Istria—with its sleepy fishing villages, azure waters, and verdant hills of truffle, olive, and vine—is still, miraculously, under the radar. Straddling both Mediterranean and Balkan identity, this pointed peninsula makes for not only a perfect Tuscan rival, but for a softer, more refined counterpart to the tourist-soaked Dalmatian coast.
Luckily, a raft of new flight routes from UK airports have pushed open the floodgates, as have a new wave of design-forward hotels, farm-to-fork restaurants, and coastal hideaways. Put simply, Istria is now very much a contender for a worthy weekend getaway for those based in Europe or a tack-on to a longer Balkans jaunt, though bear in mind that such isolated, abundant beauty comes at a slight cost in terms of public transport infrastructure (more on how to get around below).
The small scale and easy roads of the region mean that a typical Istrian day can kick off with some truffle hunting among the inland hills of Motovun, or Buzet, before twisting into a lunchtime snorkel down along the craggy coasts. By sunset, you’re in the quaint old towns of Rovinj, or Porec, sipping crisp Malvazija and wondering where on earth the day went.
Somehow, this place has managed to stay simultaneously refined, yet wild; relaxed, yet always on the move, boasting more cyclists than seagulls, and as many outdoors enthusiasts as there are cashmere clad couples on catamarans.
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FAQ:
What’s the best way to get to Istria?
While there are no direct flights from the US to Pula, it’s easily reached via a connection through major European hubs like Frankfurt, Munich, or London. From there, regional carriers like Croatia Airlines operate short flights directly into Pula Airport. Likewise, easyJet has expanded its Croatian reach, with returns from Pula to London starting from around $64 per person. For those happy to pair the trip with a scenic drive, Venice Marco Polo Airport—served by direct flights from New York, Boston, and Chicago—is just a two-and-a-half-hour drive away from the Istrian border, making it a popular entry point for international travelers, and an ace roadtrip en route.
What’s the best way to get around Istria?
With the region’s dual geography of coast and grove, a rental car is must, with providers like Kayak offering up a Croat car for as little as $43 a day. In terms of pick-up points, Pula Airport is the most convenient choice if flying directly, and boasts several international hire desks. As above, if landing in Italy, many travellers opt to grab a car in Venice, or Trieste, and drive over the border into Croatia. This route offers sweeping sea views, and drops you directly into Istria’s hilltop villages, and vineyards—a no brainer.
Monte is the first Michelin-starred restaurant in Croatia.
Mateja Vrcković
A sun-drenched table set for a multi-course tasting at Monte.
Maja Danica Pečanić
Where to eat in Istria
Istria has long been associated with gastronomy of the purest kind, with a deep, quasi-religious focus on the purity of olives, grapes, and the ever-elusive truffle. It’s not surprising then, that the entire region is littered with high-quality eateries, from Michelin stars to local taverns (referred to as konobas) all offering a slice of the landscape in one place. The highest concentration of superstar eats is in and around the fashionable fishing town of Rovinj, home to Croatia’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, Monte. However, for a more casual bite, head to Puntulina, built into the cliff-face, so close to the spray that the Adriatic anchovies may as well jump straight out of the sea and onto the plate. Set within the Grand Park Hotel, Cap Aureo is world-class fine dining with a difference. In chef Jeffrey Vella’s dishes, flavor and seasonality are king (such as his life-affirming cauliflower ‘three-ways’ appetizer), with welcome flair and understated theatrics.
At Cap Aureo Signature Restaurant in Rovinj, modern Croatian cuisine is elevated to an art form, served with precision and flair.
Mario Kucera/Grand Park Hotel Rovinj
A little further south, in the placid olive groves of Bale, Meneghetti Restaurant & Bar offers a local menu, gleaned from their own groves and garden, cooked up by 28-year-old wunderkind Ante Miletic. Dishes dance between truffle-topped fuži pastas, Lim Bay oysters, or whatever is budding in the abundant kitchen garden that day. Heading north into the fairytale hill towns of Motovun, Grožnjan, and more, easier offerings can be found in one of the many roadside konobas, with Konoba Stari Podrum’s convivial garden and open grill well worth popping the hazard lights on for.
It’s worth remembering that, for Istrians, wine is almost as big a deal as olive oil—and rightly so. In recent years, both have been cleaning up international awards, and none more so than those of historic winery Kozlović, whose über modern, panoramic tasting room embodies the region’s forward thinking approach, playfully poking out into the ancient, flowing vineyards, and cream fields of Buje.
Sunseekers flock to the turquoise waters and rocky charm of Hawaii Beach in Pula, Croatia—a tucked-away cove that’s anything but secret in summer.
