Day 112 – Etna Nero

Chowder and I slept in until 6:30 at the lake, then slowly packed up and got back on trail. We had originally planned to ‘hero’ in and out of Etna, but after the past few tough days, we decided to take a Nero instead.

It was only about six miles to the road where we needed to hitch. Along the way, we passed the 1,600-mile mark! We’re moving quickly now and will soon have fewer than 1,000 miles to go.

At the road, we waited a long time for a hitch. The only vehicles passing were Forest Service fire trucks, due to the nearby Butler Fire. Eventually, a trail angel dropping hikers off offered us a ride into town.

In Etna, we booked beds at the Hiker Hut Hostel, where Stretch, PDF, and Rocksie were also staying. While we waited to check in, we picked up new Adotec bear-proof food bags at the post office, then grabbed lunch at Etna Brewing Company. After resupplying, we relaxed at the town library.

The Hiker Hut was a cozy six-bed cottage with a nice bathroom, kitchenette, and a well-stocked hiker box. They also had laundry and loaner bikes, which made getting around easy. After showering and starting our laundry, we rode into town and picked up dinner at the deli. They even had gluten-free bread so I was able to get a delicious sandwich.

We spent the evening hanging with friends back at the Hiker Hut. I fell asleep quickly in my comfy bunk.

Day 113 – Deer Mafia

We slept in and got up around 7 a.m. The hostel provided free breakfast coupons to a local bakery, so we all biked down. I had a frittata and fruit, while Chowder went for a massive focaccia egg sandwich. While eating, we ran into our friend Gandalf and caught up with him before heading back to the hostel to check out.

We stopped by the local gear shop for fuel, then hung out at a coffee shop until it was time to hitch. It only took five minutes before a guy working fire-related contracts picked us up. Within half an hour, we were back on trail.

We aimed to hike 11 miles. The first few miles were beautiful, with views of Mount Shasta in the distance. But by afternoon, a thunderstorm rolled in. We threw on rain gear but still got soaked by hail and rain. Thankfully, the storm passed quickly, and we only had a couple miles left to camp.

At camp, we had dinner with our friends, but around 7 p.m., a group of deer showed up. They were notscared of us. We kept trying to chase them off, but they kept returning. Eventually, we hid all our belongings inside the tent and zipped everything shut to avoid deer harassment. They kept us up through the night, digging and prancing around our tent.

Day 114 – More Storms

We didn’t sleep well after the deer séance, and woke to find deer still waiting outside. One even followed Chowder to the bathroom. They were relentless.

We packed up and started a big day ahead. Today we’d enter the Marble Mountains, with lots of climbing. We hiked the first few miles with our friend John. After passing through a recent burn zone, the trail became green and lush, with wildflowers everywhere.

We climbed above a lake that reminded us of the Sierra, then passed into another burn area. Later, we had a slow descent, where we ran into a caravan of 15 pack mules and two dogs carrying supplies for trail crews. Trail crews, we love you!

We had lunch by an old ranger station and chatted with Scrub-a-Dub, who suggested our trail family (Stretch, PDF, Chowder, and me—two married couples) should be called “Double Date.”

After lunch, we climbed into the Marble Mountain Wilderness—absolutely stunning. As we hiked, thunder rumbled in the distance. We stopped at a lake to collect water, and it started to storm again. We waited under a tree until the weather cleared a bit, then continued climbing a ridgeline. Unfortunately, the storm returned with thunder and rain. We hiked quickly into treeline and eventually found a place to camp once the storm passed. The smoky sunset from nearby wildfires lit the sky beautifully. We made dinner, set up camp, and watched an episode of The Pitt before bed.

Day 115 – Seiad Valley and the State of Jefferson

We woke up early to a dry tent, packed up, and started the long descent into Seiad Valley. The trail was riddled with blowdowns—by now, we’re basically professional hurdlers.

After about 15 miles, we stopped at a campground for lunch under the shade of a tree. Then came the road walk into Seiad Valley—hot and exposed. But hearing thunder in the distance made us grateful to be down in the valley.

At the general store, we picked up sodas, snacks, bars for the next stretch, and some mini shooters to celebrate the Oregon border in a couple days. The woman at the register gave us a few State of Jefferson stickers—definitely a unique souvenir. While there, we heard some hikers had been rerouted by bus due to a fire near Etna Summit—just a day and a half after we left. We felt incredibly lucky to have missed it.

We’d planned to hike a bit farther but were convinced to stay at an RV park up the road. They had Wi-Fi, a BBQ dinner, and free outdoor showers. The shower was freezing, but worth it. We had fun chatting with other hikers and went to sleep near the road, occasionally woken up by logging trucks—a reminder we’re getting closer to home.

