Destinations & Things To Do
Impossible Things – Alpinist
[This Sharp End story originally appeared in Alpinist 89 (Spring 2025), which is now available on newsstands and in our online store. Only a small fraction of our many long-form stories from the print edition are ever uploaded to Alpinist.com. Be sure to pick up the hard copies of Alpinist for all the goodness!–Ed.]
Alice laughed. “… One can’t believe impossible things.”
“I daresay you haven’t had much practice,” said the Queen. “When I was your age, I always did it for half-an-hour a day. Why, sometimes I’ve believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast. There goes the shawl again!” —Lewis Carroll, Through the Looking-Glass
Dawn Wall free in a day. There, I thought it, said it, wrote it. Someday it’s sure to happen, yes?
Séb Berthe agrees. On January 31 the thirty-one-year-old became the fourth person to free climb the thirty-two-pitch 5.14d route on El Capitan after a fourteen-day push.
“I have actually been thinking a lot about that!” he responded when I presented him with that ridiculous statement. “I believe that would certainly be the hardest and … the coolest El Cap ascent ever done. I think it is possible, not for me, though. [It would have to be] for someone really committed to this project for several seasons.”
Committed is the key word. But to what? That is the question to be answered. Is it lunacy, or the mark of a visionary, to believe commitment to such a thing is worthwhile?
There’s a reason the quote from Carroll’s 1871 novel endures, repeated for generations. Saying, speaking, believing—these all make a thing that much closer to reality. Or, potentially, they only lead one deeper into rabbit holes of delusion. Fanciful, futuristic things are generally assumed to be delusion until they are made real by alchemists—people who maybe have to be at least a little bit mad to believe such possibilities in the first place.
Climbers constantly test themselves against delusion.
Lynn Hill became the first person to free climb El Capitan (Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La) via the Nose (5.14a, 2,900′) in 1993. It made people’s heads spin to think that a five-foot-two woman would succeed where so many bigger—presumably “stronger”—men had failed for so many years. It had also taken Hill years of effort, starting around 1989. Not satisfied, she returned in 1994 and free climbed the route in twenty-three hours.
Hill’s feats would not be repeated for more than a decade. In 2005, Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell freed the Nose as a team over four days. Caldwell sent the route twice more that year, first in twelve hours, then in eleven, becoming the second person to free climb Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La in a day. Another decade went by before the Nose saw another free ascent, by Jorg Verhoeven. And it wasn’t until 2019 that Babsi Zangerl became the third woman to send the route when she climbed it with her partner Jacopo Larcher.
It was also in 2019 that Berthe emerged onto the El Cap stage, when he became the first person to send the Nose ground up without pre-inspection (rehearsing the crux moves that are encountered high on the wall). Zangerl even supported his bid by supplying extra food when he was on the verge of giving up.
It’s worth mentioning that just months ago, from November 19 to 22, while Issue 88 was being sent to press, Zangerl became the first person to flash the Big Stone when she completed every pitch of Freerider (5.13a, ca. 3,300′) on her first try. It is, of course, the same route that Alex Honnold free soloed in 2017—which remains one of the most phenomenal events in climbing history—but that was accomplished after extensive rehearsal, unlike Zangerl’s ascent.
There are so many examples of humans surpassing “impossible” barriers on El Cap alone, I can’t possibly fit them all here.
Getting back to the Dawn Wall: as a free climb it sounded wacky when Caldwell started exploring its feasibility in 2007. The route he envisioned tackled the tallest, steepest and sheerest panel of granite on the monolith. Even after he ascertained that the individual moves were possible, the prospect of having enough endurance—and skin on his fingertips—to redpoint seven pitches of 5.14, eleven pitches of 5.13, nine pitches of 5.12 and five pitches of 5.11, in sequence from bottom to top without returning to the ground, was far from guaranteed. That’s not even taking into account the variable weather conditions that had to be endured; the challenge of living on the wall for so long; or that several crux sections rely on Birdbeaks placed into thin seams for protection against large falls. All of this adds up to what is probably the most sustained big-wall free climb on the planet.
In 2014, after years of effort and attempts with various partners, Caldwell left the ground with Kevin Jorgeson on December 27. They remained on the wall for nineteen straight days with help from a support team that kept them supplied. On January 14, 2015, the world watched them top out the climb on live television, and President Barack Obama called to congratulate them.
