Governor Jishnu Dev Verma at the 55th convocation ceremony of Professor Jayashankar Telangana Agricultural University (PJTAU) in Hyderabad on Saturday.
| Photo Credit: SIDDHANT THAKUR

Chef Ricardo is in the city and will be showcasing his culinary expertise at Vetro at The Oberoi, Mumbai on August 2 and 3, and will then head to 360̊ at The Oberoi, New Delhi on August 7 and 8.

In an exclusive conversation with HT City, Chef Ricardo Chaneton talks about the similarities between Indian and Latin American cuisine and ingredients, along with the street food he wants to try, spices he’d like to cart home and the love for tradition that exists in both communities.

Here’s a snippet from the conversation:

Q: Interestingly, we’ve seen quite a few restaurants open in Mumbai and Delhi lately that are serving authentic Latin American food. Do you think this new-to-us cuisine will appeal to the Indian palate?

A: I believe there’s a natural curiosity and openness in the Indian palate that aligns beautifully with Latin American cuisine. Both cultures value bold flavours, layered spices, dishes and ingredients rooted in tradition, so there’s already an emotional and sensory connection. What’s exciting is that Latin American food is incredibly diverse, like the coastal ceviche from Peru, the earthy stews relished in Venezuela, and more. As more chefs begin to present it with authenticity and care, I think Indian diners will not only embrace it but also find unexpected familiarity within it and enjoy it.

Q: Have you noted any similarities in dishes, ingredients or cooking techniques between both cuisines?

A: It’s something I find quite fascinating, both Indian and Latin American cuisines are incredibly rich in tradition. I have noticed there are several similarities in the ingredients we use and the way they are used, for example, the use of spices and chillies to build complexity is central to both.

Latin American and Indian cuisines both hold chillies at the heart of their cooking, but what’s interesting is how both cultures use them not just for heat, but for depth, character, and nuance. In Latin America, especially in countries like Mexico and Peru, chillies like ají, Amarillo, guajillo, or ancho bring sweetness, fruitiness, smokiness, and floral notes. It is very much like how Kashmiri, Guntur, or Byadgi chillies are used in Indian cooking to build body, complexity and colour in a dish, and not just add spice.

I have also seen a love for slow cooking, whether it’s an Indian curry or a Venezuelan asado negro, time is treated as an ingredient. There are also parallels in the way we use native grains, pulses, and tropical fruits. What truly connects the two, though, is the way food is seen as a cultural expression— something that brings people together, tells stories, and honours heritage.

Q: What excites you about presenting your speciality of food to Indians? Do you plan on adapting any traditional Latin American ingredients or cooking techniques to the cities you will be cooking in?

What excites me is sharing a cuisine that’s deeply personal with diners who truly appreciate complexity and emotion in food. I believe that the Indian palate is incredibly sophisticated, and I see an opportunity for a meaningful dialogue between our culinary cultures. While I will stay true to my Latin American roots, I’m open to adapting through local ingredients, always with respect, never dilution.

During my time in India, the menus have been curated keeping in mind that the Indian palate is remarkably refined. I see a natural connection with Indian and Latin American flavours. I will be incorporating some local ingredients indigenous to both the cities I’m cooking in.

Q: For many Indians, American food is about burgers, while their knowledge about South American cuisine is limited to Tex-Mex food like nachos and tacos, which is the result of limited exposure. What would you like to tell people when it comes to trying this new cuisine?

A: It’s true that much of what’s known globally as “American food” is often limited to North American fast food, and Latin American cuisine tend to be reduced to Tex-Mex dishes like tacos, nachos or burritos. But in reality, Latin America is an incredibly diverse culinary landscape. It is rooted in indigenous traditions, colonial histories, and an abundance of native ingredients.

With that being said, what I would love for the Indian diners to discover the Latin American food’s depth, elegance and soul. It’s about storytelling, memory and a deep connection to land and culture. I hope the response is one of curiosity and openness. I’m not here to impress, I’m here to share something honest and meaningful.

Q: Can you tell us about a signature dish or a particular ingredient that you will be bringing to Mumbai and Delhi to showcase in your takeover?

A: One of the dishes I’m especially excited to present is a reinterpretation of the Mexican purple corn infladita, a dish we serve at MONO. For this menu, I’ve adapted it using a beautiful indigenous yellow corn from the hills around Shimla, as it has a distinct sweetness that brings a new expression to the dish, while staying true to its spirit. This isn’t a substitute but an adaptation that creates a dialogue between Latin America and India, grounded in respect and inspired by the area I’m cooking in.

Q: As you’ve spoken so highly about Indian food and the ingredients we use in everyday cooking, are there any street foods or spices you’re curious to try or take home?

A: India’s street food culture is legendary, and as a chef, it’s impossible not to be curious. I’m especially drawn to dishes like chaat and pani puri — the balance of spice, acidity, and texture is incredibly inspiring. I’m also very intrigued by Indian spices like black cardamom, amchur powder and hing. These are some ingredients I’d love to understand more deeply and perhaps even bring back with me

Q: Latin American food is vibrant, full of soul and community eating. However, with Michelin-starred dining, there is a certain poise involved. How do you balance authenticity with innovation while staying true to your roots?

A: That balance is at the heart of what we do at MONO. Latin American food is soulful, communal, and deeply rooted in memory—it’s how I grew up eating. But Michelin-starred dining calls for precision, clarity, and restraint. For me, it’s not about reinventing traditions, but elevating them without losing their soul. I work with the structure and refinement of French technique —something I learned over the years — but I use it to highlight the beauty of Latin American ingredients and stories. Every dish at MONO begins with something real and personal: a flavour from childhood, an ingredient from home or a story I want to tell. The innovation comes naturally when you’re being honest. That’s how I stay grounded —by always cooking from a place of truth.

