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A love letter to Edinburgh in August

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Tomorrow, the Scottish capital of Edinburgh once again comes alive for August as five first-class festivals take over every corner of the city. In celebration, I’ve reminisced on my previous month-long stint covering the festivals, and how August in Edinburgh is truly life-affirming and life-changing.

Dear Edinburgh Festivals

Thank you for the month-long journey of highs and lows, of laughter and tears, of new friends and new experiences. Thank you for celebrating in every corner of your city, for being so welcoming, prepared and ready to share your secret places with the world.

Even after a month here, I struggle to explain to people what August in Edinburgh is like. It’s impossible to capture in words the atmosphere that all your talented musicians, comedians, actors and creatives create. Nor can I explain with clarity the soul-searching conversations you drive – or the hangovers and late nights, because time always runs away in your company. Instead, I’ll show people this letter to tell them what Edinburgh in August is like.

It was an honour to be your first blogger in residence, to spend weeks getting to know the five festivals you throw – although years would be needed to see everything August has to offer. Most famous of course is your Fringe festival, which camps out in dark little pubs through to world-class venues, takes over public gardens, squares and the imagination of many. That turns the Royal Mile into a stage for ideas, laughter and a place for anyone who has the budget to perform to come from all corners of the world and put on their show. 

I ended up semi-naked in a bed dressed as a bee – on stage, I hasten to add, not because of the beer gardens. I found myself dancing through crowds of people to nothing but the music in my headphones before being reduced to tears in a park with a one-man show. 

Edinburgh in August

I was wowed by the insane talent at the International festivals, right through to the final curtain call, or rather fireworks, which danced in the sky to the orchestra’s epically timed performance underneath.

I witnessed ballet and opera of a stupendous quality, laughed along with the cast of Midsummer in what felt like an open wedding invite, and took countless photos of your talented casts. The curated programme you put in each year is a credit to your team’s dedication.

Everyone I met who works for the festivals shares the same passion, and moments spent watching Leith Theatre being brought back to life by John Rabb, or understanding how you curate a city with Sorcha, I’ll never forget.

Extended art festivals can quickly become dull. But here? Oh no. A programme curated throughout the city, which opens up overlooked corners, that for the most part is free, makes art seem more open and welcome to those of us who might not always understand it.

Art late, with its whirlwind tour of music and installations, was washed down perfectly with Edinburgh gin. I baked pizzas in ovens while watching curated magic, got lost within lingering music in a reflective church. All of these unique offerings of your programme are a testament to the diversity you create each August.

Of course, the city’s setting helps. The magical feel of the Royal Mile, the buzzing Grassmarket, the Meadows where circus is reinvented, and your crowning glory, Edinburgh Castle.

Edinburgh Royal Military Tattoo

The precision and talent on display each night at the Royal Military Tattoo is the perfect show to be set against the castle’s backdrops. I’ll never forget the first time I saw the Tattoo. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I left with the hairs on my arms erect.

The energy, the electricity, the showcase of cultures from countries all around the globe performing in tandem make for one of the greatest spectacles in the U.K., if not the world. And this year, the world was out in force both in the audience and on stage. With the Female marching band of Oman, the epic Basel secret drum corps and Mexico’s purpose-made band, you excelled in bringing so many cultures alive on the esplanade of your city’s most iconic attraction.

And finally – but perhaps most importantly – to the book festival, which moved me in ways I didn’t expect. I thought I’d come away with a few paperbacks, but I came away with a new appreciation for freedom. A new appreciation for the written and spoken word. A new appreciation for the power of literacy.

Whether it was at free readings or ticketed debates, late-night music performances open to all or last-minute author meets and greets after complicated visas finally came through, the programme of the International Book Festival is exactly that. Your focus on diversity, tolerance and broaching difficult subjects is to me what makes Edinburgh retain a piece of my heart.

Edinburgh Book Festival

Scotland is a country with a global presence and pride in its diversity, and the festivals in August celebrate that. You should be proud. All of you festivals and every citizen for setting that stage.

