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Solo Travellers

Tracee Ellis Ross Loves Seeing the World Solo

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LA: I mean, you’ve done so much now that you’re even making a show about it, but I want to go back to that first trip you just mentioned where you were 22, where did you go?

TER: Yeah, so the first trip I took was to Pink Sands, a hotel in The Bahamas, and the sand was pink. It was so beautiful. I went by myself and I remember I am still friends with this person. This beautiful man was there with his girlfriend. He was gorgeous. He was much older than me. And years later he said to me, “I thought you were a kept woman,” which is such a gross expression.

LA: And an old-fashioned one.

TER: It’s just a gross terrible expression. But the reason I thought it was interesting is there was a sense of there’s no way I could be on this trip of my own accord, paid for by myself. I was 22, I had just finished my first TV show and I don’t know. It was this glorious trip and I was just busy enjoying my company. One of the things that happens when you’re solo traveling and happened on that trip was it’s like an experiment in, are you comfortable enough to say, “I don’t know what that is. Can you tell me what that is on a menu?” Or to be uncomfortable enough to be sitting somewhere by yourself.

And I always tell people who are like, “I don’t know. I could never go on a trip by myself.” I say, “It might not be for you. However, one of the best ways to start is start by going to dinner by yourself. Start at five o’clock on a Tuesday, but then try going on a Friday or a Saturday night when a restaurant is full and you have to go up to the hostess or the maitre d’ and say, table for one.” And they’re like, “Oh, just you?”

“Yeah.”

“Are you waiting for someone?”

“I am not.” Or you can start by going to the movies by yourself. See how that goes because you will, on a solo trip, you will have multiple table for one experiences.

LA: It’s so interesting when you were describing that and also describing that trip to Pink Sands, and it reminded me of a trip that I did, which was a work trip. So often working at Condé Nast Traveler, I end up staying in these fabulous hotels by myself.

TER: Yes, that’s amazing.

LA: Which is amazing. And I was sitting having dinner on my own at this beautiful hotel, and a man literally shouted across the restaurant, “You alone, why are you alone?” It’s really fascinating to me how even if you start to feel comfortable with yourself, it makes other people uncomfortable.

TER: Other people. Yeah. It is interesting. I mean, I think it’s an exercise in holding your own space for multiple days. And I’ll tell you some of my tips that I do and use. So I have discovered through trial and error that a solo trip for me is no more than four nights. When I shift over into five nights, I start to feel like it works back on myself and I do feel lonely. And now this might change as I get older or whatever, but four days feels nourishing, it feels comfortable. My mind is not a dangerous neighborhood, whereas I flip over to the other side. And so what happens is you don’t have someone to share things with, and so you’re sort of holding your own experience.



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Ruth Orkin on the Italian male gaze

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For decades people have speculated about this image: American Girl in Italy, by the great US photographer Ruth Orkin. On Florence’s Piazza della Repubblica in 1951, a tall young woman in a black dress walks the gauntlet between clusters of suit-wearing men. A few of them are leering at her. One man grabs his crotch, his lips pursed around some presumably unprintable utterance. Almost all of them are following her with their eyes. The woman’s face is hard to read, though she seems aggrieved by the attention – if not outright fearful for her safety.

In fact, according to the woman herself, Ninalee Allen Craig, there was something altogether more playful going on – though she insisted, to counter another assumption, that the photograph wasn’t staged. Craig, 23 at the time, was travelling around Europe when she encountered Orkin, who was staying at the same dollar-a-night hotel as her in Florence. The two women shared notes on solo travel and Orkin proposed a photo essay on the subject.

The next day they jaunted around the city, Orkin snapping the younger woman as she gazed at statues, chatted across café tables and rode shotgun in an open-top sports car.

At the Piazza della Repubblica, Orkin asked Allen to walk the gauntlet twice. The first time, Allen “clutched at herself and looked terribly frightened”, Orkin recalled in 1979. “I told her to walk by the second time, ‘as if it’s killing you but you’re going to make it’” – and that’s the shot that was used.

Allen’s memory of the scene was much sunnier. “I was having the time of my life,” she told CNN in 2017, the year before she died aged 90. “I was Beatrice walking through the streets of Florence.” In an interview with the Guardian she said the image “has been interpreted in a sinister way but it was quite the opposite. [The men] were having fun and so was I.”

Orkin’s photographs of Allen were published in Cosmopolitan in 1952. The article, featuring tips on “money, men and morals to see you through a gay trip and a safe one”, was entitled Don’t Be Afraid to Travel Alone. 

New York – New York, a show of photographs by Ruth Orkin, will be at CDIS / PhotoEspaña in Santander from 18 July to 18 October



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51 Airbnbs With Incredible Pools, From Joshua Tree to Lake Como

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While the decision to book an Airbnb is often driven by very practical considerations—location, cost, availability, and so on—we believe it’s just as important to shoot for that x-factor: in this case, a jaw-dropping swimming pool. Using Airbnb’s “amazing pools” category and our own research (yes, we’ve been lucky enough to stay in a few of these properties ourselves), we pulled together a list of 50 of the best Airbnbs with private pools around the world. From an Italian villa with an infinity pool overlooking the shores of Lake Como to a Japanese farmhouse that also boasts a sauna, these open-air retreats will take your next aperitivo hour or sunbathing session to the next level.

Whether you’re planning a bachelorette party, romantic weekend escape, or group getaway, there’s a spot on this list for every type of trip. After all, nothing beats spending a day in the water, especially when it’s in the backyard of your very own vacation home. Read on for our edit of the best Airbnbs with pools, with bucket-list picks from nearly every continent.

We’ve selected these listings based on Superhost status, editor stays, ratings, amenities, location, decor, and previous guest reviews. This gallery has been updated with new information since its original publish date. Additional reporting by Maddie Flager.




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11 Best Flared Leggings for Travel Days, According to Our Editors

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“What does everyone wear on the plane?” a colleague recently asked in the office. Before I had a chance to recommend our best leggings for flight days, she continued: “Don’t say leggings. They’re comfy, but personally I think they’re too casual to wear outside the gym.” Such is the plight of the fashion-forward traveler. How does one balance feeling genuinely comfortable in an economy seat without dressing like they’re about to settle in for the night or got lost on the way to a HIIT class?

Flared leggings might be the answer. While skinny jeans and bodycon dresses have long been banished to the back of the closet, athleisure has only more recently embraced the joys of flowier fabrics. Look now and you’ll see stylish types opting for loose, stretchy flares everywhere from reformer Pilates class to brunch and airport lounges alike.

These newer, breezier cuts range from full-flowing palazzo pants to more sleek, compressive kick flares in fabrics ranging from stretchy spandex to ultra-soft cotton. They’re different enough from regular leggings to shake off any ‘gym gear’ associations, while retaining the stretchy waistbands and breathable fabrics that are a must-have for flight days. That means they’re equal parts versatile and comfortable, and a bit smarter than wearing loungewear out of the house.

Both the US and UK Traveler teams tested 11 of the best pairs of wide-leg leggings from top brands such as Lululemon, Adanola, Tala, and Alo Yoga. We hunted for buttery-soft, relaxed fits that looked flattering and felt comfortable on the move, with waistbands that wouldn’t roll down in a plane seat. The pairs below made the cut.



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