Day 116 – Road Walking & Thunderstorms

We packed up and decided to take the 12-mile road alternate instead of the steep, exposed trail section ahead, which was full of blowdowns. The road walk was shaded, had water, and turned out to be a good decision.

We hiked with Send It, Stretch, and PDF—good conversation made the miles fly. At the trail junction, we had lunch with John. While eating, a couple pulled up in a Jeep and asked about our hike. When Chowder mentioned we were married, the man turned to him and said, “You must be waiting on your wife all the time.” Chowder replied, “She’s the faster hiker—I’m usually the one trying to catch up.” The guy didn’t have much to say after that. I haven’t faced too much sexism on trail, but when it does happen, it’s always frustrating.

After lunch, we climbed three miles, then began leapfrogging blowdowns again. I started to get frustrated—I’m clumsy and often hurt myself on these obstacles. Thankfully, they eased up after a few miles… but the weather didn’t. A storm rolled in as we climbed a ridge. We stopped under trees and waited as thunder and lightning got closer.

After an hour with no break in the weather, we decided to take a lower forest road to camp. We geared up and power walked through the storm. Lightning felt uncomfortably close. When we reached camp, we were drenched. It was too stormy to cook, so we snacked and went to bed. Definitely a Type 2 Fun day—but we were so ready for Oregon.

Day 117 – Oregon!

We were thrilled to wake up to a mostly dry tent. Our rain gear and packs were still soaked, but we packed up and hiked north with Basket Case and Animal. Half a mile before the Oregon border, we met up with PDF, Stretch, and John.

I was leading and shouted, “I see the border sign!” We all cheered. After hiking almost all of California, crossing into Oregon felt like a huge milestone. We took photos and celebratory shots.

Half a mile into Oregon, we found trail magic! Spark and Papaya, two trail angels, had food, drinks, chairs, and their dog greeting us. We snacked, chatted, and soaked it in—it was a perfect welcome to Oregon.

The trail was smooth and well maintained, so we made good time. A few miles before camp, we stumbled on more trail magic: a trail angel grilling burgers. I had a delicious lettuce-wrapped one, and we got a soda from a nearby cooler maintained by yet another trail angel. It gave us the energy to hike a few more miles.

At camp, there was even more magic. Legend and Bee, two traveling trail angels, were cooking spaghetti. While I couldn’t eat it, Chowder did, and we chatted with them and our friends. We camped with views of Mount Shasta in the distance, watched an episode of The Knick (we are on a medical tv drama kick) and went to bed excited to hitch into town the next day for a well-earned zero.

She soars up the steepest roads in the Alps and descends treacherous mountain biking trails with skill and grace. She can pedal over jarring cobblestones, through deep mud, and across slick tarmac. She is, hands down, the most versatile cyclist on the planet, and the newest champion of the sport’s biggest race, the Tour de France.

On Sunday, August 3, French cyclist Pauline Ferrand-Prevot—we cycling fans just call her PFP—won the Tour de France Femmes. The victory solidified her spot at the top of women’s professional road cycling, and stamped her place in history as one of the most accomplished cyclists—man or woman—to ever race a bicycle.

Hardcore cycling fans like myself have followed PFP’s exploits over the past decade. And while the Tour de France Femmes victory is the biggest win of her career—she was on the cover of The Wall Street Journal on August 4—it’s hardly the first eye-popping win she’s had.

So, for those of you who aren’t students of pro cycling, here are five things to know about the newest winner of the Maillot Jaune. 

1. She’s an Outlier in Cycling’s Era of Versatility

Some quick background: As youngsters, most budding pro cyclists compete in bike racing’s four primary disciplines: road, cross-country mountain bike, cyclocross, and track cycling. At some point in their development, the very best choose just one to master. In past generations, for example, you rarely saw Tour de France heroes also compete in mountain biking World Cups or velodrome events in the same season.

Sport specialization shifted a decade or so ago, with hyper-versatile riders like Mathieu van der Poel, Wout van Aert, and Tom Pidcock entering the peloton. But even amongst this peer group, PFP stands out.

In 2014 and 2015, when she was just 23 years old, PFP won the elite world championships for road cycling, mountain biking, and cyclocross in a 12-month span.

I cannot stress the bonkers nature of this achievement—it was a first for pro cycling.

All three racing formats are of dramatically individual durations, involve different bicycles, and require different strategic acumen and physical gifts. And in each one, PFP beat hyper-talented professional racers who focus on that one discipline. She showed she could sprint, climb, descend, attack, and ride people off of her wheel on flat roads.

