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Flying solo around the world

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Among a recent collection of inspiring stories of women travelling alone, published by Lonely Planet, is the story of Cromwell-based American psychologist Meri Murphy’s single retirement journey.

I travelled solo at age 29, and again at age 65. At age 29, I explored Europe for 10 months until my money ran out.

I’d been terrified of so many unknowns back in 1974, but the experience confirmed my love of travel and my commitment to seeing the whole world. Life’s realities intervened with 40 responsible years as a clinical psychologist, 21 dedicated years as a parent and 10 years as a wife.

Knowing finances and time were the keys to my travel freedom, day one of retirement became my departure date. Seven extraordinary, self-indulgent years as a retired nomad ensued, culminating in a miracle.

On my way

With my departure date in mind, I organised my financial planning accordingly. Being single-minded was an asset, and everything I did to support my goal was a pleasure. This included changing jobs and moving so I could afford to buy a house. Needing to be fit for travel motivated me to be active.

Planning was such pleasure, much aided by the internet. I vividly recall entertaining myself with months of luggage research. As departure date drew closer, I sold my house. My fantasy was that I’d travel forever, or at least as long as I wanted.

I did it!

Five days after my earliest possible retirement date, I was on a plane to Istanbul, initiating my wise choice of always travelling with one-way tickets.

Back at age 29, there was one significant downside to solo travel: the sexual harassment.

At age 65: this was not an issue! Being grandma-age, instead of sexual responses I evoked protectiveness and respect. I could only conclude that everywhere, people love their grandmas.

I stayed in hostels for their many advantages. Besides economy and a place to cook, you meet other travellers. Initially I stayed in dorms, but later I opted to book private rooms in hostels when available.

I organised my planning by continent: the Middle East first to satisfy my burning curiosity; Africa second, because I’d need to be fit; and third, Southeast Asia to make my personal amends for the Vietnam War.

Let me allay concerns: nothing bad happened to me. Anywhere. Ever.

I cut my retirement-travel teeth in the Middle East, the place I wanted to see the most but also the region that gave me the most trepidation about travelling as a single woman. Lessons learned from my earlier travels stood me in good stead (if it’s a choice between my own sense of comfort and being rude, choose rude).

I used public transport for several reasons, primarily because it’s inexpensive. Having no time deadlines, I was happy to exchange time for money. Also, I could count on it to get me where I was going, given my terrible sense of direction.

Eventually I arrived in a country in Asia where roads ran out, and the main artery was a river. For me with my city roots, river-as-artery was science fiction. Except, it wasn’t.

I had landed in Bangkok, the easiest and cheapest place to enter the region. Knowing I’d be back, after checking out the area for a few days, I pointed myself toward my real destination: Laos.

By this time, in my third year of retirement travel, many lessons had been learned. I must have absorbed into my muscle memory the reality that as long as I used my common sense and good judgement, things always worked out. My level of chill was astounding, especially to myself, given the many unknowns.

Exiting Thailand overland via Chiang Rai, I boarded a minibus to the Laos border where the road soon ran out! Ahead of me there was only the Mekong River, and travelling overland became travelling overwater.

Not knowing what lay ahead, I hadn’t brought food for my upcoming two-day journey. I was therefore relieved to discover a small food shop just across the border. Yes, things worked out.

I recall blindly following a miscellaneous group of travellers to the river, where we walked down a steep ramp to the dock. We all managed to fit in the waiting flat-bottomed boat. These two days on the Mekong would deliver me to my initial Laotian destination, Luang Prabang.

This city is known for being one of the most beautiful in Southeast Asia, and its famous Night Market beckoned.

I spent my two days on the Mekong focused on attitude adjustment, restraining my impatience and absorbing myself in the scenery. I enviously watched speedboats whizzing by and briefly wished I had paid for this faster transport. However, when I was told that they were noisy and that their drivers had a reputation for accidents, slow became perfect.

Our stopover was in Pak Beng, a village with one unpaved main street, quite different from the other, busier towns I’d seen so far in Thailand.

It was so interesting to see people going about their daily lives and I vowed to visit more communities away from the tourist routes. I wanted to know what it was like to live somewhere like Pak Beng, so different from my home.

Luang Prabang more than lived up to its reputation as beautiful, and the Night Market was extraordinary. So many things to see and do, so much good food!

I got around the city on my favourite form of in-town transport: a bicycle. I always hired a bike if it were both possible and safe. Thus, it was on my hired bike that I finally set out on my primary mission: to make personal amends for the Vietnam War. For my first stop I visited the UXO Laos Information Centre.

At this small museum of UXO (unexploded ordnance, or bombs), my guide was American.

