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Part Twenty-One: Good Ol’ New Mexico

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*Hoooooooonk hooooooonk*

The old iron machine let out a loud whistle that echoed through the high country. A few moments later, it appeared around the bend, steam hissing like the breath from a giant beast. 

This was the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad, a narrow-gauge relic of the West that still ran strong, carving its 64-mile path between Antonito, CO and Chama, NM. It crossed the Cumbres Pass at over 10,000 feet, where weary thru-hikers could flag it down for a ride into Chama to resupply.

I boarded one of the weathered passenger cars, all worn wood and echoes of the past, and watched the land unfold from my window as the train snaked through the towering cliffs of Toltec Gorge.

Crossing into New Mexico that day, it wasn’t my boots that touched the border, but steel wheels on an iron track. Still, the transition felt just as real. Two days later, I’d return to that very spot and walk across the line myself.

There was a calm in me now, a quiet kind of triumph. The hardest part was behind me, or so they said. New Mexico would be gentler, easier on the feet. I held onto that hope as I stared out across the open land, feeling – for the first time in a while – like maybe I could breathe.

 

I. Four Down, One To Go

Thursday, October 10th

I shouldered my pack and crossed town, looking for a way back to the trail. A car rolled up beside me. Jean, an old man, leaned out his window. He told me he drove to the mountains most days just to see the land. Said it gave him peace. He offered me a lift to Cumbres Pass. I climbed in and we rode in silence, the kind you don’t need to fill with words.

As the tires hummed along the road, I looked out at the trees, the creeks, the birds flashing between branches. These sounds, these smells, this world I’d come to live inside – they would all become memories soon enough. A month or so more and they’d be behind me. I couldn’t quite picture what came next, but that was fine. It wasn’t time yet. I had a whole state still to cross.

Back at the pass, I started walking. The trail was, as expected, kinder under my feet – gentle grades, soft tread. I climbed easily and soon reached the New Mexico border. My fist rose into the air, and I shouted, “Yes!” just to hear it echo through the trees.

One more state. One last chapter. Seven hundred and seventy miles to go. The end didn’t feel so far now. It felt like I could almost touch it.

The land began to shift around me – greener fading into gold, alpine giving way to the edges of the desert. I passed cows scattered like puzzle pieces across the land. I caught up to “Korn” again, a surprise to us both.

“You walked fast today!” he told me. I hadn’t heard that in a while. 

The sun slipped down behind the trees, casting long shadows across the dirt road. I walked on, enjoying it. Then, all at once, a herd of elk bounded across the trail ahead of me – silent, magnificent. I watched until the last one vanished into the brush.

I reached camp in the dark, the lights of Antonito a faint shimmer on the horizon. Overhead, a half-moon lit the sky like a lantern. I was in New Mexico.

Morning came wrapped in cold air and a sky still full of stars. On the horizon, orange crept in slowly. I hiked out before dawn. The forest was silent until suddenly, I startled a herd of elk deep in the woods. They ran away through the trees, causing the earth to tremble.

Later, on a dirt road, a man in a truck pulled up and asked if I “got anything,” eyeing my camera. I asked what he meant, puzzled. He nodded toward the camera. “Thought that was a rifle.” I chuckled. “Got a few good shots,” I told him, jokingly. Not the kind he meant, but true all the same.

Most of the trees stood bare now, waiting for winter. The hike that day was dull, but easy, and I wouldn’t complain. The trail wandered through cow pastures where the animals looked at me with wide, uncertain eyes.

Later, an ATV rolled up carrying a man and his wife. He owned the land I’d just walked through. He was out searching for 60 missing cows and said the rest had already headed down to the low country. He handed me a beer and two beef sticks and I asked him about cattle prices. I was stunned. “A calf goes for twenty-four hundred. A grown cow, maybe three grand.” I wished him luck in his search, then sat down in the sun and drank my beer.

Korn caught up while I sipped. We hiked on, leapfrogging one another. My foot ached by the end of the day, but I’d covered good ground. I read journal entries from the PCT, a year ago – twenty-five, even twenty-seven-mile days. I laughed at that version of myself. This trail was wilder, rougher – and I was slower.

The night had been good to me. I woke before the sun, rested and ready. All night long, elk called out into the dark, and geese sang their strange, wild songs. The air was crisp, and I moved fast, making eight miles before nine.

