Solo Travellers
Lucky dips: a rail tour of Slovakia’s best spa towns | Slovakia holidays
‘Centuries ago people used to say, ‘In three days the Piešťany water will either heal you or kill you.’” My guide Igor Paulech is showing me around Spa Island – a hot-spring haven in the middle of the Váh River that runs through Piešťany, Slovakia’s most prestigious spa town. Just an hour north of Bratislava by train, the town and its spa-populated island are packed with grand art nouveau and art deco buildings.
There’s a faint aroma of sulphur in the air as Igor paces ahead, past peacocks and ponds full of lilies, imparting his home town’s history. The hot water that springs from beneath the island sandbank has created what we’re all here for: a blueish medicinal mud that’s rich in hydrogen sulphide and sulphur.
Slovakia is gaining an international reputation for its affordable and high-quality spa treatments. I’m here to visit three of its leading spa towns, travelling entirely by rail. The journey from London is straightforward and took less than 24 hours thanks to the new European Sleeper route that leaves Brussels for Prague three nights a week, and a direct train from Prague to Piešťany.
On checking in at the Thermia Palace, the history of this grand 113-year-old hotel and neighbouring Irma Health Spa is immediately apparent. Photographs of maharajas, politicians and singers who have visited are on display, and a painting donated by Alfonse Mucha, the Czech artist whose work defined the art nouveau style, hangs in the hotel’s dining room. His daughter came here regularly for the balneotherapy (mineral-water hydrotherapy), and there is a small museum on Spa Island dedicated to his work.
I’m assigned to Dr Alena Korenčíková, who immediately notices I have hypermobility and draws up a personalised programme that includes visits to the thermal bath, filled with sulphuric mineral water, and the hot-mud pool. I’m also prescribed daily CO2 injections. Known as carboxytherapy, this treatment is meant to help muscle recovery and tissue regeneration; my rock-hard shoulders feel noticeably looser afterwards. And finally, I’m prescribed a mud-pack treatment, which is recommended for reducing swelling and inflammation, and nourishing the joints. When I explain that I’m going to Trenčianske Teplice and hope to continue mud treatment there, Dr Alena says: “They have peat, it’s not the same as ours.” Time to fine-tune my mud knowledge.
As I submerge myself in the warm cloudy water, my toes squish into the mineral mud that is pumped directly from the mud kitchen (where it’s treated) into the vast circular pool. The building is as thrilling as the bathing. The 19th-century dome above the pool is the spa’s stunning centrepiece, with stained glass art deco skylight windows sitting high up on the art nouveau walls decorated with tiles, floral motifs and cherubs. Piešťany is just as much about architecture as about bathing, it seems.
Local architect Eva Rohoňová cements this theory the following day, when she shows me around the extraordinary House of Arts, a colossal piece of 1970s brutalism that houses the town’s concert hall and cultural centre. “It’s far too big a capacity for just people from Piešťany,” she says. “The Czechoslovakian government built it here as the town was full of international visitors. It was to demonstrate the culture.” She has been giving tours of otherwise inaccessible interior spaces to locals over the years, but anyone can arrange one through the Visit Piešťany website.
After three mud-packed days, I take a train north to Trenčianske Teplice just outside Trenčín, one of next year’s European Capitals of Culture. I’m instantly taken by the picturesque spa town with its mix of baby pink and peachy orange 19th-century guesthouses and angular 1960s concrete hotels. Daniel Oriešek from the tourist board shows me around. I point out the steady stream of visitors carrying walking poles. “It’s not the Tatras, but people come here for hiking,” he says, alluding to Slovakia’s West Carpathian range which forms a scenic backdrop to the town.
They also come to bathe at the Sina hammam, an ornate Turkish bathhouse that looks as though it could have been teleported here from Istanbul. It was in fact built in 1888 and designed by František Schmoranz Jr, an Austrian architect of Czech origin who had spent several years living in Egypt and was a leading expert on Islamic architecture and decorative arts.
I’m ushered in and shown to the pool, where an unexpected delight greets me: a huge socialist-era mural that covers one entire wall. I soak in the water and copy the locals, who splash their faces with water from the source in the middle of the pool. Afterwards, my skin looks and feels fantastic and, with an entry price of just £12.50, I’m already plotting my next visit as I exit the building.
