In my 100+ days on the Appalachian Trail, I haven’t been at such a loss for words to describe my experience as I have these past few weeks in New Hampshire. It all started off innocently enough, with a walk across the Connecticut River into lovely Hanover. Pretty quickly, the terrain got tough and the views spectacular. Add in the unique aspect of managed huts every ~10 miles or so and you have a section of the AT that is unlike any other. My son, Plus One, joined me for the challenging journey through the White Mountains and, together, we tackled the most difficult physical experience of our lives. 

AT Box Score

• Friendly People – 235/235 plus Hut Croo and guests
• Interesting Wild Critters – 3 types of birds serenaded us
• Errors – 1
• Injury Report – Made it through the White Mountains unscathed

We saw SO MANY people as we traveled through New Hampshire because of the popularity and beauty of the trails there. One fun highlight was hiking with a former Appalachian Mountain Club guide through the Presidential Range – her insights on the Trail helped us appreciate the work that happens behind the scenes to balance conservation of the fragile ecosystem with hiker happiness. 

Since broadening the critter category to cover anything interesting, rather than just the unfriendly, we’ve been disappointed by our encounters. We aren’t typically birders, but noticed the distinct calls of three types of birds native to the area. The white throated sparrow is our favorite, with its four-note call. Swainson’s thrush offered us whirly songs to walk by and the winter wren gave us the extended play version of our outdoor soundtrack. 

Again, this week’s error had to do with power on the Trail. 100+ days in, I still don’t have battery power figured out. Batteries are heavy, so I’ve skimped on this part of my gear and ended up running my electronics down after a few days on Trail. Plus One also had a broken charging cable, which never happens and limited our options. He argues that his batteries were extra heavy because they never got used! Added to that, my Samsung Galaxy S9 phone (circa 2018) has recently stopped charging reliably from any source and frequently drops the cell signal when others have no trouble. Time to invest in some more electronics!

Climbs, Ridges, and Brooks

No matter how I try to describe the White Mountains, I won’t do them justice, so I’ll lean on the idea of photos being the better way to share the experience Plus One and I had over the past few weeks. Below are a few examples of the many photos we took – check out Instagram for more! Most of my photos are of Franconia Ridge, so I’ve neglected Moosilauke, Kinsmans, Presidentials, and Carters. They are all spectacular, too! 

Hiking through these mountains, weather is a constant consideration. Our great day on Franconia quickly turned stressful as the clouds rolled in and made the descent down to the Garfield Ridge campsite slippery and treacherous. We were on a time crunch, trying to set up camp before dark, so the anxiety was building – not a great combination of haste and wet, steep footing. We got there unscathed and were greeted by one of the excellent caretakers, who gave us a quick tour and instructions before leaving us to our chores. 

One very special thing worth noting – when you’re not climbing, walking a ridge, or descending during a White Mountains hike, you find yourself walking along a beautiful babbling brook. It’s a fine detail that makes this state all that more magical. 

Huts and Croo

Among many other parts of its operations, the Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) maintains eight backcountry huts between Kinsman Notch and Carter Notch in New Hampshire. The oldest, Carter Notch Hut, was built in 1914 and expanded over time. The biggest, Lakes of the Clouds, sits 1.5 miles below the summit of mighty Mt. Washington to make the hike more accessible and less risky. Lonesome Lake Hut, a 1.5 mile hike from I93, sits atop a ridge with spectacular views of Franconia. Each has its own charm and challenges for maintenance.

Many years ago, I heard of these huts and was curious to see how they might fit into my AT hike. At the time, I thought I’d do the Trail in sections and the huts seemed like a great way to travel through the state with minimal pack weight. I didn’t really appreciate how they worked until Plus One and I made a point of seeing them along the way. Although minimalist in services – solar power, no outlets to charge phones, composting toilets, no showers – they provide a bunk, breakfast, dinner, spectacular settings and good cheer. 

Some of the good cheer is provided by other guests – thru-hikers, section hikers, families with children, empty nest couples – we saw them all. The on-site “Croo” staff also provides good cheer in their cheesy skits that remind guests to Leave No Trace and fill out a comment card. These Croos range from a staff of three to eleven, depending on the size of the hut. In addition to the responsibilities of running the hotel side of the operation, they also don pack boards, regularly making the multi-mile trek down to carry in supplies and carry out trash. We knew that there was much more to this sub-culture when we passed another thru-hiker carrying a rubber chicken on a stick – a game of hot potato played between two of the huts. 

I understand now that these huts serve the hiker community, even when they are not paid guests. Plus One and I took advantage of the thru-hiker pass and stopped at seven of the huts for water, privy, snacks, and a brief rest. They leave left-over food out for thru-hikers – a win for both sides because any food waste has to be packed out. There is also a work-for-stay program that is coveted by budget-motivated hikers. 

Much More than +1

That unnamed guest you invite to a social event as an accessory to the named guest is referred to as the +1. My son chose the trail name Plus One for his hike with me since he was the supporting character in this adventure. His role over the past few weeks has been far more than an accessory; he’s been a critical piece of navigating this terrain without injury, adding a healthy reminder to slow down and enjoy the event. Many hikers end up leaving the Trail in New Hampshire for a variety of reasons, injury high among them. I’m grateful to Plus One for pointing out the tippy, slippy rocks and helping me choose the least risky path up rock faces. More than his help with safety, I’ve appreciated the times he suggested the side quest, just because there may be a moose in that pond down the blue blaze at dusk. 

The family, multi-generation hikers are some of my favorite people to talk with because they appreciate how special it is to hike the Trail with people who can share those memories once they are back in the real world. Blue Bear, Fun Size, and Plus One – three generations together for an epic adventure through the White Mountains!

Curiosities From the Trail

We were properly amused by the six-sided shelter named “Hexacuba” early in our New Hampshire journey. The perfect complement? A five-sided “Penta Privy” with pentagon accents galore. Who says privies aren’t fun? Pretty much everyone, including the dedicated folks that maintain them. 

Remember to Look for Beauty

There is a stark beauty in the wind-swept mountain tops above the treeline, where few plants can survive and the path must be marked by rock cairns. The sky is enormous and the valleys below show the tiny specks of “civilization”. I wish I could bottle the feeling of standing in this place. 

The State Limerick

We saved some of the Vermont miles for after Maine, so this limerick will seem out of order for regular readers. Never fear, there is a lot to share about Vermont, after Mount Katahdin! New Hampshire redefined my experience on the AT and gave me the confidence to keep going for another 800+ miles.  

New Hampshire 

• New Hampshire was the ultimate test
• Walk along Franconia was best
• Big climbs up and down
• Wet rocks all aroun’
• Now I know I can tackle the rest!

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Help me reach my goal of raising $25,000 for the ATC this year. 

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