Tracee Ellis Ross has probably turned down plenty of free drinks. When she does it on her latest show, “Solo Traveling with Tracee Ellis Ross,” it’s not because somebody recognized her from watching “Girlfriends” or “Black-ish.” At a restaurant in Marbella, Spain, she was just another elegant woman vacationing and dining alone. Ross finds that to be the preferred state of doing things. A group of women seated near her table has mixed feelings about it.

They offer to buy her a drink, which she graciously declines; the incredible glass of red wine she sips with her ribeye steak is quite enough. Still, Ross swings by after she’s finished her meal to thank her neighbors for their generous offer. In response, one woman remarks that seeing Ross eating by herself made her think, “You’re sitting there on your own. It’s not good for you!”

Ross gently contradicts her by explaining it’s very good for her. Moreover, a little solo sojourning is good for all of us.

Modernity has yet to erase the stigma associated with women choosing to move through the world by themselves. Single women are confronted with it most frequently, but even people in relationships may experience some stranger’s pitiful regard while dining alone in public. Daring to step out as a party of one still draws statements about one’s heroism, as if the simple act of taking charge of your own contentment is on par with battling cancer.

At various times throughout “Solo Traveling,” Ross speaks to this, but with curiosity instead of frustration. She took her first trip by herself in her 20s. At age 52 and many luxurious vacations later, the actor is merrily determined to show others how glorious that can be.

“So often I look around and I’m like, why are there not more examples of owning your singleness and owning your childlessness with joy and with abandon, or also with choice?” she says during one of her many epiphanies. “Like, it can’t just be Joan of Arc or cat ladies. There’s gotta be something in between!”

“Solo Traveling with Tracee Ellis Ross” doesn’t give Rick Steves anything to fret over. Her show isn’t a repository of safety tips and travel hacks. Those are readily available elsewhere and should be part of any travel preparedness plan.

What isn’t as broadly explored is the common trepidation about venturing out alone, whether to your favorite, familiar eatery or Morocco, Mexico and Spain. Ross says she chose these destinations because they are safe for solo travel, especially for Black women traveling alone.

For two of those places – Mexico and Morocco —  the realization that they’re safe may be eye-opening to Americans inundated with headlines about unrest in countries populated by brown and Black people. I know this firsthand, having once regaled an elderly relative about my best friend’s extraordinary solo trip to Peru only to watch her recoil at the thought of any woman by herself in a country with “all that political unrest.”

Mind you, this was many years ago, when my relative’s fears were based on nothing. My friend, however, felt very welcome at each destination and even made several new friends. The only concerns towering over her trip were cloud-ringed mountains and the glory of Machu Picchu, which is visited by around 1.5 million people each year. Presently, that country rates a Level 2 travel advisory (i.e., Exercise Increased Caution) from the State Department. For that matter, so do Spain, Mexico and Morocco. To any experienced tourist, that designation isn’t unusual. But it may be enough to scare off a neophyte.

So we get why Ross opts to normalize voyaging alone instead of speaking to common fears about it. Maybe normalize isn’t the right word; celebrate is better. To her, solo travel is a glorious demonstration of personal freedom. “I get to build my life for myself,” she says.

In many respects, Ross is in a better position to play big than most people. She is single and rich, a prominent fashionista, the daughter of Diana Ross, and the founder and CEO of a haircare company. (Its products are prominently displayed throughout each episode, along with links to the company site. She’s shopping, why shouldn’t you?) To her credit, she doesn’t pretend that she isn’t any of those things.

However, her relative wealth doesn’t preclude anyone from doing their version of what she does. A dip in the pool is a reason to yell, “Thank you for my life!” to the sky. Heavy rain can be taken as a sign to eat tacos and enjoy beautiful cocktails. A rogue drink also appears on her dinner table in the episode where that happens. Ross doesn’t get into the why of it.

From what she takes on vacation to her in-flight ritual to her mindful hotel closet organization, Ross makes every undertaking worth savoring. With this emphasis, “Solo Traveling with Tracee Ellis Ross” becomes something more satisfying than lifestyle programming or a celebrity vanity project. It’s a rebuttal of the empty rhetoric that has somehow politicized a woman’s right to individual liberty.

