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An Amazing Ring Road Itinerary

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So, you’re spending 7 days in Iceland! Even though it’s possible to cover quite a bit of ground with 1 week in Iceland, the country is much larger than it looks. I’m going to show you how to plan a 7 day Ring Road itinerary of Iceland, circling the country in a week.

Now, you will need to prepare yourself for several hours of driving each day. I also only suggest this itinerary for the summer months. In the land of the midnight sun, it stays light out well into the night, which makes these longer days and packed itineraries easier.

While the first couple of days in Reykjavik and driving the Golden Circle have significantly less driving, the itinerary really ramps up by day three. As we venture towards the east and north of Iceland, there will be long driving days.

Total disclaimer: while a 7 day road trip around the Ring Road is doable, I still recommend taking two weeks to explore, if possible.

When Justin and I visited Iceland, we took two weeks to see it all and added some time in the Westfjords. You may want to even push your trip to 10 days if you want to drive the whole Ring Road.

7 Days in Iceland Itinerary

Upon your arrival at the Keflavik airport, pick up your rental car from Cars Iceland. This will also be the drop-off point for your rental car after spending 7 days in Iceland on an epic Ring Road road trip.

We’ll be venturing around the entire Ring Road in seven days. If this schedule seems to busy for you or you don’t want to do quite as much driving, I suggest expanding upon our 5 day itinerary, adding a couple of ideas from this post.

And I don’t recommend doing this itinerary in the winter. Many northern roads close in the wintertime due to the ice and snow. Always check the road conditions in Iceland before you head out, no matter the time of year.

One more tip: don’t wait too long to fill up your car with gas. Once we drive out to the east and north areas of Iceland, gas stations are few and far between. Fill up more frequently to avoid running out of gas.

Day 1: Reykjavik

While the natural beauty of Iceland is its main draw, don’t skip the capital city of Reykjavik. A day in Reykjavik is ideal for getting over jetlag. Plus, it’s easy to see most of its attractions in a day.

Experience the City

Reykjavik is very walkable. I loved exploring on my own two feet. Laugavegur is Reykjavik’s main shopping street with many shops, restaurants and cafes. From Laugavegur, wander up the Rainbow Street where a bright rainbow is painted on the ground, spanning the width and length of the road.

Hallgrimskirkja is an unmissable attraction – you need to visit in person, but you also won’t be able to miss it since it’s the tallest church in the country. For a small fee, take an elevator to the panoramic viewing platform of Hallgrimskirkja for the best views of Reykjavik.

Some other landmarks you need to see when you’re in Reykjavik include Harpa (the concert hall and architectural marvel), Sólfar, (Sun Voyager sculpture) and Reykjavik’s waterfront for beautiful scenery.

Sky Lagoon

Sky Lagoon is an oceanside geothermal lagoon and such a great way to relax after your flight. While Sky Lagoon is manmade, soaking in the naturally heated waters is a longstanding cultural tradition in Iceland.

Admire the rugged volcanic rocks and seaside views as you relax in the hot springs. I also recommend Sky Lagoon’s 7-step ritual, which includes their sauna, exfoliating scrub, steam room and more.

Where to Stay: Grandi by Center Hotels, Reykjavik

Day 2: Golden Circle

One of the most famous day trips from Reykjavik is Iceland’s Golden Circle. Let’s experience the Golden Circle on the second day of our itinerary. Rather than a day trip from Reykjavik, it will be the first segment of our 7 day Iceland road trip itinerary.

The Golden Circle consists of Thingvellir National Park, Geysir, and Gullfoss. One is an amazing national park that’s great for walkind exploring, one is a geothermal site with geysers, and the last is a massive waterfall.

Thingvellir National Park

Thingvellir National Park has great geologic and historic significance, making it a worthwhile stop on any trip to Iceland.

First, the park itself exists on two tectonic plates: the North American tectonic plate and the Eurasian plate. It’s the only place in the world where the rift is above sea level. You can technically walk alongside both plates in one place, meaning that you’re wandering between two continents.

Next, the world’s oldest parliament was founded in the year 930 in Þingvellir. The word “Þingvellir” means “the fields of parliament”. While this idea of parliament is a far cry from what we have today, it happened centuries before parliaments were formed in other European countries.

When you visit Thingvellir National Park, you can simply go for a walk around the grounds. Check out the little white church, Öxaráfoss (a beautiful waterfall) and other stunning scenery. It’s also possible to book a snorkeling tour at the Silfra Fissure to witness the tectonic plates in crystal clear waters.