The terrain was much like yesterday’s – open, dry, a little dull, but my foot didn’t bother me and that lifted my mood. I passed three bikepackers I’d met the night before. We traded waves. I took a shortcut that shaved off a few miles, and with the strength I had, I decided to keep going, pushing closer to Ghost Ranch.

At the last water source, the bikepackers showed up again, impressed with my pace. I won’t lie – it felt good. I did not need applause, but after struggling for so long on this trail, it helped me push just a little farther.

Gunshots cracked in the distance as I moved on. Hunters, no doubt. I hoped their vision was good – or their aim was poor.

The landscape opened wide around me. I passed the bikepackers one last time, setting up camp beside the trail. I kept pressing on until I hit a junction and called it good. Only twenty miles left to Ghost Ranch now. A solid day’s work.

 

II. Ghost Ranch

I woke warm. The kind of warm that sticks to your muscles and makes your body move like it wants to.

The sun rose slow, soft gold on fields of cattle and dew. I was still waiting for the desert to show itself, but I could feel it coming. It was close now.

I reached the Ghost Ranch alternate junction and filled up on water. Korn was there. We shared a few words, then I continued down the dirt road, head down, eyes forward.

Then came the canyon.

A narrow track dove down into walls of red and orange sandstone. On my right rose a great wall – the same I had half-seen in the Bob Marshall Wilderness a few months back, but New Mexico style. I’d finally arrived in the desert. And somehow, it felt like coming home.

Cactus and sage, orange cliffs and sand underfoot. I made it to Ghost Ranch, a spiritual retreat center, by mid-afternoon. I checked in and wandered the grounds. They’d filmed some of my favorite movies here – Silverado, 3:10 to Yuma, Hostiles, Oppenheimer. Georgia O’Keeffe, famous American painter, had called this place home once.

I set up at the campground. Korn rolled in not long after. We both took showers, washed our trail-worn clothes, and then sat down to dinner with an Australian woman who’d done the PCT and came here for a workshop.

I feasted on tacos and cookies, as the sun fell behind the red stone.

I was in New Mexico now. And the border was calling.





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Destinations & Things To Do

Chasing the Sun and New Horizons: Top Summer Destinations of 2025

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By Menna Saad El Din
Summer 2025 is in full swing, and travelers are more eager than ever to explore. This year’s trends reveal a fascinating mix of classic favorites and emerging “hidden gems,” with a strong emphasis on immersive cultural experiences, outdoor adventures, and a growing desire for sustainable and value-driven travel.

For those dreaming of European escapes, the classics remain eternally popular. France continues to draw crowds with its timeless allure, from the romantic charm of Paris to the sun-drenched lavender fields of Provence and the glamorous French Riviera. Italy is another perennial favorite, with travelers indulging in its rich history, culinary delights, and stunning landscapes, whether exploring ancient Rome, the canals of Venice, or the dramatic beauty of the Amalfi Coast. Greece, particularly its iconic islands, also maintains its strong appeal for those seeking sun, history, and vibrant Mediterranean culture.

However, a standout destination this summer is undoubtedly Portugal. The country has emerged as a truly hot spot, appealing to a wide range of travelers. From its iconic cities to its stunning coastline and charming hidden corners, Portugal offers an incredible blend of experiences.

Lisbon, the vibrant capital, enchants with its historic charm, colorful neighborhoods, and iconic yellow trams, while Porto captivates with its rich history, delicious wine, and picturesque riverside. Beyond the major hubs, the Algarve continues to be a draw for its golden beaches and dramatic cliffs, perfect for a relaxing seaside escape. Portugal’s appeal also extends beyond the well-known. Madeira, often called “The Floating Garden of the Atlantic,” is gaining significant traction for its lush landscapes, invigorating hiking trails, and a year-round spring-like climate, ideal for nature lovers.

Beyond Europe, several other destinations are making a significant splash this summer. Vietnam has seen a remarkable surge in interest, captivating travelers with its UNESCO World Heritage sites, breathtaking natural beauty, and rich cultural tapestry, from bustling cities to serene bays.