The world of tourism entertainment is vast, extending from our TVs to our social media streams. Ross plays in both spaces. Living up to her designation as “the Internet’s favorite rich auntie,” Ross keeps her Instagram followers well fed with endless glamour and lots of clowning around.

“Solo Traveling” follows that map, styled as part excursion porn, one part travel diary, and a full showcase of Ross’ easy, goofball charisma. But it’s also genuine and unforced.

“This is me, just sharing,” she muses. “Sharing what it means to learn yourself, and then have the courage to be that person. Not just at home, and not just in your life, but elsewhere, out in the world.”

Ross’ vacation prep is the opposite of Marie Kondo’s pre-pandemic minimalism. She begins two weeks before the airport car shows up at her door and fills multiple suitcases with many more clothes than she’ll wear, snacks, even a tuning fork. Her three-pronged philosophy: Be prepared. Be “meticulously thoughtful” about one’s needs and comforts, hence the tuning fork. Believe me, I had my questions too until she employed it to make herself feel better.

Her favorite rule is bound to be yours too: Pack beautiful clothes, many more than seems sensible. “I pack for the beauty. I pack for the joy. I pack for the clothes,” she explains, finishing with, “And I pack for the disaster.”

She experiences a little of each. Looking elegant no matter what she does is a must, but so is peace and ease.

That includes during episodes of food poisoning or torrential downpours. Even then, because she’s well equipped, Ross finds delight in the fact that she isn’t experiencing these bummers at home.

Solo travel is big business, especially among younger adults. Experts link its rise in popularity to the pandemic transforming our attitudes about being alone. Having been forced to make peace with our own company, more people are finding their own companionship preferable to that of others, especially on vacation.

American Express’ annual Global Travel Trends Report from 2024 indicated that 76% of Millennial and Gen Z respondents planned a solo trip for that year. The same data indicated that 66% of all respondents would center those vacations around self-love and treating themselves.

That reflects the marketplace and attitudes of many single people, who comprise around 31% of the American populace according to Pew Research. In 2024, solo vacationers fueled an industry trend that hit $482.5 billion and is expected to triple by 2033.

Grand excursions like Ross’ are still rare for everyone, whether you’re rolling with a group or as a party of one. Quick getaways are the solo trips of choice for 57% of American Express survey respondents. But those count, too.

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Still, as Ross admits, good fortune doesn’t make anyone immune to sensations of isolation and grief. In a tender moment during the Morocco episode, she confesses her loneliness even after she’s had a wonderful time eating tagine and meeting exuberant strangers. But she voices this with an inquisitiveness instead of sorrow.

Maybe, she says, she’s missing some fantasy of what she had with someone. Then she wonders whether loneliness and sadness are the same thing. Happiness and joy, she realizes, are distinct feelings. “Happiness is slicker, bouncier. Joy is wider, deeper.”

Ross rests with those thoughts on her pillowy bed, then smiles broadly. “I get to go shopping tomorrow. We know I love that.” And we can’t help loving that for her, too. Her example shows that one day we might step into our part of that wide, deep ocean of a foreign experience with more confidence, having seen how enticing it can be.

“Solo Traveling with Tracee Ellis Ross” is streaming on the Roku Channel.

Watching this season of The Gilded Age and want to live for a moment within that show’s world? It’s not difficult to understand your desire. During the late-19th-century period depicted, New York City and Newport alike were grand, blank canvases upon which the wealthy were able to erect massive and splendiferous testaments to their liquidity. It wasn’t all roses, by any means—the wives approached the Newport summer season with more rigor than their husbands had for business dealings, and divorcées like poor Aurora Fane were socially destitute despite no wrongdoing on their part. (Which is why it’s more fun to visit today.)

Below, we’ve rounded up the best hotels in both New York City and Newport to get your Bertha Russell on and steep in the period’s left-behind grandeur, plus some of the places you’d do well to visit during your sojourn to go even deeper.

