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14 family-friendly road trips from Los Angeles for Labor Day weekend

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Sometimes the best family adventures start with just a few hours on the road. From mountain escapes to beachside retreats, these destinations make it easy to swap city life for fresh air, wide-open spaces and plenty of kid-friendly fun. Check out (and check in at) these top family road trip destinations from Los Angeles that deliver big memories.

Looking for even more Labor Day travel inspiration? Check out our favorite day trips and farther-flung road trip ideas.

Photograph: Courtesy Ana Lui/Rosewood MiramarRosewood Miramar

Santa Barbara

Distance: 2hrs by car, 3hrs by train (Amtrak Pacific Surfliner)

Santa Barbara blends small-town charm with a touch of glamour, all framed by golden beaches and mountain views. Spend mornings building sandcastles at East Beach, feeding giraffes at the Santa Barbara Zoo, exploring the historic Stearns Wharf’s aquarium or letting little ones loose in kid-centric MOXI’s hands-on science exhibits. Montecito adds a more serene touch with oceanfront strolls, boutique shopping and plenty of shaded patios for family lunches. If a stop is needed, take a quick detour off the 101 in Ventura to stroll the pier or grab fish tacos from Spencer Makenzie’s before continuing up the coast.

Where to stay: The Rosewood Miramar in Montecito offers direct beachfront access, lawn games and roomy suites—including standalone bungalows that provide a sense of privacy with the littlest of travelers. There’s even an ice cream shop on-property and the railway passes through the property, which would delight any train-obsessed toddler. Just a stone’s throw away is the famous and ultra-private San Ysidro Ranch. The idyllic hotel is set up with storybook cottages set against the Santa Ynez Mountains and across 550 acres. Families could explore the blooming gardens, hike around the property or splash in the heated pool. Alternatively (and far more affordably), Hilton Santa Barbara is steps from the Funk Zone’s dining and galleries. With six new pickleball courts that sport sweeping ocean views and a new luxury spa, the coastal getaway checks the box for kids and adults. Plus, less than a mile away from the Hilton is the SB Zoo—try to spot the flamingo named Hilty in honor of the resort.

Time Out tip: The Pacific Surfliner drops you just two blocks from the beach—kids will love watching the ocean roll by from their seat. When staying at the Rosewood Miramar, watch the train zoom by every 2 to 3 hours from 10am to 8pm. On Thursdays catch a kid-friendly movie under the stars by the Manor Pool. The hotel has also partnered with nearby Godmothers Bookstore in Summerland for a monthly storytime. Check their website for details.

Photograph: Shutterstock/f11photo

San Diego

Distance: 2.5hrs by car, 3hrs by train (Amtrak Pacific Surfliner)

San Diego is a playground for all ages, from the world-famous San Diego Zoo to Balboa Park’s sprawling gardens and interactive museums. Mission Bay’s calm waters are perfect for beginner paddleboarders, while Seaport Village offers old-fashioned carousel rides and sweet treats. Evenings are made for strolling Little Italy’s lively streets, where the food scene ranges from casual pizza to fresh seafood.

Where to stay: Located in the historic Gaslamp Quarter, the Omni San Diego Hotel has baseball-themed rooms overlooking Petco Park (and connected to the hotel via a pedestrian skywalk), while the new Gaylord Pacific Resort promises multiple pools, slides and on-site dining for every craving. For the biggest Padres fans, book the 33 Series rooms or suites on floors 16 through 19 for unique vantage points looking into the ballpark.

Time Out tip: Many Balboa Park museums rotate free-admission Tuesdays—plan ahead and you could explore for free.

Photograph: Benjamin Mark Demarest / ShutterstockPowerhouse Park in Del Mar

Del Mar

Distance: 2hrs by car, 3hrs by train (Amtrak Pacific Surfliner to Solana Beach + short ride share)

Del Mar’s wide sandy beaches and easy-going vibe make it the perfect spot to slow down. Kids can run free at the grassy, ocean-overlooking Powerhouse Park before heading down to the shoreline to play in the sand or hunt for seashells. If you’re visiting in early October, check out the Del Mar Harvest Festival & Original Craft Show at the Del Mar Fairgrounds. The world-famous Del Mar Racetrack wraps up their summer season in early September with family-friendly programming; the fall season (Oct 30–Nov 30) culminates with the prestigious Breeders’ Cup World Championships.

Where to stay: Fairmont Grand Del Mar has kid-friendly pools, horseback riding trails and plenty of green space for kids to run free. While Del Mar is located more inland, venture closer to the quaint, coastal neighborhood of La Jolla for stays at the Lodge at Torrey Pines, La Valencia and Hilton La Jolla.