Less than two years later, Adam Ondra became the third person to free the Dawn Wall during his first trip to Yosemite. He completed the climb in an eight-day push with a smaller team supporting him.
Berthe’s journey to send the Dawn Wall began in 2022, when he sailed from Belgium to Mexico and then traveled by land to Yosemite to avoid the carbon footprint of flying. Maintaining an elite level of fitness while confined to a sailboat, and dealing with seasickness for weeks on end, added a huge challenge. He spent twenty-three days on the wall with Siebe Vanhee and made steady progress to the fourteenth pitch, a 5.14d traverse. He felt he was close to sending it, but kept slipping at the end. He ran out of supplies and the desire to continue in such a protracted style.
Last September, he once again sailed from Europe with friends. They used homemade hangboards to train during the fifty-day voyage to the Panama Canal. On land, they spent three weeks on a bus. They arrived in Yosemite in late November, where Berthe rendezvoused with Connor Herson.
Herson was on a break from college and had gotten a head start rigging fixed lines to enable more efficient practice of the moves. Once Berthe arrived, the bulk of the remaining rigging work was split between the two, Herson told me.
“It was really impressive to watch Séb climb. He moves so well on granite and was making 5.14 look easy, even on his first day in the Valley!” said Herson, who free climbed the Nose at age fifteen in 2018. He’s been steadily working through the other El Cap free routes since then.
For most of December, Berthe and Herson worked the route in a cycle of two days on, one day off. In a press release, Berthe wrote:
The Dawn Wall hadn’t changed—it was still an enormous undertaking, and everything about this process was hard: the climbing, the freezing winter temperatures mixed with the heat and sun exposure of this south-facing wall, the constant exposure, the unstable protection, the falling ice …
By late December they were exhausted. Herson had to return to his engineering studies. Berthe’s fitness level had dropped, so he went bouldering in Bishop, California, for a week, then rested for two weeks. He still didn’t feel ready when a window of dry weather entered the forecast and Berthe’s partner, Soline Kentzel, offered to belay him on a redpoint bid.
“To be honest, at that point, I didn’t feel entirely ready for a push attempt,” Berthe wrote. “Although I had successfully done almost all the hard sections, I felt I still had work to do—especially on the post-crux pitches.”
By himself on January 12, Berthe hauls enough food and water for two people to spend two weeks on the wall. In the process of hoisting so much baggage to the portaledge camp below Pitch 14, he injures his back. “I had intense lumbar pain with every movement,” he writes. “It took me four full rest days before I could even think about climbing again.”
He starts his push at 5 a.m. on January 17. The first two days see steady, but not easy, progress. On the first day, on Pitch 7, the first 5.14, he climbs through the cruxes but forgets to clip several pieces of protection: “Now, I’m well above my last piece, a rusty Birdbeak, and I feel exhausted. Falling here is not an option.… I’m completely at my limit. The risk is too high—especially with my back injury starting to hurt again—so, reluctantly, I grab the quickdraw.”
The moment sets the tone for what is to come.
He reaches Pitch 14 on the sixth day of his push. It nearly shuts him down again like in 2022. On Day 7 his back injury hurts too much to climb.
On Day 8, he manages the pain with ibuprofen and resumes climbing, but it’s getting cold: “My toes are freezing in my tight shoes.… Thankfully, Soline, the ultimate belayer, warms them up against her body between tries.” He squeaks through the crux on his tenth try amid falling snow.
On Day 10, he sends the next crux pitch (5.14c/d) on his third try. But he now faces a stack of difficult pitches he didn’t have time to rehearse before leaving the ground. Pitch 16, the Loop Pitch (5.14a), gives him more problems, and his skin starts falling apart.
After a rest day, a big storm is moving in. He has three days to finish the wall. “I decide to bend my ethics a little,” he writes of splitting the down-and-up section into two “5.13d” pitches, using a ledge in between.
He takes a gear-ripping fall on the next pitch. He’s nauseous with a headache. The forecast worsens. “Finishing before the rain seems nearly impossible,” he writes.
On Day 13, Erik Sloan gives Kentzel a break from belaying. Things go better, but six of Berthe’s fingers are bleeding.
