Solo Travellers
‘Delicious seafood served with charm and ice-cold white wine’: readers’ favourite restaurants in France | France holidays
Passionate for fresh seafood, Nice
Far away from the tourist traps of the old town, tiny seafood restaurant Coquillages Bouchet on Rue Rusca is a relative newcomer in Nice. Tucked away on a sidestreet near the port, the menu is short and the atmosphere relaxed. The young owners, Nicolas and Hugo, are best friends and their passion for fresh seafood, especially sea urchins and oysters, simply radiates. If you’re after fancy, go to one of the exclusive beach clubs dotted along the coastline. If you want fresh, vibrant and delicious platters of seafood served with charm and glasses of ice-cold white wine, come here.
Melanie Clarkson
The perfect country bistro in Beaujolais
Joséphine à Table, in the pretty village of Saint-Amour-Bellevue in Beaujolais, is the little country bistro you were always hoping to find in rural France. Hearty portions of rustic cuisine paysanne are the order of the day, or you could push the boat out and splurge on a sophisticated chicken in vin jaune sauce with morels. And don’t forget to wash your meal down with a bottle of the local wine – there are plenty of cuvées to choose from on the extensive list, all priced unbelievably reasonably. A set main course and dessert is €24. Santé.
Natasha Hughes
Ripaille (on Instagram) – a bistro on Rue de Lorette just north of the Old Port – was the unexpected gem of our time in Marseille. Tucked down a street awash with the city’s characteristic street art, diners sit at snug Formica tables drinking delicious natural wines. There’s a soft glow and the hum of a local crowd having a good time. We had everything off the chalkboard menu between four. Highlights were radicchio with stilton, pear and hazelnuts; scallops in smoked lemon; grilled dorade with almond sauce; and desserts generous on the cream. The staff were brilliant: cool yet attentive.
Charlotte
Pork sausage and pike parfait, Paris
A visit to Les Mauvais Garçons off the Rue de Rivoli in the Marais would be worth it for the name, which it shares with the street it’s on, but more so for its Lyonnais fare. After regaling ourselves with pork sausage in a sublime brioche, we moved on to the more serious work of enjoying the pike dumpling in an exotic lobster bisque. You can complete your trip down south by indulging in a fondant au chocolat that would make Baudelaire himself feel decadent. The excellent service belies the restaurant’s name.
Patricia
Amazing value in Brittany
Port-Haliguen is a quaint fishing village close to the beautiful town of Quiberon in Brittany. Here we found La Base, a bistro overlooking the harbour. The chef lets ingredients shine with minimal fuss, such as the freshest sardines to start, then a perfectly cooked medium rare côte de boeuf for two, while the chocolate mousse is velvety smooth and comforting. The impressive house red is served at only €4 a glass and bottles at about €20. The idyllic setting, precise cooking and amazing value made this a real highlight of the holiday.
James Allison
Lobster ravioli in the Dordogne
La Récréation in the beautiful Lot department village of Les Arques just south of the Dordogne is a fabulous restaurant. It is housed in what was once the village school and has plenty of outdoor seating for the summer months. The food is sublime and simply never disappoints. Lobster ravioli in a coral sauce and croustillants de Saint-Jacques are delicious signature dishes, but the experienced chefs are innovative and the menu changes frequently. The village itself is associated with the renowned 20th-century sculptor and painter Ossip Zadkine and attracts artists. La Récréation is a very popular restaurant, which must be booked in advance and is wholly deserving of its reputation locally.
Lesley
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Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers’ tips homepage
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Galette it be, Florac, Cévennes national park
Au Pêcher Mignon (on Facebook) in Florac, near the Ardèche, is a real gem. The owner was so welcoming and a great host. They were very accommodating when our group of eight arrived for lunch and were happy to shuffle tables so we could all sit together. Our children enjoyed the cheese and beef galettes with a lovely salad. The adults enjoyed a split galette, which included wild mushroom, spices and cheese on one half and garlic, aubergine and cheese on the other – it tasted fantastic. All were homemade and used local ingredients. A very tasty cider accompanied the food. The homemade cheesecake was just delicious. All at a reasonable price.
