For years, Jamesburg’s main street sat quietly — a few shops, a pizza place, not much else.

But recently, things have started to change in the small Central Jersey suburb. A coffee shop. A craft burger joint. A Peruvian spot. And now, an innovative new Indian restaurant bringing big flavors to town.

Thumkaa, owned by husband-and-wife team Ruby Bhalla and Sunil Ratwani, opened in March in a space with deep local roots. It occupies part of the former home of Mendoker’s, a beloved neighborhood bakery that served Jamesburg for 84 years before closing in 2016.

The building has since been split in two; the other half now houses Burrito Bowl Mexican Grill — also owned by Bhalla and Ratwani. Burrito Bowl also has locations in Howell, Freehold and Monroe Township.

Bhalla told NJ Advance Media the space that now houses Thumkaa was originally meant for something else entirely.

“We originally bought this building as a production house for our other restaurants, but it was a 3,500-square-foot place that was empty,” Bhalla said. “I was like, what should we do?”

Being from India herself, Bhalla said the decision to open an Indian restaurant was about more than just business — it was personal. She wanted to create something tied to her cultural roots, and saw a need for a place like Thumkaa in the area.

But with new businesses constantly opening up in town, does Thumkaa fit in? And in a space that once housed a beloved bakery, can Thumkaa live up to that same potential? Let’s dig in.

The good

Bhalla also serves as Thumkaa’s executive chef, bringing her vision and heritage directly to the plate. While the menu is broadly Indian, much of it draws inspiration from the northern region of Punjab, known for its intense flavors and generous use of spices, butter and cream.

Diners will find classics like butter chicken, biryani, and crisp, golden samosas — but Thumkaa also branches out. A dedicated Indo-Chinese section highlights the spicy fusion cuisine beloved across India, while playful twists like chicken tikka pizza show Bhalla isn’t afraid to mix tradition with innovation.

The restaurant is currently working on getting its liquor license, but guests are more than welcome to BYO. They also offer a selection of hand-crafted mocktails.

Chaat is a category of Indian street snacks typically made with crispy dough bits, chickpeas, yogurt, spices and chutneys all layered together. Their papri chaat ($16), is piled high with crunchy papris (bite-sized wafers), yogurt, tamarind chutney, chickpeas and sev (deep-fried noodle pieces), finished with a sprinkle of pomegranate seeds. It’s a beautifully colorful and chaotic dish — a compliment. Each bite bursts with a medley of flavors and textures: sweet, slightly spicy, creamy, and crunchy all at once.

Paneer tikka is a popular Indian appetizer featuring marinated paneer (firm Indian cheese) that is cooked in a tandoor, or clay oven, until smoky and charred. While Thumkaa offers this timeless appetizer, they also find a creative spin with the paneer tikka tacos ($16 for 3). Each soft tortilla stuffs chunks of paneer, pickled onions, curry aioli and minty chutney. A thoughtful, flavorful mashup that was tangy, smooth and well spiced.

All of the entrées at Thumkaa come with a side of fragrant basmati rice, but diners can also round out their meal with a selection of additional rice dishes and bread such as naan or roti. Guests can also choose a heat level for their meal, from mild to spicy. Most of my dishes were served mild, but still packed some of punch; spice-averse eaters use caution.

The amritsari fried fish ($26) is a well-known Punjabi dish of spiced, fried fish. At Thumkaa, it’s made with swai — a mildly flavored freshwater fish from Southeast Asia (sourced from Performance Food Group in Virginia) — coated in a gram flour batter and fried until golden brown. The result is wonderfully flaky, tender, and juicy, with a satisfying crunch. The side of jalapeño aioli adds just the right kick.

The lamb buna ($30) stews pieces of slow-cooked lamb in a blend of spices, tomatoes and herbs. The meat is melt-in-your-mouth soft, soaking up the rich, concentrated flavor of the thick, clinging sauce – one of the heartiest dishes on the menu. I used garlic naan and some rice to soak up every drop of that meaty, savory sauce.

For a taste from the Indo-Chinese section, I tried the gobi manchurian dry ($18) – crispy, battered cauliflower florets coated in a zesty sauce with hints of sweetness and gentle heat. The flavor instantly reminded me of General Tso’s chicken, but with a lighter, veggie-friendly twist.

The bad

Thumkaa’s dessert menu features a mix of Western favorites like crème brûlée and chocolate lava cake with Indian specialties like gulab jamun (golden brown balls soaked in rose sugar syrup) and kulfi (frozen milk dessert). I ordered the ras malai (cheese dumplings soaked in cardamom flavored milk, $14) and the rose kulfi (frozen milk treat infused with rose).

Neither dessert quite lived up to the high bar set by the rest of the meal. After such a vibrant and flavorful dinner, the dessert felt like an unexpectedly flat ending — more of a pause than a finale.

The vibe

As a former Jamesburg-adjacent local myself (I grew up in Monroe), I have vivid memories of visiting Mendoker’s bakery when it was still open — small, cozy and always packed.

Thumkaa feels a galaxy away in style: The space has been transformed into a large, modern, nightclub-like atmosphere, with dark-toned walls and tables, tinted windows, and vibrant pops of color in the seating and decor.

It’s bold and dramatic — a striking contrast to what stood there before, and a clear sign that something new has arrived in Jamesburg.

There’s also live music that plays in the restaurant on Wednesdays and Sundays in the summer, and then Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays during the rest of the year.

The bottom line

A restaurant like Thumkaa has been a long time coming for Jamesburg.

And the location couldn’t be more perfect. Yes, Edison and Woodbridge get top billing with Oak Tree Road and its long list of South Asian favorites, but there are large Indian communities in surrounding towns like South Brunswick, East Brunswick, and Sayreville, too. Thumkaa feels right at home in the middle of it all.

It will certainly compete with Bagara n’ Biryani, a more modest Indian restaurant two minutes down the road. But for a more elevated experience, Thumkaa is the place to be. The restaurant stands out for its expressive flavors, modern flair, and thoughtful fusion dishes that venture beyond the basics.

“There was a need for this kind of restaurant. Our whole setup is unlike any other place here. It’s very city-like and that’s the vibe I wanted to bring here,” Bhalla said.

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