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From Kathiyawadi, badaga, to Bastar, explore these hyper-local cuisines of India

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Recently, I attended the Badaga cuisine pop-up at The Park, Bengaluru, and ever since, I have been drawn to hyperlocal cuisines. Each time I try a new one, I am stunned by the flavours. Hyperlocal cuisines have the potential to break the monotony of mainstream dishes and surprise diners with something unusual. Fusion can also help spotlight these flavours like the red sticky rice sushi served at Axone, a modern Naga restaurant. If you are looking to break the routine and try something different, here are a few hyperlocal cuisines you should add to your list.

Badaga from Nilgiris, Tamil Nadu

Badaga cuisine, native to the Nilgiri region of Tamil Nadu, a blend of culinary influences from the Portuguese, British, and South Karnataka. Millets like barnyard and ragi, green vegetables, potatoes and a large variety of beans are a major part of this cuisine.

“We use beans like giant white kidney, hyacinth, scarlet runner, zebra, and fava, along with plenty of dairy products,” explains Suresh Belliraj, the founder of Odae, a restaurant in Kotagiri, Nilgiris.

Unlike other South Indian cuisines, Badaga food is rather mild. It includes a variety of dishes that are earthy and have the essence of the hills. Some of these include badu uthukka (mutton curry), Baccanai mottai (egg paniyaram), sutta badu (fire roasted pork), avarai uthukka (beans curry) and hatchikkai (poped millet served with coconut milk).  A local highlight is pattai saraya, a liquor made from hill jamun bark.

Badaga cuisine at Odae is served on a pre-order basis. At Catherine falls road, Aravenu, Kotagiri, Nilgiris, Tamil Nadu. For more details: 9443021226

Koi uthukka from Badaga cuisine

Kathiyawadi from Saurastra, Gujarat

Kathiyawadi cuisine from Gujarat’s Saurashtra region is bold, spicy, and unlike the sweet stereotype of Gujarati food. Due to the dry climate, staples include millet breads like bajra and jowar, and chickpea flour-based dishes. “Millets have always been an essential part of our diet,” says Karnabhai Bavabhai Maldhari, founder of the 42-year-old Garden Fairyland restaurant in Rajkot.

Dishes from Kathiyawadi Cusinie

Highlights of Kathiyawadi cuisine include sev tameta nu shaak (spicy tomato and sev curry), dhokli nu shaak (chickpea flour cubes in gravy), bharela ringan (stuffed brinjal) and ringan nu bhartu (charred brinjal with spices).

“Kathiyawadi food is mostly gluten-free,” adds Maldhari. At his restaurant, spices and dairy products are grown and sourced in-house.

Garden Fairyland. At National highway 8B, Marketing yard, Rajkot, Gujarat. For more details call, 9099070070

Bastar from Southern Chhattisgarh

Bastar cuisine, from southern Chhattisgarh, reflects the region’s tribal roots and deep connection to the forest. Staples like mahua flowers, bamboo shoots, wild mushrooms, and sal leaves are key, while British influence introduced wheat, spices, and tea.

Bordering Odisha, Andhra Pradesh, and Maharashtra has also shaped the cuisine with lentils and regional techniques.

According to Mohit Chandra Bhanjdeo , founder of Bastar Heritage Cafe in Jagdalpur, “There is not much awareness about this cuisine in India.”

Minimalist cooking and organic, forest-sourced ingredients define this cuisine. The cafe serves a traditional Bastar thali featuring unique dishes like aamat, chapra chutney (red ant chutney), pudga (meat cooked in leaf bowls), gar mati bhela (mud-roasted eggs), and aarsa (rice and jaggery dessert).

“There is an interesting palm-based liquor called Salfi, as well as wine made from dried Mahuwa flowers, both traditionally crafted here” Mohit adds.

Bastar Heritage Cafe. At Art Gallery, near Dalpat Sagar Road, Motitalab para, Jagdalpur, Chhattisgarh. For more details, call 8269302080

A bastar thali

Ravuthar from South India

Ravuthar cuisine is influenced by various cultures, borrowing traditional cooking styles from Persia, Turkey, Tamil Nadu, and Kerala.

Dishes like thikkadi, rice flour balls cooked in mutton curry resemble Kerala’s pedi, while jalar dosai, inspired by Malaysia, and dum Adai, similar to Middle Eastern basboosa, are also part of this rich culinary tradition.

“Staple ingredients of this cuisine are rice and coconut” says Hazeena Seyad, author of Ravuthar Recipes, who began documenting these recipes when she realised there was a lack of resources. Inspired by her grandmother, her book took her almost 3 years to complete.

Mutta Roast from Ravuthar cuisine

One such dish is the Biryani vaada made from leftover biryani, where water is added and left overnight. The next day, more spices are incorporated, and the mixture is pounded, shaped into vadas, and fried to make a snack.