The next day I catch a train to Žilina, a city in the north of the country, where I disembark to hop on a bus for Rajecké Teplice. It’s a village compared with Piešťany and only has the one spa, Aphrodite, but that spa is truly unlike anywhere else I’ve been. Lovingly maximalist, with Roman-style columns, mosaics and gold decor that glimmers in the crisp spring sunshine, this is the Vegas of spa resorts. “When you are lying on a sunbed on a hot summer day and take a cold dip in the pool, it’s like you’re not in Slovakia,” says staff member Radka Capkova. “Everyone knows Slovakia has lots of spas, but it’s usually older people who want to go. But our spa is so famous that we get younger people here taking photos.”
It’s a huge complex of 11 saunas, three restaurants, an outdoor swimming pool and Nature Land, where bathing is naked after 5pm. I feel far too British for this, but wearing a bikini to a sauna is a firm no in central Europe, so I collect a sauna sheet and tuck it around myself like a sarong. Capkova encourages me to attend one of their “sauna ritual” events (or Aufguss) and get over the nudity: “No one stares or looks,” she says.
I go to the hottest ritual, where the sauna master swirls around like a figure skater, splashing orange, lemongrass and yuzu water over the hot coals as pop songs blast out and everyone claps along – the camaraderie is so infectious that I quickly forget everyone is naked.
“My great-great-grandmother, my great-aunt, my mother, everyone worked here at some point,” Capkova tells me. Rajecké Teplice is the smallest of the spa towns I’ve been to, but it has a big community impact. Spas are just in the blood in Slovakia. “But in the UK you don’t go to the spa?” It’s a question I get asked a lot throughout this week. “We’re working on it,” I always reply.
The trip was provided by Trnava Regional Tourism Board, Trenčianske Teplice Regional Tourism, Spa Aphrodite and Byway Travel (byway.travel). A bespoke 10-day tour of Slovakia costs from £2,012pp, including transport and some accommodation
Solo Travellers
At 34, I’ve Traveled to 90 Countries Instead of Marrying, Having Kids
Growing up, I was always enamored with geography, so it’s no surprise that I developed a passion for solo traveling.
In my 20s, I assumed I would solo travel for a few years to “get it out of my system” before settling down. Instead, my destination bucket list grew while my desire for things that felt like societal norms at my age — kids and marriage, for example — dwindled.
By 30, it dawned on me that both of those things are choices, not requirements. While some women successfully balance it all, I’m not personally willing to swap spontaneous trips for dirty diapers.
My solo ventures have led me to experiences like road-tripping in Madagascar and seeing all 20 regions in Italy. Recently, they led me to my 90th country, Mauritius, where I snorkeled with colorful fish and ate street dholl puri.
What Mauritius really provided, though, was a moment to reflect on all that comes with solo traveling as a single, childless 34-year-old woman.
The judgmental comments are relentless, but I don’t let them deter me
Kaitlyn Rosati
I’ve built a business around solo traveling through my Instagram and blog, so I am no stranger to unsolicited comments.
My earliest trips were funded through my work as a bartender, and I quickly became skilled at traveling comfortably on my budget. I finessed systems like SkyScanner’s “Everywhere” search feature to find inexpensive flights, and I slept in affordable hostels.
Still, everyone from strangers online to coworkers in real life constantly insinuated that a man was paying for my trips — or my parents were.
I was taken aback by how frequently people asked how I could afford to travel, when I would never dare ask how someone could afford to raise a child.
I received other nosy questions, too. Whenever I dated someone, people asked if my partner was mad that I traveled alone, or said it was nice that he “let” me go on trips without him.
It made me wonder how often solo-traveling men are told it’s nice their partner “lets” them travel.
Naysayers aside, solo traveling has led me to a community of like-minded people
Kaitlyn Rosati
In my experience, it’s much easier to meet people when you’re traveling alone since you’re not stuck in your own group.
Solo traveling has led me to plenty of friends that I’ve met naturally in hostels, bars, and even on airplanes, and through my online community via social media.
Although solo travel — like babies and marriage — isn’t for everyone, I have found my footing in this world because of it. For me, it’s empowering to be in an unknown part of the world with nothing but myself to rely on.
Even as a seasoned traveler, I still learn something new on every trip, whether I’m dismantling negative stereotypes about places I’d been taught were unsafe or reminding myself I don’t need to wait for a partner to enjoy typical honeymoon destinations.
Solo travel has fed my curiosity, opened my mind, and given me the gift of enjoying my own company.
