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How I aced solo travel with a baby

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Auden is gurgling on a picnic blanket when I meet her and her mum, Kate Ivory, in a local park.

Tower Bridge looms behind, the midday sun glinting off its gilded tips. It’s a postcard-perfect setting, but I imagine at this point, it’s just another landmark on a long list for this well-travelled seven-month-old, who has seen a huge arc of Europe already.

The mother and baby have just returned from an epic rail voyage across the Continent, a journey that took them from their home in east London to King’s Cross St Pancras and finished in Pisa, stopping in Germany, Austria, Slovenia and northern Italy on the way. In all, their route took 25 days.

When most new parents would rather, understandably, stay at home and work out how to keep their brand new human alive, single mother Kate booked an Interrail pass, loaded up the pram and took her first-born on a debut tour of the EU. So what made her do it?

Kate’s practical advice for globetrotting parents

  • Cram that pram: You need a solid pram that’s going to get you about. Make sure it’s serviced before you go, and everything fits on it, so you don’t have to carry a single thing. If you need to put your baby in a sling, or get to a train fast, it’s much easier.

  • Route: Plan the journey so you know roughly where you’re going, but leave room for flexibility. The Interrail pass lets you change trains up to 20 minutes before departure.

  • Age: Auden was six months old when we left and turned seven while we were away. I noticed how much harder it was at the end of the trip, because she was crawling more. You could do it with an older baby, but it would look like a different trip.

  • Accommodation: Be clear on what you want; for me, that was air-con and a cot. I always looked for places near the station, so I could put my bag in the station lockers, enjoy the city for the day, and then hop on a train out in the evening.

  • You do you: You don’t have to tailor your itinerary to a baby. We went to a palace with gilded ceilings in Turin, and Auden was fascinated, staring up at it. She loved the things I loved.

  • Back yourself: It’s normal to worry, but just trust your instincts. Also, there’s a world of lovely people out there who will genuinely help you.

“Travelling the world after uni changed my entire outlook on life”, explains 38-year-old Kate, who works in advertising.

“When I went on mat leave, I knew I’d never have this block of free time again. I wanted Auden to come into the world with her eyes open and experience different things. Plus, we were about to start weaning, so it was a good time to go. Her first food could be pasta in Italy!”

From pasta in Italy to schnitzel in Austria, and all between breastfeeding, Kate filled Auden’s baby passport pages as much as her stomach. Even more astoundingly, she did it solo.

“I wanted Auden to come into the world with her eyes open and experience different things”

“I’ve got friends, family and a partner, but I chose to have Auden on my own. I wanted us to have high-quality bonding time, just us,” Kate explains.

“Interrailing is a good way to experience lots of different things at once without boarding a series of flights. Plus, from a money perspective, it’s budget-friendly. I bought the Global Pass (£320), which gives you seven days of travel to use within a month,” she says.

With so many possible destinations and routes on offer — 33 countries are covered in the Global Pass, including overnight trains — I wonder if working out the route was the first challenge.

Bitesize: Auden tries her first foods abroad (Kate Ivory)

“I used ChatGPT to plan the route”

Kate turned to the AI tool, keeping her prompts specific, with requests for pram-accessible trains and quieter departures to avoid rush hour. Mostly, the responses were helpful, she says, but not always infallible. “There were a few times here and there where ChatGPT told me to get a train, but there wasn’t one — only buses.”

Does a trip with an infant in tow require military-grade logistics? “We only had the first two nights and the first train booked”, Kate reveals. “After that, I booked the next leg as we went. It keeps things exciting, it keeps you free. If you arrive somewhere and think, I don’t like it here, you can just get up and go somewhere else.”

“Most countries are way more baby-friendly than the UK, and people I encountered on the trip were so helpful”

“I didn’t worry about safety at all”

Perhaps it’s this free-spiritedness and iron confidence that makes Kate fearless. When I begin to ask if she worried about safety, she tells me it didn’t cross her mind before I’ve even finished my sentence.

“We live in London!” she chuckles. “Most countries are way more baby-friendly than the UK, and people I encountered on the trip were so helpful”.

