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Unplugging for a two-week motorcycle adventure in Southern Spain and Portugal (photos)

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MALAGA, Spain — Motorcycling is a great way to see the world because you are immersed in the scenery and all your senses are engaged. You have panoramic views; you feel the weather. And you have full access to the aromas of nature. That’s great in a piney forest, not so great near a populated pasture.

My partner Gary Mallory has wanted a motorcycle travel adventure for the past five years. I wanted an epic trip for my milestone birthday in October. So we merged goals and researched motorcycle trips in Europe and Northern Africa.

We nixed the Morocco idea because we worried about road conditions. Instead, we scheduled a 14-day motorcycling trip across Southern Spain and Portugal where the roads were in good repair and because we’d never been to either country.

Reporter Paris Wolfe with the BMW R1250 RT before the ride through Southern Spain and Portugal.Gary Mallory, with permission

To get the most from the trip, we chose Madrid-based IMT Bike’s tour because they’,re headquartered in Spain and know their home country. We also chose them because they offer BMW motorcycles, our favorite. From their menu of bikes, we selected an R1250 RT, with a back case, for our ride.

In mid-October, we flew 17 hours with stops and layovers to the southern port city of Malaga, Spain (population 578,460). Perhaps its greatest, latest claim to fame is that Malaga is the birthplace of Pablo Picasso and home of the Picasso Museum.

Malaga and all of Southern Spain have moderate temperatures this time of year, as well.

We arrived at the NH Hotel, where we joined guide Paolo Pezzilo, support van driver Joao Sousa Uva and a tour group of 11 other riders. Pezzilo grew up in Italy, but lives in Malaga, Spain. Uva grew up in and lives in Cascais, Portugal.

All riders in our group were U.S. citizens, except a couple from Australia. We were the only newbies on the trip. The other riders — couples and singles — had ridden in Northern Spain, France, Italy, Greece, Kazakhstan, Mexico and more. Though we are avid bikers in Ohio, we had never ridden with passports in our packs.

Our group spent 14 days on the road – 10 days riding and four days acting like tourists. On riding days, we traveled between three and six hours — about 100 to 200 miles per day — on twisting, mountainous terrain. If you stretched out the roads, our final tally was about 1,500 miles, about the distance between Cleveland and Key West.

Read more: 9 most memorable places we visited in Southern Spain and Portugal

5 foods you should try in Southern Spain and Portugal

Five ways to make certain lost luggage is returned

With the tour company, we lost no time to logistics. IMT Bike took control of our destiny, including mapping the routes and refueling stops, determining coffee and lunch stops, reserving hotels and choosing dinner restaurants. The plans included a few stops for castles, ocean viewing and other sites, as well as refueling. A control junkie, I thought letting go would be hard. Instead, it was a relief.

For a rare two weeks, I unplugged my work-brain and lived outside my comfort zone. As a motorcycle passenger, I was one with the driver — leaning, balancing, holding on. I watched other drivers and the road, making Gary aware of hazards or errant drivers. I used my mental “powers” to tell other drivers to stay put until we passed them.

Roads were high and narrow with cement blocks instead of guardrail on our motorcycle trip through Southern Spain.Paris Wolfe

We know how to ride together – him as driver, me as passenger. We thought we were badass riders, but we got more than we bargained for. As we rolled through a Mediterranean forest to the small coastal town of Nerja, our pack of eight bikes spaced out by experience. Four bikes zoomed ahead with the guide, while four followed in a second group. We were in the second group.

Nerja, known for its prehistoric cave with 42,000-year-old cave paintings, was a drive-by. We didn’t stop there or at many other attractions. Spain has so much history and we had a lot of miles to cover. This trip was first about riding. Everything else came second.

The back roads of Spain’s Andalusian Mountain region are seemingly endless twisties and switchbacks, climbing and descending. Occasionally we relaxed with some sweeping curves, but rarely did we see the equivalent of Ohio’s flat straightaways. All roads were paved and in good repair.

When the roads climbed steep mountainsides, the vistas were expansive, even breathtaking. Like seriously, I held my breath, and I looked at the stone cliff to my right, trying to not think about the lack of guardrails. When there were barriers, they were large cement blocks staggered along the roadside with gaps big enough to ride off the road. Just sayin’.

When I quelled my fear of heights, I took photos to record the best of our visual memories. We saw mountainsides and valleys dotted with olive groves, herds of sheep and cattle, ancient cities and churches and more. We saw crossing signs for cattle, deer, boar and, of all things, frogs.