I wish that my life, passions, and career were celebrated in the way that marriage and kids are
Kaitlyn Rosati
If you had asked me when I was a kid where I saw myself in my 30s, “solo traveling the world” would not have been on my radar.
I assumed my life would consist of a stable career and a house in the suburbs with my husband and kids. However, looking back, I don’t know that I ever actually wanted kids — rather, it was something that was simply expected of me.
Now, I know that I don’t have the desire to have children, although I’m still open to marriage or a long-term partnership with the right person one day.
I recognize that for many, having a family is a dream come true. My dream life, however, is the one I’m living right now.
Perhaps that’s why it’s disheartening that my accolades, like visiting 90 countries alone, will never be celebrated by society the same way having a baby or a ring on my finger will.
Knowing this, I threw myself an “Antarctica send-off” party the night before leaving for my final continent — because, if nothing else, solo travel has taught me to be my biggest supporter and my own best friend.
Solo Travellers
The Only Way to Group Travel Is Solo
Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photo: Getty Images
When Tiffany Lumpkin got divorced after just two weeks of marriage in 2022, her immediate reaction was to book a flight to Cape Town. Lumpkin and her now-ex-husband had been in a relationship for eight years, during which time they often talked about going to South Africa. But the trip never materialized. The split made Lumpkin realize she couldn’t keep putting off her dream vacation. “It was one of those euphoric moments where I was like, I don’t have to wait on a spouse. I don’t have to wait on a friend.”
Once the 36-year-old landed in Cape Town, however, fear and anxiety hit. She’d barely gone to the movies alone before, never mind travel solo. “As the plane was landing and I saw the mountains and ocean, I was looking at the motherland like, What have you done? This plane lands and you have to get off,” she says. “I was terrified.” Still, she felt like she owed it to herself to see the trip through. Before leaving home, her mom had told her to look into group trips for safety reasons. Now she scoured social media in a panic for companies offering tours and signed up for as many as possible.
Rhino Africa, the company she had scheduled an excursion with, helped point her to some local guides. Over the next three weeks, Lumpkin tried new dishes, tasted wine, explored museums, and went on safari with total strangers. “I felt like a local,” she says. While she got to have alone time when she wanted it, she says her time in South Africa “just wouldn’t have been the same without the group.”
Lumpkin has since been on at least ten solo trips around the U.S. and abroad, including to France, Mexico, and Thailand, that she’s filled with group trips and excursions. While women make up more than 70 percent of solo travelers, according to the luxury travel advisory Virtuoso, many of them are looking to find connection and friendship while they’re exploring. There are cruise, adventure, and safari companies offering group travel specifically for women all over the globe; depending on the destination, the length of the trip, and the level of luxury, these trips can range from several hundred to several thousand dollars. Intrepid Travel reported that its all-female tours, which are led by locals, grew by 37 percent globally in 2024; an eight-day trip to Morocco with the company starts at about $1,200. An 11-day tour of Portugal with Insight Vacations, which began offering group packages for women in 2024 after seeing a surge in demand from female travelers, starts at around $4,800.
Anuja Bagri, a 25-year-old management consultant in Chicago, took a break from her corporate job last year to travel. Her friends and family didn’t have the flexibility to join up with her at any point, so she looked into group tours. She did a women’s retreat in Kerala, India, before visiting her grandmother in Bangalore. She then spent some alone time in Bali followed by group sailing in Australia’s Whitsundays. “You’re still stepping out of your comfort zone, but you don’t have to do any of the planning and someone is guiding you every day,” she says. “So you can just really be in the moment and the experience.”
Group tours also appeal to those who don’t want to deal with the drama that planning a vacation with friends and family can bring — or worse, get into a fight with people they love once they get to their destination. When Bisola Tijani, a Toronto-based content creator, went to Dubai with relatives in 2021, the trip got awkward after a flight carrying half the group was canceled. “We didn’t want to do the activities without our other family, and we weren’t even sure when they were arriving,” the 29-year-old says. It was difficult to reschedule nonrefundable activities and adjust the itinerary, which she says was “a mess for someone like me.”
Tijani is a self-described planner, that person in the friend group who’s always suggesting new destinations, booking restaurant reservations, and making sure everyone has paid their share. So she knows how heavy of a lift it can be to get everyone on the same page while traveling. “Some people just want to chill, but some people want adventure and to always be doing something, and some people are just there for the vibe,” she says. “Getting a trip out of the group chat can just be really hard.” She created her own travel company, Sabi Enjoy, in 2024. While the tours are open to all travelers, she says her clients have overwhelmingly been women — and most of them tell her that they booked because they couldn’t align on a trip with their friends.
