• Hiked Today: 11.5 miles
  • Appalachian Trail (1,977.2 – 1,988.7)
• Total Hiked: 3,921.9 miles
• Total Paddled: 99.5 miles

Weather: 60-80°F, sunny with clouds, rain and thunder late afternoon, then clear 

Elevation: 1,577 – 4,120 feet

South Hwy 4 Dispersed Site to Poplar Ridge Shelter Sites

I felt quite accomplished to have gotten these 11.5 miles today. Going into today, it was particularly unknown how it would turn out. I schemed for a combined town resupply visit and return to trail to cover a challenging section. And, the forecast was iffy. So many different things could go awry. But here’s how it went down…

I had just a short hike down to Maine Route 4. There, I was surprised to find it didn’t look great for hitching. Based on comments, it seemed like folks had no problem getting rides, but I was seeing a winding and very fast road with little area for cars to pull off.

Welp, it didn’t matter what I thought, one of the first vehicles stopped for me, pretty much still in the road. Today it was Jackie, a 2020 (I think) AT hiker, who saved me. She was planning to do a trail run at the trailhead I popped out on, but went out of her way to bring me to the grocery store! So very kind. I offer cash for gas money and just to say thanks to every driver that stops for me, but so far on the AT nobody has accepted. 

I was charging my power bank outside the building super early, which was what I was hoping for. I needed to get a full charge on it again before heading back to trail. The store opened at 7:00 am and I was lined up waiting like folks used to (still do?) for Black Friday deals.

I hung out at the Rangeley IGA until 12:30 pm ish. Leaving, my pack had truly transformed into The Hulk again. To understand why, I think we need to take a look at this quote from the movie The Perfect Storm. I promise, it explains everything…

“Look, look at this. We got Hurricane Grace moving north off the Atlantic seaboard. Huge… getting massive. Two, this low south of Sable Island, ready to explode. Look at this. Three, a fresh cold front swooping down from Canada. But it’s caught a ride on the jet stream… and is motoring hell-bent towards the Atlantic. What if Hurricane Grace runs smack into it? Add to the scenario this baby off Sable Island, scrounging for energy. She’ll start feeding off both the Canadian cold front… and Hurricane Grace. You could be a meteorologist all your life… and never see something like this. It would be a disaster of epic proportions. It would be… the perfect storm.”

– Todd Gross (the TV meteorologist in the movie The Perfect Storm)

You could be a thru-hiker all your life and never see something like this. It would be a disaster of epic proportions! Dun, dun dun.

Ok, so for me… 1) the last stretch I felt I didn’t have enough and was doing some super rationing (didn’t want that to happen again), 2) I came into the store ravenously hungry (never a good idea), and 3) the store was a bit on the pricey side so I went for deals not thinking of weight (amateur mistake). There you go, the perfect storm. Maybe a stretch, but that’s where my brain went 🤦😅. As evidence, I submit that the bag of animal crackers I purchased was 1 lb in and of itself!

I also ate a massive amount of food at the store including this coffee flavored milk, which was very scrumptious (basically one of those Starbucks cold drinks), and nearly all of these four cinnamon rolls.

I got a ride back with a guy named Peter. He spotted me sitting next to the power outlet and was already bringing two other hikers back to trail, Pancakes and E.T. The timing was perfect, so I took him up on his kind offer.

Back up at the trailhead, those two guys started trekking, but I sat down to have lunch. Soon, a camper van pulled up. I had talked to the owner when down at the store. This was Angelica and her husband John is thru-hiking too and she’s scooting along in the van for support. Quite the demanding job, lots of logistics and then finding things to do in the meantime as well. She generously offered me some cherries and I ate my messy sub sandwich too. We had a nice chat. 

I got hiking at 1:30 pm. After crossing the road, I started down the wrong path, but thankfully figured it out quickly. Then, it was up and I certainly felt the return of the Hulk. The first 3 miles weren’t so bad, but after Eddy Pond, things went up to 4,120 feet Saddleback Mountain. I had been dreading the climb, but it wasn’t as gnarly as expected. Swampfoot and Pony Boy passed me by. They can really fly, particularly my on the uphill I’ve noticed. They just go!

There was a short side trail that was supposed to lead through a series of boulders and tunnels, similar to Mahoosuc Notch the other day. I wanted to check it out, but ended up taking the wrong side trail. It was short but very steep up and I got myself peeved a bit. I never did find the “caves” as they were called, but afterwards reflected that my little side trip was neat nonetheless. See, I found Mufasa’s Pride Rock and a little tunnel…

After Swampfoot and Pony Boy passed, I spotted some sunglasses in the middle of the trail. Usually with this kind of stuff I leave it or hang it up to be more visible. You never know if someone might return for it or which direction the owner had been going, north or south. I had a hunch these were one of those guys’ though, so carried them for when I’d see them next.

Going up, I started to get views looking back away from the mountain…

Off to what I thought of as southeast there were some particularly dark clouds coming closer to. They didn’t seem like they were going to hit; I thought I might miss the storm. Well, I’ve never been good at predicting things like this and when I was fully up in the alpine zone, I heard the the first round of thunder. Not great!

Although I still felt the main body of the storm was going to skim by, I got nervous and started speed hiking in hopes of getting up and over the top, down to the lower elevation saddle. The trail dips between Saddleback Mountain and the next mountain called, The Horn. There, I hoped there might be some tree cover. The peak just kept growing though. As the rain started spattering me sideways, my anxiousness grew with it, but I kept trudging in fast-walking mode.

The thing is, this mountain has a pretty lengthy exposed area. It reminded me of Moosilauke actually. And in better weather I would’ve taken my time and marveled at is magnificence. Today though, several more rounds of thunder sounded distantly as I continued overtop. Thankfully, after twenty minutes or so (?), it seemed like it was lessening and the rain too was becoming lighter.

