Everyone asks about what animals I’ve seen out here on the CDT, and while I will regale you with wildflower photos every single post….. let’s talk animals.

Grasshoppers, really?

Yes! Hiking slowly but surely up Parkview Mountain out of RMNP, I encountered ferocious winds! I was walking at about a sixty degree angle to compensate for its force and then nearly falling over when the wind slackened! I must have looked drunk! I was not the only creature forcing my way through the wind. The multitudes of grasshoppers who flew up around me with every step also were incapacitated by its force. They got caught in the wind (40 or 50 mph?) and then smack! Something hits me in the face. Yes, I have several welts on my face from grasshopper projectiles! That was not the injury predicted when I started in this adventure!

Moose!!

While locals think seeing moose is commonplace , I was thrilled when a mama moose crossed the Colorado River just in front of me. I talked to her and she looked at me, looked at her baby, and continued across the river, across the trail and into the woods.

And again in Rocky Mountain National Park I was about to heft my pack on to hike when I looked up and saw a horse coming into my campsite…. But wait, it’s not a horse it’s a moose and it has a baby too!

Of course, there are so many of my overly friendly marmots that I even found one guarding the route to the glacier!

I love love love watching the pika gathering grasses and flowers! One had so many flowers she looked like she was heading to a wedding!

Yes, I have seen one bear. But mostly I’ve seen bear scat and that was mostly closest to campgrounds. Go figure.

Ground squirrels usually flee from me quickly, but this one was happy to see another camper. Deer also usually scamper away, but at several campsites they are obviously habituated to humans. One friend says sober pee near your tent or else the deer will keep you up all night trying to get it.

Several folks have asked me if I’m afraid of the animals. No. They are not out there to eat us, but we for sure must be respectful of them. I’ve also enjoyed some friendly human encounters too, especially since they are much less common in this trail. To Trapper, Winner, Scrap, Griffin and the 5 women environmental scientists and friends from Boulder, I salute you! It was great to meet you on the trail!

I must again say that the world is full of lovely humans. Thanks to the trail angels and folks who picked up stinky hitch hikers and offered us places to stay. Kate and Geoff are among the best! Thanks to you all!

As I slowly climbed one steep pass, one very energetic runner comes bounding down to me. He shouts CDT? After I say yes, he shouts “You’re amazing! “ as he speeds away. He lifted me to the top of that pass. Kind words can do wonders!

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Dealing with any tension in the body is a real pain. But a tight, sore jaw can be mind-numbingly painful at worst and annoying at best. Learning how to relax your jaw can protect you from a host of unnecessary issues.

According to Nojan Bakhtiari, a facial and oral pain specialist, headaches, teeth damage, sleep disruption (and negative repercussions on mental health), and, of course, general pain can all be attributed, at least in part, to a clenched jaw.

What Causes Jaw Tension?

Most jaw tension is created by daily, relatable habits—even would-be relaxing ones, including sleep or yoga. Bakhtiari cites “daytime clenching,” the sort that happens during exercise or stressful work events, and nighttime teeth grinding as predominant culprits.

Other contributing factors? “Excessive caffeine, medications (such as stimulants), and oral habits including nail biting, cheek biting, lip biting, and gum chewing,” he says. This cocktail of conscious and unconscious quirks can create undue pain that can ultimately impact your overall health.

TMJ Disorders

Jaw pain and headaches are often related to TMJ, or the temporomandibular joints, which frame your jaw. You have two of these joints. To find them, place a finger from each hand on the sides of your face just slightly in front of your ears. Open your mouth. You should feel your jaw unlock. Issues with your jaw joints are caused by TMD (temporomandibular disorders). TMD may include disc disorders or even problems with the muscles used for chewing. While the causes of TMJ pain are common, addressing it requires some finesse.

“TMJ exercises need to be tailored to the individual,” says Bakhtiari. “Unfortunately, some classic exercises found online can hurt people who are hypermobile (too flexible).” If you’re interested, Bakhtiari suggests getting evaluated by an orofacial pain specialist first.

5 Ways to Stop Clenching Your Jaw

Fortunately, there is a selection of universal steps you can take to relax your jaw now. According to Bakhtiari, simply noticing the above patterns can help you overcome them.

1. Make Humming Sounds

The sacred mantra of om is more than mentally and spiritually meditative—it can ease physical stress, too. Bakhtiari notes that an om, or any humming sound with an “m,” encourages your jaw to move to a relaxed position. 

2. Try to Limit Nail Biting and Gum Chewing

This one is simple. “Break any oral habits such as nail biting and gum chewing,” says Bakhtiari. While these small instances tend to be tied to anxiety, finding other coping mechanisms (think meditation or breathwork) will protect you from greater strife.

3. Cut Down on Caffeine

As noted above, an excess of caffeine and other stimulants can amp you up, causing you to clench your jaw. There’s no need to ditch your coffee and tea entirely—a bit of mindfulness around consumption goes a long way.

