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Hiking through Guatemala’s active volcanoes

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Antigua, a Unesco World Heritage city since 1979, has a dreamy old town with cobbled streets and old churches. Decommissioned American school buses re-purposed as public transport share the streets and roads with cars, Ubers, Indian-made autorickshaws and Bajaj, Hero and Royal Enfield motorcycles.

 

Surrounded by three volcanoes—the dormant Agua and Acatenango and the active Del Fuego—Antigua is the perfect starting point for anyone craving a volcano adventure or even a relaxed time in the spas, saunas (temazcal), bars and farm-to-table restaurants.

There is a surfeit of tour operators offering hikes up the Acatenango and Del Fuego so it is prudent to either talk to people who have just returned from the hike or do your research. Wicho & Charlie’s and OX Expeditions are among the most popular agencies but they are also the most expensive. Tropicana Hostel is at the lower end of the price spectrum. Almost all these agencies accept bookings online and list their prices in US dollars. The hike is popular and the good agencies have no availability at short notice. I went with Lava Trails after paying a $21 advance online and received an email confirmation with details of what to expect, what to carry and a pick-up time from the hotel.

Time in Guatemala, much like in India, is a fluid concept—more indicatory than concrete. I was ready for the 8am pick-up at 7.45am. By 8.15am I was wondering if I had been scammed, and by 8.30am I was seriously fretting. Five minutes later, a bus pulled up, my name was called, a list was ticked, and I was headed to the hiking base at La Soledad an hour away. Here, we ate a hot breakfast of eggs, beans, bread, fruits and coffee and were also asked to rent any gear that we needed. We chose from fleece and woollen pullovers, warm jackets, rain jackets, warm hats, gloves, headlamps, hiking poles, even backpacks. Then they gave us 4 litres of drinking water each and three boxes with the meals that we were to eat during our hike. Thereafter, three guides briefed us and then the bus dropped us off at the trailhead around 10.30am.

 

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A cobblestone street in Antigua, Guatemala, with a view of Acatenango and Fuego volcanoes. (istockphoto )

The hike is divided into four phases. The first part to the base camp stretches roughly 7km. The second phase, which is optional, is from the base camp to the active volcano Del Fuego, the third one is to the rim of the dormant Acatenango volcano and the final hike is the descent back to the trailhead to take a bus back to Antigua. The toughest part of the hike comes right at the start as the trail climbs steeply and the loose gravel makes the ascent difficult. Add to the fact that you are still acclimatising to the altitude of 2,300 metres, where the trail begins. We took breaks after every 20 minutes till we stopped for lunch 90 minutes into the hike. Another hour of hiking brought us the first sight of Agua, its conical snout peeping through the clouds. This is also the furthest a car can go on the Acatenango trail.

From here on, the trail is straightforward and the scenery changes. We left the tropical forests behind and entered the high-altitude alpine forest. Despite a constant climb, this last leg to the base camp is easy and before we knew it, we could see Del Fuego, which erupted with a bang just as we reached our cabin, spewing a large mushroom cloud of dark grey smoke, left the wooden cabin rattling and sent loose volcanic sand around our base camp rippling down. It had taken us about four-and-a-half hours, including breaks, to reach the base camp which was at an altitude of 3,629m.

Around 4.30pm, three from the group went on the add-on hike to Del Fuego while the rest, me included, took a 10-minute walk to the sunset point. As the skies turned an orange tinting to a deeper red on the horizon, up above us it was deep purple and dark blue with stars twinkling at us. We got back from the sunset point by 6.30pm and the guides cooked and served us hot dinner by 8pm. While we were chatting around a campfire, the adventurous three, tired but beaming, returned from Del Fuego closer to 9pm after having witnessed eruptions from a few hundred metres away, even as the mountain beneath their feet trembled. We ended the night under a moonlit, starry sky with hot chocolate, wine and marshmallows around the bonfire, listening to stories and watching Del Fuego erupt nearly every 40 minutes. The best pictures and videos pale compared to watching a majestic volcano erupt in real life with your own eyes.

Sleeping at altitude without acclimatisation is not easy; it was also difficult to sleep because the volcano kept erupting through the night, sometimes twice in one hour. So, some decided to skip the early morning hike while the rest of us filed out of our cosy rooms into the cold, dark early morning sky at 4am, finally leaving the camp half an hour later.

We had to make it to the top of the Acatenango rim in time for the sunrise. This involved a 2km climb, which took all of two hours. This was a challenging hike because we had to walk through volcanic sand in which we kept sinking in shin deep. We took four steps forward, and would slide back one. Add to that hundreds of people hiking the same trail. Some were also suffering from altitude sickness.

