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Women at the helm: an all-female sailing weekend on the Norfolk Broads | Norfolk holidays

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Our yacht was in its element. With sunshine gleaming off the chestnut spars and a north-northeasterly fattening the sails, Windsong ripped across the mere, cocked at a jaunty angle, kicking up waves of joy. It was like a wild horse galloping through surf, ebullient, powerful and graceful. Only this “wild horse” was under the control of skipper Els Robinson and, to a far, far lesser extent, me. When the cry of “Come about!” came about, my jobs were to trim the jib (the small triangular sail at the front, I’d just learned) and not get hit by the boom. Oh, and to enjoy the ride.

I’d come to the Norfolk Broads to join a women’s Wellbeing on the Water weekend. I grew up on the Broads. In fact, I grew up just across the fields from Upton Dyke, where Eastwood Whelpton sailing holidays is based. But I never sailed. I didn’t know anyone who did, so it never crossed my mind that I could.

“Our ethos is to make sailing accessible to everyone,” explained Suzy Strowger, the company’s office manager. “Sailing has been perceived elitist, and has been largely male dominated. Our women’s weekends are about making sailing affordable and accessible to a demographic that’s under-represented at the moment.”

Sailing is more than moving a boat, Suzy added: “It’s a wellbeing activity that can particularly benefit women.” She sees women with full-time caring roles or high-pressure jobs come along, looking to support their health and manage stress.

The weekend certainly got off to a stress-free start, as we met each other over prosecco and cake in the boatyard. There were 15 of us: some solos, some in pairs, mostly 45-plus, ranging in ability from competent to rusty to total beginner, and here for different reasons.

For Katharine, it was about “having a new experience and getting away from life in general”. Jo was on her third Eastwood Whelpton trip: “I just enjoy the peace of getting out on the water.” Helen was drawn to the idea “because too often men take the helm – and there’s something special about adventuring with other women, isn’t there?”

The writer learning the ropes: ‘I took a turn at the helm, concentrating on not steering into the banks, boathouses or other yachts.’ Photograph: Sarah Baxter

There clearly is. Women-only travel – particularly active travel – is on the rise, and companies are cottoning on. According to the Adventure Travel Trade Association’s 2024 Industry Outlook report, of the companies taking steps to diversify their target markets, 38% are targeting women; “women over 50 travelling solo” was flagged as a specific trend. Also, more larger tour operators are now offering women-only departures while specialist companies are seeing increased demand: for example, when WalkingWomen launched in 2021, it offered 31 female-only small-group hiking holidays; this year its programme features more than 70.

An all-female environment tends to encourage women to push their limits, especially when the guides are women too. On this Norfolk weekend, our group was split across a flotilla of five boats, each one helmed by a female skipper – which is far more unusual than it should be in 2025. The skippers seemed as excited about that as we were.

Jo and I were buddied up and allocated to Windsong, a traditional, 30ft (nine-metre) gaff-rigged yacht, crafted in the 1980s by a Norfolk boat builder, and an absolute beaut. It has sleek wooden insides, an ingenious pop-top and numerous drawers and cubbyholes (which Suzy had stuffed full of food). One of the first conversations Jo and I had was about who was most likely to pee in the night (she took the bed squeezed into the bow, next to the hand-pump loo; I slept in the main saloon). You have to bond quickly when living in close quarters.

Els, our skipper, was commander-in-chief of the whole fleet. Before we hauled anchor, she unrolled a map and explained the plan for the weekend. First we’d motor the short distance to Thurne and moor up for the night; we’d spend Saturday sailing to Horsey, where a windpump (a windmill used to pump water) rises from coastal marshland once known as Devil’s Country; we’d sail back on Sunday. Mixed in would be boat breakfasts, picnic lunches and pub dinners, plus a few leisurely walks, some morning yoga, and an optional sea swim.

I liked boat life immediately. We drifted down mazy channels, looked across the vastness of reeds, spotted herons, marsh harriers on the hunt, even an osprey – one of the pair that arrived at nearby Ranworth Broad this spring. It was a bit of a moving meditation, too. The speed limit never exceeds 6mph; sometimes it’s just 3mph. “Life today is so go, go, go,” Els reflected, steering us towards Thurne’s restored windmill. “We need to slow down sometimes.”