Geysir

Did you know that all geysers in the world are named after Geysir, this most famous geyser in Iceland? However, it’s worth nothing that Geysir rarely erupts anymore.

But, there’s a slightly smaller geyser called Strokkur that erupts once every two to 10 minutes. The water violently erupts into the sky anywhere from 15 to 40 meters up.

Gullfoss

Gullfoss, also known as “Golden Falls”, is the final stop on the Golden Circle tour. It’s a huge, tiered waterfall, and its water source is the Hvita River and Langjökull glacier.

There’s a platform overlooking the entire waterfall and another pathway leading down to the falls. I’ve visited Gullfoss twice now and it’s been raining and misty on both occasions. If you decide to walk closer to the waterfall, be prepared as you will get wet!

Where to stay: Gesthus Selfoss

Day 3: South Coast

Next on our Iceland itinerary for 7 days, we continue from the Golden Circle route to the South Coast. Iceland’s South Coast is home to majestic waterfalls, black sand beaches, and a popular plane wreck site.

We’re going to visit everything I’ve just mentioned for day three of our Iceland 1 week itinerary. Let’s go!

Seljalandsfoss

Seljalandsfoss is a gorgeous waterfall and the first stop of the day. This waterfall is quite unique as there’s a large path wrapping around it, meaning that you can walk right behind the falls. I also loved the mossy and very green landscape that surrounds Seljalandsfoss.

At the same location, walk a short distance to discover Gljúfrabúi, a hidden waterfall. Gljúfrabúi means “the one who lives in the canyon” and it’s thought to be the home of the elves. Gljúfrabúi is behind a narrow entrance in the gorge, so it’s easy to miss if you aren’t looking for it.

Skógafoss

Only a short drive away, Skógafoss is the next waterfall on this South Coast day trip. This is one of the largest waterfalls in Iceland with a width of 82 meters and a height of 60 meters.

Admire Skogafoss from the base of the falls. Then, hike up a staircase at the side of the mountain for spectacular views from up top. You can continue walking and enjoying amazing scenery all around.

Sólheimasandur Plane Crash Site

In 1973, a United States Navy Douglas Super DC-3 airplane made a crash landing in the middle of the Icelandic countryside. Thankfully, everyone survived. The plane wreckage remains near the Sólheimasandur black sand beach.

It’s about a 45 minute walk from the parking lot off the Ring Road to the Sólheimasandur Plane Crash Site. To be perfectly honest, it’s not the most exciting walk in the world. It’s flat terrain and the scenery isn’t anything to write home about.

However, the plane crash itself is quite interesting, especially if you’re interested in aviation history or you enjoy quirky places. You can get up close to the plane and even walk inside it, but please don’t climb on top of it. It’s important to preserve this site for future visitors since the plane is getting more frail as time goes on.

Reynisfjara

Reynisfjara is a dramatic black sand beach not too far from Vik. There are intriguing rock formations and tiny black pebbles as far as you can see. Walk down to the beach and wander into little caves in the cliffs.

Justin and I walked around Kirkjufiara Beach and gazed out to the deep blue waters. Massive pillars extended out from the sea, carved by nature over many generations.

Be careful of the “sneaker waves”. While the water might look calm, the waves can really sneak up on you. The ocean here is very powerful, and the waves can pull you into the sea and below the surface in a split second. For this reason, don’t get too close to the water.

Where to stay: Lambhus Glacier View Cabins

Day 4: Southeast and East Coast

Let’s continue our Iceland 7 day itinerary traveling on the Ring Road in a counterclockwise direction. We’re heading around the southeast and east coast of Iceland, from Diamond Beach and Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon and ending in the cute down of Seydisfjordur.

Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon

Jokulsarlon is Iceland’s deepest lake, and the icebergs here are over 1000 years old. The waters of this lagoon form a unique color because they consist of freshwater (from the glacier) and seawater (from the ocean).

The best way to experience Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon is by taking a zodiac boat tour. Justin and I loved getting up close to the floating icebergs, the glacier wall, and even a seal that lounged on one of the icebergs.

Driving the East Coast

The East Fjords of Iceland are truly stunning. While the South Coast, North Iceland and even the Westfjords get all the credit, the eastern side of Iceland is really special.

There are brilliant black sand beaches, towering rock formations, and snowcapped mountains. There are many scenic viewpoints on the Ring Road that you might even have all to yourself on this leg of the journey. Make frequent stops to take it all in.

