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Manchán Magan recounts an unforgettable experience with community tourism in Ethiopia

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In the course of 20 years of travel journalism the most impactful article I ever wrote was one about Ethiopia. It began with the words “I may have, inadvertently, unearthed the perfect holiday — affordable, unforgettable and in one of the most awesome, exotic and unexplored parts of the world. A holiday that will actually enrich your life, and that you may very likely look back upon from your deathbed with a smile.”

As an opening gambit, it was almost embarrassingly effusive, but I was certain at the time that the holiday was one of a kind, and in the years since it’s been beyond compare in terms of natural beauty, cultural richness and the sheer uniqueness of the whole experience.

It was a walking holiday along the spectacular basalt escarpments of the Ethiopian highlands around Lalibela, one of the world’s most astounding sacred locations, set in a mountain range along the Great Rift Valley where the Blue Nile rises. The holiday involved a series of gentle hikes through the hills, staying with local communities at night in clean, elegant traditional lodges.

I realised that readers would be wary about travelling to Africa, and most especially to Ethiopia, which Irish people equate with war and famine, and so I emphasised how safe the holiday would be, how great the food was, and how it would cost only a fraction of normal holidays, while also directly benefiting some of the poorest people on earth in a provable, tangible way.

I used every journalistic device I had in the hopes of convincing readers to take a chance, and it worked. In the 12 years since I wrote the piece I’ve had more positive feedback about it than for anything else I’ve written. The same holiday is still available today and run by a philanthropic “community tourism” offshoot of the original TESFA organisation (Tourism in Ethiopia for Sustainable Future Alternatives).

And I still get emails from grateful readers.

So, what exactly does it entail? You start out at either the town of Lalibela or Bahir Dar, or Gondar, depending on how you wish to travel north from the capital, Addis Ababa. All are spectacular places and you’ll want to spend a few days exploring them before you arrange to get dropped at the trailhead with your guide, where porters from the community will be waiting with donkeys. And, from there you simply set off walking 8km along a tree-lined path up towards the escarpment, through a pastoral landscape of grain fields, terraced vegetable plots and soaring stony upland meadows, with clusters of mud and thatch farms here and there. 

It’s a magical land of olive groves, shepherd boys and women scrubbing cloths at acacia-lined streams. You’ll encounter hidden Orthodox churches made from stone and wood, and processions of garlanded priests with gold-tasselled sun umbrellas.

Although the land looks arid, it’s remarkably bountiful and everywhere there are men ploughing with oxen and wooden ploughs and winnowing with forks cut from tree branches.

The trail is easy and the pace is slow, so you will feel a nice fatigue rather than exhaustion at the end of the first day, and the beauty of your overnight location will soon revive you. It’s right on the edge of the escarpment, with mountains running on to the ends of the earth and surging outcrops of hexagonal basalt columns rising up beneath you. The smoke from cooking fires is all that hints at possible habitation down below. 

Above you are a profusion of auger buzzards, falcons, and eagles soaring on the thermals. You are served tea and a freshly-baked snack as you take in the view. Then, while dinner is cooking you head out to an over-hanging rock-ledge for a sunset beer, as Gelada baboons scramble along the cliff face beneath you. Dinner is served around an open fire in one of the traditional circular, stone-walled, thatched-roof tukuls, and since there is no electricity you go to sleep early.

The days continue more or less like this — you can trek for between one and six nights — the landscape and people becoming ever more alluring the deeper you enter the region. Each trek between the various camps is beautiful for its own reason, but in my memory, the most spectacular and challenging of all was the walk up into the remote highland sanctuary of Abuna Yoseph. This route is long and requires stamina. It leads you up through a forest of giant heather to a community-run camp at 3,500 metres and onwards the next day over a highland plateau farmed by resilient mountain people, to a 4,300-metre peak in an Afro-Alpine ecosystem of giant Lobelias (massive cabbage-like trees) and rare Ethiopian wolves.