Mauritius is trending as a top choice for a luxurious tropical paradise, with its pristine beaches and diverse biodiversity. For those seeking “reversed summer” adventures, Queenstown, New Zealand, is the go-to for outdoor enthusiasts, offering skiing, bungee jumping, hiking, and stunning scenery amidst the Southern Alps.

This summer, the trend is towards more meaningful and diverse travel. Travelers are increasingly prioritizing experiences that connect them with local communities, embrace slower paces, and offer opportunities for mental and physical wellness. Whether you’re yearning for classic European charm, exotic Asian adventures, or the captivating allure of New Zealand, Summer 2025 is proving to be a season of diverse and enriching travel, inviting everyone to discover their perfect escape.



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Destinations & Things To Do

Spain’s Domestic Travel Surge: Top National Destinations for July Long Weekend

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Spain’s domestic travel surge has taken center stage this July, as Spanish residents opt overwhelmingly for getaways within their own borders. Fueled by the long weekend around July 25, traditionally marked by the Feast of Saint James, travel activity is peaking from major hubs like Madrid, Galicia, and the Basque Country.

According to booking insights from online travel giant eDreams, sun-drenched coastal spots and vibrant cities are attracting the lion’s share of attention. The data reveals strong interest in both traditional beach retreats and cultural urban escapes, reflecting a summer trend that blends relaxation with exploration.

Beachfront Bliss and Urban Adventures Dominate the Weekend

Coastal Escapes Lead the Rankings

As temperatures rise and vacation days align with the extended weekend, destinations like Palma de Mallorca, Tenerife, Ibiza, Málaga, Menorca, Alicante, and Gran Canaria top the list for domestic beach travel. These locations remain perennial favorites thanks to their combination of warm climates, iconic coastlines, and dynamic leisure offerings.

eDreams data points to a strong correlation between city of departure and destination type. Travelers from Madrid and northern Spain are most drawn to coastal locales, looking to unwind along the Balearic and Canary Islands or on the Mediterranean coast.

City Breaks Still in High Demand

Major cities aren’t left behind. Madrid, Barcelona, Valencia, and Sevilla continue to draw visitors seeking culture, cuisine, and history. These urban destinations are ideal for travelers seeking quick yet enriching weekend trips without leaving the country.

This urban trend underlines the growing popularity of short-format travel that combines accessibility with rich cultural experiences — ideal for the limited timeframe of a holiday bridge.

Where Travelers Are Coming From — and Going

Key Departures and Arrivals

The long weekend holiday sees travelers departing primarily from Santiago de Compostela, La Coruña, Vigo, Madrid, and Bilbao. The same cities — especially those in Galicia — are also receiving a notable influx of travelers, with Santiago de Compostela emerging as a significant hub due to its religious and historical significance during the Feast of Saint James.

Visitors enjoying the thermal pools at Termas de Outariz in Spain

In fact, the influx of domestic and international tourists to Galicia underscores the symbolic and cultural importance of this region during late July. International visitors also show interest, with travelers from Germany, the United Kingdom, and France arriving to take part in the festivities and summer atmosphere.

Top Destinations Based on eDreams Bookings

Top National Destinations Top International Destinations
Palma de Mallorca Paris
Tenerife London
Ibiza Lisbon
Málaga Rome
Madrid
Barcelona

Planning Ahead or Booking Last-Minute?

Booking Habits Vary by Region

One of the more revealing trends from the eDreams analysis is the mixed approach to planning. While some travelers booked their trips more than two months in advance, others waited until just weeks — or even days — before departure.

For instance, 46% of travelers headed to Vigo and 39% of those traveling to La Coruña made their reservations within the last month. Meanwhile, a more organized 25% of visitors to Bilbao and Santiago de Compostela had confirmed plans over two months prior.

Spain’s Vigo port with Cíes Islands

Short-Term and Spontaneous Travel on the Rise

This dual behavior reflects a broader shift in travel habits, where flexibility is key. With platforms like eDreams offering dynamic packages and real-time availability, travelers are empowered to make quick decisions without sacrificing choice or quality.

Whether meticulously planned or spontaneously booked, the July long weekend proves that Spain’s passion for local travel remains strong. From serene coastlines to buzzing cities, domestic destinations are thriving this season.



