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The Appalachian Mountain Club Tried to Kill Me In the Presidentials

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Day 105- 15 Miles today from Mizpah Hut Campsite to Osgood Campsite, 4600 Feet Up, 6000 Feet down, 1874 AT Mile Marker

The AMC

The AMC controls all of the huts, shelters and campsites in the Whites. Known as the Appalachian Mountain Club it’s often referred to as the Appalachian Money Club or Always Making Cash.

I have no problem paying a few dollars for the services of the caretakers at the shelters and campsites. They do a great job maintaining the facilities and packing in a lot of us hikers.

I also have no problem with the rich people paying $175 a night to stay in the huts. I am glad they are out here enjoying the wilderness. Their enjoyment will only support our continued enjoyment of these public resources.

I do have a big problem with the fact that there are no resources for us thru hikers to camp midway through the Presidentials. I have looked at this section many times with fear. When you leave the Mizpah campsite there are no other resources to camp reliably until the Osgood campsite on the back end of the Presidentials.

Tad told me that it may be the Federal Agencies controlling the land. I’m suspicious that it is the fact that us thru hikers don’t spend a lot of money. Especially when you see all the people who do spend lots of money here in the middle of the wilderness.

What really upset me was the fact that I have walked almost 1,900 miles, been given great support from communities all along this far but now I’m treated like a third class citizen. A campsite for us thru hikers is needed somewhere between Mizpah and Osgood.

Weather Surprise

I checked the weather when I had cell phone reception yesterday. It looked like a possibility of a little bit of rain in the morning. But then today was supposed to be a nice sunny day. Cell phone reception yesterday at Crawfords Notch was non-existent. I did not get a chance to check the weather before I headed into the Presidentials.

I knew it was going to be a little bit of rain in the morning so I took off after visiting with Knockerz.

I was super conscientious about carrying excess weight so I did not carry my merino wool sweater. I really wish I had now. I held it held it in my hands, knew it had a little bit of weight to it, and decided I needed to go as light as possible on all these climbs and left it behind. Yesterday it rained all day. Now my hiking clothes are wet.

Cold Wet Hiking Clothes

I went to bed early yesterday around 4:00. The weather was cold but not bitter cold. I have been carrying my merino wool tights, puffy, and my 15 degree sleeping bag this whole time in anticipation of being up here in the Whites.

All of these items will be remaining in my trash compactor bag and must stay dry. As long as I can get someplace dry then get inside of these items I will be okay. That was definitely the situation last night.

Unfortunately I will have to put on my wet hiking clothes from yesterday so I know it will be very cold this morning when I start off. That will give me extra motivation to hike.

I woke up about 1:30 am and grabbed my wet tights and my wet hiking shirt and wrapped them around my chest in the hope to get them a little bit dry but at the very least warm them before I had to put them on.

This morning they are not ice cold but they are wet and cold. I have wet and cold socks, shorts, buff, and my shoes are wet.

A Thru Hiker Shelter or Campsite is Needed AMC

I’m praying that the weather forecast hasn’t changed dramatically since yesterday. I have no cell phone reception.

I have three options now option number one I can try to get into Madison Hut (but that only happens at 4:00 p.m. and only two people are giving work for stay options). Option number two I can climb through the unmarked boulder fields a thousand feet down off the AT into one to the Randolf shelters that’s outside of the alpine zone. Or option three I can go down to Osgood which will be a very long day.

It’s 4:30 in the morning and I’m going to pack up. By the time I get packed up it will be light out. I am hoping when I open the tent up I will look up and see a sky of stars meaning it is clear weather.

Mountain Man

I hit the trail at 5:30 in the morning. I’m not exactly sure what the weather is going to be like but based on yesterday’s forecast it’s supposed to be partly clear. I don’t have anything warm to wear while I’m hiking so I’m hoping it stays warm. Right now it’s not bad maybe 50 degrees. It is wet from yesterday and all the trees I brush up against douse me with even more water.

As I’m climbing around Mount Eisenhower I came up on a startled older man. He had apparently slept directly on the trail taking some spruce limbs and laying them down as a pad. It didn’t look like he had a whole lot of gear. But yet he survived.