You can try authentic Ravuthar dishes in the book, Ravuthar Recipes by Hazeena Seyad



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How to Build a Grassroots Food Movement in India

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As chef of the iconic Bombay Canteen, Thomas Zacharias helped ignite fresh interest in local ingredients and lost food traditions. Now, through his fast-growing Local Food Club, he’s building something far more ambitious.

Thomas Zacharias, better known in India as Chef Zac, has cooked in some of the world’s top kitchens. After an educative but bruising stint in the upper echelons of New York fine dining, he returned to India to open the iconic Bombay Canteen, where he helped spark a movement in the country around local ingredients and forgotten food traditions. But he found his true calling as a storyteller, first through his popular “Chef on the Road” video series, then through his platform The Locavore, which he founded in 2021 after leaving the restaurant world to highlight sustainable food practices (he also put together our first League of Travelers journey to India). With his latest endeavor Local Food Club, Chef Zac is bringing these conversations off the page and into communities across the country. 

Chef Thomas Zacharias at Dimapur Supermarket. Courtesy of The Locavore.

Charly Wilder: Did you always know you wanted to be a chef?

Chef Zac: I grew up in Kerala, and I spent a lot of time in my grandmother’s kitchen. Both my parents worked full-time, so afternoons, weekends and summer holidays were spent with her. She was a very experimental cook. In retrospect, she cooked locally and seasonally—just as a way of life.

Back in the ’90s in India, there was no concept of celebrity chefs. I didn’t even know being a chef was a real profession until I was about 15 or 16. Once I knew, I was sure. I studied hotel management in India—because back then, we didn’t have culinary schools—and then I went to the Culinary Institute of America in New York.

After graduating, I applied to a few of the top restaurants I admired. One of them was Le Bernardin. I’d read On the Line, Eric Ripert’s book about how the kitchen worked, and I was obsessed. But when I got there, it was awful. I was severely bullied by a senior cook.

Charly Wilder: Have you watched The Bear?

Chef Zac: It was exactly like The Bear. That first season? That’s literally what I went through—every day. 

Hands-on cooking in the village of Canacona on our League of Travelers journey to Goa, led and designed by Chef Zac. Photo by Jeff Fierberg for Roads & Kingdoms.

Charly Wilder: Insane that shit goes on still.

Chef Zac: I think it’s less now. This was more than 15 years ago, and I’ve seen people being fired for things like that in recent years. But back then it was bad. And because I was on a student visa, I was too scared to speak up. I didn’t know what would happen to my immigration status. So I just waited out my visa and left.That experience made it clear: if I ever had my own kitchen, it would be the opposite of that.

Charly Wilder: So you moved back to India?

Chef Zac: Yeah. I started working at Olive in Mumbai, a modern Mediterranean restaurant, and after a few years, I took a sabbatical to travel through Europe. But then I realized: I had spent all my savings exploring foreign cuisines, and I’d done nothing to explore my own. So at that point I decided to make an 180 degree shift and started focusing on Indian food. 

Serendipitously this was the exact time that the people behind Bombay Canteen were looking for a chef. So I joined in 2014, but I still knew very little about Indian cuisine. I realized that I couldn’t really learn from any texts or cookbooks because we didn’t have reliable ones in India. The only way for me to learn about regional cuisine was to travel. 

Chef Zac leading the Locavore Shuffle at a Local Food Club meeting in Delhi. Courtesy of The Locavore.

Charly Wilder: So this is how “Chef on the Road” started?

Chef Zac: Yes, I started documenting my travels through the prism of a curious, exploratory chef, very inspired by Bourdain. I did a food road trip across 18 regions in India. I found recipes, techniques, stories, and ingredients I’d never seen before—stuff that wasn’t in any cookbook, wasn’t being taught, wasn’t on restaurant menus. What I saw and experienced blew my mind.

Charly Wilder: Can you give an example?

Chef Zac: I remember going just 50 miles outside Mumbai and meeting native tribal communities who were still foraging and cooking with ingredients passed down for generations—plants and herbs that nobody in the city had even heard of. I like to ask people: how many of you know avocado? Everyone raises their hand. Then I say: how many of you know shevla? Nobody does. But shevla grows right here, just outside the city. That moment really stuck with me.

The long-term dream is a Local Food Club in every neighborhood in India.

Charly Wilder: And you translated this to the table at Bombay Canteen?

Chef Zac: Yes, that was the point where I found a stronger sense of purpose and we made it our mission to bring these regional foods and stories to the forefront. We were the only restaurant in the country doing that at the time. It got national attention. Awards. But I was still traveling, going to farms and villages, and I realized: we’re losing so much. So many traditions. So much biodiversity. And meanwhile, in the restaurant, I felt more and more disconnected from the impact I actually wanted to make. So after seven years, I decided to leave, and start The Locavore. I didn’t want to just be a chef—I wanted to build a platform that could champion the people doing the real work on the ground and connect them to the people who never get to hear their stories.

