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Hiking, biking, and sea kayaking await on this Down East adventure

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This story was originally published in August 2023.

When our friends, Susan and Ken Gordon, invited my wife, Nancy, and I to join them and several other frequent outdoor companions for a multi-day adventure vacation in Down East Maine and on Campobello Island in New Brunswick, an affirmative answer was easy. The chance to share hiking, biking, and sea kayaking escapades with them was something we didn’t want to miss.

The plan was to camp at Herring Cove Provincial Park on Campobello Island. The campground would be a base camp for a variety of stimulating day trips. Our previous experience on Campobello Island was limited to a tour of the Roosevelt Cottage exactly 50 years ago this summer, so this opportunity was particularly appealing. Typical of the entire summer, there was a chance of heavy rain in the forecast.

After setting up camp, we biked and hiked campground trails on the first day. A deluge of rain followed for the entire night and into the next morning. Tent leaks were a problem for a few but nothing that wasn’t manageable.

Once the skies cleared, four of us decided to hike the trails on West Quoddy Head in Lubec. Our choice was driven by two factors. First, the trail along the cliffs provides some of the most spectacular hiking in Maine. Second, Ken and I wanted to study the strong currents that run along the shore in that area. Heavy fog and turbulent seas there had caused us to abort a Bold Coast sea kayak expedition the previous year. Since the tides would be almost identical, we wanted to determine the cause of the rough conditions.

The trail system begins at the parking area adjacent to West Quoddy Head Light in Quoddy Head State Park. Our hiking choice was simple as the spectacular Coastal Trail follows along the edge of the escarpment for over a mile.

Trekkers begin their return on the West Quoddy Head Coastal Trail. Credit: Courtesy of Ron Chase

No surprise, we encountered wet trail conditions as a result of the rain storm. In some sections, shallow rivulets flowed down the trail while puddles of water saturated the path in other areas. A rare visual benefit, streams of water could be observed gushing out of the walls of the cliffs.

We carefully hiked along the rim attempting to avoid slippery spots while frequently stopping to embrace the wonderful views. Landmarks such as Gulliver’s Hole, High Ledge, and Green Point were passed as we progressed southwesterly. Our trek concluded after reaching Carrying Place Cove where the cliffs ended. While relaxing and studying the currents, we were joined by another member of our group on the return trip.

Ken and I concluded the turbulence we experienced kayaking the previous year was likely the result of a strong incoming tide. At the time, extremely dense fog prevented a wider perspective that would have made the cause more apparent.

After completing the hike, we stopped to visit the 165-year-old lighthouse. Maine’s easternmost lighthouse, the historic candy-striped structure is still an important navigation aid.

When we returned to Campobello, Ken and I decided to ride the Roosevelt Park Carriage Roads. The gravel roads travel through mixed hardwood and conifer forests and facilitate trips to salt water coves, sand and gravel beaches, and scenic cliffs that populate the southeastern end of the island.

The trails are similar in character to the Carriage Roads of Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island. However, cars are allowed on some of the Roosevelt Trails. We used mountain bikes for our ride but hybrids would work fine.

Starting from Route 774, we rode south on Cranberry Point Drive to that impressive overlook. Leaving the point, we traversed Fox Hill Drive to Herring Cove. Shortly beyond, a spur trail led to scenic Con Robinson’s Point. We continued our exploration visiting Raccoon Beach, Lower Duck Pond, and Liberty Point.

Credit: Courtesy of Ron Chase

Situated on the southeastern tip of Campobello, Liberty Point is a majestic location with sheer cliffs and a gigantic boulder just off shore called Sugar Loaf Rock. From a viewing platform, we could see the towering red cliffs of Grand Manan Island across the Bay of Fundy.

More adventures are anticipated in the coming days. Sea kayaking along the east side of Campobello is next on the agenda.

My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” narrates eight Maine bike rides and nine popular hikes.



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Don’t forget to look up Sometimes

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Day 89-13 Miles today from Seth Warner shelter to stealth site,2,900 Feet Up, 2,800 Feet down, 1622 AT Mile Marker (MM)

Sage Advice

One of the first text messages I got from Knockerz after we parted ways a few days ago was a reminder to me. After hundreds of miles hiking she knew the importance of the statement.

“Don’t forget to look up sometimes”. She wrote me.

