Destinations & Things To Do
Alternates and Altruism on the CDT in Montana
Less Water, More PUDs
Halfway through the section of trail between the towns of Augusta and Elliston, the abundant water sources we’d been enjoying (read: taking for granted) throughout Glacier and The Bob mysteriously disappeared. Sources were suddenly scarce, becoming fewer and further between.
Water became a commodity we actually had to think about and plan our days around. I didn’t expect this until the “desert” sections of the trail. When you research the areas with the little water and thus long water carries on the CDT you’ll probably come across places in New Mexico and The Basin in Wyoming. I don’t remember reading anything about Montana.
Perhaps 2025 is just a particularly dry year in this state. Even bodies of water marked with the full water droplet waypoint symbol in FarOut (indicating a reliable source) have been dry this year. We have been told by locals that it’s currently in a drought status. This is likely due to, at least in part, the lower than average snowfall over this past winter.
Regardless of cause, the reality was that we were facing upwards of 15-20 miles between reliable water sources. And we were only hiking the same range of miles per day. That meant potentially carrying water from one night’s camp to the next. To make matters worse, the elevation profile through this section was far from easy, and full of PUDs (pointless ups and downs). More PUDs = more exertion = more hydration needed.
How did we combat these obstacles?
Flescher Pass Cache
First we got lucky with some impeccably timed trail magic. Two backpacker locals in the Lincoln area, Crusty Phil and Tinkerbell, maintain a cache of water and other goodies in the bear box at Flescher Pass. You never want to 100% rely on caches since you have no way of knowing for sure whether they are currently stocked. We had a backup plan to collect at an off-trail water source, but hoped we’d save our legs the extra half mile and be able to fill up at the cache.
As luck would have it, just as we got down to the pass we ran into none other than Crusty Phil and Tinkerbell in the flesh. They told us they had not only restocked the water cache, but left exactly three soft drinks there as well. This was amazing news to three hot and sweaty hikers about to enter a dry spell.
When we arrived at the pass and opened the bear box we found two Olipops and a Spindrift, still cold, a bonus treat of Little Debbie Honey Buns, and a bounty of water. Plenty to get us to our dry camp, through dinner, breakfast, and on to the next day’s reliable source. We were very grateful that these trail angels go out of their way to maintain the cache that made our day much easier and more enjoyable.
The Llama Alt
Another way we dealt with the lack of on-trail water was to not take the trail. The CDT is a journey of many alternate routes and it’s widely accepted and encouraged to take them as needed or wanted. It’s all about choosing your own adventure. The area we were in has an unofficial alternate commonly referred to by thru hikers as the “Llama Alt.” As its name implies, the route passes by a ranch that has llamas, among other farm animals.
The ranch is a property owned by a husband and wife and is primarily a hostel geared towards bike packers who are cycling the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. The GDMBR is essentially the biking equivalent of the CDT. It traverses about 2700 miles from Banff, Canada to the New Mexico-Mexico border along the Continental Divide, and is allegedly the longest unpaved bike route in the world.
Our main intention taking the Llama Alt wasn’t to visit the ranch, but rather that the road paralleled and crossed more creeks than the red line (the official CDT route) and there was a much gentler grade and far fewer PUDs. We had heard rumors of trail magic of an unspecified variety at the llama ranch, which was only an added bonus for our purposes.
Unsure of whether or not camping was possible there, we figured we’d stop in, see what the place was about, then be on our way to stealth camp somewhere down the road. In a then-unknown manifestation, The Show said, “maybe we can ask and they’ll know of a place 5 miles or so down the road we can camp.”
After a lengthy gravel and dirt roadwalk hiding under our umbrellas from the beating sun, we arrived at the llama ranch. The trail magic included a mini fridge on the porch stocked with sodas, beer, and cold cut sandwiches. I chose a turkey one that also had cheese, mustard, and sweet pickles on mutigrain bread. It hit the spot after 18 miles of hiking.
This umbrella has been one of my favorite pieces of gear during this hike. Makes sunny roadwalking much more bearable.
Pay it Forward
Shortly after arriving, we met one of the owners of the property, John. He gave us a brief spiel about the place, saying that they operate entirely free of charge and with a “pay it forward” philosophy. They do not even accept donations, believing they are better put to use out in the world. For example, paying for someone’s groceries in the line behind you would be a way to pay it forward. The ultimate goal, explained John, was to make the world a better place.
