The Croatian city of Dubrovnik may have experienced a surge in popularity in recent years, but it has held a very special place in my heart for a long time, ever since I first visited in 2001. Back then, it was still recovering from the effects of the Croatian War of Independence, which had occurred some 10 years prior, and the Old Town was a battle-scarred yet relatively peaceful place to wander, slowly rebuilding itself. Walking around the Old City walls (which were free at the time), peering over mismatched tiles and gappy rooftops that grinned up at me like an old lady’s smile, I was struck by the remarkable resilience of this city and its people, by how imposing and enduring these walls are. Pandemics, fires, earthquakes, war—Dubrovnik has weathered them all. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979, wider forces are at play to keep the city safe and peaceful, preserving its many treasures for future generations.

And what treasures it has. Wandering through the Old Town feels like stepping into one vast open-air museum. Add to this some exceptional local restaurants, superb boutique hotels, and a smattering of intimate wine bar—and you’re looking at a winning destination. I’ve been back many times since my first visit, and there are always new things to do in Dubrovnik—culture vultures will love the museums, street festivals, and rich history; beach lovers will have plenty of bays to explore; film buffs will recognize the many set locations; whilst the more adventurous can hike the numerous mountain trails and pine-scented paths that wind through the surrounding landscape.

Best things to do in Dubrovnik

1. Walk the Old City Walls

Walking around the old city walls is a must-do experience in Dubrovnik. These formidable fortifications rise to an impressive 82 feet in places, testament to the city’s strategic importance through the centuries. The 1.25-mile circuit offers a glimpse into the past and breathtaking views over the Old Town and the Adriatic Sea, extending out to Lokrum and the Elaphiti Islands. Wear sensible shoes, take plenty of water (or refill at the old fountain near Pile Gate entrance), and, if you’re visiting in summer, go in the early morning (8 a.m.) or late afternoon to avoid the crowds and heat.

When you’re done, wander around the limestone alleys in the Old Town itself and get lost in the backstreets (it’s where all the cool cats hang out, quite literally). Admire the elegant architecture along the Stradun—the city’s grand main thoroughfare—before stepping inside the cathedral and Franciscan monastery, home to one of Europe’s oldest functioning pharmacies. Cap it all off with a well-earned beer at Buža Bar, dramatically perched just beneath the ancient walls themselves. The views are particularly lovely at sunset.

2. Lokrum Island

Regular boats ply the route between the old harbor and Lokrum Island. The scenic ride whisks you from city life to an island nature reserve—perfect for a day’s exploring. Check out the Benedictine monastery ruins, swim in the Dead Sea lake, spot the wild peacocks, and see the Iron Throne replica from Game of Thrones before heading back to the old town in time for dinner.

3. Rector’s Palace

The Rector’s Palace is one of the best museums for learning about Dubrovnik’s history, back when it was the Republic of Ragusa. It was here that each elected Rector would take up residence for exactly one month—a tradition of rotating governance that lasted until 1808. This Gothic-Renaissance-Baroque palace served as the nerve centre of the republic: government seat, administrative headquarters, courthouse, prison, and armory all rolled into one. Today, you can meander around its atmospheric rooms, including the Rector’s private quarters and bedchamber, as well as the former prison cells—then, if you’re lucky, catch a classical concert in its Renaissance atrium.

4. Ston and the Pelješac Peninsula

The Pelješac Peninsula is renowned for its wine and oysters, making a visit here a great day out. Oysters have been celebrated here since Roman times, and are best eaten raw with a dash of lemon. If you happen to be here in March, the Festival of Oysters is a great way to celebrate the area’s fresh produce. You can also visit family-owned vineyards, famous for their Dingač and full-bodied Postup wines, made from Plavac Mali grapes. Be sure to walk the medieval walls that link Ston and Mali Ston. Built as a defense for the Republic of Ragusa and to protect the lucrative salt pans, these walls are now the longest in Europe at 3.1 miles, giving them the nickname “Europe’s Great Wall of China.” Then, if you have time, you can check out the salt works themselves. To reach here, you can either book an organized tour from Dubrovnik, rent a car, or (if you plan on wine-tasting) catch the number 15 bus from the main bus terminal to Ston or Mali Ston (journey time around one hour and 15 minutes).