It was such a profound statement in more than one way. When we hike we have to constantly be scanning the ground in front of us for our next footstep or we risk a hike ending injury. But you have to occasionally take the time to look up and enjoy the scenery.

This statement can also be applied to life in general especially today. After days of hiking alone without Knockerz it has been difficult to continue on. The fun is just not in my hike right now. Even during the most difficult days of our hike we shared in the experience.

Never Quit on a Bad Day

This is advice you hear when you attempt a feat such as a thru hike. Today is testing me as a bad day. This section of trail is hard to continue to stay motivated.

Yesterday was my longest hike yet at 19 miles and 4,700 feet elevation gain. I actually felt fine physically this morning with the normal aches and pains.

I started at 7:00 a.m. today because I really did not intend to push it hard today. I’ll be stealth camping somewhere. My goal now is to make it too Manchester which I believe is about 50 miles that would put me at 3 more days in the woods.

I think I’ve already had 3 days in the woods. It means I have to preserve my battery so I don’t get any audiobooks, music, or cell phone usage other than coming out of airplane mode for a few text messages or to check the weather periodically.

Jungle Time

The trail has been so overgrown that I can hardly see the trail sometimes. I think that is proof that this section of trail hasn’t been traveled much. This is just not a fun hike for day hikers to bother with.

The trail is a jungle in some spots. When I got to the last shelter there was no evidence of which way the trail went. It was covered over in so much undergrowth.

I am seeing a lot of the thick black mud but so far I’ve been able to manage to avoid going directly through the mud puddles.

Excess Clothing

I wear clothing to cover 95% on my skin. The only thing I have exposed is my neck in the front my face and my hands. This was a complete nightmare during the hundred plus degree heat but it’s probably kept me from having ticks on my body.

It’s also an advantage now because this hell hole of swampy muddy Vermont is a breeding ground for these flies which will bite on any exposed skin.

I now have to keep moving where I’m currently at. If I stop moving, or even slow down, I get swarmed by mosquitoes. This is really rough.

1,000 Steps

The final drop down to Route 9 was at a slope of over 1500 feet per mile. Another knee breaking drop.

Of course that can only mean one thing. I will soon have a steep climb to get out of this gap.

The descent down to the gap was one of the worst descents I’ve seen on trail. A thousand rock steps.

Oh S***

It was a climb up to Split Rock and then a further climb up but not as bad as the climb down into the gap.

I passed a shelter and continued to climb to Maple Hill. Maple Hill had some power lines where I could see way down to Bennington in the valley below. I could also see a nasty rainstorm heading this way.

My first guess was to go back a half a mile to the shelter but that would add a mile to my trip so I decided to carry on and see what the storm will bring.

Just as I entered the Glastonbury wilderness

It poured down rain. At first it was refreshing after hiking in the sweat and bugs all day. Then it got a little chilly.

This Day was a Bad Day

After the rain ended there were now a lot of mud puddles to slog through. That slowed me down. I hiked on now soaking wet.

When I heard more rumbling I looked at the weather forecast that called for more very heavy rain. Another storm cell was coming.

I knew I’d be sleeping in my tent tonight and I did not want to set up in the rain. So the first stealth site I found I called home for the night. I was a little disappointed when I looked and I had only done 13 miles.

Yeah it was a s*** day. Never been eaten by so many damn bugs. Heavy rain caused everything to get wet. A hellacious drop down into Route 9 Gap on a thousand knee jarring rock steps. Heavy rain turned the trail into Vermud.

As I sat in my tent with all my wet stinky clothing hanging on lines inside I knew I needed a break. And then finally I got the break I needed. Christine with Draghose shuttling help me with some logistics. She was not interested in selling me a shuttle ride but rather she was genuinely interested in helping me. I now have a plan that will get me through the next several days and I feel re-energized.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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How to Fall Asleep Earlier, According to Ancient Science

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Do you regularly wake up feeling groggy and like you didn’t sleep enough? In our fast-paced existence, adequate sleep can feel not only elusive but like an act of radical self-care.

Many of us are accustomed to an emphasis on how long we sleep, with the recommended amount being 7 to 9 hours. But a 5,000-year-old system of medicine, known as Ayurveda, asserts that when you sleep is equally critical.

The Natural Elements You Embody Inform Your Optimal Sleep Time

Originating in India, Ayurveda emphasizes understanding your body’s rhythms in pursuit of a more harmonious existence.

