Destinations & Things To Do
The Fisherman’s Trail in Portugal

Today I hiked the Fisherman’s Trail from Arrifana to Carrapateira 0 a solo stretch I’d been craving since the beginning of this trip.
Distance: 20 km
Trail Section: Arrifana to Carrapateira
Conditions: Sunny skies, warm temps, ocean breeze
Highlights of the Fisherman’s Trail Arrifana to Carrapateira Section
This morning started in a 6-bed female dorm room at Lighthouse Hostel – and let’s just say it wasn’t my best night of sleep on trail. Nothing terrible, but definitely the low point sleep-wise. I think it’s safe to say: my hostel dorm chapter might officially be behind me. I’m too old for this, haha.
I grabbed breakfast at a local bakery and stocked up on bread and trail snacks – packed out a couple of croissants (which later became the perfect hiking treat). I decided to solo hike today and meet Orion, Sandra, and Oliver in town tonight. So around 9:30 a.m., I set off on my own.
For the first time on this trail, I decided to hike solo. I’ve been absolutely loving the laughs and connection with my trail crew, but I was craving a little space to just be with myself – reflect, move at my own pace, and soak up the quiet.
All smiles and solo vibes. Day 7 started with sunshine, croissants, and a little space to just be with myself. Let’s go!
On My Own: Reflecting During 12 Kilometers of Road Walking
I called my mum to wish her a Happy Easter and caught up with my family for a few minutes. It grounded me. Full-time travel means missing holidays and family dinners, and today felt bittersweet. I miss being with them. But I’m also really proud of the life I’m choosing – even when it means being far away.
The first 12 km or so were mostly inland road walking, which helped me move quickly but didn’t offer much in the way of views. Still, the time alone felt like exactly what I needed.
BTW – if you missed my blog from yesterday on the Fisherman’s Trail, I’d recommend checking it out!
Solo steps, steady pace. The road walk wasn’t scenic, but it gave me the space I needed to reflect and reconnect.
Peace by the Sea: Finding My Flow on the Fisherman’s Trail
When I finally rejoined the coast, I laid out my Therm-a-Rest pad (a.k.a. my yoga mat) and took a long break by the sea. The sun was shining, the waves were calm.
It always takes a few days to settle into the rhythm of hiking. That inner noise doesn’t just disappear. But today, I found it: the stillness, the flow, the presence I’d been craving.
Back at the coast and back in flow. I stretched out on my pad, listened to the waves, and finally felt that deep, quiet ease I’d been missing.
Saltwater + Laughter: An Impromptu Ocean Swim in Carrapateira
Just as the trail descended toward the beach, I caught back up with the group – and convinced Orion to sprint into the ocean with me. We dove in, fully clothed, crashing through the waves. It didn’t feel cold until we got out, soaked and towel-less, laughing and shivering on the sand.
We’re staying together tonight in a cozy apartment in Carrapateira. After showers and downtime, we wandered into town for what turned out to be my favorite meal on trail so far.
Soaked, salty, and smiling. Nothing like a cold Atlantic dip to feel fully alive. 10/10 would sprint into the waves again.
I cannot get enough of these rock formations—like just look how cool this is!! Nature really popped off with this coastline.
Easter on Trail: Seafood, Vinho Verde, and the Joy of Reuniting
We started with gooseneck barnacles (Portugal’s weirdest and most delicious delicacy) and shared a rich seafood casserole with potatoes. We ordered not one, but two pitchers of vinho verde – which of course led to even more laughter and joy. The perfect Easter celebration, trail edition.
Clams, shrimp, octopus, and potatoes all bubbling together in one dreamy seafood casserole. Shared this post-swim feast with Orion and it was hands down the best dinner of the whole trail. Coastal comfort food at its finest.
3 Things I’ll Remember from Today:
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Sometimes hiking solo is exactly what your heart needs <3
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Croissants make excellent trail fuel.
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Cold ocean swims + vinho verde = a very good day.
Tomorrow we’ll be hiking from Carrapateira to Vila do Bispo. See you tomorrow for Day 8 on the Fisherman’s Trail!
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To learn more, please visit the About This Site page.
Destinations & Things To Do
Topo Athletic Mtn Racer 4 Review

Shoes are a deeply personal gear choice and what works great for one person might be a disaster for another. I have always been hesitant to review a pair of shoes for that reason, but I’ve been wearing Topos for the last couple of years and was excited to give a new to me model of theirs a try with the Mtn Racer 4.
These trail runners notable features include Topo’s signature roomy toe box, Vibram outsole, and increased cushioning. Topo Athletic has become a popular brand in the hiking and running world as of late, and was the #1 brand of shoe used on the Appalachian Trail in 2024. Learning about them through the AT survey is actually what prompted me to give Topo’s a try a couple of years ago.