With our shared language, I could read his grief.

He described the damage, both past and present, inflicted by bombs dropped during the Vietnam War (known in Laos as the Secret War).

Bombs remain, still causing harm especially to children. I donated money to the sponsoring organisation that is clearing away the bombs, treating the people still being injured, and providing education to ensure that the children know to stay away.

I needed an antidote to my gloom. So the next morning I arose to see an ongoing 5.30am ritual: women lining the streets, offering bowls of sticky rice and other foods to a parade of monks.

Perusal of my guidebook led me on to another river, the Nam Ou. This time it was for a 10-hour boat journey to the idyllic northern Laos town of Nong Khiaw. The scenery was stunning — I’d never seen anything like the peaked mountains jutting vertically out of the water. The town spanned both sides of the river. Tourism was concentrated on one side, and this became my base. There were tours on offer, and viewpoints to climb, and kayaking, and fabulous restaurants and … the options were endless. For the first time, I also met lots of other senior travellers, mostly couples, and it was a blast swapping stories and recommendations. We’d all go off on our daily explorations, then meet at our favourite Indian restaurant for dinner and share stories from our day. Such camaraderie was a welcome novelty.

Laos would not have been on my radar had it not been for the Secret War. Hence I was floored when it turned out to be so special. Not only was the scenery fabulous and varied, but it was also packed with surprises, including elephants! As an American traveller, I found it inexpensive and safe; and the people I met were friendly and helpful.

I thought to myself, “how did I get so lucky?”

The final destination and the final miracle

There were three and a-half years between Laos and my final travel miracle. These years included foreign and domestic travel, as well as surgeries with successful outcomes. Throughout my retirement I also took on occasional psychology contracts that placed me in novel locations (for example, South Dakota) and helped replenish my coffers.

Concluding a trip to explore my Jewish roots, I found myself in Riga, Latvia, in June 2017. Realising I was alive only because my Russian Jewish grandparents had emigrated to the United States back in 1910 contributed to the emotional impact of the trip.

Knowing I’d want to take advantage of my location, I’d researched must-see Eastern European destinations and discovered Tallinn, Estonia. I was all in, and a reservation for the four-and-a-half-hour bus trip from Riga to Tallinn assigned me seat six.

I was the last to board the bus. Someone was already in seat five. “Hello,” I said, hoping he was a native English speaker, which would make for a more relaxing journey.

It took only his “hello” to inform me that English was his mother tongue, but I incorrectly guessed his nationality as Australian. He was from New Zealand/Aotearoa.

Given how much I love meeting strangers, I proceeded to have one of my six-minute relationships, so named because that’s about how long you talk to someone on a skilift. Knowing you’ll never see them again, you can say whatever outrageous or true thing you want.

I learned a lot about this Kiwi: he was 72 (same as me), had flown his own plane for 40 years, took trips to Europe annually and had been a solo traveller since being widowed three years earlier. Like me, he was a cyclist. Unlike me, he preferred having a partner.

And this is how my being a nomadic solo traveller ended, on this bus to Tallinn.

Doug and I hooked up (as the youngsters say) in Tallinn, and the rest …

That this chance meeting evolved into a permanent relationship is the miracle. Why? Because I had been very happily single for 22 years. I had divorced at 40, and my last significant relationship ended at 50.

I truly believed that all relationships eventually became burdens.

So how did this one gain traction and stick?

Seven years later, now happily living in New Zealand, I can only say the miracle continues.

Preparation for retirement freedom

1.  Plan your finances
Knowing I’d need as much money as possible, the moment my daughter left home I sought the highest paying job I could find anywhere. I had a location list of must-haves (reasonable housing costs was number one) and negotiables (for example, a pretty city). I saved every possible penny while still having fun during my 10 years spent in Spokane, Washington.

2.  Keep your body as fit as possible
Getting to the gym and staying active was made easier knowing that this was my insurance policy for retirement. I was investing in feeding my passion to see and move around in the whole world.

3.  Make the digital world your friend
In 2010 at age 65 I was very intimidated by technology. My digitally savvy daughter set up my “Retired Nomad” blog. The many youngsters I met in dorms were happy to tutor me on Facebook and other platforms. I now thankfully have a record of my travels.

4.  Practise being alone
I started at 22, believing I wouldn’t marry, yet knowing there were a lot of things I wanted to do. My first practice solo-travel session was alone in a restaurant booth in West Hartford, Conneticut, ordering a hot fudge sundae.

The book

Women Travel Solo by Lonely Planet, $39.99 RRP.

