Papa’s is not your typical restaurant; it’s a cosy spot with a retro vibe, located right above the bustling Veronica’s Sandwich shop, reminiscent of a Singaporean shophouse. Set inside the warren of lanes that make up Bandra’s quirky Ranwar village, in Mumbai, India’s financial capital, the space used to be an old neighbourhood bakery called Jude’s, where freshly baked pao breads were lapped up by local residents.
The 12-seater restaurant helmed by chef Hussain Shazad, who honed his skills at New York’s Eleven Madison Park, is brought to life by the talented Hunger Inc team, behind popular establishments such as The Bombay Canteen, Bombay Sweet Shop, and O Pedro. The name Papa’s honours Shahzad’s mentor, the late chef Floyd Cardoz, who launched The Bombay Canteen. Since its opening, many international and Indian celebs have dined here, including pop sensation Dua Lipa and Indian cricketer Virat Kohli. The restaurant was listed on TIME’s annual list of the World’s Greatest Places 2025.
Chef Hussain describes the 13-course menu as ‘Indian in soul’ with influences from everywhere. The food ranges from Thayir saadam (curd rice) to caviar and everything in between. As Hussain puts it, he wanted to break free from the constraints of stuffy fine dining and create a space where lively conversations and relaxed meals could flourish.
Chef Hussain Shazad honed his skills at New York’s Eleven Madison Park
Our evening began with a delightful array of mocktails and cocktails at the small bar area, accompanied by a tray of hors d’oeuvres – savoury renditions of traditional Indian sweets inspired by Bohri meals. Bebinca, a popular Goan dessert, was given a twist with celeriac, black truffle, and date, while the typical laddoo was reimagined with cashew and quince.
The cocktails were inventive, served by hipster bartenders in black, and garnished creatively, such as with chilli oil dropped from an ink filler. From the Sea Biscuit cocktail with Tanqueray Gin, clams, basil, and fennel, to Chaasmatazz with Hapusa Gin, carom, cumin, and Greek yogurt, the focus was on local ingredients with a twist. Non-drinkers were also catered to with a creative mocktail list, my favourite being the tangy Tom Yum Yum with lemongrass, kaffir lime, ginger, and honey.
We had the privilege of sitting around the chef’s table, which offered a bird’s eye view of the cooking station, dramatically lit like a stage. The intimate and immersive atmosphere felt like dining at chef Hussain’s home. The counter, upcycled from an old wooden bar top from The Bombay Canteen, added to the charm. Hand-blown lamps, rich wood accents, pastel wallpaper, and photos on the walls gave the space a cosy, living room vibe. There were whimsical touches everywhere, from fidget spinners with messages to a lovely pocketbook where guests could scribble, colour, or even do origami.
Thayir saadam (curd rice) with Spanish goat cheese, slow-cooked beetroot, and shiso leaf tempura
Throughout the evening, we listened to Hussain share his experiences and watched him and his team assemble dishes with precision and flair. The sizzle of frying, the clatter of crockery, and the opportunity to watch experts plate each dish like a work of art made the experience truly special. Chef Hussain’s background, from Chennai and his Bohri Muslim heritage to New York, influenced his culinary creations.
The meal began with a simple yet inventive patti samosa – stuffed with feta, spearmint, and pickled apple for vegetarians, and tuna for meat eaters. There were traditional steamed Indian dumplings called modak, filled with charsiu pork and green apple, and Tibetan Tingmo with blue cheese, king oyster mushroom, and pickled chilli for vegetarians.
The team worked in synchronised coordination, dishing out flavour bombs with Indian influences. My favourite dish of the 13-course dinner was Pootharekulu, deriving its inspiration from a traditional wafer-thin rice sheet sweet from Andhra Pradesh, served with a corn and citrus salad, pomelo, and tamarind chutney wrapped inside a thin rice sheet. It was tangy and fresh, reminiscent of a Vietnamese rice paper roll.
The main course includes a biryani influenced by Chennai, made in the style of a paella with aromatic Indrayani rice from Maharashtra
Chef Hussain’s reinvention of Thayir saadam (curd rice) with Spanish goat cheese, slow-cooked beetroot, and shiso leaf tempura showcased his ingenuity and commitment to flavour. There’s hard yak’s cheese from the Himalayan region called Chhurpi which is made into a creamy soup, and served with two kinds of potatoes from Assam, in the northeast.
What impressed me is that it’s not gimmicky food that fails to deliver. I was bowled over by the presentation of each dish, with unique cutlery and containers. The ingredients are sourced from across India, but rules are broken all the time with cheeky flair and panache.
The main course included a biryani influenced by Chennai, made in the style of a paella with aromatic Indrayani rice from Maharashtra, crisped at the bottom, paired with a smoked white pumpkin yogurt dip and brussels sprouts, with the non -vegetarians getting a seven-day dry-aged duck biryani.
The unusual dessert comprises potato chips with lemon gelato and Champagne zabaglione, laced with honey
The next course Bugs Bunny, featured wild rabbit from Nashik, grilled on charcoal, and served with a dried red ant marinade from Odisha, with crushed pepper, cumin, sumac, a bit of fresh ginger, garlic and chillies. The dessert was equally unusual – potato chips with lemon gelato, Champagne zabaglione, laced with honey, and inspired by children’s birthday parties, and an ice cream sandwich served in a small carton.