My first thought was that he was a day hiker. I looked down and saw a backpack with a very cheap looking bed roll. He looked cautiously at me thinking I might try to fine him for illegal camping. So I said hello and moved on.

A little while later it dawned on me what an idiot I was. I should have stopped and made sure he was okay. I should have asked him if he needed food or water. I will try my best not to miss that opportunity again.

A Sprint Across the Presidentials

As I’m approaching Franklin Mountain the clouds started to part a little bit. I was cold and wet and looking forward to some sun to warm me up.

I stopped at the Lake of the Clouds Hut and was able to get leftover eggs, coffee, and a gingerbread cake.

The old man that slept on the trail arrived also. I told him I was sorry I didn’t ask if he needed help and he absolved me of my guilt and said he was fine. His name is William.

Mount Washington!

I left the hut and made it up the 1.5 mile long boulder field to the top of Mount Washington. The summit was not yet crowded so I was able to walk right up to the sign and get my picture.

I went down to the lower basement of the snack bar and used the hot water to take a hiker trash bath of areas that haven’t been washed in a while in the bathroom sink.

I didn’t stay long at the summit because I still have a lot of hiking to do to get to Osgood. I did do the obligatory mooning of the tram as it passed full of tourists. I’m sure they were pleased that I took a hiker trash bath first!

Boulder Hopping Hell

The trail up here is nothing but boulders for miles. There are cairnes to mark the trail. A lot of the cairnes are topped with a white rock to symbolize the white blazes of the Appalachian Trail.

It was rocky and technical to Lake of the Clouds Hut. After that hut it was 1.5 miles of boulders and rocks to the summit of Mount Washington. After Mount Washington it was 6 miles of rocks and boulders to Madison Hut. It was hell hiking made even worse by the long miles I had to accomplish because of the lack of any campsites in this section of the AMC controlled Whites.

More Boulder Hell

It is really amazing up here above the tree line in the alpine zone. The mountains are so dramatic and the views are out of this world. However the rocks and boulders were hell.

It was a hell of a boulder field to get to the Madison Hut. It was getting late and I still had a lot of miles of boulder field to cross.

I looked up with dread because after the Madison Hut I had to climb Mount Madison at 1,000 ft per mile for a half a mile. I could see that climb from down here. I was already wiped out from all the boulder hiking I have had to push my way through to this point in the day.

Are These Boulder Fields Ever Going to End?

I then still had miles of boulder field to navigate down off Madison before being able to start dropping off out of the alpine zone. I had three more miles to go before I can set up my tent.

The exhausting climb of Mount Madison was sometimes rock climbing steep. After that the rocks were never ending. Every time I looked up I would see another cairn off the next rise. Then after crossing that next rise I would look out into another boulder field and see another rise with a cairn on top of it. This repeated so many times I feared it would never end. My feet, ankles, knees, and calves were killing me. I was exhausted.

I would have to climb over all different sizes of the rocks and boulders some sharp on my feet. Some of the rocks were loose and would move when you stepped on them.

I finally got out of the Alpine zone and reached tree line. Unfortunately I had 1,800 ft to drop in 1 mile before I could set up my tent. I was exhausted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Destinations & Things To Do

Day 93: The Katahdhin Stream Campground Miracle Arrives

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  • Zeroing nearby Hanover, NH (1756.1)
  • 0 feet ascent, 0 feet descent 

On Tuedsay, the 11th day of November, 1975, I stood at the Baxter State Park boundary, near Abol Bridge and gazed into mist knowing Katahdin was close. It was exactly 6 months to the day I had started hiking the Appalachian Trail. This was my ending point. It was an intensely emotional moment. I placed my hand on my breast and vowed never to climb the that mountain until I had completed the rest of the Appalachian Trail. Part of me knew it was a vow based on process. Don’t finish until you are ready. The emotional part of my younger self felt I did not deserve to climb Katahdin because I had failed at hiking all of the Appalachian Trail. 

