Planning a food-themed trip in Europe is one of the continent’s greatest joys. From Copenhagen’s world-renowned Nordic cuisine to Turkey’s transcontinental flavours, Europe’s best foodie destinations are as diverse as the continent’s many cultures.
Choosing where to chow down on your travels, though, is a challenge. Some of the most beloved food cities in Europe, such as Paris and Barcelona, are long-standing classics. Yet, Europe’s up-and-coming culinary destinations can be as surprising as they are affordable.
With the first Portugal-dedicated MICHELIN Guide being published in 2024, Copenhagen’s game-changing Noma set to close its doors sometime soon, and Lithuania’s unsung cuisine commanding a spotlight at Vilnius’ recently established Pink Soup Fest, 2025 could be the year to consider a lesser-visited foodie region for your European gastronomic getaway.
Whether you want to indulge in a Georgian feast and thousands of years of viticulture or take a French food tour far from Paris, these are some of Europe’s best food cities and regions to build your next delicious trip around.
Plating up seasonal dishes at dreizehn by Gauster in Graz
Graz, Austria
Graz is Austria’s GenussHauptstadt, which translates to Capital of Pleasure, or more accurately, Capital of Culinary Delight. Set in the lower, southern, fertile farmlands of Steiermark (Styria), grazing here is seasonal, fresh, and fantastically well-presented. Sure, you can feast your way through all the typical, hearty Austrian staples like schnitzel – served with a Styrian, pumpkin-seed breaded twist – but countless restaurants are serving up consistently excellent contemporary takes and international cuisines and the chefs themselves take farm-to-fork to another level. Seriously, in all my visits, I’ve never had anything remotely close to a bad meal.
But Austria, a serious contender for Europe’s best food destination? I hear you cry. 100%. This is a city that’s closer to Slovenia and Italy than the Western Alps. And it’s a city where sustainability is baked in, rather than a last-minute pre-serving sprinkling. There’s even an endangered-butterfly-harbouring urban winery, Falter Ego, producing on the city’s slopes. But what makes Graz one of Europe’s best food cities is its commitment to provincial production. Whole menus here are dedicated solely to Styrian and seasonal products, and the flavours are all the more sensational for it. Sitting down to dine and seeing the names of the farmers, pastures and even the cooperative who made the baskets in which the region’s signature backhendl (fried chicken) is served listed on the menu is more than just reassuring – it’s an unwavering commitment to quality more chefs should strive for.
Must-try dishes and restaurants in Graz
Elevating farm-to-fork into market-to-meal, Genießerei am Markt is my latest Graz obsession. This small, cabin-like restaurant in the corner of one of the city’s central farmers’ markets is helmed by Chef Alexander Posch, who is hotly tipped to be soon crowned a Michelin-starred chef. His 10-course tasting menus utilise ingredients mainly from the market out front – the affordable, lunch menu only sources from the stands – and it’s phenomenal. One of the best meals of my life. Best of all, Graz’s markets aren’t merely for picking up the farmers’ freshest, they are also a social hub with overspilling bars and occasionally even salsa classes.
For a traditional dinner, head to the intimate, candlelit Mohrenwirt, where the menu details suppliers, right down to the prized Styrian pumpkin seed oil, which is ubiquitous around here. Or work your way through the no-waste mezze feast at Die Hummel, devour Croatian-inspired seafood dishes in El Pescador, or watch the chefs at work plating perfection in dreizehn by Gauster. Visit in August – and, more importantly, snag a ticket well in advance – and you can appreciate the finest dishes at the Long Table of Graz when around 700 people dine on one long al fresco table. Between that, the Graz Food Festival and a packed culinary event calendar, there’s always something to cheers with a glass of Südsteiermark Sauvignon Blanc on any Graz itinerary.
Portugal’s quality of Atlantic seafood makes the country one of Europe’s best food destinations
Porto, Portugal
I’ve been calling Portugal home for six years and holidaying here for decades. Seeing the transformation in the country’s food scene has been incredible. I couldn’t have been more proud to attend this year’s first-ever Portugal-only MICHELIN Gala Dinner and see so many young chefs celebrated for their innovation. Yet, while some dining rooms have gotten fancier and many chefs more creative, I love that Portuguese cuisine has remained mainly traditional, with the quality of ingredients always taking pride of place. And while the Algarve’s Mediterranean diet is delicious, and Lisbon boasts plenty of tourist-focused dining rooms, I would argue that Porto is the country’s epicurean capital. This northern city more than holds its own against Europe’s more established food cities.