Your festivals push our boundaries and shake our confidence. Yet you still find ways for others to be an outside spectator if they wish to. Everyone’s Edinburgh festival experience will be different, but I think it’s an experience everyone should have once in their life.

Where else in the world does a whole city become the festival? Does everyone, whether planned or inadvertently, become part of the event? Where do a multitude of ideas, discussions and entertainment forms come to life? 

The answer is simple and sole: August in Edinburgh. 

Edinburgh, you are the Festival City. Thank you. Thank you for being the perfect host.

Yours in laughter, tears, awe and gratitude,
Dan 



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The 8 Safest Solo Travel Destinations for Women in 2025

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Safety is subjective, and never something that can be guaranteed 100% — especially when traveling abroad to a new place. But with a bit of planning and making a strategic choice about where you visit, your next solo trip doesn’t have to come with a side of constant vigilance. The onus often falls on women to vet their destinations, take precautions, and plan for the worst-case scenario — but choosing a safe destination can give you the headspace to relax and enjoy the trip.

Slovenia

Image Credit: Shutterstock.

Slovenia’s quaint capital city, Ljubljana, is compact, welcoming, and easy to navigate on foot. With well-connected transit, a strong sense of order, and a low crime rate, it’s a destination that feels manageable from the moment you arrive. You won’t find yourself second-guessing which route you took home or clenching your bag on public transport. English is widely spoken, and the logistics of getting around are manageable, whether it be by train, bus, or rental car. It’s the kind of place where things tend to work, and the locals are friendly and willing to help if something doesn’t go as planned.

Beyond the capital, places like Lake Bled and Piran see their fair share of visitors, but without the chaos that often comes with bigger, more crowded European destinations. In the countryside, you’ll find hiking trails, alpine lakes, and small towns that are accessible and approachable. For solo female travelers, Slovenia is a great place for getting out into nature without having to be hyper-aware of your surroundings.

Japan

Image Credit: Shutterstock.

Few countries make solo travel feel as seamless as Japan. The trains run on time, the streets are clean, and no one will ask why you’re alone. In fact, solitude is built into the culture — from single-counter ramen restaurants to capsule hotels that prioritize privacy, you’ll find plenty of spaces designed specifically for people doing things on their own.

That said, Japan isn’t frictionless. There’s a learning curve to getting around, especially once you head outside of the major city centers — train signage can be limited, and Google Maps won’t always help you perfectly navigate rural areas. But even if you do get lost, odds are someone will offer to help point you in the right direction.

Canada

Image Credit: Alec Sills-Trausch.

Canada’s politeness cliché is overused, but there’s definitely some truth behind it. The social contract among Canadians is strong — the majority of the time, you’ll be able to go about your day without being interrupted, harassed, or followed. Solo travel won’t raise eyebrows, and even giving away the fact that you’re a foreigner by asking for directions doesn’t feel like you’re inviting unwanted attention or risk.

Whether you’re hiking alone in British Columbia, navigating the Toronto subway, or shopping in Quebec City’s old town, most people will leave you alone — in a good way. You can blend in easily and take up space without feeling like you’re being observed.

Taiwan

Image Credit: Shutterstock

Taiwan is one of those places where things just run smoothly. The subway shows up on time, the night markets feel welcoming, and people generally keep to themselves. It’s easy to wander solo here because you won’t be treated like a spectacle — particularly in Taipei, it’s not uncommon to bump into other solo female travelers.

Outside the capital, other cities like Tainan or Kaohsiung offer even more reasons to visit. Taiwan’s regional trains are easy to navigate, and friendly locals will be quick to offer help if you look lost. Taiwan is a rare destination that makes solo travel feel totally doable, and a great place to start if you’ve never taken a trip on your own before.

Uruguay

Image Credit: byvalet/Shutterstock.

What sets Uruguay apart in Latin America is how low-pressure it feels, especially for solo women. The bus system works, street harassment is minimal, and you won’t be met with the kind of negative attention that sometimes happens elsewhere in the region. Montevideo feels down-to-earth, not like a tourist trap — on the main beachside promenade, you’ll pass couples drinking mate, joggers even after dark, and women walking alone without a second thought.