Seydisfjordur

Don’t miss the adorable and colorful town of Seydisfjordur. Located about 30 minutes off the Ring Road, Seydisfjordur sits at the edge of its namesake fjord.

The town has a vibrant arts scene and there’s street art all around. Coupled with cozy cafes and a little white church in the middle of town, this was one of our favorite stops of our Iceland Ring Road trip.

There’s even a gorgeous waterfall at the edge of town called Gufufoss. “Gufa” means vapor or steam, so you have the aptly named, vapor or steam waterfall (there was quite a bit of mist coming from Gufufoss!).

Where to Stay: Við Lónið Guesthouse

Day 5: North Iceland and Myvatn

This is going to be a really packed day (feel free to leave off any of these attractions if you run out of time!), but you’ll make such amazing memories. Traveling through northeast Iceland towards Lake Myvatn, you’ll experience some natural attractions of Iceland’s Diamond Circle.

We won’t have enough time on this trip to check out Husavik, the whale watching capital of Iceland. Please feel free to add on an extra day to this itinerary if you’d like to visit Husavik (I vote yes on this one!).

Dettifoss

Dettifoss is the most powerful waterfall in Europe. This waterfall, which flows from Vatnajökull glacier, is 100 meters wide and plunges 44 meters. There’s a large observation deck here, but be prepared to get wet! The falls are very powerful and it gets really misty here.

Krafla / Viti Crater

Krafla, a caldera, formed after past volcanic eruptions. At its center lies the Viti crater with its surreal blue-green lake. It’s possible to walk around the outer edge of the crater, marveling at this vibrant lake and the colorful landscapes that surrounds it.

Namafjall Hverir

Namafjall Hverir has an otherworldly landscape, reminiscent of the planet, Mars. This is a prime example of Iceland’s underlying geothermal powers. Steaming vents and bubbling gray mudpots are scattered across a green, orange, and gray speckled ground.

Dimmuborgir Lava Fields

Dimmuborgir is home to rugged black rock formations created from hardened lava that dates back over 200 years. Lava once flowed across a small lake and caused the water to boil. The steam from this lake created lava pillars, hollowed tubes and chimneys that form a unique landscape.

Where to stay: Skutustadir Guesthouse

Day 6: Akureyri to Hvammstangi

On the sixth day of our 7 days in Iceland itinerary, we drive across north Iceland reaching the unofficial northern capital, Akureyri and ending up in Iceland’s seal capital, Hvammstangi. The scenery you’ll witness from the car is nothing short of magnificent.

Akureyri

Akureyri is a great place to spend half a day in Iceland. While we’ve spent the majority of our Ring Road trip visiting natural sites, we’ll break up the trip by spending some time in the city.

As its even smaller than Reykjavik, Akureyri is very walkable. There’s an abundance of public art and murals to see, as well as shops, cafes and restaurants. Some other local attractions include the Akureyri church, the Akureyri Botanical Garden, and Kjarnaskógur Forest.

Hvammstangi

We’ll end the day at Hvammstangi, also known as the seal watching capital of Iceland. Naturally, I recommend going seal watching as it’s the best place to see these beautiful creatures in the wild. Also, don’t miss a trip to Kolugljufur Gorge to see a lush canyon and waterfall.

Where to stay: Hvammstangi Cottages

Day 7: Snæfellsnes Peninsula

This might be one of the longest driving days, but it’s worth the extra mileage to encircle the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. It’s thought to be “Iceland in miniature” as there’s a national park, spectacular mountains, gorges, and volcanic craters.

What better way to sum up your 7 days in Iceland with a reminder of everything that you’ve witnessed in this beautiful country.

Kirkjufell

Kirkjufell is Iceland’s most photographed mountain and you’ve likely seen it in pictures before. The name Kirkjufell means “church mountain” and it’s a magnificent green mountain just outside of Grundarfjörður. A little cascade and river run in front of the mountain, adding to the magical scene.

Saxhóll Crater

Situated inside the Snæfellsjökull National Park, Saxhóll is a crater from an ancient volcano that erupted between 3000 and 4000 years ago. There’s a winding staircase at the side of the crater that leads to the top of it. Enjoy some amazing panoramic views from the top.

Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge

Rauðfeldsgjá Gorge was another surprise visit for us as we only noticed it from the side of the road. There’s a small opening at the side of the gorge. Hike inside the gorge to witness a shallow stream of glacier water flowing through it. Moss covered rocks extend to the sky.

