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33 Minutes of Fighting the Wind on Franconia Ridge 5.00

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Sometimes the weather forecast is wrong. We all know it’s an inexact science, and predicting the future in any form is a tough job. The forecast for Franconia Ridge today was light winds, clear skies and the caretaker had said the night before how jealous he was of people that would be hiking today with the incredible views they would experience on the alpine ridge.

I awoke to cloudy skies and a strong breeze rustling the tent at about 5.30am. This was not the day I was promised. Chestnut was in his tent on the same platform and he suggested we sleep in and wait for the weather to improve.

And so we did. A couple of hours later there were patches of blue sky overhead and we decided to get packed up and head onto the ridge.

As we climbed the blue sky patches withered and died. What we were left with upon attaining the ridge was grey, dull and breezy. 

I decided to pop up to the first side trail peak and Chestnut continued on the main trail. I did some extra distance for zero return in regard to views, even with my patience dial turned right up as I waited in vain for about 15 minutes for the cloud to pass. 

It really didn’t get any better after coming back to the main trail. My strategy was to crack an early lunch prior to leaving the protection of the tree line, and I sat for another hour while munching on tortillas and trail mix. This weather was not playing around unfortunately, and the wind if anything seemed to be picking up in speed. 

Wind Above Tree Line

For those reading that have ever ventured above the tree line on a windy day, you’ll have no trouble relating to the next three hours of my life. For those that have yet to experience the sensory pleasures of realising that nature can and will kick your arse whenever it wants, let me paint you a picture. 

I left the protection of the trees and was instantly buffeted by the strong wind. The Ridge was completely covered by cloud so your visibility is limited to maybe 50m. So you are getting pushed around by an invisible force while you are unable to see whether the trail is up or down in front of you. The wind robs your ability to hear anything around you, and the whole experience I imagine is quite similar to being put inside a commercial dryer on high spin. 

My first fall was particularly spectacular. I was stepping onto a large boulder on the trail (I may have previously mentioned the rule in the Whites is no trail maintenance…ever), and had one leg up at full stretch, and as I picked up my back leg to join my front leg on the boulder a particularly viscious gust of wind came along and smacked me in the face. This caused my body to decide to go backward just as both feet arrived on the boulder and I fell back landing on my pack. With ego and body bruised, I realised that the conditions were not optimised for alpine walking today.

Windier Anyone?

I eventually reached the highest peak along the ridge and was on the downhill(ish) part. This is where the wind decided to really see if it could lift me off my feet. Turns out reported gusts today were in excess of 80km/h and the wind chill was into low single digits.

The next hour or so was very tough going. You had to physically lean into the wind to avoid losing your footing, and with limited visibility all you could hope was that you saw a tree line ahead so you could get off the ridge. 

All fun things must come to an end and I finally caught sight of some trees. They weren’t real tall but they instantly made a difference. The ordeal of a wild Franconia Ridge was at an end, and I was very glad that was the case. 

Fall Deux

As Murphy (or Sod depending on the law you subscribe to) would have it, the skies started to clear as I continued to descend through the trees. To add insult to injury I then took my second fall for the day. I live a reasonably fall free life in general so I was becoming particularly unimpressed with my legs not staying under me. This fall was caused by my politeness, which somehow makes it much worse. I came across a couple of day hikers who in their exhaustion were sitting on the near non existent trail. I went to go round them and trusted a particularly large rock. The rock looked trustworthy. It was not. As the rock tumbled away from my foot, the physics of my body had me flopping down to the ground once more.

I rose up from the ground, dusted myself and my ego off and continued on down the trail. I passed a hiker coming the other way who said conditions had cleared on the next peak I was climbing, so a little good news perked me up as I began to climb Garfield (I assume this hill was named after my favourite orange cat).

Garfield 

It was a decent short climb up to the peak and I was finally able to see a portion of what so many people get excited about when they talk about Franconia Ridge. The view back to the still brooding hills was spectacular.

I savoured the views for thirty minutes or so while assessing my bruises and deciding I would live to fight another day. 

As you may be able to tell from my beard position, the wind had not quite let up as yet.

I dragged myself down the other side of fat cat hill and decided that my day was done. I headed to the next campground and pitched my tent on another inadequately prepared platform.

A delicious dinner of instant mashed potato and tuna was consumed at about 4.30pm, which I believe is a very reasonable time for the final meal of the day, especially when bed time is at 5.30pm.

The good news is tomorrow is part two of yours and mines favourite instalment… Operation Oatmeal.