I found Swampfoot and Pony Boy in the saddle, but by the time I reached them the sun was beginning to break back through again and we all felt safe to keep hiking. We walked some together, but I just couldn’t keep up with the youngins. It does seem like our bigger scale planned pace for the last chunk of the AT might be similar though, so might be seeing more of them.

I was pretty spent from trying to outrun the storm. I debated setting up early at a different camp than my goal, but ultimately kept going. At 7:15 pm, I arrived, once again being welcomed by Swampfoot and Pony Boy who were already set up haha. That’s when I remembered the glasses and found out they were indeed Pony Boys Oakley’s. 

Rather than sleep in the shelter, I moved on up the hill to some sites and made camp. It was a bit lumpy and I’m beginning to think there isn’t a place in Maine to tent without tree roots sticking up! Still, happy for any place to rest after another big day on trail 

Thanks for joining on the journey! It means a lot that you took the time to read up on these adventures. If you want to help kids get access to the outdoors, a cause that means a lot to me, please help me in supporting Outdoors Empowerment Network! The “Tip Author” button is a direct link to my fundraising page. Y’all are truly amazing. Thank you!

Luxury in Africa isn’t just about thread counts or plunge pools—it’s about storytelling, connection, and exclusive access to one-of-a-kind experiences. As a travel advisor, I’m always on the lookout for luxury safari lodges that blend adventure, indulgence, and authenticity. These properties aren’t on every “top 10” list—they’re whispered about amongst seasoned safari-goers and industry insiders. Here are four of Africa’s best hidden gems and why they belong on your radar.

Ol Jogi: Laikipia, Kenya

Ol Jogi isn’t exactly a lodge—it’s a 58,000-acre, 11-bedroom private sanctuary that guests have entirely to themselves. With an in-house team, private chefs, and access to rare wildlife encounters, this stay is the epitome of African exclusivity. It’s also one of the few places in Kenya where you can see the endangered Grévy’s zebra, black rhinos, white rhinos, and leopards all on the same game drive. Plus, with a salt lick and waterhole directly in front of the villa’s pool, wildlife will come right to you.

While on property, go on game drives, horseback safaris, helicopter rides over Mount Kenya, and conservation-focused experiences with on-site rangers and researchers. Evenings are for sunsets at private viewpoints and family-style feasts under the stars.

Insider Tip: Book at least four nights at Ol Jogi. The pace here is unhurried, and the activities are completely tailored to you, whether you’re celebrating a milestone, traveling with family, or just craving immersion in nature.

Noka Camp: Lapalala Wilderness, South Africa

Suspended dramatically above the Lephalala River, Noka Camp offers a front-row seat to the untouched beauty of the Lapalala Wilderness. This not-for-profit camp is entirely solar-powered and puts all proceeds toward the reserve’s conservation efforts. Wake up to panoramic views of the biodiverse Waterberg biosphere, where leopards roam and black rhinos track ancient paths. The reserve’s raw, remote terrain is home to a surprising diversity of wildlife, and you’ll likely have it all to yourself—the accommodation is private, and can host up to 12 guests.

Activities include twice-daily game drives, guided walking safaris, and stargazing from your own heated plunge pool. Between adventures, savor fine dining and wine pairings under the stars. Don’t miss the chance to learn about one of Africa’s most elusive mammals at the Pangolin Conservation and Research Centre, which Noka proudly supports.

Insider Tip: Each villa features a retractable glass floor for a one-of-a-kind view straight down to the river below—perfect for spotting wildlife while sipping your morning coffee.

Miavana: Nosy Ankao, Madagascar

Miavana, a private island accessible only by helicopter, is wildly remote, ecologically vital, and utterly transformative. Aside from relaxing on the serene beaches, there are some deep-diving, expedition-style adventures that can be launched from the property’s base on the mainland. Guests can mix land-based safari with marine adventure, where they will see lemurs, chameleons, and baobabs on land, and sea turtles, rays, and technicolor reefs underwater.

For activities, guests can go on forest treks with expert guides, go deep-sea fishing, or indulge in a spa treatment to the rhythm of the ocean. Evenings begin with champagne at the beach bar and end with gourmet dinners under the stars.

Insider Tip: Miavana is even better as a post-safari island getaway. Combine it with a mainland lodge for a dramatic contrast between bush and beach.

Kalepo Camp: Samburu, Kenya

Remote and culturally immersive, Kalepo is a rare jewel nestled at the base of the Mathews Range in northern Kenya. This family-owned, exclusive-use camp offers an intimate introduction to indigenous Samburu culture in its most authentic form. This area is also home to the rare “Samburu Special Five”: Grévy’s zebra, reticulated giraffe, Somali ostrich, gerenuk, and Beisa oryx. Birdlife is diverse and prolific here, and the landscapes—dry riverbeds, doum palms, and towering peaks—are pure cinematic beauty.

At Kalepo, each day is shaped by the goings-on in the local community, and many activities involve genuine cultural exchange with the Samburu people. Your stay could include participating in traditional Samburu warrior games or immersion into a manyatta, or settlement, where you might observe local blacksmiths at work or even witness festive ceremonies.

Insider Tip: Spend more time here than you think you need, and let the experience unfold around you. This is also the perfect home base from which to explore even more remote areas like Lake Turkana in Kenya’s wild north.

Chris Liebenberg is a member of Travel + Leisure’s A-List and specializes in Botswana and Namibia trips. You can create a tailor-made itinerary with Liebenberg by contacting him at [email protected]. 

Sunday, August 3, 2025