To make it off the wall before the storm comes, however, he must climb through the night on Day 14. With Kentzel back at the belay, Berthe scrapes through, exhausted, taking multiple falls, even slipping on a 5.11 offwidth pitch. He sends the last two pitches (5.13a and 5.12a) as dawn breaks and stands on the summit at 8 a.m. on January 31.
Before heading down the East Ledges descent, the team poses with a banner: “El Cap Climbers Against Fascism.”
“Sure, this is ‘just’ a … sporting achievement,” Berthe writes. “[But] silence is complicity; resistance is a duty. What is happening right now in Belgium, France, Europe in general, and the United States is deeply concerning.”
Climbing is just climbing, but it teaches us to overcome barriers and believe in impossible things. Even world freedom, justice, peace and prosperity.
The question is, what are we committed to?
Destinations & Things To Do
Top 5 most booked Asian travel destinations in early 2025 – Moneycontrol
Readers of Outside’s summer skills package: I envy you. As you read stories about starting a fire, or sharpening a knife, and put those lessons into practice, you’re entering an entirely new world full of exciting discoveries, curiosity, and abilities. The process of learning is one that too often feels intimidating. But being bad at stuff isn’t just a necessary part of the skill-learning process; it’s also often the most enjoyable.
One of the things you experience as you learn new skills is freedom. The freedom to be bad at something. Without the weight of other people’s expectations, or pressure to perform, you’re free to simply to focus on the experience.
These days, when I start that fire, or hand someone a knife, there need to be flames and that knife has to be sharp. If there’s not or it isn’t dinner, will be delayed and let downs will be felt. Events will transition from smooth progress into a problem. The time is no longer there for a mistake or an oversight during preparation. But you are given that time try stacking the wood a different way, or going back to your car for a different form of fire starter. Your project can become a fun activity for the entire group. Like solving a jigsaw puzzle with friends—one that won’t be spoiled if you end up serving the hot dogs cold alongside it.
You also get to look at everything in that campsite with fresh eyes. That rock over there? That could help support a fire ring! Will this log light better than another because it feels lighter? That’s discovery. The humble experience of building a campfire feels like nothing but, because it’s exciting and new.
Challenge is a feature in the learning process, not a bug. Shit happens, and learning to deal with it is the learning you need to master a skill. Discovering your firewood got soaked in an overnight downpour is a reminder to store it out of the weather, sure, but it’s also an opportunity to learn to split it open with your knife and expose its dry center. A slip during the process is a chance to practice first aid and a reminder to be a little more careful.
As those lessons add up, you’ll be able to take them further and rely on them more. A simple car camping trip to a site with picnic tables and metal fire rings might feel like a big adventure now, but after making some mistakes in that relatively safe environment, or forgetting to bring something in a place where goods can still be purchased or borrowed, you’ll be equipping yourself with the knowledge you need to scale into new environments that involve more consequence.
A night out in a commercial campground is great. With stars in the sky and marshmallows (hopefully) roasting over a fire, the simple pleasure of time outdoors doesn’t get much more pure. And you have total control over where you take things from there. Want to start that fire away from other people, worn out from walking all day? Maybe you’ll throw on a backpack, learn some lessons about water purification, and start a fire way out in the woods, where you’ll know what kind of sticks to pick up to get one going as easily as possible. Or maybe you’ll push your camping trips further into the fall, when there’s risk of snow, and your newfound ability to ensure everyone can get warm starts to feel less like a novelty and more essential.
As you stare at your campfire, feeling safe and whole inside an unknown environment, you might find yourself contemplating the countless generations of human who have done just that before you. Or maybe even the importance of ensuring future generations will be able to do the same. As the outdoors becomes a part of your life, you may start considering how you can help protect it.
Somewhere between the excitement of that first campfire and forgetting there was a time when you did’t know how to make one, you may also discover a desire to share the experience with other people. To teach them the skills that you learned, and that will bring an excitement all of its own.
Inherent to the task of teaching is the responsibility to keep pursuing mastery—and the opportunity to see the outdoors and all its wonder through a fresh set of eyes. In taking that on, you give yourself a reason to keep learning and keep finding novel solutions, along with the more immediate satisfaction inherent in watching someone learn.