No, it isn’t just like Michael Phelps winning the backstroke, freestyle, and breast stroke. It’s more like if Tiger Woods used his talents for swinging a stick to belt home runs, win Wimbledon, and take the Masters.

From that year onward, every cycling fan on the planet knew that PFP was destined for greatness.

2. Her Dogged Pursuit of Olympic Gold

In women’s cycling, the Olympics has long represented the most important prize. PFP focused her attention on Olympic gold, and initially struggled under the weight of expectations and then injury.

Her 2016 Olympics were torpedoed due to lingering complications from a broken leg. Afterwards, news circulated that she might quit cycling altogether. Then, just prior to the 2021 Summer Games in Tokyo, she underwent two surgeries to address a recurrence of iliac artery endofribrosis—a painful yet common cycling disorder in which blood flow to the legs is reduced by a thickening of the arteries. PFP wasn’t 100 percent recovered for the Tokyo Games, and again suffered disappointment.

Despite the setbacks, PFP kept racing and winning. She focused her attention primarily on mountain biking, and won the world championships in 2019, 2020, 2022, and 2023. The sum of her five elite titles are now the most in women’s mountain biking history.

Her big Olympic moment came in 2024, when Paris hosted the Summer Games. PFP dominated the race to win gold medal in front of a home crowd. It was a result we knew she was capable of getting—but was hardly guaranteed to ever win.

3. She Made A Bold Proclamation

As the sweat was still drying from her Olympic victory in Paris, PFP made a bold proclamation: she would return to road cycling in 2025 and attempt to win the Tour de France Femmes within three seasons. The women’s Tour de France, launched in 2022, was not around when PFP was racing full-time on the road, and its debut in 2022 immediately made it the most important women’s cycling event on the planet.

The proclamation was bold. A typical cross-country mountain bike race lasts an hour and a half. Tour de France Femmes stages are anywhere from three to five hours in length, and there are nine of them in successive days. And while mountain bike races are individual tests of skill and strength, road cycling is a team event with chess-like strategy.

4. She’s a Cobblestone Crusher

PFP looked strong but somewhat shaky in her return to road racing earlier this year. During Italy’s Milano-Sanremo race in March, she was penalized by umpires in the final sprint—she was fourth—after they concluded that she zigzagged across the road.

But her skills returned quickly once the peloton hit the cobblestones of Belgium and Northern France. At races like the Tour of Flanders and Paris-Roubaix, cyclists must ride their stiff road bikes over bone-rattling and slippery cobbles—a surface that only the best bike handlers can navigate. PFP was second at the Tour of Flanders before winning Paris-Roubaix.

Her big Roubaix win—the first of the season—was a sign that PFP road racing skills and strategic acumen were back to 100 percent.

5. She Broke France’s Losing Streak

PFP won the Tour de France Femmes on the long and grinding Alpine climbs. She survived the chaos and crashes in the race’s opening half, and then dropped the other top women on the Col du Madeleine and the ascent of Les Portes du Soleil to take the yellow jersey.

There’s a historic significance with PFP’s Tour de France win: it ended a 36-year losing streak at the world’s biggest road bike race.

OK—if you want to be specific, there’s nuance in this figure, of course. The men’s Tour de France has operated since 1903, taking only a few years off here and there for world wars. The women’s Tour de France has been held, canceled, re-launched, canceled, and then re-launched again multiple times.

The last French winner was Jeannie Longo in 1989, and she won a race called Tour de France Feminin.

The last men’s winner was Bernard Hinault way back in 1985. Unfortunately for the French, there’s no male equivalent of PFP on the horizon.

That losing streak is likely to continue for many years to come.

The search for your next great vacation never stops. While we all love traveling to destination wine regions such as Napa Valley, Sonoma, Champagne and Tuscany, plenty of up-and-coming wine regions are worthy of their own entire trip. Wine Spectator asked top sommeliers and wine pros about the less-trodden wine regions that they would visit again in a heartbeat. Their suggestions ranged from the picturesque villages of Alsace to the Mediterranean island of Sardinia to Mexico’s retro-yet-innovative Valle de Guadalupe. Check out their picks and get ready to book your tickets!

