• Hiked Today: 20.5 miles

  • Appalachian Trail (2,083.8 – 2,104.3)

• Total Hiked: 4,037.5 miles
• Total Paddled: 99.5 miles

Weather: 55-77°F, sunny, with just a few clouds. No wind. Nice.

Elevation: 575 – 2,670 feet

ME Route 15 & Shaw’s Hiker Hostel to Barren Mtn Spot

At 5:40 am I unzipped and crawled out of the tent and then headed into the hiker lounge. I wanted to have all my devices 100% charged and was close, but not quite there yet. Sitting in a cozy chair, a hiker soon walked by with a steaming ceramic mug in hand. That was my cue to go fetch my own cup of joe.

After a while I got myself motivated to start packing up. My tent was pretty soaked with condensation, so I was strategic about setting that out to dry and shoving everything else in first. Inside the house again, the tables had all been set and most hikers gathered a little before 7:00 am for Shaw’s famous hiker breakfast.

It was a wonderful experience. Great conversation, lots of laughs and stories about our silly life on trail, and some of the best victuals (this is a word my dad uses and he’s the only one I know that does) of the entire journey. I devoured it all… crispy bacon, fried potatoes with onions, 3 perfectly fried eggs, and best of all, blueberry pancakes

I sat with Potter, Oatmeal, Jodie (I think), Shorts from Canada and Pooh Bear from Belgium. With folks seated it was a little easier to guestimate how many of us there were and I’d say in the 25-30 range, maybe more. More than a few were hikers I met earlier on trail at various points.

Shaw’s is an incredible place and I had such a wonderful experience staying. On my 2019 hike of the PCT I was fortunate to get the chance to stay with some of the legendary trail angel hosts of that trail, Scout and Frodo’s near the southern terminus and also the Saufley’s “Hiker Heaven.” This felt like those stays… out of the ordinary warmth, kindness, hospitality, and a haven for weary hikers. It’s also been around since the 1970’s I believe, so there’s a ton of character and history that goes along with it. I was happy to have it be part of my ECT experience.

I wanted to get on the first shuttle back to trail if possible. Hoping for a full day of hiking, that early-ish start would be needed. And it worked out. I got myself all packed up, was one of the first to settle up my tab, and didn’t even have to throw any elbows to get a ride in that first vehicle leaving, which was driven by our host, Poet.

In my shuttle were Baby Talk and Rocket, Early Bird, Fire Tower, and Double Take (I think). We were all northbound for Katahdin except Double Take. At the trailhead, Poet gave us some last minute tips for side trail views and such and then left us with a haiku he came up with on his own AT journey. It was silly but thought provoking and heartfelt.

The others shot right on trail, but I stretched out and backtracked some to actually tie my walk together haha. I’m a semi-purist, I guess. Then, I hit it. The air was still and it became quiet quickly getting away from the road. As I passed Fire Tower, we both agreed it already felt like the trail, by offering up the peace and quiet, was suggesting we ruminate about the journey we’ve been on and it becoming nearer to its end. The ponds were near “glass” too furthering this idea of serenity and contemplation.

The first half of the day the hike was characterized by short bursts of up and down, but generally mellow. It was primarily a forest walk and I walked by several more ponds. There was a pretty stellar waterfall at Little Wilson Falls. And later on, the trail went up slightly higher in elevation to some ledges which offered some views.

I found a nice lunch spot around 12:30 pm.

I went into swim mode first, but came up against two challenges when I tried to take my quick dip. First, the boulders were all super slippery being covered with algae. I overcame this obstacle by being slow and careful and doing a kind of crab walk out to the deeper waters where I could finally plop in. The next dilemma, however caused me to retreat… horse flies! Huge ones that were biting my bare back and legs. I was slapping and stunning several, but this was yet another ambush. I retreated to shore, but they were relentless. I was thinking of getting the shoes on and running for my life, but they started to thin. Some lay at my feet and maybe I scared the others off. Maybe their natural habitat is closer to the water and they had to return? Whatever the reason, the onslaught ended and I was safe to enjoy my lunch in peace.