Stack Height: 33mm (heel) / 28mm (forefoot)
Heel to Toe Drop: 5mm
Weight: 10.4 OZ (M9); 8.5 OZ (W7)
Gaiter Compatible: Yes
Rock Plate: No
Cushion: High
Underfoot Feel: Responsive
Support: Neutral
MSRP: $155
Intended Use
These shoes are best for trail running and racing. They certainly can be used for hiking and backpacking as well, but I can see how they’re geared more towards runners compared to some of their other models. In my opinion, the high cushion without sacrificing the shoe’s responsiveness is what gives them that edge for running. I put them to the test while hiking, running, and racing over the course of reviewing them.
Circumstance of Review
I tested the Mtn Racer 4 in a wide variety of trail and activity types the past couple of months. I’ve used them trail running, in a trail race, hiking, an overnight backpacking trip, and even a few road running miles. The various terrains I used them in included mud, some snow patches, packed trail, steep and rocky trail, and some road. I’ve put a total of about 50 miles on them so far.
Features
Anatomical Toe Box
All Topos have the foot shape toe box many hikers have come to know and love. It’s particularly great for those of us with wide feet (including me). They pair this with a secure midfoot and heel, so they’re not too loose. I think people without wide feet could benefit from the roomy toe box— it’s honestly a game changer and I wouldn’t go back to a shoe without it.
As many people find out on thru-hikes, most people are cramming their feet in shoes that are too small for them without even realizing, leading to foot pain and blisters. Let your toes breathe!
Vibram Outsole
Vibram is the gold standard when it comes to traction. I know I’ll be in good hands with any Vibram sole in terms of traction and wear time. It gives me more confidence on those rocky or wet trails.
Zip Foam Cushioning
I was looking forward to trying a higher cushion model of the Topos. The Mtn Racer 4 has their proprietary Zip Foam which is springier than EVA and offers more rebound over the life of the shoe. I found the cushioning to give the benefits of foam without being overkill and making the shoe feel too soft or unstable. The responsiveness of the Mtn Racer also allowed me to feel the terrain very well— which isn’t normally what I would expect from a higher cushioned shoe— but I did appreciate it.
Gaiter Compatibility
The Mtn Racer 4 includes an updated and (mostly) universal gaiter attachment system. This is definitely a bonus for trips when you want to keep excess debris out of your shoes. I didn’t have the chance to use this, but it looks like a solid and intuitive system.
Heel Drop
A 5mm drop falls in the middle of the range for most running shoes. Heel drop is something that has a lot to do with each specific person’s foot and running or walking style. It’s definitely something to take note of and compare what your feet are used to, as changing it up significantly too quickly can cause problems.
Zero drop is a popular option out there but, personally, doesn’t work well for me. I usually go for a 3-5mm drop, so this shoe was great for me.
Durability
I’ve put about 50 miles on these shoes, and so far see no real signs of wear other than the dirt stains. I’ve had several pairs of Topos at this point, and I have almost always replaced them due to the amount of miles I’ve put on them rather than any wear on the uppers. My cue to replace them is to look at the cushioning and see how compressed it is or if I notice my feet starting to be more sore than usual after a run or hike. To me, if the cushioning from use is the first thing to go on a shoe, it’s doing well in terms of durability.
Fit & Comfort
As mentioned previously, the Mtn Racer 4 has a roomy toe box like all Topo Athletic shoes. I found this model to fit slightly more snug in the midfoot than some other Topos I’ve worn in the same size (a women’s 10). The other models I’ve tried were a more hiking focused shoe (the Terraventure), and a couple road running models.
They felt like they were shaped a bit differently than other models of their shoes, which is totally normal across a brand. The heel was also a bit looser. I had to take some time to break them in and hone in my lacing strategy for them to work for me. After breaking them in though, they were still plenty comfortable. In the future I might consider going up half a size in the Mtn Racers for just a smidge more room in the midfoot.
These shoes also have neutral support, which I always look for in a shoe, and is another aspect of a shoe that is different for everyone.
Topo Mtn Racer 4 Pros
High Cushion: Cushioning helps your feet hurt less, and I’m all for that! I haven’t had the chance to use a trail shoe with a higher level of cushion until now. It certainly did not disappoint.
Responsiveness: Getting extra momentum from your shoe really lets you lean into the terrain you’re in, and I appreciated this from the Mtn Racer 4. I appreciated it the most while trail running, but it also keeps you going with hiking too.
Vibram Outsole: Having good traction is so important with technical terrain, and the Vibram outsole with great lugs on the Mtn Racer 4 will do you well.
