Solo Travellers
‘The river becomes an otherworldly bayou’: five of the best paddleboard and kayak adventures in the UK | Canoeing and kayaking holidays

Make this the summer you get back out on the water, with fish plopping beneath you, bulrushes shimmying and kingfishers darting by. Even if you don’t have your own kayak or paddleboard festering in the garage, there are dozens of excellent hire places and guided tours up and down the country, on beautiful rivers, lakes, canals and coastlines. I’ve spent a couple of years researching a book about the loveliest, and here are five of my favourites.
Whisky and wildlife, Highlands
For many years the Old Forge Inn – often referred to as the most remote pub in mainland Britain – was well known for its live music sessions that would break out when the whisky started flowing. Locals and visitors were often moved to take down the musical instruments hanging on the walls and burst into tune. It sounded like the best party in the land, all the more so for the degree of difficulty it took to reach it, and the ridiculous beauty of the surroundings. It’s the only pub in the only village, Inverie, on the Knoydart peninsula, a heathery, mountainous hunk of the Scottish west coast that juts between three deep sea lochs, where seals play and white-tailed eagles soar.
And now it’s back. There was a period when things went off the boil under new ownership and the parties dwindled, but in 2022 it was bought by the community and thrives once more. Its pontoon has space for six boats, or you can pull up on the beaches nearby.
The Knoydart Brewery, occupying a deconsecrated Roman Catholic chapel here, supplies the house ales, while a Knoydart venison burger (£18) from the local deer estate is a menu must, along with cullen skink (£11).
As there is no road access, people come by ferry from Mallaig, make the 15-mile hike from Kinloch Hourn (a taxi ride from Fort William), or even kayak over – a strenuous and splashy seven miles. Far easier is to hire a kayak when you get there from Love Knoydart and explore the edges of the pristine loch, looking out for sea otters.
On of the best places to stay is the Bunkhouse, which has dorms and camping with views to the Isle of Rum (dorm beds from £29pp).
Arisaig Sea Kayak Centre can tailor-make day and multi-day wild camping trips in the area from £130pp per day, minimum four people.
A beaver safari in Kent
Hunted for their pelts to near extinction by the 16th century, beavers have been re-established in certain British rivers, including a stretch of the River Stour near Canterbury. They were reintroduced in 2001 at Ham Fen, a Kent Wildlife Reserve site near Sandwich, where they thrived and spread.
The most enchanting way to spot nature’s cutest carpenters is on a sunset safari by Canadian canoe down the chalk stream waterway, which ends at a riverside pub. Canoe Wild (£37pp) runs an atmospheric trip, timed to pass the places the beavers visit most frequently at dusk, when they’re most active.
Starting at Grove Ferry, you’re whisked by minibus to the village of Fordwich for a guided paddle back of just under five miles. On my September trip, a glorious pink sunset was the backdrop at Bootleg Lake, around which many beavers have dens, and we began to notice slippery mud chutes pocked with paw prints. Then, in the near dark … two loud splashes, and a dark shape careering into the water. “Definitely a beaver,” whispered the guides. “When they hear something coming, they whack their wide tails onto the water to scare away predators.”
Even a shadowy splosh felt Attenborough-level exciting under a blazing Milky Way, and we finished in the fairy-lit beer garden of the ivy-wreathed Grove Ferry Inn. Nethergong campsite nearby has pitches from £42.50, as well as a sauna, yoga and bushcraft classes.
A hidden brewery in Hampshire
This fantastically quirky paddle involves a hidden creek, accessible only at high tide, and a place where you can order your drink to be brought straight to your paddleboard or kayak.
This beer pilgrimage is on the tidal River Hamble, a baby river of 6.3 miles that flows east of Southampton towards the Solent. At its narrow upper end, near Botley, spidery creeks run off at the sides, including one leading to the Botley Brewery’s Hidden Tap bar.
Those with their own kit can park at Burridge recreation ground on the east side of the river, then follow a leafy footpath through woods to the water. Or launch further upriver from YMCA Fairthorne (for a £5.50 fee), which rents paddleboards and kayaks and has a cafe and campsite (hire from £20, pitches for four people from £39).
Heading upstream towards Botley, the river becomes gentler, narrower and shallower until it feels like an otherworldly bayou. Set off at least two hours before high tide so it’s high at the upper, final navigable end of the river, follow the stream through a tunnel and emerge at the foot of the brewery wall. You yell your order up and your pint is lowered down in a wooden box to be sipped while you float.
Another short channel, Curbridge Creek, leads to the Horse and Jockey pub’s waterside beer garden.
Let off steam by the Severn
Paddling back the way you’ve come can be a downer, not to mention hard work if it means going against the flow, so River Severn Canoes’ solution is rather brilliant. At the end of its self-guided trips down the River Severn from the Shropshire town of Bridgnorth you abandon your vessel and catch a steam train back on the Severn Valley Railway to Highley (£15). Routes of several lengths are available, including four hours to Arley (10½ miles).