It took us just over an hour to get to the top and it was still dark. It is very cold and windy on top and despite wearing all four layers, a warm hat and gloves, many were cold.

About 15 minutes later as we sat shivering at about 4,000m, staring at the horizon, the sky slowly lit up revealing a thick cloud cover behind which a faint orange sphere was visible. It wasn’t the glorious sunrise we had been hoping for, but just as we were leaving, the clouds parted to finally let the sun work its magic. The show over, we descended to the camp through a different route.

At the camp, we had coffee and breakfast before starting the hike back to civilisation around 8.45am. Once everyone reached the trailhead, a minibus took us back to the headquarters where we were served a local snack and beer. An hour later, off we went to Antigua dreaming about the out-of-this world phenomenon that we had witnessed the previous evening. Only, it was real, very real.

How to Reach There

Nearest airport

Guatemala City. It is also the country’s largest airport. There are no direct flights from India but it is well connected from the US and Europe.

Visa

Indian passport holders need a visa for Guatemala. However, if you have a valid US visa, you are allowed to enter Guatemala.

Currency

1 Quetzales is about 10.60. Average price of coffee is Quetzales 20.

Shrenik Avlani is a writer and editor and the co-author of The Shivfit Way, a book on functional fitness.



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Ankle Pain, Thieving Birds, and Mild Falls: PCT Days 82 to 85

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Leaving the motel room where I’d rested the past 3 nights felt a little sad but I wanted to be moving again. I grabbed a sandwich for lunch and another for the road from a cute deli nearby too. This did mean I got to the trail a little late though, roughly 2:30. My stupid ankle was hurting again now and it made the walk fairly unpleasant. I got to Red’s Meadow where I’d heard they were serving ice cream but it was the evening now and it looked like they had closed down for the day. My mood already low and not wanting to pay for camping, I continued onward instead, forgetting that they also had a hot spring.

Clouds were pretty though.

I ended up finding a tiny tent site nearby Sotcher Lake and grumpily set up there. Lesson learned here; try not to spiral. My ankle hurting led me to skip past Red’s Meadow which meant I missed the hot spring there.

Day 83: Uneventful Days

The night was cold and I slept in then had a slow morning. My pack was heavy and I was moving slowly which, combined with getting out of camp late, limited my miles today; I barely did 12. I ate lunch at a campground and had to scare away an particularly industrious Stellar’s Jay who kept trying to get to my food. I respect the effort but this food is for me, little bird.

The thief’s mugshot.

The rest of the walk was largely uneventful. The entire day was one long but thankfully gradual uphill and the views of the valley and surrounding mountains only got better. I continued to churn through audiobooks as they were kinda the only thing keeping me going. I ended up making camp on the side of a mountain with a gorgeous valley below. It was surprisingly well-sheltered for being up on a ridge. I ate dinner staring out at the snowcapped peaks and the trees and lakes below.

The lakes on the other side of the canyon looked very inviting.

Day 84: Donohue Pass; Into Yosemite!

The night was again cold and I was glad my habit of stuffing my water filter into my sleeping bag had stayed so consistent this trail. For the curious, our water filters are vulnerable to freezing. If the water inside turns to ice it will expand and compromise the filter in a way that is almost undetectable. Usually this is only a risk at night thankfully so simply going to sleep with it usually means it will stay warm.

A rather shy marmot.

The morning was fairly unremarkable as I walked to the base of Donohue Pass, save for Thousand Island Lake which was absolutely gorgeous. I met a hiker called Trooper there before taking my lunch and nap. Afterwards I began the climb and while going up I began to hear distant thunder. It remained distant thankfully which was a very good thing as I was well above the tree line and with limited places to take cover. The numerous marmots showed no fear of course; must be nice having a hole you can retreat to. Thankfully there was almost no snow on the ground so although the ascent was steep it did go quickly.

Thousand Island Lake is crazy pretty, I gotta come back here at some point.

As I reached highest point and crossed into Yosemite National Park snow flurries started and the thunder suddenly got louder. I could see it was raining a few miles ahead in the valley below. Wanting to get below the tree line in case the storm turned my way, I hustled downhill, the fast speed also helping to keep me warm on a day that had turned quite cold. The snow intermittently fell all the way down though it was thankfully mild. There were many JMT hikers around again too.

The other side of the pass looked quite a bit stormier.

While descending on a gravely switchback, my shoes suddenly lost traction on the rocks underneath me and before I knew it I was falling. Falling backwards thankfully, not forwards or to the side down the mountain. I cried out in expectation of the painful impact of my butt on the earth but to my surprise it never came. Sitting there I realized my pack had cushioned the fall almost completely, turning a bone-jarring jolt into just a bit of a jerk to my hips. Thank you, backpack.