New York City

Where to stay

The best things to do

Quite a few Gilded Age mansions remain on Fifth Avenue, which once bore the mantle of Millionaire’s Row (Billionaire’s Row along 57th Street is an equivalent for our times, and not nearly as attractive). Quite a few of these are open to the public in one way or another. Fifth Avenue is long, and walking up and down its Central Park stretch isn’t easy. But the greatest concentration of its Gilded Age pleasures is uptown, in a walkable stretch of the 80s and 90s. There’s the Metropolitan Museum of Art, of course, on the east side of Central Park between 79th and 84th Street, which was founded in 1870 by the Union League Club. It’s a major landmark of the period, but lacks the intimacy of a mansion setting—the massive building in which it’s set was built to be a museum, and has been expanded many times.

And so, while you’re up there, be sure to also swing around the corner to Neue Galerie on East 86th, where 19th-century German and Austrian art hang in the 1914-constructed mansion of industrialist William Starr Miller, designed by Carrère & Hastings (of New York Public Library fame). There’s also the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum within the former residence of industrialist-philanthropist Andrew Carnegie, and the recently-renovated-and-restored-and-reopened Frick Collection in the former mansion of financier Henry Clay Frick. Downtown (relatively), in Murray Hill, you’ll also find the Morgan Library & Museum housed in the library of J.P. Morgan (who features in The Gilded Age) himself. A few of these spots, and many more, are featured on walking tours like this one for those who prefer a more organized itinerary.

Newport

Where to stay

The best things to do

Touring the mansions is the best thing to do in Newport, period. Dedicate at least a day to seeing a few of them. If you can only hit one, hit the Breakers, which was the summer cottage of the Vanderbilt family (for whom the Russells stand in on the show). It’s a shockingly large summer home that has to be seen to be believed. But there are quite a few other homes worth seeing around Newport. Operated by Newport Mansions and the Preservation Society of Newport County, and therefore under the same umbrella as the Breakers, are places like Marble House (also a bygone Vanderbilt deed) and Rosecliff, the Versailles-inflected summer home of silver heiress Theresa Fair. You can book your Breakers ticket, or your Breakers-plus-one mansion ticket, via GetYourGuide.

Tamarind Tribeca

Chef-owner Avtar Walia has been something of a trailblazer in the New York City Indian dining landscape, ever since he convinced culinary doyenne and actress Madhur Jaffrey to open Dawat in 1986 in Manhattan. Since 2001, he’s been the force behind Tamarind, a Tribeca institution that revolutionized the approach to Indian fine dining in New York. The tasteful interiors are an elegant backdrop to refined dishes like lobster masala, prawn curry, and Nizami kheema. There may be no shortage of trendy new openings in the city these days, but Tamarind’s staying power speaks for itself.

Vatan

I could tell you about this Murray Hill fixture, but some things just need to be seen to be believed. The Third Avenue façade doesn’t begin to prepare you for what lies within: My jaw hit the floor when I walked into the unexpectedly cavernous dining room modeled after a traditional Gujarati village, complete with faux trees, thatched-roof booths, murals of pastoral Indian vignettes, and a massive Ganesh statue presiding over it all. Make sure you get comfortable in your booth because you’re unlikely to leave anytime soon: Vatan’s prix-fixe $45 vegetarian menu is an all-you-can eat bonanza. A massive thali is regularly refreshed with samosas, sev puris, bhaji, daal, chole, and much more on demand, plus endless ice cream and gulab jamun if you make it that far. Between the endless food and the quirky interiors, this is a place you’ll want to settle into for a while.

Dhamaka

Dhamaka means explosion, and that’s exactly how this colorful Lower East Side spot landed in New York in 2021. The Unapologetic Foods takeover of New York’s Indian restaurant scene may have begun with Adda (originally in Long Island City and recently transplanted to the East Village) and cemented with Semma, but it’s when Dhamaka opened that I first realized that Indian food enthusiasts in the city were in the throes of a culinary zeitgeist.  Restaurateur Roni Mazumdar and chef Chintan Pandya were the first team brazen enough to make food exactly how they wanted it, without dialing back ingredients (goat kidney and testicles, anyone?) or spice levels to cater to Western palates. The result was an instant hit with Indian diners eager for authentic flavors beyond butter chicken, and guided everyone else to push their boundaries and expectations of what Indian flavors could taste like. It may have inspired a legion of other restaurants to follow in its footsteps, but Dhamaka, with its colorful interiors and banging Bollywood soundtrack, is always a winner.