Watching Els at work was part of the joy: she was calm, intuitive, in total symbiosis with the boat. It was tempting to let her get on with it, but she was keen for us to try, but only if we wanted to.

I took a turn at the helm, concentrating on not steering into the banks, the boathouses, the other yachts or the regal black-sailed Norfolk wherry that glided by. I helped hoist the sails, lower the sails and hoist them again, learned about reefing and rudimentary knots, and assisted with bringing down the mast so we could just about scrape under Potter Heigham’s medieval bridge.

Eastwood Whelpton runs official Royal Yachting Association sailing courses, but the wellbeing weekends are quite different. According to Suzy, some women come to refresh their skills, others to read books and drink gin.

A grey heron above the reed beds of the Norfolk broads. Photograph: Geoff du Feu/Alamy

Speaking of which, after a day on the water, cheeks ruddied by sun and wind, we moored at Horsey for “anchor drams” (cocktails), then took a walk over the marsh to the dunes. Some 3,245 grey seal pups were born here last winter. On the beach itself, a lone seal popped up from the grey-green surf to say hello.

Three of us stripped to our swimmers to join it. It was chilly, choppy and frustratingly shallow, but made me realise that I never regret a sea dip. The biggest challenge was getting changed afterwards: the north wind blew away my towel and my dignity. But did it matter? We were, after all, all girls together here.

We ended up in the Nelson Head, a proper old pub; a sign inside read “We don’t have wifi – talk to each other”. Which we did, sharing stories about how life has changed (or not) for women over recent years. The ladies spoke of having mothers who thought marriage and babies were all they could achieve, and of how their own daughters think they’re boring but don’t see the barriers they’ve broken down. Johanna threw in her graduation story: she came top of her (mostly male) class at London Business School but “when the chairman gave me my certificate and shook my hand, said, ‘I love to see a smiling blonde!’”

That night, as the night before, I slept in dozes, lullabied by Windsong’s gurgles, slurps, creaks and groans. I woke early, and crept out into a chorus of blackbirds, redstarts, warblers and cuckoos. At 7.30am there would be a yoga session under a tree, but I wasn’t sure how much more relaxed it could make me. I hadn’t become a skilled sailor, but I had thoroughly enjoyed this maidens’ voyage.

The trip was provided by Eastwood Whelpton. Its next Women on the Water Wellbeing Weekends start 12 Sept and 15 May 2026, from £433pp. Places are also available on women-only boats on its Norfolk Race Week (5-10 Oct, from £705pp)



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12 Fantastic Indian Restaurants in NYC

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Dhamaka continues to challenge the expectations of what Indian flavors can taste like—and diners can’t seem to get enough of it.

Adam Friedlander

Tamarind Tribeca

Chef-owner Avtar Walia has been something of a trailblazer in the New York City Indian dining landscape, ever since he convinced culinary doyenne and actress Madhur Jaffrey to open Dawat in 1986 in Manhattan. Since 2001, he’s been the force behind Tamarind, a Tribeca institution that revolutionized the approach to Indian fine dining in New York. The tasteful interiors are an elegant backdrop to refined dishes like lobster masala, prawn curry, and Nizami kheema. There may be no shortage of trendy new openings in the city these days, but Tamarind’s staying power speaks for itself.

Vatan

I could tell you about this Murray Hill fixture, but some things just need to be seen to be believed. The Third Avenue façade doesn’t begin to prepare you for what lies within: My jaw hit the floor when I walked into the unexpectedly cavernous dining room modeled after a traditional Gujarati village, complete with faux trees, thatched-roof booths, murals of pastoral Indian vignettes, and a massive Ganesh statue presiding over it all. Make sure you get comfortable in your booth because you’re unlikely to leave anytime soon: Vatan’s prix-fixe $45 vegetarian menu is an all-you-can eat bonanza. A massive thali is regularly refreshed with samosas, sev puris, bhaji, daal, chole, and much more on demand, plus endless ice cream and gulab jamun if you make it that far. Between the endless food and the quirky interiors, this is a place you’ll want to settle into for a while.