Locals are kind, curious, and generally patient with the language barrier — especially if you try to use a little bit of Spanish. If you are planning a solo trip to LatAm and want an easier, lower-friction experience, Uruguay should be at the top of your list.

New Zealand

Image Credit: Depositphotos

New Zealand’s safety is all about social trust — the sense that most people here are good humans, and daily life is designed with that assumption in mind. You’ll notice it in the way people leave their belongings unsupervised, how strangers greet each other on hiking trails, and how someone always seems to offer help before you even have to ask. For solo women, that baseline level of comfort means you can stop looking over your shoulder and actually enjoy what you’re there to do — whether that’s to explore or just relax.

Cities like Wellington and Christchurch are manageable, and it rarely feels like you need to be on high alert. Of course, you should always use common sense, especially if you’re heading into the mountains alone. But if you’re looking for a place that feels adventurous without feeling risky, New Zealand is a solid choice.

South Korea

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Even though it’s a massive, sprawling city with over 9 million people, Seoul is surprisingly safe for solo female travelers. You can walk home at 2am, eat at a restaurant alone, or hop on and off the subway without thinking twice. There’s a strong respect for personal space, and street harassment is extremely rare. For women used to walking around with a mental safety checklist, it’ll be a nice change of pace.

There are a few social dynamics that might be hard to interpret for outsiders at first, but from a safety perspective, it’s a great country even for exploring on your own, especially if you’re a less experienced solo traveler. You can arrive in Seoul without knowing a soul — and still feel totally capable of navigating your way around.

Iceland

Image Credit: Depositphotos

Even if you’re out hiking in the middle of nowhere, there’s something oddly comforting about being alone in Iceland — it’s one of the few places in the world where solitude feels like it’s the default. Reykjavik is compact, friendly, and perfect for using as a base to explore the rest of the island. It’s easy to navigate on foot, and you’ll find plenty of women traveling solo — especially in hostels, cafés, or guided tours that often leave from the city center.

That being said, the nature here is no joke. The weather is harsh and can change fast, even in the middle of summer. If you’re planning to rent a car to drive the Ring Road alone, make sure you have a flexible itinerary, proper gear, and a way to get in contact with someone in case of an emergency. It’s one of the safest countries in the world, as long as you’re prepared for the elements.

Final Thoughts:

Image Credit: Shutterstock

This list isn’t meant to cause panic or make you rethink your international travel plans — in fact, you just might feel more at ease in a new environment or different culture. But a little planning ahead never goes to waste, and choosing a destination where the baseline level of safety provides a headstart can make all the difference. It’s not about eliminating every risk, but to give yourself the chance to relax and enjoy the trip you’ve been looking forward to for months.



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12 Fantastic Indian Restaurants in NYC

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Dhamaka continues to challenge the expectations of what Indian flavors can taste like—and diners can’t seem to get enough of it.

Adam Friedlander

Tamarind Tribeca

Chef-owner Avtar Walia has been something of a trailblazer in the New York City Indian dining landscape, ever since he convinced culinary doyenne and actress Madhur Jaffrey to open Dawat in 1986 in Manhattan. Since 2001, he’s been the force behind Tamarind, a Tribeca institution that revolutionized the approach to Indian fine dining in New York. The tasteful interiors are an elegant backdrop to refined dishes like lobster masala, prawn curry, and Nizami kheema. There may be no shortage of trendy new openings in the city these days, but Tamarind’s staying power speaks for itself.

Vatan

I could tell you about this Murray Hill fixture, but some things just need to be seen to be believed. The Third Avenue façade doesn’t begin to prepare you for what lies within: My jaw hit the floor when I walked into the unexpectedly cavernous dining room modeled after a traditional Gujarati village, complete with faux trees, thatched-roof booths, murals of pastoral Indian vignettes, and a massive Ganesh statue presiding over it all. Make sure you get comfortable in your booth because you’re unlikely to leave anytime soon: Vatan’s prix-fixe $45 vegetarian menu is an all-you-can eat bonanza. A massive thali is regularly refreshed with samosas, sev puris, bhaji, daal, chole, and much more on demand, plus endless ice cream and gulab jamun if you make it that far. Between the endless food and the quirky interiors, this is a place you’ll want to settle into for a while.

