• Mountain Home B & B (off 972.7) to Front Royal Super 8 (off 972.7)
• 0 feet ascent, 0 feet descent 

A lot of hiker hostels include or offer breakfast as an option. In general, there are two camps. Camp 1 is a lumberjack model. Breakfast is hearty with tons of carbs, fat, and sugar. Camp 2 is a fresh model. That breakfast focuses on fresh foods that are hard to get on trail. 

Camp 1 breakfasts typically include towers of pancakes drowning in real butter and maple syrup. A Camp 2 hallmark is fresh fruit. Eggs are often served at both. Some breakfasts include both camps and are typically legendary: think Quarterway Inn or Woods Hole, and as we clearned today, Mountain Home B & B.

What Fruit Do You Not Eat?

Last night, well were instructed to select our entree for breakfast. I chose eggs with vegetables and cheese. The Historian selected an exotic pancake and egg entree. 

We were also asked the seemingly odd question, “What fruits do you not eat?” The rhetoric was a little strange, so it stuck in my mind. Both of us said there really were no fruits we didn’t eat. 

When we arrived for breakfast, prior to our entree arriving, we were presented with tea, coffee, juice and an astonishing fresh fruit plate. I was so excited, I forgot to snap a photo to share with you until I had eaten well over half of the offering. Imagine twice as much as you see in the photo! 

After the fruit, our entrees arrived. They were delicious and piping hot. In addition to my fruit and eggs, I was treated to high quality, plain Greek yogurt (in top right of photo). 

Packing Up

Our hosts had received a resupply package for our last Virginia segment. I was too hot and tired to deal with it last night so this morning we took it on. 

Our process usually includes The Historian sorting food and me inventorying and placing it into our IAGB approved bear bags. We have gotten pretty fast at the job so it was not too tiresome. 

Hiker Stink and Dryer Sheets

In addition to our food resupply, we had beautifully washed clothes. They had gotten unscented soap just for us so our clothes didn’t smell of hiker stink or grocery store perfume. 

As it turned out, the laundry soap that the hostel used was not chemically manufactured scents, but fairly light, natural ones so we would have been OK without the special unscented soap but it was very kind. 

In the Rockies, where we live, we jokingly call freshly washed day hikers “dryer sheets.” It is a little sarcastic, but is not meant unkindly.

When we are hiking, we often smell laundry soap scents well ahead of hearing or seeing other hikers. Occasionally, someone will pass us drowned in perfume but those are usually people where one member of the couple is reluctantly following the other during their “outdoor adventure vacation.”

Mostly, we smell the laundry scents they advertise on television. You know the kind, the actor presses their nose into a pile of laundry and the voice over says, “Smells fresh up to 6 weeks after washing.”

What people who don’t live around grizzly bears rarely consider is that the soap elixirs are usually food based. Here comes a hiker marinated in fresh lemon lime with a hint of peach. We imagine the bears nodding wisely at each other trying to decide which flavor hiker they most desire. 

Transferring to Front Royal Super 8

The hostel was going to be closed for a family event so we organized to transfer to the Super 8 downtown. After packing our food and fresh, unscented clothes into our packs, we got a ride to town from the hostel owners. 

The Library of Congress

Since it was still early, our room was not yet ready. We had a delightful conversation with the front desk clerk about the history of the Library of Congress. It turns out she was a history buff with loads of knowledge. She and The Historian kept the threads of the conversation going for two days. 

After about 10 minutes of listening to these two avid history people go on about its establishment and the impact of the War of 1812, I excused myself to go work on the blog. 

What I heard was that Congress wanted a resource library they could consult as they wrote laws. The library was established in the year 1800 with a $5000 approtiation. During the war of 1812, the British attacked Washington and the Library was burned when they burned the Capital. 

To rebuild the collection, the Library purchased Thomas Jefferson’s personal library of 6487 books for $23,950 in 1815. 

After selling his collection to Congress for the good of the cause, Jefferson discovered he could not live without books and so he built a third collection (his original library burned). This library is housed in Monticello and still offers research opportunities to scholars. 

