Restaurants & Food
Curry is a dish synonymous with Indian cuisine, but its history is complicated
When many of us think of Indian food, we think of curry.
That saucy and aromatic blend of spices, meat, and vegetables, often slow-cooked and served with rice and traditional naan bread or roti.
But, surprisingly, the word curry doesn’t originate from India.
Out of all the major pre-colonial languages spoken in India, none of them contain the word curry.
So, how did the dish become the poster child of authentic Indian cuisine?
Curry’s origin story
Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama reached Calicut on the Malabar Coast in 1498.
It was the beginning of the European and British presence in India that would eventually change the subcontinent in multiple ways, including shaping how we view Indian cuisine today.
“When you really dig deep, nobody really knows where [the word] curry comes from,” Lizzie Collingham, a researcher and author, tells ABC Radio National’s Every Bite.
Melbourne chef Helly Raichura cooks traditional regional Indian food. (ABC Radio National: Damien Peck )
Dr Collingham says the arrival of the Portuguese is the earliest record of the word curry being applied to Indian dishes.
There is dispute over where the word originated, with some scholars saying the etymological source could be the Tamil word “kari”. However most food historians agree its usage differs from that applied to the word by the Portuguese or the British.
With the arrival of European and British settlers in India, mainly around Goa and Cochin (now Kochi), the word curry became a way to refer to what Indian people were eating.
“Curry was a word the Portuguese used and then when the British picked it up … That’s what they called any dish that an Indian [person] ate,” Dr Collingham says.
But it wasn’t what Indian people called their food.
The colonisation of India’s cuisine
Over time Indian dishes, like many other traditional cuisines around the world, have evolved through colonisation and migration.
Many of the ingredients thought of as staples of Indian food, including curry, were historically introduced to the subcontinent, often by a colonial presence or changes within society.
Lizzie Collingham says the history of the word “curry” is complicated. (Penguin Books: Terry Roopnaraine)
For example, when the Portuguese arrived in Goa, India, they found that the Brahmins (priests who belonged to the highest Hindu hereditary class) didn’t eat onion and garlic for spiritual reasons.
“Brahmins wouldn’t have used onion and garlic because they were considered rather heating and dangerous foods for spiritual people,” Dr Collingham says.
“But the ruling classes would eat quite a lot of it, and meat, and put a lot of spices in.”
And chillies? They didn’t exist in India until the Portuguese settlers brought them to Goa and Cochin from the Americas.
In fact, it was black and long pepper that were used by Indian people during that period to add heat to their food.
The exchange of spices and regional ingredients was part of the reason why the Portuguese had a presence in India, Dr Collingham explains.
An ingredient synonymous with Indian food, chillies were actually introduced by European settlers from the Americas. (Supplied: Hardie Grant Publishing)
“Cardamoms grow in the hills in what’s now Kerala above Cochin. And you’ve got spices being brought in like nutmeg and cloves … So, all those spices would have been plentifully used in Indian food in that period,” she says.
And so in Goa, during this time, dishes that we now associate with the term “curry” began to emerge.
The British touch
Over a long period, the British presence in India increased. Eventually, it transitioned into political and military dominance over a large part of the country.
The British had Indian cooks working for them, and these workers would adapt their food to suit their customers.
“It was too spicy and too difficult for the English to digest … So they adapted their dishes to meet British tastes,” Dr Collingham says.
The British enjoyed these dishes and tried to replicate them back in Britain, but they found being authentic to the process was too labour-intensive.
Curry is symbolic of Indian food, but its affiliation is complicated for many. (ABC News: David Sier)
“They [the British] have this awful way of whatever they touch, they tend to homogenise,” she says.
And soon curry powder came to be. It was an entirely British invention.
“So they fry some onions, they dump in some curry powder, they dump in some meat and water, and they stew it … And that’s what the British call curry.“
True to home
Authentic Indian cuisine is based on seasonal produce specific to the regions. And it’s traditionally reflective of the classes Indian people belong to.
