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Day 34: Slug water & Road beers

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It felt like the trail’s been taking, but it gave back tenfold today. My day was full and wide and left me inspired, though sore. 

We woke up determined to make up the miles we’d missed the day prior due to thunder storms. 

We decided to hike a minimum of 31 miles. 

We woke up early enough to catch the sunrise. I’d been justifying my late starts for weeks now, but, staring down a glowy mountain pass I could no longer deny the truth I’d always known; alpine starts are the way. 

sunrise

We climbed up a scree-ey ridge in a pleasantly cool weather window. No sun beating down our backs, yet. 

We eventually made our way to a dirt road that would lead us to an important spring, the first water in 10 miles. We found a cairn and wandered through a bog looking for the water source before realizing the bog was the source. 

I filtered my water, chugging greedily without looking closely as we charged down trail. I stopped to examine my bottle and noticed something small and brown swimming around. 

Reader, there was a live slug in my bottle. There were no nearby water sources, so Beaker helped me remove the slug and I, unfortunately, had to keep drinking from it. 

not thriving with my slug water

As we walked the dirt road, a camper van pulled over offering us cold beers from the window. The older couple pulled over, offering us two cold glasses and waited for us to finish them to take the glass back. 

“I used to be like you” the man said, gesturing to our packs. He told us he’d hiked a portion of the Appalachian Trail in the 90’s. He marveled at our light gear and trail shoes, remarking how far gear has advanced since he backpacked. 

Because we were slightly calorie deprived, and very dehydrated, the single beers had us feeling tipsier than anticipated. 

I felt grateful for the mixed terrain when we made it back to trail. Some road walking, combined with rolling green pastures and towering forested passes made for a beautiful, interesting day. 

22 miles into the day we were staring down a dirt road that looked to be about ninety degrees. 

“Do we go up that…?” I asked Beaker. 

“Oh yeah.” he said. 

The climbing lasted for what felt like forever, and I was rethinking our resolve to hike so many miles. 

At the top of the climb we sat to eat cold ramen. I could feel my body/tendons stiffen the longer I sat, but the food revived me and I felt ready to follow true on our promise of big miles. 

The push was worth it. We hiked green pastures beside curious cows, the sky turning bright orange and casting interesting hues against layers of mountains surrounded us on all sides. 

bye, sun

The sun made its languid exit, and we had about 5 miles of night hiking ahead of us. We pulled out our headlamps and it occurred to me I hadn’t checked the battery on my lamp in months!

We entered a dark forest that felt still in the quiet of night. 

“I forgot night hiking’s kind of scary” Beaker said. I laughed, as I’d been thinking the same thing. 

We decided to make it to the next water source, which would cap our day at 35 miles. We exited the forest, finding ourselves beneath an open and starry sky. We saw the shadowy outline of looming mountains in the darkness around the sage field we stood in. 

We set up our tent in the only flat spot we could find. My legs twitched as I lay on my sleeping pad, lids closing quickly. I listened to the crickets and felt proud. Like if I could trust myself to follow through on 35 miles, I could trust myself to do anything. 

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20 Under-the-Radar Destinations in Japan

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Luxury travelers to Japan often stick to well-known destinations: Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Niseko for skiing. But there are hidden gems all over the country. High-end hotels and ryokans (Japanese inns) that cater to the domestic market have been built in rural areas and tiny villages—and rarely get international travelers. Here are 20 lesser-known towns, prefectures, and islands in Japan with top-tier accommodations and authentic experiences . 

The coastline of Atami City.

Sean Pavone/iStockphoto/Getty Images


Atami

This coastal town is known for its beaches in the summer and onsens (hot spring baths) in the winter. It’s home to Atami Kaihourou, a four-room luxury resort with a stunning glass design by renowned architect Kengo Kuma.

Awaji Island

In Japanese mythology, Awaji was believed to be the first island created by the gods. Visitors today can tour the island’s many structures and gardens designed by Kuma and Tadao Ando, another famous Japanese architect. Awaji Hamarikyu, a vintage western-style beachfront resort, is beloved by Japanese families. 

Chiba

This small city is the eponymous capital of Chiba Prefecture, known for its charming canals lined with cute little shops and cafés. Stay in Nipponia Sawara Merchant Town Hotel, a centuries-old merchant’s house.

