Destinations & Things To Do
Waterton to Coleman: I Didn’t Die on Burnaby Ridge

Day 2
15.0 miles 3870’ gain 2870 descent
I had my best night of sleep since I left Maryland. Lightning and rain on the window created some anxiety in my early morning thoughts. We loaded the truck in the rain and drove back to Waterton. No beautiful sunrise this time but, the clouds over the mountains were a bit clear.
At the trail head the rain stopped and we said our goodbyes with hugs all around. We started the steep ascent out of Waterton thinking this was what to expect. We slowly lost the view of Waterton Lake and the hotel as we walked along newly weed trimmed trail. We followed a mamma deer and her two fawn up the trail for a good way.
It was a steady climb up to the two Carthew Lakes where we snacked and contemplated the steep climb over the next mile to Carthew Summit. Steep loose trail had us stopping frequently to catch our breath. Grand views revealed themselves at the 7621’ summit. The wind blew continuously and chilled us all into another layer. I decided this was one of my new top ten places. Only the second day and the views didn’t disappoint.
Cold wind as we descended had me putting my hands in my pockets to keep warm. Loose switchbacks eventually had us lower and warmer elevation. We bottomed out at Cameron Lake which was busy with boaters and day hikers. We scored a cold soda and some chairs as we people watched.
It was a short road walk to the Akamina Trailhead where we again climbed another 700’. The area was in a large burn recovering with low level vegetation. We pitched our tents and ate our dinners by the bear boxes. A distant storm provided some thunder, lightning and a little rain.
It was a good first full day with some challenging climbs and first class scenery. Dry feet all day was an extra bonus.
Day 3
18.6 miles, 5100’ gain and 4300’ descent
Akamina to Twin Lakes
The stars were brilliant at 4am promising a clear morning. I was packed and left camp by 6:15am. I let Yard Sale know I was going ahead. Calm air only produced the sounds of my footsteps in the twilight. A few birds were awake providing a gentle chorus.
At the road I picked up water for the reported 12 mile dry stretch later to be false. The road revealed the massive burn of the valley some seven years ago. A mountain sheep meandered across the road giving me cautious looks. In about two miles I turned onto the Rowe/Tamarack Trail preparing for the several thousand feet of climb. Blue sky accentuated the dark green evergreens as I walked quietly on the moist forest floor. There were several water sources in the first two miles not identified on Far Out. After some solid climbing the trail traversed a flat valley below an impressive cirque I would eventually climb out of. Interest in our journey a couple from Calgary out for the weekend chatted with me as I rested. A long gradual switchback gave access to the Lineham Summit with 360 views including the terrain covered yesterday and Lineham Lakes below.
I took a long break to rest, eat, dry the condensation from my bag, and wait for Yard Sale and Map. Storm clouds were forming so I left after 45 minutes hoping I would catch them at Lone Lake.
A long, loose, and steep descent had my glutes burning. Bottoming out in a burn, the trail climbed up steeply and worked towards the pass before Lone Lake. My legs were spent from the morning climb requiring lots of rests. This GDT was advertised as steep and it hasn’t disappointed.
Rain started as I descended to Lone Lake where I filtered some water and drank a protein shake. Rain gear on I made my way through the now wet vegetation soaking my shoes. Oh well, they were dry most of the day! I moved slowly over the last pass before Twin Lakes taking frequent breaks and a snack break. It was a hard day.
I met a couple at Twin Lakes who gave me the beta on the set up. The woman worked with Parks Canada out of Waterton. She was surprised I covered 18 miles over this steep terrain. I was more tired than surprised!
Yard Sale and Map rolled in about 6:45pm. They saw three grizzlies above the trail and three mountain sheep. They saw the grizzlies where there were two piles of scat in the trail. I was making lots of noise but, didn’t see them. It was a sow and two second year cubs. Impressive animals. Hope I get to see one at a distance!
Day 4
Twin Lake to Scarp Pass
10 miles and 2660’ gain
The overcast sky had me waking to warmer temperatures. With the short day ahead we took our time leaving and on the trail. We stopped frequently and told lots of stories. Another magnificent view awaited us at the first climb. Still overwhelmed. several Chinese Wall type features lined the trail as we climbed two unnamed passes.