Dhamaka

Dhamaka means explosion, and that’s exactly how this colorful Lower East Side spot landed in New York in 2021. The Unapologetic Foods takeover of New York’s Indian restaurant scene may have begun with Adda (originally in Long Island City and recently transplanted to the East Village) and cemented with Semma, but it’s when Dhamaka opened that I first realized that Indian food enthusiasts in the city were in the throes of a culinary zeitgeist.  Restaurateur Roni Mazumdar and chef Chintan Pandya were the first team brazen enough to make food exactly how they wanted it, without dialing back ingredients (goat kidney and testicles, anyone?) or spice levels to cater to Western palates. The result was an instant hit with Indian diners eager for authentic flavors beyond butter chicken, and guided everyone else to push their boundaries and expectations of what Indian flavors could taste like. It may have inspired a legion of other restaurants to follow in its footsteps, but Dhamaka, with its colorful interiors and banging Bollywood soundtrack, is always a winner.

Brooklyn

Lore

I’m not sure why Lore isn’t one of the hardest-to-get reservations in New York, but at least that means chef Jayesh Kumar’s Park Slope spot has managed to retain its neighborhood charm—for now. Get there ASAP to try Kumar’s inventive menu, that leans on his South Indian roots and European training (he spent decades in Switzerland before opening Lore in 2022), and like me, you’ll be wondering what kind of a mad genius thought up unlikely mash-ups like roti ravioli, kimchi uttapam, and a steak au poivre with masala butter and fries. Kumar also recently launched a dosa stand at Smorgasburg, and will be opening a bar called Folk (get it?) in Park Slope later this summer—with creative globally inspired cocktails and clever small plates like biryani arancini on the menu.

Lore in Park Slope straddles leans chef Jayesh Kumar’s South Indian roots and European training.

Sukhbir Channa/Lore

The sea bream at Lore is coated with malabar spices and served with hot red chutney.

Sukhbir Channa/Lore

Indian Table

With its distinctive tangy flavor profiles and heady Portuguese influence, the cuisine of the tiny western state of Goa is unlike any other in India—but it can be hard to come by in the city, aside from appearances by vindaloos or the occasional poee bread on menus. But when I’m missing Goa’s famous susegad—laid-back—way of life, I make my way to Cobble Hill’s Indian Table, where Goan chef Eric McCarthy guides diners through a deep dive through classics from his home state: think chicken cafreal, ros omelette, and pork sorpotel, and plenty of coastal classics like the kalchi kodi fish curry and crab cutlets. The dining room, clad in Portuguese-style tiles, is cozy, but when the weather is sultry you’ll want to grab a seat on the back patio stung with fairy lights and feel transported to a veranda in Assagao.

Queens

Angel Indian Restaurant

It’s hard to play favorites in Jackson Heights—you could eat well in this multicultural hub brimming with Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi, and Nepali restaurants for weeks without ever going back to the same spot twice. Angel, however, merits many a return. It’s been a local hit ever since it opened in 2019 (Bungalow chef Vikas Khanna is a big fan), with everything from a standout take on the all-too-familiar butter chicken to dishes like lotus root kofta that are rarer to spot on New York menus, plus plush naans you’ll want to swathe yourself in. But the star here is the dum biryani—in vegetarian, chicken, and goat varieties—that comes shrouded beneath a crust of bread. When the server carves it open to mix the layers together and releases wisps of steam that linger over your table, that’s your signal to feast.

Note: The space may feel a bit snug, but the owners just opened a second, sleeker location not too far away from the original.