Dhamaka

Dhamaka means explosion, and that’s exactly how this colorful Lower East Side spot landed in New York in 2021. The Unapologetic Foods takeover of New York’s Indian restaurant scene may have begun with Adda (originally in Long Island City and recently transplanted to the East Village) and cemented with Semma, but it’s when Dhamaka opened that I first realized that Indian food enthusiasts in the city were in the throes of a culinary zeitgeist.  Restaurateur Roni Mazumdar and chef Chintan Pandya were the first team brazen enough to make food exactly how they wanted it, without dialing back ingredients (goat kidney and testicles, anyone?) or spice levels to cater to Western palates. The result was an instant hit with Indian diners eager for authentic flavors beyond butter chicken, and guided everyone else to push their boundaries and expectations of what Indian flavors could taste like. It may have inspired a legion of other restaurants to follow in its footsteps, but Dhamaka, with its colorful interiors and banging Bollywood soundtrack, is always a winner.

Brooklyn

Lore

I’m not sure why Lore isn’t one of the hardest-to-get reservations in New York, but at least that means chef Jayesh Kumar’s Park Slope spot has managed to retain its neighborhood charm—for now. Get there ASAP to try Kumar’s inventive menu, that leans on his South Indian roots and European training (he spent decades in Switzerland before opening Lore in 2022), and like me, you’ll be wondering what kind of a mad genius thought up unlikely mash-ups like roti ravioli, kimchi uttapam, and a steak au poivre with masala butter and fries. Kumar also recently launched a dosa stand at Smorgasburg, and will be opening a bar called Folk (get it?) in Park Slope later this summer—with creative globally inspired cocktails and clever small plates like biryani arancini on the menu.

Lore in Park Slope straddles leans chef Jayesh Kumar’s South Indian roots and European training.

Sukhbir Channa/Lore

The sea bream at Lore is coated with malabar spices and served with hot red chutney.

Sukhbir Channa/Lore

Indian Table

With its distinctive tangy flavor profiles and heady Portuguese influence, the cuisine of the tiny western state of Goa is unlike any other in India—but it can be hard to come by in the city, aside from appearances by vindaloos or the occasional poee bread on menus. But when I’m missing Goa’s famous susegad—laid-back—way of life, I make my way to Cobble Hill’s Indian Table, where Goan chef Eric McCarthy guides diners through a deep dive through classics from his home state: think chicken cafreal, ros omelette, and pork sorpotel, and plenty of coastal classics like the kalchi kodi fish curry and crab cutlets. The dining room, clad in Portuguese-style tiles, is cozy, but when the weather is sultry you’ll want to grab a seat on the back patio stung with fairy lights and feel transported to a veranda in Assagao.

Queens

Angel Indian Restaurant

It’s hard to play favorites in Jackson Heights—you could eat well in this multicultural hub brimming with Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi, and Nepali restaurants for weeks without ever going back to the same spot twice. Angel, however, merits many a return. It’s been a local hit ever since it opened in 2019 (Bungalow chef Vikas Khanna is a big fan), with everything from a standout take on the all-too-familiar butter chicken to dishes like lotus root kofta that are rarer to spot on New York menus, plus plush naans you’ll want to swathe yourself in. But the star here is the dum biryani—in vegetarian, chicken, and goat varieties—that comes shrouded beneath a crust of bread. When the server carves it open to mix the layers together and releases wisps of steam that linger over your table, that’s your signal to feast.

Note: The space may feel a bit snug, but the owners just opened a second, sleeker location not too far away from the original.

Raja Sweets and Fast Food

Feeling snack-y? This Jackson Heights vegetarian joint is something of an institution for its dizzying array of fried treats and chaat, those textural flavor bombs that are the perfect union of savory, sweet, crunchy, and tangy. Start with some samosas and pakoras, then chase orders of sev puri, papri chaat, and aloo bhatura with refreshing mango lassi and lemon soda water. But if you’re thinking about satisfying your chaat cravings during a heat wave like I did recently, calibrate your order based on how much spice you can handle under a handful of lazily whirring fans.