Though there were some exceptions: “When I crossed into Italy, it was like, “Ooh beautiful baby! Okay, bye!” and they left me with the pram at the top of the stairs,” says Kate.

“To be honest, I didn’t worry at all,” Kate says as Auden wrestles with the picnic blanket next to us. “Lots of people worried about it for me. They’d ask, ‘Why are you going?’ Have you really thought about this?’ ‘You’re going to be on your own, where will you stay?’”

So where do you stay with a baby when you’re travelling on a budget? Not hostels? Actually, yes. “I just booked a private room instead of a dorm, because honestly, who wants to share with a baby?” says Kate.

“I tried to get cots, but if not, we just shared a bed. The only thing I wanted – which I wouldn’t have cared about had I gone on my own – was air-con, because it was so hot.”

Other beds for the night included local hotels or Airbnbs. With overnight trains an option, Kate and Auden tried that too. “Our longest train ride was seven hours. After that, I swore we’d never do more than four hours at a time,” Kate admits.

All aboard! Kate and Auden wait for their next ride (Kate Ivory)

“She didn’t love it, I didn’t love it. Was it worth the stress to catch an overnight train? “We were going to go directly from Munich to Ljubliana, but I changed the plan to stop in Salzburg to break up the journey, and it ended up being one of the best bits of the trip,” she says.

Along with Austria, Kate’s highlights included hiking up an Alpine mountain with Auden, taking in the view from her baby sling. “I wanted to take my proper hiking backpack, but I just couldn’t carry it along with the pram. We had one backpack between us that could fit under the pram, another little bag for her stuff, and that’s it, because I needed to be able to fold the pram up.”

Kate and Audnen in Venice (Kate Ivory)

Anyone who has holidayed with kids in tow knows that travelling light isn’t an option. Kate stripped her travel wardrobe right back to the basics. As for Auden, “It was 80 per cent her stuff. I vacuum-packed everything down into our backpack.” She bought essentials like nappies and wipes as they went, cleverly buying a pack after a long leg so she wasn’t weighed down by carrying a huge supply.

For food and activities like museum entries, Kate stuck to a bootstrap budget of €20 a day, in addition to accommodation, which was about €60 a night. It helped that her Interrail pass had been pre-purchased.

Kate’s recommended baby essentials

I’ve got this UV blanket that has magnets on it, so Auden couldn’t get sunburnt. I’d wrap her up like a burrito in it.

The Bugaboo pram was amazing, because you can put everything on it and clip things to it. I was umming and erring about getting it, but the strain I put on it saw us through the trip.

The Rockit because it rocks the pram by itself and helps Auden sleep. And a little bag of toys so she could play. She doesn’t need much at six months.

“I was strict, but anything that didn’t get spent would roll over to the next day’s budget, so there were funds to play with”. With Auden still breastfeeding, Kate would give her small snacks to try from farmers’ markets.

“If you ask, in Italy they’ll sometimes do a baby aperitivo; a plate of things she could eat – breadsticks, small bits of melon, things like that,” explains Kate.

It all sounds very Eat, Pray, Love: the baby edition. Surely it can’t have all been plain sailing? “There were a couple of times in Slovenia, where the trains kept getting like cancelled or switched to buses” Kate recalls.

“Then you’re trying to get on the rail replacement, put your pram down, get your backpack in. It was stressful, but I enjoyed us getting through the gnarly bits together,” she adds. “In the future, when Auden doubts herself, I’ll remind her we went around Europe when she was six months, so she can do anything. This trip is now part of the fabric of us.”

“I could have gone for another couple of weeks. I just ran out of money. And pants.”

The Slovenian episode also had a silver lining: a new friend. “We met Elenka, 82, on a train leaving Salzburg, and ended up spending the day travelling to Ljubljana together. When we had to switch to replacement buses, this 82-year-old charged off with Auden to hold our seats, throwing her suitcase out of the window for me to stow away with the pram, yelling in broken English as she went”.

When they eventually arrived in the city, Elenka walked Kate and Auden to their hostel, and they swapped numbers. Later, Kate found out Elenka had booked her dinner in Ljubljana — and had already picked up the bill.

They probably wouldn’t have crossed paths if it weren’t for the baby. “She’s 82, so what do we have in common?” Kate agrees. “But that’s the magic of travel”.