Into Our Room and Out for Food

We got into our room around 1 and dumped our packs. Hunger was floating around. We decided to walk to the grocery store and procure food to top off our resupply and for town.

On the way to the store, we spotted rhe Chinese resturant we had desired to order from the night before, when it was closed. We made an on the fly decision to eat then get more food at the grocery store. Perfect hiker hunger logic. 

The buffet appeared a little spare when we first assessed it. What we didn’t understand was that the owners placed out small amounts of freshly prepared food every few minutes rather than fill a buffet and let it sit. 

My it was good! I worked for 5 weeks in China in 1992. This was the closest to real Chinese food I have eaten in the USA. Some of the dishes were Americanized, but a few were more like I remember the food in China.

Just like this morning, I didn’t get a good photo since I was too busy eating. 

Grocery Shopping

Stuffed to the gills, we headed to the grocery store. I was glad to have a cart to hang on to so I could keep my balance with my stuffed belly proceeding me. 

The Historian agonized over which fresh fruit bowl he wanted. Melons or berries? With sorrow, he finally put a package of mixed cut melon in the cart. As we went across the produce section, we spotted a mixed melon bowl with berries in it. Hallelujah!

We thoughtfully selected salad to go with our fruit. To that we added freshly baked sourdough and some blue cheese. I also got a quart of plain yogurt. We were proud of our thoughtful purchases. Maybe being stuffed when we arrive at the store kept us on track.

Just Chilling

By the time we got back to the hotel, we had put in an active 10 hour day. Town chores are notoriously harder than the average hiking day. For card carrying introverts like us, all the visiting with others at hostels are enormous fun but also exhausting. 

In our lonely, quiet, private hotel room, we closed the door and put our feet up and rested. Then we ate some more. Breakfast is a long time off.

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Day 29

Yahoo!!
Yippie!!
Hurray!!!

Almost fell into a creek within .3 of the start of my day! Hulked my way back onto the log and walked the rest of the way across! My left leg was in the water up to my thigh! Adrenaline pumping!!!
Whole situation just made me feel so strong, and incredibly alive. 

Creek crossings today were some of the most intense on the trail so far, but nothing I felt uncomfortable doing on my own. 
Went across this big, beautiful plateau with panoramic views, and as I walked across I had the constant companion of the wind, stronger than usual. Hair and clothes and backpack straps all whipping in the wind.

All of this was my preamble to FORESTER PASS! Several snow fields, a bit of losing the trail, and relocating it. My little mantra became “Don’t die, locate the trail, put body on trail. Repeat as necessary.”

I eventually made it to the final push and waited for Bubbles to catch up to climb together. Half a dozen or so other hikers all filtered water and gathered at the bottom before the final ascent. 
Up was relatively easy, almost no snow. The view at the top was just STUNNING. Then the descent involved several long stretches of snow fields with boot pack that we carefully placed each step in. It wasn’t overwhelmingly frightening, but I wasn’t quite underwhelmed by the challenge either. We decided we were thoroughly “whelmed” by it. Goldilocks amount of fear and focus. 

To make today even better, we heard tale of some trail magic at the bottom of the downhill in the valley, despite there being no road to access the area. Lo and BEHOLD, a group of trail angles arranged for HUNDREDS of pounds of cheese, tortillas, sausage, Nutella, and a whole lot more out to this campsite. Apparently they do it every year, and in an EXCELLENT location, because by this point in our resupply, everyone is STARVING. One of the best trail magic experiences I’ve ever had, with so many of my friends around. 
Unfortunately, it was also the coldest night so far, and dipped down below freezing. Did my best to stay warm in my 30 degree quilt.

Some days make you feel like everything you did to get here was worth it. All the jobs, saving money and hard work to even be in California, hiking this trail. Today was one of those days. Views, challenge, friends, trail magic.
Chef’s kiss, universe. 

Day 30

“It’s the too huge world vaulting us- and it’s goodbye, but we lean forward to the next crazy venture beneath the skies”

Started the day early and accessed Bishop via Kearsarge pass. One of the trail angels from the night before gave me and a friend a ride all the way to the Subway in town. The place I’d been dreaming of all morning. I recited my order as I powered up and over the beautiful panoramic pass, past alpine lakes and snow and wildflowers.