Portugal’s Chef of the Year 2023, the ingenious and young Vasco Coelho Santos, has a handful of top-notch restaurants here. The Atlantic bounty ensures a steady stream of first-class seafood. And with the Douro snaking inland from the city, a perfect glass of Port or a premium bottle of wine is always at hand. Plus, Porto’s prices are pretty wallet-friendly, whether you’re eating traditional tripe at a low-key tasca or splurging on a seat at a chef’s table.
Standout dishes, dining rooms and food experiences in Porto
Deciding what and where to eat in Porto is all part of the fun. Want something traditional? Order a francesinha, a croque-monsieur-inspired sandwich stacked with cheese, smoked sausage, and meat in a slightly spiced beer sauce – A Regaleira serves the original. Or devour bacalhau à gomes de sá, Porto’s take on Portugal’s beloved salted cod fish. Alternatively, follow in the footsteps of Anthony Bourdain and try tripas à moda do porto – a bean and tripe stew hailing from less affluent times – at A Cozinha do Martinho. If you’d like to indulge, I can’t recommend Chef Rui Paula’s ocean-view Casa do Boa Cho Nova or Vasco Coelho Santos’ Euskalduna Studio enough for fish-heavy, Michelin-starred tasting menus.
Over a weekend in Porto, you can easily flit between the Port lodges of Gaia across the river, stroll the sights and atmospheric restaurants along the Ribeira, snack and shop at Bolhão Market, and even fit in a train or boat trip to the Douro’s vineyards. If you want a more intimate experience with one of Portugal’s best chefs, contact The Art of Tasting Portugal, where the lovely Patricia and her team will help you see the city through the eyes (and palate) of a local chef.
In Lyon, sausages of all kinds are one the start of a gourmands getaway
Lyon, France
Lyon is one of France’s best cities for planning a gastronomic getaway. In fact, many would say it’s not just the country’s best city for cuisine but the “Food Capital of the World”. Yes, forget Paris’s fast-paced brasseries, pretty boulangeries and intimate bistros and set your foodie sights on Lyon’s bouchons, the typical restaurants of France’s third-largest city. But why is Lyon considered one of Europe’s best food cities? Well, Lyonnaise cuisine has evolved over many centuries, from Romans introducing wine and perfecting their pork products to Italian influence arriving and upping the game in the 16th century.
However, the city’s surrounding terroir has always been a constant. With the Alps on its doorstep, the Mediterranean to the south, and the fertile farmlands ideal for rearing livestock to the north, it’s well placed at Europe’s culinary crossroads – it’s a city where both butter and olive oil are common rather than competition. Add all of these excellent regional flavours, the nearby wine appellations, Lyon’s atmospheric dining rooms and a gorgeous Old Town with plenty of al fresco terraces together, and you’ve got one of Europe’s best destinations to eat and then eat some more.
Lyon’s Old Town is pretty and delicious, making it one of Europe’s best food cities
Must-try dishes, restaurants and food tours in Lyon
Pork is plentiful in Lyonnaise cuisine, and charcuterie comes in hundreds of forms. Boudin Noir blood sausages, coarse-stuffed andouillette served with mustard, and the crimson-coloured Rosette de Lyon, a cured saucisson, are just a few favourites. Heartier meals, such as meat-stuffed quenelle dumplings bathing in a creamy sauce or coq au vin, a rich, red-wine-soaked chicken dish feature on nearly every menu. When you need a rest from meat, a poached-egg-topped salade lyonnaise is a light lunch break.
For a Michelin-starred tasting, you can’t go wrong at the legendary, late Paul Bocuse’s restaurant or ingenious Guy Lassausaie’s contemporary dining room. More affordable daily lunch menus are easily found on a stroll around the river-flanked Presqu’île arrondissement. Still, Lyon is even better if you extend your visit to include a nearby wine region, such as Beaujolais or Burgandy. Book one of these incredible culinary travel packages through east-central France, and not only will you sample Lyon’s delights, but you’ll also tour vineyards bottling oaked Chardonnays and young Gamays, which pair perfectly with your epicurean adventure.