From Grundarfjordur, it’s about a three hour drive to Keflavik Airport. This is totally fine if you have a flight later in the day. If your flight is earlier, consider staying in Borgarnes as it’s only an hour and thirty minutes from the airport.

Where to stay: G4 Apartment in Grundarfjordur or Hotel Hamar in Borgarnes

1 Week Travel Budget in Iceland

Iceland is an expensive country to visit by comparison to other places in the world. Your main expenses in Iceland include:

  • Rental car, gas and parking
  • Hotels and accommodations
  • Attractions and tours
  • Dining and food

This 7 day Iceland itinerary doesn’t include many pre-planned tours or guided trips. This is primarily a self drive tour of Iceland. You’ll visit the natural attractions on your own without pre-booking anything.

We stayed at accommodations overnight rather than camping or sleeping in a van. However, we also made sure to stay at cottages with small kitchenettes to cook all of our own food. By buying groceries for most of our trip, we saved money by not dining at restaurants.

There will be some parking fees at larger attractions. For the most part, the natural attractions in Iceland are completely free to visit, including the parking. The only attractions with fees in this blog post are the spa and hot spring experiences, like Sky Lagoon.

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More Aussies are using AI to plan holidays, from scoring deals to assembling itineraries

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I’m planning a trip to Iceland, aka one of the most expensive countries in the world.

Can I afford to go? What would a realistic budget look like for a two-week holiday? How can I cut corners to save some cash?

I decide to do the 2025 equivalent of phoning a friend — I ask my buddy ChatGPT.

My initial prompt is too vague and it gives pricing in USD, which isn’t particularly helpful. I refine my criteria, asking for a rough total in AUD for a fortnight in September, departing from Perth (“please”, I add, because manners are still important when talking to a robot).

In the blink of an eye, Chat spits out a breakdown of average costs on everything from flights to accommodation, car rental, food and activities.

There are three tiers for backpacker, mid-range and luxury travel and an option to split components if I have a travelling companion.

It even offers suggestions for making my hard-earned coin stretch further, like buying groceries rather than eating out and opting to self-drive rather than joining a guided tour of the famous Golden Circle.

All in all, Chat reckons I’ll need to save $8500-$9000 to make Iceland happen.

What would have taken me hours of research and a lot of math just to ascertain whether I can even consider the trip in the first place was reduced to mere minutes.

Cutting corners, cyber style

While I want to give myself a pat on the back for being so resourceful — there’s a certain smugness that comes with finding a sneaky shortcut — I am hardly the first to use ChatGPT for travel tips.

In recent research conducted by Compare the Market, nearly a third of those surveyed admitted to using artificial intelligence to plan their holidays.

These Aussie respondents said they outsourced a range of tasks to AI, with the most common being destination recommendations, hunting for deals, seeking activities and finding accommodation.

Others reported they used AI to quickly create itineraries, scour flights or transport and understand currency conversion.

The data also gave insight into how different generations are embracing the technology — or not.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, gen Z and millennials are spearheading the adoption of AI when it comes to concocting their dream vacation, with 52 per cent and 44 per cent respectively utilising the tool to plan a holiday.

Meanwhile, 93 per cent of baby boomers and 76 per cent of gen X respondents said they were resistant to bringing AI into their trip arrangements.

Compare the Market’s Chris Ford says the stats reflect how we engage with the ever-changing tech landscape.

“Our latest data highlights a shift in the way travellers are approaching their planning, with convenience, personalisation and speed driving the adoption of innovative AI tools,” he says.

“It’s likely that travellers are using these tools in addition to chatting with travel agents, conducting desktop research or seeking ideas and inspiration from social media.

“AI is evolving at a rapid rate and as it becomes more accessible and intuitive, it’s not surprising that travellers are relying on new technology to help shape their dream holidays.”

But the insurer warns against taking AI’s word as gospel.

With nothing to validate the credibility of such recommendations, Ford says travellers need to practice due diligence.

“AI can be a great starting point when planning a holiday, but always ensure you’re crossing your ‘t’s and dotting your ‘i’s,” he says.

“Many of these tools and services are still in their infancy stage and may not be 100 per cent accurate, so do your own research to ensure you’re equipped with the right tools and information for your trip.

“The last thing we want to see is anyone getting themselves into a potentially dangerous or unsafe situation based on the recommendations from AI.”