Stefanie Ashall
Pick your poissonnerie, Dinard, Brittany
Le Pic à Bulot (The Whelk Pick) in Dinard is the perfect place for a seafood platter. In the Saint-Énogat neighbourhood, the restaurant serves fresh fish and seafood from its own poissonnerie next door. We visited in early April, sat on the terrace, well wrapped up, and shared an iced platter of prawns, langoustines, whelks, oysters and, in a blast from the past for me, winkles. All helped on by a bottle of head-turning Pouilly-Fuissé (it was our wedding anniversary). It’s definitely worth a detour if you’re visiting Mont Saint-Michel or arrived at Saint-Malo, and is reasonable with set menus starting at €15.
Mick George
Market cooking with a heart, Bordeaux
In the gritty Capucins market quarter, Au Bistrot delivers straightforward French comfort food for hungry market shoppers. Chef Jacques In’On cooks whatever looks best on the stalls that morning in a small open kitchen, while the host, François Pervillé, pours affordable bottles from an all‑Bordeaux list. My lunch: slow beef bourguignon, deep and savoury, plus a creamy garlic‑laced potato dauphinoise. The room is tiled and the staff are relaxed and quietly efficient. Menus change daily but rarely break €25. Decent wine by the glass costs €4. Book ahead or queue. Outdoor tables spill on to pavement when the sun shines.
Pamela
Winning tip: A humble gem in Boulogne, Pas-de-Calais
Nestled in the industrial fishing port in Boulogne-sur-Mer is Le Chatillon. Business hours of 5.30am-4.30pm make it a staple breakfast location for fishers. Nevertheless, the average family on an average budget can eat well at this humble gem of a place, served by friendly, efficient and professional staff, and that feels like the definition of hospitality. The boulonnaise plate – smoked salmon, fillet of herring, smoked mackerel and toast – is a great place to start, and fillet of boneless turbot with triple cooked fries, while simple, was like nothing I’ve tasted before or since.
Ruth King
Solo Travellers
11 Best Flared Leggings for Travel Days, According to Our Editors
“What does everyone wear on the plane?” a colleague recently asked in the office. Before I had a chance to recommend our best leggings for flight days, she continued: “Don’t say leggings. They’re comfy, but personally I think they’re too casual to wear outside the gym.” Such is the plight of the fashion-forward traveler. How does one balance feeling genuinely comfortable in an economy seat without dressing like they’re about to settle in for the night or got lost on the way to a HIIT class?
Flared leggings might be the answer. While skinny jeans and bodycon dresses have long been banished to the back of the closet, athleisure has only more recently embraced the joys of flowier fabrics. Look now and you’ll see stylish types opting for loose, stretchy flares everywhere from reformer Pilates class to brunch and airport lounges alike.
These newer, breezier cuts range from full-flowing palazzo pants to more sleek, compressive kick flares in fabrics ranging from stretchy spandex to ultra-soft cotton. They’re different enough from regular leggings to shake off any ‘gym gear’ associations, while retaining the stretchy waistbands and breathable fabrics that are a must-have for flight days. That means they’re equal parts versatile and comfortable, and a bit smarter than wearing loungewear out of the house.
Both the US and UK Traveler teams tested 11 of the best pairs of wide-leg leggings from top brands such as Lululemon, Adanola, Tala, and Alo Yoga. We hunted for buttery-soft, relaxed fits that looked flattering and felt comfortable on the move, with waistbands that wouldn’t roll down in a plane seat. The pairs below made the cut.
Solo Travellers
These 7 Sleeper Trains Are the Best Way to Travel Europe
When it comes to railway adventures, there are few things more exciting than falling asleep in one city and waking in the next, nudging up the blind to see what lies outside. Whether that reveals the golden haze of dawn or a moonlit night still holding on, the moment is one that’s always filled with magic.
For the last three years I’ve been journeying around Europe documenting the resurgence in sleeper trains, watching passengers drift back to the romance of the railways, eschewing budget flights and bullet trains for cosy couchettes and a slower mode of travel. For scenery, comfort, and camaraderie, these are the seven best night trains that Europe has to offer.