Charly Wilder: How do you describe The Locavore to people unfamiliar with it?

Chef Zac: In a nutshell, The Locavore is a platform that champions local food and sustainability across India through storytelling, through events and social impact projects, and through partnering with farmers and grassroots organizations. In a sense, it’s a lot of businesses in one, working across themes and geographies. 

Left: Chef Zac demonstrates a mixed millet salad. Photo by Pulkit Gandher. Right: potluck offerings at a Local Food Club meetup in Bhopal. Photo by Shrubra Jain.

Charly Wilder: The stories you tell are so deeply reported and locally focused….

Chef Zac: Yes, we’re only putting out 8-10 stories a month, but when we tell a story, for instance, of a producer, we talk about why we love them and then we break down their practices: what they’re doing with traditional knowledge, how they’re packaging their products, what’s in their products, how they compensate and treat their workforce. Are they organic? What are they doing with the community? And then we lead readers to products they can buy to close the loop. 

Charly Wilder: Let’s talk about the Local Food Club. What is it, and how did it come to be?

Chef Zac: From the beginning with The Locavore, we wanted to create more than just a storytelling platform or an impact consultancy. We realized there aren’t many spaces around food where people feel like they truly belong—especially those who care about sustainability, culture, community. We used to do one-off events around the country, and every time, people would say, “We love this. We found our people. We want to do more. But you’re going to leave now—and what happens here?” That kept happening.

So I thought: what if we didn’t have to be there in person? What if we created a decentralized model where we are the hub, but the actual events are hosted by the community? That’s how the Local Food Club started. We provide the programming and structure—monthly themes, newsletters, conversation prompts. But the events themselves are hosted by volunteers. Restaurants and cafés offer their spaces for free. And every first Sunday of the month, from 4 to 7 p.m., the potlucks happen all over the country.

In Palghar preparing mahua fruits for a sabzi. Courtesy of The Locavore.

Charly Wilder: How big is it now?

Chef Zac: We started in May in six cities. In August, we’ll be in 23 locations. We already have 3,000 members and 26 WhatsApp groups. It’s kind of wild. Even in big cities like Mumbai, where we have more than 500 members, we cap each potluck at 35 people to keep it intimate. So now Mumbai has five different neighborhood potlucks each month.

Charly Wilder: So what does a typical Food Club gathering look like?

Chef Zac: People arrive and while they’re waiting, we usually have something fun—like a whiteboard where they draw themselves as a food or ingredient. Then we do what we call the Locavore Shuffle—it’s basically speed dating with food questions. People sit opposite each other and rotate every five minutes, using prompts about food memory, anthropology, culture. It completely transforms the room—strangers become friends.

We follow that with a group activity around the theme of the month. Last month it was Monsoon Sharing Circle—people talked about monsoon memories, what the season means to them, the ingredients they grew up with, seasonal dishes in their families. And then we do a potluck sharing circle. You don’t have to bring a dish—you can bring a hyperlocal ingredient, a family utensil, or a food story. Everyone shares, and then we eat together.

A cooking workshop in a traditional Hindu village on Chorão Island, part of our League of Travelers journey designed and led by Chef Zac.. Photo by Jeff Fierberg for Roads & Kingdoms.

Charly Wilder: What do people actually cook and bring?

Chef Zac: We nudge people to think seasonally and locally. Like during monsoon season, we encourage people to cook with monsoon vegetables or use ingredients their grandparents used. Some folks are already cooking that way, others are learning from each other.

We’re not rigid, though. Someone brought chocolate chip cookies—but with flour from native wheat and chocolate sourced from a single-origin Indian cacao grower. It’s all about intention. Recently I was in Jaipur and corn was in season. There were a couple of corn dishes, some amazing fritters, and a dish called arbi ki kachri—which I’d never tasted before.

Fishing with the Ramponkars (and Chef Andy Ricker, right) in Goa, part of our League of Travelers journey designed and led by Chef Zac. Photo by Jeff Fierberg for Roads & Kingdoms.

Charly Wilder: Is the idea just to gather and eat, or do the clubs take on bigger projects?

Chef Zac: Right now the focus is on gathering—creating space, building trust, making it fun. But over time, each club can start taking on local projects. One might document traditional markets. Another might start a composting initiative. Another might revive a lost recipe tradition. Eventually we want Local Food Clubs in villages, too—not just cities. We’re already piloting this with grassroots organizations in rural areas. The long-term dream is a Local Food Club in every neighborhood in India. We don’t want to dictate what each club does. You might as well lean into what people are excited about—and then we help champion that.

