk further down the path to get up close to Gullfoss. On rainy and misty days, you will need to wear a waterproof jacket and pants, otherwise you’ll get soaked!

3 Days in Iceland: Day 3 (South Iceland)

On day three of our 3 days in Iceland itinerary, we’ll spend the entire day driving to the South Coast of Iceland and back. While you could plan to stay in a hotel on the South Coast, I suggest venturing back to Reykjavik at the end of the day. If you’re flying out the following morning, it’s a good idea to stay not too far from the airport.

We’ll witness two amazing waterfalls, a black sand beach (and plane crash, if time allows) and go hiking on a glacier. This is a packed day of adventure with quite a bit of driving, but it’s well worth the road trip.

Seljalandsfoss

Our first stop on our south coast Iceland self drive tour was the gorgeous waterfall, Seljalandsfoss. Seljalandsfoss is a famous waterfall with a 60 meter drop. It’s possible to walk behind the waterfall. Be sure to bring your rain jacket. Be sure to walk up to Seljalandsfoss and right behind it on this loop trail, it’s an incredible experience.

After you experience Seljalandsfoss, there’s a second “secret” waterfall at this location that not many tourists visit. Walk along the path to reach Gljúfrabúi, which means “the one who lives in the canyon”.  In a narrow entrance in the Franskanef Cliff, this waterfall location is thought to be the home of elves. Witness this waterfall inside the canyon – you can get up close, but you will get wet!

Skogafoss

The waterfall, Skógafoss, is one of the largest in the country with a width of 82 meters and a drop of 60 meters. From the base of the waterfall, there is a staircase built into the side of the mountain. We hiked up to the top of the waterfall for amazing views of the coastal lowlands and the Icelandic highlands.

Solheimasandur Plane Crash Site

A popular place to visit that’s off the beaten track is the Sólheimasandur plane crash site. In 1973, a United States Navy Douglas Super DC-3 airplane had to make a crash landing due to extreme icing. Fortunately, everyone survived the plane crash. The wreckage remains near the Sólheimasandur black sand beach.

There’s still a sizable parking lot at the entrance to the site. The walk to the plane crash takes about 45 minutes in one direction. Witnessing the crumbled wreckage of this small plane is well worth the trek.

With so many tourists and the passage of time, the plane itself is in poor shape. The sand has weathered the exposed interior, and the wings are falling apart. With tourists stomping around on top of the plane, posing for selfies, it’s going to eventually be completely destroyed for everyone. Please be respectful of places like this so everyone can continue to enjoy them in the future.

Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach

Finally, we explored the dramatic black sand beaches at Reynisfjara, just before the town of Vik. From the Ring Road, we drove down Route 218 to a parking lot at the end of the peninsula.

Justin and I admired the views from the peak before venturing down to the nearby Kirkjufiara Beach to put our own footprints in the sand. There’s nothing quite like this scenery: deep blue waters, black sand beaches, and far off rock formations, shaped over centuries.

Solheimajokull Glacier Walk

In the afternoon, Justin and I went for a hike on the Solheimajokull Glacier. You cannot go hiking on this glacier on your own. You are only allowed to visit with licensed guides and the proper equipment, so it is imperative that you book a tour in advance.

On this tour, you’ll wear crampons, hiking boots, a helmet and carry an ice axe. Admire the incredible scenery all around as you hike on top of the icy glacier. Walk across this rugged terrain, discover the varying colours of ice and dirt (from previous volcanic eruptions) and drink the water from the glacier.

This is one of the most beautiful scenes in Iceland and I could hardly believe that I was on top of an actual glacier! We missed doing this activity on our first trip to Iceland, and I’m so glad we were able to do it on our second visit. Walking on the Solheimajokull Glacier is an absolute must when venturing to the South Coast of Iceland.

Where to Stay in Reykjavik

There are many great options for hotels and apartments in Reykjavik. We loved staying at the Grandi by Center Hotels. It’s conveniently located in downtown Reykjavik and you’re able to reach most places by foot.

This hotel comes has an expansive breakfast buffet and a complimentary spa in the basement. Book out your time slot for the spa and enjoy the heated pools, sauna and relaxation spaces.

