Published August 6, 2025 03:00AM
Destinations & Things To Do
Japanese travelers losing interest in Kyoto, top sightseeing spots slip behind Nara at peak season

Kyoto may be the historical heart of traditional Japanese culture, but current conditions are making it a less attractive placer for locals to visit.
Aside from maybe Tokyo, there’s no other city with more of a “must-visit” reputation than Kyoto for travelers to Japan, who flock to the country’s former capital to tour its historic temples, beautiful gardens, and otherwise get a glimpse of Japanese traditional culture. For a growing number of Japanese travelers vacationing in their home country, however, Kyoto is becoming a city they feel like they can leave off their itinerary.
Tokyo-based data/research organization Blogwatcher recently released the results of its analysis of travel patterns during Japan’s 2025 Golden Week holiday season, which straddled the end of April and beginning of May. Examining mobile phone location data, Blogwatcher determined that there were significant drop-offs in the number of Japanese visitors to five of Kyoto’s most famous sightseeing spots compared to just two years prior. Japanese visitors to Fushimi Inari Shrine plummeted by 40.4 percent compared to 2023, and both Kiyomizudera Temple and Kinkakuij/the Golden Pavillion’s numbers of Japanese visitors fell by roughly 25 percent. Shimogamo Shrine and Byodoiin Temple both had slight upticks in Japanese visitors in 2024, but reversed course in 2025 and had approximately 10 percent fewer domestic visitors than they’d had at Golden Week in 2023.
▼ Byodoin’s Phoenix Hall is so famous that it’s even depicted on the 10-yen coin.
It’s not hard to imagine what’s discouraging Japanese travelers from visiting Kyoto. The weak yen continues to make Japan more affordable for foreign travelers to visit than it’s been in a generation, and with so many of them including Kyoto in their Japan travel plans, the city’s attractions are crowded and its hotels expensive. The Kyoto Tourism Association’s data shows that through the first five months of this year, the average price per night for a stay in a Kyoto hotel is around 50 percent more than it was just two years ago. Those cost increases are relatively easy for inbound foreign visitors to soak up as they leverage the favorable exchange rate, but for Japanese travelers, who are already getting hit in the wallet by rapidly increasing consumer prices without equivalent wage increases, the idea of paying inflated prices to go someplace clogged with tourists is no doubt feeling like a less enjoyable way to spend their diminished disposable income.
However, as Kyoto is looking like a less attractive destination for Japanese travelers, they’re becoming more drawn to Nara. Blogwatcher tracks domestic visitor numbers for 33 of Kyoto Prefecture’s top temples, shrines, and historical tourism sites, and 37 in Nara Prefecture. During Golden Week in 2023, Japanese travelers showed an overwhelming preference for Kyoto, with its top sights receiving nearly 70 percent more Japanese visitors than Nara’s. In 2025, though, more Japanese travelers visited Nara’s major sights than Kyoto’s.
Japanese visitors to major temples, shrine, and historic sites during Golden Week
● Kyoto 2023: 746,000
● Nara 2023: 446,00● Kyoto 2025: 559,000
● Nara 2025: 561,00
It could be argued that Japan is still in the middle of the initial wave of its inbound tourism boom. Residual pent-up international travel demand and the weak yen are doing a lot to make the country a trendy and affordable choice for visitors from abroad, but it’s still not entirely clear whether their intense interest is going to be permanent. As a result, it’s likewise too early to say whether huge crowds and high prices have turned Japanese people off to the idea of traveling to Kyoto entirely, or if they’re simply putting their Kyoto plans on the back burner for the time being. After all, if the shrines and temples you’re going to see are already centuries old, holding back for a year or two to see if the tourism congestion has settled down doesn’t seem like all that long of a wait. For the time being, though, it really does look like Japan’s travelers aren’t nearly as excited about the idea of visiting Kyoto as they were just a short while ago.
Source: TBS Cross Dig with Bloomberg via Golden Times
Top image: Pakutaso
Insert image: Pakutaso
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Destinations & Things To Do
Bangkok Soars To Top Five Global Tourist Destinations For Summer 2025, Driven By Visitors From China, Malaysia, India, Russia, And South Korea

Wednesday, August 6, 2025
Bangkok has firmly secured its place among the top five global tourist destinations for the summer of 2025, marking a significant achievement for Thailand’s capital. This surge in popularity can be attributed to a substantial increase in visitors from key countries such as China, Malaysia, India, Russia, and South Korea. The city’s unique blend of cultural heritage, vibrant nightlife, and world-class hospitality has captivated tourists, making it a must-visit destination for international travelers.