Charly Wilder: What ingredient did you draw yourself as on the whiteboard?

Chef Zac: Jamun. It’s a monsoon berry—really purple, really local. It’s unique, it’s versatile. I like that it leaves a mark. It makes your tongue purple. I like to think I leave an impact.

For more information on how to visit India with Chef Zac and the League of Travelers, visit our trip page: The Other Side of Goa



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India’s Tribal Cuisines Setting Global Trends

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Photo Credit: Alchi Kitchen

Foraging is a prominent culinary trend in the global dining scene. While it’s incredible to experience hyper-local produce at award-winning restaurants worldwide, it’s vital to remember that foraging has been integral to indigenous cuisines in almost all tribal communities of India for centuries. From Meghalaya and Assam in the Northeast to the rugged landscape of Ladakh and the forests of Jharkhand, communities have thrived due to their deep connection to seasons, forests, and locally available resources. Similarly, culinary buzzwords like ‘sustainability’ and ‘zero-waste cooking’ have been inherent practices in these communities for generations.

Today, highly trained international chefs discuss plant-based foods, local and seasonal produce, and nose-to-tail cooking. However, these have been inherent aspects of traditional cooking even in India’s most remote parts. We spoke to four champions promoting their regional cuisine, documenting it, educating others, and conducting restaurant pop-ups, to highlight indigenous ingredients, special dishes, and cooking techniques passed down through generations.

Revival Of The Forgotten Flavors Of Jharkhand

Jharkhand is home to 32 tribal communities, each with its own distinct food culture. “I’ve been able to document eight of these so far, but that’s just scratching the surface,” says Dr. Manisha Oraon. Not a typical food entrepreneur, Dr. Oraon is a dentist working in rural health, but her true passion lies in preserving Jharkhand’s tribal cuisines, long overshadowed and undocumented. Over the past six years, she has been on a personal mission to document, revive, and innovate upon the indigenous culinary traditions of her homeland. Her work stems from a growing concern of “forgotten identity,” as the traditional foods of Jharkhand—many of which are deeply sustainable and foraged from the forests—are disappearing from everyday lives, surviving only during ceremonies or festivals.

“When I went to the only restaurant in Ranchi that offers tribal food—Ajam Emba—I noticed that it served only the most basic dishes. None of the nuanced, seasonal, or ceremonial preparations were represented,” she laments. Another problem she notes is that people often equate Jharkhand’s food with dhuska or litti chokha, dishes that actually have their roots in the neighbouring state of Bihar. “Our food has a distinct identity that deserves recognition,” she states.

Photo credit: The Open Field

At the heart of traditional Jharkhandi meals is ‘maar jhor’, a staple across tribes in which the broth of an indigenous fibrous, low-glycemic brown rice is used to cook foraged greens. “We never had much access to pulses, so maar jhor became an important source of nutrition,” she explains. Meals also include chutneys, often made from bamboo shoots fermented in stages depending on the season and known locally as sandhana, and mashed preparations like chokha made from roasted tubers. Jharkhand’s cuisine also incorporates edible flowers found in forests, like roselle, kudrum, sania, and hemp flowers that are used in chutneys or added into the maar jhor. The culinary calendar is also in sync with the agricultural and religious one: “We worship trees, and through them, we honour the land and the food it gives us.”

Photo Credit: The Open Field

Among the most underappreciated ingredients is mahua, a flower widely misunderstood as being used solely for making local liquor. “That stereotype of villages being alcoholic because of mahua is not only incorrect—it’s damaging,” she says. In reality, mahua has a wide range of uses. “Women eat three soaked mahua flowers in the morning to treat anaemia. We also dry them and use them as natural sweeteners or make them into candies and desserts,” explains Dr. Oraon. In one fascinating preparation, mahua flowers are slow-boiled for hours with roasted tamarind seeds and husk, forming a jaggery-like consistency used as a sweetmeat called mawa latha. “It’s what our people ate when there was nothing else. It was our dessert, a traditional treat,” she smiles. Mahua’s potential also extends to pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, with its seeds yielding oil used for burns and rashes, known locally as dori tel, akin to global shea butter.

Photo credit: Alchi Kitchen

Talking about global food trends, Dr. Oraon states that in many ways, Jharkhand’s food system has always been ahead of the curve. It champions nose-to-tail eating, fermentation, slow cooking, and zero-waste practices. It thrives on plant-based biodiversity, incorporates ancient grains like millets, and promotes climate-resilient crops. “We’ve been eating local, foraging, and preserving through sun-drying for generations—what the world is only now calling sustainable,” she says. With innovations like solar dehydrators, her farmer collective is now exploring ways to preserve ingredients more effectively while maintaining nutritional integrity. “We’re trying to combine traditional knowledge with modern techniques to protect what we have,” she says nonchalantly.