4. Develop a Myofascial Release Routine

The myofascial system runs through your entire body, connecting myriad body parts, including your jaw and your hamstrings. Honing a myofascial release routine that addresses your tightest areas may effectively release others; in this case, rolling out your hamstrings may be precisely what you need to help unlock your jaw. You can also purchase myofascial release balls, like these. You can also use a tennis ball.

5. Keep Your Teeth Apart

This simple suggestion can make a big change. According to Bakhtiari, your teeth are never meant to touch—except when you’re eating, of course. Reminding yourself of this fact can instantly alleviate jaw tension.

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Day 32

Start: Indian Springs Trail Junction, mile 525.1

End: Paradise Park Loop Alternate, mile ~550

Miles hiked: ~24.9 miles

After getting in late last night, I decided to sleep in for a while, waking up at 6:30am instead of 6:00am. I could hear the NOBOs getting up and heading out, so when it came time for breakfast, I enjoyed it at the picnic table alone. When I got back on trail, however, I noticed that there was one tent left: that of the other SOBO couple I had been leapfrogging since the beginning. I’d probably see them again sometime today.

After a few minutes of climbing, I reached the wide open expanse of an exposed bald. Darn, this could’ve been my campsite last night. There were views of Mt. Hood, Mt. Rainier, and Mt. St. Helen’s with no clouds to cover them. If only I hadn’t been so wiped out after the climb. Oh well.

After that, it was a while until I saw the full sky again. The trail took me gently through the forest, past huckleberry and blueberry bushes that had already been well-picked. So many NOBOs and multi-day backpackers passed, it was unbelievable. But I did end up passing someone who I’d been looking for since the beginning. The crazy thing was, I didn’t even know what he looked like, just his name.

A friend from church had another friend hiking the trail this year and told me to look out for him. Well, a friendly guy and his wife passed and struck up a conversation, which doesn’t happen as often as you would think between NOBOs and SOBOs. It took us a few minutes to introduce ourselves, but when he did, a lightbulb went off; it was him! What a coincidence because now, with so many NOBOs passing, I just say hi and move on, but for some reason we struck up a real conversation. How lucky is that?

After a few miles, I sat down to have second breakfast. With 6 miles done so far, the morning was moving steadily along. Just as I was packing up to leave, the SOBO couple from this morning came to have their second breakfast as well. See? I knew it wouldn’t be long until I saw them again.

Since I had finished, I gave them the site and kept going. Then, through a break in the trees, I saw it: Mt. Hood! This was my destination for the day; I planned to camp along an alternate in the shadow of the beautiful mountain. Seeing it so close put a little pep in my step.

As the morning turned to afternoon, the temperature rose, increasing my gratitude for the constant tree cover. It was hot! I found a nice shady Tentsite right before my big climb of the day and leisurely ate my lunch. The menu for today included bread with cheese and meat sticks, jalapeño chips, a cookie, and a few Nerds gummies. Yum!

Fueled and ready to go, I tackled the first 1,000ft climb with ease. After a long descent, I took a quick break to dip my hands in the cool creak before heading to see Ramona Falls. This waterfall is not on the official PCT, but it’s a very popular alternate that is almost the same length as the PCT.

As I walked alongside the creek leading to the falls, I longed to jump in and take a dip. My shirt was soaked from my sweat and I could feel the heat of the day on my cheeks. Still, I knew I would find it annoying to take 2 breaks so close together and have to take off my socks and shoes, so I waited until the falls. Ramona Falls was big and beautiful, with water cascading down the cubed rocky face beneath it. Unfortunately there was no swimming hole, so I compensated by dipping my hands and enjoying the cool breeze that wafted from the falling water.

After a few snacks and getting my body temperature back to where I wanted it to be, I continued on, ready to tackle the last 4 miles and 2,500ft of elevation gain. The beginning of the climb wasn’t bad, but with about 1.5 miles left to go, I started getting tired. My shirt was soaked with sweat once again, and the sun stood high in the clear sky. The one thing that kept me going was the promise of an unforgettable campsite in Paradise Park.

Once I reached the top, I knew that all the hard work was worth it. Mt. Hood stood clear and unobstructed in front of me while alpine meadows filled with wildflowers greeted me. It was peaceful and serene at the base of Mt. Hood.

And I wasn’t alone in wanting to camp in Paradise. There were a number of other campers scattered about, but it didn’t seem like many thru-hikers were up here. Eventually I found the perfect campsite and sat down to dinner and the greatest show on earth: the sunset. And this time, it didn’t disappoint. As the sun lowered towards the horizon, its rays softly warmed my face. I could see mountains upon mountains stretch out before me while Mt. Hood stood at my back. As I ate my dinner, the sky took on a rosy then fiery hue. Being so high in elevation, the sunset seemed to last forever. I have to say, I think it’s been the best one on trail yet.

Paradise Park truly is paradise. As the sun fades, I can see Portland, Vancouver, and other towns along the Columbia River twinkling in the distance. The crickets chirp softly while the muffled sound of a snowmelt stream burbles in the background. Tonight is an amazing night.

And that’s a day in the life of a PCT SOBO hiker!

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