Brooklyn

Lore

I’m not sure why Lore isn’t one of the hardest-to-get reservations in New York, but at least that means chef Jayesh Kumar’s Park Slope spot has managed to retain its neighborhood charm—for now. Get there ASAP to try Kumar’s inventive menu, that leans on his South Indian roots and European training (he spent decades in Switzerland before opening Lore in 2022), and like me, you’ll be wondering what kind of a mad genius thought up unlikely mash-ups like roti ravioli, kimchi uttapam, and a steak au poivre with masala butter and fries. Kumar also recently launched a dosa stand at Smorgasburg, and will be opening a bar called Folk (get it?) in Park Slope later this summer—with creative globally inspired cocktails and clever small plates like biryani arancini on the menu.

Indian Table

With its distinctive tangy flavor profiles and heady Portuguese influence, the cuisine of the tiny western state of Goa is unlike any other in India—but it can be hard to come by in the city, aside from appearances by vindaloos or the occasional poee bread on menus. But when I’m missing Goa’s famous susegad—laid-back—way of life, I make my way to Cobble Hill’s Indian Table, where Goan chef Eric McCarthy guides diners through a deep dive through classics from his home state: think chicken cafreal, ros omelette, and pork sorpotel, and plenty of coastal classics like the kalchi kodi fish curry and crab cutlets. The dining room, clad in Portuguese-style tiles, is cozy, but when the weather is sultry you’ll want to grab a seat on the back patio stung with fairy lights and feel transported to a veranda in Assagao.

Queens

Angel Indian Restaurant

It’s hard to play favorites in Jackson Heights—you could eat well in this multicultural hub brimming with Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi, and Nepali restaurants for weeks without ever going back to the same spot twice. Angel, however, merits many a return. It’s been a local hit ever since it opened in 2019 (Bungalow chef Vikas Khanna is a big fan), with everything from a standout take on the all-too-familiar butter chicken to dishes like lotus root kofta that are rarer to spot on New York menus, plus plush naans you’ll want to swathe yourself in. But the star here is the dum biryani—in vegetarian, chicken, and goat varieties—that comes shrouded beneath a crust of bread. When the server carves it open to mix the layers together and releases wisps of steam that linger over your table, that’s your signal to feast.

Note: The space may feel a bit snug, but the owners just opened a second, sleeker location not too far away from the original.

Raja Sweets and Fast Food

Feeling snack-y? This Jackson Heights vegetarian joint is something of an institution for its dizzying array of fried treats and chaat, those textural flavor bombs that are the perfect union of savory, sweet, crunchy, and tangy. Start with some samosas and pakoras, then chase orders of sev puri, papri chaat, and aloo bhatura with refreshing mango lassi and lemon soda water. But if you’re thinking about satisfying your chaat cravings during a heat wave like I did recently, calibrate your order based on how much spice you can handle under a handful of lazily whirring fans.

Hindu Temple Canteen

You’d never guess from the outside that the majestic Ganesh Temple in Queens houses a basement canteen serving some of the city’s most authentic South Indian cuisine. Since 1993, the Temple Canteen has perfected South Indian staples like pillowy idlis, crispy dosas, and thick, buttery uttapams—all best dunked in a silky coconut chutney. The ghee pongal (rice and lentils with clarified butter) is gentle and hearty, a regular on my takeaway rotation. It’s a no-frills spot where bustling aunties keep the weekend crowds flowing efficiently while massive dosas sail past, stuffed with everything from classic potato masala to more adventurous paneer fillings. My weakness? The Pondicherry dosa—a triangular beauty spread with spicy chutney and a savory mixture that delivers serious heat. Paired with piping hot Madras tea, sweetened with enough sugar to temper the spice in the best possible way. —Pallavi Kumar