First impressions

An ever-changing cast of well-heeled foreigners — some toting bags from fashion brands galore, others furtively issuing orders via mobile phones to unseen assistants — seems to play background characters in front of the 1899 former telephone exchange that has recently been transformed into the Sax. If you can tear your surreptitious gaze away from their antics, you might spot the golden dome of Les Invalides down one of the wide boulevards radiating from the hotel, and the spire of the Eiffel Tower in another direction down a leafy street.

Sharply dressed doormen do their best to match the right parties to the right Mercedes sedans, or to help the latest arrival wheel massive pieces of luggage that hark back to the monthslong ocean voyages of yore into the relatively diminutive reception area.

One of the check-in agents will surely compliment your high-school French as you complete the check-in formalities, then they will hop out from behind the standing desk to personally escort you to your chamber, pointing out the alfresco The Garden restaurant (and plunge pool) through the back door, or the sultry, chandelier-filled The Galerie lounge along the way before leading you under a ceiling mural by street artist Sto on the way to the elevators.

Rather than one of the city’s grande dame hotels, this feels more like a well-to-do residential building that you just happen to be calling home during your visit to Paris.

The rooms

For a hotel with so few rooms, the Sax Paris actually has a preponderance of room categories — I counted 18 on the booking page — which can make it hard to suss out exactly what you’re getting. However, there are just king and queen rooms in the starting Sax category, and these are the ones available for the fewest points, so that is likely what most guests will end up trying to book.

Dining

The hotel has several dining and drinking establishments.

Those looking for a swinging scene should head straight to Kinugawa, a Japanese fusion restaurant with other outposts in Dubai, Morocco and St. Barts, among others, on the top floor, where a raft of hosts and hostesses stand ready to escort you to your table. Those around the central bar and the omakase counter are the liveliest, but the ones with Eiffel Tower views are the most coveted. All have plush pink velvet chairs and banquettes, though, with a potted palm or two thrown in for good measure.

There are tables outside on a small deck as well as one floor up via a spiral staircase (though this area was not yet ready for guests). Just a heads-up that this tends to be where the smokers congregate, so your panoramic view might come with wafts of smoke.

The menu is pricey, even by Parisian standards, with standout dishes like crispy rice with salmon, snow crab and avocado ($35); katsu duck cress salad ($30.50); a wagyu burger with yuzu kosho aioli ($47); and a variety of sushi rolls and sashimi, including ultrafresh spicy tuna ($25) and individual pieces of sweet crab ($8).

Kinugawa is also where breakfast is served from 7-10:30 a.m. daily. It was included as part of my Hilton Diamond benefits and featured an extensive buffet of pastries, fruit, cold cuts, juices and even Taittinger Champagne, plus a selection of a la carte dishes like avocado toast, brioche French toast and eggs made to order.

Guests looking for something more continental can sample the same menu whether dining in the lobby-adjacent all-day dining venue, Sax, or the tranquil courtyard restaurant, The Garden, which is also where you’ll find a small plunge pool, a Jacuzzi and a handful of loungers.

Among the signatures on offer are lobster gyoza ($27), mini grilled cheese ($20), a jamon de bellota platter ($40), Caesar salad ($35) and a club sandwich ($38), plus specialty cocktails like the heady Mr. Burns with Glasgow Blend whisky, Planteray O.F.T.D. rum, buckwheat tincture and Martini Rubino vermouth ($22).

With trellises, trees, tiled floors and umbrella-shaded tables, as well as a dramatic mirrored sculpture titled Rockstone, by artist Arik Levy, The Garden feels like a St. Tropez beach club transported to the city, while Sax is more luxe, with velvet chairs, crystal chandeliers and a black-and-white reproduction of Delacroix’s “Liberty Leading the People” on the ceiling.

Though not completely open while we were there, The Galerie is a sultry space opposite Sax with red velvet banquettes and slipper chairs, mirrored walls and ceilings, and fanciful Baccarat crystal chandeliers, all tinted red by the street-facing windows.

Amenities and service

• Two floors underground, the small fitness center has the latest Technogym fitness and cardio equipment and men’s and women’s locker rooms with steam rooms and saunas.
• The spa offers various massages and facials ranging from 45-90 minutes, and advance reservations are suggested.
• There is a small pool and Jacuzzi in The Garden, but lounge chairs are in limited supply.
• Staff members throughout the hotel could not have been friendlier, transitioning between French and English depending on what guests preferred, and ready to lend a hand with everything from luggage to directions.

Location and logistics

The Sax Paris, LXR Hotels & Resorts is on Avenue de Saxe in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. The surrounding area is a relatively quiet, upscale, residential area of the city, though the hotel is only a short walk to tourist-thronged spots like the Eiffel Tower and Les Invalides. There are plenty of Metro and bus stops nearby, so getting around the city via public transport is a breeze.

It’s relatively quick and inexpensive to get to the hotel from Paris-Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG) via the RER B and Metro 10 line ($15) or a $50-$80 ride using Uber or Bolt, depending on the time of day and the type of car you prefer.

What it costs

Accessibility

The hotel’s public areas, including the lobby and restaurants, are accessible with wheelchairs, though the use of elevators is required in some cases, and these are on the small side.

The hotel has wheelchair-accessible rooms in the King Sax and King Prestige categories that have features such as more floorspace for easier wheelchair navigation, roll-in showers and toilet grab bars. As always, call the hotel directly to ensure you can book an accommodation that meets your specific needs.

Bottom line

Removed — but not far — from the Left Bank’s busiest tourist attractions in the sophisticated 7th arrondissement, Sax Paris, LXR Hotels & Resorts provides the refined backdrop for a relaxed stay in the French capital. It’s a welcome alternative to the city’s sometimes over-the-top luxury hotels. What’s more, it is readily bookable using Hilton Honors points, albeit at sky-high rates. Still, if you have the points to spare, they can save you quite a bundle on a Parisian getaway and open up a sometimes overlooked corner of the city for your exploration.

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