The first few hours of post-lunch were similar to pre-lunch, forestry stuff with some streamside walking. A little before 4:00 pm though, I started up the days bigger climb from around 600 feet elevation up to the 2,670 feet Barren Mountain. There was a first chunk and then it leveled out some before the second chunk sky rocketed up again.

After Barren Mountain, I got some flat-ish woods. See here’s what the trail looked like.

And this is what the woods would look like if I were to just be going cross country and no trail had been made.

I was very tired and considered stoping earlier than my picked out camp spot. The water ahead wasn’t reported to be great and maybe even non-existent at this point since the last report was “trickling” and about a week ago. But the closer camp spot was 0.3 miles off a side trail that was reportedly steep. There was a pond there. It shows how much I dislike going off trail that I kept going.

Once ahead at the water source, it wasn’t great. But, I’d gotten myself into a desperate situation and so made it work. The stream was not flowing anymore, but I found a pool, a.k.a., a puddle to fill up from. The water had a heavy brownish tan tint, but I cared not. Water is water, right? At least that’s what I was trying to convince myself. And so I continued 0.1 miles to a little tentsite and was happy it all worked out!

I got my first chance eating the super SPAM by dicing it up into my mac and cheese. I used one third of it, which was a lot! Pretty good combo though in my opinion. I did not get another loon lullaby this night, but instead was sung to sleep by the swarm of skeeters outside my tent!

It is such an incredible privilege to be on this journey backpacking across the eastern U.S. and I have so much gratitude for the opportunity. As I make the push to finish the Appalachian Trail, I’m also making a push to reach my goal in raising funds for Outdoors Empowered Network (OEN)! I’m trying to raise $2 for every mile I hike and am falling behind! Any amount helps… $2, $5, etc… it all adds up

The sad reality is that so many never come to know the benefits of connecting with nature. I want others to experience this relationship that has been so important in my life. Imagine a kid staring in wonder at a bright and colorful butterfly, laughing at a frog hopping away from them, being curious why the leaves are changing colors with the season. By donating, these are the things you’d be making happen!

So thank you for joining on the journey! It means a lot that you took the time to read up on these adventures. And if you want to help ALL kids get access to the outdoors, please help me in supporting OEN! The “Tip Author” button is a direct link to my fundraising page. Y’all are truly amazing. Thank you!

Podcast of the Day:

“Engines of  Outrage: Parts 1-4” – Landslide

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To learn more, please visit the About This Site page.

Day 2

15.0 miles 3870’ gain 2870 descent

I had my best night of sleep since I left Maryland. Lightning and rain on the window created some anxiety in my early morning thoughts. We loaded the truck in the rain and drove back to Waterton. No beautiful sunrise this time but, the clouds over the mountains were a bit clear.

At the trail head the rain stopped and we said our goodbyes with hugs all around. We started the steep ascent out of Waterton thinking this was what to expect. We slowly lost the view of Waterton Lake and the hotel as we walked along newly weed trimmed trail. We followed a mamma deer and her two fawn up the trail for a good way.

It was a steady climb up to the two Carthew Lakes where we snacked and contemplated the steep climb over the next mile to Carthew Summit. Steep loose trail had us stopping frequently to catch our breath. Grand views revealed themselves at the 7621’ summit. The wind blew continuously and chilled us all into another layer. I decided this was one of my new top ten places. Only the second day and the views didn’t disappoint.

Cold wind as we descended had me putting my hands in my pockets to keep warm. Loose switchbacks eventually had us lower and warmer elevation. We bottomed out at Cameron Lake which was busy with boaters and day hikers. We scored a cold soda and some chairs as we people watched.

It was a short road walk to the Akamina Trailhead where we again climbed another 700’. The area was in a large burn recovering with low level vegetation. We pitched our tents and ate our dinners by the bear boxes. A distant storm provided some thunder, lightning and a little rain.

It was a good first full day with some challenging climbs and first class scenery. Dry feet all day was an extra bonus.

Day 3

18.6 miles, 5100’ gain and 4300’ descent

Akamina to Twin Lakes

The stars were brilliant at 4am promising a clear morning. I was packed and left camp by 6:15am. I let Yard Sale know I was going ahead. Calm air only produced the sounds of my footsteps in the twilight. A few birds were awake providing a gentle chorus.