Hopefully, it’s now clearer why so many readers were lured to try out the holiday and enjoyed it so much. It’s remarkable that the trip is still available after 12 years, especially since it’s a philanthropic, community-run venture, and such things are normally hard to maintain long-term. TESFA was initially set up by an Englishman, Mark Chapman, who realised that since there were no tarred roads or any other type of infrastructure in the area, the usual rich white investors from South Africa or Europe could not be enticed in, and this provided an ideal opportunity to develop a genuine network of community tourism sites in which the locals themselves could benefit in a tangible way, rather than having all the profits siphoned out to wealthy investors overseas.

He hiked out to what he considered was the most beautiful spot in the entire region, a fertile meadow right at the edge of a plummeting black basalt escarpment, and explained to the local elders that if they built a few of their traditional tukuls he would bring tourists to them and he’d give them 55% of what the tourists paid, while 25% went to the local guides with the remaining 20% being used to cover marketing and booking costs. They were initially sceptical, wondering where the catch was, but they grudgingly agreed, and in 2003 the first lodges were built on the very edge of a sheer precipice at Mequat Mariam overlooking a tawny-coloured stretch of undulating paradise.

By the time I visited six years later, I was able to see the grain store and school buildings built by the community with the funds they had received. By then, TESFA had an office in Addis Ababa and were setting up other trails throughout Ethiopia.

The organisation has continued to grow with remarkable stability ever since and with valuable support funding from the Irish government through Irish Aid. Some internal challenges led Chapman to set up an offshoot, Tesfa Tours, in 2010, but the holiday is still the same.

In 2019 I was all set to write a follow-up article focusing on some new destinations that Tesfa Tours were offering, but then everything changed. The world seemed to wake up to the fact that the Earth was now the warmest it’d been in 120,000 years, and that concentrations of carbon dioxide were the highest they’d been in millions of years. I realised it was no longer justifiable to be promoting foreign holidays, even ones that do as much tangible good for the local community.

Reluctantly, I cancelled my trip and gradually began to accept the new reality that my holidays would have to be taken by train from now on. Ethiopia would remain a beautiful memory for me until such time as electric planes are developed that can affordably fly that far.

As for what other people should do, it’s not for me to say. I definitely am still passionate about the ability of community tourism to bring great benefits to disadvantaged areas. Perhaps people need to take fewer journeys, but for longer and make them more impactful. Ethiopia has been struck by Covid as badly as anywhere in Africa, with most infections confined to the capital. The situation is compounded by war in the northern province of Tigray, but despite these setbacks, Tesfa Tours is still continuing to offer hikes in the mountains and Ethiopian Airlines is still operating flights direct from Dublin.



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Mexico’s Secretary of Tourism Discusses the Country’s New Take on Tourism

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Travel is booming in Mexico. According to the nation’s Ministry of Tourism, 39.4 million international visitors arrived in Mexico between January and May, a 14.2% jump from the same period last year. 

Mexico’s president, Claudia Sheinbaum, is aiming for even greater growth, with a goal of making Mexico the world’s fifth most-visited country by 2030 — as part of a wide-ranging plan, dubbed Mexico 2030, that focuses on economic development in various sectors. 

Leading the government’s charge in the tourism sector is Josefina Rodriguez Zamora, who was appointed Mexico’s secretary of tourism in October 2024 after serving as secretary of tourism for the state of Tlaxcala from 2021 to 2024. 

In this interview, Rodriguez discusses various challenges, as well as the ministry’s new take on tourism — which includes a stronger focus on local communities and sustainability, a new tourism campaign and greater collaboration with travel advisors. 

President Sheinbaum has been in office since October 2024. How would you describe the new administration’s approach to tourism? 

With the government of President Claudia Sheinbaum, tourism is recognized as a pillar of sustainable development. We’ve strengthened interagency coordination, prioritized sustainable investment and ramped up international promotion with new campaigns. The shared prosperity vision remains, but with an even stronger focus on innovation, inclusion and sustainability.