We asked about a place to camp a little ways away, and he mentioned he has a friend 5 miles down the road with a property he allows hikers to camp on. The Show, Free Samples, and I looked at each other in kismetic disbelief as we recalled what Show had said earlier. It was totally manifested.
The Not-So-Romantic Cabin
We did not, however, walk those extra five miles, but instead decided to stay at the ranch. Just past the llama hut were a bunch of tiny cabins and bunkhouses. Free Samples slept in a pink covered wagon. John offered The Show and I the cabin he said he reserved for romantic couples, a small cottage with lofted double bed and front porch. We gladly accepted but unfortunately it was more whimsical than practical.
Planning to get up by 4am to beat the heat on our next day’s road walk, we settled down in the loft bed to sleep by 9pm. It was still light out and the thermostat in the cabin read 86 degrees. After 20 minutes of trying, we concluded it was just too hot to fall asleep in there, and decided to cowboy camp on the porch instead. Heat problems solved, we settled in again, only to see a mouse run across the porch by our pillows.
That was the start to a restless night of paranoia that mice were crawling over us. Real or imagined, it prevented me from sleeping well. At around 3am I’m positive I felt a mouse scurrying at the foot of my quilt and jerked awake. Both awake, we decided soon after to pack up and leave. It was the worst night’s sleep on trail yet.
The Elliston Direttissima, or, The Dog Creek Alt
By 5am we were road walking again, this time an alternate of our own making. Realizing the town of Elliston was only 27 road miles away, we decided to stick to the roads instead of rejoining the trail and get there that much faster. We’d been out for seven days at this point and were more than ready for some town time ASAP. Plus, the red line was still looking dry and PUD-y in the area. We called the route the “Elliston Direttissima” as well as the “Dog Creek Alt” because it took the most direct path to town and followed a creek by that name for a portion of it.
Sunrise from our roadwalk out of the llama ranch. This dandelion was the size of my palm. They don’t make ’em that big back east.
Along our alt we passed through a lot of cattle farmland and saw more black and brown cows than we could count. Some were timid and ran away from us into the trees. Others were disgruntled we were in their fields and mooed at us repeatedly.
Yucky Water
The roadside water situation turned out to be less abundant than we hoped. Creeks that are usually flowing were dry, or running directly through cow fields with cow pies on their banks. One spring we passed had a cow actively drinking from the trough so we didn’t bother to compete.
At one point our best option was what looked like some kind of irrigation line, a pipe emerging horizontally from the ground with a muddy crater surrounding it. It was certainly gross-looking, but was clear, cold, and tasted fine after we filtered it. I’m sure we’ll experience much worse down in New Mexico.
When we got to our planned stealth camp by the train tracks on Elliston Eve, we were elated to discover the nearby creek was flowing. We hadn’t been positive it would be. Not only was there running water, but enough to bathe in. We must have been a sight for the conductors of the multiple freight trains passing through to witness.
All and all, I’ll admit this leg was tough and not one of my favorites. But the selfless kindness of strangers and the freedom to create our own path helped make it a little easier.
- Mountain Home B & B (off 972.7) to Front Royal Super 8 (off 972.7)
- 0 feet ascent, 0 feet descent
A lot of hiker hostels include or offer breakfast as an option. In general, there are two camps. Camp 1 is a lumberjack model. Breakfast is hearty with tons of carbs, fat, and sugar. Camp 2 is a fresh model. That breakfast focuses on fresh foods that are hard to get on trail.
Camp 1 breakfasts typically include towers of pancakes drowning in real butter and maple syrup. A Camp 2 hallmark is fresh fruit. Eggs are often served at both. Some breakfasts include both camps and are typically legendary: think Quarterway Inn or Woods Hole, and as we clearned today, Mountain Home B & B.
What Fruit Do You Not Eat?
Last night, well were instructed to select our entree for breakfast. I chose eggs with vegetables and cheese. The Historian selected an exotic pancake and egg entree.
We were also asked the seemingly odd question, “What fruits do you not eat?” The rhetoric was a little strange, so it stuck in my mind. Both of us said there really were no fruits we didn’t eat.