Meghalaya’s Tribal Dishes Find Space On Gourmet Tables

As the founder of Tribal Gourmet, A Northeast Indian Pop Up Kitchen, Tanisha Phanbuh’s mission is clear: not just to introduce people to the food of Meghalaya, but to change the way we think about indigenous cuisines from Northeast India. Based in Delhi but rooted in her Khasi heritage, she champions the region’s rich culinary diversity and deep traditions through pop-up kitchens and storytelling that highlight the nuances often overlooked in broader narratives.

Photo Credit: Tanisha Phanbuh, Founder of Tribal Gourmet

“People tend to group all Northeast cuisines into one box,” she says, “but each state—and within them, each tribe—has distinct food traditions shaped by geography, history, and community.” In Meghalaya alone, the food of the Khasi, Jaintia, and Garo tribes varies not only in flavour but also in preparation. Khasi cuisine, for instance, is simple and straightforward, making it a great introduction for outsiders and first-time tasters, while Garo food reflects the state’s tropical climate, often using bolder, earthier ingredients.

A traditional meal in Meghalaya is based on steamed rice, accompanied by a variety of meat, greens, chutneys, and seasonal vegetables. “There’s an innate rhythm to how we eat,” Tanisha explains. “Summer meals are lighter—think stews with chicken or fish—while winters bring heartier fare, with pork, beef, and warming fermented bean pastes.” Interestingly, there’s a cultural preference to include bitter vegetables like bitter gourd or bitter eggplant at lunch, but not at dinner; such subtle dining rules have been passed down through generations.

Photo Credit: The Open Field

What sets Meghalaya’s cuisine apart, especially for global audiences, is its deep reliance on hyperlocal and foraged ingredients. “Even in Delhi, I can access 40–50 unique ingredients each week from Northeast markets,” Tanisha says. Some standout elements include michinga, wild Sichuan pepper leaves prized for their heady aroma; tree tomatoes, tangier and meatier than conventional varieties; and sawtooth coriander, a sharper cousin of cilantro. Add to this an abundance of wild mushrooms, seasonal greens, and backyard herbs sourced from villages and forests, each telling a story of the land and the people who tend it.These traditional ingredients and methods are also remarkably in line with global food trends. “Fermentation, for example, is now seen as revolutionary,” she notes. “But we’ve been fermenting bamboo shoots, fish, and soybeans for generations.” Meghalaya’s respect for whole-animal cooking also mirrors the growing ‘nose-to-tail’ philosophy. Dishes like doh khlieh (pig brain salad) and ja doh (a pig’s blood in a risotto-like preparation) reflect not only ingenuity but a cultural reverence for resourcefulness and zero-waste cooking.

“In many ways, our food has been global before the world caught on,” Tanisha says with a smile. “I just wish more people knew about us, and that’s my lifelong goal.”

Ladakhi Cuisine Incorporates Warmth And Energy For The Harsh Climate

High in the trans-Himalayan region of Ladakh, the culinary tradition is deeply shaped by its geography, Buddhist culture, and the harsh yet beautiful climate of the mountains. Ladakhi cuisine is simple yet soul-nourishing with a strong focus on seasonality and sustainability. “Fermentation, drying, and sun-curing aren’t recent health fads here,” says Nilza Wangmo, founder of Alchi Kitchen, an all-women-run restaurant in Alchi. “They are time-honoured practices that our grandmothers taught us, methods that not only preserve food but also enhance its nutritional value, especially in a cold desert like Ladakh.”At its heart, Ladakhi food is an expression of resilience and harmony. Barley, the region’s staple grain, is transformed into dishes like phey or tsampa, while root vegetables, lentils, and wild greens are used in dishes that are as comforting as they are delicious. Even simple preparations like skyur, a fermented dough, or chhutagi, a hand-rolled pasta in a vegetable broth, reveal a delicate balance of texture and flavour. A typical Ladakhi meal is warm and filling, made with what is locally grown, especially essential in a place where winters are long and unforgiving. Flatbreads made from barley or wheat, broths such as thukpa, mokthuk, and chhanthuk, and generous helpings of mok mok (dumplings) make up daily meals. “Lunch might be a simple one-pot dish, but dinner is when the family gathers, especially in winter,” Nilza explains. Butter tea, locally known as gur gur cha, is consumed throughout the day offering both warmth and energy.

Photo Credit: The Open Field

Local and foraged ingredients offer a rare insight into Ladakh’s biodiversity. Bright seabuckthorn berries (tsestalulu) bursting with Vitamin C, detoxifying nettles (zatsot), and the tangy native rhubarb (lachu) are not only delicious but also medicinal. Flavour enhancers like skotse (wild chives) and kornyot (wild cumin) deepen the sensory richness of Ladakhi food. These are ingredients that support immunity and well-being, principles now echoed in global wellness trends.