Bangkok’s Rising Popularity: Securing a Spot Among the Top Global Tourist Destinations in 2025
Bangkok, Thailand’s vibrant capital, has once again proven its allure on the global tourism stage, securing a spot among the top five most popular tourist destinations for the summer of 2025. This milestone underscores the city’s enduring charm and its appeal to international travelers. As of August 5, 2025, Bangkok has already welcomed over 20.25 million visitors, reflecting a booming tourism sector that continues to thrive despite global uncertainties.
A Testament to Enduring Appeal
On August 6, 2025, Ms. Sasikarn Wattanachan, Deputy Spokesperson for the Prime Minister’s Office, revealed the findings of Booking.com’s Summer 2025 tourism trend survey, placing Bangkok firmly among the world’s top tourist spots. According to the survey, the city ranks high on the list of global travel destinations, a testament to its unique appeal and the continued interest in what the Thai capital has to offer.
This achievement was made possible through Booking.com’s comprehensive data analytics, which monitors millions of searches and bookings made by travelers worldwide. Despite the unpredictable global economic climate, the demand for travel has remained resilient, with tourists showing a preference for exploring new, enriching experiences. One of the key trends for 2025 is the growing importance of sustainable tourism, with many travelers prioritizing eco-friendly accommodations and experiences that promote environmental conservation.
Ranking Among the Elite Destinations
The top five most popular tourist destinations for summer 2025, as revealed by Booking.com, include Hurghada (Egypt), Sharm El Sheikh (Egypt), Tokyo (Japan), Dubai (UAE), and Bangkok (Thailand). These cities are known for their rich cultural histories, breathtaking attractions, and unique travel experiences. Bangkok, in particular, stands out as a prime example of a destination that blends the old with the new—offering visitors a rich mix of tradition, modernity, and vibrancy.
While regional tensions, such as those along the Thai-Cambodian border, may have raised concerns, Bangkok continues to thrive as a beacon of tourism, drawing travelers from both neighboring nations and far-flung corners of the world. The city’s reputation as a hub of culture, history, and entertainment remains steadfast.
Why Bangkok Continues to Captivate Travelers
There is no denying that Bangkok’s popularity is rooted in a variety of factors. The city offers a diverse range of experiences, from the mesmerizing temples of Wat Pho and the Grand Palace to the bustling markets and modern shopping malls like Siam Paragon and MBK. Visitors are also drawn to the city’s world-renowned cuisine, including the iconic street food, which provides an unparalleled taste of authentic Thai flavors.
In addition to its culinary offerings, Bangkok’s distinctive lifestyle and high-energy atmosphere make it a favorite among modern travelers. The city seamlessly blends traditional Thai culture with cutting-edge developments, offering both visitors and locals a dynamic environment. Moreover, Bangkok’s accessibility from various parts of Asia and beyond, along with its extensive transportation network, further solidifies its standing as a global tourism hotspot.
Beyond the city’s borders, Bangkok is also an ideal gateway to explore the wider wonders of Thailand. Whether travelers are seeking tranquil beaches in the southern provinces, historical sites in Chiang Mai, or adventurous activities in Krabi, Bangkok serves as a perfect launchpad for a variety of experiences.
Thailand’s Overall Tourism Surge
The country as a whole has also seen remarkable growth in international arrivals. As of August 4, 2025, Thailand has welcomed over 19.5 million international visitors since the beginning of the year. The top five countries contributing the most tourists to Thailand are China (2.73 million), Malaysia (2.70 million), India (1.39 million), Russia (1.12 million), and South Korea (918,000). The steady influx of tourists from these countries highlights Thailand’s diverse international appeal.
Despite challenges such as global health concerns, economic shifts, and regional geopolitical tensions, Thailand’s tourism industry has proven resilient. The country’s unique offerings, from its beautiful landscapes to its rich cultural heritage, continue to captivate travelers across the globe. Moreover, the Thai government’s focus on sustainable tourism and improved infrastructure has played a significant role in keeping the industry competitive.
