Restaurants & Food
The Promise of Regenerative Agriculture
The Importance of Agrobiodiversity
The lack of agricultural biodiversity in farming systems threatens nutritional security in India and the African continent—home to nearly 3 billion people, or roughly 40 percent of the world’s population.[1] Globally, 600 million smallholder farmers—the majority of them in India and Africa—who work on less than two hectares of land and produce about 35 percent of world’s food, are key to maintaining biodiversity and ensuring food and nutrition security for their local and national populations.
When agricultural systems lack diversity, they become more vulnerable to pests, diseases, and environmental stresses, leading to reduced yields and thereby leaving populations with less variety in nutritious foods. Monoculture practices also degrade soil health and ecosystem resilience over time, further compromising food production and long-term food security.[2] Limited access to diverse and nutrient-rich food due to a lack of agricultural biodiversity contributes to the burden of malnutrition and food insecurity in both India and Africa. In India, approximately 224.3 million people are undernourished, while across the continent of Africa, the number stands at 278 million.[3] These staggering figures underscore the urgent need to prioritise the promotion of agricultural biodiversity.
Figure 1: Key Components of Agrobiodiversity
Source: Food and Agriculture Organization[4]
Note: The figure also illustrates how agro-biodiversity is intrinsic to overall biodiversity.
Agricultural biodiversity encompasses the vast array of plants, animals, and microorganisms utilised in agriculture and food production, highlighting the richness and resilience of ecosystems cultivated by generations of farmers (Figure 1).[5] Agro-biodiversity provides, first, a rich source of nutrients and dietary diversity.[6],[7] Traditional crops and local varieties often have higher nutritional value than commercial monocultures. Indigenous varieties of millets, sorghum, and pulses in both India and Africa, for example, are often more resilient to adverse environmental conditions, and are rich in essential nutrients like iron, zinc, and calcium. By promoting the cultivation and consumption of these diverse crops, rural communities can reduce malnutrition and achieve better overall health outcomes.
Second, agrobiodiversity contributes to ecosystem resilience and sustainability.[8] Diverse farming systems are more resilient to pests, diseases, and climate variability and promote sustainable agriculture; they also support cultural and traditional knowledge systems.[9] These traditions often involve the cultivation of a diverse range of crops and the use of indigenous farming practices suited to local conditions. By preserving and promoting these traditional knowledge systems, rural communities can enhance their resilience to external shocks and maintain their cultural identity as well.
How Regenerative Agriculture Helps Small Farmers
Regenerative agriculture, based on the principles of agrobiodiversity, is farming that builds and improves soil fertility while sequestering and storing atmospheric carbon dioxide, increasing on-farm diversity, and improving water and energy management (Figure 2).[10]
Figure 2: Core Principles of Regenerative Agriculture
Source: AgriCaptureCO2 [11]
It is a form of agriculture that focuses on working with nature to ensure a wide set of benefits, as enumerated in Table 1. Farms that practice regenerative agriculture have higher and more stable yields, spend less on inputs, and develop natural capital and ecosystem services while building agricultural resilience.[12]
Table 1: Benefits of Regenerative Agriculture
| Soil Health | Improves soil health by increasing organic matter in the soil, improving soil structure, and encouraging microbial diversity, which in turn leads to improved soil fertility, nutrient cycling, and water retention. |
| Biodiversity Conservation | Biodiversity is protected by combining a variety of crops, rotational grazing, and habitat remediation. By fostering natural pest management, reducing the need for pesticides, and providing habitats for native species, regenerative agriculture increases the resilience of ecosystems. |
| Water Conservation | Techniques such as cover crops and less tillage lead to improved water infiltration, less soil erosion, and less pollutant runoff into water bodies. Water conservation is also encouraged by using watershed management and effective irrigation techniques. |
| Climate Change Mitigation | By storing carbon in the soil and absorbing carbon dioxide (CO2) from the atmosphere, regenerative agriculture helps slow down global warming, improving soil structure and making it less susceptible to droughts, floods, and other climate-related pressures. |
| Improved Food Security and Stronger Local Economies | Reduces reliance on long-distance food transportation and external inputs by encouraging diverse farming systems and local food networks, thus improving food security. It bolsters the local economy and promotes community resilience and small-scale farming. |
| Resilient Agro-ecosystems | Agro-ecosystems are more resilient to environmental stresses and shocks when they are managed holistically. This form assists in long-term risk mitigation, adaptation, and productivity maintenance by enhancing ecosystem services and functions.[13] |
Source: Alam Sher et al., Discov Sustain 5, 462 (2024)[14]
Figure 3: Smallholder Farmers’ Gains from Regenerative Practices
Source: Compiled and illustrated by the authors
The efficacy of regenerative farming has repeatedly been demonstrated. Zero-budget natural farming practices in Andhra Pradesh, India, have demonstrated a 10–20 percent increase in yields of rice and vegetables while reducing input costs.[15] In Eastern Rwanda, a meta-analysis of smallholder farms found that diversified cropping systems reduced the impact of droughts by maintaining yields that are 20–40 percent higher than monocultures.[16] Farmers practicing mixed cropping with millets and legumes experienced fewer crop losses during droughts compared to those growing water-intensive crops like rice.[17] Trials in Zambia on growing maize in rotation with doubled-up legumes showed improved food security for smallholder households while increasing total farm yield.[18] Mulching and cover cropping practices improved water retention in semi-arid areas, reducing irrigation needs by 25 percent.[19] Rainwater harvesting combined with regenerative practices have improved crop yields by 15–30 percent in water-scarce regions like Rajasthan in India. In Ethiopia, biodiversity-rich farming systems have shown increased resilience to drought while also reducing malnutrition rates by improved access to micronutrient- and protein-rich foods.[20] Techniques like zai pits[a] have restored degraded lands, enabling the growth of diverse crops such as sorghum and cowpea in some of the dry lands of sub-Saharan Africa.[21],[22] Diversified farming systems with integrated livestock can lead to improved access to nutritional food for local communities while unlocking sustainable and diverse sources of income for smallholder farmers both in India and Africa.[23]
While India benefits from diverse agro-climatic zones and food cultures, it faces challenges in promoting localised food systems and ensuring affordable access to quality produce for all. Bridging the gap between demand and availability is crucial to reviving inclusive food practices. Millet-based programmes in states such as Karnataka have improved dietary diversity and addressed micronutrient deficiencies, especially among women and children.[24] A millet–pulse–groundnut-based formulation has been found to be an effective, culturally appropriate, and scalable intervention to improve the growth and overall health of pre-school tribal children in Telangana.[25]
According to a 2021 UN-supported report by the Africa Regenerative Agriculture Study Group, adopting regenerative agricultural practices across the continent could add US$ 15 billion annually to its gross value added (GVA) per year by 2030, rising to US$70 billion by 2040.[26] In the sub-Saharan region, as per estimates, crop yield could increase 13 percent by 2040, with future increases of up to 40 percent. In such a scenario, per capita food consumption could increase by 13 percent and per capita daily calorie intake by 16 percent by 2040.[27] Water retention could improve up to 150 percent, and carbon sequestration could rise by 1.5 to 5 gigatons annually, depending on adoption levels. The practice has substantial financial backing and market interest, with certain multinational corporations making pledges to advance the practice of regenerative agriculture.[b],[28]
Crucial Challenges
Among the challenges to scaling agro-food systems are ensuring food security for a growing population, mitigating climate impacts on agriculture, restoring biodiversity through sustainable agricultural practices, and minimising environmental and societal impacts of commercialised agriculture. Regenerative agriculture, with its holistic focus on social, economic, and environmental aspects of farming, is a promising means of addressing some of these challenges.