Papa’s is only open for dinner and reservations must be booked online. It’s can be challenge to secure a slot, with people trying for months to get a table, but it’s definitely worth the trouble!
Factbox
Papa’s is open from Wednesday to Saturday, and seats 12 diners a night.
The tasting menus are priced at INR 7000++ per person. This menu price does not include beverages.
The Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) has issued a fresh directive for all food business operators (FBOs) across the country, including restaurants, cafs, dhabas, and street-side eateries, to visibly display their FSSAI licence or registration certificate along with a QR code that links to the Food Safety Connect App. This move, according to the authority, is aimed at empowering consumers and making it easier for them to file complaints about food safety, hygiene, and misleading product labels.
The QR code, which is now a mandatory part of the FSSAI licence, must be placed in areas easily visible to customers, such as entrances, billing counters, or dining sections. Customers can simply scan the QR code using their smartphones and be redirected to the app, where they can submit complaints or view key information about the outlet’s registration status.
Once a complaint is submitted through the app, it is automatically routed to the correct jurisdictional authority for faster resolution. This direct reparation mechanism is expected to save time, cut through bureaucratic delays, and improve accountability within the food sector.
In a statement, the FSSAI said that this initiative is part of a broader strategy to ensure that food safety remains a priority for businesses and consumers alike. “This measure is aimed at empowering consumers by providing them with a direct and user-friendly platform for grievance reparation,” the authority noted.
The app not only allows users to report hygiene and safety violations but also helps them check if a food outlet is officially registered or licensed. Users can also stay updated on FSSAI’s latest food safety alerts and initiatives.
Additionally, FSSAI has asked all FBOs to integrate the QR code across their digital platforms, including websites and food delivery apps, wherever applicable. This would allow consumers to verify details or report complaints even while ordering food online.
The new rule comes shortly after FSSAI issued warnings to e-commerce platforms to comply with food safety norms. These platforms are now also required to display their FSSAI licence or registration numbers clearly on all receipts, invoices, and cash memos issued to customers.
By making it mandatory to display QR codes at physical locations and online, FSSAI aims to build greater trust among consumers and promote a culture of safety, transparency, and accountability in India’s vast food and hospitality sector.
For celebrity Chef Ranveer Brar, success has never been linear. The suave Lucknow-born culinary personality, whose face is as familiar on Indian television as it is in gourmet kitchens, is unafraid to call out his failures. “My biggest failures have come from restaurants,” Brar admits. “None of my restaurants worked the way I wanted them to. Many of my restaurants in India didn’t do well. Soul of India in the US is not doing well.”
It’s a startlingly honest admission in a market that often celebrates chefs as infallible lifestyle brands. But Brar, 46, is cut from a different cloth. Even as he juggles television shows, acting roles, and a growing literary profile, he sees himself primarily as a learner. “I’m now understanding how to be better at managing and running restaurants — how to cook, how to translate the simplest of emotions into good food,” he says.
Shift towards intimacy
Brar’s career has evolved well beyond the kitchen. He has authored three cookbooks, judged MasterChef India, and hosted multiple food travelogues that blend storytelling with culinary insight. But 2023 marked a pivotal moment. He launched Kashkan, a contemporary Indian restaurant whose name fuses Kashmir and Kanyakumari and symbolises a pan-Indian culinary journey, in Dubai.
In 2023, Ranveer Brar launched Kashkan, a contemporary Indian restaurant whose name fuses Kashmir and Kanyakumari, in Dubai.
“We’re encouraged by its response to launch the second Kashkan there, which will open soon,” he shares. Unlike past ventures that felt either too stretched or too market-driven, Kashkan feels closer to Brar’s evolving philosophy. “In times to come, my eventual goal will be to be at just one small restaurant — a 20-25 seater — where people will be treated like they’re being invited to your living/dining room. This is where I’m heading.”
This shift toward intimacy — both in food and form — feels aligned with Brar’s larger arc. The public may know him as a celebrity chef, but in private, he’s also a poet, photographer, and publisher. “Not many people know that poetry has been my secret passion for years,” he shares. “Interestingly, I started writing poetry before I even started cooking. However, those were all secret poems. But lately, when I’ve started reading my poems out to people, they’ve appreciated it, which encouraged me to write this book.”
His first poetry book
Shikayatein (Complaints), his debut collection of poetry and his first foray into non-cookery writing, is set to be released through his own publishing house, Inkstain. “Photography and poetry — about people I’ve met on my travels — are my two biggest passions,” he adds. For Brar, storytelling isn’t just an artistic outlet. It’s an extension of how he experiences the world.
Shikayatein (Complaints), Ranveer Brar’s debut collection of poetry, is set to be released through his own publishing house, Inkstain, soon.
Much of that sensibility stems from Lucknow, the city that shaped him. “This interest in literature comes from my love for my city, Lucknow,” he says. “In fact, I’ve stood for Lucknow all my life — the city’s mushairas, kavi sammelans, and good literature. So poetry fits very well into my persona as a Lucknow boy.”