I kept that vow, even when I lived close enough to have ascended Katahdin. Now, just miles from completing all but Katahdin, I am afraid I cannot do it. I am afraid I am too old. I am afraid it will be too hard. I failed at my original thru hike. I am afraid I am not worthy. 

Am I Worthy?

I was quite young when I did my original thru hike attempt. In my freshman year of college, I struck a deal with my mother than I would finish my Associate of Arts degree before I left. I guess that gave her one year to hold on to me before I bolted. I worked and waited and finished my AA. I was mature for my age, but still pretty innocent to the world having lived most of my life either in a tent, looking after the family, or studying. 

Hiking the Appalachian Trail is hard now. Hiking the Appalachian Trail in 1975 was harder. There were no shuttles, no hostels, no trail angels, and most of all, for me, almost no other people around. 1975 was the first year that the total number of thru hikers exceeded 100, in part because of Warren Doyle’s group of 19 thru hikers

I mostly hiked alone. Sometimes for days. I did hike with Warren’s group for a few days. They had a support van and I was lugging my stuff. After several 20+ mile days, I did a 34.6 mile day to keep up with them. I was painfully lonely.

That night, I arrived in camp after dusk. Everyone else had eaten and was in bed. I was so exhausted I could not even get my tent up. I knew it was going to rain so I rolled out my foot print and put my tent rain-fly over it and crawled in. A few hours later I woke up and felt around my sleeping bag. My tent footprint had a binding around it causing it to curl up. I was sleeping in a bathtub of water. I was so tired I just put my hands back on my bag and went back to sleep. Everyone was gone when I got up.

In my mind, I was not worthy. I could not keep up with the other hikers. 

Worthiness is Not Really the Question

My current self looks back at my teenage self and feels compassion. Being alone for so long would make anyone a little batty. My feet never healed from continuous blisters caused by heavy, ill-fitting hiking boots. I hiked 6 months on the trail with less than $400 so my food supplies were scant even with the occasional package The Historian and my mom sent. I never told them I was hungry, I was too embarrassed because I thought my money should have gone farther. Sometimes I wonder how I got as far as I did. Worthiness was not the question. Exhaustion, pain, loneliness, and malnourishment were.

I have spent time in psychotherapy over the years and never pulled this belief out to examine it. Now, edging closer and closer to Katahdin, I have been thinking about it. I have also talked about it.

Although I felt shame in not finishing, I have lived beyond that. Every thru hiker who falls short of expectations must do that. It is not a simple thing because it is you who failed you. Your feet, your aerobic condition, your judgement that brought you to the trail, and it is you that pulls you off. 

I love that The Trek includes stories from those of us who “fall short” of a full thru hike. Although we set a full thru hike as the “normal goal” it really is not normal at all. Even doing part of a major hike is an amazing accomplishment. 

Last year, during a stay at the Looking Glass Hostel, we visited with a number of Continental Divide thru hikers at the end of their journey. Most were Triple Crowners. I confessed my unease with having “failed” at my thru hike and to a person they said I was selling myself short. They pointed out what I did was a remarkable achievement.

I knew that it was remarkable and hearing it affirmed my accomplishment. Nonetheless, that young self who stood at the base of Katahdin still has a place in my older self. I view her with kindness and understanding, but she is still there. 

Katahdin Stream Campground Reservations

One of my fears both for my younger self and for my current self is that I won’t be able to get the proper permits to ascend Katahdin. Those are realistic fears!

After speaking with the helpful people at the Appalachian Trail Hostel and Outfitters, I had renewed hope that getting the permit would be possible. They explained that if I could not find a reservation, they could almost always help people get on another person’s permit. 

The permitting system is pretty straightforward. Only a few people are allowed to climb on any one day. You can only stay overnight in Baxter park with a permit and then only at designated places. You get a permit by having the appropriate camping reservation, or by walking in from the 100 Mile Wilderness (presumably as a thru hiker) and being one of the first 12 people to sign up for the selected day. 

We originally planned to walk in from the 100 Mile Wilderness. I had done it but wanted to share it with The Historian so was going to hike it again. About a month ago, with all the heat, we decided that we just did not have it in us to do that.