Policy frameworks often favour monoculture crops and high-input agricultural practices, neglecting the importance of agro-biodiverse and regenerative methods in ensuring food and nutrition security for rural communities.[29] Limited policy support for regenerative farming limits its adoption. In both India and Africa, subsidies favour monoculture systems. Compounding the challenge is the lack of a uniform definition of ‘regenerative agriculture’, the absence of a common baseline, and the different interpretations of the term by different actors in the agricultural supply chain, leading to confusion and lack of acceptability among national policymakers.
Another barrier to adoption in both India and Africa is the lack of access to technical knowledge/support and financial resources for smallholders, which would have enabled them to understand and implement regenerative practices effectively.[30] The homogenising effects of globalisation, leading to limited markets for diverse and regenerative produce, constrain economic incentives for those engaged in regenerative farming, thereby making the problem worse. It explains why millions of smallholder households in both regions struggle to stay afloat.
Another key barrier is the initial productivity loss farmers experience when transitioning from synthetic inputs. This deters adoption, despite the long-term benefits of regenerative farming.[31] Efforts must focus on raising awareness about the long-term financial gains and environmental benefits of this method. While small farmers with limited resources are concerned about financial stability, they also recognise the importance of environmental sustainability, especially when it directly affects their yields and long-term productivity.
Integrating regenerative crop systems with small-scale rearing of animals like fowl and caprine is a sustainable solution to enhance short-term incomes. Animal husbandry also provides on-farm-produced bio-inputs and supports environmental sustainability without significantly increasing greenhouse gas emissions.
Food waste is another problem both regions face. It occurs both at the back-end (in the farming-to-manufacturing process, due to the absence of adequate storage, inefficient supply chains, and post-harvest losses), but increasingly at the front-end as well, due to consumer over-purchase, improper storage, confusion over food labelling, and disposal of edible food. Responsible consumption, including mindful buying and reduced waste, is essential.[32] Improving efficiency in the food supply chain is crucial, as current inefficiencies lead to 20-25 percent food losses, keeping prices high and limiting access to nutrition for many.[33] Greater awareness and affordability can drive large-scale adoption of nutritious food. Additionally, integrating crop systems with the broader food system is essential to ensure a seamless connection across the entire food chain, benefiting both producers and consumers.
Pathways for Effecting Change
Collaborative endeavours across various domains are required to overcome the challenges described in this report. Supporting small-scale farmers by providing them access to diverse seeds and breeds, promoting agro-ecological farming practices, strengthening local seed systems, and integrating biodiversity conservation into agricultural policies are essential steps towards enhancing agro-biodiversity and securing food and nutrition for rural communities. Farmer Producer Organizations (FPOs) offer a hybrid model, combining cooperative and private sector elements, enabling collaboration through a public-private partnership (PPP) approach.[34]
Modern agriculture relies on supply chains to markets for food security, efficiency, and sustainability. These link farmers to consumers, via various players such as input suppliers, processors, distributors, and even retailers. In both India and Africa, agriculture has a deep cultural connect, with farmer experience playing a vital role in adopting technologies and practices. In such settings, using markets and supply chains as levers would facilitate the adoption of regenerative agricultural practices by creating local demand for quality food. Engaging with agricultural corporations to invest in carbon-neutral and regenerative supply chains would also incentivise farmers to shift towards soil-restoring practices. It would ensure that smallholders are supported with the costs of soil testing, access to quality seeds, and compliance with certification standards.
The challenges of climate change, depletion of resources like water, land degradation, and the growing demand for sustainably produced food make agricultural supply chains pivotal for nutrition availability. The global regenerative-sourced product market is projected to grow from US$ 8.7 billion in 2022 to US$ 16.8 billion by 2027, driven by rising demand for sustainable and nutritious food and corporate investments in sustainability.[35] This growth offers farmers opportunities to enhance their income through market linkages, eco-friendly practices, and the potential of accessing carbon credits, improving both their profitability and thereby, their resilience. This can ensure long-term financial stability for smallholder farmers while contributing to environmental benefits like improved soil health and biodiversity.
The key to advancing regenerative agriculture is a holistic approach. No single player or segment can drive it alone; it must be integrated across the entire food chain. Governments need to create supportive frameworks and coordinate policy efforts across various relevant departments, while markets should focus on execution and value creation. A coordinated effort should also drive the formulation of a science-backed uniform standard on regenerative agriculture with clear targets and actionable steps. National or regional statutory standards’ bodies should lead such an effort for industry-wide acceptance and large-scale on-farm adoption.
Reaping a Rich Harvest: Success Stories
There are case studies from both India and Africa which demonstrate that regenerative agriculture is indeed helping local farming and rural communities, giving them access to enhanced food and nutrition security, while also improving their incomes and promoting biodiversity.
In Tanzania, for example, according to the World Food Programme, around 20 percent of all families cannot afford food with “sufficient calories”, and more than 50 percent “cannot afford a nutritious diet”.[36] However, agrobiodiversity-focused activities targeting both the production and consumption of locally available nutritious food have improved the nutritional status and income of 22,500 smallholder coffee producers in its southern highlands, a region leading in malnutrition prevalence.
In Madhya Pradesh, India, the adoption of regenerative farming practices—among them, crop diversification, use of bio-based pesticides and fertilisers, and efficient water management—has improved farm incomes and local availability of nutritious and affordable food for 50,000 smallholder families.
Table 2 highlights some of the good practices across India and Africa which can promote sustainable and regenerative agricultural practices as well as protect local biodiversity.