Pintxos are just one famous sample of what makes Spain’s Basque Country one of the best food destinations in Europe
Basque Country, Spain
San Sebastián, or Donostia locally, is arguably Spain’s best city to visit for a foodie trip in Europe. For centuries, it has been a utopia for pintxos (the region’s first-class finger foods), secretive gastronomic societies, and chefs looking to lead their class at the world-renowned Basque Culinary Centre. Yet this beautiful, beach-facing city in Spain’s north is only the appetiser – the Basque Country’s degustation also includes crisp, lightly sparkling txakoli wines, ruby red Riojas, and traditional dishes that lean on the fertile land as much as the sparkling sea.
Pull all of this together, and you’ve got one of Europe’s best foodie destinations. Spend a couple of days in San Sebastián enjoying bar crawls around the Parte Vieja (Old Town), where it’s all about bar tops laden high with delicious pintxos rather than boozing. Then, head inland to the gorgeous Medieval town of Laguardia. This is where the Basque Country and the famous Rioja Alavesa wine region meet, and a warren of underground tunnels hold all the wine secrets – Bodega El Fabulista is indeed fabulous. Lastly, loop back towards the coast, where the port city of Bilbao offers some of the best-value provincial dishes.
Treat yourself to a tasting in an authentic Rioja wine cellar
The best dishes and culinary experiences in the Basque Country
While San Sebastián is often regarded as Europe’s best food city, you’ll find excellent dishes all across the Basque Country. Away from the perfectly-formed pintxos – Calle 31 de Agosto is the place to start your bar crawl – provincial plates such as marmitako (tuna stew), bacalao al pil pil (a slightly spicy and salted cod dish), and txipirones en su tinta (baby squids cooked in ink) provide a more filling meal. End the night with burnt Basque cheesecake, perhaps from La Viña, and you’ll be in foodie heaven. None of this needs to cost a fortune, but if you fancy a Michelin-starred splurge, Etxanobe Atelier in Bilbao or Elena Arzak’s self-titled, three-starred restaurant in San Sebastián are a worthy investment.
If you’d prefer to let someone else handle all the arrangements, I highly recommend Intrepid’s Northern Spain Food Tour, which I took a few years back. From Barcelona to Santiago de Compostela, it was a mouthwatering journey, with much of our time spent devouring everything the Basque Country has to offer. The bonus of taking a tour like this is you will get access to a txoko, one of San Sebastián’s intimate, low-key, invited-only communal kitchens where you can enjoy a true taste of neighbourhood hospitality and Basque cuisine.
Italy is renowned as Europe’s best food destination, with each region retaining local specialities
Florence, Italy
Write a list of the best food cities in Europe, and there will be plenty of Italian options vying for the top spot. And while Emilia Romagna is perhaps my favourite Italian region for food, Florence might be the most all-rounded city to take a bite out of Italian cuisine. Yes, pizza and pasta are staples on any trip to this culinary-blessed country, but Tuscan cuisine goes beyond the headliners. All of the region’s flavours and acclaimed wines have had plenty of time to be perfected in one of the country’s most visited UNESCO-listed cities.
Of course, eating is one of the best things to do in Italy no matter where you are, but like every region, Tuscan cuisine has developed on its own terms. The first clue is in the name. From the Etruscans, the region’s ancient civilization, to contemporary, modern-day chefs, many have played a part in writing Florence’s menu. Simple, fresh ingredients are plentiful. Bread is uncomplicated and unsalted thanks to a 16th-century tax. Olive Oil is on a whole other level. And meat dishes, such as thick-cut steaks and wild game, are as commonplace as cantucci, Tuscany’s typical almond cookies often called biscotti.