According to this ancient belief system, your body has a unique biological clock influenced by many things, including the five natural elements—space, air, earth, fire, and water. These elements come together in varying proportions to create different constitutional types, also known as doshas.

How to Figure Out Which Elements Power Your Bodily Functions

There are three doshas: vata, pitta, kapha. Each of the three doshas refers to a different combination of the five natural elements. For example, someone with a vata dosha is primarily influenced by space and air. Pitta people contain more fire and water, and those who are kapha are born with a mix of water and earth. (You can take this quiz to figure out which dosha you are.)

Your predominant dosha—whether vata, pitta, or kapha—affects everything from your personality to your sleep tendencies. There is also the concept of doshic hours, which assigns a predominant dosha to each hour of the day. Understanding which dosha is prominent at a particular hour allows you to optimize your well-being, from your morning routine to your nighttime rituals.

Depending on which doshic hour it is, your digestion may be stronger or weaker; you may have a greater (or lesser) capacity to tackle challenging tasks, your energy levels may peak or drop, you might see a difference in your creativity levels, and the quality of sleep can be affected.

This Is the Best Time to Sleep, According to Ancient Wisdom

According to Ayurvedic principles, the hours between 10 p.m. and 2 a.m. are considered crucial for physiological rejuvenation and an ideal time for the body to be at sleep, and it is now proven by science. These hours are associated with the pitta dosha, whose inherent fire (a.k.a ‘heating’) quality aids in the metabolic processes necessary for detoxification, deep cellular repair, and rejuvenation during sleep.

“It’s best to be asleep around 10 p.m. so that pitta activity can be directed inward for detoxification and cellular digestion and metabolism,” explains Dr. Sheila Patel, a board-certified family physician and Ayurvedic expert. “If not, we miss prime healing time.”

Staying Up Too Late Reduces Sleep Quality

For example, sleeping between 10 p.m. and 6 a.m. is considered more rejuvenating and vital to cellular repair and renewal than sleeping from 1 a.m. to 9 a.m. Even though the total hours of sleep are the same, the benefits are not.

Staying up late disrupts these vital processes and causes our bodies to rejuvenate inadequately, leading to increased anxiety, stress, and digestive issues.

How to Fall Asleep Early (Well, Earlier)

Falling asleep earlier than usual can seem like an almost impossible goal, especially if that means breaking a habit of late-night screen time, not consuming caffeine late in the day, or maneuvering around responsibilities that require you to stay up late, whether you’re a new parent or work the late shift. Ayurveda respects that. Everyone’s situation is unique.

However, if you would like to change the habit of staying up late, you can. “If our body is used to falling asleep late, it is because we have trained it to do so,” says Patel. “We need to retrain it.”

Patel suggests going to bed 15 to 30 minutes earlier every one to two weeks. Or you can take it more slowly if you like. The most effective approach to changing your sleep schedule is a gradual one. The body will adjust.

Try These Tips to Get to Bed Earlier

It becomes even easier to adhere to your new routine once you begin to notice a difference in your mood and mental state. Begin by establishing a relaxing evening routine, such as removing electronics from your bedroom and trying some gentle stretching or yin yoga. Then, try moving your bedtime earlier by 15 minutes each week.

Be patient with yourself if it takes longer. You’ll find this makes the transition much more doable and long-lasting.

Sleeping Earlier Has Many Benefits

Most people find themselves more focused and less irritable during the day after just a few days of falling asleep earlier. By prioritizing an earlier bedtime and aligning with your biological rhythms, you unlock profound benefits. Even a small shift in your bedtime can unleash a cascade of these positive effects, including:

By aligning your sleep schedule with timeless Ayurvedic principles, you will discover more restorative sleep and a happier you.

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Ankle Pain, Thieving Birds, and Mild Falls: PCT Days 82 to 85

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Leaving the motel room where I’d rested the past 3 nights felt a little sad but I wanted to be moving again. I grabbed a sandwich for lunch and another for the road from a cute deli nearby too. This did mean I got to the trail a little late though, roughly 2:30. My stupid ankle was hurting again now and it made the walk fairly unpleasant. I got to Red’s Meadow where I’d heard they were serving ice cream but it was the evening now and it looked like they had closed down for the day. My mood already low and not wanting to pay for camping, I continued onward instead, forgetting that they also had a hot spring.

Clouds were pretty though.