Consequently, we would have to either have Katahdin Stream campground reservations or we would have to stay in Millinocket, arise very early, take a 45 minute shuttle, climb, and get down by 4 pm to get the shuttle back to Millinocket. I knew we could not finish by 4 pm. 

The Miracle Occurs

On this Sunday morning, I checked one more time to see if there were any camp sites open at Katahdin Stream Campground. Two consecutive nights were open, although at different sites. It was sooner than we planned to be there, but a quick calculation said we could make it if we hurried. The people at Baxter Park reservations office helped link the two nights together. The kind lady said she could not believe there were open sites. 

Not fully understanding how we were “arriving” to climb Katahdin, she admonished me that Katahdin was hard. I told her I understood that. We had a long discussion about my journey from 1975 to today, which included many challenges. By the end of our conversation, she was encouraging me and both of us were misty-eyed. I promised I would stop by after finishing to have a cup of tea with her. 

The Die is Cast

We have reservations to climb Katahdin. It is only a week away. I must hurry along to get there because I want to keep the reasonable part of my vow. I still do not want to climb Katahdin before having completed the rest of the trail. I do not question my worthiness. The Mountain has invited me and I will answer. 

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Destinations & Things To Do

2026 Dodge Durango SRT Hellcat Jailbreak Edition

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Support us! GearJunkie may earn a small commission from affiliate links in this article. Learn More

If you’re thinking about ordering the 2026 Dodge Durango SRT Hellcat Jailbreak edition, be prepared to be overwhelmed. 

As the ‘SRT Hellcat’ name suggests, this special-edition Durango will carry on with the iconic HEMI V-8 under the hood. While Dodge and its siblings at Stellantis, Jeep and Ram, pulled and/or were pulling the plug on the Hemi, it lives on as EPA rules are relaxed and new management takes the reins at the car maker.

That, in itself, will likely draw plenty of attention from midsize SUV buyers. But the Jailbreak package has more to offer. A lot more.

(Photo/Dodge)

Jailbreak = Endless Choices

Have your eye on a particular shade of red, but don’t like the wheels or, perhaps, the interior trim it normally comes with? No problem. That’s what the Jailbreak package is all about.

“We’ve always been a brand about doing things our way,” Dodge CEO Matt McAlear said during a backgrounder briefing on the brand’s newest offering. “So, why shouldn’t customers have the same opportunity?”

To start with, you can order the 2026 Dodge Durango SRT Hellcat Jailbreak in a 5-, 6- or even 7-seat layout. And you can opt for a standard or upgraded sound system, a power sunroof, perhaps, or a trailer tow option. Not enough? How about a rainbow of colors.

(Photo/Dodge)

Add to the list of options:

  • Six exterior colors – plus a Gloss Black hood
  • Six different wheels
  • Four Brembo brake caliper colors
  • Six exterior badge choices
  • Five dual stripe designs
  • Five interior seat colors

If that isn’t enough, you even can choose from five different seatbelt colors.

The HEMI Lives Another Year

(Photo/Dodge)

Dodge likes to call itself the “Brotherhood of Muscle,” but it alienated a lot of long-time loyalists with some of the moves its made lately. It not only ended production of the classic Charger and Challenger muscle cars — replacing them with the all-electric Charger Daytona — but also ended the run of the HEMI in many of its vehicles.

Dodge wasn’t alone, sibling brand Ram also pulled the iconic V-8 from production. Now, the Stellantis is bringing the HEMI back in a wide variety of vehicles, with more likely to be announced soon. 

The specs haven’t changed on the Hellcat HEMI. The supercharged 6.2L engine will punch out 710 horsepower, 645 pound-feet of torque, and one deafening roar when you put the pedal to the metal.

(Photo/Dodge)

Based on 2025 numbers, the monster motor should launch the 2026 Durango SRT Hellcat Jailbreak edition from 0-60 in about 3.5 seconds.

We’ll have to wait for final pricing, and that could vary widely depending on what options each buyer chooses.

Look for the SUV to reach U.S. showrooms this coming fall. But, if you want one, you can order one as soon as August 13th at your local Dodge dealer.