We arrived at Scarp Pass early, set up, and ate lunch. Hope and Martin arrived and joined us. We saw Hope on the GDT Facebook post and she remembered us. This is her first long hike so she was happy to hike with Martin from Slovakia.
We plan to do the Burnaby ridge in the morning so it will be an early start.
Day 5
Scarp Pass to Burnaby Lake
15.5 miles 8000’ ascent
The alarm went off at 4:15am and we left camp by 6:00 am at first light. The first climb was brutally steep for 600’ . There were multiple false summits to La Coulotte. Hope and Martin caught us at a saddle prior to La Coulotte and somehow I started hiking with them as the trail was hard to find.
At La Coulotte Hope, Martin and I chose the Burnaby Ridge Alternate while Yard Sale and Map stayed on the red line or the standard route. which would later prove to be a good decision.
The route started with a gnarly drop off that had a chain anchored to the rock. Martin had rock climbing experience which was invaluable so he led the way. Hope and I managed the chain assisted descent with some apprehension, not knowing there would be more sketchy sections to manage.
We ascended two more peaks after La Coulotte each feeling similar in steepness to the last 1500’ of 14ners in Colorado. We celebrated being together, had a snack, and looked at the next ridge line to tackle. We descended and ascended the next peak when the ridge got sketchy. Again, Martin scouted and led. Hope was a little sketched out descending the loose scree between the steep ledges. I coached Hope drawing on my limited rock experience but, I mostly encouraged her confidence. Next was an even sketchier spot. The severity of this section made me check Far Out. I told Martin and Hope we were on the wrong ridge. After several appropriate expletives given the severe penalty of this mistake, I turned around and Hope was already climbing up. Admittedly, she was ready to get out of there.
With a big chunk out of or egos, we retraced our steps back to the peak. The correct ridge line was much easier looking and we just assumed the wrong and more difficult ridge was correct. Martin felt bad as our informal leader but, I told him we all had the ability to check our Far Out app., so we were all equally responsible for the mistake. However, the endeavor was jokingly named the “Martin Alternate”!
There were two warning triangles on the Far Out app. The first was another chain descent around an 8 meter cliff that was not bad give everything else we had already done. The second was a narrow ridge line that we chose supposedly easier alternate around. Marked with orange paint, we ascended below the ridge line. A faint orange painter arrow on the rock indicated the climb up to the ridge. With Martin scouting and leading, Hope and I slowly ascended the steep scramble some 300’ back to the ridge. While we didn’t do the narrow ridge, I’m not sure the work around was much easier. At the crest, Hope followed me and was supportive across a gnarly rocky ridge. It was comforting to know she had my back.
After several more steep ups and downs it was 3pm and we had only made 10 miles, we took the second well deserved sit down break of the day. With five more miles to go and three more ridge peaks, I knew I was going to have to dig deep and be patient with what my body had left.
The wind on the exposed ridges had increased from 30-40mph to 60-70mph making the ascents even harder and wearing on me emotionally. The last climb was extremely long and steep up red, loose shale. I could see the Castle Mountain Sky Resort below where Yard Sale and Map were planned to camp. I could envision them down there in calm breezes and warmer temperatures looking up at us, maybe having a beer at the bar. Envious of their plight, all I could focus on was getting to camp.
The last long descent to Burnaby Lake where we would camp was brutal on our tired feet and legs. Martin was kind to drop his pack and backtrack to help me navigate the last sketchy down climb. He is a solid young man! At camp, it was hugs all around! Hope was enamored by how we just met a day ago and how today we supported each other in tough spots both physically and emotionally.
In the end, we went about 15 plus miles and climbed about 8000’. We reached camp at 7:10pm, about 13 hours after our start that seemed like a day ago. A quick dinner with my new friends was followed by the best feeling of laying down for the night. I was tired, satisfied but, will think twice about future alternates!
Day 6
Burnaby Lake to Just before Coleman
28 miles 4700’ gain 4800’ descent
I was the first to leave the Burnaby Lake and there was more slippery downhill reminding me of my sore legs. A lovely river preceded a paved road walk as the morning emerged and the birds woke up.
The first climb through the trees was steep but, not rocky or wind blown like yesterday. On tired legs I let out my whoo-oop bear alert and I heard a similar familiar response above me from Yard Sale and Map. Soon I was rejoined by my friends to share our stories from yesterday. They stayed at a hostel and got showers but, no beer! It was great to be reunited.