I ended up finding a tiny tent site nearby Sotcher Lake and grumpily set up there. Lesson learned here; try not to spiral. My ankle hurting led me to skip past Red’s Meadow which meant I missed the hot spring there.

Day 83: Uneventful Days

The night was cold and I slept in then had a slow morning. My pack was heavy and I was moving slowly which, combined with getting out of camp late, limited my miles today; I barely did 12. I ate lunch at a campground and had to scare away an particularly industrious Stellar’s Jay who kept trying to get to my food. I respect the effort but this food is for me, little bird.

The thief’s mugshot.

The rest of the walk was largely uneventful. The entire day was one long but thankfully gradual uphill and the views of the valley and surrounding mountains only got better. I continued to churn through audiobooks as they were kinda the only thing keeping me going. I ended up making camp on the side of a mountain with a gorgeous valley below. It was surprisingly well-sheltered for being up on a ridge. I ate dinner staring out at the snowcapped peaks and the trees and lakes below.

The lakes on the other side of the canyon looked very inviting.

Day 84: Donohue Pass; Into Yosemite!

The night was again cold and I was glad my habit of stuffing my water filter into my sleeping bag had stayed so consistent this trail. For the curious, our water filters are vulnerable to freezing. If the water inside turns to ice it will expand and compromise the filter in a way that is almost undetectable. Usually this is only a risk at night thankfully so simply going to sleep with it usually means it will stay warm.

A rather shy marmot.

The morning was fairly unremarkable as I walked to the base of Donohue Pass, save for Thousand Island Lake which was absolutely gorgeous. I met a hiker called Trooper there before taking my lunch and nap. Afterwards I began the climb and while going up I began to hear distant thunder. It remained distant thankfully which was a very good thing as I was well above the tree line and with limited places to take cover. The numerous marmots showed no fear of course; must be nice having a hole you can retreat to. Thankfully there was almost no snow on the ground so although the ascent was steep it did go quickly.

Thousand Island Lake is crazy pretty, I gotta come back here at some point.

As I reached highest point and crossed into Yosemite National Park snow flurries started and the thunder suddenly got louder. I could see it was raining a few miles ahead in the valley below. Wanting to get below the tree line in case the storm turned my way, I hustled downhill, the fast speed also helping to keep me warm on a day that had turned quite cold. The snow intermittently fell all the way down though it was thankfully mild. There were many JMT hikers around again too.

The other side of the pass looked quite a bit stormier.

While descending on a gravely switchback, my shoes suddenly lost traction on the rocks underneath me and before I knew it I was falling. Falling backwards thankfully, not forwards or to the side down the mountain. I cried out in expectation of the painful impact of my butt on the earth but to my surprise it never came. Sitting there I realized my pack had cushioned the fall almost completely, turning a bone-jarring jolt into just a bit of a jerk to my hips. Thank you, backpack.

I camped that evening in Lyell Canyon, enjoying the gorgeous meadows surrounded by the sharp canyon walls. Remembering my fall, I inspected my shoes and discovered that the tread was seriously worn down. The shoes it seemed were near their end of life and I suddenly realized that they were probably contributing to my ankle irritation now that they could no longer provide sufficient support. Clearly new shoes were in my future.

Day 85: Burgers in Tuolumne Meadows

The day began with a nice, gradual downhill through beautiful meadows. I passed many JMT hikers but started to see more and more day hikers as I approached Tuolumne Meadows. Suddenly, the trail joined with a well-paved road and I abruptly re-entered civilization. Cars were passing, tourists were walking about goggling at the sights, and at least two groups of deer were practically posing for photos.

I reached Tuolumne Meadows Grill right at lunch time. The hunger was in full swing and I consumes two burgers, fries, a salad, and a soda while my electronics charged. It was reasonably priced too, a surprise for such a touristy area!

The mountain vibes are different in Yosemite.

I headed out around 3, quickly running into Myles and Swing Set who I’d met in Mammoth. We hiked together past multiple waterfalls and vast views. Yosemite felt noticeably different than the previous stretch of the Sierra; the mountains felt lower but rocker somehow. I camped that night at Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp, quite close to the base of Tuolumne Falls. I was still full from those lunch burgers too so slept early.

Trail Stats:

Catholes: 28

Stops to filter water: 117

Resupplies: 14

Hitches: 15

Zeros: 15

Crys on trail: 12

Blisters: 12

Gear repairs: 19

Miles Skipped: 212.3

Significant Water Crossings: 75

Falls: 1

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