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Bruised Up and Bloody After Two Hard Falls

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Last night I had made plans with Taylor to get a ride back to trail this morning around 6:30 AM. My hope is to be hiking north once again right around 7 AM. Which considering I stayed in town last night, is about as good as it’s going to get. It was hard waking up this morning because I stayed up super late last night. But I had bought myself a giant piece of raspberry cake which I ate for breakfast. That sure helped. Then Taylor drove me back to trail.

There’s nothing quite like eating cake for breakfast.

Even though I didn’t spend a ton of time in Quincy last night, that was absolutely amazing. It’s crazy how just sleeping in a bed and taking a shower can be such a major reset. Even after doing a big day and not getting much rest. It definitely feels like more of a reset than just ending the day in my tent for the night. Plus, I got to get in tons of calories last night.

Heading into the Bucks Lake wilderness.

Now today, I am only about 23 miles from the town of Belden. A tiny town with a general store, motel, and RV park, which the trail passes right through. And the overall structure of the day today is actually very similar to yesterday. The first 23 miles of the day there isn’t a ton of elevation gain. I think I’ll have one or two small climbs. Then I drop down 4000 feet to get into Belden. And leaving Belden I have to climb back up 4000 feet again.

The views through the Dixie burn are beautiful in their own way. You just need to change your perspective a little bit.

The morning wound up being really nice and easy. Plus the temperature was super cool. When I was in this part of Northern California in 2022 it was during a heat wave. And this area is just absolutely brutal when it’s over 100°. Because of all the damage from the Dixie burn there really isn’t a lot of coverage. So I’m incredibly grateful that this time around my experience has been the polar opposite. The temperature has been really moderate most days and even cool at times.

Heading to Belden!

Yesterday it felt like there were a ton of blowdown along the trail, and I went through a good bit of fire damage. But today it was basically all fire damage all day. The entire trail is just completely burnt, and the trees are left behind like a little black toothpicks. Some sections of trail do have a good bit of new growth. But shocking other sections of the trail really don’t.

Bucks Lake! It easy to imagine how glorious this wilderness must have been prior to the fire.

About 4 miles into the day I crossed over another major road. This is the second road where you can hitch into Quincy. And it’s the recommended road for hitching into Quincy because it’s a lot more populated than the road that I got picked up that last night. After crossing over the road, I began a very gradual climb for the next few miles. Then I was basically just up for a while riding along the ridge. Even though I was mostly just looking at burn, I did get some really beautiful views of Bucks Lake in the distance. I can only imagine what the Bucks Lake wilderness looked like prior to this fire. It must have been really beautiful.

The walking today felt a little monotonous at times. But on a bright side, it also felt like the time went by really quickly. It looked like I would be getting into Belden before 4 PM. Which was amazing because I was planning on going in and out quickly and then hopefully doing another 10–12 miles. I was also really dreading the descent into Belden. In 2022 this is where Peg Leg came to be. I was having really mild IT band problems prior to this decent. Then the trail dropped 4000 feet over 5 miles into Belden. And I think on that downhill I was going about a mile an hour.

Today there were a lot of wide open and exposed segments of the trail.

I wound up spending a couple days at the RV park in Belden. Then somehow continued along and made it to the town of Chester. In Chester, I took another few days off for injury and eventually got everything sorted and started my road to recovery. It’s just so funny being back here where the name was born. This time around though I was pleasantly surprised by the downhill. It was graded really well and wasn’t nearly as bad as I remembered. I actually wound up enjoying it honestly.

I got down into Belden just before 4 PM and headed into the store. OutsideJay had left me a box with some resupply goodies. I also bought some cold drinks and soda. I knew it was going to be a very hot and exposed climb coming out of town. So I wanted to hydrate a bunch and also take a lot of goodies with me.

In my memory, I picture this porch covered in hikers hiding from the heat of the day. But today when I arrived, there wasn’t a soul in sight.

At this point, I was planning on potentially doing this entire upcoming climb this evening. It was about 13 miles of uphill. So I chugged a Red Bull, ate an ice cream, and got rolling. I had seen one other backpack outside of the store while I was there, but the hiker never came by. Not long after I got moving again, though, they came running up behind me. They must’ve asked the clerk about me or something like that. Because the clerk told them my name and I think they came to catch up to me.

Leaving Belden to begin the 13 mile climb out of town!