I camped that evening in Lyell Canyon, enjoying the gorgeous meadows surrounded by the sharp canyon walls. Remembering my fall, I inspected my shoes and discovered that the tread was seriously worn down. The shoes it seemed were near their end of life and I suddenly realized that they were probably contributing to my ankle irritation now that they could no longer provide sufficient support. Clearly new shoes were in my future.

Day 85: Burgers in Tuolumne Meadows

The day began with a nice, gradual downhill through beautiful meadows. I passed many JMT hikers but started to see more and more day hikers as I approached Tuolumne Meadows. Suddenly, the trail joined with a well-paved road and I abruptly re-entered civilization. Cars were passing, tourists were walking about goggling at the sights, and at least two groups of deer were practically posing for photos.

I reached Tuolumne Meadows Grill right at lunch time. The hunger was in full swing and I consumes two burgers, fries, a salad, and a soda while my electronics charged. It was reasonably priced too, a surprise for such a touristy area!

The mountain vibes are different in Yosemite.

I headed out around 3, quickly running into Myles and Swing Set who I’d met in Mammoth. We hiked together past multiple waterfalls and vast views. Yosemite felt noticeably different than the previous stretch of the Sierra; the mountains felt lower but rocker somehow. I camped that night at Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp, quite close to the base of Tuolumne Falls. I was still full from those lunch burgers too so slept early.

Trail Stats:

Catholes: 28

Stops to filter water: 117

Resupplies: 14

Hitches: 15

Zeros: 15

Crys on trail: 12

Blisters: 12

Gear repairs: 19

Miles Skipped: 212.3

Significant Water Crossings: 75

Falls: 1

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To learn more, please visit the About This Site page.





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Iran Now Joins The UNWTO Top 20 Global Tourism Destinations, Showcasing its Strong Recovery and Growing International Appeal Made Through Heritage, Culture, and Strategic Reforms

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Sunday, July 20, 2025

Sitting, now, among the top 20 tourist destinations, for the first quarter of 2025 according to the latest figures released by the United Nations World Tourism Organisation (UNWTO). This is a milestone that marks how far Iran has come in tourism aspects, a testament to a maturing policy environment, sector resilience and improved global perception as a safe, culturally rich and diverse travel destination.

Tremendous Increase in International Tourism Arrivals

One of the highest growths in the region, as UNWTO publishes first World Tourism Barometer of the year According to the UNWTO report, international tourist arrivals to Iran increased from 4.9 million in 2017 to 7.3 million in 2018, the best growth amongst the 40 most visited countries in theos world. This significant growth has been thanks to several strategic measures such as efficient government planning, huge growth in infrastructure and proactive attempts to give a positive turn to the country’s global image.

That increase in the number of visitors not only reflects the country’s natural potential for tourism but also reveals how it has successfully dealt with historical misinterpretations. The strong numbers reflect Iran’s dedication to welcoming international tourists alongside the country’s ever-expanding number of historical attractions, diverse landscapes, and a rich cultural heritage, while also serving as a testament to the world’s proclivity to see past political headlines and to not confuse individual people from a country with wider… political issues.

Strategic Initiatives Driving Tourism Development

Given this focus on digital engagement, Iranian tourism officials have undertaken a complete digital overhauling. Key features of the Trust’s programme is the programme is the next step for the Trust in using advanced audience insights to create personalized, engaging web experiences. Future developments are set to include an interactive travel guide aimed at enthralling prospective tourists with Iran’s long history, rich culture and beautiful scenery, using rich multimedia to tell the country’s story.

What’s more, tapping into social media has become a key prong of Iran’s tourism approach. By leveraging local storytelling and genuine stories, India aims to strike a chord with the world, i.e., ‘A chord is struck when the world connects with such stories, enabling a room for genuine interest and curiosity for potential travellers’.

Focused Efforts in Strategic Branding

Iran’s tourism ministry is also involving homegrown and foreign professionals to make riveting multimedia content. The purpose of this branding campaign is to elevate the visibility of Iran on international stages and introduce to the world the unparalleled attractions of this country. Local talent meets global branding know-how: Iran has set itself up to draw in a wide spectrum of global travellers, ensuring steady tourism growth.

Infrastructure and Access: The Foundations of Tourism Development

Improvement of the infrastructure has also contributed to Iran’s success in tourism. Excellent transportation systems, accommodations, and guest facilities have made tourism easy and comfortable. Such developments have been instrumental in helping Iran emerge as one of the hottest destinations in the world, providing the facilities of accessibility and comfort for the world travelers.