Camera IconMany Aussies are using virtual itineraries. Credit: Oscar Wong/Getty Images

The virtual line in the sand

Ford makes a crucial point here about our relationship with platforms like ChatGPT.

Rather than approaching them as one-stop-shop to curate every element of our holiday, we should instead consider them as a starting point to kick off deeper research.

After all, isn’t that part of the fun with travel — the anticipation in the lead-up, the process of discovering a destination before we have arrived and assembling a bucket list tailored to our specific taste?

By asking a computer to generate an itinerary based on what’s popular, we are depriving ourselves of creativity, spontaneity and adventure.

We must also remember that what the AI bot spits out is dependent on the quality of our prompts.

The more we refine our request, the more likely we will receive helpful answers, but even then things can go wonky.

Take this from my colleague Belle: “I asked ChatGPT to give me a child-friendly restaurant in Ubud. It sent me to a weird health food restaurant with a koi pond where you couldn’t wear shoes. My feral children cleared the room within minutes. Disaster.”

Then there’s the cognitive dissonance that comes with considering the environmental impact of AI versus the fear of being left behind if we don’t get on board with this technology.

Like it or not, it is shaping and re-shaping the future at breakneck speed.

We all have to decide where our (virtual) line in the sand is: what is productive and “mindful” use based on our needs and values.

For me, I’m OK with employing ChatGPT to whip up a quick budget so I can take the holiday to Iceland I’ve always dreamed of.

But when it asks if I want activity recommendations or a detailed itinerary next, I politely decline. I’d rather leave some room for mystery and exploration.

“Thanks”, I farewell my cyber mate in my sign-off (because, manners).

What the team thinks

Our collective of writers just so happens to represent the four age demographics mentioned in the research above. So what’s the hot take?

Stephen Scourfield — baby boomer

Trusting someone – or, in this case, something – to book a holiday (particularly a family holiday!) requires a lot of trust.

If some detail is missed in the booking process (a wrong date, a badly timed connection), it will be you standing there, somewhere, trying to fix it (possibly with the family “on your case”).

Would I trust AI yet?

No – not yet.

Of course, I think we all know that AI is good at doing grunt work and it is up to us to check details. So AI is already useful for the broad-brush, first sweep of mapping out a holiday.

But AI won’t then back itself by booking it all. (That will be the game changer.)

So, at this stage, AI, for me, is still a basic tool of research – not a replacement for an experienced and knowledgeable travel agent.

Leyanne Baillie gen X

Although my generation is confident when it comes to using tech (even if we’re not digital natives), I think AI programs would be more effort than they’re worth.

I know it could be a time-saver in terms of journey-planning brainstorming and getting a rough guide of options, but I’d still want to tailor my itinerary to cater to my personal taste.

I don’t think I’m ready to hand over the reins completely to artificial intelligence just yet.

Jessie Stoelwinder — millennial

I love a good travel hack, and that’s how I have been approaching my use of AI.

Anything that makes life a little easier and frees me up to investigate the fun stuff — where to eat, hike, shop, people-watch etc. — and I am on board.

I’ve used ChatGPT to quickly aggregate travel data for personal trips to assist with admin, logistics and practicalities, which I will then cross-check and verify to make sure the information works for me.

Recommendations, however? Word of mouth and insider intel from a human being will always win, in my opinion.

Megan French — gen Z

I would be open to the idea of utilising AI when planning my travels but I’d take everything it recommends with a grain of salt while still doing my own thorough research.

I think it’s great for foundational information-based planning early in trip preparations, such as “what holidays are on in India during July and how is best to navigate them?”

But when it comes to booking flights and accommodation, I’d go nowhere near AI … yet.



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Why Budapest is Europe’s most underrated city: travel guide.

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My hostel was minutes from the Danube, on the Pest side and just a perfect location. A little bit further from the city but accessible via tram, scooter, or bike and still within walking distance of great restaurants, bars and sights.

Plus, if you, like me, crave some Asian cuisine while wandering the cities of Europe, Budapest has a surprisingly incredible selection of small restaurants to try. My personal favourite was PHỞ 18 Budapest — you can thank me later.

What to do in Budapest.

Budapest is so large, and with so much to do, it’d take a tightly packed itinerary to get it all done in a few days. But here are a few of my non-negotiables.