When we arrived for breakfast, prior to our entree arriving, we were presented with tea, coffee, juice and an astonishing fresh fruit plate. I was so excited, I forgot to snap a photo to share with you until I had eaten well over half of the offering. Imagine twice as much as you see in the photo!
After the fruit, our entrees arrived. They were delicious and piping hot. In addition to my fruit and eggs, I was treated to high quality, plain Greek yogurt (in top right of photo).
Packing Up
Our hosts had received a resupply package for our last Virginia segment. I was too hot and tired to deal with it last night so this morning we took it on.
Our process usually includes The Historian sorting food and me inventorying and placing it into our IAGB approved bear bags. We have gotten pretty fast at the job so it was not too tiresome.
Hiker Stink and Dryer Sheets
In addition to our food resupply, we had beautifully washed clothes. They had gotten unscented soap just for us so our clothes didn’t smell of hiker stink or grocery store perfume.
As it turned out, the laundry soap that the hostel used was not chemically manufactured scents, but fairly light, natural ones so we would have been OK without the special unscented soap but it was very kind.
In the Rockies, where we live, we jokingly call freshly washed day hikers “dryer sheets.” It is a little sarcastic, but is not meant unkindly.
When we are hiking, we often smell laundry soap scents well ahead of hearing or seeing other hikers. Occasionally, someone will pass us drowned in perfume but those are usually people where one member of the couple is reluctantly following the other during their “outdoor adventure vacation.”
Mostly, we smell the laundry scents they advertise on television. You know the kind, the actor presses their nose into a pile of laundry and the voice over says, “Smells fresh up to 6 weeks after washing.”
What people who don’t live around grizzly bears rarely consider is that the soap elixirs are usually food based. Here comes a hiker marinated in fresh lemon lime with a hint of peach. We imagine the bears nodding wisely at each other trying to decide which flavor hiker they most desire.
Transferring to Front Royal Super 8
The hostel was going to be closed for a family event so we organized to transfer to the Super 8 downtown. After packing our food and fresh, unscented clothes into our packs, we got a ride to town from the hostel owners.
The Library of Congress
Since it was still early, our room was not yet ready. We had a delightful conversation with the front desk clerk about the history of the Library of Congress. It turns out she was a history buff with loads of knowledge. She and The Historian kept the threads of the conversation going for two days.
After about 10 minutes of listening to these two avid history people go on about its establishment and the impact of the War of 1812, I excused myself to go work on the blog.
What I heard was that Congress wanted a resource library they could consult as they wrote laws. The library was established in the year 1800 with a $5000 approtiation. During the war of 1812, the British attacked Washington and the Library was burned when they burned the Capital.
To rebuild the collection, the Library purchased Thomas Jefferson’s personal library of 6487 books for $23,950 in 1815.
After selling his collection to Congress for the good of the cause, Jefferson discovered he could not live without books and so he built a third collection (his original library burned). This library is housed in Monticello and still offers research opportunities to scholars.
Into Our Room and Out for Food
We got into our room around 1 and dumped our packs. Hunger was floating around. We decided to walk to the grocery store and procure food to top off our resupply and for town.
On the way to the store, we spotted rhe Chinese resturant we had desired to order from the night before, when it was closed. We made an on the fly decision to eat then get more food at the grocery store. Perfect hiker hunger logic.
The buffet appeared a little spare when we first assessed it. What we didn’t understand was that the owners placed out small amounts of freshly prepared food every few minutes rather than fill a buffet and let it sit.
My it was good! I worked for 5 weeks in China in 1992. This was the closest to real Chinese food I have eaten in the USA. Some of the dishes were Americanized, but a few were more like I remember the food in China.
Just like this morning, I didn’t get a good photo since I was too busy eating.
Grocery Shopping
Stuffed to the gills, we headed to the grocery store. I was glad to have a cart to hang on to so I could keep my balance with my stuffed belly proceeding me.
The Historian agonized over which fresh fruit bowl he wanted. Melons or berries? With sorrow, he finally put a package of mixed cut melon in the cart. As we went across the produce section, we spotted a mixed melon bowl with berries in it. Hallelujah!