The hotel itself has spacious and comfortable rooms, free Wi-Fi, a fitness center and other modern amenities. Book your stay at Grandi by Center Hotels.

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More Aussies are using AI to plan holidays, from scoring deals to assembling itineraries

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I’m planning a trip to Iceland, aka one of the most expensive countries in the world.

Can I afford to go? What would a realistic budget look like for a two-week holiday? How can I cut corners to save some cash?

I decide to do the 2025 equivalent of phoning a friend — I ask my buddy ChatGPT.

My initial prompt is too vague and it gives pricing in USD, which isn’t particularly helpful. I refine my criteria, asking for a rough total in AUD for a fortnight in September, departing from Perth (“please”, I add, because manners are still important when talking to a robot).

In the blink of an eye, Chat spits out a breakdown of average costs on everything from flights to accommodation, car rental, food and activities.

There are three tiers for backpacker, mid-range and luxury travel and an option to split components if I have a travelling companion.

It even offers suggestions for making my hard-earned coin stretch further, like buying groceries rather than eating out and opting to self-drive rather than joining a guided tour of the famous Golden Circle.

All in all, Chat reckons I’ll need to save $8500-$9000 to make Iceland happen.

What would have taken me hours of research and a lot of math just to ascertain whether I can even consider the trip in the first place was reduced to mere minutes.

Cutting corners, cyber style

While I want to give myself a pat on the back for being so resourceful — there’s a certain smugness that comes with finding a sneaky shortcut — I am hardly the first to use ChatGPT for travel tips.

In recent research conducted by Compare the Market, nearly a third of those surveyed admitted to using artificial intelligence to plan their holidays.

These Aussie respondents said they outsourced a range of tasks to AI, with the most common being destination recommendations, hunting for deals, seeking activities and finding accommodation.

Others reported they used AI to quickly create itineraries, scour flights or transport and understand currency conversion.

The data also gave insight into how different generations are embracing the technology — or not.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, gen Z and millennials are spearheading the adoption of AI when it comes to concocting their dream vacation, with 52 per cent and 44 per cent respectively utilising the tool to plan a holiday.

Meanwhile, 93 per cent of baby boomers and 76 per cent of gen X respondents said they were resistant to bringing AI into their trip arrangements.

Compare the Market’s Chris Ford says the stats reflect how we engage with the ever-changing tech landscape.

“Our latest data highlights a shift in the way travellers are approaching their planning, with convenience, personalisation and speed driving the adoption of innovative AI tools,” he says.

“It’s likely that travellers are using these tools in addition to chatting with travel agents, conducting desktop research or seeking ideas and inspiration from social media.

“AI is evolving at a rapid rate and as it becomes more accessible and intuitive, it’s not surprising that travellers are relying on new technology to help shape their dream holidays.”

But the insurer warns against taking AI’s word as gospel.

With nothing to validate the credibility of such recommendations, Ford says travellers need to practice due diligence.

“AI can be a great starting point when planning a holiday, but always ensure you’re crossing your ‘t’s and dotting your ‘i’s,” he says.

“Many of these tools and services are still in their infancy stage and may not be 100 per cent accurate, so do your own research to ensure you’re equipped with the right tools and information for your trip.

“The last thing we want to see is anyone getting themselves into a potentially dangerous or unsafe situation based on the recommendations from AI.”

Camera IconMany Aussies are using virtual itineraries. Credit: Oscar Wong/Getty Images

The virtual line in the sand

Ford makes a crucial point here about our relationship with platforms like ChatGPT.

Rather than approaching them as one-stop-shop to curate every element of our holiday, we should instead consider them as a starting point to kick off deeper research.

After all, isn’t that part of the fun with travel — the anticipation in the lead-up, the process of discovering a destination before we have arrived and assembling a bucket list tailored to our specific taste?

By asking a computer to generate an itinerary based on what’s popular, we are depriving ourselves of creativity, spontaneity and adventure.

We must also remember that what the AI bot spits out is dependent on the quality of our prompts.

The more we refine our request, the more likely we will receive helpful answers, but even then things can go wonky.

Take this from my colleague Belle: “I asked ChatGPT to give me a child-friendly restaurant in Ubud. It sent me to a weird health food restaurant with a koi pond where you couldn’t wear shoes. My feral children cleared the room within minutes. Disaster.”