The bark is stripped from cork trees every nine to 12 years for use in the wine and other industries.Paris Wolfe

To this foodie, the most interesting animals were the black pigs foraging acorns below the cork trees. The pigs are destined to become Iberico ham, a meat so sweet you’ll hardly notice pork flavor. These hams and others like them are sold for tapas or for sandwiches in shops and restaurants throughout Southern Spain.

I photographed fruiting trees – olives, citrus, quince, pomegranate, fig – growing both wild and cultivated. I saw “naked” cork trees stripped of their bark for wine closures and other commercial uses, waiting for the next bark coat to replace the previous.

Packing for a motorcycle trip requires lot of space. It includes “armored” motorcycle jacket, motorcycle pants, helmet, gloves and rain gear.Paolo Pezzilo, with permission

Throughout the trip, there was no time to think about home or work. In the morning, we ate generous continental breakfast buffets, packed up and geared up for the day. After the ride, we unpacked in each new hotel, cleaned up and dined.

Some nights Gary and I texted photos to our respective adult children and posted updates on social media before falling into bed. Other nights, we simply drifted into sleep.

We were lucky travelers with a “support” van carrying our luggage to each of the 10 hotels on the route. It was difficult enough to squeeze in helmets, rainsuits and biking jackets into suitcases. We could never fit everything for two people into the BMW’s back and side cases. Even with a large suitcase, I couldn’t pack enough for a 14-day trip, and we never had time for public laundry facilities. Whatever the ick factor, I may have worn one pair of jeans for seven days, but I regularly washed undergarments in hotel sinks.

The bones of more than 5,000 people cover the walls in the Chapel of Bones in Evora, Portugal.Paris Wolfe

Despite the wonder of these places to my history-deprived American self, we didn’t have much time to explore every city we visited. There’s just too much to see. Our group traveled from Malaga to Granada, Antequera and Mazagon in Spain. We continued to coastal Lagos and Cascais in Portugal. Then Evora, also in Portugal. We returned to Spain at Seville, Arcos de la Frontera and Ronda. All totaled, we slept in 10 cities.

After a while, I couldn’t keep track of where I’d been. I left that sorting to a photo album when I returned home.

The hotels were far more than just beds. Most were historically significant, many had stunning views. For example, the Pousada Cidadela Cascais is a 5-star hotel with an on-site art district. Built in a 16th century fort, I felt like I was staying in a “Game of Thrones” wall.

Pestana Cidadela Cascais – Pousada Historic Hotel & Art District is situated in a 16th century fort.Paris Wolfe

Meanwhile, the Parador Arcos de la Frontera hotel rests on the gorge wall above the Guadalete River. Getting up the narrow, twisting cobblestone streets during the rain into the town was a challenge. Tourist busses could never make the trek.

The hotel sits next to the centuries old Basílica Menor de Santa María de la Asunción and the Convent of the Mercedarias (1692). Its lounge has a large picture window overlooking the valley about 600 feet below.

Cascais, Portugal, is a port city in Southern Spain, not far from Lisbon.Paris Wolfe

IMT Bike had selectively given us one-day breaks in Granada, Cascais and Seville in addition to our start/end dates in Malaga. Some days we arrived in other towns early enough for a walk and, perhaps, a little shopping. Other days, we had just enough time to prepare for dinner.

Southern Spain is known for its warm weather. It’s hot in summer, which is why we traveled in October’s more temperate climate. Alas, IMT can control everything but the weather. We hit two days of rain on our ride and during our day’s break in Seville.

While we were struggling through downpours in Seville, 400 miles away, Valencia was hit by a year’s rain in one day, killing more than 200 people. We encountered evidence of the region’s torrential rains when we hit mud-covered (and dangerously slippery) low-lying roadways near Malaga. It was so bad that sandy mud had been plowed from the roadways, much like we do with snow in Chardon. We took a detour as soon as we were able.

The “New Bridge” in Ronda, Spain, was completed in 1793. The structure underneath originally served as a prison.Paris Wolfe

The final leg of our trip took us to Ronda, home of Plaza de Torosa, a nearly 300-year-old bullfighting ring. Ronda is also home to Puente Nuevo, the “new bridge,’’ completed, ironically, in 1793. It spans the Guadalevín River high above a 390-foot gorge. It likely inspired the scene in Ernest Hemingway’s “For Whom the Bell Tolls,” where locals throw fascist sympathizers off a bridge.

From Ronda we rode back to Malaga, where we spent a final touristy day before our 17-hour return to Cleveland and real life.

Send dining, drinking and culture story ideas to Paris Wolfe at pwolfe@cleveland.com. Review her previous stories here. Follow Paris Wolfe on Instagram @pariswolfe.