Sustainable Tourism: A Growing Trend
As the tourism sector continues to evolve, the emphasis on sustainability has become a key factor in attracting tourists. Travelers in 2025 are increasingly mindful of their environmental footprint, seeking destinations that prioritize eco-friendly practices. Bangkok, with its ongoing efforts to promote sustainable tourism, including the use of green hotels, eco-tours, and initiatives to preserve local culture, is well-positioned to meet this demand.
The city’s commitment to sustainability is reflected in the growing number of green-certified hotels, the promotion of cycling tours, and the emphasis on preserving its natural surroundings, including the famous Chao Phraya River. The combination of sustainability and the city’s already impressive range of attractions makes Bangkok an even more attractive option for conscientious travelers.
Looking Ahead
As Bangkok continues to cement its place as one of the world’s top tourist destinations, its future looks promising. The city’s efforts to blend tradition with modernity, its rich cultural heritage, and its dedication to sustainable tourism are all key factors that will keep it at the forefront of global travel trends. With millions of visitors flocking to Bangkok every year, the city is well on its way to maintaining its status as a must-visit destination for travelers seeking both adventure and meaningful experiences.
Bangkok has climbed into the top five global tourist destinations for the summer of 2025, fueled by a surge in visitors from China, Malaysia, India, Russia, and South Korea. The city’s rich cultural offerings, lively atmosphere, and excellent hospitality have made it a top choice for international travelers.
In conclusion, Bangkok’s rise to the top ranks of the world’s most popular tourist destinations for 2025 speaks volumes about its enduring charm and the city’s ability to adapt to the changing demands of the modern traveler. From its vibrant street markets to its cultural landmarks and eco-conscious initiatives, Bangkok offers a unique blend of experiences that make it an unmissable destination on any travel itinerary.
Destinations & Things To Do
Gen Z Just Figured Out What Boomers Already Knew—Cottage Cheese Slaps

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The white, clumpy curd was all the rage in the early 20th century, but it has recently made a comeback. Young people are putting it in everything from dips and pastries to ice cream. While once pushed as a meat alternative during the First World War, its current craze seems to be rooted in Zoomers’ quest to achieve #fitlife. So, what makes cottage cheese the protein-packed star of the moment?
(Photo: Left: Canadian-American actress Ann Rutherford (1917 – 2012) prepares herself a pineapple and cottage cheese salad sprinkled with paprika, circa 1939, Archive Photos/Getty Images; Right: Cottage cheeses: Trader Joe’s, Daisy Brand, Good Culture; Design: Ayana Underwood)
I have a confession: in the middle of my 75 Hard spiral—a social media-sanctioned self-optimization grind disguised as a fitness challenge—I made queso. Not just any queso. Cottage cheese queso. This is a sentence I never thought I’d write.
I started the challenge this past February—partly to beat the winter blues in the Northeast, and partly because I needed a reset after taste-testing one too many of Santa’s cookies. I was committed to said challenge. This meant: doing two 45-minute workouts (at least one of them outdoors), reading ten pages of a nonfiction book, and drinking a gallon of water . . . each day. Most intimidatingly, I was supposed to stick to a diet of my choosing. I went all in: HIIT training, 4.5-mile runs, Becoming Supernatural queued up on my e-reader, and a squeaky-clean keto plan that had me eating organic, grass-fed (and grass-finished) beef that I could barely afford. I tracked macros and considered electrolyte ratios. I had come to terms with the fact that I’d become someone who used the term “electrolyte ratios” in casual conversation.
And then I burned out.
Somewhere around Day 42, I traded mountain climbers for Yin Yoga. I prioritized taking long walks, watching white-tailed rabbits hopping alongside the estuary near my home in Boston, Massachusetts, over chasing yesterday’s personal best. The diet? That crumbled when I tried to justify the cost of avocados and eggs and failed. (Within the last year, the price of a single avocado rose by 75 percent, and the usual three bucks I’d spend on a carton of eggs turned into five.)
Still, I wanted to eat well(ish), which for me, means protein-heavy, low-effort, and ideally not financially ruinous. So, like any overstimulated elder millennial trying to avoid decision fatigue (and wear sunscreen, and hydrate, and remember to call mom), I turned to Instagram.
Welcome @KetoSnackz to the chat. With 3.5 million followers, Rick Wiggins shares quick, high-protein recipes meant to satisfy cravings while staying protein-powered. His creations looked suspiciously easy. His voice was refreshingly monotone. I was in.