Then there’s the cognitive dissonance that comes with considering the environmental impact of AI versus the fear of being left behind if we don’t get on board with this technology.

Like it or not, it is shaping and re-shaping the future at breakneck speed.

We all have to decide where our (virtual) line in the sand is: what is productive and “mindful” use based on our needs and values.

For me, I’m OK with employing ChatGPT to whip up a quick budget so I can take the holiday to Iceland I’ve always dreamed of.

But when it asks if I want activity recommendations or a detailed itinerary next, I politely decline. I’d rather leave some room for mystery and exploration.

“Thanks”, I farewell my cyber mate in my sign-off (because, manners).

What the team thinks

Our collective of writers just so happens to represent the four age demographics mentioned in the research above. So what’s the hot take?

Stephen Scourfield — baby boomer

Trusting someone – or, in this case, something – to book a holiday (particularly a family holiday!) requires a lot of trust.

If some detail is missed in the booking process (a wrong date, a badly timed connection), it will be you standing there, somewhere, trying to fix it (possibly with the family “on your case”).

Would I trust AI yet?

No – not yet.

Of course, I think we all know that AI is good at doing grunt work and it is up to us to check details. So AI is already useful for the broad-brush, first sweep of mapping out a holiday.

But AI won’t then back itself by booking it all. (That will be the game changer.)

So, at this stage, AI, for me, is still a basic tool of research – not a replacement for an experienced and knowledgeable travel agent.

Leyanne Baillie gen X

Although my generation is confident when it comes to using tech (even if we’re not digital natives), I think AI programs would be more effort than they’re worth.

I know it could be a time-saver in terms of journey-planning brainstorming and getting a rough guide of options, but I’d still want to tailor my itinerary to cater to my personal taste.

I don’t think I’m ready to hand over the reins completely to artificial intelligence just yet.

Jessie Stoelwinder — millennial

I love a good travel hack, and that’s how I have been approaching my use of AI.

Anything that makes life a little easier and frees me up to investigate the fun stuff — where to eat, hike, shop, people-watch etc. — and I am on board.

I’ve used ChatGPT to quickly aggregate travel data for personal trips to assist with admin, logistics and practicalities, which I will then cross-check and verify to make sure the information works for me.

Recommendations, however? Word of mouth and insider intel from a human being will always win, in my opinion.

Megan French — gen Z

I would be open to the idea of utilising AI when planning my travels but I’d take everything it recommends with a grain of salt while still doing my own thorough research.

I think it’s great for foundational information-based planning early in trip preparations, such as “what holidays are on in India during July and how is best to navigate them?”

But when it comes to booking flights and accommodation, I’d go nowhere near AI … yet.



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Why Budapest is Europe’s most underrated city: travel guide.

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My hostel was minutes from the Danube, on the Pest side and just a perfect location. A little bit further from the city but accessible via tram, scooter, or bike and still within walking distance of great restaurants, bars and sights.

Plus, if you, like me, crave some Asian cuisine while wandering the cities of Europe, Budapest has a surprisingly incredible selection of small restaurants to try. My personal favourite was PHỞ 18 Budapest — you can thank me later.

What to do in Budapest.

Budapest is so large, and with so much to do, it’d take a tightly packed itinerary to get it all done in a few days. But here are a few of my non-negotiables.

Firstly, walk around. In my humble opinion, there is no better way to get a feel for a new city than by roaming the streets and taking in the sights on foot. Especially in Budapest, a city that can capture your imagination at every corner. Crossing the Liberty Bridge and seeing both sides of the city unfold before your eyes is an experience not easily forgotten. 

On my first morning, I walked up to Buda Castle and explored the grounds and museums before hiring a scooter and making my way back to my accommodation.

Image: Supplied.





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Travel experts share their once-in-a-lifetime itineraries for hidden Ireland

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“My first tour was in 1998, right after the Omagh bomb. So it was quite the strange time,” says Ginger Aarons. 

From the peace process and the Celtic Tiger to the advent of a multicultural society, the travel expert and genealogy enthusiast has seen huge changes across the island of Ireland in the 27 years she’s been bringing clients here on tailor-made travel trips.