At the road I picked up water for the reported 12 mile dry stretch later to be false. The road revealed the massive burn of the valley some seven years ago. A mountain sheep meandered across the road giving me cautious looks. In about two miles I turned onto the Rowe/Tamarack Trail preparing for the several thousand feet of climb. Blue sky accentuated the dark green evergreens as I walked quietly on the moist forest floor. There were several water sources in the first two miles not identified on Far Out. After some solid climbing the trail traversed a flat valley below an impressive cirque I would eventually climb out of. Interest in our journey a couple from Calgary out for the weekend chatted with me as I rested.  A long gradual switchback gave access to the Lineham Summit with 360 views including the terrain covered yesterday and Lineham Lakes below.

I took a long break to rest, eat, dry the condensation from my bag, and wait for Yard Sale and Map. Storm clouds were forming so I left after 45 minutes hoping I would catch them at Lone Lake.

A long, loose, and steep descent had my glutes burning. Bottoming out in a burn, the trail climbed up steeply and worked towards the pass before Lone Lake. My legs were spent from the morning climb requiring lots of rests. This GDT was advertised as steep and it hasn’t disappointed.

Rain started as I descended to Lone Lake where I filtered some water and drank a protein shake. Rain gear on I made my way through the now wet vegetation soaking my shoes. Oh well, they were dry most of the day! I moved slowly over the last pass before Twin Lakes taking frequent breaks and a snack break. It was a hard day.

I met a couple at Twin Lakes who gave me the beta on the set up. The woman worked with Parks Canada out of Waterton. She was surprised I covered 18 miles over this steep terrain. I was more tired than surprised!

Yard Sale and Map rolled in about 6:45pm. They saw three grizzlies above the trail and three mountain sheep. They saw the grizzlies where there were two piles of scat in the trail. I was making lots of noise but, didn’t see them. It was a sow and two second year cubs. Impressive animals. Hope I get to see one at a distance!

Day 4

Twin Lake to Scarp Pass

10 miles and 2660’ gain

The overcast sky had me waking to warmer temperatures. With the short day ahead we took our time leaving and on the trail. We stopped frequently and told lots of stories. Another magnificent view awaited us at the first climb. Still overwhelmed. several Chinese Wall type features lined the trail as we climbed two unnamed passes.

We arrived at Scarp Pass early, set up, and ate lunch. Hope and Martin arrived and joined us. We saw Hope on the GDT Facebook post and she remembered us. This is her first long hike so she was happy to hike with Martin from Slovakia.

We plan to do the Burnaby ridge in the morning so it will be an early start.

Day 5

Scarp Pass to Burnaby Lake

15.5 miles 8000’ ascent

The alarm went off at 4:15am and we left camp by 6:00 am at first light. The first climb was brutally steep for 600’ . There were multiple false summits to La Coulotte. Hope and Martin caught us at a saddle prior to La Coulotte and somehow I started hiking with them as the trail was hard to find.

At La Coulotte Hope, Martin and I chose the Burnaby Ridge Alternate while Yard Sale and Map stayed on the red line or the standard route. which would later prove to be a good decision.

The route started with a gnarly drop off that had a chain anchored to the rock. Martin had rock climbing experience which was invaluable so he led the way. Hope and I managed the chain assisted descent with some apprehension, not knowing there would be more sketchy sections to manage.

We ascended two more peaks after La Coulotte each feeling similar in steepness to the last 1500’ of 14ners in Colorado. We celebrated being together, had a snack, and looked at the next ridge line to tackle. We descended and ascended the next peak when the ridge got sketchy. Again, Martin scouted and led. Hope was a little sketched out descending the loose scree between the steep ledges. I coached Hope drawing on my limited rock experience but, I mostly encouraged her  confidence. Next was an even sketchier spot. The severity of this section made me check Far Out. I told Martin and Hope we were on the wrong ridge. After several appropriate expletives given the severe penalty of this mistake, I turned around and Hope was already climbing up. Admittedly, she was ready to get out of there.

With a big chunk out of or egos, we retraced our steps back to the peak. The correct ridge line was much easier looking and we just assumed the wrong and more difficult ridge was correct. Martin felt bad as our informal leader but, I told him we all had the ability to check our Far Out app., so we were all equally responsible for the mistake. However, the endeavor was jokingly named the “Martin Alternate”!