Firstly, walk around. In my humble opinion, there is no better way to get a feel for a new city than by roaming the streets and taking in the sights on foot. Especially in Budapest, a city that can capture your imagination at every corner. Crossing the Liberty Bridge and seeing both sides of the city unfold before your eyes is an experience not easily forgotten. 

On my first morning, I walked up to Buda Castle and explored the grounds and museums before hiring a scooter and making my way back to my accommodation.

Image: Supplied.





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Travel experts share their once-in-a-lifetime itineraries for hidden Ireland

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“My first tour was in 1998, right after the Omagh bomb. So it was quite the strange time,” says Ginger Aarons. 

From the peace process and the Celtic Tiger to the advent of a multicultural society, the travel expert and genealogy enthusiast has seen huge changes across the island of Ireland in the 27 years she’s been bringing clients here on tailor-made travel trips.

And she’s not alone. Her fellow bespoke tour operators, Kate McCabe and Max Sussman of Bog & Thunder and Rachel Gaffney of Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland, have also been blazing a trail from the US to highlight a 21st-century vision of Ireland to their clients, and each have their own take on what that is. 

Their tours are high-end, once-in-a-lifetime experiences, but all are agreed on one thing: luxury is not necessarily about helicopters, champagne, and five stars. 

It’s to be found in those magical moments of connection, a hidden Ireland that’s there, waiting to be revealed, if we just give it the opportunity to do so.

Rachel Gaffney at the Port of Cork

Rachel Gaffney

Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland

“Take your time. Otherwise you’re just doing a drive-by,” is what Cork woman Rachel Gaffney advises the Americans for whom she organises bespoke tours of Ireland. 

“Allow Ireland to unveil herself, because she will,” says the Dallas-based slow-travel advocate.

Gaffney moved to the States in 1996, having worked in the Irish and UK hotel industry for decades.

She set up her own travel company, Rachel Gaffney’s Real Ireland, when she moved Stateside, and every year spends 12 weeks in Ireland doing on-the-ground research of what’s new and what will chime with her clientele, who, typically, “have a home in Aspen, and a home in Palm Beach, a home here, and a home there”.

“They have pretty high standards,” she says. “They may say they’re low maintenance, and in fairness, most are. Just get it right for them, that’s all they want.

“I have a plan, but I don’t have a plan,” she says of her annual deep dive into what Ireland has to offer. 

Coupled with her natural curiosity and an instinct for the new and unusual, what unfolds for her clients is an eclectic mix. 

While super-luxe spots invariably feature — “Ashford and Ballyfin, those are the no-brainers. I send people there because I want them to experience that” — if a place can meet her exacting standards, it stands a chance of making the cut. 

“I love Perryville House in Kinsale. Their breakfast is one of the most gorgeous in Ireland.”

Rachel Gaffney on Inis Mór

Gaffney has an eye for perfection, and the custom luggage racks in Perryville’s rooms — no bending down required — merit special mention: “the ergonomics of how you travel was thought about”.

“I’m matchmaking,” Gaffney says of her role as curator of a bespoke offering. “I’m putting clients in the right place for them.” 

The “truly spectacular” Dunluce Lodge in Co Antrim, is one of her recent discoveries, and only opened its doors this spring.

“When I visited, they were working on a putting green, which will be the largest putting green in Ireland. It’s for the residents. So, in the evening, you can sit overlooking the sand dunes and the fourth fairway of Royal Portrush and the ocean. Then, if you like, you can walk outside and practice your putting by a fire pit.”

Gaffney likes to immerse herself in a place. “I sit in bars and restaurants by myself. I talk to people. I want to see what’s happening in the area. I want to get a feel for the area, a sense of it. 

I want to be able to tell my clients, ‘when you drive out the driveway and take a left, you can continue that coast road or you can take a fork…’”

She rates Clare, calling the county one that’s “really starting to punch above its weight”, and namechecks Doolin’s Fiddle and Bow — “the natural colours, the simplicity, the bare floorboards; they brought the outside in” — and the Michelin-starred Homestead Cottage: “It’s literally in the middle of nowhere.”

“I’m finding some of the best hospitality is in the most inaccessible places. If I send people, they’ll throw the red carpet out for them. They’ll just be so delighted to have you.” Cork is close to her heart too, with one of her “most favourite hotels”, Clonakilty’s Dunmore House, sparking memories of a past trip. Gaffney had spontaneously decided to organise a morning yoga class for a group of ladies on an adjacent tiny beach and the hotel staff stepped up to elevate their experience.