Time Out tip: Arrive at Powerhouse Park early—it’s the best way to snag a picnic spot with an ocean view.

Photograph: Courtesy Carmel Valley RanchCarmel Valley Ranch

Carmel-by-the-Sea

Distance: 5.5hrs by car

Carmel-by-the-Sea feels like stepping into a fairy tale, with whimsical cottages, white-sand beaches, and cobblestone streets with cafes and quaint shops made for exploring. Upon arrival, kids can splash in tide pools at Carmel Beach, or take a quick drive inland to the sunshine and greenery of Carmel Valley for family-friendly wineries with lawn games and picnic tables. The longer road trip to California’s central coast inevitably requires a stop—opt for a quick bite in San Luis Obispo at Madonna Inn’s over-the-top pink dining room. 

Where to stay: With 500 acres, Carmel Valley Ranch offers a sprawling playground of activities—from feeding llamas and learning archery to visiting the on-site bee apiary or cooling off in the newly renovated pool and splash zone—set against rolling hills and oak trees. The sprawling resort has launched a partnership with Nuna to offer premium strollers, booster seats, playards, high chairs and baby carriers to make your stay more comfortable. There’s also a special Munchkin Menu with everything from coloring books to bottle warmers, daily s’mores, plus house-made baby food for the youngest guests at Valley Kitchen. Within actual Carmel there are plenty of more affordable accommodations as well—from sleepy inns and smaller boutique hotels to seaside hotel chains. 

Time Out tip: In Monterey (15 minutes from Carmel), the monarch butterfly sanctuary is at its peak from October to February, but it’s still a beautiful place to connect with nature and walk year-round.

Photograph: LEGOLAND California Resort

Carlsbad

Distance: 2hrs by car, 3hrs by train (Amtrak Pacific Surfliner)

Carlsbad is practically built for families thanks to LEGOLAND California, miles of beaches and a walkable downtown lined with ice cream shops and casual cafes. In the fall, the town is dotted with pumpkin patches and harvest fun: Check out the Carlsbad Village Oktoberfest on September 20 with live music, German food and family activities in October; and in November, Carlsbad Village Street Faire (the next one is on November 2), one of the largest in the U.S. It’s an easy blend of activity and relaxation, with something to keep every age group happy.

Where to stay: Connected to the theme park, LEGOLAND Hotel or LEGOLAND Castle Hotel bring the fun indoors with themed rooms, character meet-and-greets and kid-sized amenities.

Time Out tip: Book LEGOLAND tickets online for the lowest prices—and go midweek to avoid long lines. For a midway stop, hit San Clemente for a pier stroll and a doughnut from Sur Coffee before continuing south.

Photograph: Courtesy Dana Point Harbor Partners

Dana Point

Distance: 1hr by car

This laid-back harbor town is a hub for ocean adventures, from whale watching and kayaking to learning about marine life at the Ocean Institute. Baby Beach’s calm, shallow waters make it ideal for young kids to splash safely. The waterfront is lined with casual spots for fish tacos or ice cream, perfect after a day on the water. For restless travelers, make a pit stop at Laguna Niguel Regional Park for a quick playground break and shaded picnic tables.

Where to stay: The beachfront Waldorf Astoria Monarch Beach Resort offers a kid’s club, splash pools and even junior golf clinics. The hotel also houses the Ahma & Co. prenatal retreat for specialized postpartum care, focusing on mothers and newborns. Nearby in Dana Point Harbor, there are more budget-friendly options such as the Blue Lantern Inn, Laguna Cliffs Marriott Resort and Dana Point Marina Inn.

Time Out tip: Dana Point Harbor dubs itself the Whale Watching Capital of the U.S., and for good reason. From fall to winter, it’s a great time to catch gray whale migrations on a boat tour—fun, educational and immersive for families. There’s also the Festival of Whales, typically held over a weekend in early March, when the whole harbor transforms into a celebration of the migration season.

Photograph: HannaTor / Shutterstock.com

Coronado

Distance: 2.5hrs by car, 3hrs by train (Amtrak Pacific Surfliner + 15-minute ride)

Connected to San Diego by its iconic bridge, Coronado is a charming getaway with wide, golden beaches and gentle surf (though sometimes referred to as an island, it’s technically a peninsula). Rent a surrey bike to cruise along the waterfront, stop into local shops for beach gear and grab lunch with a view. It’s a place where the pace slows down and family time takes center stage. The entire peninsula is only about 7 miles long and 1.5 miles across at its widest point. Pop into the Living Coast Discovery Center for hands-on wildlife encounters in nearby Chula Vista.