And she’s not alone. Her fellow bespoke tour operators, Kate McCabe and Max Sussman of Bog & Thunder and Rachel Gaffney of Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland, have also been blazing a trail from the US to highlight a 21st-century vision of Ireland to their clients, and each have their own take on what that is. 

Their tours are high-end, once-in-a-lifetime experiences, but all are agreed on one thing: luxury is not necessarily about helicopters, champagne, and five stars. 

It’s to be found in those magical moments of connection, a hidden Ireland that’s there, waiting to be revealed, if we just give it the opportunity to do so.

Rachel Gaffney at the Port of Cork

Rachel Gaffney

Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland

“Take your time. Otherwise you’re just doing a drive-by,” is what Cork woman Rachel Gaffney advises the Americans for whom she organises bespoke tours of Ireland. 

“Allow Ireland to unveil herself, because she will,” says the Dallas-based slow-travel advocate.

Gaffney moved to the States in 1996, having worked in the Irish and UK hotel industry for decades.

She set up her own travel company, Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland, when she moved Stateside, and every year spends 12 weeks in Ireland doing on-the-ground research of what’s new and what will chime with her clientele, who, typically, “have a home in Aspen, and a home in Palm Beach, a home here, and a home there”.

“They have pretty high standards,” she says. “They may say they’re low maintenance, and in fairness, most are. Just get it right for them, that’s all they want.

“I have a plan, but I don’t have a plan,” she says of her annual deep dive into what Ireland has to offer. 

Coupled with her natural curiosity and an instinct for the new and unusual, what unfolds for her clients is an eclectic mix. 

While super-luxe spots invariably feature — “Ashford and Ballyfin, those are the no-brainers. I send people there because I want them to experience that” — if a place can meet her exacting standards, it stands a chance of making the cut. 

“I love Perryville House in Kinsale. Their breakfast is one of the most gorgeous in Ireland.”

Rachel Gaffney on Inis Mór

Gaffney has an eye for perfection, and the custom luggage racks in Perryville’s rooms — no bending down required — merit special mention: “the ergonomics of how you travel was thought about”.

“I’m matchmaking,” Gaffney says of her role as curator of a bespoke offering. “I’m putting clients in the right place for them.” 

The “truly spectacular” Dunluce Lodge in Co Antrim, is one of her recent discoveries, and only opened its doors this spring.

“When I visited, they were working on a putting green, which will be the largest putting green in Ireland. It’s for the residents. So, in the evening, you can sit overlooking the sand dunes and the fourth fairway of Royal Portrush and the ocean. Then, if you like, you can walk outside and practice your putting by a fire pit.”

Gaffney likes to immerse herself in a place. “I sit in bars and restaurants by myself. I talk to people. I want to see what’s happening in the area. I want to get a feel for the area, a sense of it. 

I want to be able to tell my clients, ‘when you drive out the driveway and take a left, you can continue that coast road or you can take a fork…’”

She rates Clare, calling the county one that’s “really starting to punch above its weight”, and namechecks Doolin’s Fiddle and Bow — “the natural colours, the simplicity, the bare floorboards; they brought the outside in” — and the Michelin-starred Homestead Cottage: “It’s literally in the middle of nowhere.”

“I’m finding some of the best hospitality is in the most inaccessible places. If I send people, they’ll throw the red carpet out for them. They’ll just be so delighted to have you.” Cork is close to her heart too, with one of her “most favourite hotels”, Clonakilty’s Dunmore House, sparking memories of a past trip. Gaffney had spontaneously decided to organise a morning yoga class for a group of ladies on an adjacent tiny beach and the hotel staff stepped up to elevate their experience.

After the yoga “what happened was these women, who were in their 60s and 70s, forgot themselves. They were running up and down to the water, making sandcastles. The head gardener had made a fresh-flower crown for the creator of the best one,” Gaffney recalls.

“The hotel staff brought us blankets and a picnic of strawberries and fruit from their garden and cheeses from the English Market. We were still there at four in the afternoon. It was the best day ever. Then the ladies went back to the hotel and had this fabulous dinner and sang songs in the bar. Just magical. That’s luxury.”