RELATED: Tianguis 2025 Showcases Mexico’s Tourism Growth

The arrival of President Claudia Sheinbaum represents continuity of a national plan with a social vision that’s inclusive and deeply committed to the wellbeing of all Mexicans. Today … we’re establishing a new stage for national tourism, with a focus that’s fairer, more modern and transformative.

One of this administration’s pillars is the strengthening of community tourism — not just as a development tool, but as a way to share the cultural, historical and natural richness of our communities with the world. We want tourism in Mexico to generate shared prosperity, to empower communities and preserve our traditions, languages, knowledge and ecosystems. 

How are you moving toward that goal? 

Technological innovation and the use of digital tools are fundamental for this new phase. We’re promoting online training platforms, intelligent promotion strategies and connectivity systems that allow more people to discover, experience and visit Mexico more easily. 

Tourism is now a national wellbeing strategy in Mexico.
Credit: 2025 Puerto Vallarta Tourism Board

The key difference is that now, tourism is no longer just an economic sector. It’s a national wellbeing strategy that honors our roots, promotes equity and advances the country toward a future that’s more sustainable, better connected and profoundly human.  

Hospitality knows no political borders. Tourism builds bridges.

Does political rhetoric in the United States affect Americans traveling to Mexico?

Mexico maintains a respectful and collaborative stance. What’s most important is that the American people continue to travel to Mexico enthusiastically and frequently. Hospitality knows no political borders. Tourism builds bridges. We focus on delivering experiences so positive that they overcome any prejudice or external rhetoric.

In Mexico City, the government has introduced new restrictions on short-term rentals to combat gentrification. How do you view these challenges? 

In Mexico, we firmly believe in tourism as a tool for coming together, for understanding and social development. We’re a supportive people, warm by nature and profoundly proud of our history, our communities and our landscapes. We like to welcome the people who visit as if they were coming home, because we’re great hosts by nature. 

Josefina Rodriguez Zamora (third from right) at the Guelaguetza festival in Oaxaca
Credit: 2025 SECTUR

But we also know that tourism must be responsible. That’s why the government emphasizes the importance of a tourist model that’s sustainable, environmentally respectful and aligned with the needs of local communities. Decrees protect natural areas, and policies support cultural and ecological preservation. 

It’s not just a matter of tourists enjoying our beaches, mountains, jungles and Magical Towns. It’s also about how we Mexicans can continue to enjoy and share these spaces for generations to come. We want tourism to coexist with its surroundings, not displace it; to strengthen local identity, not erase it.  

We want tourism to coexist with its surroundings, not displace it; to strengthen local identity, not erase it.

That’s why we work hand in hand with communities, emphasizing territorial fairness, so that tourism adds rather than subtracts — and so that tourism development benefits everyone. Our commitment is clear: to preserve what we are and what we have, and to continue proudly sharing it with the world.  

How can travelers have a positive impact when visiting Mexico?

We encourage travelers to shop locally, respect customs, avoid exploitative tourism and choose sustainable experiences. Traveling consciously transforms both the communities and the traveler who visits them.

RELATED: How to Better Understand — and Book — Sustainable Travel

How can travelers minimize the negative effects of overtourism? 

Mexico isn’t just a nation of sun and beaches — although our coasts are spectacular. We’re also a nation of mountains, jungles, deserts, volcanoes, living communities and towns with history and soul. That’s why we strongly promote community-based tourism: a more conscientious, responsible and respectful way to travel, both for the environment and for each destination’s cultural identity. 

These new tourism experiences allow visitors to connect with people, their traditions and their way of life, while at the same time supporting local wellbeing and inclusive development. It’s tourism with a purpose. 

RELATED: Visiting Indigenous Communities in the Yucatan Peninsula

There are 177 Magical Towns, each with its own unique charm. From the Huichol art in Nayarit to the living Maya traditions in Yucatan and the Otomi rituals in Hidalgo, Mexico offers routes that break away from the crowds and embrace authenticity. 