Raja Sweets and Fast Food

Feeling snack-y? This Jackson Heights vegetarian joint is something of an institution for its dizzying array of fried treats and chaat, those textural flavor bombs that are the perfect union of savory, sweet, crunchy, and tangy. Start with some samosas and pakoras, then chase orders of sev puri, papri chaat, and aloo bhatura with refreshing mango lassi and lemon soda water. But if you’re thinking about satisfying your chaat cravings during a heat wave like I did recently, calibrate your order based on how much spice you can handle under a handful of lazily whirring fans.

Hindu Temple Canteen

You’d never guess from the outside that the majestic Ganesh Temple in Queens houses a basement canteen serving some of the city’s most authentic South Indian cuisine. Since 1993, the Temple Canteen has perfected South Indian staples like pillowy idlis, crispy dosas, and thick, buttery uttapams—all best dunked in a silky coconut chutney. The ghee pongal (rice and lentils with clarified butter) is gentle and hearty, a regular on my takeaway rotation. It’s a no-frills spot where bustling aunties keep the weekend crowds flowing efficiently while massive dosas sail past, stuffed with everything from classic potato masala to more adventurous paneer fillings. My weakness? The Pondicherry dosa—a triangular beauty spread with spicy chutney and a savory mixture that delivers serious heat. Paired with piping hot Madras tea, sweetened with enough sugar to temper the spice in the best possible way. Pallavi Kumar



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Women at the helm: an all-female sailing weekend on the Norfolk Broads | Norfolk holidays

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Our yacht was in its element. With sunshine gleaming off the chestnut spars and a north-northeasterly fattening the sails, Windsong ripped across the mere, cocked at a jaunty angle, kicking up waves of joy. It was like a wild horse galloping through surf, ebullient, powerful and graceful. Only this “wild horse” was under the control of skipper Els Robinson and, to a far, far lesser extent, me. When the cry of “Come about!” came about, my jobs were to trim the jib (the small triangular sail at the front, I’d just learned) and not get hit by the boom. Oh, and to enjoy the ride.

I’d come to the Norfolk Broads to join a women’s Wellbeing on the Water weekend. I grew up on the Broads. In fact, I grew up just across the fields from Upton Dyke, where Eastwood Whelpton sailing holidays is based. But I never sailed. I didn’t know anyone who did, so it never crossed my mind that I could.

“Our ethos is to make sailing accessible to everyone,” explained Suzy Strowger, the company’s office manager. “Sailing has been perceived elitist, and has been largely male dominated. Our women’s weekends are about making sailing affordable and accessible to a demographic that’s under-represented at the moment.”

Sailing is more than moving a boat, Suzy added: “It’s a wellbeing activity that can particularly benefit women.” She sees women with full-time caring roles or high-pressure jobs come along, looking to support their health and manage stress.

The weekend certainly got off to a stress-free start, as we met each other over prosecco and cake in the boatyard. There were 15 of us: some solos, some in pairs, mostly 45-plus, ranging in ability from competent to rusty to total beginner, and here for different reasons.

For Katharine, it was about “having a new experience and getting away from life in general”. Jo was on her third Eastwood Whelpton trip: “I just enjoy the peace of getting out on the water.” Helen was drawn to the idea “because too often men take the helm – and there’s something special about adventuring with other women, isn’t there?”

The writer learning the ropes: ‘I took a turn at the helm, concentrating on not steering into the banks, boathouses or other yachts.’ Photograph: Sarah Baxter

There clearly is. Women-only travel – particularly active travel – is on the rise, and companies are cottoning on. According to the Adventure Travel Trade Association’s 2024 Industry Outlook report, of the companies taking steps to diversify their target markets, 38% are targeting women; “women over 50 travelling solo” was flagged as a specific trend. Also, more larger tour operators are now offering women-only departures while specialist companies are seeing increased demand: for example, when WalkingWomen launched in 2021, it offered 31 female-only small-group hiking holidays; this year its programme features more than 70.

An all-female environment tends to encourage women to push their limits, especially when the guides are women too. On this Norfolk weekend, our group was split across a flotilla of five boats, each one helmed by a female skipper – which is far more unusual than it should be in 2025. The skippers seemed as excited about that as we were.