Chef Helly Raichura, who owns the Melbourne Indian restaurant, Enter via Laundry, says adapting to changing seasonal and historical environments is a feature of Indian cuisine.
Spices were a hot trade item for many years. (ABC: Damien Peck)
“Evolution is the only constant in Indian food because it has changed so much,” she says.
Ms Raichura avoids cooking stereotypical Indian cuisine in her restaurant.
Instead, she relies on the foundations of what was passed down through her family to cook what she believes is an authentic Indian regional menu.
“They [her ancestors] were very much connected to the land. They were very much connected to where they were and taking and using things that were seasonal for them,” she says.
Chef Helly Raichura says using in-season ingredients is key. (ABC: Damien Peck )
When Ms Raichura arrived in Australia, she was surprised to see seasonal produce wasn’t prioritised in the same way it is in India.
“It was very shocking to me to see very bad quality tomatoes that you can still buy in winter … I was like, just don’t sell it,” she says.
Ms Raichura believes India’s strong relationship with seasonal food enhances the eating experience.
“There are rituals and recipes at specific times of the year that are cherished,” she says.
“You’re not getting strawberries in winter, you’re waiting for it. There’s an anticipation.”
The intersection of curry and identity
We’ve often heard Italians baulk at the Westernised state of Italian cuisine — particularly pizza.
And the same thing can be said for many traditional cuisines around the world including Japanese, Thai and Mexican.
So it’s little wonder that many Indians have struggled with associating curry as a symbol of authentic Indian cuisine.
Helly Richura says Indian food is constantly evolving. (ABC Radio National: Damien Peck )
“I think there are a lot of layers to what Indian food is and layers of history and then when you put it down to just the C word [curry] … you know?” Ms Raichura says.
“For the longest time ever, no self-respecting Indian said, ‘I’m going to have a curry tonight’ … That wasn’t in the vocabulary,” Dr Collingham says.
Understanding the history of their cuisine, and how it shapes their identity today is sometimes a complex task for Indians, Canadian author Naben Ruthnum adds.
“I’m a postcolonial mess of a person over here who’s scraped together an identity that has very little to do with my country of origin.”
And today, for many Indians all over the world, curry has taken on a different meaning, despite its ambiguous and colonial origins.
“To me, it’s come to sort of represent a blend of identities,” Ruthnum says.
Despite being a colonial invention, some Indians have learned to embrace the word curry and reclaim the dish as symbolic of their complex history, he explains.
“It’s come to represent a food that I really like, and it’s come to represent all the things that I didn’t really understand about history and myself.”
Editor’s note (April 23, 2025): This article has been amended to reflect the possibility the etymological source of the word curry could be the Tamil word ‘kari’, however historians broadly agree the meaning of the word applied by the Portuguese and British differed to that applied by the Tamil people in the 16th century.
By Nikhil Merchant
The idea of celebrities owning restaurants in India isn’t new. We still remember the early-2000s’ buzz around Someplace Else in Mumbai, co-owned by Bobby Deol, or the excitement when Sachin Tendulkar opened his namesake restaurant in partnership with hotelier Sanjay Narang. Around the same time, Suniel Shetty’s H2O: The Liquid Lounge was another hotspot, driven less by food and more by the hope of spotting a star. Back then, these places were more like fan experiences than serious dining destinations.
A New Wave of Star-Backed Ventures
But something’s shifted. Over the past few years, we’ve seen a different kind of celebrity-owned establishment emerge—one with clearer intent, stronger partnerships, and deeper personal storytelling. Today’s celebrities aren’t just lending their names; they are curating spaces, investing time in the concept, and working alongside experienced professionals to shape something that resonates beyond the usual expectations.
There’s nostalgia, branding, and the careful projection of a public persona—all channelled through food. So what’s really driving this new wave of celebrity-led dining ventures? Why step into a business known for its high failure rate, even with money and fame in your corner? And when the allure fades, what really keeps these places standing?
It starts innocently enough. You’re at a restaurant—the interiors are swanky, with an air of glamour, metallic or mirrored glints, it’s all a bit surreal and elegantly showy. You pick up the menu and there it is—the name. Not printed (too gauche), but in the carefully italicised whispers floating through the air. “You know it’s their place, right?”