We invite travelers to explore these lesser-known destinations, to experience Mexico in the heart of its communities, to become part of a new form of tourism — one that transforms and leaves a mark, as much for those who experience it as for those who offer it. 

What should travel advisors and their clients know about safety and security in Mexico today? 

Mexico is currently experiencing one of its safest periods in years, with steadily declining crime rates that have boosted traveler confidence. This is reflected in the fact that more than half of the international tourists who visit are women, who choose Mexico as a safe and welcoming destination.

Mexico is currently experiencing one of its safest periods in years, with steadily declining crime rates that have boosted traveler confidence.

Thanks to the national security strategy and coordinated work among the three levels of government, this progress is also reflected in the consistent growth in international visitors, especially from the United States and Canada. Travelers come back not just for our beaches and culture; they also come back because they feel welcome and safe.

RELATED: Travel Advisors Report Growing Client Hesitation as Global Uncertainty Rises

Being aware that negative narratives still exist in some international media, we launched the Latidos del Mundo [Heartbeats of the World] campaign, a communication strategy targeting international travelers that conveys a message focused on peace, personal connection and Mexican authenticity. This campaign highlights our strengths: hospitality, natural and cultural richness and the safety that the nation offers as a tourism destination.

You’re looking to work closely with travel advisors. What are the goals of this year’s roadshow?

The Meet Mexico Roadshow 2025 is a very special tour. We’ll be in Chicago, Toronto, Dallas, Houston, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Montreal and New York to strengthen business ties, train travel advisors and showcase Mexico’s diversity beyond just sun and beach. Unlike previous editions, this tour focuses on cultural, culinary and health and wellness experiences, as well as newly emerging destinations. We’re sharing a unified message: Mexico as a country of authentic, safe hospitality, aligned with global trends of conscious travel.

How has the way you collaborate with U.S.-based travel advisors evolved? 

We’ve significantly strengthened our work with travel advisors in the U.S., building a strategic relationship that provides ongoing support and up-to-date information.  

The Secretary of Tourism offers various training courses and modules through official digital platforms, specifically designed for travel advisors, tour operators and industry professionals. These courses cover key topics such as emerging destinations, wellness tourism, cultural experiences and sustainability, aligned with our diversification strategy. Through these platforms, advisors can access multimedia resources, specialized itineraries and interactive tools to sell Mexico more effectively and distinctively.

Dates for the Meet Mexico Roadshow

Chicago and Toronto: Aug. 25–29 
Dallas and Houston: Sept. 9–13 
San Francisco and Los Angeles: Oct. 7–11 
Montreal and New York: Nov. 10–14 



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Tripadvisor award names Galashiels attraction one of the best in world

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The Great Tapestry of Scotland been named in top 10 per cent of visitor attractions in the world for the second year in a row in the Tripadvisor Travellers’ Choice Awards 2025.

Sandy Maxwell-Forbes, centre director, said: “This is testament to the passion, creativity, and hard work that our small team puts into creating a consistently five-star visitor experience.

READ MORE: Borders computing shop celebrates 30 years of business

“We are honoured to be celebrated both nationally, internationally and locally, and remain committed to providing an inspiring and inclusive experience for every visitor who walks through our doors.

“We would like to extend our deepest thanks to everyone who has taken the time to visit us, leave a review and share their experiences and of course the community which plays a key part in making the centre a success.

READ MORE: Popular bike shop in Borders town set to close

“Your kind words, support and enthusiasm have helped make this achievement possible and is important now more than ever as we continue to operate through a cost of living crisis.”

The awards are based on reviews through the Tripadvisor website from over the last 12 months.

Mags Fenner, project manager BID for Galashiels, the town’s business improvement district, said: “This world-class attraction puts Galashiels on the map as a cultural destination and draws visitors from near and far.

READ MORE: Restored rare globes feature in tour of reopened Borders house

“Local shops, cafés and restaurants have felt the benefit of increased footfall, with many visitors choosing to explore and support our high street after experiencing the tapestry.