Topo Mtn Racer 4 Cons
Fit: This model felt a bit more snug in the midfoot, but looser in the heel than other Topo Models, and took more time to break in for me. For someone with a different foot shape than me, this could be a good thing.
No Rock Plate: A rock plate is always a nice addition for a trail shoe, but I didn’t feel like it was greatly missed. It’s always a balance of what features work together and you can choose so many for one pair of shoes.
Overall
Topo Athletic has put out another solid trail shoe with the Mtn Racer 4. I would recommend it to hikers— especially trail runners. Definitely take a look at all the specs to make sure it’s something that will work for you between the heel drop, the support type, and anything else in a shoe you’re partial too.
Comparable Products
Altra Olympus
MSRP: $175
Heel Drop: 0mm
Weight: 12.2 oz (M) / 10.95oz (W)
Topo Athletic Ultraventure 4
MSRP: $155
Heel Drop: 5mm
Weight: 10.4oz (M9) / 8.7oz (W7)
Hoka Speedgoat 6
MSRP: $155
Heel Drop: 5mm
Weight: 9.8oz (M) / 8.2oz (W)
This product was donated for purpose of review
This website contains affiliate links, which means The Trek may receive a percentage of any product or service you purchase using the links in the articles or advertisements. The buyer pays the same price as they would otherwise, and your purchase helps to support The Trek’s ongoing goal to serve you quality backpacking advice and information. Thanks for your support!
To learn more, please visit the About This Site page.
Destinations & Things To Do
Top International Trips From India That Spell 'Sibling Travel Goals' – Travel and Leisure Asia

Top International Trips From India That Spell ‘Sibling Travel Goals’ Travel and Leisure Asia
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Destinations & Things To Do
The Appalachian Mountain Club Tried to Kill Me In the Presidentials

Day 105- 15 Miles today from Mizpah Hut Campsite to Osgood Campsite, 4600 Feet Up, 6000 Feet down, 1874 AT Mile Marker
The AMC
The AMC controls all of the huts, shelters and campsites in the Whites. Known as the Appalachian Mountain Club it’s often referred to as the Appalachian Money Club or Always Making Cash.
I have no problem paying a few dollars for the services of the caretakers at the shelters and campsites. They do a great job maintaining the facilities and packing in a lot of us hikers.
I also have no problem with the rich people paying $175 a night to stay in the huts. I am glad they are out here enjoying the wilderness. Their enjoyment will only support our continued enjoyment of these public resources.
I do have a big problem with the fact that there are no resources for us thru hikers to camp midway through the Presidentials. I have looked at this section many times with fear. When you leave the Mizpah campsite there are no other resources to camp reliably until the Osgood campsite on the back end of the Presidentials.
Tad told me that it may be the Federal Agencies controlling the land. I’m suspicious that it is the fact that us thru hikers don’t spend a lot of money. Especially when you see all the people who do spend lots of money here in the middle of the wilderness.
What really upset me was the fact that I have walked almost 1,900 miles, been given great support from communities all along this far but now I’m treated like a third class citizen. A campsite for us thru hikers is needed somewhere between Mizpah and Osgood.
Weather Surprise
I checked the weather when I had cell phone reception yesterday. It looked like a possibility of a little bit of rain in the morning. But then today was supposed to be a nice sunny day. Cell phone reception yesterday at Crawfords Notch was non-existent. I did not get a chance to check the weather before I headed into the Presidentials.
I knew it was going to be a little bit of rain in the morning so I took off after visiting with Knockerz.
I was super conscientious about carrying excess weight so I did not carry my merino wool sweater. I really wish I had now. I held it held it in my hands, knew it had a little bit of weight to it, and decided I needed to go as light as possible on all these climbs and left it behind. Yesterday it rained all day. Now my hiking clothes are wet.
Cold Wet Hiking Clothes
I went to bed early yesterday around 4:00. The weather was cold but not bitter cold. I have been carrying my merino wool tights, puffy, and my 15 degree sleeping bag this whole time in anticipation of being up here in the Whites.
All of these items will be remaining in my trash compactor bag and must stay dry. As long as I can get someplace dry then get inside of these items I will be okay. That was definitely the situation last night.
Unfortunately I will have to put on my wet hiking clothes from yesterday so I know it will be very cold this morning when I start off. That will give me extra motivation to hike.
I woke up about 1:30 am and grabbed my wet tights and my wet hiking shirt and wrapped them around my chest in the hope to get them a little bit dry but at the very least warm them before I had to put them on.
This morning they are not ice cold but they are wet and cold. I have wet and cold socks, shorts, buff, and my shoes are wet.