Soon we were joined by Martin and later by Hope at Lynx Creek where we had lunch by the river on a picnic table! I helped Hope treat some blisters and we were on our way. We chose a mostly gravel road route on the way to Havens Bridge 25 miles away. We met a fisherman, a tourist from Edmonton, and a GDT hiker.
Havens Bridge had no camp spots so we forged on looking for stealth spots along the road. Striking out, we went about another 4 miles and camped with Martin near the river. It was a long day but, we only had about 4 miles into Coleman the next day.
Day 7
4 miles to Coleman
It was raining when we woke up and started our walk to Coleman with umbrellas up. Hope caught us for breakfast at Chris’ restaurant where we devoured eggs, ham, cheese, sausage, French toast, fruit, coffee and OJ.
We caught up on our phones at Kindred Coffee while we waited to meet Trail Boss and Kelly who brought us our food boxes. Trail Boss, Map, and Kelly did our laundry and mailed our boxes while we did chores back at the room. After a great shower, we ate dinner at the Rum Runner before Trail Boss, and Kelly returned home. I am so grateful to be a part of a great group of friends!
Destinations & Things To Do
PCT SOBO DAY 33 – Should I Eat At Timberline Lodge?

Day 33
Start: Paradise Park Loop Alternate, mile ~550
End: Timothy Lake, mile 575.2
Miles hiked: ~25.2 miles
Last night was a little windy, which kept me from slipping into a deep sleep for a while. So, this morning, I slept in a bit later than usual, but eventually packed up and left my nearly perfect campsite.
The goal for this morning was to reach Timberline Lodge to check it out. I didn’t have a box there nor did I plan on eating the breakfast buffet, but it still seemed like a cool stop. I had about 5 miles to hike to get there, but as I hiked, my legs felt heavy and sluggish.
A light layer of clouds covered part of the sky. As the morning wore on, the clouds expanded and got darker. It looked like rain was in the forecast for today! That didn’t stop the stream of day hikers that came from the direction of the Timberline Lodge. They were everywhere! I could tell I was getting close to the lodge when the day hikers were energetic and excited about their hike.
Soon, I passed a set of ski lifts and then I saw the famous grey building. I made it! And despite not planning on eating the breakfast buffet, my grumbling stomach steered me straight to the dining room. I saw a few other SOBO hikers in the small, dark room and said my greetings. To my surprise, I demolished two plates of food and felt like I could’ve stuffed another one down. I still think the buffet was overpriced, but it was worth it for the novelty of an on-trail buffet.
While having breakfast, I spotted a gentleman with a PCT shirt on and asked if he was a hiker. Turns out it was Papa Joe from Casa de Luna! If you don’t know, he and his wife were Trail Angels for 20 years, hosting hikers in Southern California before closing their doors a few years ago. Throughout my PCT research, Casa de Luna always showed up as a must-stop. To meet such a legend on trail really made my day!
After saying goodbye and paying my bill, I took a few minutes to explore the lodge. There was so much history contained here! From the little museum on the ground floor to the intricate carvings and symbols on the woodwork, there was a lot to see. I was surprised to find out that the lodge was constructed as part of FDR’s New Deal. I had no idea! I definitely want to come back and visit again.
Back on trail, it was time to descend. The trail was beach-like; fine rock pulverized into sand got into my shoes as I made my way down. Once I got to the forested area, I had to dump my shoes and watch the sand fly out.
The rest of the day was easy walking through the forest along a relatively flat path. I ran into a couple of people who read my blogs (thanks for the support!) and took a short blue blaze to see Little Crater Lake, a magnificently blue pool of water.
With sore feet and ready to be still for the evening, I walked the last 1.5 miles to my campsite on Timothy Lake. Another SOBO I had been leapfrogging was there as well as a section hiker. On the lake, baby ducks played and boaters floated on the water. I loved hearing the sounds of the family across the lake enjoying their summer outdoors. It was a peaceful evening.
And that’s a day in the life of a PCT SOBO hiker!