Table 2: Good Practices Across India and Africa
| Initiative | Strategy/Tool | Good Practice (India) | Good Practice (Africa) |
| Community Seed Banks | These preserve agro-biodiversity, enabling local communities to safeguard their traditional seed varieties, improve resilience to climate change, and ensure food security. | Millet seed banks in Karnataka have supported local farming communities by providing drought-resistant varieties.[37] | Seed banks in Ethiopia have conserved indigenous seeds, ensuring farmers’ access to climate-resilient crops.[38] |
| Integrated Value Chains | These combine production, processing, marketing, and distribution, while also promoting sustainable and bio-diverse agricultural systems. | Millet-based value chains under the government’s “Millets Mission,[39] which aims to increase the acreage of millets, their productivity and introduced more millet-based products. | Programmes promoting the growing of African indigenous vegetables,[40] which have been neglected in favour of commercial crops and are regarded as ‘poor people’s’ plants. |
| Progressive Policies and Incentives | Aligning of government policies, financial incentives, and institutional support, to create an environment conducive to sustainable agriculture and biodiversity conservation | – National Agro-forestry Policy – National Mission on Sustainable Agriculture – National Biodiversity Action Plan – The Pradhan Mantri Krishi Sinchayee Yojana (Prime Minister’s Irrigation for Farmers Programme) – Farmers’ Cooperatives and Federations for Agro-Biodiversity | – Comprehensive Africa Agriculture Development Programme – African Union’s Policy on Agriculture and Food Security – Ecological Organic Agriculture Initiative – Support for Indigenous Knowledge and Practices – Support for Farmer-Led Seed Banks and Indigenous Crop Preservation |
| Use of Information and Communications Technologies (ICT) Support | A valuable tool in supporting good practices in agro-biodiversity | Platforms like mKisan[41] and eNAM[42] offer farmers access to research-based advice, market trends, and crop diversification techniques | Mobile-based services such as iCow[43] and mFarm[44] provide information on organic farming, seed varieties, and agro-ecological practices, promoting the use of diverse, climate-resilient crops |
| Geographical Indication (GI) Tagging | Promotes and protects agro-biodiversity by recognising the unique qualities of region-specific products | – Traditional Spices and Herbs-Kashmir Saffron[45] – Promoting Agroecological System-Basmati Rice[46] | – Traditional Crops and Conservation- Teff, a gluten-free ancient grain in Ethiopia[47] – Nutritional and Medicinal Plants-Kenyan Tea[48] |
| Low-Carbon Rice Cultivation | An essential part of promoting agro-biodiversity while addressing climate change concerns | – System of Rice Intensification[49] – Alternate Wetting and Drying[50] | – Integrated rice-livestock systems in countries like Ghana[51] – Rice-legume cropping systems[52] |
Source: Author’s own, compiled from multiple sources
Recommendations
Regenerative agriculture is a viable solution to food security challenges in rural Africa and India; it also boosts resilience to climate change and improves rural livelihoods. Scaling regenerative practices requires coordinated efforts in policy, research, and market development, alongside farmer education and empowerment. The following paragraphs outline some of these crucial elements.
- Investing in agro-ecological farming methods with the farmer as the key stakeholder, fostering collaboration between states, NGOs, and local communities to implement such initiatives and integrate them into existing schemes;
- Promoting integrated crop-livestock systems to enable smallholders to access diversified diets and income, and enhanced soil fertility;
- Raising awareness about the importance of agrobiodiversity and regenerative agricultural practices for nutrition and food security, integrating nutrition education into agri-extension services and outreach programmes;
- Coordinating policy efforts across agricultural, environmental, and nutrition sectors to incentivise sustainable and regenerative farming practices, conserve biodiversity, and promote healthy diets.
Shoba Suri is Senior Fellow, Health Initiative, ORF.
Kritika Banerjee is Senior Communications Manager, Solidaridad Asia.
This report builds on the insights shared during ORF and Solidaridad Asia’s panel discussion, “Regenerative Agriculture and Agro-biodiversity for Food Security in Africa and India: Empowering Smallholders through Markets Approaches”, held on 11 November 2024 in New Delhi.
Endnotes
[a] A traditional farming method that originated in West Africa, where small, shallow pits are dug into the ground and filled with manure or other organic nature before planting a crop.
[b] Nestlé, Unilever and PepsiCo are among the FMCG giants to sign up to a new framework agreement for the transition to regenerative agriculture.
[1]Irene Hoffmann, “Declining Biodiversity Threatens Food Security,” World Food J, May 22, 2021, https://www.welthungerhilfe.org/news/latest-articles/2021/the-loss-of-biodiversity-threatens-world-food-security#:~:text=Close%20to%2020%25%20of%20the,of%20freshwater%20species%20are%20threatened.
[2] Kritika Banerjee et al., “Agrobiodiversity as an Approach Towards Food and Nutrition Security for Rural Communities in Africa and India,” T20 Brazil Policy Brief, https://t20brasil.org/media/documentos/arquivos/TF01_ST02_Agrobiodiversity_as66d75dcac0264.pdf
[3]FAO, IFAD, UNICEF, WFP and WHO, The State of Food Security and Nutrition in the World 2022, Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, 2022, https://doi.org/10.4060/cc0639en
[4]“What is Agrobiodiversity?,” https://www.fao.org/4/y5609e/y5609e01.htm.
[5]Karl S. Zimmerer et al., “Urbanization and Agrobiodiversity: Leveraging a Key Nexus for Sustainable Development,” One Earth 4, no. 11 (2021): 1557-1568.
[6]Diana V Luna-González et al., “Higher Agrobiodiversity is Associated with Improved Dietary Diversity, But Not Child Anthropometric Status, of Mayan Achí People of Guatemala,” Public Health Nutrition 21, no. 11 (2018): 2128-2141.
[7]Dileep Kumar Pandey et al., “Biodiversity in Agricultural and Food Systems of Jhum Landscape in the West Garo Hills, North-eastern India,” Food Security 14, no. 3 (2022): 791-804.
[8]Simon Wambui Mburu et al., “Agrobiodiversity Conservation Enhances Food Security in Subsistence-Based Farming Systems of Eastern Kenya,” Agriculture & Food Security 5, 2016: 1-10.
[9]Ma Nan et al., “The Significance of Traditional Culture for Agricultural Biodiversity—Experiences from GIAHS,” Journal of Resources and Ecology 12, no. 4 (2021): 453-461.
[10] Regenagri, “Regenagri — A Regenerative Agriculture Initiative,” September 5, 2024, https://regenagri.org/.
[11] Agri Capture CO2, “The Six Principles of Regenerative Farming: Why Are They Important?,” June 20, 2023, https://agricaptureco2.eu/the-six-principles-of-regenerative-farming-why-are-they-important/
[12]Regenagri, “Regenagri — A Regenerative Agriculture Initiative”
[13] Alam Sher et al., “Importance of Regenerative Agriculture: Climate, Soil Health, Biodiversity and its Socioecological Impact,” Discov Sustain 5, no. 462 (2024), https://doi.org/10.1007/s43621-024-00662-z
[14] Sher et al. “Importance of Regenerative Agriculture: Climate, Soil Health, Biodiversity and its Socioecological Impact”
[15]“Zero Budget Natural Farming in Andhra Pradesh Outperforms Conventional Agriculture |FAO,” https://www.fao.org/family-farming/detail/en/c/1640851/.
[16]Hashakimana Léonidas et al., “Monocropping Vs Mixed Cropping Systems Under a Changing Climate: Smallholder Farmers’ Perceptions and Farm Profitability in Eastern Rwanda,” Environmental and Sustainability Indicators 24, November 5, 2024: 100527, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.indic.2024.100527.
[17] Heba H Elsalahy et al., “Crop Resilience to Drought with and Without Response Diversity,” Frontiers in Plant Science 11, June 3, 2020, https://doi.org/10.3389/fpls.2020.00721.
[18] Blessing Mhlanga et al., “Intensifying Cropping Systems Through Doubled-Up Legumes in Eastern Zambia,” Scientific Reports 11, 2021, https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-021-87594-0.