Other friends included an Irish couple in Trieste who were in town for a James Joyce convention, one of Kate’s favourite poets. “They invited us along, so we ended up joining a James Joyce festival for the day,” Kate laughs.

(Kate Ivory)

“I just don’t want her to be scared of the world”, Kate explains, bouncing Auden in her lap. “When we were in Strasburg, a fire engine screamed past, and she, naturally, burst into tears. But later on, a loud helicopter went past and she looked up at me for reassurance and then smiled.

“She’s learning that things aren’t scary just because they’re loud. I’ll always have her back. As my friend Leah said, ‘Isn’t it nice that she wakes up in a new place and sees all these new things, but then she looks at you, and she knows she’s home?’”

Of the trip, Kate says “It was the best thing I’ve ever done in my life. I’ve travelled to so many places, with work, and in life. There’s something so magical about doing it with Auden. I’m seeing it through her eyes.”

“Honestly, I could have gone for another couple of weeks. I just ran out of money. And pants.”



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Affluent Travelers Are Sticking Closer to Home, but Still Crave Bucket List Experiences

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A new travel trends report for luxury specialist Kensington has revealed some unexpected developments in consumer behavior among affluent travelers.

Kensington, which underwent a rebrand this past November, released its annual trends report in December. That initial report found that luxury travel remained resilient and experience-driven, and identified trends such as a resurgence of solo travel.

The latest research from Kensington demonstrates how quickly luxury travel motivations evolve. Titled Navigating Uncertainty in Affluent Travel, Kensington’s 2025 mid-year travel trends report, provides a snapshot of the luxury travel sector, relying on information from booking patterns, proprietary data, and an updated Affluent Traveler Survey, which was conducted in partnership with Dig Insights in June 2025.

Kensington identified three major trends in the survey results: that Americans are traveling closer to home, that affluent travlers still want “once-in-a-lifetime” experiences, and that demand for Africa is growing—and it’s not just for game safaris.

“We’re in a moment where global unpredictability is testing assumptions across the industry,” said Matt Cammaert, senior vice president of marketing and outside sales. “And yet, the data tells a story of travelers who are adapting, not retreating. These shifts aren’t just reactive; they’re purposeful. Whether it’s staying closer to home or seeking out deeper experiences abroad, today’s traveler is making intentional choices.”

Increase in Domestic Travel

Geopolitical concerns and a weakening U.S. dollar have led to an increased interest in North America travel this summer. Roughly half of affluent travelers surveyed stated that they haven’t changed their travel habits; however, Kensington’s internal data tells a different story: U.S.-based trips are up 60% year-over-year, and shorter-duration itineraries now account for more than 9% of 2025 bookings.

“It’s not just about proximity, but about control,” added Cammaert. “The domestic segment is growing because it meets today’s traveler where they are. They want high-end, high-touch experiences, but they also want to reduce friction.” 

Bookings for the Ultra-Luxe Segment Are Up

Despite ongoing global uncertainties, luxury travelers remain focused on securing unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Bookings in the ultra-luxe category ($2,000 to $3,000+ per person, per day) are up 47%, with strong demand for private yachts, luxury villas, and VIP access to exclusive events.

According to Kensington’s survey, 56% of affluent travelers plan to increase their leisure travel spending this year, while 36% say they’re allocating more specifically for VIP-style experiences. Bookings in the highest tier, $,3000+ per person per day increased by 63.8%. Kensington Yachts also saw a 94% year-over-year growth in yacht charter sales.

“The needs of high-net-worth travelers aren’t typically impacted by the short-term economic changes that affect other parts of the market,” said Edita Sgovio, vice president Kensington Yachts & Expeditions. “Their expectations are high, and they want experiences they can tell stories about – even boast about. They want to make lasting memories and will be loyal to travel brands that deliver on those high expectations.”

Shifts in Africa Luxury Travel

Africa’s allure continues to grow—though the nature of that interest is beginning to evolve. While classic game drives remain a major draw, affluent American travelers are increasingly seeking a broader, more immersive experience of the continent’s landscapes, history, and cultures.