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Destinations & Things To Do
Muscat, Petra, Doha, Sharm El Sheikh, Riyadh, Byblos, and Wadi Rum: Here Are Seven Must-Visit Underrated Summer Travel Destinations in the Middle East

Published on
August 10, 2025 |
The Middle East is home to iconic cities and famous landmarks, but there are several underrated destinations that offer a unique and enriching experience for travelers this summer. From the stunning beaches and cultural heritage of Muscat in Oman to the ancient historical wonders of Petra in Jordan, the region is full of hidden gems waiting to be explored. Doha, the modern capital of Qatar, offers a blend of cutting-edge architecture and cultural experiences, while Sharm El Sheikh in Egypt promises beautiful beaches and thrilling underwater adventures. Riyadh, Saudi Arabia’s vibrant capital, showcases a fascinating mix of tradition and modernity, while Byblos in Lebanon offers a blend of ancient ruins and Mediterranean charm. Finally, Wadi Rum in Jordan, with its vast desert landscapes and adventure-filled activities, completes the list of must-visit Middle Eastern destinations. These 7 must-visit underrated summer travel destinations in the Middle East provide the perfect combination of culture, history, nature, and adventure, making them ideal spots for a memorable summer getaway.
Muscat, Oman
Muscat, the capital city of Oman, is a hidden gem that blends modernity with traditional Arabian culture. Located about 30 minutes from Muscat International Airport, it attracts around 2 million visitors annually, making it a great alternative to more crowded destinations in the Middle East. The city is known for its Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, one of the largest and most beautiful mosques in the region, showcasing stunning Islamic architecture. Mutrah Souq, a traditional market, offers a delightful mix of spices, textiles, and handicrafts, allowing visitors to experience the local culture. For adventure lovers, Muscat offers dune bashing in the surrounding desert and incredible snorkeling and diving opportunities in the crystal-clear waters of the Arabian Sea. During the summer, the city hosts the Muscat Festival, a cultural event that celebrates Omani heritage with music, dance, and food, providing a fantastic experience for visitors.
Petra, Jordan
Petra, one of the world’s most famous archaeological sites, is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in ancient history and breathtaking landscapes. Located in southern Jordan, Petra is easily accessible via a 2.5-hour drive from Queen Alia International Airport. Around 1 million people visit Petra annually, drawn by its iconic The Treasury (Al-Khazneh), a stunning rock-cut facade that remains one of the most recognizable landmarks in the world. The Siq, a narrow canyon that leads into Petra, offers a dramatic entrance to this ancient city, making it a favorite for photographers. Adventure enthusiasts can enjoy hiking through the vast site, which includes climbing to higher points for panoramic views of the desert and ruins. Visitors can also experience a traditional camel ride through the site’s surroundings, making the experience even more immersive. Don’t miss Petra Night, held each evening, when the site is illuminated by thousands of candles, creating a magical atmosphere that showcases the beauty of the ancient city in a new light.
Doha, Qatar
Doha, the capital of Qatar, is a bustling city known for its modern architecture, cultural landmarks, and thriving arts scene. Just a 20-minute drive from Hamad International Airport, the city attracts around 2.5 million visitors each year. Doha’s main attractions include the Museum of Islamic Art, home to a vast collection of Islamic art and a stunning architectural design, and the Pearl-Qatar, a luxurious man-made island offering high-end shopping and dining. Adventure seekers can explore the desert landscape surrounding the city with exciting dune safari tours, or enjoy a dhow cruise on the Arabian Gulf, offering stunning views of the skyline. During the summer, Doha hosts the Qatar International Food Festival, bringing together global chefs and food lovers to explore diverse cuisines and enjoy the city’s vibrant culinary scene.
Sharm El Sheikh, Egypt
Sharm El Sheikh, located on the Red Sea in Egypt, is a popular but often underrated summer destination that offers a mix of relaxation, adventure, and history. The city is easily accessible via Sharm El Sheikh International Airport, just 10 minutes away from the city center, and attracts around 5 million visitors annually, with most coming for its beaches and world-class diving spots. One of Sharm El Sheikh’s main attractions is Ras Mohammed National Park, a protected marine park known for its colorful coral reefs and diverse marine life. Naama Bay is a bustling area filled with restaurants, shops, and nightlife, while the surrounding desert offers opportunities for camel rides and off-road excursions. For those who enjoy diving or snorkeling, the waters of the Red Sea are among the best in the world, offering clear visibility and vibrant underwater ecosystems. If you’re visiting in the summer, the Sharm El Sheikh International Jazz Festival in August is an excellent opportunity to enjoy live music in a stunning coastal setting.
Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Riyadh, the capital of Saudi Arabia, is a city that blends modernity with deep cultural heritage, offering travelers a unique look at the country’s rich history and development. Located 45 minutes from King Khalid International Airport, Riyadh attracts around 1 million visitors annually. Key attractions include the Al Masmak Fortress, a historic site that provides insight into Saudi Arabia’s past, and the National Museum of Saudi Arabia, where visitors can learn about the country’s cultural and historical evolution. For adventure enthusiasts, Riyadh offers camel rides through the desert, and skydiving over the vast landscape for those seeking a thrill. The city also boasts numerous high-end shopping malls, modern skyscrapers, and traditional souks. The Saudi National Day Celebrations, held annually in September, feature fireworks, parades, and a variety of cultural performances across Riyadh, providing an exciting and festive atmosphere.
Byblos, Lebanon
Byblos, located on the Mediterranean coast of Lebanon, is one of the oldest cities in the world and offers a blend of ancient history, stunning scenery, and cultural charm. Easily accessible via Beirut Rafic Hariri International Airport, about an hour’s drive from Byblos, the city attracts around 250,000-300,000 visitors each year. Key attractions in Byblos include the Byblos Castle, a Crusader fort that overlooks the Mediterranean Sea, and the Byblos Old Souk, a lively market that offers local handicrafts, textiles, and delicious food. For adventure lovers, diving along Lebanon’s coastline is a must-do, with the waters home to abundant marine life. Visitors can also enjoy hiking through Lebanon’s mountains and exploring the ancient ruins scattered throughout the region. The Byblos International Festival, held every summer, brings together musicians, artists, and performers for a vibrant celebration of music, theater, and culture, making it the perfect time to experience the city’s magic.
Wadi Rum, Jordan
Wadi Rum, also known as the “Valley of the Moon,” is a stunning desert landscape in southern Jordan, offering visitors an opportunity to experience the vast beauty of the desert in a peaceful and tranquil setting. King Hussein International Airport is just an hour’s drive from the desert, and the area attracts around 100,000-150,000 visitors annually. The desert’s main attraction is its dramatic rock formations, vast sand dunes, and ancient petroglyphs, which make for a surreal and unforgettable experience. Jeep tours are popular here, as they allow visitors to explore the desert and experience its beauty up close. Rock climbing enthusiasts can also tackle the towering cliffs that rise dramatically from the desert floor. During the summer months, the Wadi Rum Cultural Festival celebrates Bedouin culture with traditional music, dance, and food, giving visitors a deeper understanding of the local heritage.
Why These Destinations Are Perfect for Your Summer Getaway
These seven underrated Middle Eastern destinations offer a perfect mix of adventure, culture, and natural beauty. Whether you’re exploring the ancient ruins of Petra, relaxing on the beaches of Muscat, or experiencing the vast deserts of Wadi Rum, each destination provides a unique and unforgettable experience. With exciting cultural events and festivals to look forward to, now is the ideal time to visit these hidden gems in the Middle East.
Destinations & Things To Do
The Mysterious Death of Arctic Explorer Thomas Simpson » Explorersweb

For a time, Thomas Simpson was considered the man who would have discovered the Northwest Passage, if he had lived long enough. Today, he is relatively little known, but when he is remembered, it is for his death. Murder, suicide, madness, a notebook full of secrets — five men entered the wilderness, and only two returned. Who shot first? And why?
This lithograph depicts Thomas Simpson reaching Victoria Land in the Canadian Arctic. Photo: Willy Stower, around 1903
How Thomas Simpson turned explorer
Simpson, born in Dingwall, Scotland in 1808, was not a boy anyone expected to explore the Arctic. He was a delicate, sickly child, described by his brother Alexander as having “a quiet, tractable temper, and [paying] a steady attention to his studies.”
By the death of his schoolteacher father in 1821, Simpson was already destined for the church. At 17, he enrolled in King’s College, Aberdeen, and graduated with an M.A. with high marks. He kept at his studies, but Simpson had run into a common problem for M.A. graduates who wish to keep studying: He lacked the funds.
Simpson had hoped to go to medical school, but couldn’t afford it. Continuing in the church meant years of supporting himself as a tutor before he could get a parochial assignment. Besides, naturally resentful of authority, he was beginning to stifle under the strict, traditional Church of Scotland.