Devgnor/Getty
Where to play in Istria
The joy of Istria is reveling in the mash-up of coast and countryside—and when it comes to play, the place manages to be both relaxed and elemental. Inland, take a dog walk with a difference, at the family run Prodan Tartufi, whose expert snouts (and three generations of human equivalents!) will lead you through the wild, misty hills of Buzet—a town locals say has more truffle dogs than people. It’s worth remembering that nobody leaves Istria without having tasted truffles a hundred ways, from scrambled eggs to ice cream. Beyond hills of so-called ‘Black Gold’ there’s also a handful of serene swimming lakes and waterfalls, such as local spot Zarečki Krov, which is well worth the drive for a lazy lunch.
Down south, surrounding Pula, there’s a wealth of enviable archipelago, islet, and craggy coast to uncover—or at the very least, bask on, lizard-style. For those who like earning a suntan, there’s no better way to take it all in than with a kayak tour around the protected Cape Kamenjak, with its glistening, secluded bays known mostly to locals. Top it off by braving the diving into the grid-ready Kolombarica blue cave which, once inside and when the sun is just right, glows like cut sapphire.
Truffles can be found throughout Istria.
William Torrillo/Prodan Tartufi
Stiv, the dog, digging for truffles.
William Torrillo/Prodan Tartufi
For those chasing more chilled vibes, a private boat excursion out around the 14 protected Brijuni Islands might be the ticket—here Roman ruins, wild deer, and the occasional cresting dolphin compete to become your new lock screen image. In a similar vein, solid pit stops can be had along the coast, from Rovinj’s cobbled old town to those of Poreč and Novigrad, where you’ll forever be drawn through cute slices of limestone alley, back down toward the pure blue sea.
Where to stay in Istria
The Adriatic never looked as good as from the vast terrace of the Grand Park, which hovers above the yacht-filled bay of Rovinj. Croatia’s most stylish stay, this sloping, stone-and-glass marvel is tiered into pine-dotted cliffs. The best rooms overlook Rovinj’s pastel old town, which rises from the sea like a watercolor taped to the easel of one of the many sun-stained artists in the historic center. Expect exquisite design, low-lit luxury, and a killer spa-and-infinity-pool combo. This place makes everything a moment—from a decadent breakfast to the scent of the surrounding pine forest. Honeymooners, design snobs, and spa-lovers: this one’s for you.
A former expatriate, he worked in Kolkata for two years before heading to the Gulf in 1977. After 33 years abroad, he returned home in 2010 and has since been indulging his lifelong love for travel.
Sreenivasan
Who says age comes with limits? Sreenivasan, a 79-year-old from Irinave in Kannur, certainly doesn’t think so. Far from slowing down, he’s still hitting the road solo — and his most recent adventure took him all the way to Howrah, clocking a whopping 4,357 kilometres over nine days, all by himself.
Living on the sixth floor of a flat in Thalap, Kannur, Sreenivasan is not one to lock himself in with the passing years. Age may change the numbers, but not his passion for travel. Whenever the mood strikes, he hops into his car and sets off — this time, turning the wheel eastwards to Howrah.
Despite the long journey, there’s not a trace of fatigue in his voice. Sreenivasan doesn’t let age define his pace. “When the desire to travel wins, age doesn’t matter,” he says with conviction.
A former expatriate, he worked in Kolkata for two years before heading to the Gulf in 1977. After 33 years abroad, he returned home in 2010 and has since been indulging his lifelong love for travel. Over the years, he has made countless trips, each one fuelling the next. His eyesight isn’t perfect, and he has a few health issues — but giving up solo travel is out of the question.
His journeys aren’t planned with maps or strict timetables. He simply follows his instinct — just as he did this time, choosing the route via Kottupuzha and Mysuru before heading straight to West Bengal. He drives from 8 am to 6 pm, avoiding night travel entirely. Pit stops are only for petrol and tolls.
For the Kannur–Howrah trip, he used 305 litres of petrol and paid ₹6,500 in tolls. He sticks to national highways and avoids detours. On some three-lane highways, rows of trucks can be a challenge, but Sreenivasan notes, “They’ll clear the way if you honk — it’s part of the driving culture.”
A vegetarian, he stops only at places that cater to his diet. His travels have taken him to Mangaluru, Mysuru, Srirangapatna, Hyderabad, Bhubaneswar and of course, Kolkata — which he has visited thrice already. Shorter getaways to places like Thrissur and Palakkad are also part of his routine.
Sreenivasan believes that for elderly travellers, good roads make all the difference. He lives with his wife Reetha and has two daughters — Sreeja and Sijitha.
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Bed & bath: 1 bedroom, 2 baths Top amenities: Mountain views, sustainable and thoughtful design, in-unit laundry, free parking on premises
For a tasteful, stylish, and refined stay out in Wanship, Utah, this property is a western take on a traditional lighthouse. The Towerhouse is a four-story estate at 8,000 feet of elevation, and the only property on this list that has no body of water in sight. That said, guests can expect sprawling views of both the mountains and Park City, Utah. While the space can fit up to four guests, its one queen bed is more suitable for two—perhaps for a remote, romantic getaway. With novel, eclectic touches, it’s architecturally unique, and only a 15-minute drive from the small towns nearby. Note: If booking during the winter, all guests must have four-wheel drive with snow tires as the roads are steep and often covered with snow.