We thoughtfully selected salad to go with our fruit. To that we added freshly baked sourdough and some blue cheese. I also got a quart of plain yogurt. We were proud of our thoughtful purchases. Maybe being stuffed when we arrive at the store kept us on track.
Just Chilling
By the time we got back to the hotel, we had put in an active 10 hour day. Town chores are notoriously harder than the average hiking day. For card carrying introverts like us, all the visiting with others at hostels are enormous fun but also exhausting.
In our lonely, quiet, private hotel room, we closed the door and put our feet up and rested. Then we ate some more. Breakfast is a long time off.
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Destinations & Things To Do
Vietnam Is Now Top Budget Friendly Travel Destinations in Southeast Asia, Joining Laos, Cambodia, Malaysia, Indonesia, and Thailand: Here’s What You Should Know
Monday, July 28, 2025
Vietnam has held onto its status in the top 10 world’s best-value country in Southeast Asia on a For a budget traveler, Vietnam is so hot Time Out chose it for their lays of the decade. With its vibrant street food culture, competitively priced accommodation and full-bodied immersion in a vigorous culture, Vietnam is one of the best places to travel for when you’re on a budget. Time Out’s list celebrated Vietnam’s incredible value for Westerners (along with many other affordable Asian destinations), but threw them all in together for Vietnam to account for anybody on a budget!
Affordable Meals and Accommodation
Exploring the incredible food is one of the best reasons to travel to Vietnam. Budget-minded foodies will delight in the delicious pho (Vietnamese noodle soup) and banh mi (Vietnamese sandwich) that cost anything from barely under USD1. And what may come as no surprise to those who live there, the country is also renowned for dirt-cheap beer, with locals being able to get their hands on a pint of it for a mere 80p, the Omio research found.
For those searching for a cheap room or hostel, budget travellers will be spoilt for choice. Basic hotel style dorms and guesthouses can be found from just GBP2.30 a night. These rates will also make it possible for visitors to try out more of what the country has to offer without anyone breaking the bank.
Cheap Mass Transit and Cultural Activities at Low Prices
Vietnam’s other modes of transportation are still incredibly cheap, though. Buses Not nearly as slick as Hanoi’s, but most routes go via the city centre and a ride is rarely over 20p (and often well under). Motorcycle taxis (xe ôm) As above, but you will also be able to cover end-to-end of the city. It is what makes the rest of the country accessible and affordable. For those who are visiting Vietnam to discover the culture, it is surrounded with everything from temples to museums to provide free admission to the wonders of the country’s history and heritage.
Vietnam does offer several must-see sights as well, but the majority are very affordable to enter. The Marble Mountains at Danang ‒ a tourist hot-spot ‒ is just GBP1.20 entry. Elsewhere in central Vietnam, the Ba Na Hills, slightly more costly at GBP1.20 to get in, is a quirkier visit. ‘You can get water puppet shows – a traditional Vietnamese cultural experience – for about £3.
Adventures of a Budget Traveler in Vietnam
Travel writers, including Lola Méndez who has spent the last five consecutive years travelling through Southeast Asia, have highlighted Vietnam’s appeal to travellers on a tighter budget. Before I put the next 3 years in and out, she says she discovered Vietnam as somewhere she could do something she could never afford to do when travelling. Carli Korik, who runs the group Girls Who Travel, said that she had spent GBP6.30 a day on street food, GBP3 to see a traditional water puppet show and GBP23 for a train ticket from Hanoi to Hue.
Korik’s findings suggest that for Vietnam, at least, luxury travel need not be the domain of the monied classes. There’s so many rich cultural things to do, such as street food, that is really cheap and it is so fun that you can visit Vietnam without even having to spend much money,” she said.
Vietnam vs Other Budget Destinations
It is not only Vietnam that is highly affordable (they are one of the cheapest countries to visit in Southeast Asia) you will find some others as well. Laos, Cambodia, Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand are also on Time Out’s list, with Southeast Asia ranking as a prime destination for budget travelers.
Singapore and Timor-Leste, by comparison, are believed to be expensive in the region. This isn’t ideal if you’re a traveller on a budget, as the cost of accommodation, food and attractions in these countries tends to be higher.