Florence’s architecture pairs perfectly with Tuscan provincial flavours
Tuscan dishes, top restaurants and foodie walks in Florence
What makes Florence such a fantastic food destination in Europe is the diversity of restaurants. Given its prominence as a tourism hotspot, you’ll find plenty of popular and pricey eateries around the historic centre, especially near the Duomo and Ponte Vecchio. But across the river in local, laid-back Oltrarno, you can gorge on more affordable trattorie. Wherever you are, don’t miss the chance to sample the region’s signature pasta dishes, such as thick, ribbon-like pappardelle – often served al cinghiale, aka with a wild boat ragù – or stuffed tortelli. Tuscany’s unsalted bread is also commonplace with garlic and oil-topped fettunta (think a Tuscan bruschetta) and pappa al pomodoro, a thick bread and tomato soup found on most menus. Want some high-quality meat? Bistecca alla Fiorentina is always the answer.
Pair any of these with one of Tuscany’s standout wines – red is more typical here, Chianti being the most internationally recognised label – and you’ll have a foodie weekend fit for royalty. If you want to upgrade your insights, consider taking this foodie tour in Florence to meet the local farmers, bakers, and chefs as you discover Tuscan flavours in all their forms. And if you’re seeking a special spot to celebrate in one of Italy’s most romantic cities, you won’t have to look far. Settle into a courtyard table at Michelin-starred Enoteca Pinchiorri, and you’ll be well placed for both a proposal and a provincial feast.
Khinkali, Georgia’s excellent mince-stuffed soupy dumplings, are one of Europe’s best dishes
Georgia (yes, the whole country)
When it comes to discussing the best food in Europe, Georgian cuisine is often tragically overlooked. Yet this country has gifted the world some of the oldest and best wines you’ll find, dishes with so much creamy cheese they should be criminal, and perhaps the most perfect dumplings you’ll ever try. This is one of my favourite foodie destinations in Europe to feast, something that’s so ingrained into the culture that supras – seemingly never-ending, table-piled-high feasts – are an integral part of society.
Not that this is anything new. Winemaking in Georgia goes back some 8000 years. After enjoying your first glass of qvevri – the traditional method of production in clay vessels – aged red wine from Saperavi or little-known white Rkatsiteli, you’ll see what all the fuss is about. The table is equally historical, and Georgian cuisine has been influenced by ancient grilling practices (mtsvadi), neighbouring nations, Mediterranean travellers, and Old Silk Road seasonings. Still, there’s even more to discover beyond the national dishes, as each region proudly retains its local specialities.
My friend Nicky and I couldn’t get enough of Restaurant Amra’s Abkhazian wines and dishes
What and where to eat and drink in Georgia
Georgia doesn’t have a Michelin Guide – it honestly doesn’t need one. Instead, take yourself on a self-guided food tour around Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital and one of Europe’s most underrated cities, and you’ll find endless affordable restaurants to try dishes from every region. The Abanotubani district is where most of the touristy restaurants are, but it’s well worth exploring further. Two of my favourite spots are Chashnagiri, a local chain where you can try many different dishes affordably, and Amra, which specialises in dishes and wines from the Abkhazia region.
Whatever you do, don’t miss khinkali, Georgia’s excellent mince-stuffed dumplings, which have their own eating method to sip the soup inside. Khachapuri, a boat-like bread stuffed with cheese and an egg, is utterly indulgent. Badrijani, eggplant and walnut paste rolls are divine. And chkmeruli, a slow-cooked garlic-sauced chicken dish, is one of my favourites. Honestly, just thinking about these dishes makes me salivate. It’s easy enough to go it alone and eat your way through Tbilisi and Georgia. But, if you fancy a food tour or want to visit a wine region, reach out to my old housemates Tom & Megan, who run Eat This Food Tours, and they’ll happily guide you through Georgia’s gastronomy.
Travel influencers Sarah Woodard. Photo: Instagram/@sarahwoodard
Solo traveller Sarah Woodard, who has visited 102 countries, often shares details about her trips on social media. In a recent post, the American listed five countries where she felt unsafe. India too is included in Sarah’s list of unsafe countries. Sarah was bothered by the constant staring on the streets of India. Besides, she was scared to see stray animals roaming around everywhere. However, she noted that she enjoyed visiting these countries and would surely visit again. Sarah has also stated that she doesn’t believe her experiences in these countries are uncommon or rare. These are the five unsafe countries in the world according to Sarah Woodard.
Namibia Sarah had one of the scariest experiences in Namibia. A tour guide had tried to cheat her out of hundreds of dollars. She also felt that the local residents had troubled her when she was travelling through Namibia.