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Short Cuts and Cut Shoes

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Hiking the CDT sobo Lincoln to Helena

Trail Town!

Lincoln was a great trail town! The owner of a bar lets hikers camp behind their building on a perfectly flat, green meadow. After setting up our tents there, we strolled through town in our rain gear on that hot sunny afternoon, to get to the free showers. Not our most glamorous moment for sure. But then we had a drink, a full bag of snack cucumbers and hummus on a bench behind the laundromat. Definitively a glamorous moment from a thru-hikers perspective! 

We made sure to eat a lot of tasty town food in between all our tasks (laundry, charging electronics, resupply, communication with friends and family, blogging, planning the next section) and everywhere we were met friendly.  While hobbling back to our tents, bellies full with good old greasy pizza, I couldn’t help but gush about the blinking lights, the buildings, the wood carving festival…! “Yeah I guess it’s very Americana,” Bugs grinned. 

The hitch back to trail was easy: We danced and smiled by the side of the road with the “hiker to trail” sign that a dear friend of mine had written on my tent’s ground sheet back home. Nearly immediately, we got a parked pick-up driver’s attention. During the drive, we not only learned how he moved to Lincoln for love, but he had also a lot to say about the local mountain lion population. I tried not to listen too much to all his different anecdotes. I’m ok with bears now, but mountain lions just scare me. 

Beautiful ridgeline views into Eastern Montana

It’s about to get painful

Bugs and I were ready to crush miles as we started hiking along the beautiful ridgelines allowing majestic views deep into Eastern Montana.

But soon, I got slower. My heel had already been bugging me in the last section, now the pain was getting excruciating! After 19 miles of slow hobbling and holding back tears I stumbled on a road. Bugs jumped out of the shadows on the other side of the road, looking worried. 

“Are you ok?”

“No, not at all. I might need to camp here.” 

Slowly, we made our way down to a spring. I was flinching with every step, leaning onto my trecking poles and limping heavily. At the spring, we met a lovely hiker again that we’ve last seen in East Glacier. He and Bugs were talking but I just sat on a stone holding my foot, trying not to start crying. I had taken the shoe off and the numbness from the constant pressure of hiking started to wear off. Now the heel was throbbing with intense pain, hot to the touch, although I was barely able to touch it. The others asked me something, but I was unable to understand nor speak, I just shook my head and bit my lip. They understood. 

Desperate times – Desperate measures

It took me a while to breathe through the pain and ask Bugs Bunny if he could bring me some water to cool my foot. Then I fished the tiny nail scissors out of my pack and grimmly began to cut away the heel of my shoe.

“This is either the most stupid thing I could do out here. Or brilliant.” I thought to my self. After all, my shoes were probably my most crucial piece of gear. But I’ve given up so much to be out here, I was not going to let this pain stop me. 

Turned out, it was the a genius move! So much so, that I cut my secound shoe shortly afterwards. Sure, I had to come up with a special lacing technique to keep everything in place. Sure, everything was a bit wobbly and unstable afterwards, which was hard for my ankles. Sure, a lot of dirt, pine needles and tiny stones would get into my shoes now. But I was able to hike out the next morning and continue since. 

The edited version of my trail runners: cut heels and nifty lacing to hold everything in place.

Short cuts and road walks

From then on, Bugs Bunny unleashed his alternate – finding – superpower, constantly looking for short cuts. With my still badly inflamed heel we stumbled along dirt roads, trying to avoid as much elevation gain as possible, since ascends hurt especially bad.

Cute roadside flowers to lift the mood.

So we made our way to the Llama Ranch – apparently an Alpaca Ranch – and enjoyed our first time trail magic treat on their porch with fresh sandwiches and sodas.

Our unmarked alternates lead us into low and dry valleys, where eventually we ran out of water. It wasn’t after walking past several bones and skeletons of livestock that we finally found a trickle.

Is there any water around here? Bugs is checking the maps next to some bones

 

Tired from the unexpected complications we finally made it into Helena fir our first, well deserved zero day.

Fancy town coffees and hey, look! We made a new friend!

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