Rachel loves:

  • Wilder Townhouse, Adelaide Rd, D2: “It was a mansion for retired school governesses. The history in that building is so interesting.”
  • Vandeleur Walled Gardens, Kilrush, Co Clare: “Spectacular.”
  • Barrow House in Tralee: “A white Georgian manor house overlooking Barrow Bay.
  • Ekotree knitwear, Doolin, Co Clare: “The finest cashmere gloves I’ve ever seen.”
Bog & Thunder’s Kate McCabe and Max Sussman.

Kate McCabe and Max Sussman

Bog & Thunder

Dubliner Maeve Brennan, a staff writer for The New Yorker in the last century, had no time for cliches about her homeland, decrying “the bog and thunder variety of stuff that has been foisted abroad in the name of Ireland”. 

Her adjectives provided the perfect name for McCabe and Sussman’s bespoke travel business, which has an eco-tourism and sustainability focus and operates out of the duo’s Ann Arbor, Michigan base.

“We’re trying to frame Ireland as the modern country that it is. We love the Aran sweaters and we love sheep and we love pubs and all that kind of stuff. But Ireland is so much more than that,” McCabe says.

“We do three types of travel,” explains Sussman, who’s also a chef. “Private itineraries for people who want to plan their own trip; group trips, and retreats.”

The retreats are “a way for us to get more deeply embedded in a specific place,” McCabe says.

For their third annual writing retreat this year, they are staying in Within The Village, “a really special place” in Roundstone, Co Galway.

Last year, Max cooked for the group, and they enjoyed a pop-up by Westmeath-based chef Rose Greene of sustainable fermented food business 4Hands Studio. 

Bespoke food tours and curated culinary experiences are a large part of the Bog & Thunder offering.

Two decades ago, New Jersey native McCabe, whose dad is from Tullamore and has connections to Belfast through her maternal grandmother, was “doing political work around some of the outstanding issues of the peace process” as a college student, and it led to her travelling to Derry and Belfast.

After graduation, she continued to visit Ireland and Max, whom she’d met in college, came too. 

“We don’t do typical food tours,” explains McCabe, whose background is in environmental policy and sustainability. “When we design our tours, we usually have a theme or a narrative that we’re telling throughout the tour. We’re doing a tour in August with Youngmi Mayer, a Korean-American comedian whose paternal grandmother is from Cork. She just published a memoir where she talks about being Irish and not really being accepted for being Irish because she looks Korean. She’s never been to Ireland before.”

Everyone will “eat amazing food”, McCabe says, and there will be talks on “Irish history and colonisation and immigration and emigration, to ground people in the themes that Youngmi talks about in her book.”

Bog & Thunder lead a group around The Burren

The duo like the value of involving people “who aren’t necessarily guides” in the tour conversations and are also passionate about “trying to translate to people, whether they come on guided trips or do our private itineraries, how much of a multicultural nation Ireland is”.

They feel hidden Ireland still exists, but like Gaffney, emphasise the need to venture off the beaten track to find it. “Give yourself a little bit of time and freedom to explore a little bit. Every time we’re in Ireland, we meet new people who are doing incredible things.”

Once again, the Antrim coast comes up. “One of our favourite bakeries in Ireland is Ursa Minor in Ballycastle.” Lir, a seafood restaurant in Coleraine, also gets the nod. “We like to send people there,” McCabe says.

“It’s a very beautiful spot, they’re very into sustainable seafood, and sustainability is a pillar of our organisation. We like to connect travellers with people that are really walking the walk and actually translating their ethics into the food that they serve in their restaurants.”

Another sustainable seafood spot they love is Goldie, on Oliver Plunkett Street in Cork, while the city’s Izz Café is cited as a “great example of an immigrant couple who moved to Ireland and started a food business”.

Baltimore’s two Michelin star Dede, which they acknowledge as likely to be already on people’s radar, is “one of the best restaurants in Ireland”.

One of the things that makes it really special, in addition to the food, is how warm and hospitable it is,” McCabe says.

“And I’d be remiss if we were to talk about Co Cork and not mention our dear friend, Sally Barnes, the only fish smoker on the island of Ireland to work exclusively with wild fish, which is something that we consider really important.”