India India ranks second in Sarah’s list of unsafe countries. Sarah had initially planned to visit India as part of a group tour. However, she later decided to visit the country independently. She also hired a private driver for safety. Sarah says she always felt she was constantly being observed while travelling in North India. The driver used to urge her to get inside the car whenever people stared at her. Sarah states that she was scared even to take out her phone and felt afraid whenever she was alone.
Turkey Sarah felt safe for the most part during her six-week trip to Turkey. However, last week, she received a travel advisory that Americans were being abducted from a particular region. Sarah says that she was bothered by such advisories while travelling solo through Turkey.
United States of America Sarah states that women might feel unsafe at some point in the United States, mainly due to unwarranted attention given by men. She had an unpleasant experience while walking alone with her luggage on the subway. A man had constantly tried to talk to her. He then started getting angry and even demanded sexual favours from her.
Tanzania Sarah visited Tanzania in 2020 when she was financially broke. A stranger who kept staring at her followed her up to the hotel. He continued to stare at her until the hotel authorities intervened. Besides, strangers demanded money from her. Sarah says that she was made to wait alone at the border for completing paperwork that wasn’t required for others.
As Vice President of Global Public Relations at luxury travel company Virtuoso, Misty Belles has spent most of her career shaping how—and where—discerning travelers should explore. With 26 years at the company, she’s no stranger to the ever-evolving rhythms of travel and the ins and outs of the industry. Belles recently sat with our editorial director Pilar Guzmán to chat about all things travel this season: why more women are opting to go at it alone, the magic of a girl’s-only trip, and some trends to look forward to.
What are some travel highlights from this past year? What has stuck with you the most?
My first big trip this year was back in May, to Europe, then shortly thereafter, I went to Banff for the 2025 Virtuoso Impact Summit. That’s an area I hadn’t been to since I was maybe five years old, and it made such an imprint on me. I grew up in a small town in Texas; my parents used to load us into a car and we would drive from south Texas to Canada. I give them mad props for being in a car with two little kids for that long.
I went to my soul city, Paris, this last New Year’s with my own kids, and we traveled in a totally different way. It was their first time there. It’s quite extraordinary during the holidays. But I also took my twelve-year-old daughter to see Taylor Swift—twice—and it was the time of my life. Once was in Miami; we did a long weekend together, staying at Aqualina, which culminated in the show. The other time was in Vancouver for the end of The Eras Tour. We did it on a whim, actually. I planned the whole thing in 24 hours. We drove from Seattle and stayed in the middle of nowhere. And it was just magical. If I could bottle that feeling, that excitement, I would be in heaven.
Let’s talk about solo travel. What has changed in the last decade?
I’m someone who has traveled by herself quite a bit, and there was always a stigma of loneliness—but solo travelers are not lonely travelers. They just want to go out and explore the world on their own terms, not on somebody else’s. Nowadays, companies aren’t penalizing solo travelers anymore. There’s also more attention on women-specific travel, where you have a community baked into the trip (highly recommend checking out Intrepid and G Adventures). While you’re still traveling on your own terms, you’re doing it with the safety, security, and support system of knowing that someone has organized it for you. Women tend to backburner their own needs, so giving yourself permission to move at the pace that’s comfortable for you is a great gift.
Looking at our data, there was an increase in solo travel for the three main categories of cruises: Expedition, ocean, and river. That was super interesting—I always think of cruising as a couples or family experience. But on the other hand, it does make sense, because you’re as social or as not social as you want to be on a cruise. We’re also seeing trips to more “exotic” destinations, where, as a solo traveler (especially a woman!), you might be more intimidated on your own. For example, I have friends who have done a women-only trip to Saudi Arabia, and a colleague who just did the same in India—I’ve not been to either, and as a first-time destination, I might be more reluctant to do so. But going with another group of women, where the focus is on meeting and interacting with other women, opens up your world in a completely new way. It’s exciting, and it’s so transformative: You realize how similar someone else’s life is on the other side of the world. You think about the same things. You want your family to be happy. You want to be fulfilled. It’s a very eye-opening experience.
Girl trips are also having a bit of a renaissance. Why do you think they’re so important? What has evolved there?