There were two warning triangles on the  Far Out app. The first was another chain descent around an 8 meter cliff that was not bad give everything else we had already done. The second was a narrow ridge line that we chose supposedly easier alternate around. Marked with orange paint, we ascended below the ridge line. A faint orange painter arrow on the rock indicated the climb up to the ridge. With Martin scouting and leading, Hope and I slowly ascended the steep scramble some 300’ back to the ridge. While we didn’t do the narrow ridge, I’m not sure the work around was much easier. At the crest, Hope followed me and was supportive across a gnarly rocky ridge. It was comforting to know she had my back.

After several more steep ups and downs it was 3pm and we had only made 10 miles, we took the second well deserved sit down break of the day. With five more miles to go and three more ridge peaks, I knew I was going to have to dig deep and be patient with what my body had left.

The wind on the exposed ridges had increased from 30-40mph to 60-70mph making the ascents even harder and wearing on me emotionally. The last climb was extremely long and steep up red, loose shale. I could see the Castle Mountain Sky Resort below where Yard Sale and Map were planned to camp. I could envision them down there in calm breezes and warmer temperatures looking up at us, maybe having a beer at the bar. Envious of their plight, all I could focus on was getting to camp.

The last long descent to Burnaby Lake where we would camp was brutal on our tired feet and legs. Martin was kind to drop his pack and backtrack to help me navigate the last sketchy down climb. He is a solid young man! At camp, it was hugs all around! Hope was enamored by how we just met a day ago and how today we supported each other in tough spots both physically and emotionally.

In the end, we went about 15 plus miles and climbed about 8000’.  We reached camp at 7:10pm, about 13 hours after our start that seemed like a day ago. A quick dinner with my new friends was followed by the best feeling of laying down for the night. I was tired, satisfied but, will think twice about future alternates!

Day 6

Burnaby Lake to Just before Coleman

28 miles 4700’ gain 4800’ descent

I was the first to leave the Burnaby Lake and there was more slippery downhill reminding me of my sore legs. A lovely river preceded a paved road walk as the morning emerged and the birds woke up.

The first climb through the trees was steep but, not rocky or wind blown like yesterday. On tired legs I let out my whoo-oop bear alert and I heard a similar familiar response above me from Yard Sale and Map. Soon I was rejoined by my friends to share our stories from yesterday. They stayed at a hostel and got showers but, no beer! It was great to be reunited.

Soon we were joined by Martin and later by Hope at Lynx Creek where we had lunch by the river on a picnic table! I helped Hope treat some blisters and we were on our way. We chose a mostly gravel road route on the way to Havens Bridge 25 miles away. We met a fisherman, a tourist from Edmonton, and a GDT hiker.

Havens Bridge had no camp spots so we forged on looking for stealth spots along the road. Striking out, we went about another 4 miles and camped with Martin near the river. It was a long day but, we only had about 4 miles into Coleman the next day.

Day 7

4 miles to Coleman

It was raining when we woke up and started our walk to Coleman with umbrellas up. Hope caught us for breakfast at Chris’ restaurant where we devoured eggs, ham, cheese, sausage, French toast, fruit, coffee and OJ.

We caught up on our phones at Kindred Coffee while we waited to meet Trail Boss and Kelly who brought us our food boxes. Trail Boss, Map, and Kelly did our laundry and mailed our boxes while we did chores back at the room.  After a great shower, we ate dinner at the Rum Runner before Trail Boss, and Kelly returned home. I am so grateful to be a part of a great group of friends!

We are all tired.

At a certain point, hiking 15+ miles a day every day for five months wears on you. On top of the physical aspects that are causing more persistent foot pain and weariness, there have been growing mental and emotional battles.

Less than a week after Cheese left, Fail announced he was going to leave the trail too. Cheese I was already missing, but I had weeks to prepare mentally for his departure, and we left knowing we would be able to stay friends after the trail. Fail’s departure was less of a slow preparation to leave the trail in favor of something else (law school, for Cheese), and more of a snapping of a over-tightened elastic band. Fail has been struggling with pain and rotating injuries for months, and he has said repeatedly that he is really only still on the trail because he likes hanging out with us. Otherwise, he doesn’t like the hiking and he wants to be home. Despite his protestations and complaining week after week, I’m not sure any of us really believed he would quit.