Where to stay: Hotel del Coronado just underwent a $550 million renovation—the National Historic Landmark built in 1888 combines historic charm with beachfront cabanas and seasonal kids’ programming. The six-year revamp has restored its original Victorian building to its full glory. Ideal for families or large groups traveling together, the hotel-within-a-hotel Shore House at the Del offers residential-style villas and modern beach houses. Plus, there’s underwater virtual reality snorkeling (yes, seriously, it’s a thing) or a family surf lesson at the new Jamie O’Brien Surf Experience—the only surf school founded by the pro surfer in the mainland U.S. Be sure to reserve your spot for Movies on the Beach, where you can enjoy classic films from June to October, on an inflatable screen, toes in the sand and s’mores in hand. Movie night is open to the public, but reservations are required.

Time Out tip: The Del’s Ocean Explorers kids camp is more like a fun classroom with a curriculum and experiences designed to help children learn about ocean life.

Photograph: Michael Juliano

Laguna Beach

Distance: 1hr by car

This sleepy coastal town gained notoriety in the early 2000s thanks to the teen-drama–filled reality show Laguna Beach—but today Laguna Beach is where coastal beauty meets an artsy soul. Spend the morning exploring tide pools or lounging in secluded coves, then head into town for galleries, street art and casual lunch spots. Heisler Park offers ocean-view walking paths and plenty of green space for a family picnic. Make a pit stop at Crystal Cove State Park for a quick beach walk or milkshake from the Crystal Cove Shake Shack.

Where to stay: Montage Laguna Beach has a dedicated Paintbox kids’ club, craft activities and direct beach access. Don’t miss the afternoon poolside s’mores every day, plus check the Paintbox calendar for movie nights and a packed schedule of events to entertain kids of all ages. Studio Mediterranean, the hotel’s latest dining outpost, transports you to Mykonos with stunning Mediterranean flair and delectable eats. The best part? Every corner of the hotel has kids in mind, including at this restaurant where toddlers are given micro stuffies and Etch A Sketch type toys to keep them entertained. Another option is to stay at the nearby Surf & Sand Hotel and enjoy the beach and family dining outlets at Montage.

Time Out tip: Hop on the free Laguna Beach Trolley for an easy, scenic way to explore without moving the car.

Photograph: Courtesy the Resort at Pelican HillThe Resort at Pelican Hill

Newport Beach

Distance: 1hr by car (no direct train)

This harbor town offers classic SoCal fun with a touch of polish. Spend the day at Balboa Fun Zone riding the Ferris wheel, taking a harbor cruise or trying your luck at the arcade. Wide sandy beaches make it easy to set up for a full day by the water. Take a shopping break at the open-air Fashion Island, where lush lawns and a serene koi pond keep kids entertained while parents explore the stores. Lido Marina Village, dotted with upscale boutiques and restaurants, is another family-friendly spot to spend the day. Rent a Duffy electric boat from Lido Marina or Balboa Island for a calm cruise and memorable boat picnic. 

Where to stay: The Resort at Pelican Hill offers bungalow and villa-style stays with pools, kid’s cooking classes and Juniors on Course golf lessons. Boasting one of the world’s largest circular pools, the expansive property is ideal for big groups. The larger format private villas are perfect for multifamily vacations. For kids, there are toys in a chest presented to them at check-in, and you can also prebook a teepee in the room. Be sure to call ahead for a teepee to be set up in the room—the resort also provides bath buckets, LEGO bricks or mermaid tales to surprise even the youngest guests. Though on the pricier side, the resort rents cabanas to non-guests, perfect if you just want to lounge by the pool and enjoy a leisurely lunch.

Time Out tip: Take the short, scenic Balboa Island Ferry ride—it’s a hit with kids and costs just a few dollars.

Photograph: Courtesy Shutterstock

Solvang + Los Olivos

Distance: 2.5hrs by car

Escape to Solvang’s Danish-inspired streets lined with windmills, pastry shops and plenty of charm. Families can hop on a horse-drawn trolley, sample aebleskiver (fluffy pancake balls) or wander into quirky gift shops. Just down the road, Los Olivos offers sprawling lawns at family-friendly wineries and shaded picnic spots.

Where to stay: Experience a luxury dude ranch at Alisal Ranch with horseback riding, fishing, a rodeo, farm animals, ropes course and s’mores nights, all set against 10,500 acres, making it a true family retreat. Make sure to experience the cowboy breakfast, a morning horseback ride to breakfast in the canyons. Closer to Los Olivos is the Inn at Mattei’s Tavern, another luxe Western cabin themed hotel. Splash in the pool and don’t miss the special backyard BBQ on Thursdays. Hotel Inez is a rustic nearby option as well.