 
“Italian herb and cheese, double rotisserie chicken, double provolone, double toasted. Lettuce, tomato, bell pepper. 
BBQ sauce and so much honey mustard, it’s dripping down the sides. 
Baked lays, coke no ice.”

After satisfying my immense hunger, I went to this super lovely hostel in town where I’m staying for the night. Bunks with curtains, awesome shower, laundry, common spaces, big hiker box. Most importantly, walking distance from Taco Bell. 
Lots of hikers here, great vibes, decent prices. A well deserved rest and reset after the last stretch in the Sierra.

Day 31

“The pain of discipline is less than the pain of regret”

Officially one month in!

To celebrate (and also because no one can stop me), I started the day with a Taco Bell feast that took about 2 hours to polish off. I wanted to place my order right as they opened at 8, but I politely waited until about 8:25 before dropping $30, and finishing every last bite.

Not long after, I hitched back to Independence to visit the post office. My missing bear canister with my 10 degree quilt was finally located after a great deal of heartache this last week or so, and is now being forwarded to Mammoth Lakes. Thank goodness.

With my resupply picked up, and the lost mail found, I headed across the street to the gas station and cracked a tall boy of Twisted Tea. Had some drinks and shot the shit with Banquet, who I’d met in Kennedy Meadows. We teamed up to hitch back to Bishop, where I decided to take a zero.

Got dropped off at McDonald’s, hit up the gear shop, and befriended a local climber. He showed me the world famous buttermilk boulders just outside of town, that I’ve seen Reel Rock documentaries about. So epic.

Kearsarge Pass

Day 32  

Left Bishop with a belly full of food, a bear canister stuffed to the brim with a seven day resupply, clean clothes, and a shower. 
What more can you ask for?

8 miles up and over Kearsarge Pass again, camped at the intersection of the side trail and PCT. 

Bubbles on the north side of Forester Pass!

Day 33

“I love suffering. It brings me so close to god.”

Longgg day, pack feeling heavy. Seven days of food, trying to carry light water. Mosquitos 🦟 were miserable today, doubled down on deet. Had bad, emergency 💩. Probably too much Taco Bell.

Things I’m grateful for- hearing from Andy early today. Having the perfect amount of snacks. Deet. Friends and company, new and old. Rice crispy treats. My sun umbrella. A body that can hike, and a mind that can keep pushing when I’m exhausted.
Thankful for my tent, for keeping the bugs out, providing shelter. My quilt for keeping me mostly warm, and my clothes doing the rest of the job so I can sleep through the night.

Grateful for plentiful water sources, and for making it across each creek today by jumping from rocks and logs, and never getting my feet more than a little wet. Especially considering there were at least half a dozen of those types of crossings.
I’m grateful for going to bed early, which I’ll be doing here in a few minutes.

And most of all, I’m grateful to be hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. To be in the Sierra. To be healthy and strong and capable of doing this. To have worked so hard to save the money for this trip. For being so committed to this goal.

Things I am less grateful for- Clouds of bugs so thick you have to hold your breath as you pass through them, or else risk inhaling them. Having to hike breathing through my teeth, so I don’t choke on a bug again, like yesterday. Sunglasses having to stay on, not for the sun, but to shield your eyes from the winged invaders. 

By this point, I have agreed to the terms and conditions of deet. Give me the cancer, destroy my gear, melt my plastics. Just please, please keep these suckers off of me. I’m begging.

You think you’ve covered every last square inch of yourself, and then they bite behind your ears. Your cheeks. Your armpits. Your ass, every time you have to stop to pee. Even coated in deet, stopping to sit means being descended upon by a blood thirsty swarm.  
Nightmare, nightmare, nightmare.

Day 34

“Pain nourishes courage.”

I get it; the point of suffering out here is to learn true appreciation. Mosquitoes worse than you’ve ever experienced driving you NUTS? So grateful for the bug net. Starving all the time? REALLY enjoy that Nutella. It’s astounding the lengths I will go to to clean out every last lick of Nutella.