As I scrolled, one ingredient kept popping up, an ingredient I found personally affronting: cottage cheese. It was white and lumpy. It was wet. It was everywhere. Rick blended it into pizza crusts, brownies, and pancakes. And it wasn’t just on Rick’s page. TikTok, too, had fully surrendered to the curd—which was confusing. Because for me, I never saw it in my Caribbean household growing up. My parents didn’t eat it. We didn’t cook with it. To borrow from Mariah Carey: I don’t know her.
So when I made queso out of it (blended with cheddar, cream, taco seasoning, and hot sauce) and served it to a friend while hanging out, I didn’t tell them what was in it. They liked it. Called it “fire.” Then I broke the news.
They looked at me like I’d confessed to putting mayonnaise in brownies: “Wait . . . like, real cottage cheese?”
“Yes. From a tub. Bought on purpose.”
I was surprised, too, because the queso was, in fact, fire. But I was also curious. Because how did goat cheese’s sad, curdled step-cousin become America’s newest protein-packed heartthrob?
I. TikTok, but Make It Clumpy
In April 2023, holistic nutritionist Lainie Kates—@lainiecooks on TikTok and one of the creators credited for the renewed interest in cottage cheese—posted a high-protein peanut butter cheesecake “ice cream” recipe. In it, she blended cottage cheese, peanut butter, chocolate chips, and maple syrup. Froze it. Ate it. Her video went viral. The internet was flooded with cheesecake bowls, ranch dips, and “protein donuts”—most of which starred cottage cheese. It didn’t matter that the texture was off-putting. It blended well. It hit macros. That was enough.
Then brands caught on. In 2024, Daisy, sour cream’s shepherd, partnered with The Bachelor’s Daisy Kent to promote the brand’s equally famous cottage cheese.
Just this month, Trader Joe’s dropped Ranch Cottage Cheese Dip. Good Culture, a brand started in 2015, was literally born out of the desire to bring a revamped, better-tasting, and healthier version of cottage cheese to the public. A few weeks ago, they put out a meme-laden statement on Instagram saying that they can’t keep up with the demand for their iconic cottage cheese, confirming the cheese’s renewed popularity.
The message? This is food you eat because it’s good for you—crafted with “good-for-you-ingredients,” made with only “the good stuff,” and “a versatile bit of dairy capable of providing protein and texture.” That’s how the brands framed it. And if the messaging sounds familiar, that’s because we’ve heard it before.
II. A Short History of a Long Shelf Life
In the early 1900s, the U.S. had a problem: meat was scarce during World War I. To help conserve it, the U.S. Department of Agriculture promoted dairy as a substitute. Posters encouraged people to “Eat More Cottage Cheese.” It wasn’t just a suggestion; it was patriotism.
By the 1950s, cottage cheese had migrated from the war effort to weight-loss plans. It was low in fat, high in protein, and flavorless enough to avoid overindulgence. You could measure it. You (probably) wouldn’t overeat it. Thus, it was ideal for calorie counting.
That’s right around the time when the “diet plate” made its way to America’s diner menus—usually a scoop of cottage cheese, a ring of canned peach or sliced tomato, maybe a wedge of iceberg lettuce. It wasn’t really a meal. It was more of a performance. A way to show you were being good. These plates lingered well into the seventies and eighties, eventually evolving into the “Lite” menu I remember seeing at Long Island diners during my childhood in the nineties. Same scoop, same canned fruit—just rebranded for the next generation of restraint.
By 1972, Americans were eating about five pounds of cottage cheese per person each year. Even Richard Nixon was known to pair his with ketchup. YUM. He had such a lust for lactose, in fact, that he reportedly requested cottage cheese at his 1969 inauguration dinner. And when he resigned from office in 1974? His final White House lunch was cottage cheese with pineapple and a glass of milk. A presidency bookended by curds.
III. Who Was It Really For?
Not everyone was eating it. Rather, not everyone was meant to be eating it. Mid-twentieth-century food campaigns primarily targeted white, middle-class women. Cottage cheese came with a message—eat this, stay thin, stay beautiful, stay in control.
Cottage cheese was sold as a democratic food: cheap, accessible, healthy. But it never belonged to everyone.
Even when it showed up in government campaigns and school lunches, it wasn’t a staple in every home. It simply didn’t catch on in many immigrant, Black, and working-class communities. Part of that was logistics. Cottage cheese requires refrigeration, fresh milk, and a cold distribution chain, not always available in rural or low-income areas.