Time Out tip: Stop by Ostrichland USA on the edge of town to feed the giant birds—just beware they could get aggressive (but don’t worry, there’s a fence that separates you from the dinosaur-like birds). If you want a calmer animal experience, head to Zaca Creek Ranch to visit the llama farm.

Photograph: Courtesy Omni Rancho Las Palmas Resort & SpaOmni Rancho Las Palmas Resort & Spa

Palm Springs

Distance: 2hrs by car (limited train service; Amtrak Thruway bus service available)

Palm Springs isn’t just for poolside lounging—though there’s plenty of that, too. Sip a date shake from a roadside stand, explore the kid-friendly Palm Springs Air Museum or hike through the palm-filled canyons for a dose of nature. The desert sunsets are worth the trip alone. For a fun stop en route, pull over at Cabazon Dinosaurs (the T. Rex and brontosaurus sculptures of Pee-wee’s Big Adventure fame) for a kitschy photo op and quick snack break. Just southeast of Palm Springs, head to Palm Desert’s Living Desert Zoo and Gardens to see more than 150 species of desert animals from all over the world—sign up for the giraffe feeding experience. During the cooler half of the year, take a toddler-friendly hike in the Indian Canyons (follow the Andreas Canyon Trail) with shady palm groves, gentle seasonal streams and an approximately one-mile loop.

Where to stay: In nearby Rancho Mirage, Omni Rancho Las Palmas has a 425-foot lazy river, water slides and plenty of space for little ones to play. The hotel’s Splashtopia water park features two 100-foot slides, a  sandy beach and water-play zones. There’s also a gaming cabana with arcade favorites, Ping-Pong, air hockey, foosball and a cotton candy machine.

Time Out tip: Arrive on Thursday for the weekly Village Fest, when downtown turns into a lively open-air market.

Photograph: Courtesy Justin Kriel/VRX Studios

Palos Verdes

Distance: 45mins by car

South Bay residents may think of Palos Verdes as home turf, but for most Angelenos it’s a nearby getaway that delivers cliffside views, peaceful beaches and tide pools teeming with life. Families can hike coastal trails or simply enjoy a picnic overlooking the Pacific. It’s an easy escape that feels miles from the bustle of L.A. For a quick detour, stop at the Korean Bell of Friendship in San Pedro for sweeping views of the Palos Verdes Peninsula.

Where to stay: Terranea Resort offers oceanfront suites, a kid’s club and activities like archery, kayaking and paddleboarding. The kid’s club has an interactive lineup of activities including tie-dye, shell art, a meet-a-mermaid experience and painting classes.

Time Out tip: Check tide charts before heading to Abalone Cove—low tide reveals the best marine life.

Photograph: Courtesy Ojai Valley InnOjai Valley Inn

Ojai

Distance: 1.5hrs by car

Ojai’s small-town charm is all about slowing down. Wander through the Sunday farmers’ market, bike under leafy oak trees or browse the town’s art galleries and bookshops. With its mountain backdrop and citrus-scented air, it’s a refreshing reset for the whole family.

Where to stay: Sprawling across 220 scenic acres, Ojai Valley Inn offers a kid’s camp, art classes and four pools set in a serene valley. Here, it’s all about reconnecting with nature—from horseback riding and beekeeping experiences to tie-dye and beaded jewelry workshops, there’s something for every age. The property also offers Camp Oak, a year-round service designed for kids ages 4 through 12 with full-day, half-day and night camp programming.

Time Out tip: Take a quick drive to Lake Casitas, a rugged reservoir just to the west. Time your visit for the “pink moment” at sunset, when the surrounding mountains glow in soft pastel hues.

Photograph: Michael Juliano for Time OutScenic Sky Chair at Snow Summit in Big Bear Lake

Big Bear

Distance: 2hrs by car

Nestled in the San Bernardino Mountains, Big Bear offers a refreshing alpine retreat just a couple of hours from Los Angeles. In winter, it transforms into a snowy playground ideal for skiing, snow tubing and building snowmen. During the warmer months, the mood shifts to hiking trails, lake adventures and mountain biking. Families can stroll the flat Alpine Pedal Path, a stroller-friendly trail winding along the northern shore of Big Bear Lake—perfect for little ones to take in the views. The Big Bear Alpine Zoo, a rescue and rehabilitation center, brings wildlife encounters up close in a peaceful setting. Over at the ski resort, the Sky Chair at Snow Summit treats families to panoramic lake and forest vistas. At the town’s center, the village charm comes alive with toy stores, cafés and sweet shops—making it an ideal spot to warm up after alpine adventures.