Safaris still represent a key growth engine, with Kensington reporting a 54% year-over-year increase in African safari bookings during Q1 of 2025. The surge is particularly strong in emerging destinations like Zimbabwe (up 75%), Zambia (up a staggering 397%), and East African staples like Kenya and Tanzania (up 43%). Even South Africa—long a safari mainstay—has seen a 71% bump over 2024.

But the shift lies in what travelers want beyond the Big Five. According to Kensington’s Affluent Traveler Survey, high-net-worth clients are showing growing interest in cultural and historical explorations: guided tours of historic cities, immersive visits to local villages, and wildlife experiences that go beyond the traditional safari. This new wave of demand reflects a deeper curiosity about Africa’s rich diversity—both human and ecological. 





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Safaris aren’t just for newlyweds and families. Here’s what it’s like to go alone

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Safaris are a bit like grown-up summer camps and the number of solo travellers has been steadily, if quietly, growing.Supplied

“You’re here by yourself?” The taxi driver sounded surprised. Or, perhaps, simply unused to ferrying lone, middle-aged women to Tanzania’s Kilimanjaro International Airport, where I planned to hop a propeller plane to a dirt airstrip in the middle of the country’s vast savannah.

I’m married (happily); I have friends (I swear). Yet going on safari alone intrigued me, because even as solo travel has soared in popularity, safaris retain their reputation as the realm of families and honeymooners. I wondered what it would be like to experience one of the world’s wildest places by myself – and had recently learned that the number of solo safari-goers has been steadily, if quietly, growing.

“It’s definitely a trend we’re seeing,” said Monique Langue, a safari expert with go2Africa from Cape Town, South Africa. In 2024, around 13 per cent of the company’s travellers were on their own, an 8-per-cent increase from the previous year. The trips aren’t just for loners, Langue said. “You can be a solo traveller, join a small group and meet some new people,” she said. “But for others, travelling alone is really about that experience of a solo trip.”

I was invited to discover two of Africa’s top safari camps in both price and guest experience – and so planned a two-part solo trip encompassing both sides of the wildlife-rich Mara–Serengeti ecosystem that spans the border between Kenya and Tanzania. First, a stay at Singita Grumeti in Tanzania’s 350,000-acre Grumeti Game Reserve. Next, I’d fly to Maasai Mara National Reserve, in Kenya, where I’d be sleeping in one of the well-appointed, canvas-sided tents at andBeyond Bateleur Camp.

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The suite at the Singita Faru Faru lodge overlooks the roiling Grumeti River.Supplied

“What do you most want to see? What we do is totally up to you,” said Grumeti safari guide David Mnazi, when my plane touched down at the reserve’s private airstrip. If solo trips can occasionally leave travellers feeling at loose ends, I quickly found that, with their activity-packed schedules, safaris are a bit like grown-up summer camp.

During my stay at Grumeti, Mnazi would be my guide for twice-daily game drives, designed to catch the morning and evening hours when animals are most active. Within minutes of leaving the airstrip, we’d seen the lilac-breasted roller – a flamboyantly coloured bird – followed by warthogs snacking on grass in a gossipy knot. I relished the flexibility that the solo drives gave me. At times, I chose low-key birdwatching feet from the lodge; another day, we decided to cross the reserve in pursuit of a pride of lions, who we found drowsing in the thorny crowns of acacia trees.

In the heat of the day, I retreated to the Singita Faru Faru lodge, where my suite overlooked the roiling Grumeti River. I savoured the long afternoons: my netting-swathed bed hinted at indulgent naps, while a watercolour painting set invited creative interludes. The minibar bar was stocked with chilled South African chenin blanc. Tucked in the corner was a cork yoga mat that I pulled out each day, spreading it on my veranda and following the step-by-step mindfulness meditation instructions set thoughtfully alongside.

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In 2024, around 13 per cent of safari company Go2Africa’s travellers were on their own, an 8 per cent increase from the previous year.andBeyond Bateleur

Many solo safari trips, like mine, come with hefty single supplement fees that may explain the relative rarity of going it alone. That may be changing. At Singita, where a week-long safari costs as much as a compact car, lone travellers aren’t charged more. Meanwhile, andBeyond waives their 50 per cent single supplement fee during two low seasons, from mid-January through April plus November through late December.