10 Wine Country Travel Destinations to Visit in 2025

• Alsace, France
• Canary Islands, Spain
• Douro, Portugal
• Finger Lakes, New York
• Jura, France
• Puglia, Italy
• Rhône-Alpes, France
• Roussillon, France
• Sardinia, Italy
• Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico

Alsace, France

“I would absolutely recommend Alsace, France, for a wine-focused trip with gorgeous views, a rich culinary tradition and an abundance of wine! Biking along the Alsace Wine Route through the Vosges Mountains is an ideal way to get a sense of terroir and to see so many beautiful vines. The charming, fairytale-like towns like Ammerschwihr have a plethora of winemakers, so you can hop from cellar to cellar trying the diverse range of styles that come from this region.”—Sammi Schachter, beverage director of 2025 Best of Award of Excellence winner Nudibranch, New York City

“Alsace, France, located on the northeastern border between France and Germany, is one of the most historically and culturally rich wine regions of the world. It’s impossible not to be romantic about Alsace. The diversity of genetic material, grape varieties, geological options and variations in terms of soil type is the penultimate jackpot for wine travel. Due to tumultuous political and cultural events of the 19th and 20th centuries, the wine culture is one of great interest and intrigue. One could visit Alsace many times and leave so much unexplored. Really high-caliber winemaking with earnest approaches to farming. The idyllic village and town centers, a perfect backdrop for a fun-packed adventure. La Confrérie Saint-Étienne, a 60,000-bottle library dating back to 1834 in a 12th-century castle, is as good as it gets in terms of visits.”—Nader Asgari-Tari, director of wine for BCB3 Hospitality, including 2025 Best of Award of Excellence winner Zurito, Boston

“Alsace, France! This proud French wine region offers a unique ‘double culture,’ blending French heritage with German influence. The city of Strasbourg is both beautiful and lively, while the surrounding countryside is dotted with small, charming villages nestled among the hills of Grand Cru vineyards. Visitors will find Michelin-starred dining, warm hospitality and a deep sense of tradition. Many winemakers here represent the 15th, 16th or even 17th generation of their family. Alsace also produces some of the most age-worthy white wines in the world, and local wine lists feature rare bottles you won’t find anywhere else.”—Sarah Foote, director of wine and service for Harvest, Morristown, Ariz.

Canary Islands, Spain

“The Canary Islands are an underrated wine region where volcanic soils, native grapes like Listán Negro and stunning Atlantic views create a truly distinctive wine experience. The ash- and mineral-rich terrain gives the wines a salty, smoky character that’s hard to find elsewhere. Add vibrant local cuisine and a relaxed island atmosphere, and it becomes a must-visit for wine lovers.” —Heather Rivas, wine director of Award of Excellence winner Boulon Brasserie, Tampa, Fla.

Douro Valley, Portugal

“I would say Douro, Portugal, where I most recently visited. First of all, it is a beautiful place to visit, with such welcoming people. I think Portuguese wines in general are very underrated right now. There are so many good wines from the Douro Valley: It varies from a complex, bright, crispy, citrus-driven white Rabigato to a dark-fruited, structured red Touriga Nacional. Of course, my favorite fortified wine, Port, is also found here. I also think you can find the ultimate value from Portuguese wines [in terms of] price and quality.” —Steve Kim, head sommelier at Kuma Hospitality Group, including Best of Award of Excellence winner l’abeille, New York City

Finger Lakes, New York

“For lovers of wine and the places they come from, the Finger Lakes region of New York State is a must-visit. Beyond the idyllic scenery of the area, the region is warm-hearted: there’s a clear sense of community amongst the growers and winemakers. And I’m happy to report that they are more than generous to visitors. It is very simple to spend a day tasting world-class quality dry and off-dry Riesling, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay and other colder-climate varieties. I’m very drawn to how the community is focused on the future of viticulture. The Finger Lakes is a center for research on climate change, hybrid varieties and clonal selection, and getting to experience it all first-hand is both educational and highly enjoyable.”—Matt Turner, wine director of Lei, New York City

“As far as up-and-coming wine regions go, the Finger Lakes of upstate New York are at the top of my list. The wines are spectacular, affordable and fun! World-class Riesling is their calling card for sure, but other whites such as Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris, as well as a handful of reds—especially Cabernet Franc and Blaufränkisch—are well worth seeking out. Outside of the wine scene, the landscape is gorgeous, and nature-lovers have endless choices for exploration. Ithaca, home to Cornell University, is the ultimate quirky college town, with endless options for shopping and dining. Speaking of dining, my top recommendations are the incomparable FLX Table in Geneva on the north side of Seneca Lake, run by Master Sommelier Chris Bates, the legendary Moosewood in Ithaca and Hazelnut Kitchen in Trumansburg.”—Evan White, wine director for Best of Award of Excellence winner Bludorn, and Award of Excellence winners Navy Blue and Bar Bludorn, Houston

Jura, France

“One of the most underrated wine regions for travel is the Jura, tucked away in eastern France between Burgundy and the Swiss border. This hidden gem offers a mix of rustic character, alpine beauty and distinctive wines. Visiting the iconic wineries of Château-Chalon, where the story of vin jaune began, is a must. What makes the Jura so special is its authenticity with small, family-run domaines, centuries of tradition, beautiful scenery and, of course, incredible Comté cheese. It was also home to Louis Pasteur, and more people should visit to experience a place that feels untouched, with world-class wines, rich history and an unspoiled cultural experience.”—Chris Belk, wine director of Grand Award winner Bern’s Steak House, Tampa, Fla.