Women are giving themselves permission to enjoy and to prioritize their female friendships. When you travel with your family, you feel personally responsible for everybody’s happiness: everybody has to have a good time, everybody has to do what’s on their list, everybody has to have a meal that they enjoy. But if you’re traveling with others where you don’t feel like you have to take care of them all the time, that’s a vacation for yourself. It can feel self-indulgent when you’re used to taking care of everyone else. But there are so many benefits. It’s not just the fact that you maintain close relationships, which gets harder to do in adulthood, but you also come back recharged. I always feel like I’m a better mom, wife, and worker when I come back from a trip that has fed my soul.
For a long time, for women, the only way to decompress and to enjoy each other was through the destination spa. For those who enjoy it, awesome. But that’s not everybody’s idea of a good time, or even of decompressing. Really, it’s key to find someone with a similar travel style, to align with them well, whether you’re go-go-go or more relaxed. I also find that the older I get, the more important it is to know people who knew you when you’re young—people who have seen your evolution throughout the different iterations of your life, who are still friends and want to be friends. To me, that’s the best path to walk with somebody.
What’s the summer travel outlook? Any surprise destinations breaking through?
Europe is still very strong, with the usual suspects on top—Greece, Portugal, Italy (I’ve been here for 26 years and Italy has always been the number one outbound destination for us!). US domestic travel is also huge—it’s actually our number one this year—and we’re starting to see a couple other destinations, like Switzerland and the Scandinavian countries, crack the top 10.
Our summer bookings are up 23% year over year and our sales up 26%. When those two numbers are right on par with each other, prices aren’t going up exponentially—which means the rates are finally leveling off. That spells good news for travelers.
Any sense of where some of the wellness trends are netting out?
We’re hearing a lot about the evolution of wellness into wellbeing. To me, wellness feels like a snapshot in time; a feeling of I went here, and I feel better because of it, but now I’m back to my life. But wellbeing is a reset: you learn to care for yourself differently and can integrate that into your life when you get back.
Wellbeing used to be focused just on diet and exercise—both of which are still important, of course. But there’s a deeper question now of how to tackle those ideas along with the things that are important specifically to you, whether it’s longevity, sleep, brain health. It’s not just enough to have these traditional spa services—your facials, massages, hot stones, et cetera—there has to be a kind of medical rigor. A lot of this is because people are making big health changes to their lives back home. They’re looking to accommodate and accelerate those changes when they’re going to these spas.
Pilar Guzmán is the Editorial Director of Oprah Daily, overseeing content strategy across the brand’s platforms.
Toasted ham baguettes in hand, we cheered as the new-generation Nightjet drew into Vienna Hauptbahnhof. It was a little before 7pm, and as the carriages hummed past I felt a rush of joy, like celebrity trainspotter Francis Bourgeois, but without the GoPro on my forehead. For more than three years I’ve been documenting the renaissance of sleeper trains, and I’d wondered if I might one day tire of them. But the thrill seems only to intensify each time I embark on another nocturnal adventure, this time with my two daughters – aged eight and five – who were already arguing over the top berth. The first four carriages were designated for travellers to the Italian port city of La Spezia, the other seven carrying on to Roma Tiburtina, where we would alight at 10am. Once in Rome we had 24 hours to eat classic carbonara, dark chocolate gelato, and bike around the Villa Borghese before taking a train to Florence.
Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB) has played the lead role in resuscitating Europe’s night trains. Towards the end of 2016, ÖBB launched its Nightjet network on 14 routes, using old rolling stock it bought from Deutsche Bahn. Then, to the delight of train nerds like me, it launched a brand-new fleet at the end of 2023, and now operates 20 routes across Europe. We were now on board this high-spec service, which smelled of freshly unpacked furniture, the carpets soft underfoot, the lighting adjustable to disco hues of neon blue and punk pink.
We were booked into a couchette carriage, which mostly comprisesd mini cabins designed for solo travellers preferring privacy. Placing shoes and small bags in lockers, passengers can open a metal door with a keycard and crawl into their single berth, drawing the door closed around them, and not have to look at another human until morning. Last year I had trialled the mini cabins from Vienna to Hamburg alongside a tall friend who had likened the experience to sleeping inside a bread bin, though I hadn’t found it as claustrophobic as I’d feared, just a bit hard, chilly, and with a pillow as flat as a postage stamp. So I was curious to see how the carriage’s four-person private compartments, for families and groups, would differ.