Where to stay: Check into the Gold Mountain Manor, a historic bed-and-breakfast with cozy suites, or opt for family-sized vacation rentals and cabins around the lake that provide plenty of space for kids to play. Some higher-end options include private lakefront homes or chalet-style lodges with hot tubs and game rooms. For standout accommodations, opt for Chateau Big Bear, a recently renovated boutique hotel. The tranquil lodge offers a heated pool, game room and complimentary breakfast. Blending midcentury modern style with alpine charm, the lakefront Hotel Marina Riviera features a year-round heated pool, sauna and lakeside firepits. Families can book a room with cozy built-in bunk beds, or choose one of the two standalone cabins for extra space and privacy.

Time Out tip: For a more relaxed break, head to Boulder Bay Park, a scenic, grassy lakeside spot with gentle shores and a playground, ideal for toddlers to run and splash even outside ski season.



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We went on an epic family road trip to France and holidays won’t be the same again

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Hannah Britt and her family became road trip lovers after an incredible drive across the Channel in a Skoda Kodiaq vRS- here’s how you can do the same

Hannah, John and the kids with their Skoda Kodiaq vRS

I’m a frequent yet fairly fearful flyer. Despite catching numerous flights every year, still every time the plane takes off I feel a frisson of anxiety. And I am by no means alone. Indeed, according to TUI one in 10 people have aerophobia, the fear of flying. And as a result, interest in road trips is growing at pace. After one particularly bumpy flight earlier this year, I turned to my partner John and put forward the idea of driving to our next family holiday destination.

We have two children, Molly, five, and one-year-old-Poppy, so – perhaps understandably – he was less than impressed with my suggestion. But when Skoda stepped in and promised to loan us the perfect road trip car, he changed his mind. We have an incredibly well-loved (read: ancient) 4×4 you see. So when a shiny blue Kodiaq vRS pulled up to our drive, John rang his hands with glee.

Hannah and family in the Skoda

Skoda weren’t lying when they said the Kodiaq was the perfect road trip companion. Its huge boot swallowed up our luggage with ease – a pram, two suitcases, approximately 800 teddies and 1000 nappies. There was room to spare. “For wine!” I said to John excitedly. After all, we were going to France. It would be rude not to.

And so off we set. Our route would take us from our home in Manchester to Devon, where we would stay the night at Boringdon Hall hotel, before catching the ferry from Plymouth to Roscoff. From there we would drive through Brittany to Benodet, a small seaside town in north west France.

As the Skoda purred (because it does sound a lot like a happy lion) its way down south, John at the helm, me as a passenger princess passing out snacks and singing songs on demand, Molly was kept happy by both the car’s backseat phone holder, and also a little snack tray. The car clearly had a child present in the design stages. Genius. Even baby Poppy seemed happy in her new surroundings.

Six hours later, with one stop to change an explosive poo, we arrived at Boringdon and checked in for the night. Perched at the bottom of the country, just above Plymouth, in Plympton, it’s a 16th-century Grade 1 listed manor house, with a stretch of beautiful courtyard family rooms. But the best bit was the lawn to the front of the property, which was laden with games like badminton, boules and croquet. The ideal place for a young family to wile away a day in the sun.

Boringdon Hall in the sun

Tearing ourselves away the next day was tough, but necessary, as it was time to catch the ferry. There’s a fair bit of waiting around when it comes to catching the Brittany boat, but I have to say doing so in the Skoda was pretty nice. A big screen at the front doubled up as both an easy-to-use radio, plus poking game for Poppy’s chubby fingers.

Hours later, we descended down the ship’s ramp into France. The Skoda’s sat nav switched seamlessly to telling John off for speeding in kilometers instead of miles. A 90 minute drive later and we made it to our destination: Benodet. Or, more specifically, Le Port de Plaisance, a ‘Five Star Village Plus’ Eurocamp site.

Le Port de Plaisance, Eurocamp site, Benodet, Brittany, France

Now I don’t know about you, but I spent a lot of my childhood running around various Eurocamps in France. And when I posted, raving about Eurocamp, on my Instagram, I was inundated with other people reminiscing about them too. We stayed in an Ultimate Plus holiday home, with a covered deck, swinging egg chair, super comfy outdoor set up and hot tub. But there are options on site for all party sizes and budgets.

Once at Eurocamp, there was little reason to get in the car. Indeed, the beach was close by, as was the supermarket, little town and – most importantly – the bakery. But after a day or two we missed the Skoda, so hopped in to find some brocante (antiques) to bring home. After all, we had space in the boot to fill!

Buying brocante in Benodet

And fill it we did, with a painting of a bowl on a table, which now hangs by my desk as I write this. Years ago we went to Bordeaux by air, meaning nothing at the flea market could come home with us. This time it was different: we had a car. A car it turns out that would also welcome two cases of delicious wine ready to be drunk once back home.