Halfway along there’s a picnic stop on a beach at the village of Hampton Loade, where you could also have a cuppa and a jacket potato at the Unicorn Inn (mains from £7). It has nine (quite basic) B&B rooms as well as a campsite (pitches for one tent sleeping 2-4 people from £20), if you want to make this your base.
Finish in Upper Arley in Worcestershire, home to another traditional, 500-year-old pub, The Harbour. Trains run between Kidderminster and Bridgnorth, stopping at Bewdley, Arley and Hampton Loade. Those with their own kayak or SUP can take them on the train for a £5 fee.
In Bridgnorth, The Falcon Hotel (doubles from £140) has 14 rooms with whitewashed beams and exposed brick. River Severn Canoes also offers multi-day trips down the river, stopping at campsites.
Kingfishers and canoes in Cardigan
Paddling along the thickly wooded tidal gorge of the River Teifi in Canadian canoes feels utterly otherworldly: peregrine falcons zip from steep banks, kingfishers dart above water busy with salmon, sewin (sea trout) and otters, and there’s a little patch of rapids to tackle on an otherwise gentle two-hour tour with Heritage Canoes (£45 adults/£32.50 children). From its woodland base at the Welsh Wildlife Centre and Teifi Marshes nature reserve it’s two miles upriver to Cilgerran, where a 13th-century castle towers above the river.
Stay at glamping site Fforest Farm (two nights’ B&B for two from £340), a 10-minute drive east of Cardigan, with a range of cabins and tents – the geodesic domes come with their own Japanese-style wooden bathhouse with a super-deep tub. The site has its own atmospheric pub, Y Bwthyn, in a barely converted barn only open to guests, where candles send their twitchy glow onto slate windowsills, cocktails are made with foraged botanicals and local ale comes fresh from the cask. Cilgerran has a couple of heartwarming pubs, including the Cardiff Arms (no website), with a coracle hung outside; or head to Cardigan’s waterside bar at Albion Aberteifi, Fforest’s hip apart-hotel, or, on the opposite bank, its Pizzatipi, which has a festival feel.
Gemma Bowes’ Paddle and Pub is published by Bloomsbury (£19.99). Order a copy at guardianbookshop.com.. More details on paddling and safety advice at gopaddling.info
Solo Travellers
17 Best Airbnbs for Enjoying Fall Foliage, From Vermont to Colorado

Bed & bath: 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms
Top amenities: Hotel-grade Endy mattresses, sauna, wraparound deck and patio with a grill, parking for six-plus cars
Raw forest surrounds this super-size (sleeping 10 people) waterfront cabin in Ontario. Located 30 feet from the shore of Thirty Island Lake, fall guests get spectacular views of not only the dazzling canopy of gold, orange, and red leaves—but also their blurred, kaleidoscopic reflection on the water’s surface. And if you want even more of the beauty, you can take in these sights from the center of the lake itself—just hop in one of the watercrafts—a kayak, canoe, or stand-up paddleboard—from the private dock. Walk into the house, and you’ll quickly realize that despite the rustic setting, you won’t be roughing it. Hotel-worthy amenities abound: a completely stocked kitchen with an array of spices, a sauna, and Pendleton blankets in the bedrooms are just a few of them. (Take a look at our list of the best Airbnbs in Ontario within driving distance of Toronto for more options.)
Solo Travellers
The Best Time to Cruise Alaska 2024: A Month-by-Month Guide

April and May
If your schedule allows, not only does sailing Alaska in April and May afford the possibilities of glimpsing the Northern Lights and seeing wildlife emerge from their winter hibernation, it’s a more affordable and less crowded time to cruise, too. April and May are also the driest months in Alaska, so the chances of rain are slim.
Smaller ships like those that comprise Alaska Dream Cruises’ and UnCruise Adventures’ fleets can maneuver closer to the coastline for better views of bears rambling along the beaches and on-land excursions without another soul around. Alaska Dream Cruises added two new eight-day itineraries this season, both of which focus on remote wilderness, hiking, kayaking and wildlife viewing. UnCruise also has a new itinerary this year, a 10-night Aleutian Islands Adventure with Dutch Harbor and Kodiak itinerary.
June to August
Warmer temperatures, an average of 17 hours of daylight, and school vacations all make Alaska a popular destination for cruising in June, July, and August. Expect crowded ports and more ships out on the water, but that’s not to say it’s not a good time to set sail: bears are still active, as are whales and native bird life.
Oceania Cruises’ 1,250-guest Riviera sets sail to Alaska for the first time this season with itineraries ranging from 7 to 12 days through September, including a 10-day voyage roundtrip from Seattle. American Cruise Lines doubles its Alaskan offerings this year with five itineraries, including two new 16- and 19-day Alaska National Parks cruises. For a shorter option, check out the 9-Day Southeast Alaska Cruise, roundtrip from Juneau.