That cultural grounding also informs how he raises his son. “I’m constantly speaking to him about what he’s reading and where. I want him to read books — not online,” he says. This analog loyalty — to food, words, and human connection — is what keeps Brar relevant even as the media landscape changes around him.
Interestingly, his most surprising pivot has come not through food or writing, but acting. In 2022, Brar made his acting debut in Modern Love Mumbai, playing a character in a same-sex relationship — a bold move for someone long associated with traditional culinary programming. “I didn’t want to act. It happened,” he says. “But when I was offered my first role, I was hesitant because it was an LGBTQ role. “‘Log kya kahenge?’ (what will people say?) was playing on my mind.”
That hesitation, he says, echoed an earlier moment of self-doubt: “It took me back to the days when I was hesitant to be a professional chef also — again thinking ‘log kya kahenge.’” But Modern Love Mumbai was both a critical and personal breakthrough. “It emboldened me. It encouraged me that people are ready to accept me in a role that was very different to Chef Ranveer Brar,” he says.
His most valuable asset
That led to The Buckingham Murders (2024) opposite Kareena Kapoor Khan, and most recently, Maa Kasam, a family drama set to premiere on Amazon Prime later this year. “Acting gives me perspective. It gives me a greater listening capability that allows me to project myself better, encourages me to listen to others, which in turn makes me a better person,” he says.
To refine this new craft, Brar recently enrolled in a short course on camera art through Natyashastra at Auroville. “It helped me understand the nuances of performance better,” he notes, highlighting his hunger to learn and unlearn at every stage.
Despite his multifaceted career, Brar’s focus remains deeply human. Whether through a recipe, a line of verse, or a dramatic role, he’s ultimately trying to connect. “I want a space where people don’t just eat food, they feel it,” he says of his dream restaurant. “Where the act of dining is an exchange of emotions.”
That ethos is perhaps what sets Ranveer Brar apart from other celebrity chefs chasing scale and speed. He’s not just building a brand, but a legacy that’s rooted in emotion, guided by aesthetics, and tempered by honesty. In a culture of instant gratification, Brar’s slow-burning authenticity may just be his most valuable asset.
Governor Jishnu Dev Verma at the 55th convocation ceremony of Professor Jayashankar Telangana Agricultural University (PJTAU) in Hyderabad on Saturday.
| Photo Credit: SIDDHANT THAKUR
In a bid to achieve self-sufficiency in food, cultivation of rice and wheat have always gained prominence in our country. As a result, the local food systems were ignored, which not only impacted people’s health, but that of the climate, soil and water and biodiversity. This was one of the topics discussed at the 55th convocation ceremony of Professor Jayashankar Telangana Agricultural University (PJTAU) in the city on Saturday.
“To keep us healthy, we must bring back our local food systems,” said Secretary, Department of Agricultural Research and Education (DARE) and Director-General Indian Council of Agricultural Research (ICAR) Mangi Lal Jat.
While delivering his address, he called upon graduates to make a commitment to embrace agriculture not as a career choice, but as a mission to uplift farmers’ livelihoods, conserve agricultural heritage and secure India’s healthy local food systems.
He said that India, this year, has become the world’s largest producer of rice, besides horticulture, and is number two in wheat production. Doling out more numbers of annual grain production and achievements, Mr. Jat said that three factors contributed to the 11-year rapid growth: science, policy, and farmers.
“But the country’s goal must be to transform the agrifood systems from commodity-centric to systems-centric. From research prioritisation to data-driven systems and data inter-operability, to technology delivery system and institutional reforms, this can be achieved,” he said.
Gender and social inclusivity in agriculture research, system-focused research such as a combined approach of biophysical and socio-economic, and increased investment in agriculture research and development in the country, which is just 0.43% of the agri GDP now, must grow to at least 1%, compared to many countries with 2%, can make India a systems-centric agrifood system, he explained.
Digital agriculture
Governor and PJTAU Chancellor Jishnu Dev Varma said that the varsity, over the decades, has built a legacy of excellence through innovation, inclusivity and resilience, from rural argriculture experience programme conceived in 1979, which became a standard across the universities in the country, to the first in the country to establish a centre for digital agriculture, and Ag-Hub, an agri and food ecosystem and incubation centre now.
The university is in a transformative stage and is aspiring to secure a position in the top 10 agriculture universities in India, he added.
Vice-Chancellor Aldas Janaiah presented the report for 2021-22 convocation year, and said that 691 students did UG, and 153 got PG degrees and Ph.Ds.
The university currently has nine constituent colleges, 10 agri-polytechnic centres, 15 agri-research stations, 20 extension platforms and 29 ICAR network projects.
The report period is also a memorable one, Mr. Janaiah said, as the university facilitated the GI tag achievement for Tandur Redgram, besides producing 21 improved crop varieties and hybrids, 23 agro technologies, and two patents.
During the period, PJTAU signed 34 MoUs with technology and knowledge partners in India, and 19 MoUs with international universities, he said. 30 students got gold medals.
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