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Italians turn away from private beaches amid debate over rising prices | Italy

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Italians appear to be snubbing beaches this summer, amid claims they are rebelling against the high prices charged by the owners of private beach concessions.

Going to the beach and renting cabins, loungers and parasols – usually at the same location – has long been an ingrained habit of Italian summer holiday culture.

But this year’s season began with a notable fall in beachgoer numbers after private resorts along Italy’s two long stretches of coastline recorded a decrease of between 15% and 25% in June and July compared with the same period in 2024.

The problem is not so much the weekend, when beach resorts are often congested, especially those close to cities such as Rome, but during the week. Those who do go are also spending less on food and drink.

Fabrizio Licordari, the president of Assobalneari Italia, an association representing beach clubs, blamed the decline on the high cost of living and its consequences on spending power.

“Even with two salaries, many families struggle to reach the end of the month,” he told Ansa news agency. “In such circumstances, it’s natural that the first expenses to be cut are those for leisure, entertainment and holidays.”

The drop in attendance, however, also coincides with increases in the cost of private beach resorts and the growing rebellion against their dominance of Italian shorelines, which has left very little space for free beaches.

The cost of renting a sunlounger is a recurring topic of discussion, and rightly so – on average, it costs 17% more than it did four years ago, according to figures this week from the consumer group Altroconsumo. On beaches in the Lazio region, for example, it is difficult to rent two loungers and an umbrella for less than €30 (£26) a day. That rises to about €90 in the popular resort of Gallipoli in Puglia.

The actor Alessandro Gassmann stoked the debate after sharing a photo of a beach with deserted loungers on his Instagram page and writing alongside it: “I read that the season is not going well. Maybe it’s because the prices are exaggerated and the country’s economic situation is forcing Italians to choose free beaches? Lower the prices and maybe things will get better.”

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Maurizio Rustignoli, the president of Fiba, the Italian beach resorts federation, argued that reports of high price rises were “misleading” and that, where they occurred, it was by only a small percentage. He added that people in return benefited from services including security and lifeguard supervision.

But the consumers association Codacons said going to beach resorts had become “a drain” on people’s finances and accused the concession owners of “shedding crocodile tears”.

The beaches might be losing custom, but areas in the mountains, especially the Dolomites, have had a significant rise in visitor numbers, with some areas fearing overtourism. According to a report this week in the newspaper Il Messaggero, more Italians are venturing to the mountains for their holidays, partly as a way to escape increasingly hot summers caused in part by the climate crisis.





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A cooler costa: the summer glories of northern Spain’s Costa Trasmiera | Spain holidays

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While we all know that “costa” is simply the Spanish word for “coast”, for most of us it has a much wider meaning, evoking all sorts of images, both positive and negative. It may be beaches, fun, cold beers and tapas at a chiringuito (beach bar) with your feet in the sand. Perhaps you’re thinking of childhood holidays in a thrillingly huge hotel, where you happily stuffed yourself with ice-cream and chips for a fortnight. More recent memories might revolve around showy beach clubs with exorbitant prices. If you’ve been to the costas of eastern or southern Spain in the past few years, however, you may have reluctantly concluded that your favourite resorts are now a bit too hot for comfort.

This year, there has been a lot of buzz about “la España fresca”, or cool Spain, but, in reality, Spaniards have been thronging the northern coast in summer for decades, decamping to Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and the Basque Country. This is particularly true for residents of Madrid and other cities in central Spain that are stifling in July and August.

Along the north coast, temperatures are usually more like those of Cornwall on a good summer’s day. But be warned: you do get blisteringly hot spells, too, not to mention a greater risk of wet weather. I have trudged along beaches in driving rain in June, but enjoyed glorious sunshine and delicious swims well into September.

One of my favourite chunks of northern Spain is the Costa Trasmiera in Cantabria. If you are trying to cut down on flying, it has the advantage of being easy to reach by Brittany Ferries from Portsmouth or Plymouth to Santander, the regional capital, or from Portsmouth to Bilbao, an hour’s drive away.

Anchovies and tuna for sale in Santoña. Photograph: Tim Graham/Alamy

Sailing into the Bay of Santander, your eyes are drawn to the city, framed by its string of beaches, rising up on your right. Look left, however, and the view is rural rather than urban. A long spit of glittering sand, El Puntal, protrudes into the bay, with a green landscape stretching out behind it to the east. This is the Costa Trasmiera, a stretch of about 30 miles (50km) between Santander and the fishing town of Santoña.