Dazaifu

Looking for a short trip outside of Fukuoka? Visit the Dazaifu Tenmangu Shinto shrine. Walk around the stunning gardens and grounds, and then stay at Cultia Dazaifu right across the street.

Gotō Islands

These islands off the coast of Kyushu are dotted with dozens of historic small churches built by early Christians fleeing the shogunate. Book a room at the Gotō Retreat Ray for a wellness-focused stay. 

Hamamachi

Onyado Fukuchiyo—one of Japan’s finest sake breweries—has its own fabulous two-bedroom villa here. Don’t skip the sake pairing with your kaiseki dinner.

Izu Peninsula

Ochiairo, a hot-spring inn built in 1874, can be found along a riverbank in this picturesque mountain landscape.

A shopping street in Karuizawa.

Cassandra Lord/iStockphoto/Getty Images


Karuizawa

Known as “The Hamptons of Japan”, Tokyoites spend weekends here soaking in the onsens and hiking through the mountains. High-end accommodations include Hoshinoya Karuizawa, Hiramatsu Karuizawa Miyota and Fufu Karuizawa.

Kirishima

Book your stay at Tenku No Mori, 150-acre mountaintop retreat with just 5 villas in this nature-filled area. Each villa is made of glass and has its own private onsen.

Kinosaki

The main activity in this ultimate onsen town is hot spring-hopping in your yukata (a light weight kimono). Stay at Nishimuraya Honkan.

Kumano

After hiking along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trails, unwind at the Resort Kumano Club, a 38-room all-inclusive stay with unlimited beer and sake.

A canal in Kurashiki.

Korekore/iStockphoto/Getty Images


Kurashiki

I call this charming town the “Bruges of Japan” for its narrow streets, cute bridges and canals, and world-class art museums. Ryokan Kurashiki is a tiny gem of a ryokan.

Lake Kawaguchiko

Hiking, biking, boating, and wine tasting are some of the popular activities in this resort town. I love staying at either Hoshinoya Fuji or Fufu Kawaguchiko , and waking up with Mount Fuji directly in front of me 

Lake Shikotsu

I visit this lake during the summer to escape the heat and stay at Mizu no Uta, conveniently located near Sapporo’s New Chitose airport.

Shodoshima

The Setouchi Triennale Art Festival is held every three years on this island, but it’s a wonderful destination to visit at any time for its olive trees and soy sauce factories. Shimayado Mari is my preferred ryokan here.

Matsuyama

Setouchi Aonagi—originally designed by Tadao Ando as a private museum—is now a hotel with extraordinary architecture in this castle town that claims the oldest onsen in Japan.

Mount Zaō

Visit this range of volcanic mountains for its exciting views and outdoor activities, then stay in Chikusenso Mt. Zao Onsen Resort and Spa

Naruto

The Shikoku Pilgrimage, which includes 88 temples, starts here. Stay at Hotel Ridge, an 11-room luxury hotel with views of Naruto Bridge and Awaji Island.

Uda

Spend a night at Sasayuri-Ann, a 200-year-old thatched-roof villa overlooking tranquil rice terraces in this small town in Nara Prefecture.

The Sankara Hotel & Spa in Yakushima.

Sankara Hotel & Spa


Yakushima Island

Book a room at Sankara Hotel & Spa on this island known for its sacred forest of 1,000-year-old sugi cedar trees.

Catherine Heald is a member of Travel + Leisure’s A-List and specializes in trips to Japan and Southeast Asia. You can create a tailor-made itinerary with Heald at [email protected].



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Hiking with Hykes social media helps followers explore Ohio nature

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  • Riley and Trevor Hykes are a married social media team who post hiking and adventure content.
  • The two advocate for followers to experience the natural beauty around them.
  • They aim to post on their socials every day, making videos and posting breathtaking photos.

“This is everyone’s space,” content creator, Riley Hykes, told a passing hiker on the Ledges Trail who had paused while she and her husband, Trevor Hykes, set up their tripod camera to take photos and videos for their social media @hikingwithhykes.

The Hykes, a married-duo who have gained a following on Instagram, Facebook and other sites, carry a backpack full of camera equipment on their hikes to make Ohio and Midwest hiking and adventure content for their social media.