Look at the ads. White women in full makeup, smiling at tubs of cottage cheese like they’d just invented it. One Eden Vale ad shows a nuclear family floating through a suburban utopia, landing at a table set with cottage cheese salads and a big tomato. A Knudsen ad features a flawless woman offering a tub of “VELVET creamed cottage cheese,” promising sweetness, lightness, and domestic perfection. Borden’s went all in: cartoon cows, crisp lettuce, and cottage cheese rings studded with peas and carrot sticks. No spice, no mess—just a carefully styled portrait of control, domestic order, and cultural exclusion.
These images weren’t neutral. They reinforced the message: this is who eats this, and this is how you serve it. In her 2011 book, Food Is Love: Food Advertising and Gender Roles in Modern America, historian Katherine J. Parkin argues that mid-20th-century food advertising reinforced narrow ideals of femininity, pressuring women to equate thinness, domestic perfection, and family nourishment with personal value. The goal of these ads?
But the bigger issue was taste. Cottage cheese didn’t reflect the ingredients or textures of most non-white food cultures.
My Caribbean family’s fridge, for example, held sorrel, pepper sauce, and mango chutney, not clumps of dairy. So, when I brought home a container of Good Culture to recreate my (self-proclaimed) famous queso, they looked at it suspiciously. Then they asked what I planned to do with it. When I said “queso,” they raised their eyebrows and sucked their teeth. They weren’t offended. Just confused. It’s understandable because the marketing never spoke to them. And it wasn’t designed to.
IV. Cottage Cheese Loses Its Steam
Even among the people it was supposedly for, cottage cheese couldn’t hold on.
By the 1980s, its popularity started to slide—quietly edged out by a new dairy star with smoother texture, stronger marketing, and fewer identity issues: yogurt. High in protein, rich in backstory, and aggressively rebranded as a probiotic superfood, yogurt didn’t just enter the chat—it took over the conversation.
Cottage cheese didn’t know how to compete. There were no new formats, no updated flavors, no attempt to win over younger shoppers. It stayed in its big old tub, parked on the fridge shelf. Meanwhile, yogurt was out living its best life—popping up as Go-Gurt in school lunchboxes, and with glass jars with foil lids in meal-preps. One became a lifestyle product; the other stayed a buffet-line staple at your grandmother’s favorite salad bar.
The texture didn’t help. In a 2012 study published in the Journal of Dairy Science, researchers found that texture was the biggest barrier to cottage cheese acceptance, especially among younger consumers. The graininess, visual lumpiness, and curdy mouthfeel turned people off, even when the fat and protein content hit all the right numbers. Even versions labeled “low-fat” or “high-protein” couldn’t overcome the basic sensory mismatch. People didn’t hate what it stood for. They just didn’t want to eat it and feel it on their tongues.
At the same time, yogurt brands were investing in stories. Chobani was founded by an immigrant entrepreneur who turned a struggling factory into a billion-dollar company. Dannon built a whole campaign around Georgian centenarians and the secret to long life. Yogurt had a point of view. Cottage cheese didn’t even have a spokesperson.
By the 2010s, yogurt was outselling cottage cheese nearly eight to one. And cottage cheese wasn’t just fading in market share—it was fading in memory. It stopped being an expectation. For most people, it stopped being an option.
So when it started trending again—sneaking into dips, desserts, and TikTok reels—it felt less like a comeback and more like a glitch. Cottage cheese didn’t evolve. It was just repurposed. And maybe that’s the clearest sign of its legacy: it survives not by being loved but by being useful.
V. Diet Culture, Rebranded
Today’s cottage cheese wave still centers on the same values: control, efficiency, and self-regulation. The language changed, but the pressure stayed. It’s no longer “stay thin for your husband,” it’s “optimize your macros.”
The look changed, too. It’s not a scoop on a peach slice. It’s whipped, blended, hidden in dips, ice creams, and sauces. It’s in a glass bowl, drizzled with chili crisp and tagged #highprotein on an influencer’s “What I Eat in a Day” reel. But the performance is the same: eat this to prove you’re doing the work.
We used to count calories (some people still do). Now we count macros. We used to tally Weight Watchers points. Now we use apps and fitness watches to track calories burned. We used to aim for thin. Now we say lean.
Blending until smooth is a requirement. The texture is still a problem, it’s just one we’re now expected to fix. And the brands know that.