 



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Thrill of the night train: from Vienna to Rome on the next-gen moonlight express | Rail travel

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Toasted ham baguettes in hand, we cheered as the new-generation Nightjet drew into Vienna Hauptbahnhof. It was a little before 7pm, and as the carriages hummed past I felt a rush of joy, like celebrity trainspotter Francis Bourgeois, but without the GoPro on my forehead. For more than three years I’ve been documenting the renaissance of sleeper trains, and I’d wondered if I might one day tire of them. But the thrill seems only to intensify each time I embark on another nocturnal adventure, this time with my two daughters – aged eight and five – who were already arguing over the top berth. The first four carriages were designated for travellers to the Italian port city of La Spezia, the other seven carrying on to Roma Tiburtina, where we would alight at 10am. Once in Rome we had 24 hours to eat classic carbonara, dark chocolate gelato, and bike around the Villa Borghese before taking a train to Florence.

Austrian Federal Railways (ÖBB) has played the lead role in resuscitating Europe’s night trains. Towards the end of 2016, ÖBB launched its Nightjet network on 14 routes, using old rolling stock it bought from Deutsche Bahn. Then, to the delight of train nerds like me, it launched a brand-new fleet at the end of 2023, and now operates 20 routes across Europe. We were now on board this high-spec service, which smelled of freshly unpacked furniture, the carpets soft underfoot, the lighting adjustable to disco hues of neon blue and punk pink.

We were booked into a couchette carriage, which mostly comprisesd mini cabins designed for solo travellers preferring privacy. Placing shoes and small bags in lockers, passengers can open a metal door with a keycard and crawl into their single berth, drawing the door closed around them, and not have to look at another human until morning. Last year I had trialled the mini cabins from Vienna to Hamburg alongside a tall friend who had likened the experience to sleeping inside a bread bin, though I hadn’t found it as claustrophobic as I’d feared, just a bit hard, chilly, and with a pillow as flat as a postage stamp. So I was curious to see how the carriage’s four-person private compartments, for families and groups, would differ.

New generation Nightjet train in Austria. Photograph: Christian Blumenstein

Normally happy to share with strangers, I’d booked a whole compartment for the three of us: more to protect other hapless travellers from my children, who were now swinging off the berths like members of Cirque du Soleil, their sweaty socks strewn under the seats. With raised sides, the upper berths were safe for the girls to sleep in without rolling out, and I set about tucking in their sheets while they settled down to finish their baguettes. There is no dining car on the Nightjet, so we’d bought food from the station, which was now moving backwards as the train sailed out of the Austrian capital in silence, smoothly curving south-west.

Two days earlier we’d arrived in Vienna by train from London, via Paris, and had checked into the Superbude Wien Prater, a curious hotel that appeared part art-installation, part hostel, with gen Zs slouched around worn leather sofas on MacBooks. With four-bed family cabins overlooking the Prater amusement park, it was a great location from which to explore the city, then finish the evening with a terrifying rollercoaster and a spicy Bitzinger wurst. A friend had described Vienna to me as a grand and beautiful “retirement village”, but, on the contrary, its green spaces, playgrounds and museums made it an easy stop for 48 hours with kids.

Hopping off the Nightjet from Paris, we’d gone straight to my favourite restaurant, Edelgreisslerei Opocensky – an unassuming nook serving homely dishes such as stuffed gnocchi, and goulash with dumplings – before whiling away an afternoon at the Children’s Museum at Schönbrunn Palace.

Dressing up like young Habsburgs, the girls had swanned around in wigs and musty gowns, laying tables for banquets and begging not to leave – a far cry from our usual museum experiences. Before boarding this train we’d had one last run around the interactive Technical Museum, where the human-sized hamster wheels, peg games and slides had so worn out the children that my five-year-old was asleep as the train plunged into the Semmering mountain pass.

It was still light as we swept around the Alps, my eight-year-old kneeling at the window and asking where local people shopped, so few and far between were signs of human life. Horses grazed in paddocks, cows nuzzled, and the occasional hamlet emerged from round a bend as though the chalets were shaken like dice and tossed into the slopes. In the blue-grey twilight we watched streams gleam like strips of metal, and spotted a single stag poised at the edge of a wood, before the train made a long stop at the Styrian city of Leoben, at which point we turned in.

Monisha Rajesh and her daughters disembark the night train. Photograph: Monisha Rajesh

Like the mini cabins, the compartment was still too cold, the pillow still too flat, but the berths were wider and the huge window a blessing compared with the single berths’ portholes – this one allowed for wistful gazing.