A Thru Hiker Shelter or Campsite is Needed AMC
I’m praying that the weather forecast hasn’t changed dramatically since yesterday. I have no cell phone reception.
I have three options now option number one I can try to get into Madison Hut (but that only happens at 4:00 p.m. and only two people are giving work for stay options). Option number two I can climb through the unmarked boulder fields a thousand feet down off the AT into one to the Randolf shelters that’s outside of the alpine zone. Or option three I can go down to Osgood which will be a very long day.
It’s 4:30 in the morning and I’m going to pack up. By the time I get packed up it will be light out. I am hoping when I open the tent up I will look up and see a sky of stars meaning it is clear weather.
Mountain Man
I hit the trail at 5:30 in the morning. I’m not exactly sure what the weather is going to be like but based on yesterday’s forecast it’s supposed to be partly clear. I don’t have anything warm to wear while I’m hiking so I’m hoping it stays warm. Right now it’s not bad maybe 50 degrees. It is wet from yesterday and all the trees I brush up against douse me with even more water.
As I’m climbing around Mount Eisenhower I came up on a startled older man. He had apparently slept directly on the trail taking some spruce limbs and laying them down as a pad. It didn’t look like he had a whole lot of gear. But yet he survived.
My first thought was that he was a day hiker. I looked down and saw a backpack with a very cheap looking bed roll. He looked cautiously at me thinking I might try to fine him for illegal camping. So I said hello and moved on.
A little while later it dawned on me what an idiot I was. I should have stopped and made sure he was okay. I should have asked him if he needed food or water. I will try my best not to miss that opportunity again.
A Sprint Across the Presidentials
As I’m approaching Franklin Mountain the clouds started to part a little bit. I was cold and wet and looking forward to some sun to warm me up.
I stopped at the Lake of the Clouds Hut and was able to get leftover eggs, coffee, and a gingerbread cake.
The old man that slept on the trail arrived also. I told him I was sorry I didn’t ask if he needed help and he absolved me of my guilt and said he was fine. His name is William.
Mount Washington!
I left the hut and made it up the 1.5 mile long boulder field to the top of Mount Washington. The summit was not yet crowded so I was able to walk right up to the sign and get my picture.
I went down to the lower basement of the snack bar and used the hot water to take a hiker trash bath of areas that haven’t been washed in a while in the bathroom sink.
I didn’t stay long at the summit because I still have a lot of hiking to do to get to Osgood. I did do the obligatory mooning of the tram as it passed full of tourists. I’m sure they were pleased that I took a hiker trash bath first!
Boulder Hopping Hell
The trail up here is nothing but boulders for miles. There are cairnes to mark the trail. A lot of the cairnes are topped with a white rock to symbolize the white blazes of the Appalachian Trail.
It was rocky and technical to Lake of the Clouds Hut. After that hut it was 1.5 miles of boulders and rocks to the summit of Mount Washington. After Mount Washington it was 6 miles of rocks and boulders to Madison Hut. It was hell hiking made even worse by the long miles I had to accomplish because of the lack of any campsites in this section of the AMC controlled Whites.
More Boulder Hell
It is really amazing up here above the tree line in the alpine zone. The mountains are so dramatic and the views are out of this world. However the rocks and boulders were hell.
It was a hell of a boulder field to get to the Madison Hut. It was getting late and I still had a lot of miles of boulder field to cross.
I looked up with dread because after the Madison Hut I had to climb Mount Madison at 1,000 ft per mile for a half a mile. I could see that climb from down here. I was already wiped out from all the boulder hiking I have had to push my way through to this point in the day.
Are These Boulder Fields Ever Going to End?
I then still had miles of boulder field to navigate down off Madison before being able to start dropping off out of the alpine zone. I had three more miles to go before I can set up my tent.
The exhausting climb of Mount Madison was sometimes rock climbing steep. After that the rocks were never ending. Every time I looked up I would see another cairn off the next rise. Then after crossing that next rise I would look out into another boulder field and see another rise with a cairn on top of it. This repeated so many times I feared it would never end. My feet, ankles, knees, and calves were killing me. I was exhausted.
I would have to climb over all different sizes of the rocks and boulders some sharp on my feet. Some of the rocks were loose and would move when you stepped on them.
I finally got out of the Alpine zone and reached tree line. Unfortunately I had 1,800 ft to drop in 1 mile before I could set up my tent. I was exhausted.
This website contains affiliate links, which means The Trek may receive a percentage of any product or service you purchase using the links in the articles or advertisements. The buyer pays the same price as they would otherwise, and your purchase helps to support The Trek’s ongoing goal to serve you quality backpacking advice and information. Thanks for your support!
To learn more, please visit the About This Site page.
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