A car is really useful to get to different beaches along the coast, but there are buses from Santander to the main places, such as Somo, Noja and Santoña. With a car, you are only likely to be travelling short distances each day, so using an EV is no problem.

If you liked the look of El Puntal as you were arriving, you can jump on a little ferry across the bay. I love doing this when I’m staying in Santander, as within a quarter of an hour I’m running into the sea, shrieking as the cold water hits my body. If you’re used to wallowing in the tepid soup of the Mediterranean in summer, it might come as a bit of a shock.

The view across the bay from Santander. Photograph: Juanma Aparicio/Alamy

Back on the sand, a chopped seafood salad and glass of rosé at Chiringuito El Puntal Tricio always hits the spot. Walking along the beach brings you to Somo, a hub for surfers from all over the world, where you’ll find lots of cafes, bars and places offering surfing and paddleboarding tuition. Hotel Bemon Playa (doubles from €90 room-only) is in the thick of things if you fancy staying for a few days.

Heading east along the coast, it’s one superb beach after another: Loredo, Langre, Galizano, Antuerta, Cuberris. Book a table for a lobster lunch or a seafood platter overlooking the sea at Hotel Astuy (doubles from €60 room-only) in Isla, where the crustaceans served in the restaurant are kept in seawater pools in caves below the building. The hotel is a good base for exploring the area, but just beyond Isla, right next to Playa de Ris, Camping Playa Joyel (pitches from €19.50) is one of several good campsites on the Costa Trasmiera, with lots of facilities to keep kids happy.

From the campsite, it’s an easy walk into Noja, the main holiday town on the coast. Practical rather than pretty, for most of the year it is a sleepy place with a population of about 2,500. In summer, however, the number rises to an astounding 80,000-plus, mostly in second homes and holiday apartments – a much higher ratio of tourists and second-home owners to residents than in resorts on the Costa Blanca and Costa del Sol. Families from other parts of Spain, especially the adjacent Basque Country, install themselves for the entire school holidays, which can stretch from late June until the second week of September.

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Joyel salt marshes. Photograph: Mikel Bilbao/Gorostiaga Travels/Alamy

Although there are vestiges in Noja of the village it once was – including the church of San Pedro on the main square and a handful of grand mansions – the streets are lined with apartment blocks, with shops, bars and restaurants at ground level. This may not be the most attractive place, but for the thousands who come here year after year, it has everything needed for a relaxing holiday with no delusions of grandeur or attempts at being cool. No one cares what you’re wearing here.

With Playa de Ris on one side of Noja and the equally gorgeous Trengandín stretching away on the other (a path links the two), it’s not hard to see how people while away a summer here with swims, picnics, leisurely walks, long lunches and sunset cocktails. Seafood is, of course, excellent, but the nécoras (velvet crabs) are particularly prized.

Those who can summon the energy to move on from Noja only have to round the El Brusco headland at the end of Trengandín to come upon yet another splendid beach. Berria is bordered by the Santoña, Victoria and Joyel marshlands, a nature reserve that attracts migratory birds from autumn to spring.

Considered a delicacy, Santoña anchovies are served straight from the tin at restaurants and tapas bars. Photograph: Sergio Rojo/Alamy

The adjacent town of Santoña marks the end of the Costa Trasmiera. It’s all about fisheries and canning factories here, which is a lot more interesting than it sounds. As long as you like anchovies, that is. Santoña anchovies are bigger and fleshier than most, with a softer texture and a more delicate flavour, and here they’re expertly filleted and preserved in olive oil. Considered a delicacy throughout Spain, they are served straight out of the tin at top restaurants and tapas bars. Have a look around the anchovy museum – really – before ordering some at a bar, along with a plate of sardines and a beer. Devour the lot while standing at a high table on the pavement outside, then quaff another beer. You may find yourself ordering more anchovies as well.

By now you should have tuned into the laid-back Costa Trasmiera vibe. All you have to do, at some point, is make your way back to Santander. It only takes about half an hour by car, but you may be tempted to stop at some of the inland villages along the way. This is not an area to rush around, which – if you’re doing things properly – you will no doubt have gathered by now.



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How I Pulled Off My Own Huck Finn Rafting Adventure

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As the sun set on our final day, we pulled into the lee of a small peninsula and motored to the take-out, using headlamps to scout for shallow rocks in the water. After landing on the sandy beach, we secured the raft and, for the first time, let out a sigh of relief, realizing our makeshift raft had made it through wind, waves, rocks and rapids, all without major issues. Not long after, however, I found myself consumed by a different thought: a wish that we were still floating downstream.





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