And as you help someone else hone the skills necessary to enjoy the outdoors, you are also creating a fellow traveler. Someone you can enjoy experiencing nature with, of course, but also an ally in helping you protect it. Because, as you learn the skills necessary to go from a novice to an expert, you’re also learning about your own place on this planet and the important role we humans play in nature. It’s a role you now know the importance of fulfilling.
Two summers ago, I was halfway up a screen-strewn slope in California’s Eastern Sierra when I noticed that my shirt was clingy with sweat and my face was the same shade as my dog’s geranium-patterned collar. I made a promise: no more more hikes with the mercury pushing 90; future summer adventure planning would take temperature into serious account
Chasing cooler weather doesn’t have to limit your adventures. In fact, it can lead to some serious finds to add to your list of cool small adventure towns. I’ll be happy every time I throw on a jacket to kayak a glacier-studded lake or count constellations in an inky sky, thinking about the hikes and rides I didn’t have to give up for heat.
Check out these 7 adventure-packed spots where summer temps are unlikely to top 80.
Bar Harbor, Maine
Summer temperatures: mid to high 70s, lows 50-60
Why we love it:
Bar Harbor may be best known as the gateway to Acadia National Park, but from its perch on Mount Desert Island it’s easy to find every kind of coastal adventure. I loved hiking and biking the Schoodic Peninsula and climbing Blue Hill in 82-acre Blue Horizons Preserve, picking as many wild blueberries as I could eat along the trail.
Further away and far from the crowds, Shackford Head and Cobscook Bay state parks offer coastal views and tide pools. In the national park, climb Cadillac Mountain, the northeast’s highest coastal peak, for stunning views of island-dotted Frenchman’s Bay.
I counted a ridiculous number of seals, whales, and glimmering fish on an excursion with Bar Harbor Whale Watch Company and next time plan to paddle around the Porcupine Islands with Coastal Kayaking Tours. Popular bike trails include the Eagle Lake carriage road trail and the gentle loop to Witch Hole Pond.
Where to Eat:
Lobster rolls are a must; my favorites are at Geddy’s and the Thirsty Whale Tavern. The varied breakfast menu at Café This Way, located in a Victorian cottage with lawn seating, includes blueberry pancakes, corned beef hash, and breakfast burritos.
Where to Stay:
The newly restored Little Fig Hotel (rooms from $479) features stylishly decorated rooms with complimentary breakfast in the heart of the old town, while the glamping tents at Terramor Outdoor Resort (rooms from $325) are more luxurious than many hotel rooms. I loved soaking my sore muscles in the hot tub, toasting s’mores around the group campfire, and hearing stories of other guests’ adventures.
Bellingham, Washington
Summer temperatures: low to high mid–70s, lows 50-60
Why we love it:
Located where the Olympic Mountains plunge into Samish Bay, Bellingham became one of the northwest’s top adventure towns with the advent of the Galbraith mountain biking trail network, known for swoopy trails like Mabel’s Monkey Wrench and radical jumps like Double Vision and Air Chair. Dig Deep Tours rents mountain, gravel, and e-bikes with trailside delivery and leads daylong and multi-day bike tours.
Climb 5 miles up the rocky promontory of Oyster Dome for stunning views, then see the bivalves being farmed— and enjoy a few—at Taylor Shellfish Farm. The 6-mile Heliotrope Ridge Trail winds through old-growth forest, opening out for views of Coleman Glacier and Mount Baker.
For a more leisurely outing, ride the 2.6 loop around Lake Padden or head for 240-acre Whatcom Falls Park with its WPA-era stone bridge and take a dip in the swimming hole at Whirlpool Falls.
What to Eat:
Brewpubs are a Bellingham tradition; my favorites are Aslan for its organic brews, Mexican-inspired El Sueñito, and Menace, a low-key neighborhood hangout. DaVinci’s Market is my go-to for to-go breakfasts and sandwiches.
Where to Stay:
It’s easy to get local intel at the hip, but refreshingly unpretentious Heliotrope Hotel (rooms from $169), where gathering spaces include a common room, firepit, and lawn with games. Hotel Leo (rooms from $144), built in 1929, bolsters its historic ambiance with a library complete with pool table and speakeasy-style bar with live music. And there’s a workout room better equipped than many gyms for a pre-adventure warm up.