“I may never fly again,” I said to John, gleefully stuffing Chablis with wild abandon into the boot. And while that may not be entirely true. Having a car opened up a whole world of possibilities for us as a family who loves to travel. We’d do it again in a heartbeat, and will. Just maybe not in the 4×4.

Hannah and family are road trip converts!

10 steps to road trip success

Parenting expert Kirsty Ketley says:

1. Plan Ahead – Time journeys around naps, mealtimes, or toilet breaks to reduce stress and disruption to routines.

2. Leave at Nap Time – If you can, start longer journeys when little ones are most likely to sleep.

3. Entertainment is Key – Mix up old-school games like I Spy with sticker books, reusable window stickers, or magnetic boards.

4. Car-eoke – A family singalong is a fun way to pass the miles (and yes, Disney soundtracks count!).

5. Tech Can Help – Tablets on headrests with headphones make for a peaceful drive when everyone needs downtime – don’t feel bad or guilty for using them, but be clear about the boundaries on using them and use them more as a last resort, rather than the default.

6. The Quiet Game – When things get noisy, challenge the kids to see who can stay quiet the longest.

7. Snacks & Drinks – Pack snack boxes for older children and keep drinks in the front with you to avoid unnecessary stops for the loo when they have necked a whole bottle of water! Be very mindful of giving younger children snacks if an adult is not sitting in the back with them, as it is a choking hazard!

8. Safety First – Use child locks, remind kids about seatbelt safety, and follow The Lullaby Trust advice on babies sleeping in car seats.

9. Be Prepared – Keep wipes, tissues, and the nappy bag within easy reach. Blankets and comfy clothing are also essential.

10. Break It Up – If traffic hits or the car gets tense, don’t be afraid to stop somewhere safe, stretch legs, and reset before heading off again.

*Seven nights at Eurocamp, Le Port de Plaisance, from Saturday 23rd May 2026 (May half term) staying in a Classic two bedroom holiday home that sleeps up to five guests, starts from £181.02 per party

*Rooms at Boringdon Hall start from £154 in low season





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I Found Freedom Along the Alaska Highway

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At The Free Press, we firmly believe that everyone, for a few days each year, needs to slow down, switch off, and hit the road—and what better time to do it than the last week of August? So this week, instead of The Front Page, we’re running Journeys, a new series about the trips that change us. Yesterday, Norman Podhoretz lifted the veil on his famous journey from Brooklyn to Manhattan. Today, Paul Kingsnorth shares a tale from the back roads of the Alaska Highway. Enjoy! —The Editors

The good things happen on the margins. At the edges. This is hardly an original observation, but originality is overrated. If something has survived a long time, there’s likely to be something in it.

I’m on a five-day road trip from Montana, through British Columbia, and into Alaska, accompanied by my family and my friend Paul, who is from Alaska. It is day four, and we are on the Canadian part of the Alaska Highway. As we drive along, Paul explains that the road used to be much rougher and the cars much slower. As a result, the journey took longer, and plenty of resorts, motels, cafés, and bars sprang up along the road to cater to the need to stop for rest and refreshment.

Now, the journey is shorter, thanks to faster cars and a smoother road. Good news for drivers in a hurry, but bad news for those people who ran the resorts and cafés. As we continue to head north, we see the consequences: shuttered shops, silent restaurants, and entirely empty holiday resorts.



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Jennifer Szalai and Alexandra Jacobs on Great American Road Trip Books ‹ Literary Hub

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New York Times book critics Jennifer Szalai and Alexandra Jacobs join co-hosts Whitney Terrell and V.V. Ganeshananthan to discuss their recent article, “Love Jack Kerouac? Read These Great American Road Trip Books Next,” which they co-authored with their fellow critic Dwight Garner, and which includes books published after Kerouac’s On the Road. They talk about road trips as escapism, claustrophobia, exploration, and nostalgia, and reflect on their picks, including Hilma Wolitzer’s 1980 novel Hearts, Gypsy Rose Lee’s 1957 eponymous memoir, Michael Paterniti’s 2000 non-fiction book Driving Mr. Albert, and Jesmyn Ward’s 2017 novel Sing, Unburied, Sing. Szalai and Jacobs talk about developing an expansive conception of what qualifies as a road trip book, leaving Lolita out, and favorite road trip music and games. They read from the article.

To hear the full episode, subscribe through iTunes, Google Play, Stitcher, Spotify, or your favorite podcast app (include the forward slashes when searching). You can also listen by streaming from the player below. Check out video versions of our interviews on the Fiction/Non/Fiction Instagram account, the Fiction/Non/Fiction YouTube Channel, and our show website: https://www.fnfpodcast.net/ This podcast is produced by V.V. Ganeshananthan, Whitney Terrell, and Moss Terrell.