Hindu Temple Canteen

You’d never guess from the outside that the majestic Ganesh Temple in Queens houses a basement canteen serving some of the city’s most authentic South Indian cuisine. Since 1993, the Temple Canteen has perfected South Indian staples like pillowy idlis, crispy dosas, and thick, buttery uttapams—all best dunked in a silky coconut chutney. The ghee pongal (rice and lentils with clarified butter) is gentle and hearty, a regular on my takeaway rotation. It’s a no-frills spot where bustling aunties keep the weekend crowds flowing efficiently while massive dosas sail past, stuffed with everything from classic potato masala to more adventurous paneer fillings. My weakness? The Pondicherry dosa—a triangular beauty spread with spicy chutney and a savory mixture that delivers serious heat. Paired with piping hot Madras tea, sweetened with enough sugar to temper the spice in the best possible way. Pallavi Kumar



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Are the world's most beautiful islands in danger?

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The scenery and 24-hour sun on these Norwegian isles are no longer a secret



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The Best Ear Protection for Kids to Wear at Concerts, Fireworks, and Sporting Events

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There’s a reason your child covers their ears every time you walk past a construction site. Little ears are sensitive—and they’re especially vulnerable in the presence of fireworks, race cars, and screaming Taylor Swift fans. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, prolonged exposure to noise above 85 decibels (dB)—the typical volume of a hair dryer—can cause permanent hearing damage, even for adults. Now imagine your child at a Fourth of July firework festival, where pyrotechnics displays can top 150 dB, and you understand why packing ear protection is just as crucial as sunscreen and snacks.

“Our ears are always on,” says Dr. Brian J. Fligor, a pediatric audiologist, author of Understanding Childhood Hearing Loss, and president of Tobias & Battite Hearing Wellness in Boston. “Hearing is crucial for our language development and navigation of the world. That’s why we must protect children’s hearing from birth.”

The good news? Today’s earmuffs—over-the-ear headsets that help block noise—are lightweight, comfortable, and stylish enough that most kids won’t put up a fight over wearing them. They’re also designed to lower the decibel level without muffling or distorting sound entirely. (The goal is volume reduction, not total silence.)

Dr. Fligor advises using protection any time an event is loud enough to startle a child or requires shouting in order to be heard. He also recommends it when riding ATVs, snowmobiles, or other powersport vehicles where engines are not particularly well-muffled. And while hearing protection is not necessary on commercial flights, he absolutely recommends muffs for smaller bush and prop planes, or when attending a jet flyover show. If you’re not sure how to gauge the noise risk in any given situation, there’s an app for that: Decibel X sound meter for iOS and Android offers a real-time frequency analyzer for spot checks.

We asked Dr. Fligor, a father of four, along with other travel-savvy parents about the muffs that work best for their kids and why. Below, the best kid-approved picks for the ultimate ear protection.

FAQ:

What should I look for to find the best ear protection for kids?

Aim for a minimum noise reduction rating (NRR) of 22 to 27 dB for general use, says Dr. Fligor. For especially loud environments—like fireworks shows or racing events—higher is better.

What ages need ear protection?

Exposure to loud noise—anything over 85 dB—can cause permanent hearing damage in children and adults alike, which is why it’s so essential to protect our hearing from birth onward. Proactive protection for kids is especially important because they are less likely to self-regulate and move away from noise if it gets too loud.

Which type of ear protection is better for kids: earplugs or earmuffs?

For babies, toddlers, and grade schoolers, over-the-ear muffs are the safest and easiest option. They’re more comfortable, stay in place better, and don’t pose a choking hazard the way earplugs might. Dr. Fligor advises against using earplugs for children until they are old enough to report accurately on their comfort and effectiveness, typically around age seven or older. For tweens and teens, high-fidelity earplugs like Loop or Etymotic work well because they dampen volume without distorting sound (ideal for concerts).

How can I tell if the ear protection fits correctly?