His elder half-brother, Aemilius, had joined the Hudson Bay Company in 1826, and his brother Alexander had signed up in 1828. They had a family connection; their cousin, Sir George Simpson, had recently become the Governor-in-Chief of Rupert’s Land (a British territory in the Hudson Bay drainage area of Canada). Sir George’s career is murky; he joined the Hudson Bay Company as a clerk in 1820. In 1826, following internal and external disputes that cleared out the executive suite, he became Governor.
Sir George offered his cousin the post of secretary to the company. Thomas, who had grown out of his sickly childhood constitution into heartiness and strength, agreed.
Sir George Simpson, a consummate businessman and opportunist, hired Thomas as his secretary. Photo: Wikimedia Commons
Early success and early trouble
Simpson took to the adventurous outdoor life. With his cousin, he toured the southeastern holdings of the Hudson Bay Company in a light canoe. He spent the next several years traveling around the Canadian Arctic in George’s employ.
Simpson distinguished himself early, guiding a party of nearly a hundred recruits through the wilderness with far fewer desertions than usual. A year later, he took a party of men and dogs over 1,100km from York Factory to Red River. He told his brother Alexander that he loved the 28-day snowshoe journey, enjoying the fresh air and exercise.
Already, however, interpersonal conflict plagued him. Sir George was not an easy man to work for. Thomas Simpson reportedly found him “wavering [and] capricious,” calling his cousin “a severe and most repulsive master.” He was unimpressed with most of his colleagues, but assured Alexander that they both would soon have the prominence and success that they deserved.
Sir George Simpson’s canoe, where he and his secretary traveled on business. Photo: Royal Ontario Museum
A notable incident
Most of the lower-level employees of the Hudson Bay trading posts were indigenous people from several groups and people of mixed white and indigenous descent. Simpson frequently expressed a low opinion of them. When Alexander came to visit Red River in December 1834, he found his brother at the center of a small-scale race war.
One of the mixed-race Canadian workers had entered Simpson’s office and requested an advance on his wages. We don’t have the worker’s side of the story, but Simpson claims the man was drunk and disorderly and refused to leave when his request was denied. According to Thomas, the man put up physical resistance when he tried to remove him, and they got into a fight. Simpson won, beating the man badly.
The local indigenous community reacted badly to the incident and began demanding that Sir George punish Thomas Simpson. Simpson, meanwhile, told his brother that he feared an attempt on his life and believed the indigenous people planned to use the incident as an excuse to launch a full-scale rebellion.
Sir George met with representatives of the community and negotiated a rapprochement. Sir George paid the aggrieved party a small sum, handed over a barrel of alcohol, and apologized. He promised to remove Thomas from the settlement, which both parties seemingly understood he was not actually going to do.
Relations returned to normal, but Thomas remained convinced the indigenous workers were out to get him. He slept alone with barricaded doors and a guard dog.
Part of the Red River Colony, mid-19th century. Photo: Archives of Manitoba
The Dease expedition
Thomas Simpson’s day in the sun came in 1837, when he became the second in command of an Arctic expedition. The Hudson Bay Company charter from 1670 included “finding the Northwest Passage” as a primary goal. So far, they had done little.
The expedition leader was 46-year-old Peter Warren Dease, the long-time chief trader and former John Franklin collaborator. What he lacked in qualifications, he made up for by being well-liked. Naturally, Thomas Simpson hated him. The leadership position, he was sure, was meant for him, and his cousin had spurned him at the last second.
In only 62 days, Simpson made an over 2,000km overland journey to meet Dease at Fort Chipewyan. With 12 men, they had set out on June 1, intending to fill in the gap between Franklin’s Return Reef and Point Barrow, Alaska. By July 23, the party had eclipsed Franklin’s furthest west, set in 1826. But by the end of the month, the ice grew too thick to proceed further.
The boats, trapped by ice, were still nearly 100km from Point Barrow. Undeterred, Simpson set off on foot with five of the men. The party ran into a group of Inuit and borrowed their umiak, a small open boat. In this vessel, they reached Point Barrow, completing the “west” part of the Northwest Passage.
In a letter to Alexander, Simpson wrote that “I, and I alone, have the well-earned honour of uniting the Arctic to the great Western Ocean.”