But the couple firmly believes that the trails and outdoor spaces are for everyone and advocate for their followers to take advantage of the local beauty and diverse experiences available to them.

“I grew up in Ohio, so I know the mindset is the only thing to do in Ohio is leave,” Trevor, originally from Youngstown, explained, highlighting a common mantra for many Ohio natives.

“There’s so much to do here that you don’t realize because you’ve been told that your entire life,” Trevor, 24, said. “So you just kind of believe it.”

How @hikingwithhykes was born

Both University of Akron alumni, the couple met in college, where Riley, originally from Pittsburgh, studied civil engineering and Trevor studied financial management.

After graduation in 2021, Riley moved to Charlotte, North Carolina. Trevor began the account — @hikingwithhykes — in February 2023 to hold himself accountable for getting back into some of his old hobbies like hiking and photography. Riley, who used social media in a similar way to hold herself accountable for half-marathon training, loved the idea.

“When you’re like saying to a whole bunch of people, ‘Hey, I’m gonna go do this.’ Showing up for it online — it’s just another check of here I am showing up,” Riley, 27, said.

Now, they take their camera with them on hikes and trips to make content to post. They aim to post every single day. They have gained nearly 100k followers on Instagram and over 200k followers on Facebook.

When Trevor would visit Riley in Charlotte, they would check our nearby hiking spots, making Riley a regularly scheduled addition to the account.

“So it was Hiking with Trevor Hykes, and then I would just be the camera girl in some ways,” Riley said. “Not that I’m that good at being the camera girl,” she added, laughing.

When Riley moved back to Copley with Trevor in June 2024, Hiking with Hykes became a couple account.

Finding time for it all

While Riley works as a construction manager, Trevor recently quit his job in finance to do social media full time. To keep up with their work, social media and their lives, they schedule their time carefully to squeeze it all in.

“If you really want to do something, you’ll find the time to do it,” Trevor said. “So it’s kind of just prioritizing, when are we going to travel and then when are we going to find the time to make all the content that we post.”

Though Trevor initially focused on photography, he and Riley have created an entire network of hikingwithhykes content, including blogs, newsletters, Instagram reels, YouTube videos and more.

They have learned a lot along the way.

When they got started, Trevor said they were recording basically the entire hike, leaving them tired and not enjoying their experience.

Now, they figure out what shots they want, get their content quickly and then relax and enjoy the rest of the hike, taking the time to get away.

Every time they finish getting their content, Riley and Trevor take a few minutes to pause and enjoy the scenery and the moment — acting as a buffer between the work and the relaxation on the hike.

“A lot of times I feel like I remember them more,” Riley said. “Because we’re visualizing shots, we’re looking at what would be cinematic, and then also taking in how beautiful these spaces are, and finding beauty in trees and pathways.”

Riley said she appreciates that taking pictures and videos while on her adventures with Trevor helps her to remember the beauty and her experiences.

What are the local advantages of Northeast Ohio adventure?

In October 2024, Riley and Trevor eloped in Kanab, Utah, with just their immediate families in the middle of a family vacation. They visited Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks, a couple of the Grand Staircase of Escalante lakes and the Coral Pink Sand Dunes — where they had their ceremony.

While the two love finding solitude and adventure in the expansive U.S. West, they agree local, urban parks, like the Cuyahoga Valley National Park, have something to offer that larger parks can’t.

“One of the coolest features about the CVNP is you don’t have to drive an hour outside the park to go to really great local businesses and restaurants and enjoy a full experience,” Riley said.

She referenced her own family, who enjoys hiking but doesn’t want to do it all day. She said the beautiful part about CVNP is the outstanding nature that is so accessible for people in nearby cities.

Some of their favorite local favorites are Handel’s Homemade Ice Cream, Portal West Coffee and Peninsula Coffee House — all less than a 15 minute drive outside the park.

Ohio through the seasons

The two find it easy to fall in love with Ohio. Riley’s favorite time of year in the CVNP is fall, but she has a soft spot for summer.

“I think Ohio summers always trick me and be like, I love Ohio so much,” she said. “It’s just a extra love for Ohio in the middle of summer.”

Since the two still need to make content in the winter, their social media has challenged them to bundle up and still do their favorite hikes in the snowy months, Trevor said. It has given them a chance to see the spaces in a different light and enjoy the natural beauty differently through each season.