After the yoga “what happened was these women, who were in their 60s and 70s, forgot themselves. They were running up and down to the water, making sandcastles. The head gardener had made a fresh-flower crown for the creator of the best one,” Gaffney recalls.

“The hotel staff brought us blankets and a picnic of strawberries and fruit from their garden and cheeses from the English Market. We were still there at four in the afternoon. It was the best day ever. Then the ladies went back to the hotel and had this fabulous dinner and sang songs in the bar. Just magical. That’s luxury.”

Rachel loves:

  • Wilder Townhouse, Adelaide Rd, D2: “It was a mansion for retired school governesses. The history in that building is so interesting.”
  • Vandeleur Walled Gardens, Kilrush, Co Clare: “Spectacular.”
  • Barrow House in Tralee: “A white Georgian manor house overlooking Barrow Bay.
  • Ekotree knitwear, Doolin, Co Clare: “The finest cashmere gloves I’ve ever seen.”
Bog & Thunder’s Kate McCabe and Max Sussman.

Kate McCabe and Max Sussman

Bog & Thunder

Dubliner Maeve Brennan, a staff writer for The New Yorker in the last century, had no time for cliches about her homeland, decrying “the bog and thunder variety of stuff that has been foisted abroad in the name of Ireland”. 

Her adjectives provided the perfect name for McCabe and Sussman’s bespoke travel business, which has an eco-tourism and sustainability focus and operates out of the duo’s Ann Arbor, Michigan base.

“We’re trying to frame Ireland as the modern country that it is. We love the Aran sweaters and we love sheep and we love pubs and all that kind of stuff. But Ireland is so much more than that,” McCabe says.

“We do three types of travel,” explains Sussman, who’s also a chef. “Private itineraries for people who want to plan their own trip; group trips, and retreats.”

The retreats are “a way for us to get more deeply embedded in a specific place,” McCabe says.

For their third annual writing retreat this year, they are staying in Within The Village, “a really special place” in Roundstone, Co Galway.

Last year, Max cooked for the group, and they enjoyed a pop-up by Westmeath-based chef Rose Greene of sustainable fermented food business 4Hands Studio. 

Bespoke food tours and curated culinary experiences are a large part of the Bog & Thunder offering.

Two decades ago, New Jersey native McCabe, whose dad is from Tullamore and has connections to Belfast through her maternal grandmother, was “doing political work around some of the outstanding issues of the peace process” as a college student, and it led to her travelling to Derry and Belfast.

After graduation, she continued to visit Ireland and Max, whom she’d met in college, came too. 

“We don’t do typical food tours,” explains McCabe, whose background is in environmental policy and sustainability. “When we design our tours, we usually have a theme or a narrative that we’re telling throughout the tour. We’re doing a tour in August with Youngmi Mayer, a Korean-American comedian whose paternal grandmother is from Cork. She just published a memoir where she talks about being Irish and not really being accepted for being Irish because she looks Korean. She’s never been to Ireland before.”

Everyone will “eat amazing food”, McCabe says, and there will be talks on “Irish history and colonisation and immigration and emigration, to ground people in the themes that Youngmi talks about in her book.”

Bog & Thunder lead a group around The Burren

The duo like the value of involving people “who aren’t necessarily guides” in the tour conversations and are also passionate about “trying to translate to people, whether they come on guided trips or do our private itineraries, how much of a multicultural nation Ireland is”.

They feel hidden Ireland still exists, but like Gaffney, emphasise the need to venture off the beaten track to find it. “Give yourself a little bit of time and freedom to explore a little bit. Every time we’re in Ireland, we meet new people who are doing incredible things.”

Once again, the Antrim coast comes up. “One of our favourite bakeries in Ireland is Ursa Minor in Ballycastle.” Lir, a seafood restaurant in Coleraine, also gets the nod. “We like to send people there,” McCabe says.

“It’s a very beautiful spot, they’re very into sustainable seafood, and sustainability is a pillar of our organisation. We like to connect travellers with people that are really walking the walk and actually translating their ethics into the food that they serve in their restaurants.”

Another sustainable seafood spot they love is Goldie, on Oliver Plunkett Street in Cork, while the city’s Izz Café is cited as a “great example of an immigrant couple who moved to Ireland and started a food business”.

Baltimore’s two Michelin star Dede, which they acknowledge as likely to be already on people’s radar, is “one of the best restaurants in Ireland”.

One of the things that makes it really special, in addition to the food, is how warm and hospitable it is,” McCabe says.