Taking time away from your kids doesn’t make you a bad mum, it makes you human.
Actress and mum-of-two Tammin Sursok shares why solo travel is self-care, not selfish – and how she’s teaching her daughters to dream big by doing the same herself.
Because if a dad jets off to Spain solo, he’s praised for taking a well-earned break. But when a mum does the same? Cue the side-eye and questions about who’s looking after the kids.
It’s a frustrating double standard, and one Tammin is tired of seeing play out.
Splitting her time between Sydney and Nashville, the Home and Away alum is no stranger to airports, time zones and the juggle of parenting on the move. But it was a recent kid-free trip to Spain that sparked a bigger conversation—about guilt, rest, and the pressure mothers feel to be endlessly available.
“Because when I come back rested, I’m a better parent. And my daughters get to see that it’s okay to prioritise yourself sometimes too.”
In this candid interview, Tammin opens up about parenting across continents, ditching outdated expectations, and why taking time away from your kids might just be one of the most loving things you can do.
Tammin Sursok recommends travelling solo, without the mum-guilt. (Image: Instagram)
“It’s not selfish, it’s necessary”
Tammin says her solo trip to Spain was more than just a break, it was a revelation. “If a dad goes to Spain solo, he’s living his best life. If a mum goes, she’s abandoned her children,” she says.
“There’s still so much social conditioning around what makes a ‘good mother’. She’s expected to be tireless, devoted, always available—and anything that looks like rest, solitude or joy outside of that is seen as selfish.”
But Tammin believes that mindset doesn’t just harm mothers—it teaches the wrong message to the next generation.
“I want my girls to know it’s okay to take care of yourself. That you don’t have to disappear to be a good mum.”
Motherhood and the myth of balance
For Tammin, life is a constant juggle between work, parenting and travel.
“Honestly, sometimes I don’t know if I am managing it! It’s a lot of logistics – different time zones, school systems – but we’re making it work. The girls have grown up knowing life happens in two places, and that’s been amazing for them culturally.”
She’s quick to debunk the myth of having it all figured out.
“I always say you can have it all, just not at the same time. Some days you’re nailing career stuff, other days you’re hiding in a pantry eating chocolate chips while the kids scream. That’s just real life.”
Respect and teamwork in parenting
Tammin and her husband have one major parenting non-negotiable: kindness, even in chaos.
“We don’t undermine each other in front of the kids. If one of us says no, the other doesn’t swoop in as the fun one. Even though sometimes I want to be the fun one! Ha.”
What self-care really looks like
Forget fancy spa days, Tammin says her self-care is often simple.
“It’s sitting alone in silence for five minutes. Watching TV without noise. A bath, a book. And yes, sometimes it’s big things, like travel or creative projects that light me up. But mostly, it’s small acts that remind me I’m a person too.”
Sharing real life, with boundaries
With 1.3 million Instagram followers, Tammin knows the value of being open, but she draws a clear line when it comes to family.
“If sharing a messy moment helps someone feel less alone, I’ll do it. But my kids’ emotional privacy comes first. People see maybe 5% of my life online, the rest belongs to us.”
Tammin’s long-haul travel survival guide
Having clocked countless flights between the US and Australia with kids in tow, Tammin shares her go-to tips for travelling with little ones:
Snacks. So many snacks.
A new toy or activity they’ve never seen before.
A change of clothes for everyone, learned that the hard way!
Forget screen time rules – it’s survival mode.
Always choose a night flight if you can.
And remember: the flight will end. Even if it doesn’t feel like it.
Tammin with her daughters, Phoenix, 11 and Lennon, 6; Barbie Play-Doh Ruffles and Bows set, from $29 at Target. (Image: Supplied)
Play-Doh x Barbie
Recently, Tammin hosted a Play-Doh x Barbie high tea in Sydney and says the new Fashion Play Sets align perfectly with how she encourages creativity at home.
“In our house, creativity is non-negotiable. There’s no wrong way to create, whether it’s Play-Doh dresses or glitter explosions on paper. I want my girls to feel free to express themselves.”
Tammin’s daughters, Phoenix, 11 and Lennon, six already have big personalities, and bold fashion to match.
“Phoenix is sporty and practical but loves a statement piece. Lennon’s a tiny rockstar – animal prints, sunglasses indoors, very opinionated about accessories!”
As for Tammin, her own style is comfort-first with the occasional red carpet glam.
“Day-to-day I’m in jeans, a white tee and trainers. But I do love going bold when I dress up, it’s evolving, but I just want to feel good without trying too hard.”
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