[19] Addis Hailu Demo et al., “Enhancing Crop Yield and Conserving Soil Moisture Through Mulching Practices in Dryland Agriculture,” Frontiers in Agronomy 6, 2024: 1361697.
[20]S. Woolfrey et al., AgrInvest-Food Systems Project-Political Economy Analysis of the Ethiopian Food System (Italy: Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, 2021), https://openknowledge.fao.org/items/6d91286c-9c6b-4806-a7cb-852afda2e554.
[21]Serah W Kimaru-Muchai et al., “Zai Pits for Heightened Sorghum Production in Drier Parts of Upper Eastern Kenya,” Heliyon 7, no. 9 (2021).
[22]“How The Zaï Technique Is Helping Farmers Adapt to Climate Change in the Sahel,” World Economic Forum, August 10, 2023, https://www.weforum.org/stories/2023/08/zai-technique-sahel-farmers-adapt-climate-change/
[24]Seetha Anitha et al., “Acceptance and Impact of Millet-Based Mid-Day Meal on the Nutritional Status of Adolescent School Going Children in a Peri Urban Region of Karnataka State in India,” Nutrients 11, no. 9 (2019): 2077, https://doi.org/10.3390/nu11092077.
[25]Datta Mazumdar Saikat et al., “Effectiveness of Millet–Pulse–Groundnut Based Formulations in Improving the Growth of Pre-School Tribal Children in Telangana State, India,” Nutrients 16, no. 6 (2024): 819, https://doi.org/10.3390/nu16060819.
[26]Africa Regenrative Agriculture Study Group, “Regenerative Agriculture: An Opportunity for Businesses and Society to Restore Degraded Land in Africa,” https://www.iucn.org/sites/default/files/2022-06/regnererative_agriculture_in_africa_report_2021_compressed.pdf.
[27]Africa Regenrative Agriculture Study Group, “Regenerative Agriculture: An Opportunity for Businesses and Society to Restore Degraded Land in Africa”
[28]Sarah Zimmerman, “Nestlé, Danone and Other Major Food Companies Commit to Framework for Regenerative Agriculture,” Food Dive, October 2, 2023, https://www.fooddive.com/news/regenerative-agriculture-definition-sai-nestle-danone-unilever/695303/.
[29] FAO and PAR, Biodiversity for Food and Agriculture: Contributing to Food Security and Sustainability in a Changing World, Italy, Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations and Platform for Agrobiodiversity Research, 2011.
[30]Varala Rama Krishna et al., “Technology Adoption Barriers and Economic Solutions,” in Economic Impact of Agri-Tech Innovations on Extension Services, ed. Shankar Dayal Bharti et al. (Golden Leaf, 2024), https://www.researchgate.net/publication/386604140_Technology_Adoption_Barriers_and_Economic_Solutions
[31]Shawna Lemke et al., “Drivers and Barriers to Adoption of Regenerative Agriculture: Cases Studies on Lessons Learned from Organic,” International Journal of Agricultural Sustainability 22, no. 1 (2024), https://doi.org/10.1080/14735903.2024.2324216.
[32]Zhechen Zhang et al., “Municipal Solid Waste Management Challenges in Developing Regions: A Comprehensive Review and Future Perspectives for Asia and Africa,” Science of the Total Environment (2024): 172794, https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0048969724029413
[33]Rojas-Reyes et al., “Disruptions in the Food Supply Chain: A Literature Review,” Heliyon, 2024, https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S240584402410761X
[34] APAARI, “Good Practices Note on Institutional Innovations-1: Strengthening the Farmer Producer Organization Ecosystem for Farmer Prosperity,” 2023, https://www.apaari.org/good-practice-note-on-institutional-innovations-1-strengthening-the-farmer-producer-organization-ecosystem-for-farmer-prosperity/.
[35] Markets & Markets, “Regenerative Agriculture Market worth $16.8 Billion by 2027,” https://www.marketsandmarkets.com/PressReleases/regenerative-agriculture.asp
[36]WFP, Tanzania Country Brief February 2024, World Food Programme, 2024, https://www.wfp.org/countries/tanzania#:~:text=An%20estimated%2020%20percent%20of,of%20the%20sector’s%20labour%20force.
[37]Agriculture Working Group, Ministry of Agriculture and Farmers Welfare, Government of India, Embracing Millets: The Key to Enhancing Food Security and Nutrition (New Delhi: Ministry of Agriculture and Farmers Welfare, 2023) https://agriwelfare.gov.in/Documents/MOA_PIN01_Millets_Booklet_Final_24_Nov_2023.pdf
[38]Claire Provost, “Ethiopia Seed Bank’s Novel Approach to Preserving Diversity Under Threat,” The Guardian, October 19, 2022, https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2014/feb/19/ethiopia-seed-bank-preserving-diversity-under-threat-g8-new-alliance#:~:text=Founded%20in%201976%2C%20Ethiopia’s%20national,of%20drought%20and%20other%20threats.
[39]Niti Aayog & WFP, “Millets Mainstreaming: A Conceptual Framework,” 2021, https://www.niti.gov.in/sites/default/files/2022-08/Millets-Mainstreaming-Framework.pdf.
[40] FAO, “Toolbox for Sustainable Use of PGRFA,” https://www.fao.org/plant-treaty/tools/toolbox-for-sustainable-use/overview/en/
[41]Department of Agriculture and Farmers Welfare, Ministry of Agriculture and Farmers Welfare, “M – Kisan Portal,” https://mkisan.gov.in/
[42]Department of Agriculture and Farmers Welfare, Ministry of Agriculture and Farmers Welfare, “National Agricultural Market,” https://www.enam.gov.in/web/
[43] iCow Kenya, “iCow-iCow Kenya Home,” https://icow.co.ke/
[44] “mFarm,” https://www.mfarm.ng/
[45]“India International Kashmir Saffron Trading Centre (IIKSTC),” https://gikashmirsaffron.com/content/6/GI-Tag-Kashmir-Saffron.
[46]Pradyot R. Jena et al., “Impact Evaluation of Traditional Basmati Rice Cultivation in Uttarakhand State of Northern India: What Implications Does It Hold for Geographical Indications?,” World Development 40, no. 9 (2012): 1895-1907, https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0305750X12000654
[47]Teff Creations Company, “Teff: An Ancient Ethiopian Grain and Global Nutrition All-star,” The Teff Creations Company, March 21, 2024, https://teffie.me/blogs/teff-news/teff-an-ancient-ethiopian-grain-and-global-nutrition-all-star.
[48]“Adoption of Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) for Kenyan Tea,” International Journal of English Literature and Social Sciences 7, no. 1 (2022): 001-005, https://www.researchgate.net/publication/357836432_Adoption_of_Protected_geographical_Indication_PGI_for_Kenyan_Tea
[49]CEEW The Council, “System of Rice Intensification in India,” https://www.ceew.in/publications/sustainable-agriculture-india/system-of-rice-intensification
[50]Raghubar Sahu et al., “Alternate Wetting and Drying Technology for Rice Production,” Indian Farming 73, no. 3 (2023): 11-13, https://epubs.icar.org.in/index.php/IndFarm/article/view/133179
[51] P. M. Shanmugam et al., “Crop–Livestock-Integrated Farming System: A Strategy to Achieve Synergy Between Agricultural Production, Nutritional Security, and Environmental Sustainability,” Frontiers in Sustainable Food Systems 8, 2024, https://doi.org/10.3389/fsufs.2024.1338299.