Puglia, Italy

“The first thing that came to mind for me was Puglia, Italy. Our founders, Tom Angelo and his daughter Kassidy Angelo, love the region and speak so fondly of it. I haven’t spent time there myself, but their love for it has made it top of the list for me. Puglia has beautiful sun-drenched beaches, rich gastronomy—including what many consider the best olive oil in Italy—diverse cultural history, ancient Roman ruins and a winemaking tradition dating back to Greek settlements in the area, pre-Roman times. It’s everything you’d want in a travel destination for food and wine lovers. Wine production [in Puglia] in the last 20-plus years has experienced a renaissance, with assistance from the EU. Some producers are moving away from bulk wine production and shifting toward quality and estate-level winemaking while still maintaining great value. While red wine dominates, led by Primitivo and Negroamaro, there is also high-quality rosato from Bombino Nero and refreshing whites from Verdeca emerging from the region. It’s well worth a visit.” —Daniel Bishop, wine and beverage director of Best of Award of Excellence winners Daniel’s, A Florida Steakhouse, Fort Lauderdale, Fla., and Daniel’s Miami, Coral Gables, Fla.

Rhône-Alpes, France

“The most underrated wine region for travel is the Rhône-Alpes. It’s not only home to exceptional wines, from the Rhône Valley to Savoie, but also offers a very rich food culture, stunning Alpine landscapes and year-round outdoor activities like skiing, hiking, lakes. In three hours, you can be at the beach too! The region blends rustic charm with amazing culinary experiences, making it a must-visit for wine lovers and people who love nature and landscapes. As a native, I can safely say it’s one of France’s best-kept secrets.” —Adrien Falcon, general manager of Arvine, New York City

Roussillon, France

“For me, it starts and ends with a trip to Roussillon, the southernmost region in France and [part of] Northern Catalonia. Beyond the sun that’s ever shining, the region is home to a deeply underrated food and wine scene in Perpignan, scenic coastlines in Banyuls and Collioure, the winding roads of the Pyrenees Mountains, and, importantly, is easily accessed by train from both Paris and Barcelona. As it feels generally less commercial here, it might be a little more challenging to make winery/vineyard visits unless you have some French to get around with, but that’s offset by many of the local restaurants and bars sourcing largely from winemakers of the region. People are extremely welcoming in the South, and I honestly think you can get a sense for that in the wines they make: sun-kissed, generous of fruit, always with a sense of salt and brine from the sea, and quite often at a very fair price.

My favorite stops, if I’m allowed: Manat, Baston and Mamenakane for dinner, Lady Jaja for the party following, and El Xadic Del Mar in Banyuls-sur-Mer for lunch the morning after, with a swing through La Boutique de la Guinelle for some souvenirs.” —Andy Schwartz, partner and wine director of Baby Bistro, Los Angeles

Sardinia, Italy

“Sardinia stands at the top of my list for dream wine destinations. The modestly sized Mediterranean isle is home to not just pristine white sand beaches, but also some of my favorite representations of island wine: Vermentino di Gallura, Vernaccia di Oristano, Cannonau di Sardegna and Carignano del Sulcis. Consistently mineral-driven, aromatically enticing and just a downright joy to drink, Sardinian wines can be perfectly balanced between fruit and funk. Not only are they delicious and scream for food, but these wines can easily compete with their more popular Sicilian cousins to the south. Take note, before the algorithms catch on any more!” —Calvin Barnett, wine director of 2025 Award of Excellence winner PERILLA Korean American Steakhouse, Chicago

Valle de Guadalupe, Mexico

“The most underrated wine region to visit is the Valle de Guadalupe in Baja California. While there has been wine made there for a long time, it’s really an up-and-coming region. It feels to me a lot like what I assume Napa felt like in the 1960s and ’70s. Creativity and experimentation are through the roof. A hidden gem in the area is a little family-run winery with a hidden patio: Bodegas F. Rubio.” —Jeremy Hansen, sommelier at Grand Award winner the Grill, New York City

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