Crested Butte, Colorado
Summer temperatures: highs 75-78, lows mid-40s
Why we love it:
One of the birthplaces of fat tire mountain biking, Crested Butte’s adventure cred is bolstered by the wild west vibes of the clapboard storefronts and high-ceilinged saloons of its 19th-century mining heyday. The 401 Trail reigns supreme for scenery, rollercoastering over multiple wildflower-blanketed alpine passes. Crested Butte Mountain Resort’s Evolution Bike Park features two double black diamond downhills: Psycho Rocks and Captain Jack.
Hiking trails range from the 9-mile West Maroon Trail over 12,500-foot Maroon Bells Pass, to the relaxed hour-long stroll to Judd Falls. It’s under two miles–with 1200 feet of elevation gain—to the 12,162-foot summit of Crested Butte Mountain to gaze over the Elk Mountains and Gunnison Valley far below. Long-distance trekkers seek out Conundrum Hot Springs, a 17-mile roundtrip.
Paddlers in search of a white water can choose from the class III and IV rapids churning through Cement Creek’s narrow canyons or the gentler surge of the Gunnison River. Come sunset, I love to watch my oars break the glassy mirror of Taylor Reservoir reflecting the surrounding peaks.
Where to Eat:
Patio tables and lighted beer gardens line Crested Butte’s pedestrian-friendly main drag, where Secret Stash serves up creative pizza combos and Bonez grills savory fajitas. And no visit would be complete without an elk burger—I found them equally flavorful at Public House and Elk Avenue Prime.
Where to Stay:
I loved the Nordic feel of the Cristiana Guesthaus (rooms from $196), especially the Swedish dry sauna and outdoor jacuzzi, and the bike and ski storage comes in handy. I also appreciated the hearty breakfast at Old Town Inn (rooms from $239 a night) as well as the friendly welcome for my pup.
Valdez, Alaska
Summer temperatures: Highs mid-50s to mid-60s, lows high 40s to low 50s
Why we love it:
Situated at the mouth of a fjord encircled by the majestic Chugach Mountains, Valdez offers a picturesque gateway to Prince William Sound and its five accessible glaciers. Glacier viewing cruises depart twice a day to the terminus of Columbia Glacier, its sheer ice walls rising 300 feet above the sea, or take a helicopter ride with Alpine Air Alaska and climb on the glacier after heart-stopping helicopter ride. Kayaking Aialik Bay is a bucket list adventure for many; Pangaea Adventures and Anadyr Adventures offer trips of varying lengths and difficulty.
The Mineral Creek Trail climbs for 14 miles up a lush canyon canyon while less challenging trails include Dock Point and Overlook. You can also hike the historic trail of 1899 that led prospectors to the gold fields, passing Valdez Glacier Lake, a prime spot for paddling among freshly calved icebergs.
The Valdez Museum documents the region’s disaster plagued history, which includes surviving an 8.4 earthquake in 1964 and the Exxon Valdez oil spill. Getting around town by bike is easy thanks to the DOT Bike Path, which connects downtown with the Robe River area six miles away.
Where to Eat:
You can’t not go to a place called The Fat Mermaid, the town’s top option in town for vegetarian and plant-forward fare. You’ll also find Po’ Boys and other Cajun specialties at Poor Bettys food truck and a lively crowd sharing local news in the taproom at Growler Bay Brewing.
Where to Stay:
Take advantage of the breakfast buffet and pool at Totem Hotel and Suites (rooms from $340) or the free shuttle offered by Keystone Hotel (rooms from $124.)
Copper Harbor, Michigan
Summer temperatures: highs low 70s to 80, lows 40-55
Why we love it:
Breezes off Lake Superior keep temperatures cool on the Keweenaw Peninsula, which juts off of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Copper Harbor, located on the northern bank, has long been legendary among midwestern mountain bikers for its 40-mile lacework of rock-jumping singletrack. The poster child, Stairway to Heaven, features a series of raised wooden bridges, On the Edge boasts cliff-hugging views, and The Flow is one long smooth descent. Gravel bikers have laid claim to the old logging roads that crisscross the peninsula’s tip.
Hike through verdant forest to the rocky shoreline of Horseshoe Bay at 1200-acre Mary Macdonald Preserve at Horseshoe Harbor or loop among massive Eastern White Pines, some up to 500 years old, in Estivant Pines Nature Sanctuary.