Point Barrow, Alaska, also known by the Inupiaq name Nuvuk, appears frequently in the annals of Arctic exploration. Photo: Wikimedia Commons
Few gaps remain
Dease and Simpson’s parties reunited and made their way back to Fort Norman by the start of September. There, they found instructions for the next stage of their explorations, up the Coppermine River.
Simpson spent the winter nursing a growing hatred of Dease and a conviction that their leader was contributing nothing. Dease was an “indolent, illiterate soul,” Simpson wrote.
In 1838, the expedition attempted to push east from Point Turnagain by boat. Again, the ice trapped their boats, and again, Simpson continued on foot, exploring a further 160km of coastline. The next year, conditions improved, and they traveled up the Coppermine River to the Boothia Peninsula. If they could find passage to the Gulf of Boothia and from there connect with the Atlantic, they would complete the Northwest Passage.
But it was too late in the season. Simpson had already harried them forward despite Dease’s wishes and the men’s exhaustion, forcing them up through the already freezing-over Mackenzie River. This was where Simpson claimed one of his most notable exploratory feats, that of naming Victoria Land (now Victoria Island).
By late September, the expedition was back at Fort Confidence. Simpson’s account of the expedition, published posthumously, provides much detail for readers willing to overlook all the self-congratulation.
A map of progress along the coast during the Dease expedition. Photo: Wikimedia Commons
One more expedition
Simpson no doubt felt that one more expedition would make him the first man to complete the famous, deadly passage. But they would not go back next season: Dease wanted to take his leave in Europe and have time off to marry and settle with his fiancée, a Métis woman named Elizabeth Chouinard.
Simpson did not have time for his loathed coworker’s domestic bliss. He petitioned Sir George for full command to continue the work. “Fame I will have, but it must be alone,” he wrote.
Sir George, possibly still concerned with his cousin’s personal issues, was reluctant. There was a tangled back and forth of letters, and for several weeks, Simpson refused to leave Fort Simpson for Red River as ordered.
Eventually, Simpson petitioned the board of directors in London. Worried that Dease would get there first and take all the credit, and wanting to make his petition in person, Simpson decided to go to the board himself. Simpson took his notebook, with many of the important observations and maps from the past three years.
In June 1840, he set out with four Métis men for the port of New York by way of St. Paul. He never returned.
A cairn left by Thomas Simpson and Peter Warren Dease at Cape Herschel was rediscovered in 1856 by Leopold McClintock, searching for the lost Franklin Expedition. Photo: Elisha Kane
The final journey
In another letter to Alexander, Simpson said that the journey would be good for him; his stomach had been bad, and his spirits had been low all spring. The five men soon fell in with a group of several dozen people moving from Canada to the United States. For several days, they traveled together, but then Simpson, citing the need to move as quickly as possible, pushed on ahead with the four men from Red River.
On June 15, two of the party — James Bruce and Antoine Legros Junior — ran back into the group of emigrants. They had a frightful story.
After eight days on the trail, Simpson had begun feeling sick and insisted they stop, wanting to return to Red River. John Bird and Antoine Legros Senior began setting up camp when Simpson fired his shotgun at them. Yelling that they planned to kill him, Simpson fired two shots, hitting first Bird and then Legros Sr. Bruce and Legros Junior, the son of the elder Legros, quickly leapt onto their horses and rode off for help.
The men urged the party of emigrants to follow them back to camp and capture Simpson. Six men agreed and cautiously followed the pair back to their camp. Robert Logan, one of this party, later gave an official deposition on the scene they found by the banks of the Turtle River.
The banks of the Turtle River, a tributary of the Red River. Photo: Wikimedia Commons
Simpson’s death
The eight men halted about 180m from the camp. They called Simpson’s name but received no answer. They could see the abandoned cart, the bodies of John Bird and Antoine Legros, and Bird’s dog lingering by his late master. The group moved a little to one side, hoping to get a different angle. Then a shot rang out, and a bullet “whistled over [their] heads,” from the direction of the camp.
All was quiet for some minutes, and the investigators decided to fire into the air in that direction, presumably to warn Simpson of their presence. Two men, Gaubin and Michel Rochette, fired, Rochette accidentally winging the dog, which ran off. Then all the party members fired twice and waited.
Finally, Rochette mounted his horse and did a quick ride-by of the camp, returning to report that he had seen Simpson lying on the ground, apparently dead. The men entered the camp.