Feet hurt? Be mind-blown by this magnificent campsite! This is one of, if not the most beautiful campsite I’ve ever gotten to stay at. 
You learn the true value of a text from your partner, or having enough phone power to listen to music and audiobooks. Of eating until you’re actually full.

That being said, today was pretty rough for me mentally, and I was very emotional at the end of the day. 

Climbed Pinchot pass this morning. Had really low blood pressure, and was slow on the hiking all day. Downhill after Pinchot, I started to catch a groove, and then while admiring the incredible beauty, I trip.

Right foot hits rock, right knee hits ground HARD, and pack shoot’s up over my head and I stumble forward. Somehow, miraculously, my left foot catches me with my face dangerously close to the ground, but I’m still off balance. I then run/ stumble several long, crazy steps to catch myself before coming to a stop standing up.

Looking back, there was a DENT in the gravel where my knee slammed down. Looking at my knee, a few scrapes and imbedded pieces of gravel. But thankfully, I didn’t go face first into the rocks. 

Took a lunch break by an alpine lake with the girls I met hitchhiking out of Independence, and Bespoke also joined us. I took a quick skinny dip into the snow melt water, and then made my mashed potatoes and bbq pulled pork packet. A little pick me up after what was almost a really painful fall.
 
Hiked the rest of the way to the bottom of the valley, and at one point twisted my ankle and fully fell. Later, swatting at a bug on my face- trekking pole hits rocks- trekking pole punches me in the jaw. Earbud goes flying. The trail is literally taking swings at me today, like it’s trying to pick a fight.

Made it about 11 miles today in all. Had a full blown menty B at camp when Bubbles, who had been behind me, passed me at my campsite. As she was planning on averaging over 20 miles a day for over a week, it’s likely I won’t catch up with her again.

So so so many people passed me today, and I feel like I’m not as strong as I “should” be. I’ve been going the same pace as some men in their 70s the last couple days. That’s so disheartening.

Here’s to feeling all my feelings, even the ones that aren’t particularly pleasant. And here’s to tomorrow being a better day!

And quite frankly- how am I supposed to get any hiking done when everything is so incredibly beautiful ?? I look up in awe for ONE SECOND and I nearly break my face on the ground. I mean come ON. 

Day 35

“Left, right, left, right, left, right, left, right..”

Sometimes you have to override your mind. The body is capable, but the mind holds you back. Today it’s been a strong focus on left, right, left, right.
Left, this is hard, right, I can’t do this, left, when is the uphill over, right, Canada is so far, left, just focus on the next step.” 

With the hours upon hours of walking meditation, I’ve become extra contemplative today. This is some of my inner dialogue while going about my business today. 

Bite. Chew. Taste. Swallow. Where did the berries and the nuts and seeds come from? The soil, the sun, the rain. Nutrients of decaying plants, bugs and animals. Cycle goes on and on.

Standing in the creek. Contemplating sunshine melting snow, becoming the water washing over my feet. The snow storm that put it there in the first place. 

Breathing in. Breathing out. Walking.

Expectations. They’re why we get so unhappy. Expect to walk far, walk fast, not fall. So when we’re slow, we tire too fast, we stumble, there is suffering. Wanting life to be other than it is. That’s suffering.

Hike as a cork flows down a stream- once you begin to force the walking, the whole thing falls apart. 

Expectations for this hike- it’s not any of the others I’ve done before. Release yourself from the grasp of expectations. Simply be. Experience. Relax. Mosquitos annoying? Good. Another aspect of the nameless. 

——————

Did a big day to make up for yesterday. Going to try for another big day tomorrow. Walking toward the promise of warm food, maybe a whole rotisserie chicken or another big subway sandwhich, or a ton of Taco Bell or McDonald’s or Dominos, or literally anything. So hungry.

Thanks for reading! If you’ve been following along, you’ll notice I’ve been falling behind on these posts. Trail life is so busy and exhausting. Even town days are hardly restful with all those chores! More to come ~ sooner or later. 

Monday, July 28, 2025