[52]Caitlin Breen et al., “Legume Seed System Performance in sub-Saharan Africa: Barriers, Opportunities, and Scaling Options. A Review,” Agronomy for Sustainable Development 44, no. 2 (2024), https://doi.org/10.1007/s13593-024-00956-6.
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Foraging is a prominent culinary trend in the global dining scene. While it’s incredible to experience hyper-local produce at award-winning restaurants worldwide, it’s vital to remember that foraging has been integral to indigenous cuisines in almost all tribal communities of India for centuries. From Meghalaya and Assam in the Northeast to the rugged landscape of Ladakh and the forests of Jharkhand, communities have thrived due to their deep connection to seasons, forests, and locally available resources. Similarly, culinary buzzwords like ‘sustainability’ and ‘zero-waste cooking’ have been inherent practices in these communities for generations.
Today, highly trained international chefs discuss plant-based foods, local and seasonal produce, and nose-to-tail cooking. However, these have been inherent aspects of traditional cooking even in India’s most remote parts. We spoke to four champions promoting their regional cuisine, documenting it, educating others, and conducting restaurant pop-ups, to highlight indigenous ingredients, special dishes, and cooking techniques passed down through generations.
Revival Of The Forgotten Flavors Of Jharkhand
Jharkhand is home to 32 tribal communities, each with its own distinct food culture. “I’ve been able to document eight of these so far, but that’s just scratching the surface,” says Dr. Manisha Oraon. Not a typical food entrepreneur, Dr. Oraon is a dentist working in rural health, but her true passion lies in preserving Jharkhand’s tribal cuisines, long overshadowed and undocumented. Over the past six years, she has been on a personal mission to document, revive, and innovate upon the indigenous culinary traditions of her homeland. Her work stems from a growing concern of “forgotten identity,” as the traditional foods of Jharkhand—many of which are deeply sustainable and foraged from the forests—are disappearing from everyday lives, surviving only during ceremonies or festivals.
“When I went to the only restaurant in Ranchi that offers tribal food—Ajam Emba—I noticed that it served only the most basic dishes. None of the nuanced, seasonal, or ceremonial preparations were represented,” she laments. Another problem she notes is that people often equate Jharkhand’s food with dhuska or litti chokha, dishes that actually have their roots in the neighbouring state of Bihar. “Our food has a distinct identity that deserves recognition,” she states.
At the heart of traditional Jharkhandi meals is ‘maar jhor’, a staple across tribes in which the broth of an indigenous fibrous, low-glycemic brown rice is used to cook foraged greens. “We never had much access to pulses, so maar jhor became an important source of nutrition,” she explains. Meals also include chutneys, often made from bamboo shoots fermented in stages depending on the season and known locally as sandhana, and mashed preparations like chokha made from roasted tubers. Jharkhand’s cuisine also incorporates edible flowers found in forests, like roselle, kudrum, sania, and hemp flowers that are used in chutneys or added into the maar jhor. The culinary calendar is also in sync with the agricultural and religious one: “We worship trees, and through them, we honour the land and the food it gives us.”
Among the most underappreciated ingredients is mahua, a flower widely misunderstood as being used solely for making local liquor. “That stereotype of villages being alcoholic because of mahua is not only incorrect—it’s damaging,” she says. In reality, mahua has a wide range of uses. “Women eat three soaked mahua flowers in the morning to treat anaemia. We also dry them and use them as natural sweeteners or make them into candies and desserts,” explains Dr. Oraon. In one fascinating preparation, mahua flowers are slow-boiled for hours with roasted tamarind seeds and husk, forming a jaggery-like consistency used as a sweetmeat called mawa latha. “It’s what our people ate when there was nothing else. It was our dessert, a traditional treat,” she smiles. Mahua’s potential also extends to pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, with its seeds yielding oil used for burns and rashes, known locally as dori tel, akin to global shea butter.
Talking about global food trends, Dr. Oraon states that in many ways, Jharkhand’s food system has always been ahead of the curve. It champions nose-to-tail eating, fermentation, slow cooking, and zero-waste practices. It thrives on plant-based biodiversity, incorporates ancient grains like millets, and promotes climate-resilient crops. “We’ve been eating local, foraging, and preserving through sun-drying for generations—what the world is only now calling sustainable,” she says. With innovations like solar dehydrators, her farmer collective is now exploring ways to preserve ingredients more effectively while maintaining nutritional integrity. “We’re trying to combine traditional knowledge with modern techniques to protect what we have,” she says nonchalantly.
Meghalaya’s Tribal Dishes Find Space On Gourmet Tables
As the founder of Tribal Gourmet, A Northeast Indian Pop Up Kitchen, Tanisha Phanbuh’s mission is clear: not just to introduce people to the food of Meghalaya, but to change the way we think about indigenous cuisines from Northeast India. Based in Delhi but rooted in her Khasi heritage, she champions the region’s rich culinary diversity and deep traditions through pop-up kitchens and storytelling that highlight the nuances often overlooked in broader narratives.
“People tend to group all Northeast cuisines into one box,” she says, “but each state—and within them, each tribe—has distinct food traditions shaped by geography, history, and community.” In Meghalaya alone, the food of the Khasi, Jaintia, and Garo tribes varies not only in flavour but also in preparation. Khasi cuisine, for instance, is simple and straightforward, making it a great introduction for outsiders and first-time tasters, while Garo food reflects the state’s tropical climate, often using bolder, earthier ingredients.
A traditional meal in Meghalaya is based on steamed rice, accompanied by a variety of meat, greens, chutneys, and seasonal vegetables. “There’s an innate rhythm to how we eat,” Tanisha explains. “Summer meals are lighter—think stews with chicken or fish—while winters bring heartier fare, with pork, beef, and warming fermented bean pastes.” Interestingly, there’s a cultural preference to include bitter vegetables like bitter gourd or bitter eggplant at lunch, but not at dinner; such subtle dining rules have been passed down through generations.
What sets Meghalaya’s cuisine apart, especially for global audiences, is its deep reliance on hyperlocal and foraged ingredients. “Even in Delhi, I can access 40–50 unique ingredients each week from Northeast markets,” Tanisha says. Some standout elements include michinga, wild Sichuan pepper leaves prized for their heady aroma; tree tomatoes, tangier and meatier than conventional varieties; and sawtooth coriander, a sharper cousin of cilantro. Add to this an abundance of wild mushrooms, seasonal greens, and backyard herbs sourced from villages and forests, each telling a story of the land and the people who tend it.These traditional ingredients and methods are also remarkably in line with global food trends. “Fermentation, for example, is now seen as revolutionary,” she notes. “But we’ve been fermenting bamboo shoots, fish, and soybeans for generations.” Meghalaya’s respect for whole-animal cooking also mirrors the growing ‘nose-to-tail’ philosophy. Dishes like doh khlieh (pig brain salad) and ja doh (a pig’s blood in a risotto-like preparation) reflect not only ingenuity but a cultural reverence for resourcefulness and zero-waste cooking.