Jennifer Szalai and Alexandra Jacobs

“Love Jack Kerouac? Read These Great American Road Trip Books Next.” by Dwight Garner, Alexandra Jacobs, and Jennifer Szalai – The New York Times 

Others:

On the Road by Jack Kerouac • Hearts by Hilma Wolitzer • Gypsy by Gypsy Rose Lee • Driving Mr. Albert by Michael Paterniti • Sing, Unburied, Sing by Jesmyn Ward • Tigerlily by Natalie Merchant • The Price of Salt by Patricia Highsmith • Lolita by Vladimir Nabokov • A Good Man is Hard to Find by Flannery O’Connor • Still Here: The Madcap, Nervy, Singular Life of Elaine Stritch by Alexandra Jacobs

 

EXCERPT FROM A CONVERSATION WITH JENNIFER SZALAI AND ALEXANDRA JACOBS

V.V. Ganeshananthan: To give our listeners like a sense of the incredible range of this list, Alexandra, you also have the earliest book on the list, Gypsy Rose Lee’s ’57 memoir, Gypsy, which started as a 1943 New Yorker piece and ended up being a celebrated Broadway musical, not the path of most books. Have you always thought of that as a road trip book? Or did you have a moment of inspiration when you were trying to get something less conventional in there and you realized that this could actually belong? And why does it belong?

Alexandra Jacobs: It’s funny, I think Lolita died so that Gypsy could live. In other words, Lolita was the one I was thinking about. Our commenters on the project were all like, where’s Lolita? Where’s Lolita? And Lolita was published in ’55 in France so it technically didn’t qualify, but it was published in America, I think not ’til ’58 any or ’57. So for whatever reason, we ruled out Lolita and fairly soon after that, Gypsy popped into my head. There’s a production of Gypsy on Broadway that either just closed or is about to close, and I wanted it almost immediately, because to me, it’s the story. It’s the quintessential road trip book in so many ways because it’s about the quintessential American Road Trip, because it’s about resourcefulness, adaptation, changing identity. There are elements of danger and and really, it’s about not knowing where you’re going to end up both physically and metaphorically. Will you be in lights? A big star? Or are you going to be in the gutter? Gypsy’s somewhere in between.

It’s about this very specific time in the history of American entertainment, when being on the road for the theater was really fun but also fraught with peril and uncertainty. It depicts a lost experience of American entertainment. But it was kind of hard to dig it up. It’s still in print but the edition I had, which I got off eBay, was definitely a little worse for wear. Like Mama Rose herself, one could say. Anyway, I loved resurrecting this. I’m so glad that they allowed me to stick it in there. I’m still deeply resentful about the elimination of Lolita. But, you know, maybe next year.

AJ: It was just purely a date technicality. Its first publication was ’55 and we had cut ourselves off with On The Road.

Jennifer Szalai: It’s always the thing with a list, how you know you want to have some constraints, because that’s what makes it exciting, in a way. But also, you want it to be capacious enough to include a bunch of the books you want. But then there’s always the cutoff point. And Lolita came just a little bit too early to work for us.

Whitney Terrell: I was thinking of the story “A Good Man is Hard to Find” as a classic road trip piece of literature, but that was published before your date.

AJ: There were so many like that. We had The Price of Salt, which came to be known as Carol after the movie, the Patricia Highsmith book that was written before she was Patricia Highsmith. That would have been great. I wrote an entire blurb for that that got left on the cutting room floor. So, watch your back, Scott Heller.

WT: Not all road trips are about freedom or adventure. Sometimes, depending on who you are, the road trip can be dangerous and terrifying and not at all like Kerouac’s road trip. His experience is very different than, say, Black Americans at the time who were relying on the Negro Motorist Green Book, which is the subject of Alvin Hall’s 2023 book, Driving the Green Book. That book is on the list, but Dwight wrote about it so we’re not going to ask you about that specifically, but we do want to talk about Jesmyn Ward’s novel, Sing, Unburied, Sing, which Jennifer wrote about, which is less about escaping life and more about revisiting the ghosts of the past. I wondered if you could talk to us about that kind of road trip.

JS: The book is about a mixed race family, and it’s told through the eyes of various characters. One of the main characters is this 13-year-old boy, Jojo. He, his baby sister, and his mother, who has a pretty severe drug problem, drive to the prison where his father has just been released and his grandfather actually did time decades ago. So there’s a road trip element to it, it’s a central spine of the book. But it turns out to be very complicated, because there are actual ghosts in this novel. So instead of the idea of the open road as this open future, it’s really more about the things in the past that keep this family and these characters from moving forward. It’s a contemporary book, but it’s one of those books that I think uses the trope of the road trip and really sort of turns it around and makes you think about it in a different way. That’s why I picked it for the list.