Since 2022, McCabe and Sussman have hosted a podcast, Dyed Green, exploring Irish food and culture, and the duo have “a medium-term goal of moving to Ireland. We’d love to own and operate a B&B with a food component one day.”

Bog & Thunder love:

  • Native Guest House, Ballydehob: We just organised a private writing retreat for some clients there.
  • Seaweed & Saltwater camper vans: For travellers who really want to get off the beaten path and travel sustainably, they have a small fleet of eco-friendly luxury Mercedes Sprinter camper vans. They’re both off-grid AND high end, and you can shower and enjoy a good night’s sleep on quality sheets.
  • Dingle Sea Salt: A project run by Tom Leach & Moe McKeown, two surfer-scientists who hand harvest and use polytunnels to evaporate all of their salt.
Ginger Aarons at Torr Head

Ginger Aarons

Time Travel Tours

Yes, it’s her real name, Ginger Aarons tells me over Zoom from Portland, mentioning the Duke of Abercorn is also a sceptic: “he can’t imagine anybody would ever christen me Ginger”. 

That impressive namedrop is a clue as to one of Aarons’s areas of expertise, genealogy; the flame-haired entrepreneur is also a master gardener, and combines these passions in her bespoke travel business, Time Travel Tours.

She’s been bringing clients to Ireland to find their lineage since 1998, and can trace her own paternal Maguire ancestry back to the Flight of the Earls in the 17th century. 

On her mother’s side, Aarons’s Dublin-born ancestor arrived “in Virginia about 1710”, meaning her US ancestors predate the founding of the United States. “My forefathers fought in the Revolutionary War.”

While her own expertise is considerable — “Ashford Castle uses me for their genealogy” — she recruits experts, such as historic garden consultant and plantsman Neil Porteous and architectural historian Robert O’Byrne, “so that everybody gets a well-rounded look at Ireland and at the history”.

“Taking people around to the gardens in Ireland is fantastic, and I have so much support — at Mount Stewart, Lady Rose came in and they gave us a Champagne welcome. I have great people on the ground.”

Her genealogy tours have a maximum of 12 participants. While they research in libraries and pore over records in great houses, her clients also frequently find themselves in graveyards in search of an ancestor’s resting place, with everyone helping each other in their quest. She has long worked with Historic Houses of Ireland but a new venture will see her promoting education around them and giving “the Irish people more reason to go to these houses, whether it’s for a concert or a country weekend”.

Ginger Aarons in Armagh

Also in the works is an associated educational film, and a book “Dogs of Historic Houses, which is going to be from the dog’s point of view”.

Aarons believes that hidden Ireland is to be found in these historic houses, some of which have new owners who are bringing new life to these “hidden gems”, as they welcome paying guests for the first time and find inventive ways of making their properties generate income.

Over the course of a fortnight, Aarons’s garden tour clients often see three gardens a day, but the pace is never rushed, and food is always an integral part of the tailor-made experience.

“We do a salvia class at Jimmy Blake’s and then go to Russborough House for lunch and a history tour. We’ll meet the Royal Horticultural Society of Ireland volunteers who look after the walled garden at Russborough, and then go to June Blake’s [near Blessington] for afternoon tea.”

This September, Aarons’s garden enthusiasts will be enjoying cookery lessons from Paul Flynn at Dungarvan’s The Tannery, another “hidden gem”, and stopping off at Manning’s Food Emporium, near Ballylickey in Cork.

“I’ve been going there for 25 years. We’ve had little kids come in and do their music and dancing. Then we’d have our picnic lunch and go to Bantry House for the history and the gardens. We’ll be doing that again.”

A new trend Aarons has noticed is more people visting Ireland for sport.

“They want to see games, even if it’s a local hurling or soccer game. People are very interested in what Irish people do in daily life.”

Ginger loves:

  • Enniscoe House, Co Mayo. “You can do a lot of walking and fishing, enjoy a glass of whiskey by the fire, and they allow dogs stay.”
  • Dunraven Arms Hotel, Adare, Co Limerick: “A great little hidden gem.”
  • virtualtreasury.ie: A virtual reconstruction of the Record Treasury and its records which were lost in a fire in 1922. “You can research your ancestry, and look up wills and all kinds of letters on there.”



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