This hikers name was Data, and our paths actually crossed earlier in the year. There was one late night where I set up my tent by a water source with one other tent nearby. Apparently next to him and his wife’s tent. The next morning when they got up, I was super apologetic about whether I might have woken them up the night before. But they said they hadn’t even heard me. Since then, his wife has gotten off trail because of a combination of things. But he’s planning on continuing to finish.

Warning: now leaving Belden.

We got to talking and then fell in line together and making our way up the climb. I think sometimes it’s hard for me to hike with other people. I simultaneously crave the connection while also craving the routine that I’ve created for myself. I find it really easy to hike by myself, make big miles, and allow time to slip away. I think sometimes when I hike with other people that time also flies by quickly. And sometimes when I hike with other people, it makes it more difficult for time to go by quickly. That might not make a lot of sense, but it’s just something that I’ve thought about recently. Every instance is different.

It was nice having someone to talk to and we walked and talked for the next few hours. The climb was graded pretty well, which allowed us to keep chatting. We were basically just continuously going uphill for the entire rest of the day. Thought it was the perfect time a day and was starting to get a little cooler. We also started getting brief segments of shaded trail. As the day went on the trail would get more and more shaded as well.

An hour or two after leaving Beldon though I took a really bad fall. It was just one of those perfect falls where your foot get stuck on some thing and you’re not able to free it. But my backpack is super light right now so I’m hiking without my hip belt attached. Which means when I fell forward, my backpack basically tried to jump up and over me. Which just made for a much harder hit onto the dirt and rock covered trail.

I knew almost immediately that I was completely fine. I could tell I had definitely roughed myself up a bit, but hadn’t done any major damage. Data seemed super concerned as I sat there on the ground. But I just always need to take a minute and slowly get up on my own.

A couple days ago I took a soft fall and scraped my knee a little bit. Now this time I re-scraped the knee and had ripped all of the skin off. So that was bleeding a little bit. But it definitely didn’t hurt as bad as the time earlier this year when I fell and smashed my knee on a rock. The only other damage done was that I smashed my left hand into a rock or onto the hard ground. It was super sore pretty much right away. But considering how hard I hit the ground, that actually didn’t seem to be too much damage.

My fingers don’t look super hurt, but the bruise took a while to come in.

We kept moving after that and the climb just went on and on. As time went on, though, I could definitely tell that my left hand was more hurt than I’d realize. It was very clear that it wasn’t broken. I took a similar fall on the Appalachian Trail in 2023 and my right hand hit a rock so hard that it turned purple almost immediately. This was clearly not as bad as that. And that also wasn’t broken. But over the next hour or two my hand started to throb and was incredibly uncomfortable. I also basically couldn’t use my left hand at all for anything. Which meant I couldn’t take my water bottle out of my pockets or do just about anything with my hand.

Are hands supposed to be purple? Probably not.

As we continued up the climb, the trail crossed over a lot of water crossings. A couple of them were a little bit tricky to get across with dry feet. I had actually read someone’s comment that they wished they had just gotten their feet wet because they hurt themselves doing one of the crossings. And at one point when I was crossing one particularly easy river I made a grave error.

I stepped out onto a rock that seemed super sturdy. But it was slick like oil and I just couldn’t tell. When I actually put weight onto it, my foot immediately slipped off of it, and I fell sideways partially into the river and partially onto some rocks. Once again, it was the type of fall that I knew immediately that I was ok. Honestly, the worst part was now half of my body was wet at 7 PM.

Data was behind me and saw this happen and ran over so quick. I thought it was hilarious that this man was here to witness two of the only falls I’ve taken in the last thousand miles. He seemed so incredibly concerned when he ran up to me. But I said that I was definitely fine, just soaking wet. The only thing that I did notice right away is that I had hit my right hand on a rock when I went down. I had a couple cuts on two of my fingers from smashing into a rock. So now both of my hands were sore.

On the bright side, it was only 7 PM and we were planning on hiking until just around dark. Which meant I had plenty of time to dry out before camp. I figured I’d still be a little damp later, but definitely not as wet as I was after falling in the river. It seemed like Data was originally planning on doing a slightly shorter day. But I said I was going to go up to the top of the climb and he wanted to tag along. Sometimes it’s easier to hike later into the evening or go further when you’re hiking with somebody else.

The last couple hours of the day the trail was basically the same as it had been. The elevation gain wasn’t too bad and was just very continuous. Honestly, though, I was feeling super sore after the two falls. Both my hands were throbbing and my right knee really hurt. It was scraped open and bleeding. Neither fall was that particularly bad. But it’s always jarring and bruises you up a little bit to say the least. I was definitely excited to get to camp for the night.