September
Not only is school back in session in September, which means fewer crowds at ports, but the chances of seeing the Northern Lights return, especially if combining your cruise with a land tour that takes you further north into Alaska. Fall is also mating season for wildlife, so expect to see some friskiness.
In partnership with Lindblad Expeditions, National Geographic Expeditions’ new 11-day Voyage to the Great Bear Rainforest travels from Ketchikan to Seattle with plenty of adventure in between, including seeking out the spirit bear (a subspecies of American black bear also known as a Kermode bear). Celebrity Cruises’ Celebrity Edge is sailing her second season in Alaska, offering seven-night Alaska Dawes Glacier itineraries in September, either roundtrip from Seattle, or one-way from Seattle to Vancouver, British Columbia. For a longer cruise-tour option, take a look at one of Princess Cruise Line’s new offerings highlighting the National Parks, like the National Parks Expedition that visits five parks over the course of 15 days.
October
The Alaska cruise season winds down in October, with only a few ships setting sail. Just as in April and May, you’ll likely have the water to yourself, and even fewer people in the ports you call upon. Along with cooler weather, you’ll also find lower fares that will please your bank account. Holland America Line, Princess Cruises, and Royal Caribbean International all sail in Alaska into the fall, but Norwegian Cruise Line is the last to set sail in the state with seven-day itineraries roundtrip from Seattle.
2026 and beyond
Though we’re in the midst of the 2025 sailing season, if you’re looking to plan ahead for 2026 and even 2027, there’s even more from which to choose. For example, in May 2026 Princess Cruises’ newest ship, Star Princess, will sail roundtrip from Seattle to the Inside Passage. And for the first time, family favorite Disney Cruise Line will have two ships in Alaska in 2026 when Disney Magic joins Disney Wonder to offers 35 seven-night itineraries over the summer. Holland America Line, which has sailed in Alaska for more than 75 years, is debuting its new 14-day Great Alaska Explorer in 2026. Itinerary highlights include Anchorage, Juneau, Ketchikan, Kodiak, Valdez, and Prince Rupert, not to mention Glacier Bay scenic cruising.
A handful of cruise lines are sailing to Alaska for the first time in 2026, with another making a return to the Far North. MSC Cruises embarks upon its inaugural Alaska cruise season in May 2026 when MSC Poesia sets sail on seven-night itineraries roundtrip from Seattle. Another newcomer is The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection with Luminara setting sail on seven- to 11-night itineraries, including the seven-night roundtrip voyage from Vancouver. And Virgin Voyages will embark upon seven- to 12-night itineraries aboard Brilliant Lady, like the Alaskan Glacier Blues & Coastal Views sailing. Azamara Cruises returns to Alaska when Azamara Pursuit sets out on its 10- and 11-night itineraries with new immersive cruise-tours for those who can linger longer.
Looking further ahead to 2027, Explora Journeys embarks on its first cruises in Alaska from Vancouver, Canada, on board Explora III. Her inaugural voyage will be an 11-night “Journey Through Untamed Landscapes & Coastal Treasures” in May.
Solo Travellers
In the Faroe Islands, Nature Rewards Patience
As the Faroes become increasingly popular with international travelers—a trickle of visitors has turned into more of a cascade in recent years, particularly since 2023—there is a greater need for creatively expanding infrastructure, while prioritizing the needs and lifestyle of locals. The Faroese are essentially asking themselves: How can we invite visitors into the home we love, without losing what we love about it?
I hoped to find out. In April, my husband and I flew into the airport on Vágar, the third-largest island, with a plan to drive to the Northern Isles before slowly making our way back through Eysturoy and Streymoy. It was a route that would allow us to also travel through those undersea tunnels, while also being conscious of the number of pricey tolls we’d rack up from using them. We hoped to also tap into the Faroese rhythm of daily life. What would it mean to take cues from the people who know these wild landscapes best?
On our first day, we beelined for the Visit North tourism office in Klaksvík, a small city of brightly colored houses on a spit of land between the open ocean and a sheltered bay of fishing boats. Reni Heimustovu, who staffs the front desk, smiled when we asked about hiking that day. “Last time someone wanted to go hiking in weather like this, we told them, ‘Choose life!’” she laughed knowingly. Outside, the long grass was blown flat on the surrounding mountains.
And so we learned our first lessons of traveling in the Faroes: One must always be adaptable.
We climbed back into the car, and ditched the hike, instead driving along a muddy road toward Klakkur Viewpoint, below which the sea yawned expansively. In scenic, rural parts of the islands, which describes just about everywhere in the Faroes, a source of tension with rising tourist numbers has come from the fact that visitors aren’t always prepared for sheep on the road. There are so many of the animals here, that in 2016, locals used their ovine population to map areas not yet canvassed by Google Maps’ cars; famously, the Faroes have more sheep than people, and their wavy wool provides a living for many locals. New signage on roads like these gently reminds visitors which grazing lands are off limits to hiking and sightseeing: the sheep have the right of way.
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