Useful budget Travel Tips for Vietnam All Below advice and tips is based on our actual living in Hanoi, not only tourist information and the comments of some Vietnamese friends.
This is what makes eating street food in Vietnam so amazing; the food is great and incredibly cheap – many dishes from street vendors go for a dollar or less.
Public transport is cheap as chips; the bus costs less than US$0.40 and moto-taxis even less than US$0.80 a ride.
Access to most cultural experiences (temples, museums and so on) can be had free or nearly so.
With cheap beer, affordable accommodations and transport available for backpackers, even those on a budget can have a posh vacation experience.
Vietnam For those who dream of visiting Southeast Asia, Vietnam is a good value for budget travelers, is even cheaper than the above destinations in this list.
This morning I got up bright and early and was hiking right at 5:30 AM. There had been a couple tents nearby where I was set up, so I was as quiet as I could be. It felt nice to be walking really early this morning. Lately it seems like I just can’t manage to get out of camp before 5:45 AM. Though I was motivated by the idea of getting to Sonora pass as quickly as possible today.
When I left camp, I only had about 11 miles to go to get to the highway where I can hitch a ride into Kennedy Meadows North. The morning began with a long but very gradual climb. I could see the switchbacks off in the distance and I knew exactly where the trail would be taking me. It was such an incredible start to the day and as I climbed to the top of that first mountain, I was able to watch a beautiful sunrise. Unlike a lot of the mountain passes recently, this one was completely bald and exposed. It was pretty windy up top but not too bad. It just felt like the perfect way to start off the day.
Once I got on top of the mountain, I just rode along the ridge for the next handful of miles. Every now and then I would drop down a bit and climb back up. I wound up walking past a guy going southbound and went by one PCT hiker who was going north. But I didn’t stop off for anything and just continued along the trail.
Then the last few miles of the morning were basically all downhill until I reached the road. Of course, every now and then the trail had to sneak in a cheeky little climb. But overall, it was a really nice and easy morning. I was also walking past loads of bright, beautiful, wildflowers. The pinks, oranges, purples, and blues, almost don’t look like they should exist in nature. It was absolutely incredible. This morning in particular, there were tons of bright pink flowers adorning the side of the trail.
When I got out to the road, there was one car in the trail parking lot and a guy there on his bicycle. He was taking photos of himself at the Sonora sign with a big rubber chicken. I talked to him briefly and then continued on to the next parking area. I knew from having been there before that the parking area slightly further north would be easier to hitch a ride from from. There was just a lot more visibility there.
At the parking lot, someone had left a sign behind that said “PCT Hiker to Kennedy Meadows“. So I was able to hold that up as I tried to hitch. As I stood there, another hiker walked by who had been going southbound. Apparently he is a northbound hiker, but decided he wanted to quit the trail. So he turned back around and walked back to the highway. I spent a few minutes trying to convince him to stay on trail, but he didn’t want to hear it.
After maybe 10 or 15 minutes another northbound hiker arrived and joined me at the road. She was from Germany and she must’ve been my good luck charm, because almost immediately after she got there, we got a hitch. The guy who picked us up was ridiculously nice. I had totally forgotten that the drive to Kennedy Meadows north was long and winding. It took much longer than I expected it too. But eventually, we got there and I certainly arrived a whole lot earlier than I would have if I had to wait for the 10:30 AM shuttle.
Once I got into town, I headed straight to the restaurant and grabbed some breakfast. The girl who I had hitched into town with joined me and we hung out for a little bit. Then I very quickly resupplied for the next few days. I just need enough food to get to South lake Tahoe in about 2.5 days. I also grabbed some drinks to have before I left town and a couple to pack out with me.
Then I was able to coordinate with OutsideJay and leave my bear canister behind. I was borrowing one of his bear canisters and he said I could leave it at KMN and he would come and get it. Then in a couple days he’ll leave another bear can for me in South lake Tahoe. Because of regulations, I don’t need one today or tomorrow. But I will need one when I head north from South lake Tahoe.
While I was at KMN I got a few things posted which was nice. It’s been hard falling so far behind and not having Internet ever on trail. Considering I’ve been hiking for almost 200 days, it’s crazy to think that I’ve had service almost every single day of the year. Prior to parts of southern Maine and the Sierra, I would get service at least once every couple days.