At Alchi Kitchen, the goal is clear: preserve the essence of Ladakhi cuisine while engaging in the global culinary conversation. “We’re deeply rooted in our traditions, but those traditions are now more relevant than ever,” says Nilza. “What the world is asking for—sustainability, plant-based diets, fermented foods, mindful eating—we’ve been doing for generations.” Their farm-to-table philosophy helps minimise food miles and maximise flavour by sourcing from local farms and foraging from the wild. But what sets Alchi Kitchen apart is its commitment to culinary storytelling. Every dish tells a story, that of a grandmother’s recipe, a family memory, or a harvest tradition. “In a fast-paced world, we offer a slow, immersive culinary experience that connects diners to the land, the people, and the past, mirroring the global trend toward experiential, mindful dining,” says Nilza.

The Simplicity, Sustainability, And Soul Of Assamese Home Food

For those who believe food tells the story of a place, Assamese cuisine offers a rich, deeply rooted narrative of heritage, ecology, and restraint. From foraged greens in forested villages to delicate fermentation techniques passed down through generations, Assamese food is a fine example of culinary subtlety and balance.

“As a food enthusiast with a passion for discovering indigenous cuisines, I find great joy in exploring the subtle nuances that define each culinary tradition. When it comes to my own Assamese cuisine, its uniqueness lies in the use of fresh, homegrown vegetables, a restrained yet thoughtful use of spices, and the emphasis on slow cooking techniques. These elements come together to create dishes that are not only deeply flavorful but also rooted in tradition and sustainability, making Assamese cuisine a true gem in the global gastronomic landscape,” says Parnashree Devi, a travel blogger who hails from Assam; she has been sharing the nuances of Assamese cuisine on various platforms.

Photo Credit: Tribal Gourmet

Fresh, homegrown vegetables, seasonal herbs, and a nuanced use of spices are the cornerstones of this cuisine. Dishes are slow-cooked and designed to nourish. A traditional Assamese thali might feature the staple yellow daal, steamed rice, a mix of sautéed leafy greens (known locally as xaak), and simple but soulful sides like aloo pitika (mashed potatoes) or begun bhaja (fried eggplant). A more elaborate spread might include dishes like mati dail khar (a type of alkaline lentils), poita bhat (fermented rice), or kosuthuri kon bilahir logot, a rustic preparation of tender colocasia leaves with tangy cherry tomatoes. There’s also a wide variety of non-vegetarian fare such as lai xaak gahori (pork with mustard greens), til diya murgi (chicken with black sesame), and haah kumura (duck with ash gourd).

What makes Assamese cuisine so compelling on a global scale is its deep synergy with current culinary movements. “Farm-to-table cuisine is championed unequivocally as it’s a traditional way of life with the use of fresh herbs, wild greens, and locally sourced produce in daily cooking. Gut-friendly staples like fermented mustard seeds and poita bhat have been nourishing our people for centuries,” explains Parnashree. With its slow cooking methods, clean flavours, nutrient-dense dishes, and rich connection to land and heritage, Assamese cuisine is very much at par with global standards.

Related: Arunachal Pradesh Vs Assam — Which Northeast Indian Escape Is Right For You?





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The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.



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Shibani Bawa

New Delhi-based travel and food writer, Shibani Bawa has been penning articles on luxury lifestyle for ..Read More





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Indigenous Indian Ingredients: Global Culinary Renaissance

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In recent years, the world has witnessed a renaissance of sorts in the culinary landscape — one that sees indigenous Indian ingredients and age-old cooking techniques stepping into the spotlight on global platforms. From Michelin-starred restaurants in London to boutique kitchens in Tokyo and New York, chefs are rediscovering the depth, complexity, and sustainability embedded in India’s food heritage. It’s not just about the curry any more — it’s about charcoal-grilled mustard fish from Bengal, Himalayan foraged greens, wood-fire-roasted meats from the Northeast, and millets made cool again.

From the forests of the Northeast to the spice fields of Kerala, India’s culinary landscape is rich with heritage, biodiversity, and flavours. And now, this once-local treasure trove is being celebrated on a global stage. Chefs, mixologists, and restaurateurs worldwide are not only using indigenous Indian ingredients but also reviving traditional cooking methods, giving them a place of prestige on international platforms. A deep dive…..

Indigenous Indian Ingredients on the Global Plate

India’s food culture is deeply rooted in local produce — often wild, seasonal, and medicinal. Today, the culinary world is embracing these ingredients for their nutritional value, flavour complexity, and cultural richness. Here are some of the most popular indigenous ingredients making waves globally:

Millets, long considered “poor man’s grain”, are enjoying a global resurgence. The UN declared 2023 as the International Year of Millets, and chefs like Rohit Ghai (of London’s Kutir and Manthan fame) are featuring dishes like millet khichdi with truffle oil and foxtail millet upma on refined tasting menus.