Dining With Identity and Intent
India’s celebrity-led hospitality boom has traded the old-school dazzle for a more curated kind of fame—a space where stars descend from front of camera into raw business, seeking solace in an industry that still knows how to keep you in the limelight. But if you think these are just vanity projects laundered with truffle fries, think again—the profit-and-loss sheet is very real.
Back in the day, it was Arth that hinted at what was possible. Designed by Gauri Khan, it became a two-pronged sensation—her high-design polish (and the chance to bump into her husband), paired with chef Amninder Sandhu’s signature fire-cooked menu. Today, names like Gaurav Batra—brand head at True Palate Hospitality—carried on that evolution. “We don’t just start blindly or star-struck,” he says. “We start with the guest—and ask, what are they hungry for that the market isn’t feeding?” His projects include filmmaker Karan Johar’s Neuma in Mumbai and now Jolene in Goa by Amrita Arora. “With Amu, we weren’t chasing flash-in-the-pan virality. We wanted something people came back to,” he adds.
If Amrita was enchanting the coast, her sister Malaika Arora brought poise to Mumbai. Her venture, Scarlett House, is what she calls “quiet and warm luxury,” converting a landmark bungalow in a village in Bandra to a haven of coziness and comfort, much like an elegant home.
“We focused on elevated simplicity,” she says, adding: “The idea was to build a high-touch experience with a strong word-of -mouth appeal —something that lasts longer than hype.” Co-founded with her son Arhaan, it’s equal parts elegance and Gen-Z fluency—from music to digital UX.
Batra isn’t slowing down either. He launched One8 Commune with ace cricketer Virat Kohli—a pan-India, premium-yet-approachable brand. Meanwhile, Yuvraj Singh —the World Cup-winning all-rounder with a knack for comebacks—follows suit with his latest venture in Gurgaon, KOCA. Inspired by childhood staples like kadhi chawal and rajma, he calls it a “culinary playground” grounded in the discipline and teamwork that defined his cricketing years. “Building KOCA required meticulous planning and collaboration,” he says. This foundation has been instrumental in shaping KOCA’s ethos and operations.
The narrative shifts when we consider the work and ideologies behind these celebrity-backed concepts—they steer clear of unapproachable appeal and instead veer towards community and acceptance. Kona Kona in suburban Mumbai, founded by actor Mona Singh and consulting chef Jasleen Marwah, is a bar-forward space which exudes comfort and attracts the notion of community. “I didn’t want fancy,” says Singh. “Just a place where people feel at home.” The menu blends Indian and popular global flavours in their truest form—shareability. Think childhood flavours in a modern bar setting. Both Singh and Marwah, shaped by peripatetic upbringings, have poured their collected food memories into every plate and corner.
Meanwhile, Shilpa Shetty’s Bastian Hospitality has evolved significantly since its inception, pushing boundaries in luxury dining—immersive, ever-relevant, and always a few steps ahead. “Bastian has always stood for more than just dining,” she says. “We wanted to meet today’s discerning, global diner with concepts that feel fresh, thoughtful, and exquisite,” she adds.
That same philosophy is applied in the brand’s new sibling, Blondie—a specialty café in Bandra. “Blondie was born out of a desire to create something more intimate, more everyday—a space that speaks to the culture of casual, community-driven dining,” she says. With a cool menu to boot, including ceremonial-grade matcha and beans sourced from 45 women farmers in Chikmagalur, Blondie brings resourceful and sustainable thought processes to trending tastes.
Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai-born food and beverage expert, consultant and writer.
Disclaimer: Views expressed are personal and do not reflect the official position or policy of FinancialExpress.com. Reproducing this content without permission is prohibited.
Restaurants & Food
From Cricket To Curry: 6 Indian Cricketers Who Now Own Restaurants You Can Actually Eat At | Food
Restaurants owned by Indian cricketers
Cricket and food- two different elements that always manage to stir the soul of every Indian. Whether it’s enjoying a wholesome plate of warm curries and biryani to cheering for the last over, both experiences never fail to bring people together. For many of us, life’s most memorable moments are tied together with a home-cooked meal.