Words by Kalpana Sunder

Papa’s is not your typical restaurant; it’s a cosy spot with a retro vibe, located right above the bustling Veronica’s Sandwich shop, reminiscent of a Singaporean shophouse. Set inside the warren of lanes that make up Bandra’s quirky Ranwar village, in Mumbai, India’s financial capital, the space used to be an old neighbourhood bakery called Jude’s, where freshly baked pao breads were lapped up by local residents.

The 12-seater restaurant helmed by chef Hussain Shazad, who honed his skills at New York’s Eleven Madison Park, is brought to life by the talented Hunger Inc team, behind popular establishments such as The Bombay Canteen, Bombay Sweet Shop, and O Pedro. The name Papa’s honours Shahzad’s mentor, the late chef Floyd Cardoz, who launched The Bombay Canteen. Since its opening, many international and Indian celebs have dined here, including pop sensation Dua Lipa and Indian cricketer Virat Kohli. The restaurant was listed on TIME’s annual list of the World’s Greatest Places 2025.

Chef Hussain describes the 13-course menu as ‘Indian in soul’ with influences from everywhere. The food ranges from Thayir saadam (curd rice) to caviar and everything in between. As Hussain puts it, he wanted to break free from the constraints of stuffy fine dining and create a space where lively conversations and relaxed meals could flourish.

Our evening began with a delightful array of mocktails and cocktails at the small bar area, accompanied by a tray of hors d’oeuvres – savoury renditions of traditional Indian sweets inspired by Bohri meals. Bebinca, a popular Goan dessert, was given a twist with celeriac, black truffle, and date, while the typical laddoo was reimagined with cashew and quince.

The cocktails were inventive, served by hipster bartenders in black, and garnished creatively, such as with chilli oil dropped from an ink filler. From the Sea Biscuit cocktail with Tanqueray Gin, clams, basil, and fennel, to Chaasmatazz with Hapusa Gin, carom, cumin, and Greek yogurt, the focus was on local ingredients with a twist. Non-drinkers were also catered to with a creative mocktail list, my favourite being the tangy Tom Yum Yum with lemongrass, kaffir lime, ginger, and honey.

We had the privilege of sitting around the chef’s table, which offered a bird’s eye view of the cooking station, dramatically lit like a stage. The intimate and immersive atmosphere felt like dining at chef Hussain’s home. The counter, upcycled from an old wooden bar top from The Bombay Canteen, added to the charm. Hand-blown lamps, rich wood accents, pastel wallpaper, and photos on the walls gave the space a cosy, living room vibe. There were whimsical touches everywhere, from fidget spinners with messages to a lovely pocketbook where guests could scribble, colour, or even do origami.

Throughout the evening, we listened to Hussain share his experiences and watched him and his team assemble dishes with precision and flair. The sizzle of frying, the clatter of crockery, and the opportunity to watch experts plate each dish like a work of art made the experience truly special. Chef Hussain’s background, from Chennai and his Bohri Muslim heritage to New York, influenced his culinary creations.

The meal began with a simple yet inventive patti samosa – stuffed with feta, spearmint, and pickled apple for vegetarians, and tuna for meat eaters. There were traditional steamed Indian dumplings called modak, filled with charsiu pork and green apple, and Tibetan Tingmo with blue cheese, king oyster mushroom, and pickled chilli for vegetarians.

The team worked in synchronised coordination, dishing out flavour bombs with Indian influences. My favourite dish of the 13-course dinner was Pootharekulu, deriving its inspiration from a traditional wafer-thin rice sheet sweet from Andhra Pradesh, served with a corn and citrus salad, pomelo, and tamarind chutney wrapped inside a thin rice sheet. It was tangy and fresh, reminiscent of a Vietnamese rice paper roll.

Chef Hussain’s reinvention of Thayir saadam (curd rice) with Spanish goat cheese, slow-cooked beetroot, and shiso leaf tempura showcased his ingenuity and commitment to flavour. There’s hard yak’s cheese from the Himalayan region called Chhurpi which is made into a creamy soup, and served with two kinds of potatoes from Assam, in the northeast.

What impressed me is that it’s not gimmicky food that fails to deliver. I was bowled over by the presentation of each dish, with unique cutlery and containers. The ingredients are sourced from across India, but rules are broken all the time with cheeky flair and panache.

The main course included a biryani influenced by Chennai, made in the style of a paella with aromatic Indrayani rice from Maharashtra, crisped at the bottom, paired with a smoked white pumpkin yogurt dip and brussels sprouts, with the non -vegetarians getting a seven-day dry-aged duck biryani.

The next course Bugs Bunny, featured wild rabbit from Nashik, grilled on charcoal, and served with a dried red ant marinade from Odisha, with crushed pepper, cumin, sumac, a bit of fresh ginger, garlic and chillies. The dessert was equally unusual – potato chips with lemon gelato, Champagne zabaglione, laced with honey, and inspired by children’s birthday parties, and an ice cream sandwich served in a small carton.

Papa’s is only open for dinner and reservations must be booked online. It’s can be challenge to secure a slot, with people trying for months to get a table, but it’s definitely worth the trouble!

Factbox

Papa’s is open from Wednesday to Saturday, and seats 12 diners a night.

The tasting menus are priced at INR 7000++ per person. This menu price does not include beverages.

Beverage Pairing: Wine Pairing: ₹ 5500/- (plus taxes) | Alcoholic Beverage Pairing: ₹ 4500/- (plus taxes) | Non-Alcoholic Beverage Pairing: ₹ 2750/- (plus taxes)

Address: Above Veronica’s, Waroda Rd, Ranwar, Bandra West, Mumbai. 
Phone: +91 77388 95597
Email: hello@papasbombay.com
Website: papasbombay.com