“It’s also been inspiring to see school children from across the region engage with the tapestry as a rich and accessible way to learn about Scottish and Borders history and culture.

“We’re proud to have such a globally recognised centre at the heart of Galashiels.”





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Family forced to hide in their cabin during £8,000 cruise from hell | News UK

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The Wright family were trapped in their room to avoid the drunken passengers (Picture: Kennedy News and Media)

A ‘family-friendly’ cruise became a holiday from hell after a family were forced to hide in their cabin to escape hordes of drunk passengers.

Ian and Sally Wright, from Sunderland, had forked out £8,000 to get on board the MSC Cruise Virtuosa on July 12th for a two-week trip across Spain.

The believed the cruise was aimed at families so would be perfect for kids Jack, 11, and Molly, 8,as well as Sally’s mum.

However the holiday descended into chaos, with the other passengers said to have drunk ‘insane’ amounts of booze more suited for a nightclub.

The 41-year-old dad said: ‘We wanted to book this cruise because we thought it was a family ship. We thought it looked great for kids.

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‘It was worse than a Wetherspoons. It would take you half an hour to get a drink. It was just horrendous.

One drunken guest threw up next to the family’s table while they were playing Scrabble
(Picture: Kennedy News and Media)

‘It felt like an 18 to 30s club at times. If you were by the pool, you’d just hear constant swearing and people getting louder through the day.

‘We just thought “what have we spent our money on?” It became like Fawlty Towers.’

The author described how one family scrabble game was ruined when a drunken cruiser vomited next to their table.

He claimed it took staff an hour to mop up the ‘smelly’ mess.

The family claim they were forced to hide in their cabin (Picture: Kennedy News and Media)

MSC Cruises said they ‘regretted’ that the family’s experience did not meet their expectations and said they will be reaching out to ensure their ‘concerns are properly reviewed and addressed’. 

Beyond the drunken behaviour, things got worse when Iain’s kids Jack and Molly returned from the top deck ‘covered in black soot’, which Ian claimed came from the ship’s funnels.

Ian claimed: ‘We were leaving the port and the kids went up to the top deck to see if the water slides were open.’

‘While they were on that deck, it just rained down black stuff all over them. They came down to tell us and Jack’s skin was covered in black stuff, Molly’s swimming costume was stained all over her and it was on her arms.’

The substance even triggered an allergic reaction on the 8-year-old’s skin, with the family visiting the doctor to treat her hives.

The dad continued: ‘They said it was from the fumes because it was in the area where the fumes had touched her skin.

Ian claims Molly got an allergic reaction from the ‘soot’ (Picture: Kennedy News and Media)

‘She suffered with itching for 24 hours but it was a result of her being covered in this soot. It’s not acceptable.’

The horrified family then complained to staff but were allegedly told by staff ‘it happens sometimes’.

The shell-shocked family said they tried to leave the cruise halfway through in Majorca after they were sheltering in their rooms to avoid the ‘horrible’ atmosphere.

Dad Ian said there was ‘constant swearing’ and drunkenness which meant they had only 12 hours of fun over two weeks.

He demanded an apology and a partial refund.

Ian said there was ‘constant swearing’ and drunkenness on board (Picture: Kennedy News and Media)

Ian went on: ‘We spent most of the holidays just going out to eat and staying in our cabins because the atmosphere was just awful. There were no quiet areas. Everywhere was packed. 

‘We got back feeling quite disheartened. It was a lot of money. The kids were disappointed.’

An MSC Cruises spokesman said: ‘We take all guest feedback seriously and regret that the Wright family’s experience did not meet their expectations.

‘Their concerns were addressed directly by the team on board and they were encouraged to follow up with our Customer Service team after their trip for further assistance.

‘As we have not received any additional communication from them since then, our Customer Service team will now reach out to the Wright family directly to ensure their concerns are properly reviewed and addressed.’

Get in touch with our news team by emailing us at webnews@metro.co.uk.

For more stories like this, check our news page.



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