“Earmuffs should form a snug but gentle seal around the ears without any gapping,” says Dr. Fligor. That means the cups are large enough to fit around the entire ear— including the flap of cartilage around the edge, called the pinna—and sit along the jaw. If they slip forward or the ears poke out, it’s not tight enough. If they leave indentations or the child complains about pressure, it’s too tight. To double check the fit, ask your child to shake their head while wearing them: If the earmuffs shift easily or slide off, they’re too loose.

Dr. Meter

Noise-canceling earmuffs

These have been my earmuffs of choice since my three-year-old son, Julian, begrudgingly wore them trackside at the Indy 500 earlier this year. The snug fit took some getting used to (my toddler hates winter hats, too, which is unfortunate considering we live in Minnesota), but he later requested—no, demanded!—the 27 dB muffs during a 20-minute Fourth of July fireworks display in Waunakee, Wisconsin.

Caroline Lewis, a luxury travel advisor in Boston, reported similarly positive experiences with these for her four-year-old son, Grant. “We use them every year for our town parade, which has a lot of revolutionary war reenactors shooting off muskets,” she says. Grant also wears the muffs when Lewis’s husband uses a blender or vacuums the house. In addition to being comfortable, she says Grant liked that he could choose his own color. He chose safety yellow, she says, so he could “be like a construction worker.”

Puro Sound Labs

PuroCalm earmuffs

Designed for ages 3 to 16, these earmuffs offer an NRR of 27 dB. They only come in one color (Halloween orange), but the craftsmanship is top notch. My son has flung them across the room in several fits of iPad-all-done rage, and they still function like new. We’ve also begun experimenting with Puro’s JuniorJams, kid-scaled headphones that limit harmful volumes above 85 dB. The built-in mic is helpful for online learning and the headphones last up 22 hours before needing a USB-C charge.

Dr. Fligor is a fan of kid muffs made with the same high-quality materials as adult muffs, particularly for activities where firearms are heard. Peltor has been around for ages and it’s his go-to brand for his own children. “Comfort is king,” says Dr. Fligor. “If it’s not comfortable, it’s not going to be used.” These cushioned muffs are designed for kids ages five and up and feature low-profile cups, a soft wire headband, and protection up to 27 dB.

Alpine

Muffy baby ear protection

Maria de la Guardia, the Bangkok-based principal director of The Big Picture Bureau LLC, has been using these muffs on her two-and-a-half-year-old daughter, Sophia, since she was six weeks old. The ultra-comfy style is specifically designed for children up to 48 months, with a safe attenuation of 24 dB and an adjustable, non-slip headband that does not put pressure on the fontanelle (the soft spot on a baby’s skull). The muffs come in a lovely selection of pastel colors as well as basic black. De la Guardia says Sophia has worn the muffs on numerous flights, during an outdoor concert in Abu Dhabi, and while watching a fireworks display in Malaysia. As an “independent, headstrong toddler,” she even tries to put them on herself. Alpine also makes a Muffy Kids version for ages 5 to 16 with an NRR of 25 dB and an even broader range of colors.

Sari Bellmer, an herbalist and founder of Heilbron Herbs in Asheville, North Carolina, has owned Banz muffs since her two-and-a-half-year-old daughter, Ursa, was a newborn. “We were actively remodeling our house when I went into labor—and she still wears them and loves them,” says Bellmer. They came in handy, too, after Hurricane Helene stormed through her region last year and the family was “running chainsaws nonstop” in the aftermath. The Banz models have a foam-cushioned adjustable headband designed specifically for little ones up to two, offer a NRR of 26 dB, and come in more than a dozen colors. Banz also makes kids’ earmuffs for ages 5 to 10 in a variety of prints, including stars and stripes, graffiti doodles, and butterflies.

Brian Bavido, a Michigan-based audio engineer for Ringo Starr, spends a lot of time at concerts, and these child-sized earmuffs with a soft padded headband and NRR of 25 dB are his top choice for protecting his seven-year-old daughter, Stella. “They’re from Vic Firth, a drumstick and accessory company, so they’re designed to really block out harmful high sound pressure but also be comfortable for extended wear,” he says. Stella, who has worn them to many Ringo shows, as well as Bruce Springsteen and Garbage concerts, loves them as much as her dad. Though she owns other brands, she always comes back to Vic, he says.





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