“In many ways, our food has been global before the world caught on,” Tanisha says with a smile. “I just wish more people knew about us, and that’s my lifelong goal.”
Ladakhi Cuisine Incorporates Warmth And Energy For The Harsh Climate
High in the trans-Himalayan region of Ladakh, the culinary tradition is deeply shaped by its geography, Buddhist culture, and the harsh yet beautiful climate of the mountains. Ladakhi cuisine is simple yet soul-nourishing with a strong focus on seasonality and sustainability. “Fermentation, drying, and sun-curing aren’t recent health fads here,” says Nilza Wangmo, founder of Alchi Kitchen, an all-women-run restaurant in Alchi. “They are time-honoured practices that our grandmothers taught us, methods that not only preserve food but also enhance its nutritional value, especially in a cold desert like Ladakh.”At its heart, Ladakhi food is an expression of resilience and harmony. Barley, the region’s staple grain, is transformed into dishes like phey or tsampa, while root vegetables, lentils, and wild greens are used in dishes that are as comforting as they are delicious. Even simple preparations like skyur, a fermented dough, or chhutagi, a hand-rolled pasta in a vegetable broth, reveal a delicate balance of texture and flavour. A typical Ladakhi meal is warm and filling, made with what is locally grown, especially essential in a place where winters are long and unforgiving. Flatbreads made from barley or wheat, broths such as thukpa, mokthuk, and chhanthuk, and generous helpings of mok mok (dumplings) make up daily meals. “Lunch might be a simple one-pot dish, but dinner is when the family gathers, especially in winter,” Nilza explains. Butter tea, locally known as gur gur cha, is consumed throughout the day offering both warmth and energy.
Local and foraged ingredients offer a rare insight into Ladakh’s biodiversity. Bright seabuckthorn berries (tsestalulu) bursting with Vitamin C, detoxifying nettles (zatsot), and the tangy native rhubarb (lachu) are not only delicious but also medicinal. Flavour enhancers like skotse (wild chives) and kornyot (wild cumin) deepen the sensory richness of Ladakhi food. These are ingredients that support immunity and well-being, principles now echoed in global wellness trends.
At Alchi Kitchen, the goal is clear: preserve the essence of Ladakhi cuisine while engaging in the global culinary conversation. “We’re deeply rooted in our traditions, but those traditions are now more relevant than ever,” says Nilza. “What the world is asking for—sustainability, plant-based diets, fermented foods, mindful eating—we’ve been doing for generations.” Their farm-to-table philosophy helps minimise food miles and maximise flavour by sourcing from local farms and foraging from the wild. But what sets Alchi Kitchen apart is its commitment to culinary storytelling. Every dish tells a story, that of a grandmother’s recipe, a family memory, or a harvest tradition. “In a fast-paced world, we offer a slow, immersive culinary experience that connects diners to the land, the people, and the past, mirroring the global trend toward experiential, mindful dining,” says Nilza.
The Simplicity, Sustainability, And Soul Of Assamese Home Food
For those who believe food tells the story of a place, Assamese cuisine offers a rich, deeply rooted narrative of heritage, ecology, and restraint. From foraged greens in forested villages to delicate fermentation techniques passed down through generations, Assamese food is a fine example of culinary subtlety and balance.
“As a food enthusiast with a passion for discovering indigenous cuisines, I find great joy in exploring the subtle nuances that define each culinary tradition. When it comes to my own Assamese cuisine, its uniqueness lies in the use of fresh, homegrown vegetables, a restrained yet thoughtful use of spices, and the emphasis on slow cooking techniques. These elements come together to create dishes that are not only deeply flavorful but also rooted in tradition and sustainability, making Assamese cuisine a true gem in the global gastronomic landscape,” says Parnashree Devi, a travel blogger who hails from Assam; she has been sharing the nuances of Assamese cuisine on various platforms.
Fresh, homegrown vegetables, seasonal herbs, and a nuanced use of spices are the cornerstones of this cuisine. Dishes are slow-cooked and designed to nourish. A traditional Assamese thali might feature the staple yellow daal, steamed rice, a mix of sautéed leafy greens (known locally as xaak), and simple but soulful sides like aloo pitika (mashed potatoes) or begun bhaja (fried eggplant). A more elaborate spread might include dishes like mati dail khar (a type of alkaline lentils), poita bhat (fermented rice), or kosuthuri kon bilahir logot, a rustic preparation of tender colocasia leaves with tangy cherry tomatoes. There’s also a wide variety of non-vegetarian fare such as lai xaak gahori (pork with mustard greens), til diya murgi (chicken with black sesame), and haah kumura (duck with ash gourd).
What makes Assamese cuisine so compelling on a global scale is its deep synergy with current culinary movements. “Farm-to-table cuisine is championed unequivocally as it’s a traditional way of life with the use of fresh herbs, wild greens, and locally sourced produce in daily cooking. Gut-friendly staples like fermented mustard seeds and poita bhat have been nourishing our people for centuries,” explains Parnashree. With its slow cooking methods, clean flavours, nutrient-dense dishes, and rich connection to land and heritage, Assamese cuisine is very much at par with global standards.
Related: Arunachal Pradesh Vs Assam — Which Northeast Indian Escape Is Right For You?
Note:
The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.
Written By
In recent years, the world has witnessed a renaissance of sorts in the culinary landscape — one that sees indigenous Indian ingredients and age-old cooking techniques stepping into the spotlight on global platforms. From Michelin-starred restaurants in London to boutique kitchens in Tokyo and New York, chefs are rediscovering the depth, complexity, and sustainability embedded in India’s food heritage. It’s not just about the curry any more — it’s about charcoal-grilled mustard fish from Bengal, Himalayan foraged greens, wood-fire-roasted meats from the Northeast, and millets made cool again.
From the forests of the Northeast to the spice fields of Kerala, India’s culinary landscape is rich with heritage, biodiversity, and flavours. And now, this once-local treasure trove is being celebrated on a global stage. Chefs, mixologists, and restaurateurs worldwide are not only using indigenous Indian ingredients but also reviving traditional cooking methods, giving them a place of prestige on international platforms. A deep dive…..
Indigenous Indian Ingredients on the Global Plate
India’s food culture is deeply rooted in local produce — often wild, seasonal, and medicinal. Today, the culinary world is embracing these ingredients for their nutritional value, flavour complexity, and cultural richness. Here are some of the most popular indigenous ingredients making waves globally:
Millets, long considered “poor man’s grain”, are enjoying a global resurgence. The UN declared 2023 as the International Year of Millets, and chefs like Rohit Ghai (of London’s Kutir and Manthan fame) are featuring dishes like millet khichdi with truffle oil and foxtail millet upma on refined tasting menus.