You can paddle the 100-mile Keweenaw Water Trail, which hugs the shore of the so-named peninsula, passing lighthouses, sea caves, and sheltered coves. You can find your own way using a map from the Keweenaw Land Trust, or explore the wildest part of this untamed shoreline on an overnight camping tour with Keweenaw Water Adventures. It’s a three-hour ferry ride to Isle Royale National Park, one of the most isolated in the park system.
Where to eat:
Start your day with a scone or turnover from Jamsen’s Bakery and finish it feasting on Lake Superior whitefish and trout at Harbor Haus or sampling the smoked trout pizza at Mariner North. Just outside Copper Harbor in Eagle River, udon noodles and chickpea tagine share the menu with burgers and mac and cheese at Fitzgerald’s Hotel and Restaurant.
Where to Stay:
A sprawling complex of lodges and cabins, the Bella Vista Motel (rooms from $140) boasts a private dock, while family-run Brockway Inn (rooms from $117) features a popular coffee shop and store for easy outfitting. Or snag one of the historic log cabins at WPA-built Keweenah Mountain Lodge (rooms from $275), where a prime trailhead is steps from your door.
Bandon, Oregon
Summer temperatures: highs mid-60s to low 70s; lows mid-50s
Why we love it:
Sea stacks, cedar-fringed cliffs, and miles of solitary beach in the Bandon State Natural Area make Bandon the perfect Oregon hideaway. Named for its history of prohibition-era whiskey smuggling, the Whiskey Run mountain biking trail network features 64 soft loamy trails covering 32 miles of county-owned forest. Surfers chase the waves at the beach of the same name, part of the Seven Devils State Recreation Area, and I’ve found many a treasure beach combing on its two-mile stretch of driftwood-inflected sand. At low tide, I head for the rocky outcrops at Coquille Point or Face Rock.
The Coquille River Trail links downtown Bandon with the harbor, with more coastal trails winding through the salt marshes of Bandon Marsh National Wildlife Refuge, where I’ve spotted ospreys, loons, kites, and ducks from pintails to mallards.
Where to Eat:
Tony’s Crab Shack is the place to go for the day’s fresh catch, as well as fishing supplies and guidance. Shrimp scampi and Tuscan cacciucco, a seafood stew, are highlights at Allora Wine Bar. I head to Sunnyside Café’s for generous mushroom omelets and bacon veggie hash to fuel up active days.
Where to Stay:
Sunset Oceanfront Lodging (rooms from $145) and Table Rock Inn (rooms from $149) both offer beach access and ocean views. I chose the latter for the chance to have a kitchenette, since I like to fuel up and get an early start. Itty Bitty Inn (rooms from $99) in North Bend has draft beer and cider on tap, free cruiser bikes, and rents mountain bikes on site and guests can book trailhead drop-offs and pick-ups and guided tours.
North Conway, New Hampshire
Summer temperatures: highs: mid-70s to 80; lows high 40s to low 60s
Why we love it:
During summer months, the town of North Conway transforms into a lively home base for hiking, biking and paddling the White Mountains. Trails in the downhill mountain bike park at crange from flowy and beginner-friendly Mainline to thrill-chasing Derailer and Steam Punk. The Marshall Conservation Area features 16 miles of easy to moderate trail, while the Hurricane Mountain Zone is known for jumps, berms, and high-speed descents.
You’ll find waterfalls, swimming holes, and three summits with 360-degree views on the Moat Mountain Trail and steep ascents at Black Cap and Table Mountain while climbers scale Cathedral Ledge and Whitehorse Ledge. River outfitters Saco Bound and Saco Canoe Rental will set you up for kayaking, SUP, canoeing, rafting and tubing including guided day and overnight trips.
Where to Eat:
Shitake mushroom dumplings and Brazilian hanger steak are on the menu at Barley & Salt Taphouse Irish pub May Kelly’s Cottage serves up shepherd’s pie and potato cakes. The seemingly endless breakfast options at 27 North include omelets, benedicts, wraps, breakfast sandwiches, and waffles.
Where to Stay:
Bed down in one of the riverfront cabins at Merrill Farm Inn (rooms from $159) or choose a bunk or private room with shared bath at Coho Hostel (beds from $20; private rooms from $130), which also offers suites for families and larger groups.
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