“Camps and lodges are starting to see the value in being a little more flexible when it comes to solo travellers,” Langue said. It takes some looking, she acknowledged, but noted that going in the rainy season, as I did, makes such deals easier to find. In quiet periods, she’s had success negotiating down single supplements even when they’re listed in the official rates. Flights are more affordable in the low season, too. Visitors to remote lodges might even find themselves alone on the plane, as I did on an early morning flight to the second game reserve on my safari itinerary.

“Welcome to your private plane,” said the co-pilot, from the open cockpit of the twin-engine propeller AirKenya flight from Nairobi’s Wilson Airport. “Next stop, Maasai Mara National Reserve.” A veteran andBeyond guide, Wilson Omari, greeted me on the ground with a flute of Champagne, and promptly steered me past a herd of surly-faced buffalo.

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Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve as seen from andBeyond’s Bateleur Camp.andBeyond Bateleur

Our first official game drive wouldn’t begin until later that day, when we’d go out in search of the black rhino who’d recently been spotted with her young calf. (When we found them, looking placid and alien at the forest’s edge, I squealed in undignified delight but with no other guests nearby to laugh, who cares?).

Until then, I’d luxuriate in a tent that stretched the meaning of the word to its breaking point. At its centre was a plush, leather-trimmed bed with room for a crowd. Its gin bar, cut-glass sherry decanter and vast copper bathtub seemed especially decadent when paired with views of giraffes wandering nearby grassland – explorer-inspired romance upholstered with cheekily Victorian creature comforts.

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andBeyond supports a rewilding project with a tree nursery that provides seedlings to the surrounding villages.Supplied

One morning, I skipped my game drive to join Simon Saitoti, andBeyond’s community and impact officer, for a hike through nearby Nyekweri forest, which provides critical habitat for animals, including the endangered giant pangolin, but has faced rapid deforestation.

Saitoti, a Maasai elder, helps oversee the andBeyond-supported rewilding project currently restoring it, with a tree nursery providing seedlings to the surrounding villages. As we searched for pangolin tracks amid shady groves of wild olives and black ironwood trees, he explained that the forest has exceptional environmental significance, but also a cultural one.

“This is where young Maasai men become warriors,” he said. “When I was a young man, I spent a month in this forest, with no clothes, eating nothing but beef and herbs . . . men from the village came to me, and spoke words to change my heart and make me brave.” Such traditions depended on the forest’s ongoing existence – Saitoti saw his people’s future entwined with that of the ecosystem he was working to protect.

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Many solo safari trips feature a hefty single supplement fee, but that may be changing.Supplied

On my last game drive at the camp, I was joined by newlyweds Maddie and Sachin Verma – beatific and just a week past their vows.

Together, we watched a family of elephants clustering around a tiny calf, and sipped cocktails on a bluff high above the Maasai Mara at sunset.

“Would you like to join us for dinner?” Sachin asked, graciously, when we returned to camp. “No thanks,” I replied. “It’s my last night, and I think I’d like to eat alone.”

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The Singita Faru Faru Lodge boasts a minibar stocked with chilled South African chenin blanc and even a cork yoga mat.Supplied

If you go

All-inclusive safaris at Singita Grumeti Faru Faru start $2,963 a person per night, includes meals, accommodation, two daily game drives, transfers to the airstrip and excellent service. For more, visit singita.com

All-inclusive stays in luxury tents at andBeyond Bateleur camp start at $1,687 per person per night, single supplement waived during low season. Includes meals, accommodation, safari activities, laundry, airport transfers. For more, visit singita.com or andbeyond.com.

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Lone travellers aren’t charged more at Singita, while andBeyond waives their 50 per cent single supplement fee during two low seasons, from mid-January through April plus November through late December.Supplied

Special to The Globe and Mail

The writer was a guest of Singita Grumeti and andBeyond Bateleur Camp. They did not review or approve the story before publication.