Well, to satisfy the statement, India’s most iconic cricketers have stepped off the pitch and are serving some refreshing delights to the fans at their restaurants. These stars have launched their own restaurants, which are truly inspired by their personal journey. Whether it’s Virat Kohli’s approach to nutritious and healthy eating or Yuvraj Singh’s love for plant-based and vegan dishes, these are not just some regular places, but they are crafting and promoting an experience for everyone. From curated menus to soulful ambience, head to these cricket stars owned restaurants for a change.
One8 Commune- Virat Kohli
Delhi is one of the hot spots for affordable and quality food. One8 Commune, owned by Virat Kohli, is a chain that offers good and healthy delights. This vibrant destination promotes clean eating with togetherness, along with an ambience that is both comforting and elegant. The space is designed to offer a laid-back vibe with comforting food that blends nutrition and flavour. ‘Virat’s Favourites’ is a highlight offering from the selection of dishes that promote guilt-free delights with gourmet indulgence.
Address: Multiple outlets
Cost: INR 2500
Shaka Harry- MS Dhoni
MS Dhoni has always been a game changer when it comes to helicopter shots or healthy food swaps. The former Indian captain has invested in Shaka Harry, a plant-based protein venture that caters to the growing demand for sustainable and vegetarian alternatives. Renowned for his love for healthy dishes, Shaka Harry promotes meatless versions of popular dishes, which are protein-filled and smart too.
Address: 3rd floor, Oxford House, 15, RUSTAM BAGH MAIN ROAD, KODIHALLI, 560017 Bangalore KA, India
Cost: INR 1500
KOCA- Yuvraj Singh
Yuvraj Singh’s latest venture is KOCA, a 500-seater joint packed with wholesome food options to drink selections in Gurgaon. The destination is inspired by comforting food and childhood memories, and KOCA is all about hearty North Indian flavours with a modern twist. Created in collaboration with top chefs, you can try some of the unique food offerings from the ‘Yuvi’s Favourites’ section.
Address: SCO4-7, Golf Avenue 42, Golf Course Road, Sector 42, Gurugram, Haryana 122103
Cost: INR 2000
Jaddu’s Food Field- Ravindra Jadeja
In the heart of Rajkot lies a multi-cuisine restaurant owned by all-rounder Ravindra Jadeja. Reflecting Jadeja’s vibrant personality and roots in Gujarat, the eatery offers everything from Indian and Mexican to Thai and Italian dishes. With wholesome food options to festive ambience, it has become a favourite spot for locals to enjoy good food.
Address: Cross Road buildings, Kalawad Road, Pradhyuman Lords Inn, Rajkot, Gujarat 360005
Cost: INR 1000
Raina Indian Restaurant, Suresh Raina
Taking Indian flavours overseas, Suresh Raina has launched Raina Indian Restaurant in Amsterdam. The restaurant offers a celebration of India’s diverse culinary heritage, offering dishes from every region of the country. Whether it’s rich north Indian gravies to spicy south Indian delights, Raina’s menu is a tribute to Indian food culture. With warm ambience and authentic flavours, it gives natives and tourists a taste of home away from home.
Address: Admiraal de Ruijterweg 468, 1055 NH Amsterdam, Netherlands
Cost: INR 2000
Elevens, Kapil Dev
India’s original World Cup hero, Kapil Dev, is a part of the culinary league with this cricket-themed restaurant, ‘Eleven’ in Patna. Opened back in 2008, this eatery is truly a haven for cricket fans. From international flags to faux grass carpeting, the destination offers a perfect cricket vibe. From pan-asian to continental options, it’s a place where fans can dine while reliving the perfect cricket past.
Address: Ankit Chandradeep Complex, Sri Niwas Path, Bander Bagicha, Fraser Road Area, Patna, Bihar 800001
Cost: INR 1400
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