Jo and I were buddied up and allocated to Windsong, a traditional, 30ft (nine-metre) gaff-rigged yacht, crafted in the 1980s by a Norfolk boat builder, and an absolute beaut. It has sleek wooden insides, an ingenious pop-top and numerous drawers and cubbyholes (which Suzy had stuffed full of food). One of the first conversations Jo and I had was about who was most likely to pee in the night (she took the bed squeezed into the bow, next to the hand-pump loo; I slept in the main saloon). You have to bond quickly when living in close quarters.

Els, our skipper, was commander-in-chief of the whole fleet. Before we hauled anchor, she unrolled a map and explained the plan for the weekend. First we’d motor the short distance to Thurne and moor up for the night; we’d spend Saturday sailing to Horsey, where a windpump (a windmill used to pump water) rises from coastal marshland once known as Devil’s Country; we’d sail back on Sunday. Mixed in would be boat breakfasts, picnic lunches and pub dinners, plus a few leisurely walks, some morning yoga, and an optional sea swim.

I liked boat life immediately. We drifted down mazy channels, looked across the vastness of reeds, spotted herons, marsh harriers on the hunt, even an osprey – one of the pair that arrived at nearby Ranworth Broad this spring. It was a bit of a moving meditation, too. The speed limit never exceeds 6mph; sometimes it’s just 3mph. “Life today is so go, go, go,” Els reflected, steering us towards Thurne’s restored windmill. “We need to slow down sometimes.”

Watching Els at work was part of the joy: she was calm, intuitive, in total symbiosis with the boat. It was tempting to let her get on with it, but she was keen for us to try, but only if we wanted to.

I took a turn at the helm, concentrating on not steering into the banks, the boathouses, the other yachts or the regal black-sailed Norfolk wherry that glided by. I helped hoist the sails, lower the sails and hoist them again, learned about reefing and rudimentary knots, and assisted with bringing down the mast so we could just about scrape under Potter Heigham’s medieval bridge.

Eastwood Whelpton runs official Royal Yachting Association sailing courses, but the wellbeing weekends are quite different. According to Suzy, some women come to refresh their skills, others to read books and drink gin.

A grey heron above the reed beds of the Norfolk broads. Photograph: Geoff du Feu/Alamy

Speaking of which, after a day on the water, cheeks ruddied by sun and wind, we moored at Horsey for “anchor drams” (cocktails), then took a walk over the marsh to the dunes. Some 3,245 grey seal pups were born here last winter. On the beach itself, a lone seal popped up from the grey-green surf to say hello.

Three of us stripped to our swimmers to join it. It was chilly, choppy and frustratingly shallow, but made me realise that I never regret a sea dip. The biggest challenge was getting changed afterwards: the north wind blew away my towel and my dignity. But did it matter? We were, after all, all girls together here.

We ended up in the Nelson Head, a proper old pub; a sign inside read “We don’t have wifi – talk to each other”. Which we did, sharing stories about how life has changed (or not) for women over recent years. The ladies spoke of having mothers who thought marriage and babies were all they could achieve, and of how their own daughters think they’re boring but don’t see the barriers they’ve broken down. Johanna threw in her graduation story: she came top of her (mostly male) class at London Business School but “when the chairman gave me my certificate and shook my hand, said, ‘I love to see a smiling blonde!’”

That night, as the night before, I slept in dozes, lullabied by Windsong’s gurgles, slurps, creaks and groans. I woke early, and crept out into a chorus of blackbirds, redstarts, warblers and cuckoos. At 7.30am there would be a yoga session under a tree, but I wasn’t sure how much more relaxed it could make me. I hadn’t become a skilled sailor, but I had thoroughly enjoyed this maidens’ voyage.

The trip was provided by Eastwood Whelpton. Its next Women on the Water Wellbeing Weekends start 12 Sept and 15 May 2026, from £433pp. Places are also available on women-only boats on its Norfolk Race Week (5-10 Oct, from £705pp)



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