Jackfruit, often dubbed as a meat alternative, has become a darling of the plant-based movement. While traditionally cooked as kathal ki biryani or dry sabzi in Indian households, jackfruit tacos and BBQ-style pulled jackfruit are now found in global chains like Wagamama and even Whole Foods pre-packaged meals.

Indigenous Chillies: From bhoot jholokia to guntur, a variety of Indian chillies have made a mark on global menus. A promising example would be the use of Naga chillies at  Tabla by Chef Floyd Cardoz and in chutneys at Dhamaka, New York.

Mahua: Another widely used indigenous staple, the mahua flower as well as mahua extract have found their way into menus such as in Ekaa, Mumbai, which uses it to flavour pork belly and desserts.

From Kalari to Churpi, and Kalimpong, India boasts of native varieties of cheeses and chefs have now started popularising them in gourmet dishes. Indian cheesemakers such as Kumaoni Blessings have been popularised by celebrated chefs including Gary Mehigan of MasterChef Australia fame. 

Kokum, a souring agent from the Konkan belt, is increasingly being used in wellness drinks and cocktail infusions across upscale bars from Melbourne to Miami. The ingredient’s antioxidant properties and tangy punch have caught the attention of beverage curators like Alex Kratena in Europe, who incorporated kokum shrub into one of his tropical-inspired menus.

A Return to Roots: Traditional Cooking Techniques

Alongside the rise of ingredients is the rebirth of long-forgotten traditional cooking techniques. Indian cooking, often described as complex and laborious, is being re-examined with reverence by chefs and food historians all over the world. The return to slow-cooking, wood-fire, fermentation, and earthenware cooking reflects a global yearning for authenticity.

The Dum Pukht style — slow cooking in a sealed pot — has made its way into fine-dining kitchens from Dubai to Paris. At Trèsind Studio in Dubai (Michelin-starred), Chef Himanshu Saini reinterprets classic Indian dishes using traditional methods like dum to extract deep, soulful flavours. His version of lamb nihari cooked over 12 hours is a masterclass in patience and technique.

The bhuna, dhungar (coal smoking), and tandoori techniques are being reappropriated beyond Indian restaurants. Asma Khan, owner of London’s Darjeeling Express, often demonstrates the traditional use of smoking a dish with a coal and ghee to infuse richness — a method being embraced by food stylists and chefs worldwide for its dramatic flair and depth of aroma.

India’s nuanced approach to fermentation — from idli-dosa batter to rice kanji and achaar — is finally being understood as a sophisticated form of food science. Chefs like David Zilber (former head of fermentation at NOMA, Copenhagen) have referenced Indian pickling and fermentation techniques in his work, acknowledging their precision and diversity.

In New York, Semma, helmed by Chef Vishwesh Bhatt and backed by the team behind Michelin-starred Dhamaka, serves regional Indian fare from Tamil Nadu — all cooked in traditional clay pots. Their goat curry, simmered in earthenware, delivers an earthy depth that steel just can’t match.

Meanwhile, banana-leaf grilling — a staple in Kerala, Tamil Nadu and even Bengal (don’t forget the bhetki paturi!) — is now a theatrical and eco-friendly cooking style found in Thai-Indian fusion eateries in Sydney and LA, as well as London.

Restaurants harnessing Indian heritage:

Semma, New York City
Semma in NYC has redefined Indian cuisine in America by boldly spotlighting hyper-regional, home-style dishes from South India that are rarely seen on Western menus. Led by Chef Vijay Kumar and backed by the Unapologetic Foods group, the restaurant dives deep into the culinary traditions of Tamil Nadu, offering rustic, ancestral recipes like Nathai Pirattal (snail curry) and Venison Sukka. Its unapologetic celebration of authenticity — without diluting spice or storytelling — has earned Semma a Michelin star and positioned it as a cultural force changing the narrative of Indian food in the US.

Snail Curry at Semma, NYC

TresInd, Dubai

TresInd has pioneered a progressive Indian fine-dining movement in Dubai, fusing avant-garde techniques with deeply rooted Indian flavours. Helmed by Chef Himanshu Saini, the restaurant brings molecular gastronomy and modern plating into play while staying true to traditional ingredients and stories. Dishes like the deconstructed pani puri or khichdi of India pay homage to regional classics in a new-age format, making TresInd a trailblazer in elevating Indian food to haute cuisine status in the Middle East.