“You can see animals and stuff really well in the snow,” Trevor said.

“And the frozen waterfalls are always the best,” Riley gushed.

Making time for weekend travel

The Hykes — self-described “weekend warriors” — also try to make the time to explore outside of the local area and outside of Ohio as much as they can.

A few of their driving-distance favorites are Hocking Hills State Park in southern Ohio, Letchworth State Park in upstate New York and the Finger Lakes region.

Most recently, they went on a longer trip to Glacier, Grand Tetons and Yellowstone National Parks, resulting in series on their pages about travel tips for out-West travelers.

To keep their trips affordable, Riley and Trevor try to car-camp with an air mattress in the back of their SUV. Campgrounds usually provide the most affordable lodging, they’ve found, so they tend to opt for that.

“It’s taking that opportunity on a Friday night, driving to the location you want to be at for that weekend,” Riley said. “A lot of people struggle with that idea, but in my opinion, it’s very worth the opportunities to go ahead and go for a weekend adventure.”



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Move Over, Florence: The North American Destination That Outranks Italy’s Perennial Favorite In New List

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Florence, Italy

(Davide Seddio/ Getty Images
)

No matter which of its nicknames you call it, from “La Bella” (The Beautiful) to the “Capital of Artists” or even “The Cradle of the Renaissance,” “La Città Gigliata” (The City Of The Lily), there’s no disputing Florence, Italy’s long-standing place as one of the world’s top global travel destinations. Michelangelo’s “David”? Check. Botticelli’s “Birth of Venus”? Yup. Gorgeous history, architecture and good weather? Triple check. Not to mention the food …

For all of Florence’s many charms, however, its reputation among travellers appears to be slipping. In the 2025 edition of global travel publication Travel + Leisure’s annual “World’s Best Awards,” which is determined based on voting by international tourists, La Bella has fallen out of the top five. Here are two destinations that outrank it on this year’s list, both of which may fly a little lower under the radar (and one of which doesn’t require crossing an ocean to visit, for those of us in the U.S.).

Jaipur, India

Exterior of the Hawa Mahal or The palace of winds in Jaipur.

(Witthaya Prasongsin/ Getty Images
)

Beating Florence (which ranks sixth on this year’s list) for the number five spot this year is Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, India. Full of ornate, honeycomb-inspired palaces and towering forts, Jaipur is, quite simply, an architectural marvel. Founded in 1727, it was one of India’s first planned cities. It received the nickname “The Pink City” in the 1800s due to its distinctive rose-colored sandstone buildings (legend has it that none other than Prince Albert gave it that nickname).

Aerial view of Jaipur from Nahargarh Fort at sunset

(Witthaya Prasongsin/ Getty Images)

Beyond its architectural marvels, Jaipur features legendary city markets and bazaars. Renowned as a global center for gemstone cutting and trading (particularly for emeralds), the city’s streets are alive with bustle and traditional craft workshops where travellers are able to watch master craftsmen at work. Travel + Leisure also praises the city’s opulent hotels, world-class shopping, and vibrant cultural heritage.

San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

Aerial View of San Miguel de Allende

(ferrantraite/ Getty Images
)

Topping Travel + Leisure’s list this year is a destination a little closer to those of us in the U.S.: Mexico’s San Miguel de Allende. The city’s historic center, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008, showcases gorgeous 16th-18th century baroque and neoclassical buildings with their characteristic pink limestone facades and wrought-iron balconies. Cobblestone streets run through oft-photographed marvels such as the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, whose iconic pink neo-Gothic facade was designed by Zeferino Gutiérrez in the 1880s and 1890s. The city center was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.

Located about four hours northwest of Mexico City, San Miguel de Allende was lauded by Travel + Leisure voters for its unique cultural atmosphere and affordability. Some key factors that survey participants cited for the city’s popularity were centrally located museums, botanical gardens, a vibrant arts scene and a packed calendar of annual cultural events.

Celebration of a traditional festival in San Miguel de Allende Zocalo area

(©fitopardo/ Getty Images
)

Finally, of course, there’s the weather. With an elevation of 6,200 feet, San Miguel de Allende has a temperate climate all year round. The hottest time of year to visit is May, when the average monthly high is 85, with an average low of 55. The coldest time, on the other hand, is January, when the monthly high is 72 and the average low is 40.



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