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Where are these tastemakers travelling to this summer? – Emirates Woman

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In this Wanderlust feature, we ask five tastemakers what their summer plans are. From revealing their top travel wishlist destinations, to insights on what their summer travelling plans looks like, these ladies take us on a journey into a high-summer. Along with picturesque travel inspo, they also reveal what they’re packing for their trips – for the ultimate summer inspo guide.

Her Excellency Khawla Al Serkal | Director General – Sharjah Ladies Club (Slc)

This is The Travel Issue – which locations are top of your travel list?

Cannes, Lugano, and Lake Como are at the top of my travel list. Cannes is always captivating – with its effortless blend of elegance, seaside charm, and cultural vibrancy, it’s the perfect place to immerse myself in art, film, and French Riviera glamour. Lugano offers a peaceful escape where Swiss precision meets Italian soul – its lakeside beauty and Alpine views make it a serene yet sophisticated destination. And Lake Como, with its timeless romance, historic villas, and calm waters, is simply a dream. Together, these places reflect the kind of travel I love – elegant, inspiring, and deeply rejuvenating.

Where will you be travelling to this summer?

This summer, I’ll be travelling to a few favourite destinations, but one that’s become a cherished yearly tradition is our family trip to Évian, France. Tucked between the Alps and Lake Geneva, Évian offers the perfect balance of nature, tranquility, and wellness. It’s a peaceful escape where the kids can enjoy the outdoors, and I can unwind in the crisp mountain air. From lakefront walks to fresh local cuisine, it’s a place that feels both grounding and rejuvenating. It’s not just a getaway – it’s a summer ritual that brings us together as a family in the most meaningful way.

Mona Bin Kalli | Entrepreneur

This is The Travel Issue – which locations are top of your travel list?

My favourite summer destination is Sardinia in Italy. The coastline is breathtaking with crystal clear emerald water. The entire island is stunning!

Where will you be travelling to this summer?

This summer I’ll be travelling to London, Paris and hopefully make it to Sardinia, which is my birthday ritual.

Jihane El Alaoui | Content Creator

This is The Travel Issue – which locations are top of your travel list?

London, Mykonos, Bodrum, Paris and Courchevel are on top of my travel list at the moment. I can’t wait to visit these destinations!

Where will you be travelling to this summer?

This summer, I’ll be travelling across Bodrum and Mykonos for a beautiful coastal escape. I might also head to the Maldives at the end of my trip.

Latifa Al Shamsi | Beauty & Fashion Content Creator

This is The Travel Issue – which locations are top of your travel list?

Japan and Morocco are currently at the top of my list. I love Japan for its unique blend of tradition and innovation – and Morocco for its colours, culture, and timeless charm. Both inspire me creatively in very different ways.

Where will you be travelling to this summer?

This summer is a beautiful mix of familiar favourites and new adventures. I’ll be spending time in Bodrum, Egypt, and Lebanon. And for a family escape, we’re still deciding – but it’s likely to be somewhere vibrant and exciting in Asia.

Natasha Oakley | Founder – Monday Swimwear

This is The Travel Issue – which locations are top of your travel list?

Dubai had been at the top of my list before this year. I’d visited when I was younger, but this January was my first time returning, and it was such a special trip. I absolutely loved my time there – it was even more meaningful because we were there with Monday Swimwear to celebrate our launch on Ounass. Next on my list is Africa. I’ve been dreaming of going on safari for as long as I can remember. I’d also love to explore South Africa – it’s been high on my list for years and I hope to make it happen soon.

Where will you be travelling to this summer?

I’m actually in the middle of my summer travels now. We started our trip in Paris, and I’ve spent the past few weeks in Greece, mixing work and leisure. My husband is Greek and we love coming back each year – this time we’ve had the chance to explore even more of the country. Devin, my best friend and business partner, has been with me the whole time as well, and we’ll be wrapping up this leg of the trip together at the end of our time in Greece. Italy is always calling us back – it’s probably our favourite destination. My husband and I got engaged in Capri three years ago and married there two years ago, so it holds a very special place in our hearts. We’ll be visiting Capri again this year, as well as Ischia and the Amalfi Coast. Usually we’d stay a little longer, but I’m heading back earlier than usual because we’re opening our very first Monday Swimwear store in Beverly Hills in mid-July. It’s such a huge moment for us, and I can’t wait.

– For more on luxury lifestyle, news, fashion and beauty follow Emirates Woman on Facebook and Instagram





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