The powerful part of Iran experience is the wide range variety of cultural heritage you will find there. With its historic legacy (The ruins of Persepolis and Isfahan’s cultural and architectural splendor) and various and complex landscapes of deserts, mountains and coastlines, the country offers a wide range and variety of experiences for adventure-seekers. “Promotion of different aspects of Iranian tourism has been highly effective in promoting the country as a global tourist destination. However, by pushing these features using targeted marketing, this has helped to greatly increase Iran’s overall tourism profile globally.

Economic and Social Impacts

Rising tide of international tourists Having thousands of foreign visitors adds up significantly to the country’s economy and welfare. Tourism plays a role in driving local economies, supporting jobs and fostering cultural interaction. Such enhanced interaction would not merely lead to more economic welfare, but also pave the way for greater global knowledge and respect for Iran’s unique culture and past.

Future Prospects: Sustaining Momentum for Tourism in Iran

In the future, the further development and expansion of Iran’s tourism industry will depend largely on ongoing policy innovation, effective marketing, and investment in infrastructure. The country’s success in being an early adopter of digital platforms, strategic branding and authentic storytelling will become essential in sustaining the winning momentum.

The fact that Iran is considered one of the world’s most sought after tourism destinations is an important step in globalizing and diversifying the economy. The list of winners is our place at the top 30! We believe that if we take advantage of this win, we can make Iran Muslim Friendly Destination as a more popular place among tourists in the world for the next years.



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Day 74: Recovering From the Heat Dome

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  • Hightower Parking Lot (908.8) zero at Country View Lodging, Elkton, VA
  • 0 feet ascent, 0 feet descent 

We assessed the heat damage. It was not inconsequential. Three days hiking in 100 degree weather had taken its toll. I was covered in heat rash, some so bad I could not move without pain. The Historian was feeling very weak. We both felt hot to the touch, even after an overnight sleep in an air conditioned room. 

We decided it would be unwise to go back out to try to hike. Heat exhaustion is real and can be dangerous. We didn’t want to end our hike or put others at risk if we needed help. Hike Smart. The sign at the beginning of the Shennandoah told us that. We smartly requested another night. The heat was supposed to peak today. 

Our Kingdom for the Day

Our room was delightful. We had two double beds, one to sleep on and one became the continent for pack explosions. 

It was a luxury to be able to sort our resupply and rumage through our gear without bending over. 

We Even Have a Kitchen 

We did not expect a kitchenette but there was one. We availed ourselves of all its glories.

The Historian braved the heat to get ice from the office. After giving us “water with treats,” he put the ice bucket in the freezer. Clever man. We had ice all day. 

Water with Treats

I should explain what water with treats is. We dream of it on the trail and discuss it often. We had a dog who loved ice cubes out of the refrigerator door. She would sit below the fridge and stare longingly after ice dispenser, I suppose dreaming of an opposable thumb. We were careful never to let her see how it worked when we offered her “treats”. Over time, she trained us to give her ice cubes in her water, aka “water with treats.”

In the heat we guzzeled warm water from our bottles dreaming of it having treats. Today, we had water with treats.

Grocery Delivery

We had leftover pizza for breakfast. By second breakfast we wanted real food. After last night’s 1 1/2 hour delivery saga of right room number, wrong hotel, we were concerned. 

I also needed more medicated powder for my heat rash. Quite by accident, I discoved the grocery store had delivery. We could get our chores done without leaving the confines of our Kingdom for the Day.

I filled our shopping cart and took a lot out. Finally, I was satisfied. Not too much but plenty of what we wanted. 

 

The groceries arrived flawlessly. Our shopper had called to see about apples. They were only available in 3 pound bags. I asked her if she could use the extra apples and she said she could. We took three for us, plenty to carry and gave her the rest. It was a good compromise. 

Our Main Meal 

I rehydrate our home dehydrated pork with green tomatoes. We added this to a salad. It was so very satisfying. 

We feasted on wet food all day. The watermelon and other fruits were particularly satisfying. After days of poor calorie consumption due to the heat (except for our wayside affair!) it was good to be able to eat and not be nauseated. 

ET Call Home

When I was on the trail in 1975, we communicated by letter mostly. When I came to town, I would look for a phone booth and call family collect. We had to keep the calls short as they were very expensive. If I remember correctly, it was about a dollar a minute. Calls were interrupted by a human operator at 3 minutes to remind you how much money you were spending. 

Now days, the most common association with pay phones is the Tardis from Dr Who.

The motel had a real, working payphone! 

We did not call home on the pay phone, but we did take time to communicate with family. The support and love of family has not changed since 1975. 

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This website contains affiliate links, which means The Trek may receive a percentage of any product or service you purchase using the links in the articles or advertisements. The buyer pays the same price as they would otherwise, and your purchase helps to support The Trek’s ongoing goal to serve you quality backpacking advice and information. Thanks for your support!

To learn more, please visit the About This Site page.





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