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Where tourists seldom tread, part 18: three seaside towns that defy the tides of fashion | United Kingdom holidays

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Tis the season to be beside the seaside – and to hype and critique coastal towns in surveys and rankings. I suppose lists of this year’s “in” and “out” resorts help tourists decide where to go; no point going to Skegness for Michelin-starred food, or to Salcombe for a laugh and cheap beer. Less obvious coastal towns provide more nuanced fare. Perhaps the most alluring spots are those where we don’t forget the sea. These three towns are routinely ranked last resorts or else ignored altogether, but they offer more than stuff to eat, drink, buy and post on socials – and are close to swimmable beaches.

Ayr, Ayrshire

A view of the Isle of Arran from Ayr. Photograph: Allan Wright/Alamy

A century ago, Clyde steamers and the Glasgow and South Western Railway took thousands of sunseekers from inland towns to the Ayrshire coast. They came to escape the smoke and noise of industry, breathe in the briny air, and admire the Isle of Arran and tiny Ailsa Craig – from afar or up close on an excursion. The bed and breakfasts on elegant Park Circus (a sweeping crescent lined with cherry trees that blossom red on one side and white on the other) and the Georgian villas on Eglinton Terrace evoke something of the golden days of yore.

It’s easy to imagine parasol-sporting ladies and tall-hatted gents strolling across the Low Green, a large field between the town centre and the beach. This open space – perfect for picnics, kite-flying and impromptu games – and the absence of any clutter on the prom make the seafront unusually peaceful. It’s as if Ayr has refused to become a traditional resort. No tat, no tack, not many tourists. There are places to play on swings and get an ice-cream or a pint, but lovers of amusement arcades and bucket-and-spade shops should probably stay away. On the short block beside the Low Green the buildings are mainly residential – including care homes, that standard fixture of coastal towns.

The beach is a golden sweep about two miles in length, with the old harbour at the north end. Wharves and quays once bustled all along the River Ayr. By the 14th century, this was Scotland’s principal west coast port. In the 18th century, more than 300 ships were moored every year, unloading American tobacco, French wine, Spanish salt, English earthenware and slate from Easdale in the Firth of Lorn. Walk south and you come to the ruins of Greenan Castle, a 16th-century clifftop tower. The sunsets over Arran are life-enhancing. I watched a woman of retirement age do her tai chi moves while keeping her eyes fixed on the island – spiritually separate from the dog-walkers and prom-striders.

The Tam o’ Shanter Inn is one of the pubs that claims to be Ayr’s oldest. Photograph: Andy Arthur/Alamy

Robert Burns was born near Ayr and baptised in the Auld Kirk. In Tam o’ Shanter he writes: “Auld Ayr, wham ne’er a town surpasses, / For honest men and bonny lasses”. A lively pub on the high street, which is set back a good mile from the beach, is named after the poem; it claims to be the oldest in Ayr, but so does the Black Bull on the opposite side of the river. The old bridge (or Auld Brig, if you prefer, which inspired another Burns poem) that takes you across is pedestrianised and a beauty. All the old pubs are enticing but I had my most enjoyable, peaceful beer and dram in the Twa Dugs – also named for a Burns poem. In Ayr’s Waterstones, I found a long-overlooked 1969 Booker-nominated novel by Gordon M Williams, From Scenes Like These, that provided a brutally realistic riposte to Burns-esque takes on rural Scotland. I read it in the boozers, the caffs, on benches.

People in Ayr will tell you the town has declined. They’ll tell you that in nine out of 10 seaside resorts. But this column gets me around, and I can vouch for the town’s general busyness and good looks. Sedate, somewhat stern, bereft of traditional fun stuff, it’s an ideal hideaway for those who want to do beach walks, read or write, and check into small, friendly guest houses.
Things to see and do: Rozelle House Museum, Robert Burns Birthplace Museum, Culzean Castle and Country Park

Bangor, Gwynedd

A quiet corner of Bangor. Photograph: Howard Litherland/Alamy

Bangor, the oldest city in Wales, came second from bottom in the Which? 2025 rankings and absolute bottom in 2024. Perhaps the latter partly anticipated the former. Casually saddle a place with derision and it takes a great effort to shake it off.