Jackfruit, often dubbed as a meat alternative, has become a darling of the plant-based movement. While traditionally cooked as kathal ki biryani or dry sabzi in Indian households, jackfruit tacos and BBQ-style pulled jackfruit are now found in global chains like Wagamama and even Whole Foods pre-packaged meals.
Indigenous Chillies: From bhoot jholokia to guntur, a variety of Indian chillies have made a mark on global menus. A promising example would be the use of Naga chillies at Tabla by Chef Floyd Cardoz and in chutneys at Dhamaka, New York.
Mahua: Another widely used indigenous staple, the mahua flower as well as mahua extract have found their way into menus such as in Ekaa, Mumbai, which uses it to flavour pork belly and desserts.
From Kalari to Churpi, and Kalimpong, India boasts of native varieties of cheeses and chefs have now started popularising them in gourmet dishes. Indian cheesemakers such as Kumaoni Blessings have been popularised by celebrated chefs including Gary Mehigan of MasterChef Australia fame.
Kokum, a souring agent from the Konkan belt, is increasingly being used in wellness drinks and cocktail infusions across upscale bars from Melbourne to Miami. The ingredient’s antioxidant properties and tangy punch have caught the attention of beverage curators like Alex Kratena in Europe, who incorporated kokum shrub into one of his tropical-inspired menus.
A Return to Roots: Traditional Cooking Techniques
Alongside the rise of ingredients is the rebirth of long-forgotten traditional cooking techniques. Indian cooking, often described as complex and laborious, is being re-examined with reverence by chefs and food historians all over the world. The return to slow-cooking, wood-fire, fermentation, and earthenware cooking reflects a global yearning for authenticity.
The Dum Pukht style — slow cooking in a sealed pot — has made its way into fine-dining kitchens from Dubai to Paris. At Trèsind Studio in Dubai (Michelin-starred), Chef Himanshu Saini reinterprets classic Indian dishes using traditional methods like dum to extract deep, soulful flavours. His version of lamb nihari cooked over 12 hours is a masterclass in patience and technique.
The bhuna, dhungar (coal smoking), and tandoori techniques are being reappropriated beyond Indian restaurants. Asma Khan, owner of London’s Darjeeling Express, often demonstrates the traditional use of smoking a dish with a coal and ghee to infuse richness — a method being embraced by food stylists and chefs worldwide for its dramatic flair and depth of aroma.
India’s nuanced approach to fermentation — from idli-dosa batter to rice kanji and achaar — is finally being understood as a sophisticated form of food science. Chefs like David Zilber (former head of fermentation at NOMA, Copenhagen) have referenced Indian pickling and fermentation techniques in his work, acknowledging their precision and diversity.
In New York, Semma, helmed by Chef Vishwesh Bhatt and backed by the team behind Michelin-starred Dhamaka, serves regional Indian fare from Tamil Nadu — all cooked in traditional clay pots. Their goat curry, simmered in earthenware, delivers an earthy depth that steel just can’t match.
Meanwhile, banana-leaf grilling — a staple in Kerala, Tamil Nadu and even Bengal (don’t forget the bhetki paturi!) — is now a theatrical and eco-friendly cooking style found in Thai-Indian fusion eateries in Sydney and LA, as well as London.
Restaurants harnessing Indian heritage:
Semma, New York City
Semma in NYC has redefined Indian cuisine in America by boldly spotlighting hyper-regional, home-style dishes from South India that are rarely seen on Western menus. Led by Chef Vijay Kumar and backed by the Unapologetic Foods group, the restaurant dives deep into the culinary traditions of Tamil Nadu, offering rustic, ancestral recipes like Nathai Pirattal (snail curry) and Venison Sukka. Its unapologetic celebration of authenticity — without diluting spice or storytelling — has earned Semma a Michelin star and positioned it as a cultural force changing the narrative of Indian food in the US.
Snail Curry at Semma, NYC
TresInd, Dubai
TresInd has pioneered a progressive Indian fine-dining movement in Dubai, fusing avant-garde techniques with deeply rooted Indian flavours. Helmed by Chef Himanshu Saini, the restaurant brings molecular gastronomy and modern plating into play while staying true to traditional ingredients and stories. Dishes like the deconstructed pani puri or khichdi of India pay homage to regional classics in a new-age format, making TresInd a trailblazer in elevating Indian food to haute cuisine status in the Middle East.
A5 Wagyu striploin prepared like the classic Pathar Kebab at TresInd, Dubai
Benares, London
Opened by acclaimed chef Atul Kochhar, Benares was one of the first Indian restaurants in the UK to receive a Michelin star, signaling a shift in how Indian cuisine was perceived in the UK. Nestled in the upscale Mayfair district, Benares champions a refined interpretation of regional Indian flavours, marrying them with British ingredients in elegant, globally-influenced dishes. Through its thoughtful menus and stylish presentation, Benares has been instrumental in placing Indian food firmly on the fine-dining map of London, moving it beyond curry-house clichés to culinary prestige.
Murg Jhol Momo served with Foie Gras at Benares, London
Avatara, Dubai
Avatara holds the distinction of being the first and only fully vegetarian Indian fine-dining restaurant in Dubai to receive a Michelin star. Created by the team behind TresInd, it reimagines India’s spiritual and culinary vegetarian roots through a multi-course tasting menu that is both seasonal and deeply philosophical. Chef Rahul Rana leads a kitchen that honors forgotten grains, temple foods, and Ayurveda-inspired techniques, presenting a narrative that shifts the focus from indulgence to introspection while showcasing the diversity of India’s plant-based traditions.
Klaayah, a melange of Bengali green pea luchi with shisho leaves, creamy green pea chokha and mustard-carrot jhol with a touch of green caviar at Avatara, Dubai
Enter Via Laundry is one of Melbourne’s most exciting and intimate dining experiences, founded by Chef Helly Raichura. What began as a private supper club hosted in her home has evolved into a refined restaurant celebrating regional Indian flavours through a carefully curated degustation menu. Located in Fitzroy North, the space retains its personal, almost clandestine charm — true to its name, guests literally enter through the laundry. The multi-course meals take diners on a journey across India’s diverse culinary landscape, featuring lesser-known ingredients and techniques rarely seen in mainstream Indian cuisine. With only a handful of seats available per night, Enter Via Laundry offers not just a meal, but a cultural narrative plated with precision and heart.
Kerala-style appetisers at Enter Via Laundry, Melbourne
Chourangi in London brings the bold, aromatic flavours of Calcutta to the heart of Marylebone, offering a refined and soulful take on Eastern India’s rich and diverse culinary heritage. Co-founded by celebrated restaurateur Anjan Chatterjee, the restaurant captures the spirit of Calcutta — a city known for its layered cultural influences — through a menu that draws inspiration from British, Mughlai, Bengali, and even Chinese cuisines. Dishes are crafted with over 300 spices and ingredients, showcasing everything from tangy street-style chaats and delicate seafood to robust slow-cooked meats and fragrant rice preparations. Set in a warm, stylish space with colonial-era touches, Chourangi blends nostalgia with modern finesse, introducing London diners to a lesser-explored side of Indian cuisine.