“And I’d be remiss if we were to talk about Co Cork and not mention our dear friend, Sally Barnes, the only fish smoker on the island of Ireland to work exclusively with wild fish, which is something that we consider really important.”

Since 2022, McCabe and Sussman have hosted a podcast, Dyed Green, exploring Irish food and culture, and the duo have “a medium-term goal of moving to Ireland. We’d love to own and operate a B&B with a food component one day.”

Bog & Thunder love:

  • Native Guest House, Ballydehob: We just organised a private writing retreat for some clients there.
  • Seaweed & Saltwater camper vans: For travellers who really want to get off the beaten path and travel sustainably, they have a small fleet of eco-friendly luxury Mercedes Sprinter camper vans. They’re both off-grid AND high end, and you can shower and enjoy a good night’s sleep on quality sheets.
  • Dingle Sea Salt: A project run by Tom Leach & Moe McKeown, two surfer-scientists who hand harvest and use polytunnels to evaporate all of their salt.
Ginger Aarons at Torr Head

Ginger Aarons

Time Travel Tours

Yes, it’s her real name, Ginger Aarons tells me over Zoom from Portland, mentioning the Duke of Abercorn is also a sceptic: “he can’t imagine anybody would ever christen me Ginger”. 

That impressive namedrop is a clue as to one of Aarons’s areas of expertise, genealogy; the flame-haired entrepreneur is also a master gardener, and combines these passions in her bespoke travel business, Time Travel Tours.

She’s been bringing clients to Ireland to find their lineage since 1998, and can trace her own paternal Maguire ancestry back to the Flight of the Earls in the 17th century. 

On her mother’s side, Aarons’s Dublin-born ancestor arrived “in Virginia about 1710”, meaning her US ancestors predate the founding of the United States. “My forefathers fought in the Revolutionary War.”

While her own expertise is considerable — “Ashford Castle uses me for their genealogy” — she recruits experts, such as historic garden consultant and plantsman Neil Porteous and architectural historian Robert O’Byrne, “so that everybody gets a well-rounded look at Ireland and at the history”.

“Taking people around to the gardens in Ireland is fantastic, and I have so much support — at Mount Stewart, Lady Rose came in and they gave us a Champagne welcome. I have great people on the ground.”

Her genealogy tours have a maximum of 12 participants. While they research in libraries and pore over records in great houses, her clients also frequently find themselves in graveyards in search of an ancestor’s resting place, with everyone helping each other in their quest. She has long worked with Historic Houses of Ireland but a new venture will see her promoting education around them and giving “the Irish people more reason to go to these houses, whether it’s for a concert or a country weekend”.

Ginger Aarons in Armagh

Also in the works is an associated educational film, and a book “Dogs of Historic Houses, which is going to be from the dog’s point of view”.

Aarons believes that hidden Ireland is to be found in these historic houses, some of which have new owners who are bringing new life to these “hidden gems”, as they welcome paying guests for the first time and find inventive ways of making their properties generate income.

Over the course of a fortnight, Aarons’s garden tour clients often see three gardens a day, but the pace is never rushed, and food is always an integral part of the tailor-made experience.

“We do a salvia class at Jimmy Blake’s and then go to Russborough House for lunch and a history tour. We’ll meet the Royal Horticultural Society of Ireland volunteers who look after the walled garden at Russborough, and then go to June Blake’s [near Blessington] for afternoon tea.”

This September, Aarons’s garden enthusiasts will be enjoying cookery lessons from Paul Flynn at Dungarvan’s The Tannery, another “hidden gem”, and stopping off at Manning’s Food Emporium, near Ballylickey in Cork.

“I’ve been going there for 25 years. We’ve had little kids come in and do their music and dancing. Then we’d have our picnic lunch and go to Bantry House for the history and the gardens. We’ll be doing that again.”

A new trend Aarons has noticed is more people visting Ireland for sport.

“They want to see games, even if it’s a local hurling or soccer game. People are very interested in what Irish people do in daily life.”

Ginger loves:

  • Enniscoe House, Co Mayo. “You can do a lot of walking and fishing, enjoy a glass of whiskey by the fire, and they allow dogs stay.”
  • Dunraven Arms Hotel, Adare, Co Limerick: “A great little hidden gem.”
  • virtualtreasury.ie: A virtual reconstruction of the Record Treasury and its records which were lost in a fire in 1922. “You can research your ancestry, and look up wills and all kinds of letters on there.”



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