Before heading back to trail, I wound up chatting with some thru hikers. And a couple drove up and dropped a hiker off in their van. They hiked the PCT last year and their trail names were Birdbath and Trinity. They were both super nice and I wound up talking to them for a while. And it actually worked out perfectly because they said they were able to give me a ride back to Sonora pass. Otherwise I would have to try to hitch or wait for the 2 PM shuttle. But I was hoping to still get a pretty decent amount of mileage in. Which meant the sooner I can get back to trail, the better.
Birdbath and Trinity brought me back and it was really nice talking with them while we drove in their car. They were both super cool and actually met and started dating during their PCT thru hike. It was only about 1 PM when they dropped me back off at the trail. And I felt pretty productive having gone into town and done everything I needed. And I was already back, ready to hike out again.
When I left the trailhead, I had to start a climb for the next few miles. But it was only about 1000– 1500 feet of elevation gain. I felt very strong and fueled by my big breakfast. Once I got up top, I began a long descent. And for the rest of the day I only had a few small climbs to do.
Around this time, I did start to notice a strange sensation in my hip flexor in the area where I had gotten injured about a month ago. Recently, I got a very large fly bite right on the top of my thigh. And it wound up getting immensely swollen and it was about the size of a half dollar. So I’m thinking that the swelling might be irritating the hip flexor. Because the sensation is more of a odd shooting nerve pain than a tight or sore tendon pain. I’m just going to keep an eye out and see how it does over the next couple of days.
The timing was pretty funny though. Because this morning I vividly remember thinking about the fact that my injury was finally completely healed. Over the last few days I’ve been feeling really good and haven’t even had any inkling of the residual pain from the injury. It’s funny how timing works out. Truly, almost immediately after thinking that I started to feel something in my hip flexor.
I was shocked how quickly the rest of the day flew by. I listened to an audiobook, and the trail was quite nice and easy. I would just have one last climb to do toward the end of the day. But it was looking like I would be making it further than expected and getting to camp before dark. It doesn’t get much better than that.
Over the course of the remainder of the day I listened to a new audiobook, “To shake the sleeping self” about a man’s journey on a bicycle trip from Oregon to Patagonia. This book was so incredibly good that it basically just distracted me for the entire rest of the day. And I felt like I just floated all the way to camp. I surprisingly didn’t see very many hikers for the rest of the day. I figured there would be more people who left KMN this morning and then just did a half-day out of town.
But I wound up really not running into anyone until later on in the evening. After I’d gone about 27 miles for the day I stopped off and grabbed some water. There were a bunch of marked campsites up ahead and I figured I would just stop at which ever spoke to me. Not long after that I went by a nice looking spot, but there were two other hikers getting set up there. And it just seemed like too tight of a space to set up nearby.
As I walked past, though, I heard someone yell my name. I apologized and said that I could not tell who they were from a distance. I was way too far away to make out their faces. But it wound up being Van Gogh and another Hiker who I met earlier this year whose hiker whose name is escaping me right now. I met Van Gogh in January at the Florida Trail kick off. Then ran into him in the first week or two in the PCT desert. Now here I was running into him for the third time this year.
It was really cool to see him, but I did decide to continue hiking. I had already walked pretty far past his campsite when he called over to me. And within a mile of there, I wound up finding a really nice tent spot. There was no one else set up and the space was huge and flat. There was also another designated camp spot just down the trail north of where I was. And I was honestly pretty eager to camp alone. Recently, I’ve been showing up to camp spots pretty late in the evening and they typically have a handful of other hikers already there. Which is great, but doesn’t really allow me to enjoy camp the same way.
It’s nice to be able to do editing and video stuff. It’s also nice just to be able to cook and make noise and be alive without having to feel bad about the other hikers around me. Sometimes I do enjoy camping with other people and it does give you good peace of mind. But it was really nice to camp alone for the first time in a little while. I got situated pretty fast and then boiled water for dinner and hot chocolate. Then got a bit of writing and video work done before calling it a night.
If you enjoyed this blog and would like to support my hike by buying me a soda or a snack along the way, there is a “Tip the Author” button below! It links directly to my Venmo. Any and all support is incredibly appreciated!
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