A Bengali classic, the Daab Chingri at Chourangi, London
A Culinary Identity Reclaimed
The rise of indigenous Indian ingredients and traditional cooking techniques on global platforms is more than a food trend — it’s a cultural reclaiming. For years, Indian food abroad was simplified, Anglicised, or relegated to takeaways. Today, it’s being elevated with nuance and integrity.
Chefs like Garima Arora, Prateek Sadhu, Asma Khan, Sujan Sarkar, and Chintan Pandya are unapologetically showcasing India’s diversity — not just through ‘classic dishes’ but through ancient methods, foraged ingredients, and tribal wisdom. It’s a movement rooted in pride. A movement that understands that the future of food may well lie in the past.
Chef Prateek Sadhu (left) of Naar and Chef Manish Mehrotra, known as the man behind Indian Accent and Comorin, both have been the champions of Indian ingredients as well as techniques. While Mehrotra put Indian dishes on the world map, Sadhu, on the other hand, is on a quest for bringing Himalayan biodiversity to the plate, Sadhu sources rare ingredients like sea buckthorn, black garlic from Ladakh, and local grains. His work emphasises sustainability and terroir.
Vikas Khanna has long been a torchbearer of India’s culinary arts, and through his international ventures, he’s brought temple cuisine, ancient grains, and tribal recipes into Michelin arenas with Junoon in New York and now the recently opened Bungalow in New York as well.
Garima Arora, India’s first female Michelin-starred chef, continues to bring techniques like open fire-roasting and fermentation to the fore at Gaa in Bangkok.
Chintan Pandya, whose restaurants Dhamaka, Adda, and Rowdy Rooster in New York have received immense acclaim, is unafraid to serve bold, unapologetically spicy Indian food — including items like goat kidney and liver fry, or Champaran mutton cooked in sealed clay pots.
Asma Khan is making Calcutta and her culinary roots from Awadh shine with her celebrity and even royalty-acclaimed spot Darjeeling Express in London. Her all-women kitchen is popular for dishes like the Calcutta-style dum biryani that masters the art of dum and slow cooking.
Pictures: Instagram and iStock
By Nikhil Merchant
The idea of celebrities owning restaurants in India isn’t new. We still remember the early-2000s’ buzz around Someplace Else in Mumbai, co-owned by Bobby Deol, or the excitement when Sachin Tendulkar opened his namesake restaurant in partnership with hotelier Sanjay Narang. Around the same time, Suniel Shetty’s H2O: The Liquid Lounge was another hotspot, driven less by food and more by the hope of spotting a star. Back then, these places were more like fan experiences than serious dining destinations.
A New Wave of Star-Backed Ventures
But something’s shifted. Over the past few years, we’ve seen a different kind of celebrity-owned establishment emerge—one with clearer intent, stronger partnerships, and deeper personal storytelling. Today’s celebrities aren’t just lending their names; they are curating spaces, investing time in the concept, and working alongside experienced professionals to shape something that resonates beyond the usual expectations.
There’s nostalgia, branding, and the careful projection of a public persona—all channelled through food. So what’s really driving this new wave of celebrity-led dining ventures? Why step into a business known for its high failure rate, even with money and fame in your corner? And when the allure fades, what really keeps these places standing?
It starts innocently enough. You’re at a restaurant—the interiors are swanky, with an air of glamour, metallic or mirrored glints, it’s all a bit surreal and elegantly showy. You pick up the menu and there it is—the name. Not printed (too gauche), but in the carefully italicised whispers floating through the air. “You know it’s their place, right?”
Dining With Identity and Intent
India’s celebrity-led hospitality boom has traded the old-school dazzle for a more curated kind of fame—a space where stars descend from front of camera into raw business, seeking solace in an industry that still knows how to keep you in the limelight. But if you think these are just vanity projects laundered with truffle fries, think again—the profit-and-loss sheet is very real.
Back in the day, it was Arth that hinted at what was possible. Designed by Gauri Khan, it became a two-pronged sensation—her high-design polish (and the chance to bump into her husband), paired with chef Amninder Sandhu’s signature fire-cooked menu. Today, names like Gaurav Batra—brand head at True Palate Hospitality—carried on that evolution. “We don’t just start blindly or star-struck,” he says. “We start with the guest—and ask, what are they hungry for that the market isn’t feeding?” His projects include filmmaker Karan Johar’s Neuma in Mumbai and now Jolene in Goa by Amrita Arora. “With Amu, we weren’t chasing flash-in-the-pan virality. We wanted something people came back to,” he adds.
If Amrita was enchanting the coast, her sister Malaika Arora brought poise to Mumbai. Her venture, Scarlett House, is what she calls “quiet and warm luxury,” converting a landmark bungalow in a village in Bandra to a haven of coziness and comfort, much like an elegant home.
“We focused on elevated simplicity,” she says, adding: “The idea was to build a high-touch experience with a strong word-of -mouth appeal —something that lasts longer than hype.” Co-founded with her son Arhaan, it’s equal parts elegance and Gen-Z fluency—from music to digital UX.
Batra isn’t slowing down either. He launched One8 Commune with ace cricketer Virat Kohli—a pan-India, premium-yet-approachable brand. Meanwhile, Yuvraj Singh —the World Cup-winning all-rounder with a knack for comebacks—follows suit with his latest venture in Gurgaon, KOCA. Inspired by childhood staples like kadhi chawal and rajma, he calls it a “culinary playground” grounded in the discipline and teamwork that defined his cricketing years. “Building KOCA required meticulous planning and collaboration,” he says. This foundation has been instrumental in shaping KOCA’s ethos and operations.
The narrative shifts when we consider the work and ideologies behind these celebrity-backed concepts—they steer clear of unapproachable appeal and instead veer towards community and acceptance. Kona Kona in suburban Mumbai, founded by actor Mona Singh and consulting chef Jasleen Marwah, is a bar-forward space which exudes comfort and attracts the notion of community. “I didn’t want fancy,” says Singh. “Just a place where people feel at home.” The menu blends Indian and popular global flavours in their truest form—shareability. Think childhood flavours in a modern bar setting. Both Singh and Marwah, shaped by peripatetic upbringings, have poured their collected food memories into every plate and corner.
Meanwhile, Shilpa Shetty’s Bastian Hospitality has evolved significantly since its inception, pushing boundaries in luxury dining—immersive, ever-relevant, and always a few steps ahead. “Bastian has always stood for more than just dining,” she says. “We wanted to meet today’s discerning, global diner with concepts that feel fresh, thoughtful, and exquisite,” she adds.
That same philosophy is applied in the brand’s new sibling, Blondie—a specialty café in Bandra. “Blondie was born out of a desire to create something more intimate, more everyday—a space that speaks to the culture of casual, community-driven dining,” she says. With a cool menu to boot, including ceremonial-grade matcha and beans sourced from 45 women farmers in Chikmagalur, Blondie brings resourceful and sustainable thought processes to trending tastes.
Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai-born food and beverage expert, consultant and writer.
Disclaimer: Views expressed are personal and do not reflect the official position or policy of FinancialExpress.com. Reproducing this content without permission is prohibited.
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