Shoving a rolled-up jumper under my head, I fell asleep, waking at 7am to rumpled clouds and a golden flare on the horizon. Most night trains terminate soon after passengers have woken up, but this one was perfect, allowing us to enjoy a leisurely breakfast of hot chocolate and jam rolls while watching the Tuscan dawn breaking into song, and Umbrian lakes and cornfields running parallel before we finally drew into Rome – on time.

When travelling alone I relish arriving with the entire day at my disposal, but with children it’s hard work waiting until 3pm to check in to accommodation, so I default to staying at a Hoxton hotel if one is available. Its Flexy Time policy allows guests to choose what time they check in and out for free, and by 11am we had checked in, showered and set off to toss coins in the Trevi fountain, finding thick whorls of eggy carbonara at nearby trattoria Maccheroni, and gelato at Don Nino. To avoid the crowds and heat, we waited until 6pm to hire an electric pedal car from Bici Pincio at the Villa Borghese and drove around the landscaped, leafy grounds, relishing the quietness of the evening ride. Excited about the next adventure in Florence, the girls had only one complaint: that they couldn’t ride there on the night train.

Monisha Rajesh is the author of Moonlight Express: Around the World by Night Train (Bloomsbury, £22), published on 28 August and available on pre-order at guardianbookshop.com

Omio provided travel in a four-person private compartment in a couchette carriage from Vienna to Rome (from £357). Accommodation was provided by Superbude Wien Prater in Vienna (doubles from €89 room-only); and The Hoxton in Rome (doubles from €189 room-only)



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79-year-old drives solo 4,357 km from Kannur to Howrah: Age is no barrier

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A former expatriate, he worked in Kolkata for two years before heading to the Gulf in 1977. After 33 years abroad, he returned home in 2010 and has since been indulging his lifelong love for travel.

Sreenivasan

Who says age comes with limits? Sreenivasan, a 79-year-old from Irinave in Kannur, certainly doesn’t think so. Far from slowing down, he’s still hitting the road solo — and his most recent adventure took him all the way to Howrah, clocking a whopping 4,357 kilometres over nine days, all by himself.

Living on the sixth floor of a flat in Thalap, Kannur, Sreenivasan is not one to lock himself in with the passing years. Age may change the numbers, but not his passion for travel. Whenever the mood strikes, he hops into his car and sets off — this time, turning the wheel eastwards to Howrah.

Despite the long journey, there’s not a trace of fatigue in his voice. Sreenivasan doesn’t let age define his pace. “When the desire to travel wins, age doesn’t matter,” he says with conviction.

A former expatriate, he worked in Kolkata for two years before heading to the Gulf in 1977. After 33 years abroad, he returned home in 2010 and has since been indulging his lifelong love for travel. Over the years, he has made countless trips, each one fuelling the next. His eyesight isn’t perfect, and he has a few health issues — but giving up solo travel is out of the question.

His journeys aren’t planned with maps or strict timetables. He simply follows his instinct — just as he did this time, choosing the route via Kottupuzha and Mysuru before heading straight to West Bengal. He drives from 8 am to 6 pm, avoiding night travel entirely. Pit stops are only for petrol and tolls.

For the Kannur–Howrah trip, he used 305 litres of petrol and paid ₹6,500 in tolls. He sticks to national highways and avoids detours. On some three-lane highways, rows of trucks can be a challenge, but Sreenivasan notes, “They’ll clear the way if you honk — it’s part of the driving culture.”

A vegetarian, he stops only at places that cater to his diet. His travels have taken him to Mangaluru, Mysuru, Srirangapatna, Hyderabad, Bhubaneswar and of course, Kolkata — which he has visited thrice already. Shorter getaways to places like Thrissur and Palakkad are also part of his routine.

Sreenivasan believes that for elderly travellers, good roads make all the difference. He lives with his wife Reetha and has two daughters — Sreeja and Sijitha.

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9 Best Lighthouse Airbnbs in the US

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Bed & bath: 1 bedroom, 2 baths
Top amenities: Mountain views, sustainable and thoughtful design, in-unit laundry, free parking on premises

For a tasteful, stylish, and refined stay out in Wanship, Utah, this property is a western take on a traditional lighthouse. The Towerhouse is a four-story estate at 8,000 feet of elevation, and the only property on this list that has no body of water in sight. That said, guests can expect sprawling views of both the mountains and Park City, Utah. While the space can fit up to four guests, its one queen bed is more suitable for two—perhaps for a remote, romantic getaway. With novel, eclectic touches, it’s architecturally unique, and only a 15-minute drive from the small towns nearby. Note: If booking during the winter, all guests must have four-wheel drive with snow tires as the roads are steep and often covered with snow.



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