Making my way to the top of the climb right before the sun went down.

We wound up grabbing water a couple miles before the end of the day. Then had the freedom to continue up to the top of the climb and camp wherever we wanted to. As we continued along, the sun began to set, and it was absolutely beautiful. Then just before it got dark, we got up to the top of the climb. The views of the sunset from up there or even better. Unfortunately, there weren’t a ton of flat spots anywhere anywhere nearby. We just kept walking and walking and hoping we would find something. But eventually we went past some mediocre spots and decided to make the most of them. It just didn’t seem like we were going to be getting a significantly better option anytime soon.

It felt really good to be done for the day to finally be able to lay down. But setting up camp was already ridiculously annoying with my bad hand. You don’t really realize how much you use both of your hands until you can’t use one of them. This is exactly what happened on the AT in 2023 when I bruised my other hand. I’m just hoping that it feels significantly better tomorrow.

Entering into the cascade range.

Of course, though, after everything that transpired today, the possibility of taking a zero on Friday was sounding a whole lot better. And there was a slight change of plans today that made that dream seemed like a possibility. OutsideJay texted me today and asked if I wanted him to put me in touch with any Trail Angel’s from Chester. I told him that I was contemplating taking a zero on Friday but that there were no rooms available in town. He said he was on it and he would find a person to host me for the night on Friday. So it looks like I might get that zero day after all!

It was great to get to the top of the climb just in time for sunset.

Inside my tent, I didn’t have the energy to do hot dinner. I just decided to eat a bunch of snacks instead. I also didn’t have service so I wasn’t able to do too much on my phone. But I got a little bit of writing and video work done before calling it a night. Thanks to doing a big mile day today, now tomorrow I’m only 31 miles out from Chester.

My plan for tomorrow is to start early and get into town as quickly as possible. I’m going to stay in a room tomorrow night, which will be nice. I’ll be able to get a bunch of writing and video work done and enjoy some privacy. Then the following day, I will hopefully be staying with someone in Chester for the night. Jay makes magic happen so I know that I don’t have to have all of the details to have faith that it will work out.

If you enjoyed this blog and would like to support my hike by buying me a soda or a snack along the way, there is a “Tip the Author” button below! It links directly to my Venmo. Any and all support is incredibly appreciated!





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And just like that we’ve walked 500 miles!

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Our journey began on July 2nd as we made our way up to Harts Pass – thank you to trail angels Ani & Tigger for the local tour and ride up from Bellevue, WA!

We checked in with Ranger Terry at the Harts Pass Ranger Station and then began the 30 mile walk to the US/Canadian border. The trail was stunning from Harts Pass -> Canadian Border – as lifelong east coasters this is our first time on the west coast and we are thrilled to be here. 

Rocky Pass – on our way to the border!

On July 3rd we arrived to the northern terminus monument at 6:00 pm and hiked 3.7 miles (officially heading south now) – if we hiked this mileage every day we wouldn’t arrive to the US/Mexico border until next June!

The section from the border to Stehikin was one of our favorite parts of Washington and we are already making plans to return. Rocky and Woody Pass were one of my favorite areas. We saw lots of hummingbirds, marmots, wildflowers, and hung out with lots and lots of mosquitoes. 

Rocky/Woody Pass Area

 

Stehikin Bakery – a must stop!

After the first 100 miles, our time in Washington seemed to go by quicker and quicker. We swam in endless pristine back country lakes, hiked over pass after pass, walked through old growth forests, and hiked around volcano after volcano. We stopped in the towns of Stehikin, Leavenworth, Snoqualmie Pass, White Pass, and Trout Lake and were so appreciative to those who helped us out (Right Time, WAC volunteer – helped Matt get new trail runners, Jo Ellen, and so forth). 

Old growth cedar!

 

Red Pass

 

one of my favorite mornings just before getting into Snoqualmie

We are taking a couple of days in Cascade Locks to rest up before heading through Oregon! We have been loving the trail and are so grateful to share this experience with one another. We are realizing just how fast this journey will go so are taking everything in as much as possible. We are thankful for all of the love and support from family, friends, and folks we’ve meet along the trail! Looking forward to Oregon and hopefully meeting up with some friends. 

For more updates follow along on IG or Facebook @ashleydefayette

 

Happy Trails

~Matt & Ashley

didn’t see any goats so I guess we’ll have to come back!

 

sunrise over Mount Adams – Goat Rocks Wilderness

 

goodbye washington, hello oregon!