A5 Wagyu striploin prepared like the classic Pathar Kebab at TresInd, Dubai

Benares, London
Opened by acclaimed chef Atul Kochhar, Benares was one of the first Indian restaurants in the UK to receive a Michelin star, signaling a shift in how Indian cuisine was perceived in the UK. Nestled in the upscale Mayfair district, Benares champions a refined interpretation of regional Indian flavours, marrying them with British ingredients in elegant, globally-influenced dishes. Through its thoughtful menus and stylish presentation, Benares has been instrumental in placing Indian food firmly on the fine-dining map of London, moving it beyond curry-house clichés to culinary prestige.

Murg Jhol Momo served with Foie Gras at Benares, London

Avatara, Dubai
Avatara holds the distinction of being the first and only fully vegetarian Indian fine-dining restaurant in Dubai to receive a Michelin star. Created by the team behind TresInd, it reimagines India’s spiritual and culinary vegetarian roots through a multi-course tasting menu that is both seasonal and deeply philosophical. Chef Rahul Rana leads a kitchen that honors forgotten grains, temple foods, and Ayurveda-inspired techniques, presenting a narrative that shifts the focus from indulgence to introspection while showcasing the diversity of India’s plant-based traditions.

Klaayah, a melange of Bengali green pea luchi with shisho leaves, creamy green pea chokha and mustard-carrot jhol with a touch of green caviar at Avatara, Dubai

Enter Via Laundry is one of Melbourne’s most exciting and intimate dining experiences, founded by Chef Helly Raichura. What began as a private supper club hosted in her home has evolved into a refined restaurant celebrating regional Indian flavours through a carefully curated degustation menu. Located in Fitzroy North, the space retains its personal, almost clandestine charm — true to its name, guests literally enter through the laundry. The multi-course meals take diners on a journey across India’s diverse culinary landscape, featuring lesser-known ingredients and techniques rarely seen in mainstream Indian cuisine. With only a handful of seats available per night, Enter Via Laundry offers not just a meal, but a cultural narrative plated with precision and heart.

Kerala-style appetisers at Enter Via Laundry, Melbourne

Chourangi in London brings the bold, aromatic flavours of Calcutta to the heart of Marylebone, offering a refined and soulful take on Eastern India’s rich and diverse culinary heritage. Co-founded by celebrated restaurateur Anjan Chatterjee, the restaurant captures the spirit of Calcutta — a city known for its layered cultural influences — through a menu that draws inspiration from British, Mughlai, Bengali, and even Chinese cuisines. Dishes are crafted with over 300 spices and ingredients, showcasing everything from tangy street-style chaats and delicate seafood to robust slow-cooked meats and fragrant rice preparations. Set in a warm, stylish space with colonial-era touches, Chourangi blends nostalgia with modern finesse, introducing London diners to a lesser-explored side of Indian cuisine.

A Bengali classic, the Daab Chingri at Chourangi, London

A Culinary Identity Reclaimed

The rise of indigenous Indian ingredients and traditional cooking techniques on global platforms is more than a food trend — it’s a cultural reclaiming. For years, Indian food abroad was simplified, Anglicised, or relegated to takeaways. Today, it’s being elevated with nuance and integrity.
Chefs like Garima Arora, Prateek Sadhu, Asma Khan, Sujan Sarkar, and Chintan Pandya are unapologetically showcasing India’s diversity — not just through ‘classic dishes’ but through ancient methods, foraged ingredients, and tribal wisdom. It’s a movement rooted in pride. A movement that understands that the future of food may well lie in the past.

Chef Prateek Sadhu (left) of Naar and Chef Manish Mehrotra, known as the man behind Indian Accent and Comorin, both have been the champions of Indian ingredients as well as techniques. While Mehrotra put Indian dishes on the world map, Sadhu, on the other hand, is on a quest for bringing Himalayan biodiversity to the plate, Sadhu sources rare ingredients like sea buckthorn, black garlic from Ladakh, and local grains. His work emphasises sustainability and terroir.

Vikas Khanna has long been a torchbearer of India’s culinary arts, and through his international ventures, he’s brought temple cuisine, ancient grains, and tribal recipes into Michelin arenas with Junoon in New York and now the recently opened Bungalow in New York as well.

Garima Arora, India’s first female Michelin-starred chef, continues to bring techniques like open fire-roasting and fermentation to the fore at Gaa in Bangkok.

Chintan Pandya, whose restaurants Dhamaka, Adda, and Rowdy Rooster in New York have received immense acclaim, is unafraid to serve bold, unapologetically spicy Indian food — including items like goat kidney and liver fry, or Champaran mutton cooked in sealed clay pots.

Asma Khan is making Calcutta and her culinary roots from Awadh shine with her celebrity and even royalty-acclaimed spot Darjeeling Express in London. Her all-women kitchen is popular for dishes like the Calcutta-style dum biryani that masters the art of dum and slow cooking.

Pictures: Instagram and iStock





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