Simpson’s body was “stretched out, with one leg across the other, and the butt end of his double-barreled gun between his legs, the right hand, with the glove off, directed to the trigger, the left hand, with the glove on, holding the gun, near the muzzle, on his breast.” He was missing the top of his head.
That was how Robert Logan reported it. But another of the party, who was deposed a few months later, described Simpson’s body as “lying with his face downwards, near, but not on, a blanket,” by the cart.
Legros’ body was under a blanket, with a pillow under his head. Bird’s body was a few steps away. They buried all three bodies.
Murder, madness, mystery
The question of Simpson’s final hours is twofold: Who fired the shot that killed him, and why did he shoot John Bird and Antoine Legros?
James Bruce repeated his story in an official deposition at St Peter’s, Iowa. The court never deposed Legros Jr, possibly in consideration of his age or family tie to one of the victims. The official verdict the court pronounced was “murder and suicide while of unsound mind.” Simpson had killed the two men in a fit of paranoid delusion, then shot himself.
Perhaps Simpson was an early and unrecognized case of so-called “polar madness.” Douglas MacKay, an early 20th-century historian of the Hudson Bay Company, argued that Simpson’s letters revealed “a rapidly mounting and almost uncontrolled egoism, the culmination of unbounded ambition and the lonely Arctic winter.”
We must acknowledge the role racial prejudice played in the incident at Turtle River, and the speculation that followed. Simpson distrusted his indigenous coworkers and had a history of conflict with them.
He was probably jealous of the fruits of his exploration and had admitted to suffering physical illness and a depressed spirit in the months before his death. That this paranoia and instability would become violence, directed at his Métis companions, is not necessarily out of character. It’s also not out of character for 19th-century fur traders to believe that indigenous people were thieves, murderers, and liars.
Adam Tollefsen went to Antarctica on the ‘Belgica’ and famously went mad. Photo: De Gerlache Family Collection
The official story contradicted
Alexander Simpson refused to believe it. In his biography of his brother, Alexander laid out a number of flaws in the official story.
Alexander asserted that his brother was an obsessive diarist and would certainly have had a notebook with him at the time of his death. But when his brother’s papers, recovered from the body, were delivered to Alexander, no diary was included. He also noted that his brother’s pocket map did not quite line up with the timeline given in the depositions. His foremost objection, however, was that his brother had never exhibited any signs of mental instability.
Remembering the events of December 1834, he believed the indigenous workers at the Hudson Bay Company in Red River had held a grudge against his brother. Both Simpsons were suspicious of “the evil passions of [their] race.” John Bird, in particular, was “dangerous,” according to Alexander, and believed that Simpson’s notes contained the secret of the Northwest Passage.
Alexander believed that his brother had gotten wise to the men’s plan to murder him for the documents and had feigned sickness to return to Red River. But over two days of travel, tensions mounted, and on June 14, Simpson killed Bird and Legros in self-defense, sustaining mortal wounds in return. The shot reported by Robert Logan and his party was, Alexander argued, imagined or invented.
The sudden end of his career today overshadows Simpson’s explorations. Photo: Library and Archives Canada
Continuing speculation
Arctic explorer Vilhjalmur Stefansson dedicated a lengthy section of his 1938 book, Unsolved Mysteries of the Arctic, to Simpson’s death. He proposed another alternative to the initial murder-suicide theory.
He posits that, rather than being independent agents after his notes, Bird and the Métis were assassins hired by Sir George. Sir George, Stefansson posits, may have been motivated to prevent the Northwest Passage discovery to protect the Hudson Bay Company’s monopoly on the fur trade. Sir George would also have had the opportunity to remove the diary from Simpson before sending anything to Alexander.
It is worth noting that Stefansson was, as Roald Amundsen so neatly put it, “the greatest humbug alive.” But the humbug does admittedly have a point that Sir George’s diary, on the date he received news of his cousin’s death at only 31 years old, devotes more time to the taste of whitefish (“somewhat the flavour of trout”) than to the death.
There is also a third possible answer to the question of who shot Simpson. If the investigating party had been firing low enough to clip Bird’s dog, could one of the many shots — they all shot twice — not have hit Simpson?
Whatever the truth, the events of June 15, 1840, ended Thomas Simpson’s exploratory career. Would he have gone on to discover the Northwest Passage? Did this bizarre murder-suicide indirectly doom John Franklin and his men? We will almost certainly never know the truth.
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