Gabrielle Ybarzabal found herself struggling last year to recruit a group to travel around New Year’s Eve. The 26-year-old wanted to get out of Austin and ring in 2025 on a beach in a country she hadn’t visited before. She liked the idea of being one of the first people in the world to celebrate, so she decided on Thailand. “I asked friends if they were able to go with me, but no one really wanted to commit to it,” she says. “So I said, OK, this is the trip I’m doing by myself.” She booked with EF Ultimate Break (Ybarzabal noted she used a travel credit for this trip, without which the same package, including flights, some excursions, and meals, would have cost about $5,000) and was soon added to a group chat for the tour. She was nervous about heading to a new country alone but hopeful that she would click with the other travelers.
“By the time I got there, we’d been following each other on Instagram,” she says. “That broke the ice.” While the 25-person tour group was co-ed, Ybarzabal says most were solo women travelers like herself. The company paired guests of the same gender for their hotel accommodations, unless they requested to share. The group explored Chiang Mai, Ao Phang Nga National Park, and Bangkok together. On New Year’s Eve, they made krathongs, floating floral lanterns that symbolize letting go of negativity. That night, at a beach party in Phuket, they went out on the water in kayaks to release the krathongs. Despite being away from her friends, Ybarzabal didn’t feel lonely, and she got the exact holiday she’d envisioned.
For her part, Lumpkin says that whenever she shares the story of recovering from her divorce while traveling with strangers, people always want to hear more. She’s now planning to lead her own retreat for women going through similar hard times in 2026, likely in Bali or Costa Rica. “Life is so much more special when you can do it with someone else,” she says. “We so often think it has to be a romantic partner, but it doesn’t.” And who knows? Maybe your future maid of honor is a stranger you’ll meet on a group tour.
Solo Travellers
Clueless Fans, You Can Now Book a Cher Horowitz–Themed Suite in Beverly Hills
It’s been 30 years since Cher Horowitz’s colorful life and even more colorful fashion sense debuted in the film Clueless. And though she claimed to have a “way normal life for a teenager” (as if!), her onscreen adventures and style proved otherwise. I can’t be the only one who wishes they had the opportunity to step into Cher’s shoes (both literally and figuratively), or try out her virtual closet and extensive wardrobe. Luckily, that dream can now become a reality. To commemorate the film’s fashion-forward legacy, the chic L’Ermitage Beverly Hills hotel has partnered with Paramount, Bloomingdale’s, and Clueless costume designer Mona May to unveil The Clueless Suite. The bright, pastel-splashed 750-square-foot space would certainly earn two snaps from Cher. Inside, you’ll find a large bed decked out in pastel pink and adorned with fluffy pillows, a spacious living area with a full-size couch and access to a private balcony, and playful odes to the film—including a yellow plaid accent wall inspired by Cher’s first-day-of-school look, a neon sign with Cher’s famous quote “Carpe diem! Okay?”, fuzzy pens, and Liechtenstein-style pop art. You’ll also have access to a white Jeep Wrangler, bringing you one step closer to “rolling with the homies” through Beverly Hills.
And for the pièce de résistance—and the thing most of us have wished was real since the film’s 1995 debut—the suite’s walk-in closet serves as a fashionable portal to Cher Horowitz’s iconic style. It’s draped with rotating fashion pieces from Bloomingdale’s, which were curated by Mona May with in-house stylists. You’ll be asked to fill out a pre-arrival style quiz to personalize recommended outfits, all of which are available to shop via QR code. Guests also get a free membership to Fitted, the official virtual Clueless closet app of the anniversary campaign, as well as a $100 Bloomingdale’s gift card, a VIP in-store styling appointment with Bloomingdale’s stylists, and a Dior Beauty glam session. Bookable from July 12 through September 1, the Clueless Suite starts at $1,995 per night with a two-night minimum. Reservations can be made on the L’Ermitage Beverly Hills website.
If you’re unable to book the Clueless suite, don’t lose all hope. L’Ermitage guests can also opt for “The Cher’mitage Experience,” a signature add-on available with any suite stay that includes Clueless-themed turn-down treats, a Polaroid camera, movie streaming, and a complimentary sunset toast at the hotel’s new rooftop lounge, Poza.
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