And then he did.

The loss of Fail came at a shit time for me, personally. He was one of my first trail friends, and he and Cheese and Stoker were my original tramily since  Hot Springs, NC. That’s about 1300 miles of hiking together, and 4.5 months of knowing each other, which on the trail, is a long time. I never expected him to leave, and after Cheese was gone I told the remaining tramily I would be taking some time alone, skipping the next zero to go my own pace for a week, intending to reset mentally and process over some other frustrations that come with spending 24/7 with the same people for weeks on end.

Over the last few weeks as we prepared to send Cheese off, the tramily dynamics got a little tense, and communication wasn’t flowing in the normal way. What was once easy and fun hiking with friends day in and day out became more and more alone time, which isn’t always a bad thing, and I got to spend more time with Mountain Dew in the process, which was a great thing! Taking time alone in the woods can quickly change from giving yourself space to think and process to spinning in circles without resolution, creating imaginary scenarios where everything goes wrong. It’s important to bounce ideas off other people and get feedback for those crazy thoughts loops when you have the chance, and I’m grateful for Mountain Dew for hearing me talk through a lot of the same thoughts for the last week.

Mountain Dew was also taking some time alone after losing her last original tramily member herself. We grieved together for our loss of Cheese, and when Fail told us he was leaving, we cried together and squeezed each other tight as we felt guilt for our friend leaving as soon as we went our own way on the trail.

It turns out that the trail is just like the rest of life. We have entered the era of friend drama and emotional difficulties. The trail is just the background to our everyday lives out here together, and it’s just as easy to create problems here as it is anywhere. Sadly, not everyone finds the strenuous walks through the woods and over hills everyday to be calming, joyful, or worth it in any sense. For Fail, he stuck it out for longer than he ever wanted to, and now we will stick it out the rest of the way without him.

Mountain Dew and I did a rainy slack pack southbound into Manchester, Vermont on Fail’s last day. We met him at a restaurant in town with Gaslight and Roadhog, shaking from the cold of our damp clothes after we had been out in the wet day and accidentally tromped through a beaver bog off trail trying to take a short cut. We video called Cheese, who Fail would be seeing soon since they will be temporary roommates until Cheese finds a place for himself in his new city.

When Becky arrived to pick Fail up and take him home, it was all I could do to hold back my tears. We hugged each other and he reassured me that we would see each other again. Of course, knowing that I really will be able to hang out with him in the future helps with the sadness, but in the moment of losing one of my oldest trail friends while already feeling the mental pressures of being on the trail for so long myself… Well, I was sad. Real bummer, knowing I won’t have my long-term hiking friends with me at the end of this journey.

But we move on. Roadhog and Gaslight choosing to continue their hike together at a slower pace, planning to finish the trail in late September. Mountain Dew and I are blazing our own trail together now, heading off through the last of Vermont and into New Hampshire soon enough. While we moved forward alone, we decided to take it easy and give ourselves the time and space to relax for a moment. After warming up and cleaning off at a local hostel for the night, we caught a ride up to a trail head that would be only a 2 mile hike to a lake. There, we would spend the afternoon and night, trying to soothe our exhausted hearts and minds while we also allowed our bodies more time to rest.

The lake was beautiful, and it was indeed soothing to be able to set up camp in the early afternoon and. Just. Chill. I took a nap, we enjoyed dinner with some new friends (somehow even though we have been on the trail for 4.5 months and keep going the same direction at roughly the same pace, we keep meeting new NOBO hikers!), and I journaled about my mix of emotions flooding my brain from the last few weeks.

After weeks of 15+ miles a day (when we weren’t zeroing in towns), I was indeed tired of the feeling that the trail was just a path to walk on and that the trail itself wasn’t offering much that was worth slowing down for, not that we gave ourselves the time to slow down for much when we had places to be. In these last few weeks, most people I talk to have the same opinion: let’s slow down. Let’s enjoy the ride. Let’s do a 2 mile day to a lake and actually relax while we’re on the trail.

And so we did.

We will make it to Katahdin eventually, even if it’s not with the people we expected.

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