The Good Night Train: Brussels, Belgium to Berlin, Germany
Crowdfunded, and launched by a Belgian-Dutch collective named European Sleeper, The Good Night Train made its inaugural run from Brussels to Berlin in May 2023 and has since extended its route to Dresden and Prague, with a winter service to Venice. Set up by two night-train enthusiasts, European Sleeper offers a no-frills service whose hodgepodge of carriages date back to the 1950s—but no one on board is bothered, and raucous groups uncork wine and spread out slabs of pâté and cheese in what feels like a house party on wheels. With a mixture of sleeper and couchette compartments, the train departs Brussels three times a week, clattering out of the Belgian capital at 7.20 p.m. and pulling passengers through Flanders’ golden meadows and waterways that turn blush in the setting sun. Stopping at Amsterdam, where canals glimmer through the darkness, the train then runs smoothly through the night, with barely a jolt or jerk, giving passengers a chance to sleep deeply before a dawn arrival in Berlin.
The Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, a Belmond train: Paris, France to Portofino, Italy
With its iconic blue carriages and gold trimming, Belmond’s legendary train is a familiar sight to lovers of luxury travel, but this route is a well-kept secret, and the most scenic of them all. Running only once a year in summer, the VSOE departs Paris Austerlitz at 3 p.m., taking passengers to the pastel-colored town of Portofino. To the pop of a bottle of Ruinart champagne served with Petrossian caviar and blinis, the train thumps and clacks south of the French capital, picking up pace through villages and vineyards, warm air billowing through the wind-down windows. Over a black-tie dinner, guests are serenaded before moving piano-side for an all-night singalong, the bar only closing when the last passenger has left. Wisely, Belmond ensures that the train stables at midnight at Avignon, granting passengers five hours of undisturbed sleep in damask bedding until the train departs at dawn. Nudge up the blind and bite into warm croissants as you watch the sun rise over the Mediterranean, paddle boarders on the waters, and purple bougainvillea blooming by the tracks. The rest of the journey is nothing but sparkling ocean, beaches and palms, ending with two nights at the newly renovated Hotel Splendido in Portofino, overlooking the bay.
Santa Claus Express: Helsinki to Rovaniemi, Finland
A regular passenger train that runs year-round, the Santa Claus Express is Finland’s flagship service carrying riders from Helsinki into Rovaniemi, on the edge of the Arctic Circle. Best ridden in winter, this green and white double-decker beast departs just before 7.30 p.m. and takes 12 hours to wind north through forests of fir sagging under the weight of snow. Filled with young families and tourists keen to meet the big man at Santa Claus Village, the train features some of Europe’s most comfortable compartments with wide berths, underfloor heating, and toilets that fold down into showers. Pro tip: Hop on, dump bags, and dash to the tinsel-covered dining car for smoked reindeer stew and steaming bowls of meatballs and mash before it fills up with drinkers who won’t shift until dawn. From the windows passengers can watch as nativity scenes twinkle through the woods, foxes dart through empty car parks, and Finland’s freshwater lakes gleam like pools of black ink.
Solo Travellers
The Best Hotels in Bermuda for Every Kind of Island Vibe
Looking for an island getaway that’s dynamic and surprising? The best hotels in Bermuda are as varied as this North Atlantic island itself—from sprawling waterfront resorts and expansive golf courses, to greenery-nestled hideouts and historic estates. Unlike so many remote islands, Bermy doesn’t fit any one expectation; it’s as historic as it is verdant, as culinary-inclined as it is laid-back, and as tiny as it is awe-inspiring, from natural caves and pink-sand beaches to historic town centers (St. George and Hamilton) and quiet coves. The island’s bustling hotel scene, too, breaks the mold, with standout service to match the island’s upper-crust expectations (this British overseas territory’s per capita income is after all, among the highest in the world) and some of Bermuda’s best restaurants tucked inside them. With almost too many different vacation vibes to choose from—do you prefer a barefoot beach retreat that dates back centuries, or a grand dame in town with infinity pools to watch the mega-yachts roll by?—you’ll need to know where to start. Here are the properties across the island that pack the biggest punch, and keep us coming back time and again—these are the best hotels in Bermuda for every kind of island vibe.
Read our complete Bermuda travel guide here, which includes:
How we choose the best hotels in Bermuda
Every hotel review on this list has been written by a Condé Nast Traveler journalist who knows the destination and has visited that property. When choosing hotels, our editors consider properties across price points that offer an authentic and insider experience of a destination, keeping design, location, service, and sustainability credentials top of mind. This gallery has been updated with new information since its original publish date.
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