Leaving the motel room where I’d rested the past 3 nights felt a little sad but I wanted to be moving again. I grabbed a sandwich for lunch and another for the road from a cute deli nearby too. This did mean I got to the trail a little late though, roughly 2:30. My stupid ankle was hurting again now and it made the walk fairly unpleasant. I got to Red’s Meadow where I’d heard they were serving ice cream but it was the evening now and it looked like they had closed down for the day. My mood already low and not wanting to pay for camping, I continued onward instead, forgetting that they also had a hot spring.

I ended up finding a tiny tent site nearby Sotcher Lake and grumpily set up there. Lesson learned here; try not to spiral. My ankle hurting led me to skip past Red’s Meadow which meant I missed the hot spring there.

Day 83: Uneventful Days

The night was cold and I slept in then had a slow morning. My pack was heavy and I was moving slowly which, combined with getting out of camp late, limited my miles today; I barely did 12. I ate lunch at a campground and had to scare away an particularly industrious Stellar’s Jay who kept trying to get to my food. I respect the effort but this food is for me, little bird.

The rest of the walk was largely uneventful. The entire day was one long but thankfully gradual uphill and the views of the valley and surrounding mountains only got better. I continued to churn through audiobooks as they were kinda the only thing keeping me going. I ended up making camp on the side of a mountain with a gorgeous valley below. It was surprisingly well-sheltered for being up on a ridge. I ate dinner staring out at the snowcapped peaks and the trees and lakes below.

Day 84: Donohue Pass; Into Yosemite!

The night was again cold and I was glad my habit of stuffing my water filter into my sleeping bag had stayed so consistent this trail. For the curious, our water filters are vulnerable to freezing. If the water inside turns to ice it will expand and compromise the filter in a way that is almost undetectable. Usually this is only a risk at night thankfully so simply going to sleep with it usually means it will stay warm.

The morning was fairly unremarkable as I walked to the base of Donohue Pass, save for Thousand Island Lake which was absolutely gorgeous. I met a hiker called Trooper there before taking my lunch and nap. Afterwards I began the climb and while going up I began to hear distant thunder. It remained distant thankfully which was a very good thing as I was well above the tree line and with limited places to take cover. The numerous marmots showed no fear of course; must be nice having a hole you can retreat to. Thankfully there was almost no snow on the ground so although the ascent was steep it did go quickly.

As I reached highest point and crossed into Yosemite National Park snow flurries started and the thunder suddenly got louder. I could see it was raining a few miles ahead in the valley below. Wanting to get below the tree line in case the storm turned my way, I hustled downhill, the fast speed also helping to keep me warm on a day that had turned quite cold. The snow intermittently fell all the way down though it was thankfully mild. There were many JMT hikers around again too.

While descending on a gravely switchback, my shoes suddenly lost traction on the rocks underneath me and before I knew it I was falling. Falling backwards thankfully, not forwards or to the side down the mountain. I cried out in expectation of the painful impact of my butt on the earth but to my surprise it never came. Sitting there I realized my pack had cushioned the fall almost completely, turning a bone-jarring jolt into just a bit of a jerk to my hips. Thank you, backpack.

I camped that evening in Lyell Canyon, enjoying the gorgeous meadows surrounded by the sharp canyon walls. Remembering my fall, I inspected my shoes and discovered that the tread was seriously worn down. The shoes it seemed were near their end of life and I suddenly realized that they were probably contributing to my ankle irritation now that they could no longer provide sufficient support. Clearly new shoes were in my future.

Day 85: Burgers in Tuolumne Meadows

The day began with a nice, gradual downhill through beautiful meadows. I passed many JMT hikers but started to see more and more day hikers as I approached Tuolumne Meadows. Suddenly, the trail joined with a well-paved road and I abruptly re-entered civilization. Cars were passing, tourists were walking about goggling at the sights, and at least two groups of deer were practically posing for photos.

I reached Tuolumne Meadows Grill right at lunch time. The hunger was in full swing and I consumes two burgers, fries, a salad, and a soda while my electronics charged. It was reasonably priced too, a surprise for such a touristy area!

I headed out around 3, quickly running into Myles and Swing Set who I’d met in Mammoth. We hiked together past multiple waterfalls and vast views. Yosemite felt noticeably different than the previous stretch of the Sierra; the mountains felt lower but rocker somehow. I camped that night at Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp, quite close to the base of Tuolumne Falls. I was still full from those lunch burgers too so slept early.

Trail Stats:

Catholes: 28

Stops to filter water: 117

Resupplies: 14

Hitches: 15

Zeros: 15

Crys on trail: 12

Blisters: 12

Gear repairs: 19

Miles Skipped: 212.3

Significant Water Crossings: 75

Falls: 1

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Sunday, July 20, 2025