VVG: There are sections during the broader piece where the two of you and Dwight Garner—and I guess again here I’m entering my imaginary buddy movie—you answer questions like, “What’s the best music for a road trip?” and “What’s your favorite rest stop?” We’ll have a link to the article in the show notes so our readers can go and read all of these, but I thought we could hash a few out. I’m curious about what a road trip means for you personally. For instance, Alexandra, you say the best music for a road trip is the Philadelphia sound. I guess if you know, you know, but what if we don’t know?

AJ: I picked that, I won’t say at random, but I love listening to all kinds of music on a road trip. It’s not like this is my only choice, but I chose it partly because I think it is a little bit less known. It’s a much maligned, lushly orchestrated style of soul music from the ’60s and ’70s, largely produced by the duo Gamble and Huff that I think The Times profiled not so long ago. It’s groups like Harold Melvin and the Blue Notes, the OJS and Spinner Stylistics. I think it’s perfectly suited to the highway. I don’t like driving. I especially don’t like highway driving because I’m from New York. Maybe I have a sentimental attachment to this music because my dad was from Philly. There’s something about it. It’s perfectly suited to the highway, just speeds you right along. It’s not disco, but it’s a little disco adjacent. It gets you thinking about your past and your past loves, and your future. It’s familiar, but it’s not so familiar that it’s cloying. I wanted to put in a plug for that, because I just think when you’re driving—Jen and I are, like I said, we’re not, we’re not professional drivers.

JS: I’m a non-driver, basically.

AJ: That’s just it. I really think to get for me to go above 40 on the highway, which I know is mandated—

WT: Listeners in the Midwest are thinking, “Of course, it takes non-drivers to make this list. Reading is all you have to do.”

AJ: I know, it’s just that I need something to give me the courage to press on that gas. And this does it for me. I can’t explain why.

WT: What was your music, Jennifer?

JS: The music that I named as my favorite for now is an album called Tigerlily by Natalie Merchant. My reasons for picking it are very basic. One, I like it. It’s from the 1990s. It’s also an album that my teenager, who is 15, will actually tolerate.

WT:  That’s my standard now. If I hear my son playing a song that I played for him in a car, I’ve won some tremendous victory.

JS: Yes, oh my God, for sure. That is my reason because for the most part, I never drive. It’s my husband who’s doing the driving usually.

WT: Well, being a passenger is an important part of a road trip.

JS: Exactly. I’m often navigating. We use GPS, but he also has an appreciation for the atlases, because you can actually find scenic routes if you look through them.

AJ: Google Maps will often lead you astray. It’ll do nutty things just to cut off 10 seconds.

JS: It’ll usually give you the basic six lane highway route, when sometimes we want to take a scenic route, even if it takes longer.

WT: Oh, my God, I grew up with atlases I still have. You can’t see all the roads with the way the phone does it, right?

JS: 100 percent. There’s one that was particular to Los Angeles: the Thomas guide. There was a time everyone in LA had a Thomas Guide, which was like a 100-page atlas. And you discovered so much of LA that way that you never would now.

VVG: So, you’re both non drivers. I’m—I have a license. I even have a car. I also am effectively a non-driver because of a deep and abiding hatred. But I would say—

WT: Of driving or of some person?

VVG: No. I mean, that’s a separate episode. I think I’m afraid of driving in what is a fundamentally pretty logical way. It’s a super dangerous thing to do, and we do it all the time because America and because we’re a foolishly big, outlandishly big country, which is part of why road trips are so associated with our country,and knowing it and having the freedom to explore, in particular. But I think that maybe 90 percent of my reading as a kid was done in a car. So can you read in a car? Do you get carsick?

AJ: I get carsick. I can’t even read my phone in the car. I don’t like it.

JS: Same. I can’t do it. I’ll also admit that growing up, my parents didn’t have a car. So, we didn’t really do road trips. Road trips for me were something that I started doing as a grown up.

AJ: We had a car growing up, but it was stolen. One summer, because this was, ’80s, New York, I came home from camp and we didn’t have a car anymore. Talking about danger. And the opposite end of this, it was big. They sent it to a chop shop and I was traumatized thinking of our big black Ford being sent to a chop shop and dismantled for parts. Because to me, it felt like a family member.

Transcribed by Otter.ai. Condensed and edited by Rebecca Kilroy. Photograph of Jennifer Szalai by Earl Wilson. Photograph of Alexandra Jacobs by Nancy Crampton.

 





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