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Discover Hidden Gems In Heber Valley, Utah For All Ages

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Sunday, August 3, 2025

Located in the heart of Utah, Heber Valley is a hidden gem that offers a great mix of outdoor adventures, rich history, and family-friendly activities. Whether you’re after an adrenaline rush, a peaceful nature retreat, or a look into the region’s culture, Heber Valley has something for every traveler. Nestled between the Wasatch Mountains, the valley features stunning landscapes, charming small towns, and a range of attractions for all ages. From scenic train rides to hiking trails and from cultural venues to lakeside activities, Heber Valley is a must-visit destination in any season.

Scenic Train Rides: A Unique Experience on Heber Valley Railroad

One of the best ways to experience Heber Valley is on the Heber Valley Railroad, a heritage railway that runs year-round. The train journey through Provo Canyon offers some of the most beautiful views of the valley, including the majestic Mount Timpanogos, Cascade Mountain, and the sparkling Provo River. The ride itself is immersive; passengers can listen to the train’s whistle and take in the surrounding landscape as they relax.

For those wanting a touch of holiday magic, the Heber Valley Railroad offers special themed rides like the “Polar Express” during winter. This festive ride brings the classic holiday story to life with decorations, hot cocoa, and a visit from Santa, making it a favorite among families. Whether you enjoy breathtaking views in summer or the festive spirit in winter, the Heber Valley Railroad is a unique way to see the valley.

Outdoor Adventures: Soldier Hollow and Mirror Lake Highway

For those seeking outdoor fun, Heber Valley is a paradise. Soldier Hollow, located in the valley, offers a range of activities throughout the year. In winter, it becomes a great spot for cross-country skiing and tubing. During warmer months, it turns into a popular location for mountain biking and hiking. With its stunning views of the surrounding mountains and valleys, Soldier Hollow is perfect for outdoor enthusiasts to indulge in their favorite activities.

In addition to Soldier Hollow, Mirror Lake Highway is a scenic route that offers some of the best views in the area. This highway winds through the Wasatch Mountains and gives access to numerous alpine lakes, ideal for fishing, picnicking, or wildlife watching. The area is particularly beautiful in the fall when the leaves change colors and add vibrancy to the already picturesque landscape. Mirror Lake Highway is great for anyone wanting to experience Heber Valley’s natural beauty.

Cultural Experiences: Heber Amusement Hall and the Timpanogos Valley Theatre

Beyond its natural wonders, Heber Valley also has a rich cultural scene. One of the valley’s historic gems is the Heber Amusement Hall, a venue that has been a center for community events since 1908. The hall hosts the Timpanogos Valley Theatre, where visitors can enjoy local performances, plays, and musical productions that showcase the region’s artistic talent.

The Heber Amusement Hall reminds us of the valley’s deep-rooted history and its commitment to arts and culture. Whether you’re attending a theater production, a local concert, or a community event, the hall provides a great opportunity to engage with the local culture and enjoy the region’s creative spirit.

Family Fun: Deer Creek Reservoir and Heber City Park

Families looking for a fun day outdoors can head to Deer Creek Reservoir, located just outside of Heber City. The reservoir is popular for boating, fishing, and picnicking, offering a relaxing environment to spend a day by the water. Whether you’re renting a boat to explore the lake or just enjoying the shore, Deer Creek Reservoir is perfect for family getaways.

Heber City Park also offers plenty for families to relax and have fun. The park features playgrounds for children, sports fields for outdoor games, and walking paths for a stroll. It’s an ideal spot to spend a day with family, enjoying the fresh air and peaceful surroundings.

Conclusion: Heber Valley – A Place for Everyone

Heber Valley, Utah, is a destination that has something for everyone, regardless of interests or the season. From the scenic train rides on the Heber Valley Railroad to thrilling outdoor adventures at Soldier Hollow and Mirror Lake Highway, the valley is a year-round playground for all ages. With cultural richness found in the Heber Amusement Hall and relaxing family fun at Deer Creek Reservoir and Heber City Park, it’s clear why Heber Valley is an unforgettable destination.

Whether you seek adventure, relaxation, or a cultural experience, Heber Valley offers it all. Plan your visit today and immerse yourself in the beauty and charm of this hidden gem in Utah. With something for everyone, Heber Valley is waiting to be explored any time of the year.

(Source: Heber Valley Tourism, Heber Valley Railroad, Soldier Hollow, Mirror Lake Highway, Deer Creek Reservoir, Timpanogos Valley Theatre, Heber City Park)



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