New generation Nightjet train in Austria. Photograph: Christian Blumenstein
Normally happy to share with strangers, I’d booked a whole compartment for the three of us: more to protect other hapless travellers from my children, who were now swinging off the berths like members of Cirque du Soleil, their sweaty socks strewn under the seats. With raised sides, the upper berths were safe for the girls to sleep in without rolling out, and I set about tucking in their sheets while they settled down to finish their baguettes. There is no dining car on the Nightjet, so we’d bought food from the station, which was now moving backwards as the train sailed out of the Austrian capital in silence, smoothly curving south-west.
Two days earlier we’d arrived in Vienna by train from London, via Paris, and had checked into the Superbude Wien Prater, a curious hotel that appeared part art-installation, part hostel, with gen Zs slouched around worn leather sofas on MacBooks. With four-bed family cabins overlooking the Prater amusement park, it was a great location from which to explore the city, then finish the evening with a terrifying rollercoaster and a spicy Bitzinger wurst. A friend had described Vienna to me as a grand and beautiful “retirement village”, but, on the contrary, its green spaces, playgrounds and museums made it an easy stop for 48 hours with kids.
Hopping off the Nightjet from Paris, we’d gone straight to my favourite restaurant, Edelgreisslerei Opocensky – an unassuming nook serving homely dishes such as stuffed gnocchi, and goulash with dumplings – before whiling away an afternoon at the Children’s Museum at Schönbrunn Palace.
Dressing up like young Habsburgs, the girls had swanned around in wigs and musty gowns, laying tables for banquets and begging not to leave – a far cry from our usual museum experiences. Before boarding this train we’d had one last run around the interactive Technical Museum, where the human-sized hamster wheels, peg games and slides had so worn out the children that my five-year-old was asleep as the train plunged into the Semmering mountain pass.
It was still light as we swept around the Alps, my eight-year-old kneeling at the window and asking where local people shopped, so few and far between were signs of human life. Horses grazed in paddocks, cows nuzzled, and the occasional hamlet emerged from round a bend as though the chalets were shaken like dice and tossed into the slopes. In the blue-grey twilight we watched streams gleam like strips of metal, and spotted a single stag poised at the edge of a wood, before the train made a long stop at the Styrian city of Leoben, at which point we turned in.
Monisha Rajesh and her daughters disembark the night train. Photograph: Monisha Rajesh
Like the mini cabins, the compartment was still too cold, the pillow still too flat, but the berths were wider and the huge window a blessing compared with the single berths’ portholes – this one allowed for wistful gazing.
Shoving a rolled-up jumper under my head, I fell asleep, waking at 7am to rumpled clouds and a golden flare on the horizon. Most night trains terminate soon after passengers have woken up, but this one was perfect, allowing us to enjoy a leisurely breakfast of hot chocolate and jam rolls while watching the Tuscan dawn breaking into song, and Umbrian lakes and cornfields running parallel before we finally drew into Rome – on time.
When travelling alone I relish arriving with the entire day at my disposal, but with children it’s hard work waiting until 3pm to check in to accommodation, so I default to staying at a Hoxton hotel if one is available. Its Flexy Time policy allows guests to choose what time they check in and out for free, and by 11am we had checked in, showered and set off to toss coins in the Trevi fountain, finding thick whorls of eggy carbonara at nearby trattoria Maccheroni, and gelato at Don Nino. To avoid the crowds and heat, we waited until 6pm to hire an electric pedal car from Bici Pincio at the Villa Borghese and drove around the landscaped, leafy grounds, relishing the quietness of the evening ride. Excited about the next adventure in Florence, the girls had only one complaint: that they couldn’t ride there on the night train.
Monisha Rajesh is the author of Moonlight Express: Around the World by Night Train (Bloomsbury, £22), published on 28 August and available on pre-order at guardianbookshop.com
Omio provided travel in a four-person private compartment in a couchette carriage from Vienna to Rome (from £357). Accommodation was provided by Superbude Wien Prater in Vienna (doubles from €89 room-only); and The Hoxton in Rome (doubles from €189 room-only)