Modern cottage cheese branding sells function first: gut health, low carb, high protein. The packaging often mirrors wellness trends—clean lines, block fonts, neutral palettes—the same aesthetic you’d find in a Scandinavian furniture showroom. Some lean into compliance culture, highlighting Whole30- or keto-friendly ingredients. Others soften the message by adding flavor cues, but even then, pleasure is usually positioned as a bonus, not the point.
Take Trader Joe’s ranch cottage cheese dip: “a fantastically flavorful dip,” yes—but only after mentioning its protein content, versatility, and use in pancakes, pasta, and frittatas. The indulgence comes with an asterisk. It’s not just tasty—it’s functional.
I’ve tried the Good Culture stuff. It’s fine. It blends well. But cottage cheese itself still needed a rebrand—not because it was forgotten, but because it was never truly loved. It has to justify itself because it can’t rely on flavor or nostalgia.
Maybe that’s why it fits so well into modern wellness culture. We’ve replaced calorie charts with meal-prep hacks. But the goal remains: Build a better body. Be a better person. Stay in control.
Cottage cheese still fits that mold. Just like it always has.
VI. Reflection: The Cheese That Refused to Quit
I didn’t expect to end up here—with a half-used container of cottage cheese in my fridge and a short list of recipes I’m not embarrassed to share. I still don’t love it. I don’t crave it. But I’ve learned to respect it.
That respect came from looking back. Cottage cheese didn’t trend because a TikToker froze it into a dessert. It’s been around for over a century, always showing up when we decide food should prove something. War, weight loss, wellness—cottage cheese shows up to work. (FYI: I explain some even more extraordinary uses for cottage cheese in the video below.)
Once it was about thrift. Then self-denial. Now it’s optimization. But the message doesn’t change: If you eat this, you’re trying. You’re disciplined. You’re doing it right.
And that’s why it still makes people uncomfortable.
You don’t have to explain why you like donuts. But cottage cheese? You need a reason. High protein. Gut-friendly. You don’t just eat it, you earn it.
Whether I’ve earned it or not, I’ve blended it into queso. Stirred it into pancakes. Eaten it—very reluctantly—by the spoonful. Once. I’m not a fan.
But I’m not against it anymore, either.
Marisa McMillan is a first-generation Caribbean-American writer, podcast host, and relationship management professional with a passion for storytelling, social justice, and asking the questions that often go unspoken. With a background in eCommerce strategy, client partnerships, and digital communication, she brings curiosity, humor, and heart to every conversation. She hosts a podcast that explores women’s health through honest dialogue, generational storytelling, and the kinds of questions rarely asked out loud. Rooted in a love of nature, movement, and meaningful connection, Marisa sees storytelling as a bridge—elevating overlooked narratives and creating space for empathy, growth, and impact. She holds a B.A. in English and Political Science from Boston University.
Destinations & Things To Do
Day 91: Flipping from Virginia to New Hampshire

- Flipping from Washington DC (near Harpers Ferry, 1025.7) to nearby Hanover, NH (1756.1)
- 0 feet ascent, 0 feet descent
Trains are exciting to us. Once we trained from our town in Montana to Seattle, WA and back just because we found a cheap ticket. We have traveled on trains in Scotland, the UK, Switzerland, and Germany. We were jazzed about our ride on the famous Vermonter train.
We did a fair amount of reading about the Vermonter so we would be well informed about what we needed to do to make our day fun and comfortable. For example, we discovered that after New York City the first two cars behind the engine would be split off and sent another way.
Train Shirts
Days before the trip, we decided to purchase AT tee shirts for the ride. We really liked the idea. First, it helped support the ATC, second, they wouldn’t stink, and finally, they reminded us we belonged to the Appalachian Trail even when we were on the train.
My tee shirts said the Appalachian Trail on the front and had a topo map graphic on the back. The Historian fell in love with a shirt that had no words, and instead had a white blaze on it.
We both loved the graphic pun. As long as I follow The Historian, I won’t get lost. I can always find a white blaze!
Queuing Up
We were eager to board the train as soon as we could. No seats were assigned and the train was full to capacity. We wanted to be seated together, not in the first two cars, and hopefully pointing in the direction of travel.