As the gateway to the island of Ynys Môn (Anglesey), a university town and former royal capital, Bangor doesn’t need star ratings or hip amenities. The city’s origins stretch back to the founding of a monastery in the early sixth century. A cathedral was later built on the site. For centuries, Bangor was the spiritual and ecclesiastical hub for Gwynedd – a kingdom until the English came a-conquering – but remained a small settlement. Nonetheless, during the first flush of Welsh tourism, at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, pleasure steamers from Liverpool brought visitors to see the big church and the wild waters of the Menai Strait.

The boom years came after 1826 with the completion of the Holyhead Road, linking London with Dublin – hitched to the recently created UK by the 1800 Acts of Union. The first major civilian state-funded road building project in Britain since the Roman era, the job was given to Thomas Telford. The road (much of it on the same route as today’s A5) swept through central Bangor, making the former big village a major staging post, and creating the longest high street in Wales. To replace the ferry-shuttles, Telford’s magnificent Menai Suspension Bridge opened in 1826. Two decades later, Robert Stephenson built a tubular bridge to carry the Chester-Holyhead railway across the straits. With communications much improved, Bangor became a proper little port, with shipbuilding, sail making, iron founding, smithing and timber yards, as well as slate yards.

The magnificent Menai Suspension Bridge. Photograph: Slawek Staszczuk/Alamy

Walk to the natural end of this high street – which turns residential – and you come to the shore, a pier and a large park between neo-Norman Penrhyn Castle and the sea. You don’t have an in-town beach, which might be why some of the raters have a low opinion of Bangor. But the Wales Coast Path and the railway line link Bangor with beaches at Llanfairfechan and Penmaenmawr, eight and 10 miles away respectively. In fact, this might be the best-connected seaside town in the UK, with Eryri national park (Snowdonia), Unesco-listed Caernarfon Castle and Criccieth and the Llŷn peninsula accessible by bus, and of course Anglesey on the doorstep.
Things to see and do: walk the Menai Suspension Bridge, kayaking off Caernarfon, Aber Falls Distillery

Millom, Cumbria

Millom, Cumbria, with Black Combe behind. Photograph: Jon Sparks/Alamy

The Cumbrian coast is the most intriguing stretch of littoral in these islands. Backed by the towering, cloud-drawing fells of the national park, the shore is often beneath a blue dome. The towns along it are chapters in British social history. Whitehaven is like a Devon port town without the crowds. Workington is a fascinating ex-industrial town. Nethertown is a hidden hamlet in a spectacular setting.

Millom, at the southern tip of the old county of Cumberland, is a stop on the coast-hugging railway line – a superlative train ride – between Barrow-in-Furness and Sellafield. Its main connection to the nexuses of nuclear war and power are the Millomites who commute south and north for work. Millom once had industry; hematite ore (iron oxide) was found at Hodbarrow in 1856 and mined till 1968, the population swelling to 10,000. Much of the land was transformed into an RSPB nature reserve, centred on the north-west’s largest coastal lagoon; little, common and sandwich terns breed on the islands and you can see ringed plovers, redshanks, great crested grebes and oystercatchers around the wetlands.

Millom is tiny, but has none of the jams and crowds of the villages in the nearby Lakes. The Camra-rated Bear on the Square has real ales, good food and live music. The town has its own fell – Black Combe – and while only a 600-metre Marilyn, its isolation and proximity to the sea make it feel higher. The views from the summit are magnificent – with Blackpool Tower and Scafell Pike visible in clear weather.

The poet Norman Nicholson (1914-1987) was born in Millom and spent almost all his life here, shunning metropolitan literary circles and asserting that the much-maligned “provincial” has more in common with people of other times and lands and consequently “may be all the more aware of that which is enduring in life and society”. The titles of his books reflect the locale: Rock Face (1948); The Shadow of Black Combe (1978); Sea to the West (1981). St George’s church has a stained-glass window designed by Christine Boyce that was inspired by Nicholson’s writing. His house is being restored, while Millom as a whole is undergoing a major rebuild with heritage and health projects afoot as well as a 7.5-mile walking and cycling trail.

For a swim, head to Silecroft by train (one stop) or on foot (3.5 miles); Haverigg beach, though closer, often has pollution warnings.
Things to see and do: Millom Heritage and Arts Centre, Swinside Stone Circle

Further information: Visit Scotland, Visit Cumbria and Visit Wales



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