We heard the first call for boarding and headed to queue up. A nice employee directed us away from the main queue to the far line. Turned out we were seniors and and would likely need extra time for boarding. We were placed with the other old people and the families with strollers. It felt a little fraudulent, as we could have sprinted over the tops of most of the people in queue like rocks in Virginia, but we did not argue.
We are used to being called out on the Trail because of our green ATC hang tags. People often indelicately gasp and say, “You’re thru hiking! ” We always explain we are finishing a 1975 thru hike attempt but sometimes that makes it worse.
We never inquire about the gasp, but assume it is related to our age. The first time it happened was in Southern Virginia. We met a father and two adolescent sons. We had a short, polite hello and hiked on. After we went by one of the sons, upon seeing our green tags, he cried out, “Dad! They are thru hiking!” The dad was embarrassed but we thought it was fine fun.
Apparently backpacks with green ATC hang tags didn’t have any meaning in the train.
We Need a Motor
Together, we stood in line with the older and youngest folks for quite some time. Across the queues, people were politely waiting but starting to get antsy.
An official looking lady in an Amtrak uniform, complete with hat, made her way through the crowd announcing we were in need of a motor. A few people giggled and asked each other if they might have a spare motor. No one could produce the needed motor.
After a while, our priority boarding line began to move. We must have a motor. When the hords were released, everyone made their way to a coach. We counted 3 cars back and loaded up.
Everyone quickly found seats. We happily selected two seats together, facing in the direction of travel. Each of us had our ereader and I tucked our food bag by my feet. We were home for the day.
Heading North
The electric train engine metaphorically chugged out of the station. We grinned at each other, reveling in the thrill of undertaking yet another great adventure.
Sitting back in our spacious, comfortable seats, we watched as DC morphed into Baltimore. The spaces between development opened up and then Wilmington and Philadelphia appeared. Although the train did not run at a high speed, it was quite different than hiking speed. It was hard to keep up with all the details of what we passed. We didn’t want to miss anything.
Food, of Course
The trip spun out in front of us, the train eating up miles. We had eaten breakfast at Union Station prior to leaving. I had lemon pound cake (420 calories) and The Historian had an almond croissant. Conveniently, one of his favorite pastries was also the highest in calories, 671, to be precise.
After passing Philidelphia, we decided to partake of first lunch. It was a little early, but our tummies were up at 4:30 am so had a jump on the day.
I dug into the middle of our bear bag where I had placed our food to keep it cold. We has some leftover arugla which I snarfed. The Historian discovered that a Swiss cheese slice from Harpers Ferry made a great wrap for the Peruvian leftovers.
New York City
Our next stop was New York City. Of course, we didn’t have to budge from our comfy seats, but it still felt like a big deal.
I hiked New England with a fellow from NYC in 1975. We didn’t have trail names back then, but if we did, his would have been New York City Ballet. When he was in high school he would skip school to watch rehearsals at the New York City Ballet school. When we would slip and slide on rocks and bog bridges, he called it auditioning for the New York City Ballet.
Changing from Electric to a Desiel Engine to Go on to Vermont
After New York City, the front of the train splits off and becomes the Ethan Allen, which goes north into the state of New York. The Vermonter gets a new engine, diesel rather than an electric. Seated in the third coach, we were unpretuebed by the switch.
The space between towns opens up. We feel a little more comfortable seeing the tree to building ratio tilt towards trees.
All the excitement of the cities past, we naturally thought of eating (again). With a nod to the Hobbits, we laid out afternoon tea. After eating more of our Peruvian lunch we decided to check out the Cafe Car.
The Historian had an ice cream bar and I had peanut m and ms. It is astonishing how many of the dreaded things I have eaten in the past two months. No sugar at all for years and now m and ms. Another “won’t do that after we go home” thing.
Arriving in New England
The train rolled on, hugging the Vermont New Hampshire boarder. The views looked more and more wild.
We arrived at our station. On the platform we could see our friends waiting for us. After loading our packs into their car, along with their dog and grandchildren, we rode to their house.
They live on a quiet farm established 1791. It was a huge, and reassuring change from the city interlude. The train ride up the populated eastern seaboard was exciting, and we were happy to do it. Nonetheless, settling into comfy chairs on the back porch overlooking the mountains with a glass of hand pressed cider was unbelievably rewarding.
We have made it to the next step of the journey. Tomorrow we will visit, rest, eat and stage the hike between Hanover and Glenfliff. Tonight we bask in the glow of mountain evening light and the warmth of friendship.
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